Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

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4. Conditioning Agents The product line Personal Care of Evonik offers a wide range of conditioning agents for rinses and intensive treatment products. This range consists of organic based as well as of silicone based conditioning agents. Figures 6 and 7 give an overview of the most important products that were differentiated by conducting several tests. One of the aims of this study was to find possible synergistic effects between the organic and the silicone based products. Quat-Type Trade name INCI name Monoalkyl H 3 C R + N CI - H 3 C CH 3 R=C 16 VARISOFT ® 300 Cetrimonium Chloride R=C 22 VARISOFT ® BT 85 Behentrimonium Chloride O + H 3 C CH 2 CH 2 OCR Esterquat N CI - R=C 17 H 3 C CH 2 CH 2 OCR O VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol Dialkyl H 3 C H 3 C N R R + CI - R=C 16 VARISOFT ® 432 PPG Dicetyldimonium Chloride R=C 18 VARISOFT ® TA 100 Distearyldimonium Chloride + CH 3 O Imidazolinium N N CH R=Palm VARISOFT ® 2 CH 2 NHCR CH 3 OSO - 3 W 575 PG Quaternium-87 R O CH + 3 Amidoquat RCNHCH R=Palm VARISOFT ® 2 CH 2 CH 2 N CH 3 CI - PATC Palmitamidopropyltrimonium CH 3 Chloride O CH 3 Amidoamine RCNHCH R=C 17 TEGO ® 2 CH 2 CH 2 N Amid S 18 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine CH 3 Figure 6: Tested cationics 8
CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 3 C Si O Si O Si O Si O Et CH 3 CH 3 (CH 2 ) 3 (CH 2 ) 3 m O NH 2 O OH O CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 O R N N + O Si O Si O N + N R H CH CH CH 3 OH CH 3 H 3 3 n CH 2 CH 2 O CH 2 CH O x CH 3 Y Siloxane quat: Quaternium-80 (ABIL ® Quat 3272, liquid, 50 % active ABIL ® Quat 3474, viscous, 97 % active) CH 3 n Amino functional siloxane: Methoxy PEG/PPG 7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone (ABIL ® Soft AF 100, liquid, 100 % active) Figure 7: Tested silicones Organic based cationics Two monoalkyl quats with different C-chain-length were tested: one of the most common conditioning agents Cetrimonium Chloride (“CTAC”, VARISOFT ® 300), which functioned in all our tests as a standard, and the more hydrophobic VARISOFT ® BT 85 (Behentrimonium Chloride). In 2007 a new environmental friendly cationic was introduced. VARISOFT ® EQ 65 Pellets is an ester quat based on high purity stearic acid and is compounded with Cetearyl Alcohol. It is a readily biodegradable conditioning agent with a high flash point. Furthermore two dialkyl quats were tested: VARISOFT ® 432 PPG (Dicetyldimonium Chloride) and VARISOFT ® TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride). VARISOFT ® W 575 PG (Quaternium-87) is an imidazolinium based quaternary which offers good biodegradability, TEGO ® Amid S 18 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidoproyltrimonium Chloride) were also evaluated. Silicone based conditioning agents The two most interesting silicones for conditioners from our range are ABIL ® Soft AF 100, an aminofunctional siloxane (Methoxy PEG/PPG 7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone) and ABIL ® Quat 3474, a high molecular siloxane quat (Quaternium-80). It is common to use silicone derivatives in combinations with organics. Potential synergies between both types of conditioning chemistries were investigated. ABIL ® Quat 3272 with the same INCI name has a lower molecular weight due to a shorter silicone chain. This makes it better to dilute in clear aqueous systems like shampoos and can therefore be used in both, shampoos and conditioners. The test results shown in this brochure have been generated with ABIL ® Quat 3474. 9
Page 1 and 2: Hair Types and Required Specific In
Page 3 and 4: Thin/fine and medium hair Thin/fine
Page 5 and 6: Hair type Properties Fine Detanglin
Page 7: Curl retention [%] = (L - Lt/L - L0
Page 11 and 12: 6. Results Figure 8 gives an overvi
Page 13 and 14: Comparison against CTAC (VARISOFT
Page 15 and 16: Body/Volume Conditioners reduce the
Page 17 and 18: Curl retention [%] ( = L - L t / L
Page 19 and 20: Half head test results The new envi
Page 21 and 22: Summary: Specific properties of con
Page 23 and 24: Literature [1] Robbins, C.R.: Chemi

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