A basic guide to cosmetic formulation - Creative Developments

A Basic Guide to 

Cosmetic & 

Toiletry Development 

John Woodruff 

john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk 1


Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries 

 

 

 

 

What is a cosmetic? 

Understanding product briefs 

From concept to product formulation 

Sources of information 

EU cosmetic regulations 

The global marketplace 

Cost effective formulation 

Product stability & preservation 

Example formulation techniques 














What is a cosmetic product? 

European Regulations specify 6 functions for 

cosmetic products, namely:- 

 

 

 

 

 

 

to perfume 

to clean 

to change the appearance 

to protect 

to keep in good condition 

to correct body odours 


To perfume 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfume 

Toilet waters 

Mists & sprays 

Aromatherapy preparations 

Bath additives 

Shower gels 

Deodorants 

Body lotions 

These products 

should 

not penetrate the skin 

but perfume 

compounds 

including essential 

oils may do so. 


To clean 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soap 

Syndet bars 

Bath additives 

Shower gels 

Cleansing emulsions 

Scrubs 

Cleansing masks 

Shampoos 

These products should 

not penetrate the skin 

but they do affect the 

skin surface (Stratum 

corneum – SC), they 

can remove skin lipids, 

affect skin barrier 

properties, increase 

cell turn- over, change 

pH & cause loss of 

moisture 


To change the appearance 

 

 

 

 

 

Decorative cosmetics 

Foundation creams 

Blushers 

Lipsticks & eye shadows 

Fake tans 

Cover fine lines & wrinkles 

Plump out fine lines & wrinkles* 

Freeze facial muscles* 

DHA tanning* 

Skin lightening* 


not penetrate the skin. 

*These products need 

to penetrate the S.C. 


To protect 

 

 

 

Sun protection 

Barrier creams 

Antiseptic washes 



 

 

Anti-oxidants* 

Protect immune system* 

*These products need 

to penetrate the S.C. 


To keep in good condition 

 

 

 

 

Moisturise 

Occlusive film 

Humectants 

NMF* 

Anti-oxidants* 

Support immune system* 

Plump out fine lines & wrinkles* 

NMF = Urea, cholesterol, 

sodium lactate, lactic acid, 

amino acids, phospholipids, 

sodium PCa, water 

*Generally these 

products need to 

penetrate the S.C. 


To correct body odours 

 

 

 

Deodorants 

Antiperspirants 

Cleansing* 

e.g.washing 



*These products may 

affect the S.C. 


Field of application 

The field of application of cosmetics is to 

one or more of the following: 

the epidermis 

the hair system 

the nails 

the lips 

the external genital organs 

the teeth 

the mucous membranes of the oral cavity 




Field of 

Application – 

anywhere 

visible, with 

or without 

swimming costumes 
















The Brief 

A clear concise document produced by the 

marketing department after extensive 

market research with intended claims 

clearly defined. 

Or 

Woolly description full of pitfalls like 

“Natural” & “Organic” and claims changing 

as new ideas occur to originator. 




The Packaging 

Already identified and selected as the 

ideal pack form to contain and deliver the 

product. 

Or 

To be decided! 

 

Usually after 2 months stability testing on a 

product with a quite unsuitable rheology for the 

final pack choice. 




 

 

The Bench Mark 

An exciting & innovative product with clear 

functional benefits & with a similar selling price to 

the product required. 

Or 

Two or three totally different products, all 3x the 

selling price of the product required. 

Does the bench mark meet the product 

requirements? 

Claims, market niche, legislation? 




 

 

The Time Table 

A program agreed between all concerned, 

allowing sufficient time for formulation, testing and 

proceeding to manufacture via pilot scale batches. 

Or 

Marketing has a slot promised by a major store 5 

months ahead. That is plenty of time surely! 

 

Remember formulations can fail at any 

stage. 


Tip 

Read the brief and also read between the 

lines: 

If “natural” claims then reduce non-naturals 

to a minimum & no animal ingredients 

If “organic” avoid all proscribed ingredients 

 

E.g. Ethoxylated materials 

Most preservatives / colours / minerals / 

petroleum-based materials etc.etc. 


Tip 

 

 

Read the brief and also read between the lines: 

If one customer, obey special requirements 

If for sensitive areas, mucous membranes etc. 

avoid unsuitable colours & preservatives 

Mucous membranes 

in the vicinity of the eyes 

on the lips 

in the oral cavity 

on the external genital organs 


Tip 

 

Read the brief and also read between the lines: 

Identify target consumer 

 

 

 

Young – greasy, acne 

Cleanse, tone & leave alone 

Old – mature, dry, sensitive, lacking radiance & 

resilience 

Cleanse, desquamate, moisturise, cover up 

Middle – combination skin 

Protect & moisturise 






 


 

 

 

 

 








Sources of Information 

Look at the bench mark & competitors products? 

Do they deliver their claims? 

If so how? 

cosmeticsdesign-europe.com 

Chemidex.com 

Cosmeticsbusiness.com 

Suppliers representatives & web sites 

Trade press & relevant articles 

Conference presentations 

Patent literature 

Text books 














The Regulations 

Ignore at your peril 

EU 76/768/EEC – The 7 th Amendment 

And all subsequent amendments 

The Cosmetic Products (Safety) 

Regulations 2004 SI 2185 

Customer-specific requirements 

 

e.g. Boots GR-10 


The Regulations 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EU 76/768/EEC – The 7 th Amendment 

It lists those materials that cosmetics must not 

contain 

Those materials subject to restrictions in field of 

application and/or maximum allowed % 

A positive list of colours 

A positive list of antiperspirant materials 

A positive list of preservatives 

A positive list of UV absorbers 


Mucous membranes 

Be aware 

More prone to irritant reactions 

Restrictions on colours 

Restrictions on preservatives 

More stringent microbial rules 

Only ingestible products i.e.those with 

A.D.I., should be applied to the lips 

Tip - match pH to area of application e.g. 

Eyes are 7+/- 0.2 / Skin is ~5.3 














Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries for the 

Global Marketplace 

EU / USA / Japan / Brazil etc. 

Each area has own regulations 

 

 

Particularly affecting 

Colours 

Preservatives 

Antiperspirants 

Sunscreens 

Also 

Labelling 

Names of ingredients 














Cost effective formulation of 

Cosmetics & Toiletries 

Start with current material inventory 

Don’t add cost without adding value 

 

Colin Hession 

Keep it simple – but effective 

Look at methods of production 

Process plant availability 

Heating costs / cooling costs / mixing costs 

/ processing time costs 

Fill using current machinery 


Tip 

 

Think commercially 

Use materials that are already in current stock 

wherever possible 

Use laboratory mixing equipment which 

represents that available in the factory 

Think of the likely batch sizes 

 

Can they be made with existing equipment? 

If there is a problem can the formula be revised? 

Can the product be filled with existing equipment? 


Tips 

Use laboratory mixing equipment which 

represents that available in the factory 


Tips 

Use laboratory 

mixing equipment 

which represents 

that available 

in the factory 












Example formulation Techniques 


Stability and preservation of 


Preservative choice affected by 

Regulations 

Type of product 

 

Leave-on or Wash-off? 

pH of product 

pH < 6 / pH > 7 

Other ingredients 

 

 

Parabens inactivated by ethoxylates 

Phenoxyethanol thins many emulsions 


Stability and preservation of 


 

Stability checking is essential 

Minimal requirements are stability testing at 4C / 

RT / 40C for 3 months plus light where applicable 

 

 

 

 

 

 

45C used by some companies 

Freeze / thaw cycles 

Test in final packaging 

A product should remain stable for minimal 36 months at 

RT 

Continuing preservative efficacy over testing period is 

essential 

PAO = Period After Opening – depends on product type 

and packaging 


Tip 

Decide which preservatives can or cannot be 

used 

 

 

Talk to marketing. Talk to microbiologist 

 

The choice could affect your product stability 

Make selection of perfume a priority 

 

Talk to marketing and talk to the supplier 

 

The choice could affect your product stability 

If possible incorporate these two items in 

development samples from the outset 




Formulation Techniques 




Cosmetic functions 

to perfume 

to clean 

to change the appearance 

to protect 

to keep in good condition 

to correct body odours 




Functional products are those for which a 

claim can be made, and which meet that 

claim. 

They consist of the vehicle and the active 

ingredient(s). 

The two parts must be compatible and the 

final product must be pleasant to use. 


Claims substantiation 

 

 

All proposed claims and methods of 

substantiation should be agreed at the start of 

product development so that a clear justification 

of claims can be provided from controlled 

laboratory trials. 

User trial results (responses from 50 people) or 

raw material data or a combination of the above 

can be used. 

 

From Boots document to own label suppliers 


Functional skin care 

 

 

The vehicle and the active ingredient(s). 

The two parts must be compatible and the 

final product must be pleasant to use. 

Which comes first? 

Depends on many factors 

 

 

 

Product form 

Packaging 

Claim 




To keep in good condition 

Remove dead skin cells 

Protect from UV radiation 

Support immune system 

Protect from free radical species /ROS 

Replace lost lipids 

Moisturise 




 

Narrowing the choice 

Cost 

Supporting the claim 

 

 

Check that claim support data is realistic and believable 

Will the product support the level of use on which claims 

data is based? 

Compatibility with vehicle 

Compatibility with packaging 

Safety assessment 

Patent search 


To keep in 

good 

condition 

Wash 

Scrub 

Remove dead skin cells 

Tape stripping! 

Peels including enzymes e.g. Papain 

Alpha hydroxy acids – AHAs 

 

Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid 

/ salicylic acid 

Fruit acids 


AHAs: Selecting the active 

 

Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid 

 

Proprietary mixtures e.g. Acifructol Complex ex Gattefosse 

Aqua (Water) 

Citric Acid 

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract 

Citrus Medica Limonum Extract 

Lactic Acid 

Malic Acid 

Propylene Glycol 

Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract 

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract 


AHAs: Safety & legal issues 

 

 

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that glycolic and lactic 

Acid are safe for use in cosmetic products at 

concentrations 3.5 

Boots recommendations 

Glycolic acid must be less than 4% in formula and 

pH of final product must be > 3.8. 

Lactic acid must be less than 2.5% in formula and 

pH of final product must be > 5. 

If total AHAs are more than 4% then wording 

must appear on pack recommending 

consumers use products with AHAs in 

conjunction with sunscreen products. 


AHAs: Selecting the active 

Possible choice 

Glycolic acid 

Plus proprietary mixture 

 

Combines effectiveness with natural claims 


AHAs: Designing the vehicle 

Parameters 

pH 4 – 5 

Electrolytes 

Low oil content 

Penetration required 

Possible forms 

o/w emulsion 

foaming mousse 

light scrub 


AHAs: Designing the vehicle 

 

o/w emulsion 

Emulsifier suitable for pH 4 – 5 

Oil or ester resistant to acid hydrolysis 

Penetration enhancer ? 

 

Balance efficacy against safety 

Urea or ethoxydiglycol 

Or soften SC with emollients 

Anti-irritation ingredient e.g. Bisabolol 

Perfume / Preservatives / Rheology modifier 


AHAs: Possible formulation 

3.00% Glyceryl stearate 

1.00% PEG-100 stearate 

3.00% Caprylic / capric triglyceride 

1.00% Paraffinum liquidum 

Aqua to 100% 

0.05% Disodium EDTA 

2.50% Glycolic acid 

3.00% Mixed fruit acids 

5.00% Ethoxydiglycol 

0.50% Bisabolol 

0.20% Xanthan gum 

Fragrance 

Preservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl paraben 

pH adjusted to 3.8 – 4.3 


To keep in 

good condition 

Protect from solar radiation 

Why we should do so! 


To keep in 

good 

condition 

Protect from solar radiation 

Sunscreen Actives 

 

 

Organic screens 

Less expensive 

Well known properties & technology 

But possible irritation 

Possibly unstable 

Product / pack interactions 

Inorganic 

Safe 

Broad spectrum 

But whitening on skin 

Drag on application 


UV Protect: Selecting the active 

Dependent on 

 

 

 

 

Required SPF 

Is UVA protection required? 

Intended market – legislation? 

Intended vehicle & pack form 

Clear gel 

o/w emulsion 

w/o emulsion 

Oil 

Spray 


UV Protect: Selecting the active 

Possible answer 

 

Organic UV absorber 

plus inorganic dispersion 

 

Not suitable for oil or clear gel 

e.g. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate – UVB 

TiO 2 

dispersion in oil phase to extend UV 

protection into UVA or 

ZnO dispersion for increased UVA 

protection 


UV Protect: Designing the vehicle 

Design parameters 

pH 

ZnO approx 8 

Effect of inorganic dispersion aid 

Solubility of active 

Skin penetration not wanted 

Water-resistant 

Pleasant to apply 


UV Protect: Possible formulation 

3.00% Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate 

2.00% Ethylhexyl Palmitate 

5.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 

1.50% Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane 

0.50% Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 

12.50% Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil 

3.50% Cera Alba (Beeswax) 

3.50% Sorbitan Palmitate 

Aqua (Water) to 100% 

2.00% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 

2.00% Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica 

3.50% Polysorbate 20 

0.30% Sodium Lactate 

Fragrance / Preservatives 


To keep in 

good 

condition 


Abstract USP 6,843,995 

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation 

containing an active complex comprised of an 

extract from truffles (Tuberaceae) in a 

cosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized. 

A preferred active complex is one that additionally 

contains a champagne product. Cosmetic 

preparations containing this active complex lead 

to an improved stimulation of the immune 

system, an improved regenerative effect and thus 

to an improved balance in the ecosystem of the 

skin. 



Possible formulation 

Truffles 

Champagne 


To keep in 

good 

condition 

Anti- oxidants 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Protect against free radicals 

Vitamin E - Tocopherol 

Vitamin C – Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compounds 

Ferulic acid 

Superoxide dismutase 

BHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds 

Numerous plant extracts e.g. 

Lycopene from tomatoes 

Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract 

Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract 

Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract 

Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extract 

Salix nigra (Willow) bark extract 


To keep in 

good 

condition 

Replace lost lipids 

As skin ages the ceramide content of the SC 

decreases. 

Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are 

effective in restoring lost lipids and the barrier 

functions of the skin. 

 

 

Ceramides AKA Sphingosines (9 identified) 

Fatty acid = linoleic acid particularly effective 

Together with cholesterol, lamella structures are 

formed, which penetrate upper SC. 


To keep in 

good 

condition 

Moisturise 

There is a water- gradient from the lower levels of the 

skin to its surface where it evaporates as transepidermal 

water loss (TEWL) 

 

 

 

There is a decrease in moisture content from the base 

layers to the surface (70% - >10%) 

As skin ages it loses more moisture but all skin may be 

subject to increased moisture loss through 

environmental conditions 

Moisturising is the basic requirement for nearly all skin 

care products 


Moisturise 

Select the active 

The choice of moisturising ingredients is 

very wide 

Petrolatum & other oils & fats form an 

occlusive film, virtually preventing TEWL 

Lanolin has moisture holding properties 

and can penetrate upper SC 


Moisturise 

 

Select the active 

 

 

 

 

Glycerin & other hygroscopic humectants 

attract water to themselves; with more moisture 

on the skin there is a reduction in loss through 

evaporation 

Proteins hold moisture and are substantive to 

skin 

NMF duplicates the skin moisturising system 

Lamellar structures penetrate SC, restoring its 

natural barrier properties 


1,2,6-Hexanetriol Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate Lactose PEG-8 

Moisturising 

2,3-Butanediol Chitosan PCA Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium PEG-9 Chloride 

Acetamide MEA Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan CopolymerLupine Amino Acids PEG-90 

Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract Choline Chloride Lysine PCA Polyamino Sugar Condensate 

Adenophora Stricta Root Extract Copper PCA Maltitol Polyglyceryl Sorbitol 

Agarose Corn Glycerides Manganese PCA Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate 

Alanyl Glutamine Diglycerin Mannitol Polyglycerylmethacrylate 

Albatrellus Confluens (Mushroom) Extract Dimethyl Imidazolidinone MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk Potassium Lactate 

Albumen Extract Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Menthyl PCA Potassium PCA 

Alcaligenes Polysaccharides Erythritol Methoxy PEG-10 PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether 

Algae Ethoxydiglycol Oleate Methoxy PEG-100 PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether 

Aloe Andongensis Extract Ethylhexyl PCA Methoxy PEG-16 PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine 

Aloe Andongensis Leaf Juice Fructose Methoxy PEG-40 PPG-6-Sorbeth-245 

Aloe Arborescens Leaf Protoplasts Glucamine Methyl Gluceth-10 PPG-6-Sorbeth-500 

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Gluconic Acid Methyl Gluceth-20 Propylene Glycol 

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Glucosamine Orange Peel Wax Saccharide Hydrolysate 

Amidinoproline Glucose Panthenol Saccharide Isomerate 

Anserine Glucose Glutamate PCA Saccharomyces Lysate Extract 

Arginine PCA Glucuronic Acid PEG-10 Sesame Amino Acids 

Bacillus/Rice Bran Extract/Soybean Extract Glycereth-12 Ferment Filtrate 

PEG-10 Propylene Glycol Sodium Aspartate 

Backhousia Anisata Leaf Extract Glycereth-20 PEG-100 Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate 

Banksia Spinulosa Flower Extract Glycereth-26 PEG-12 Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate 

Benzyl Hyaluronate Glycereth-7 PEG-135 Sodium Glucuronate 

Bidens Pilosa Extract Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate PEG-14 Sodium Lactate 

Bifida Ferment Extract Glycerin PEG-15 Butanediol Sodium PCA 

Bifida/Soybean Extract Ferment Glycol PEG-16 Sorbeth-20 

Bis-hydroxyethyl Tocopherylsuccinoylamido Hexacosyl Hydroxypropane 

Glycol PEG-18 Sorbeth-30 

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane Hydrogenated Honey PEG-180 Sorbeth-40 

Bittern Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate PEG-2 Lactamide Sorbeth-6 

Bixa Orellana Seed Oil Hydrolyzed Corn Starch PEG-20 Sorbitol 

Black Strap Powder 

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PEG-20 Acetate PEG-200Copolymer 

Sucrose 

Butyl Ethyl Propanediol Hydroxyethyl Sorbitol PEG-240 TEA-Lactate 

C30-45 Alkyl Methicone Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey PEG-32 TEA-PCA 

Calcium Fructoborate Inositol PEG-4 Trehalose Dihydrate 

Calcium PCA Lactamide MEA PEG-40 Urea 

Caprylyl Glycol/Glycerin/Polyacrylic Acid Lactamidopropyl Copolymer Trimonium ChloridePEG-55 

Urea-D-Glucuronic Acid 

Carnitine HCI Lactic Acid PEG-6 Xylitol 

Caryocar Coriaceum Seed Oil PEG-60 Xylitylglucoside 

Cellulose Succinate PEG-75 Yeast Polysaccharides 


Moisturise 


The brief 

Target skin type & area of application 

Claims 

The cost 

Petrolatum / glycerin etc are cheap 

Ceramides / yeast ferments etc are 

expensive 

Botanicals have consumer appeal 


Moisturise 


The pack form 

Spray / bottle / tube / jar 

The vehicle 

Gel / lotion / cream 

Other actives 

Multi-functional 


Moisturise 


If a gel 

 

What thickening system? 

Carbomers / cellulose / mineral / 

alginates? 

pH restraints? 

Clarity required? 

 

Oils & Fragrance create problems 

Compatibility issues? 


Moisturise 


If a gel 

 

What thickening system? 

Exposed to light? 

Photo-degradation 

 

Thinning and/or discolouration 

Preservative system? 

Mixing requirements? 

 

Heating / cooling / high shear / slow 

mixing 


Moisturise 


Select gel form 

 

Carbomer 

pH 5.5 - 7.5 

No electrolytes 

Water- soluble actives 

Chelate ions 

Protect against UV 

Cold mixing possible 

High shear not required 


Moisturising gel 

Carbomer based 

Chelate + UV Absorber (EDTA2Na +B4) 

+ Neutraliser (e.g. NaOH or TEA or AMP) 

+ Preservative system (e.g. Parabens) 

Humectant (e.g. Glycerin or PG or Sorbitol) 

Active e.g. 

 

 

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice 

Hydrolysed wheat protein 


Moisturise 

 


 

If a lotion 

 

What emulsifying system? 

Anionic / cationic / non- ionic 

w/o or o/w or w/Si/w 



Fragrance / polar & non- polar oils 

Stability 


Mixing requirements 

Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing 


Moisturise 

 


 

If a cream 

 


Anionic / cationic / non- ionic 

w/o or o/w or w/Si/w 



Stability 

Use of hydrocolloid 


Mixing requirements 

Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing 


Moisturising emulsions 

Aqueous Phase 

Oil phase 

Emulsifier system 

Rheological modifier 

Preservative system 

Active ingredients 

Fragrance 



 

 

 

 

 

Aqueous Phase 

Humectant / Moisturiser – CTFA makes no difference but JW 

thinks of humectants as hygroscopic materials used as much 

to keep the product moist as for moisturising skin. 

Humectants 

Glycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol 

(PEG) & various sugars 

Moisturisers 

Innumerable – 398 from Acetamide MEA to Zymomonas 

Ferment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water! 

Actives 

Most actives are water-soluble 

Preservative system 


Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Cognis 

Cascading theory 

means select a 

number of emollients 

so that the sensorial 

feel is spread 

throughout the time 

of application. 

Cosmetics should feel 

good! 


Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Degussa 

surface tension [mN/m] 

33 

32 

31 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26 

25 

24 

23 

22 

21 

20 

19 

18 

1 

4 

3 

2 

9 

5 6 

light, fresh 

7 

8 

12 

10 

11 

PP = pour point, CP = cloud 

point 

21 23 

17 

2 10 viscosity [mPas] 100 

13 

14 

15 

17 

18 

16 

19 

20 

1 Cyclopentasiloxane


Oil Phase 

Watch out for 

 

 

 

Rancidity 

Oil phase incompatibilities e.g. 

Waxes crystallising 

Dimethicone / Mineral oil 

 

Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Does 

it stay homogenous when cooled? 

Dragging / greasiness / odours 




Anionic 

 

 

 

 

 

o/w 

More commonly associated with cleansing 

surfactants 

SLS - irritant 

TEA-Stearate – OK for cleansers / not leave-on 

Potassium cetyl phosphate – forms liquid 

crystals, worth attention 




Cationic 

 

 

 

 

w/o 

More commonly associated with hair 

conditioning 

Irritancy concerns 

However at least one material supplier is 

promoting their use with the following claims:- 

Cationic O/W emulsifier based on renewable raw 

materials with excellent emulsifying properties 




Cationic 

Excellent emulsification behaviour 

Light emulsions, matte finish 

Powdery, smooth and dry skin feel after 

application 

Low greasiness, stickiness or tack 

Inherent moisturisation 

Substantive to skin 

Extraordinary and unique skin feel 




Non-ionic 

 

 

 

 

o/w or w/o 

Selection using HLB system possible 

Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated pair 

e.g. Sorbitan stearate / Polysorbate- 20 

Alkoxylated alcohols 

e.g. Ceteareth- 20 

But move against ethoxylates! 




 

Recent introductions of sucrose esters and 

understanding the benefits of liquid crystal 

formation is driving new formulations 



Benefits of liquid crystal formation 

Water, fatty acids, 

cholesterol, 

triglycerides and 

ceramides form the 

lamellar (layered) gellike 

lipid system of the 

horny layer. 



 

Non-ionic liquid crystal forming emulsifiers 

Cetearyl glucoside 

Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivate 

Sucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearate 

Sorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurate 

Cetearyl polyglucoside 

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate 

Cetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2 

dipolyhydroxystearate 





 

Liquid crystals are 

states of matter that 

exist in between the 

solid and the ordinary 

liquid phase. The main 

characteristic of the 

phase is the existence 

of partial ordering 

(positional and 

orientational) like that 

of the crystal phase but 

the phase has the 

ability to flow like a 

liquid. 



Oil Phase 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Refer to Cognis cascading theory of emollients 

Degussa selection chart 

Cyclopentasiloxane stops soaping up 

Vegetable oils are polar (& popular) 

Capric/caprylic triglyceride is good stuff 

Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and/or glyceryl 

stearate helps stabilise LC structures 



Rheology modifier 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Xanthan gum 

Minerals – e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / Laponite 

Carbomer 

Acrylates copolymer 

Sclerotium Gum 

Mannan 

Modified starch 

Gum tragacanth 

Alginates 

Silica 

Cellulose derivatives 



•Preservative system 

•Affected by other ingredients 

•pH 

•Market trends 

•Active ingredients 

•Affected by marketing claims 

•Other ingredients 

•pH 

•Fragrance 

•No Fragrance / Perfume / Essential Oils 

•Affected by named allergens 


Moisturising emulsions: possible formulation 

7.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride 

2.50% Cetearyl alcohol 

5.00% Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil 

1.50% Cyclopentasiloxane 

0.01% Ceramide 

0.10% Tocopherol 

Aqua (Water) to 100% 

0.08% Disodium EDTA 

1.50% Cetearyl polyglucoside (emulsifier) 

0.20% Xanthan gum 

0.50% Niacinamide 

5.00% Glycerin 

1.00% Sodium PCa 

3.00% Aloe barbadensis leaf juice 

2.00% Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract 

Preservatives / Fragrance / pH adjusters 


DLC Question 

A major brand of moisturising lotion lists its 

ingredients as 

 

Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinum 

liquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl 

Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100, 

Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance, 

Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin, 

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium 

EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 

Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4. 


DLC Question 

Claims are:- 

Softens and smoothes for radiant skin. 

Light, Non- Greasy Formula. 

Dermatologist Tested. 

Non- Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores). 

Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin with 

immediate surge of active moisture to soothe dryness 

without greasy feel. 

Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essential 

fluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple. 

Restores- Works like the essential fluids abundant in 

young skin to help restore skin to its natural beauty and 

diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 


DLC Question 

Using your knowledge of 

ingredients briefly describe the function of 

each ingredient in this product, give your 

best guess for the % by weight of the 

individual ingredients and in no more than 

100 words write a label description of the 

properties of this product aimed to sell it to 

a consumer. 


DLC Question 

Aqua 

Cetyl Palmitate 

Glycerin 

Paraffinum liquidum 

Petrolatum 

Cetyl Alcohol 

Glyceryl Hydroxystearate 

Stearic Acid 

Steareth 100 

Dimethicone 

Octyldodecyl Myristate 

Fragrance 

Potassium Hydroxide 

DMDM Hydantoin 

Iodopropynyl 

Butylcarbamate 

Tetrasodium EDTA 

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl 

Acrylate Crosspolymer 

Carbomer 

Red 4 


DLC Question 

 

 

It is your task as head of product development to 

reformulate this product in order to make strong 

moisturising claims and to avoid using materials 

that are no longer perceived as appealing to 

consumers. There are no financial restraints on 

the material costs. 

Finally, list the reformulated product ingredients 

in descending order of concentration, show their 

approximate % in the new formula and rewrite 

the label copy to appeal to the target consumer. 


If you get it right! 


And if you get it wrong!

A basic guide to cosmetic formulation - Creative Developments

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