Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

Hair Types and
Required Specific
Ingredients for
Conditioning Treatments

Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for
Conditioning Treatments
An emerging market trend is to differentiate hair care products by specific hair type, for example for fine hair, for colored hair or
for grey/white hair. With regard to this we differentiated the hair types and their special needs for conditioning improvement. The
main tasks were to define the performance criteria and identify the most suitable conditioning additive for a particular need.
1. Global Hair Types
For the selection of the right product, a distinction has first to be made between the various hair types. Hair can be differentiated
according to hair diameter into fine (thin), medium and thick hair. The mean fiber diameter of human scalp hair is 29 – 125 µm [1].
By treating the hair with different cosmetic or chemical treatments or by natural changes (hair becomes grey), the quality of the
hair is altered. Figure 1 details the various hair types, which can be differentiated for their specific hair care needs.
Hair Fiber Diameter
Fine/thin
(29 – 49 μm)
Medium (Caucasian)
(50 – 90 μm)
Hair Quality
based on chemical treatment
or natural change
• virgin (= not altered)
• permed
• dyed
• virgin
• grey/white
• permed
• dyed
Thick/coarse
(91 – 125 μm)
straight
(Asian)
curly
(South American/Mediterranian)
curly
(African)
• virgin, grey/white
• permed
• dyed
• virgin, grey/white
• straightened
• dyed
• virgin, grey/white
• straightened
• dyed
Figure 1: Global hair types
2

Thin/fine and medium hair
Thin/fine and medium hair types are both represented by the Caucasian type, which is the most common
hair type in Europe. The mean diameter of adult Caucasian hair diameter is 50 – 90 µm; infant hair has a
diameter of about 31 µm [1].
Thin or fine hair may occur mostly in the northern part of Europe. The disadvantages of this hair type are
generally that the hair is often too smooth (like children’s hair), has a poor volume and exhibits “fly-away”,
especially in dry climates. If the hair fibers are electrostatically charged by combing or other means, it can be
nearly impossible to style the hair. Caucasian hair generally is just slightly curled; therefore a common
cosmetic treatment is perming. Bleaching and dying are also common treatments on this hair type.
With increasing age, a natural change occurs in the hair. The hair turns grey or white and becomes more rigid
and slightly thicker. Therefore grey or white hair is not classed as fine hair, but rather as medium hair.
Thick/coarse hair
Hair types with a wider diameter are represented by the Asian, the South American/Mediterranian and the African hair
types. Within this group the main distinction is the form of a cross section of the hair fibers. While Asian hair exhibits a
circular cross section, the other hair types are more elliptic. An African hair fiber is most elliptical, appearing as a band.
This structural form renders African hair more susceptible to mechanical damage. The degree of elliptic cross section
correlates with the curliness.
The Asian hair type is typically straight; therefore a common cosmetic treatment is permanent waving. In Asia,
bleaching and dying are also widespread treatments. In the Asian markets, hair coloring is generally done to lighten the
hair color. Grey coverage, which had not been common, is gaining in popularity.
The South American and Mediterranean hair types are quite curly. Here, straight hair with a low volume is desired.
Therefore, permanent straightening is an often-used cosmetic treatment. Permanent straightening is from a chemical
point of view a very similar process to waving. Therefore hair care needs are very similar for both types of damage.
The African hair type is very curly. If hair is very curly, this property dominates other fiber properties and controls hair
effects [1], and needs therefore very specific cosmetic treatments. When straight hair with low volume is desired,
chemical straighteners, which can damage the hair, are employed. Further damage is inflicted if the hair is subsequently
bleached or dyed to achieve a specific color.
3

2. Conditioning Needs for Different Hair Types
Hair conditioning products have to provide a wide variety of different properties. The properties that are specific to a need are
claimed on the package, others are simply implied. The most important properties that need to be addressed in a hair conditioner are:
• detangling/wet comb
• wet feel
• dry comb improved (lower force)
• dry comb reduced (higher force, provides hold of the style)
• dry feel
• gloss/shine
• style retention (reduced curl droop)
• straightening effect (weighing down, poor volume)
• volume/body
• antistatic effect
• color protection
• hair strengthening properties
Looking into this list of conditioning effect one may think, that all of them are requested in any case. This is true, but
nevertheless, the most important parameters do differ between specific hair types. Figure 2 shows an overview about
the specific conditioning needs of the various hair types, which already have been described in chapter 1. The crosses
symbolise the “primary” importance of need, the circles symbolise the “secondary” need for property improvement.
Improvement of detangling/wet combability is important for all hair types, because this property is immediately
perceived by the consumer.
The improvement of the wet feel is mostly important for colored hair which feels very hard and rough when wet.
The parameter “dry combing” has to be differentiated: fine hair does not necessarily need reduced dry combing forces,
because this would lead to a reduced volume related to the lower friction between the single fibers. But thick hair and
curly hair types generally do need to be smooth in the dry stage, especially if they are chemically treated.
Dry feel is also one of the parameters, which are detected by the consumers immediately and is therefore important for
all hair types.
Gloss/shine is mostly important for straight hair, because curly hair has a structure related low shiny appearance.
Colored hair needs to have a gloss improvement.
An improved hold of the hairstyle is mostly interesting for fine and normal hair.
This plays also a role in minimizing the frizzyness of curly hair. For this type of hair, defined curls or even straight styled
hair is desired.
A straightening effect is desired for the thick hair type. The opposite, an increased volume/body is desired for fine
and normal hair with exception of the permed types (because the perming treatment already increase the volume).
An antistatic effect is mostly interesting for the chemically treated fine and normal hair because of the lowered
isoelectric point of the hair keratin.
An improved color protection is essential for colored hair, esp. for the very modern intensely red colored hair. The red
pigments are much smaller than others and therefore may be washed out more easily.
The table in Figure 2 summarizes the specific conditioning needs of the various hair types.
4

Hair type
Properties
Fine
Detangling/wet comb
Wet feel
Dry comb improved (lower force)
Dry comb reduced (higher force)
Dry feel
Gloss/shine
Straightening effect (weighing down)
Volume/body
Antistatic effect
Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop)
virgin O X X X O
permed O O O X
dyed O X O X X O X X X
Normal (Caucasian)
virgin O O X O
grey/white O O X O
permed O O X O O
dyed O X O O X O O O X
Thick/coarse
straight (Asian)
virgin, grey/white O O O O O X
permed O O X O O
dyed O X X O X X O
curly ( South American, North African)
virgin, grey/white X O O O X
straightened X O X O X X
dyed X X O O X O
curly (Ethnic)
virgin, grey/white O O O X X
straightened X O X X X X
dyed O X O X X O
Wash fastness/color protection
X = essential; O = important
Figure 2: Conditioning properties relevant for specific hair types
5

3. Test Methods for Determination of
Conditioning Property Improvement
In Figure 3 an overview of the test methods used to assess the conditioning properties of conditioning agents is given.
These methodologies can be differentiated into technical measurements and sensory assessments.
Technical measurements on hair swatches
• Combing force measurements
• Body/volume measurements
• Curl retention tests
• Antistatic test:
Fly away measurements
• Measurements of the wash fastness of
semipermanent/permanent dyes
Sensory methods
• Hair swatch tests
• Technical tests done by hairdresser (Salon tests)
• Consumer tests
Figure 3: Test methods
Technical measurements
One of the most common measurements is the determination of the combing forces. This method allows measuring
forces, which occur while combing in a high sensitive manner.
To do the body/volume measurements, the hair swatches are pulled through a ring. The force measured in this design
is mainly influenced by the compression of the hair tress into this ring [2].
The curl retention test (Figure 4) is normally used for styling products. We did this test for the differentiation of
conditioners. The change of humidity directly effects the water content of hair and plastifies the hair cortex. The
conditioners may make the surface more hydrophobic, reducing the absorption of atmospheric water. This
hydrophobizing effect keeps the hairstyle more stable and is also important for curly hair in order to avoid frizzyness.
To measure the antistatic properties of conditioners, we use the shadow contour method (Figure 5). Under defined
climatic conditions the hair swatch is fixed in front of a centric measuring scale. By using a light source, the shadow
image is created and the spreading before and after charging by defined combing is measured.
The measurement of the color protection or wash fastness can be done by using a spectrophotometer. Hair swatches
are dyed with a permanent or a semipermanent dye and after drying the CIE-L*a*b-colour values are measured. This is
done again after a defined number of treatments (shampooing and/or treatment with a rinse). The lower the difference
of the color values is, the better is the wash fastness property of the tested product.
6

Curl retention [%] = (L - Lt/L - L0) * 100
Curl length at t0 after drying at 50 % rel. humidity
Curl length after 2 hours at 70 % rel. humidity
Figure 4: Curl retention test
Figure 5: Fly away effect measuring method
Sensory methods
Technical methods are useful in screening products and formulations, but sensory methods should be used to confirm
the findings. When performed by trained personnel, sensory use data will closely parallel consumer preferences.
Hair swatch test
A sensory hair swatch test with standardised damaged hair is mostly used as a screening. By using a defined scoring
system, we rate the following properties by sensory assessment: detangling/wet comb, wet feel, dry comb, dry feel,
volume and gloss.
Salon tests (half head tests) done by hairdressers
One of the most important conditioning tests is the half head test. Here, the hair of a test subject is treated with two
different formulations, one on the left and one on the right of the head. The hairdresser is able to make a direct
comparison of properties like ease of distribution, rinsability, wet and dry comb, wet and dry feel, drying time, gloss,
volume/body, antistatic behaviour, bounce, build up, etc. Generally a defined scoring system is used.
7

4. Conditioning Agents
The product line Personal Care of Evonik offers a wide range of conditioning agents for rinses and intensive treatment products.
This range consists of organic based as well as of silicone based conditioning agents. Figures 6 and 7 give an overview of the most
important products that were differentiated by conducting several tests. One of the aims of this study was to find possible synergistic
effects between the organic and the silicone based products.
Quat-Type Trade name INCI name
Monoalkyl
H 3
C
R
+
N CI -
H 3
C CH 3
R=C 16
VARISOFT ® 300 Cetrimonium Chloride
R=C 22
VARISOFT ® BT 85 Behentrimonium Chloride
O +
H 3
C CH 2
CH 2
OCR
Esterquat N
CI -
R=C 17
H 3
C CH 2
CH 2
OCR
O
VARISOFT ® EQ 65
Pellets
Distearoylethyl Dimonium
Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol
Dialkyl
H 3
C
H 3
C
N
R
R
+
CI -
R=C 16
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG Dicetyldimonium Chloride
R=C 18
VARISOFT ® TA 100 Distearyldimonium Chloride
+
CH 3
O
Imidazolinium N N CH R=Palm VARISOFT ® 2
CH 2
NHCR CH 3
OSO -
3
W 575 PG Quaternium-87
R
O CH +
3
Amidoquat RCNHCH R=Palm VARISOFT ® 2
CH 2
CH 2
N CH 3 CI -
PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium
CH 3
Chloride
O
CH 3
Amidoamine RCNHCH R=C 17
TEGO ® 2
CH 2
CH 2
N
Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
CH 3
Figure 6: Tested cationics
8

CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
H 3
C Si O Si O Si O Si O Et
CH 3
CH 3
(CH 2
) 3
(CH 2
) 3
m
O NH 2
O
OH
O CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
CH 3
O
R N N
+
O Si O Si O N
+
N R
H CH CH CH 3
OH CH 3
H
3 3
n
CH 2
CH 2
O
CH 2
CH
O
x
CH 3
Y
Siloxane quat:
Quaternium-80
(ABIL ® Quat 3272, liquid, 50 % active
ABIL ® Quat 3474, viscous, 97 % active)
CH 3
n
Amino functional siloxane:
Methoxy PEG/PPG 7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone
(ABIL ® Soft AF 100, liquid, 100 % active)
Figure 7: Tested silicones
Organic based cationics
Two monoalkyl quats with different C-chain-length were tested: one of the most common conditioning agents
Cetrimonium Chloride (“CTAC”, VARISOFT ® 300), which functioned in all our tests as a standard, and the more
hydrophobic VARISOFT ® BT 85 (Behentrimonium Chloride).
In 2007 a new environmental friendly cationic was introduced. VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets is an ester quat based on
high purity stearic acid and is compounded with Cetearyl Alcohol. It is a readily biodegradable conditioning agent with a
high flash point.
Furthermore two dialkyl quats were tested:
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG (Dicetyldimonium Chloride) and VARISOFT ® TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride).
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG (Quaternium-87) is an imidazolinium based quaternary which offers good biodegradability,
TEGO ® Amid S 18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidoproyltrimonium Chloride)
were also evaluated.
Silicone based conditioning agents
The two most interesting silicones for conditioners from our range are ABIL ® Soft AF 100, an aminofunctional siloxane
(Methoxy PEG/PPG 7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone) and ABIL ® Quat 3474, a high molecular siloxane quat
(Quaternium-80). It is common to use silicone derivatives in combinations with organics. Potential synergies between
both types of conditioning chemistries were investigated.
ABIL ® Quat 3272 with the same INCI name has a lower molecular weight due to a shorter silicone chain. This makes it
better to dilute in clear aqueous systems like shampoos and can therefore be used in both, shampoos and conditioners.
The test results shown in this brochure have been generated with ABIL ® Quat 3474.
9

5. Preparation of the Hair Swatches and Test Formulations
For the sensory test on hair swatches these were damaged by bleaching (and perming) in a standardised way. Then standard
aliquots of the conditioning agents were applied via a simple hair rinse formulation, based on
• 0.5 % emulsifier (Ceteareth-20 resp. Ceteareth-25)
• 2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
• 1.0 or 2.0 % active of the tested conditioning agents (for combination 1.0 + 1.0 %)
• ad 100.0 % water
• pH ad 4.0 resp. 5.0
“Control” indicates this formulation with no conditioning agent.
Since the ester quat VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets was introduced to the market in 2007 after finalizing the comparison of the other
conditioning agents, professional half head tests have been conducted separately to compare the conditioning properties against
two standards: Cetrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Chloride. The tests have been done by an independent test institute
with 10 panelists by applying formulations based on:
• 0.5 % emulsifier (Ceteareth-25)
• 5.5 % Cetearyl Alcohol
• 2.0 % active quat
• ad 100.0 % water
• pH ad 4.5
10

6. Results
Figure 8 gives an overview about the best products for each property-improvement.
Detangling, wet combability
• VARISOFT ® BT 85
• VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets
• TEGO ® Amid S 18
• Synergistic combinations of:
• ABIL ® Quat 3474 with VARISOFT ® TA 100
• ABIL ® Quat 3474 with TEGO ® Amid S 18
Wet feel
• VARISOFT ® BT 85
• VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets
• VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
Dry combability
-improved
• VARISOFT ® TA 100
• VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
• Synergistic combination of ABIL ® Quat 3474 and
TEGO ® Amid S 18
Dry combability
-reduced (improvement of hold)
• VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
• VARISOFT ® PATC
• TEGO ® Amid S 18
Dry feel
• VARISOFT ® BT 85
• VARISOFT ® PATC
• VARISOFT ® EQ 65
Gloss/shine
• TEGO ® Amid S 18
• ABIL ® Quat 3474
Body/volume
• TEGO ® Amid S 18
• VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
• ABIL ® Soft AF 100
Straightening/weighing down effect
Elevated use levels of:
• VARISOFT ® BT 85
• VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
• Synergistic combinations with ABIL ® Quat
Anti-fly-away
• VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
• VARISOFT ® TA 100
• VARISOFT ® 300
• TEGO ® Amid S 18
Style retention, anti-frizz
• ABIL ® Soft AF 100
• VARISOFT ® TA 100
• VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
Wash fastness
• VARISOFT ® BT 85
• Synergistic combinations of:
• ABIL ® Quat with VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
• ABIL ® Soft AF 100 with VARISOFT ® BT 85
Figure 8: Summary of superior test results for each property improvement
11

Detangling and wet comb
According to our sensory test results on swatches, VARISOFT ® BT 85 gave the best improvement of detangling and wet comb
properties, followed by VARISOFT ® 432 PPG and TEGO ® Amid S 18. The graph in Figure 9 shows the score difference between
the different test formulations compared to the CTAC formulation.
Control
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
-42.3
27.6
Best wet comb scoring for
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG and
VARISOFT ® BT 85.
TEGO ® Amid S 18
VARISOFT ® BT 85
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
VARISOFT ® TA 100
19.2
38.4
6.9
8.4
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-20
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
1.0 % active Conditioning agent
ad 100.0 % water; pH=5
VARISOFT ® PATC
7.2
VARISOFT ® 300 (CTAC)
0
-60 -40 -20 0 20 40
Score Difference to CTAC [%]
statistically different to CTAC (Duncan Multiple Range Test)
Figure 9: Wet combability test results of sensory assessment with hair tresses
Additionally there is a synergistic effect when VARISOFT ® TA 100 is used in combination with ABIL ® Quat 3474. Another
synergism was found by doing the half-head-test. Figure 10 shows the results (tests done by an institute). This was a direct
comparison between
• CTAC and TEGO ® Amid S 18, where no significant difference was found,
• CTAC and ABIL ® Quat 3474, where a significant difference in favour for the silicone quat was found
(for this comparison also see Figure 12),
• CTAC and the combination, where a high significant difference in favour for the combination was found.
Wet feel
In the sensory evaluation, the best product with regard to the improvement of wet feel is VARISOFT ® 432 PPG, which was
significantly better than the standard CTAC. VARISOFT ® BT 85 also imparted a noticeable improvement in wet feel.
12

Comparison against CTAC (VARISOFT ® 300)
Score difference to CTAC [%]
50
40
30
20
10
0
-10
-20
TEGO ® Amid S 18 and ABIL ® Quat 3474
synergistically improve detangling and
wet comb.
Statistics: Wilcoxon test
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-25
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
2.0 % active Conditioning agent
ad 100.0 % water; pH=4
TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Quat 3474 1 % S18/1 % 3474
combination
no statistical difference
significant difference
high significant difference
Figure 10: Wet combability test results of half-head tests done by hairdresser
Dry comb
Dry combing values differ less than wet combing values.
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG was judged to offer the most significant improvement in dry comb. VARISOFT ® TA 100 also yielded positive
results. In a half-head-test against CTAC, the combination of TEGO ® Amid S 18 plus ABIL ® Quat 3474 was found to provide
synergistic benefits.
An increased dry combing force, which is important for volume improvement, was found in the sensory test for VARISOFT ® W
575 PPG as well as for VARISOFT ® PATC. As determined by technical combing force measurements, TEGO ® Amid S 18 increased
the combing forces in comparison to an untreated control (Figure 11), (tests done by an institute).
Relative change of
combing force [%]
20
10
0
-10
-20
-30
-40
TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Quat 3474 VARISOFT ® 300 Control
(CTAC)
ABIL ® Quat 3474 and VARISOFT ® 300
reduce the dry combing force.
The low reduction of the dry combing
force of TEGO ® Amid S 18 results in a longer
last of the hairstyle (important for fine hair).
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-25
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
2.0 % active Conditioning agent
ad 100.0 % water; pH=4
arithmetic mean value
standard error
confidence range 95 %
Figure 11: Dry combing force measurement results
13

Dry feel
In the sensory hair swatch test, we found best dry feel scoring for VARISOFT ® BT 85 and VARISOFT ® PATC.
Gloss/shine
For the gloss improvement, again determined by the sensory hair swatch test we found best results for
TEGO ® Amid S 18 and ABIL ® Quat 3474. The results for the ABIL ® Quat 3474 were confirmed in a halfhead
salon test where this silicone quaternary was judged to be directionally better than CTAC. Figure 12
shows the total result of that half-head test, including further parameters like combability and feel (salon test
conducted at an independent test institute).
antistatic effect
volume
build-up
distribution capability
5
4
3
2
1
0
rinseability
significant
wet combability
significant
significant
wet feel
ABIL ® Quat 3474 was scored
tendenciously better than
CTAC.
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-25
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
2.0 % active Conditioning agent
ad 100.0 % water; pH=4
tendencious
gloss
drying time
elasticity
dry combability
dry feel
ABIL ® Quat 3474
CTAC
5 = excellent
1 = very deficient
Figure 12: Results of the half-head-test ABIL ® Quat 3474 against CTAC as Standard
14

Body/Volume
Conditioners reduce the volume of the hair by three mechanisms: reducing the fiber to fiber friction to smooth the hair, softening
the fibers and by weighing down the hair mass.
According to our sensory test, VARISOFT ® W 575 PG was the conditioning additive least likely to impart these effects making it
most suited to conditioners developed for the fine hair segment. Because of the good result for the aminofunctional siloxane, we
combined this product with some conditioning additives that are known to reduce the body of hair. Figure 13 shows the results. In
all cases the negative impact of the organic quats on body/volume could be minimized via the addition of ABIL ® Soft AF 100. The
most significant synergy was exhibited by a blend of the ABIL ® Soft AF 100 with the VARISOFT ® BT 85.
VARISOFT ® 300
VARISOFT ® BT 85
VARISOFT ® TA 100
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
VARISOFT ® 300 + ABIL ® Soft AF 100
VARISOFT ® BT 85 + ABIL ® Soft AF 100
ABIL ® Soft AF 100
provides better volume score than
the quats (as single ingredients).
Combinations (1:1) of organic quats
with ABIL ® Soft AF 100 compensate
the negative impact of organic quats
on body/volume.
Test formula: rinse
0.5% Ceteareth-25
2.0% Cetyl Alcohol
2.0% active Conditioning agent
ad 100,0% water; pH=4
VARISOFT ® TA 100 + ABIL ® Soft AF 100
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG + ABIL ® Soft AF 100
ABIL ® Soft AF 100
0 1 2 3 4 5
Score of sensory assessment (5 = best)
Figure 13: Body/Volume results for combinations with ABIL Soft ® AF 100
15

Figure 14 describes the results of the technical ring method (tests done by an institute). These results correlate well to those of the
dry combing forces (Figure 11): the lowest volume reduction after conditioning treatment was measured for TEGO ® Amid S 18.
Relative change of volume force [%]
0
-5
-10
-15
-20
-25
-30
-35
-40
-45
-50
The low reduction of volume force
by the TEGO ® Amid S 18 makes it
suitable for preparations especially
for fine, thin hair.
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-25
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
2.0 % active Conditioning agent
ad 100.0 % water; pH=4
TEGO ® Amid S 18 1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Quat 3474 CTAC Control
1 % ABIL ® Quat 3474
arithmetic mean value
standard error
confidence range 95 %
Figure 14: Results of body-/volume-measurements
Antistatic properties
All conditioning agents reduced static charges caused by combing to nearly the same extent. With a lower charge density,
ABIL ® Quat 3474 was least efficacious in dissipating the static charge.
Reduction of curl droop (improved hold of hairstyle)
In comparison to the control formulation (placebo), all conditioning agents increased the curl droop. The lowest reduction was
measured for the two dialkylquats VARISOFT ® TA 100 and VARISOFT ® 432 PPG. The reason for that could be better
hydrophobizing properties of these products. In between the monoalkylquats and the dialkylquats lays the curl retention property
of ABIL ® Soft AF 100. This is why we combined this product and found some synergistic effects. An example is the combination of
ABIL ® Soft AF 100 with TEGO ® Amid S 18 (Figure 15). The hydrophobizing effect protects the hair fiber against humidity, which
makes the hair style being more stable. This is a very important property for fine hair, but also for frizzy hair. Frizzy hair normally
is styled to have either defined curls or to smoothen the hair. With a change of humidity, the hair fiber is plasticized and gets into its
original form (frizzy) again.
16

Curl retention [%] ( = L – L t / L – L o )* 100
10 0
95
90
85
80
75
70
65
60
55
50
45
40
ABIL ® Soft AF 100 plus TEGO ® Amid S 18
reduce the curl droop synergistically.
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-25
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
2.0 % active Conditioning agentt
ad 100.0 % water; pH=4
0 0.5 1 2 3 5
time [h]
Control
ABIL ® Soft AF 100
TEGO ® Amid S 18
1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 + 1 % ABIL ® Soft AF 100
Figure 15: Curl retention results
17

Wash fastness/color protection
The best wash fastness/color protection benefits were found for VARISOFT ® BT 85 alone and the combination of VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
in combination with either ABIL ® Soft AF 100 or ABIL ® Quat 3474. Figure 16 shows the results (tests done by an outside testing
laboratory). The color difference between the control and the test formulations is given as a relative value.
Placebo (water)
VARISOFT ® BT 85/ABIL ® Soft AF 100
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG/ABIL ® Soft AF 100
VARISOFT ® BT 85/ABIL ® Quat 3474
-21
-5.9
-2.9
( E* 4.6.2)
( E* 4.77)
( E* 3.88)
( E* 4.93)
0.4
VARISOFT ® BT 85 and
combinations of
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
with the silicone
conditioners improve wash
fastness of semipermanent
dyes most.
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG/ABIL ® Quat 3474
ABIL ® Soft AF 100
ABIL ® Quat 3474
VARISOFT ® BT 85
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
-15.5
-13.2
( E* 4.26)
( E* 5.18)
( E* 4.93)
( E* 4.15)
( E* 4.92)
0.4
0.2
5.5
Test formula: rinse
0.5 % Ceteareth-25
2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol
2.0 % Active organic Conditioner/
1.0 % Silicone Conditioner/
3.0 % combination
ad 100.0 % water; pH=4
Control
( E* 4.91)
0
-25 -2 -15 -10 -5 0 5 10
< good bad >
Comparison of color difference E* in against control [%]
Figure 16: Wash fastness results.
Measurement of the color value after 10 times shampooing with SLES
(European hair, dyed with a semipermanent dye “cherry red“)
18

Half head test results
The new environment friendly ester quat VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets was compared against two standards by professional hairdressers
utilizing half-head test protocol: Cetrimonium Chloride (VARISOFT ® 300) and the positive standard Behentrimonium Chloride
(VARISOFT ® BT 85). Figure 17 shows that VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets clearly outperforms Cetrimonium Chloride in wet and dry
conditioning parameters. Figure 18 shows that VARISOFT ® EQ 65 provides similar conditioning performance as VARISOFT ® BT 85.
With 10 panelists*
rinseability
wet comb
wet feel
dry comb
dry feel
bounce
gloss
body / volume
antistatic
ease to style
weighing down directly
weighing down later
VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets
outperforms Cetrimonium
Chloride.
Formula: rinse
0.5% Ceteareth-25
5.5% Cetearyl Alcohol
2.0% active quat
pH = 4.5
-0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8
CTAC no VARISOFT ® EQ 65
better difference better
* conducted externally by an independent test institute
Figure 17: Half-head test results – CTAC vs. VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets
19

With 10 panelists*
rinseability
wet comb
wet feel
dry comb
dry feel
bounce
gloss
body/volume
antistatic
ease to style
weighing down directly
weighing down later
VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets
provides similar excellent
conditioning properties like
VARISOFT ® BT 85.
Formula: rinse
0.5% Ceteareth-25
5.5% Cetearyl Alcohol
2.0% active quat
pH = 4.5
-0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8
CTAC no VARISOFT ® EQ 65
better difference better
* conducted externally by an independent test institute
Figure 18: Half-head test results – BTAC vs. VARISOFT ® EQ 65
20

Summary: Specific properties of conditioning agents for rinses
Figure 19 gives an overview of the test results, the tested products and their specific properties and advantages. Overall, the most
efficient conditioners to fulfil the needs of strongly damaged hair are VARISOFT ® BT 85 and VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets. Other
conditioning ingredients are recommended for special hair types and specific properties, such as VARISOFT ® W 575 PG for
increased volume (list a specific property) for fine hair.
Product
Properties
Dry comb
Detangling/wet comb
Wet feel
Dry feel
Gloss/shine
Minimizes curl droop
Body/volume
Anti - fly - away
Hair type
Wash fastness
Additional benefit
Use level [%]
VARISOFT ® 300
(Cetrimonium Chloride) O O O O X O All types Emulsifier 1.0 – 3.0
All types,
VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets also coarse, Environmental
(Distearoylethyl Dimonium brittle, friendly,
Chloride; Cetearyl Alcohol) X X O X damaged emulsifier 0.3 – 3.0
Coarse,
VARISOFT ® BT 85
brittle,
(Behentrimonium Chloride) X X O X O X damaged Emulsifier 0.2 – 2.0
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
(Dicetyldimonium Chloride) X X X O normal Emulsifier 1.0 – 3.0
Excellent
emulsifier,
VARISOFT ® TA 100
synergism:
(Distearyldimonium Chloride) O X O X normal ABIL ® Quat 3474 1.0 – 3.0
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
(Quaternium-87) O O X X X fine No build up 1.5 – 2.5
VARISOFT ® PATC
(Palmitamidopropyltrimonium
Thickening in
Chloride) O O X O All types surf. formulas 1.0 – 4.0
TEGO ® Amid S 18 All types Emulsifier,
(Stearamidopropyl esp. fine synergism:
Dimethylamine) X O O O X O hair ABIL ® Quat 3474 1.0 – 3.0
Self emulsifying,
improves
ABIL ® Soft AF 100
volume and curl
(Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 All types, stability of
Aminopropyl Dimethicone X X O fine hair org. quats 0.3 – 4.0
Synergistic with 0.2 – 3.0
ABIL ® Quat 3474 TEGO ® Amid S 18
(Quaternium-80) O O X X All types & ABIL ® Quat 3474
X = superior test results; O = positive test results
Figure 19: Specific properties of conditioning agents for rinses
21

7. Comprehensive Matrix
In the table (Figure 20) the performance results for the conditioning agents were correlated with the different hair types having
differing performance requirements. The suggestions are based on the test results for the individual properties. From the results
with conditioning agents in hair rinse application, those products are selected providing the best fit to the treatment effect needed.
By matching a specific need or hair type with performance results, a recommendation of a conditioning ingredient or a selection of
products becomes apparent.
Ingredients with best performance (positive results in one or more tests) are printed in bold letters. This matrix is dedicated to help
in selecting the right conditioning agent for the desired performance of a formulation. It should be used as a working tool, helping
to avoid unnecessary trials in formulation work and performance testing.
The table refers to the application Conditioning Rinse/Intensive Treatment.
Hair type
Fine
Properties
Detangling/wet comb
Wet feel
Dry comb improved (lower force)
Dry comb reduced (higher force)
Dry feel
Gloss/shine
Hold of hairstyle (reduced curl droop)
Antistatic effect
Straightening effect (weighing
down, poor volume)
Body/volume
virgin O X X X O
permed O O O X
dyed O X O X X O X X X
Normal (Caucasian)
virgin O O X O
grey/white O O X O
permed O O X O O
dyed O X O O X O O O X
Thick/coarse
straight (Asian)
virgin, grey/white O O O O O X
permed O O X O O
dyed O X X O X X O
curly (South American,
North African)
virgin, grey/white X O O O X
straightened X O X O X X
dyed X X O O X O
curly (Ethnic)
virgin, grey/white O O O X X
straightened X O X X X X
dyed O X O X X O
Wash fastness/color protection
X = essential; O = important
Figure 20: Performance results correlated with specific performance requirements
22

Literature
[1] Robbins, C.R.: Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair, Springer Verlag (1994)
[2] Robbins, C.R.; Crawford, R.J. (1984): Method to evaluate hair body. J. Soc. Cosm. Chemistry 35, 369–377
Authors
Uta Kortemeier, Holger I. Leidreiter, Sascha Herrwerth
Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Essen, Germany
Ingredients for rinses
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; ABIL ® SOFT AF 100; VARISOFT ® PATC
TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; VARISOFT ® 300
VARISOFT ® W 575 PG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC; ABIL ® SOFT AF 100
ABIL ® SOFT AF 100; VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC
VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; TEGO ® Amid S 18 and ABIL ® Quat 3474
VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; TEGO ® Amid S 18; ABIL ® Quat 3474; VARISOFT ® W 575 PG
(higher dosage for straightening effect)
ABIL ® Quat 3474; Quats at high use level
VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® TA 100
ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG
VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 100
VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18 or/and VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® BT 85
VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® PATC; ABIL ® Quat 3474
ABIL ® Quat 3474 and TEGO ® Amid S 18; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; VARISOFT ® TA 100; VARISOFT ® BT 85
VARISOFT ® BT 85; VARISOFT ® 432 PPG; VARISOFT ® PATC ; ABIL ® Quat 3474
23

Your Contact
Headoffice
E v o n i k G o l d s c h m i d t G m b H
Goldschmidtstrasse 100
45127 Essen
Germany
P.O. Box 45116 Essen
phone + 49 201 173- 2854
fax +49 201 173- 1828
personal-care@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personal-care
For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cific area of interest, please contact the
Evonik Goldschmidt Head Office in Essen or contact your local representative.
This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH‘s present knowledge
and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice
including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property
rights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS AND
WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR
A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE
RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF
PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to
technological progress or further developments. It is the customer’s responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect
and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be verified by testing and
carried out only by qualified experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any
such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement
of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)
Europe
France
Paris
phone +33 6 864 917 91
Italy
Pandino (Cr)
phone +39 037 3975 221
fax +39 037 3975 260
Great Britain
Milton Keynes
phone +44 1908 582 250
fax +44 1908 582 254
Scandinavia
Rungsted, Denmark
phone +45 449 918 00
fax +45 449 901 80
Spain
Granollers
phone +34 938 642 178
fax +34 938 642 161
The
Americas
Brasil
São Paulo
phone +55 11 314 641 00
fax +55 11 314 641 31
Canada
Oakville
phone + 1 905 336 34 23
fax + 1 905 633 75 53
Mexico
Mexico City
phone +52 555 483 10 00
fax + 52 555 673 66 49
USA
Hopewell
phone +1 804 541 86 58
fax +1 804 541 86 89
Asia
China
Shanghai
phone +86 21 611 910 00
fax +86 21 611 912 64
Indonesia
Bekasi Timur
phone +62 21 882 83 22
fax +62 21 882 83 21
Japan
Tokyo
phone +81 3 532 387 90
fax +81 3 532 387 89
Korea
Seoul
phone +82 2 207 123 00
fax +82 2 785 52 47
Evonik Industries AG
Rellinghauser Strasse 1–11
45128 Essen
Germany
phone + 49 201 177- 01
fax +49 201 177-3475
www.evonik.com
03/2008 Inv.-Nr.: 28-08