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Hair Types and Required Specific Ingredients for Conditioning ...

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Figure 14 describes the results of the technical ring method (tests done by an institute). These results correlate well to those of the<br />

dry combing <strong>for</strong>ces (Figure 11): the lowest volume reduction after conditioning treatment was measured <strong>for</strong> TEGO ® Amid S 18.<br />

Relative change of volume <strong>for</strong>ce [%]<br />

0<br />

-5<br />

-10<br />

-15<br />

-20<br />

-25<br />

-30<br />

-35<br />

-40<br />

-45<br />

-50<br />

The low reduction of volume <strong>for</strong>ce<br />

by the TEGO ® Amid S 18 makes it<br />

suitable <strong>for</strong> preparations especially<br />

<strong>for</strong> fine, thin hair.<br />

Test <strong>for</strong>mula: rinse<br />

0.5 % Ceteareth-25<br />

2.0 % Cetyl Alcohol<br />

2.0 % active <strong>Conditioning</strong> agent<br />

ad 100.0 % water; pH=4<br />

TEGO ® Amid S 18 1 % TEGO ® Amid S 18 ABIL ® Quat 3474 CTAC Control<br />

1 % ABIL ® Quat 3474<br />

arithmetic mean value<br />

st<strong>and</strong>ard error<br />

confidence range 95 %<br />

Figure 14: Results of body-/volume-measurements<br />

Antistatic properties<br />

All conditioning agents reduced static charges caused by combing to nearly the same extent. With a lower charge density,<br />

ABIL ® Quat 3474 was least efficacious in dissipating the static charge.<br />

Reduction of curl droop (improved hold of hairstyle)<br />

In comparison to the control <strong>for</strong>mulation (placebo), all conditioning agents increased the curl droop. The lowest reduction was<br />

measured <strong>for</strong> the two dialkylquats VARISOFT ® TA 100 <strong>and</strong> VARISOFT ® 432 PPG. The reason <strong>for</strong> that could be better<br />

hydrophobizing properties of these products. In between the monoalkylquats <strong>and</strong> the dialkylquats lays the curl retention property<br />

of ABIL ® Soft AF 100. This is why we combined this product <strong>and</strong> found some synergistic effects. An example is the combination of<br />

ABIL ® Soft AF 100 with TEGO ® Amid S 18 (Figure 15). The hydrophobizing effect protects the hair fiber against humidity, which<br />

makes the hair style being more stable. This is a very important property <strong>for</strong> fine hair, but also <strong>for</strong> frizzy hair. Frizzy hair normally<br />

is styled to have either defined curls or to smoothen the hair. With a change of humidity, the hair fiber is plasticized <strong>and</strong> gets into its<br />

original <strong>for</strong>m (frizzy) again.<br />

16

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