Male Grooming 2007 - Creative Developments

Feature: Men’s Grooming with Emphasis on Skin Care November 2007
John Woodruff
In April 2006, Imogen Mmathews wrote “The maturity of the men's grooming market has been a long time
coming. Not so long ago, men would have been reluctant to admit using a deodorant or shower gel, let alone a
brand with a For Men label. Men's grooming meant little more than a daily wash with soap, a shave, and
perhaps a splash of something sweet-smelling on special occasions”. [Ref 1]
According to data published by Euromonitor male skin care spend in the UK already out-values that on preshave
and post shave and hair, bath and shower products and is second in value only to deodorants and
antiperspirants. Under 35’s living alone are responsible for 24% of spend on PC products in Europe. In 1971
24% of men and 19% of women were single; this increased to 34% of men and 26% of women in 2000. This
means that a large proportion of men no longer have access to whatever product their partner places in the
bathroom, whether purchased for them, like shaving products, or for the partners own use, like cleansers and
moisturisers. Because of this growth many of the main ingredient suppliers have investigated the men’s
grooming market and produced presentations full of statistics and ideas
Uniqema: There are three types of man. The Retrosexual, who takes very little interest in grooming
and represents about 43% of the male population of British men; the Ubersexual who invest in
grooming but only with rationale, and the Metrosexual, described as urban males of any sexual
orientation, who have a strong aesthetic sense and spend a great deal of time and money on their
appearance and lifestyle; they are the fashion-conscious target audience of men’s magazines.
Seppic: The most important characteristic of men is that they prefer simple things, with easy steps and
no-nonsense. They are not interested in multi-functional products opting instead for the no fuss and
minimalist approach to their personal care routine. For this reason, shaving and the basics dominate,
despite sophisticated offerings. Furthermore, men pay more attention to a product’s functionality than
criteria such as fashion or brand image, which may be secondary considerations. They seek products
that deliver results.
Gattefosse: Nowadays men are a growing profitable consumer group which the cosmetic industry
cannot ignore, and in fact it hasn’t. More and more brands are developing men-only lines, from
toiletries to skin care, focussing on the needs of the male consumer, who looks for functionality,
efficacy and practicality but also for an eye-catching concept that connects with his personality, his
lifestyle and his aspirations.
Symrise: Drivers of male grooming are now very similar to those in the female market including image
creation, emulation of celebrities and enhancement of attractiveness and delay of the ageing process as
well as pleasure and the maintenance of health. Body image is very important and incorporates body,
mind and spirit. As a result, men are looking for brands with multi-solutions.
Symrise: The metrosexual stocks his medicine cabinet with prestige grooming products, maintains an
impressive up-to-date wardrobe, and visits chic salons for a variety of men's aesthetic services that
include hairstyling, facials, manicures, and body hair removal.
In essence, the retrosexual uses an all-in-one cream and maybe some cologne, the urbersexual uses facial
cleansers and moisturisers and the metrosexual uses buttocks firming gel and artificial sun tanning products.
There are differences between male and female skin: in males testosterone increases collagen production
resulting in thicker skin whilst lower levels of estrogens mean less hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a
moisturiser and gives skin a smooth, firm feel, which is one reason that female skin is softer than male skin.
High levels of androgens increase the size of sebaceous glands leading to increased sebum levels and larger
pores and young males are prone to acne. Because of these factors men need different products to meet their
different skin care needs.
John Woodruff©
November 2006

Feature: Men’s Grooming with Emphasis on Skin Care November 2007
John Woodruff
As with females; men’s skin care needs varies with age. For the younger male it is particularly important to
avoid oily and greasy products and to use non-comedogenic ingredients. Uniqema hosts a computer-generated
selection process on line called Senselect [Ref 2]. By inputting high spreadability with low greasiness it is
possible to obtain a number of suggested ingredients and emulsifiers and combinations of these that give
starting points for formulating compositions with the desired properties. Some suggestions are glyceryl
isostearate or ethylhexyl cocoate with Arlatone V175 as emulsifier; isohexadecane or triethylhexanoin with
Arlacel 165 as emulsifier and diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate or isopropyl isostearate with Arlatone LC as
emulsifier.
As the male begins to age more moisturising is suggested; the light non-greasy vehicles formulated for the
younger male give way to more effective skin protection. Senselect suggests oil-in-water emulsions based on
Arlatone 2121, INCI: Sorbitan stearate (&) sucrose cocoate, with emollients such as PPG-15 stearyl ether,
triethylhexanoin and squalane and caprylic/capric triglyceride. Dimethicone, sweet almond oil, cocoa butter and
shea butter and various combinations of these are also suggested. For a richer feel the same emollients may used
in w/o emulsions based on Arlacel P135, INCI: PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.
There are many other systems and in addition to the Uniqema emulsifiers already named the author also favours
Montanov 68, INCI: Cetearyl glucoside (&) cetearyl alcohol from Seppic and Olivem 1000, INCI: Cetearyl
olivate (&) sorbitan olivate, B&T Srl, for the preparation of light and readily absorbed emulsions based on
liquid crystal technology [Ref 3]. Another one of interest is Phoenomulse 100, launched in 2005 by Phoenix
Chemical Inc. as a new emulsification system for volatile and difficult to process oils, silicones, solvents and
esters. The emulsified system forms quickly with minimal sheer at room temperature and remains
thermodynamically stable and can then be used within a wider emulsion or suspension system if required.
For the older male deeper more aggressive cleaning and exfoliation may be required (is there really a better
exfoliant than using a sharp razor over face and neck at least once per day?) and everyday sun protection will
help ward off age spots and wrinkles. Skin tone may be of concern and there are various materials claimed to
even out skin tone and to lighten complexions [Ref. 4]
Cleansing skin is of paramount importance, and especially for the acne-prone this must be done using very mild
ingredients. Previous features on surfactants and bathroom products have focused on these. [Refs 5, 6]
Generally speaking sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycosides, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, isethionates and
cocoamphoacetates can be used for face and body washes and may be incorporated into facial cleansers, scrubs
and exfoliating products. From Phoenix, Phoenomulse CE-1 is a pre-emulsified product utilising Phoenomulse
100 and a fluoro-silicone ether. This novel product, when used in a surfactant system, offers innovation in
spontaneous foam burst technology, with stable, creamy foam produced on the skin without the need for
pressurised packaging. It can also be used to give added texture to creams, serums and other leave-on products.
Adding viscosity to mild cleansing products can be problematical; even if sodium chloride works it is contraindicated
and formulators turn to PEG-150 distearate, xanthan gum, cellulose thickeners and commercially
available specialities such as the Promidium products from Uniqema. Many others are available, as discussed in
previous articles. [Refs 5, 6]
Having formulated suitable cosmetic vehicles the next decision is what to use them for and what additives
are available to transform these into fully functional products.
Avoiding irritation is particularly important for male skin, especially the 15 to 35 year age group and there are
various ingredients suggested for reducing irritation caused by shaving; either as additives to a wet shave
product or for pre-shave and after-shave compositions.
Silab offers Calmiskin, a peppermint-based material used at 2 – 5% to calm skin irritations and to leave it cool
and refreshed when used in after-shave balms and light moisturisers. It is also claimed to stimulate release of
John Woodruff©
November 2006

Feature: Men’s Grooming with Emphasis on Skin Care November 2007
John Woodruff
endorphins to stimulate a sense of wellbeing. Menthol is good for instant cooling but to extend the sensation
other additives are required. Menthyl lactate in combination with menthol forms the basis of Koko ML, Sino
Lion, and menthyl lactate is also available in itself from A&E Connock; as Covafresh from Sensient Cosmetic
Technologies; as Frigydil from Prod’Hyg and as Frescolat ML from Symrise, which also offers Frescolat
MGA, INCI: Menthone glycerin acetal. Menthyl PCA and menthol are the principal ingredients of Questice
Plus from Quest. Cooling Agent 10 is menthoxypropanediol, available from Takasago International Co. and
from the same company Coolact P is isopulegol. For more information on cooling agents and their chemistry
plus evidence for their use as insect repellents see Cooler than Menthol [Ref.7].
Avenanthramides are the active components of oat, responsible for its anti-histamine activity and antiinflammatory
and anti-itch properties. SymCalmin from Symrise is a 5% solution of a synthetic
avenanthramide, dihydroavenanthramide D and is suitable for after-shave products to counteract shaving rash.
Eashave, Pentapharm, is a mixture of wheat germ extract, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, sodium
hyaluronate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate in aqueous solution with anti-irritant properties that moisturises
the skin and also replenishes sebum lost during the shaving process. From Seppic, Sepicalm is a mixture of
sodium cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, said to have a calming and
moisturising effect on stressed skin and to decrease erythema and stinging following shaving.
Allantoin has long been a favourite ingredient for after-shave products for its wound healing properties. A
material with scar healing properties is Calophyllum inophyllum (Tamuna) oil, available from Eurofarpoint. It
is said to have anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties and to deliver skin benefits such as
improved elasticity, smoothness and firmness and to provide anti-wrinkling properties. From Arch Chemicals,
Biodynes O3, INCI: Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate, is recommended for lipid barrier protection and
repair. Acqua-Biomin Zinc Y3 promotes cell turn-over of the dermis and assists in the healing process and
Biodynes TRF is a yeast ferment mixture said to increase oxygen utilisation of skin cells, increase collagen
synthesis and elastin formation and to act as a soothing anti-irritant.
There are scores of moisturising agents available to the cosmetic formulator: if looking for something new from
a vegetable source Variati & Co. offers Hydroveg VV. It is described as a synergistic blend of hydrolysed
wheat proteins, lysine and sodium PCA with urea, allantoin and lactic acid, which closely resembles the skin’s
natural moisturisng factor (NMF) to prevent and correct skin dryness. The same company also provides IS
Avocadato; it is the ester resulting from the transesterification reaction of isostearyl alcohol with avocado oil
and is described as a skin friendly ester, especially suitable and effective for the treatment and recovery of skin
lipid equilibrium. Its polarity characteristics and molecular arrangement help skin protection through a
significant reduction of TEWL and its blend of fatty chains essentially reproduces those in human sebum.
Hydroviton 24, Symrise, is also said to mimic the skin’s NMF and is described as a synergistic combination of
humectants, hygroscopic substances, skin rejuvenators, and skin protectants. Its principal ingredients are sodium
lactate and lactic acid with glycerin, serine, urea and allantoin. It also contains sodium chloride, which is said to
act as an osmotic equaliser plus sorbitol and pentylene glycol. From Seppic, Aquaxyl based on xylitylglucoside,
anhydroxylitol and xylitol, is described as a restructuring and moisturising agent suitable for soothing aftershave
products.
Cariciline, Greentech, is an extract of fig, Ficus carica, which contains the protease enzyme, ficun. It is rich in
galacturonic acid and other pectins, free sugars and malic acid. It is an effective moisturiser and sensorial tests
elicited the response that it provided a refreshing, softening effect and an improved sense of well-being. Also
from Greentech, Hydralys is an extract from Cucumis melo, which contains 95 % water, mucilage and vitamins
and has softening and moisturising properties on sore and dried skin.
John Woodruff©
November 2006

Feature: Men’s Grooming with Emphasis on Skin Care November 2007
John Woodruff
The metrosexual does not wish to be seen covered in body hair and looks for ways to reduce it without resorting
to waxing and other forms of human torture. ARP 100, Greentech, is an aqueous-alcoholic solution of Serenoa
repens fruit extract, Epilobium roseum extract and Cucurbita pepo seed extract, which is said to inhibit hair
growth. Depiline, Sederma, is also claimed to reduce hair growth by slowing the mitosis rate of the
keratinocytes of the hair bulb.
And finally: Silab suggest Actiflow; INCI: Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract to reduce dark circles under eyes
and to improve the appearance when hung-over and those buttocks firming gels? There are many firming and
slimming ingredients available and what works on a woman’s thighs should work on the male buttocks!
Suggested starting points are BodyFit, Sederma, based on glaucine, said to stimulate lipolysis by calcium flow
regulation, and Volufiline, also from Sederma, which is claimed to increase the formation of adipocytes tissue
to enhance the curves of breast, buttocks, hands or feet.
Ref 1 Moving Beyond Metrosexual, Mathews, I. www.specialchem4cosmetics.com, April 2006
Ref 2
Senselect: http://www.world.uniqema.com/
Ref 3 Crystal Class, Woodruff, J. SPC Vol 78, No.11, Nov. 2005, p51-54
Ref 4 A Lighter Shade of Pale, Woodruff, J. SPC Vol 79, No.08, Aug. 2006, p36-38
Ref 5 The Art of Clean Living, Woodruff J. SPC Vol 78 No. 2, Feb 2005, p26-28
Ref 6 Life in the Bathroom, Woodruff, J. SPC Vol 79, No.2, p 24-26
Ref 7
http://www.leffingwell.com/cooler_than_menthol.htm
John Woodruff©
November 2006