New Actives 2009 - Creative Developments

Feature: New Actives SPC Summer 2009
John Woodruff
It can readily be shown that a sun cream protects skin from sunburn, that an antiperspirant reduces perspiration
or that a shampoo cleanses hair but actives rely more on in-vitro assessment and long-term usage so their
efficacy is harder to prove. Most are either plant extracts or synthesised peptides. Almost all have antioxidant
properties and claim to improve skin condition. What follows is a variety of actives that have been recently
introduced to the cosmetic world. Their properties are introduced without comment by the writer but in each
case the suppliers’ claims are backed by documentary evidence that is available from them by request.
Without stimulating the SIR II gene a daughter cell will contain defects inherited from the mother cell and more
defects are added with each generation. The latest active ingredient from Active Concepts is ACB Sirtuin
Complex and cells treated with this material are repaired before they produce a daughter cell so defects are
minimised. Another recent launch from Active Concepts is ACB Wakame, which uses molecular biology to
enhance cellular energy without increasing damaging reactive oxygen species and is both energising and antiaging.
Andawaline is an extract from Tinospora crispa, a plant with almost mystical medicinal properties in Chinese
and Asian medicine. It is produced by E.U.K. Vegetable Extracts and tests show it to have moisturising and
antimicrobial properties and to be a strong antioxidant; outperforming blueberries, blackberries, strawberries
raspberries and other well known fruits in the Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) assay.
Azeloglicina from Sinerga is the condensation product of azelaic acid and glycine and is offered as an
ingredient that improves skin colour, regulates sebum production and improves skin hydration and elasticity. It
also reduces the count of p.acnes and acne lesions are reduced in size and number following topical application
of the ingredient in a suitable medium. Also from Sinerga and with an anti-acne effect is Tiolisina Complex 30.
It is a combination of thioaminolysinic ester of cysteine and thiazolidine that regulates sebum production and
reduces papules, pustules and inflammation caused by acne. A third material from Sinerga is Trealix, a mixture
of trehalose and hydrolysed vegetable protein that adds a barrier film to the skin, protecting it from
environmental influences and providing long term moisturising.
Bodyfensine is a new tri-peptide from Lipotec developed to protect the skin from external microbial invasion
and lower the risk of infections such as in acne-prone skin by inducing the expression of natural skin antibiotics.
The capacity of the skin and other organs to resist infection depends on the innate production of antimicrobial
peptides. The most common human antimicrobial peptides belong to the defensin family, and their primary
function is to protect the skin from invasion by foreign pathogens. These natural antibiotics are cationic
peptides produced by keratinocytes in the skin that interact with the anionic components of bacteria, fungi, and
viruses to permeate the microbial membrane and disrupt their structure. Lipotec created and evaluated an
extensive library of peptides to find the optimum material to reinforce the skin’s natural defence mechanisms.
Celligent from Rhan is suggested for its active cell and DNA protective properties. According to Rahn the
active ingredient complex has been especially developed for treating UV-stressed skin. The composition of
carnosolic acid and ethyl ferulate neutralises the free radicals which damage skin cells, thus effectively
preventing the occurrence of UV damage. The uridine monophosphate component is one of the pre-cursors to
DNA synthesis and supports DNA repair in skin cells.
Skin chromophores are responsible for the colour our eyes perceive. Chromocare from Sederma claims to
modify light scattering in the skin, to improve luminosity and to reduce redness and darkness. It reduces
oxidative stress, which is the main cause of chromophore ageing and skin damage leading to collagen
degradation, inflammation and brown spots. Chromocare comprises two extracts, Rabdosia rubescens extract,
rich in oridorin and Siegesbeckia orientalis extract, rich in darutigenol.
John Woodruff©
Spring 2009

Feature: New Actives SPC Summer 2009
John Woodruff
Cleomilk from Rhan is a plant-based concentrated skin care lotion with a composition similar to that of natural
milk. Its main ingredients, black caraway oil and sesame oil, reduce moisture loss from the skin and have a refatting
effect. In combination with Aloe vera leaf juice, this strengthens the skin’s natural water storage. It is
free from preservatives and conforms to natural cosmetic guidelines and is recommended for bath products such
as shower gels, washing lotions and liquid soaps for skin care use on the face and body and as a moisturiser in
o/w emulsions.
Codif has developed an effective natural active ingredient called Dictyopteris oil, said to add volume to the lips
and breasts. Described as an adiponutrine booster it is said to promote adipocyte nourishing action for
restructuring volumes. Dictyopteris oil has a volume-enhancing effect after application on the breasts and the
tissues regain density. Lips are plumped and the surrounding roughness and lines disappear. Dictyopteris oil is a
high purity oil obtained from the brown alga Dictyopteris membranacea. The oil is extracted using supercritical
CO2, an advanced process that ensures the key active molecules remain intact.
Ecoline is the latest range of actives from Unipex Innovations that are Ecocert organic, preservative-free and
chemical and solvent-free. Based on a Native American theme, there are three actives; Nibi, Songa and Kizis.
Nibi means water and is extracted from Sambucus nigra and said to stimulate hyaluronic acid production and is
suggested as an active for skin hydration; Songa means bear and is an eco-certified active obtained from
Solidago virgaurea that is claimed to stimulate pro-collagen and collagen synthesis and recommended for skin
firmness and regeneration. Kizis means sun and is an eco-certified active extracted from Cimicifuga racemosa
roots that stimulates melanin production and offers anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties making it
suitable for after sun products.
Exossine is comprised of two products; Exo-H and Exo-T, which are skin care ingredients sustainably sourced
from a Pacific atoll. The actives are produced by micro-organisms using a green fermentation process. Exo-T
provides a texturing effect and improves skin smoothness leading to an even skin complexion and Exo-H
provides excellent hydrating properties and helps maintain an optimal skin barrier function leading to young
and healthy looking skin, claim Unipex Innovations. Also from Unipex is Thymulen-4; a biomimetic peptide
derived from the youth hormone thymopoietin. It works by reinforcing the cutaneous immune defence system
and boosts epidermal regeneration.
Gattefossé introduce Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio, an aqueous-ethanol extract of the aerial parts of the cotton
thistle, as a new natural restructuring and anti-aging active with organic certification. This new active is claimed
to directly stimulate epidermal regeneration and to promote cutaneous repair. By acting on keratinocyte
differentiation it stimulates the optimal epidermal reconstruction of dry or damaged skin. For normal skin, the
material helps the natural regeneration process for a fresher, smoother and more radiant complexion.
Granpowder Lumière are Polymethylsilsesquioxane/benzimidazole/diamond copolymers from Grant Industries
that offer photo luminescent, light scattering and colour neutralising properties. The particles are optically
transparent to incident light and alter the perceived appearance of the skin by refracting favourable light. The
coloured powders contain D&C dyes complexed to the diamond in such a way that they neutralise skin
discolorations without leaving an opaque and mask like appearance. All six Granpowder Lumière powders emit
the same intense blue glow when illuminated by long wave UV and it is claimed that the synergy between the
optically transparent polymethylsilsesquioxane, the photoluminescent diamond and the complexed D&C dye
leaves skin looking young, even-toned and healthy. There are six variants to treat different skin imperfections
and each powder can be used independently or combined to create unique shades, specific to the intended
application.
Hylasome EG-10 from Lipo Chemicals Inc is cross-linked hyaluronic acid that delivers moisture to the skin
over an extended time period. Lipo claim that it has five times greater moisturising activity than non-cross-
John Woodruff©
Spring 2009

Feature: New Actives SPC Summer 2009
John Woodruff
linked hyaluronic acid and as a secondary benefit it is also a free-radical scavenger. It has a non-equilibrium gel
structure with gel domains that hold tightly bound water. The material forms a film on the skin and delivers this
water over time.
Kalpariane from Biotech Marine is based on an extract of brown seaweed and is claimed to protect and
revitalise skin, to improve its firmness and act as a deep moisturiser this reducing wrinkles. It also claims to
prevent the degradation of elastin and collagen and to stimulate cell energy and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.
Laboratoires Serobiologiques suggest Euphoryl to stimulate production of dopamine; Hyalurosmooth as a
botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid; Pilisoft as a botanical hair growth inhibitor, especially for sensitive
skin; Skinasensyl, a tetrapeptide that targets over-reactive skin and Sphingoceryl WS contains phytoceramides
extracted from sunflowers for hair care and skin moisturising.
Metabiotics Resveratrol from Arch Personal Care utilises its latest fermentation fusion technology platform.
Pichia Pastoris is used to ferment resveratrol resulting in metabolites that offer cosmetic benefits over and
above those of the original starting material. Metabiotics Resveratrol does not contain resveratrol as it is
fermented until there is no detectable resveratrol present and so is free of restrictive patents. The main activity is
for anti-ageing applications and key effects are anti-wrinkle and lifting action, smoothing the skin, enhancing
skin tone and boosting collagen IV, an essential component of the dermal-epidermal junction. It also possesses
anti-inflammatory action.
At In-Cosmetics, Gattefossé launched the latest addition to its Mineral Matters range. Rich in magnesium,
Oli’Vîne is said to increase the cellular energy level and help the skin cells to fight against stress via an optimal
adaptive answer. Stones are compounds rich in oligo-elements, essential catalysts of the principal biochemical
vital cell reactions. Gattefossé has developed a unique technology to extract essential oligo-elements directly
from stones and make them bio-available for skin cells.
Phytelene Complex EGX 772 from Greentech is a mixture of marine extracts claimed to improve
microcirculation, protect against free-radicals, stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and moisturise the skin.
It is an aqueous/glycolic solution and is preservative free.
Phytami Dragonfruit is Hylocereus undatus (Dragonfruit) extract and is the latest plant extract to join Alban
Muller’s preservative-free, glycerin based plant extract range. With its moisturising and anti-oxidant properties,
this exotic extract is ideal for all skin care applications. Also from Alban Muller, Botamix Anti-Age is a
complex mixture of plant extracts with anti-ageing, revitalising and anti-oxidant properties.
DSM Pentapharm seeks to tackle the symptoms of Rosacea and skin redness with Regu-CEA, which helps to
relieve and repair skin irritation, prevent vasodilation and inhibit inflammation and the release of proteases. It
also helps to prevent damage to skin structures and provides excellent skin-soothing properties, say the makers.
It comprises spent grain wax, which has anti-irritant effects and antihistaminic properties; palmitoyl tripeptide-5
that stimulates the production of collagen, repairs extracellular matrix damage, and firms the skin and
conjugated linoleic acid, which has anti-oxidative properties and helps to soothe skin irritation and to restore the
epidermal barrier function.
Rosmarinyl Glucoside is an Ecocert approved glucosylated plant polyphenol from LibraGen. Starting with
Melissa, LibraGen obtain rosmarinic acid and then convert this to rosmarinic acid-d-glucoside by an enzymatic
process. When topically applied in a suitable vehicle it is converted back to rosmarinic acid by skin microflora
and skin cells. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory, soothing and free-radical inhibiting properties.
Relifoil 25 and Relifoil 50 are suggested as additives for incorporation in skin care formulations such as creams,
emulsions, milks and gels by E.U.K. They are mixtures of Baobab oil and free fatty acids obtained from grape
seed oil by enzyme hydrolysis and are claimed to rebuild the epidermal barrier, to have antioxidant activity and
John Woodruff©
Spring 2009

Feature: New Actives SPC Summer 2009
John Woodruff
to reduce epidermal water loss. They differ in their content of free fatty acids but both show anti-inflammatory
activity and protect against skin ageing.
RevitElix and RevitElix Nutra from Croda are plant derived sources of Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids from
Echium plantagineum seed oil for topical and ingested application. They are shown to regenerate dermal
structure and boost skin protection and claim to provide beauty from within. When taken as a nutritional
supplement Croda claim that omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids work with the body’s metabolic pathways to enhance
the natural regenerative properties of skin. When RevitElix is topically applied it significantly increases
collagen, fibrillin and decorin synthesis and boosts the natural skin barrier to prevent UVB inflammatory
damage. Perceivable benefits are said to be a reduction in wrinkles and an increase in skin elasticity.
Sereniks-207 is offered by Biopharmacopae as a novel cosmetic additive with strong anti-inflammatory and
anti-redness effects and is also said to have anti-ageing and antimicrobial properties. Silab suggest Zenicyl as
the youth restoring partner of overworked skin; Cohesium for tightening the skin junctions for better
moisturising and Papilactyl D to improve skin resilience.
Symrise has launched several new actives in recent months. SymTriol is described as a synergistic blend of 1,2-
octanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and methylbenzyl alcohol and is a multi-functional ingredient with moisturising,
anti-microbial and fragrance properties. When used at 0.80% in a nonionic emulsion it achieved a 3-log
reduction of the normal challenge organisms within two days. SymHelios is a new cosmetic ingredient for skin
care having a positive influence on skin health. It can be used in protective skin care products to protect against
the long term damaging effects of UVB rays and it reduces UVB induced wrinkles and inflammation. The third
material is SymVital, described as a synergistic blend of aloe vera leaf juice, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
and raspberry leaf extract to provide an anti aging ingredient that enhances collagen synthesis within the skin.
Evonik Degussa has recently launched Tego Cosmo LSG, a water-soluble, natural beta-glucan biopolymer
obtained via fermentation. The large water-binding capacity, soothing properties and positive effects on the skin
barrier combined with its silky skin feel make it suitable for formulations targeted for skin protection. It has also
launched Tego Cosmo PGA, a natural and biodegradable gamma polyglutamic acid. This biopolymer,
polypeptide of L-glutamic acid is a film former that provides beneficial moisturising and sensory benefits.
The major cell type in the dermis is the fibroblast, a cell that synthesizes protein products, such as the
extracellular matrix, and connective tissue fibres, such as collagen, elastin and reticulin. These proteins are
responsible for the proper integrity and elasticity of skin. Over time, cells show a decrease in their replication
and metabolic capacity, resulting in a reduction in their number of duplications. Vitasource from Provital is a
purified fraction obtained from the roots of Scutellaria baicalensis georgi that extends the active life of human
fibroblasts in vitro by approximately 10%, thus delaying their aging process.
Volulip from Sederma is a combination of Portulaca pilosa extract and the deoxygenated natural peptide Pal-
KMO2K in a lipo-soluble excipient. It is said to double the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and to strongly
stimulate the synthesis of matrix and dermal-epidermal junction molecules leading to an improvement of the
internal and superficial lip texture with a visible impact on lip shape and an increase of lip volume, hydration
and softness.
Whitesphere is the latest product launch from Soliance. It is presented as a potent skin whitening complex to
help fade away dark spots. Whitesphere Premium is a combination of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glabridin,
extracted from the roots of Glycyrrhiza Glabra, and a peptide extract of a brown macroalgae, Undaria
pinnatifida, all encapsulated in spherulites. Spherulites are formed by a patented microencapsulation process
that allow direct delivery of the active ingredients to the target cell to fade away age spots. It’s mechanism of
action is a 3-stage process combining tyrosinase inhibition with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.
John Woodruff©
Spring 2009

Feature: New Actives SPC Summer 2009
John Woodruff
Xeradin from Provital is a functional moisturising ingredient obtained from sage cultivated under xeric
conditions to achieve the desired adaptogenic mechanisms. Xeradin is an active moisturising agent, as it
increases the level of skin moisture without altering its barrier function and it gives an immediate and long
lasting moisturising effect.
Trade Name Principal Actives Supplier UK Distributor
ACB Sirtuin Saccharomyces podophyllum peltatum ferment
Complex filtrate
Active Concepts IMCD
ACB Wakame Undaria pinnatifida ferment filtrate Active Concepts IMCD
Andawaline Tinospora crispa stem extract
E.U.K. Vegetable
Extracts
Gemro Products
Azeloglicina Potassium azeloyl diglycinate Sinerga Chemlink
Bodyfensine Acetyl dipeptide-3 aminohexanoate Lipotec S.Black
Botamix Anti- Iris florentina root extract, Panax ginseng extract,
Age
Vitis vinifera (Grape) leaf extract
Alban Muller IMCD
Chromocare
Rabdosia rubescens extract, Siegesbeckia
orientalis extract
Sederma
Croda Europe
Cleomilk
Sesamum indicum seed oil, Nigella sativa seed
oil, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Rahn Cosmetics Rahn UK
Celligent
Helianthus annuus seed oil, Ethyl ferulate,
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Disodium
uridine phosphate
Rahn Cosmetics Rahn UK
Dictyopteris oil
Dictyopteris membranaceae
Codif Recherche
& Nature
Chesham
Speciality
Ingredients
Ecoline Kizis Cimicifuga racemosa root extract
Unipex
Innovations
IMCD
Ecoline Nibi Sambucus nigra flower extract
Unipex
Innovations
IMCD
Ecoline Songa Solidago virgaurea (Goldenrod) extract
Unipex
Innovations
IMCD
Euphoryl
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Schinus
Laboratoires
terebinthifolius seed extract
Serobiologiques
Cognis/Kemcare
Exo-H
Alteromonas exopolysaccharide extract
Unipex
Innovations
IMCD
Exo-T
Vibrio exopolysaccharide extract
Unipex
Innovations
IMCD
Gatuline Skin-
Repair Bio
Onopordum acanthium flower/leaf/Sstem extract Gattefossé Gattefossé (UK)
Granpowder Polymethylsilsesquioxane/benzimidazole/diamon
Lumière d copolymer
Grant Industries IMCD
Hyalurosmooth Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide
Laboratoires
Serobiologiques
Cognis/Kemcare
Hylasome EG-10 Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Lipo Chemicals Adina Cosmetic
Inc.
Ingredients
Kalpariane Alaria esculenta extract Biotech Marine
Adina Cosmetic
Ingredients
Metabiotics
Arch Personal Adina Cosmetic
Pichia/Resveratrol ferment extract
Resveratrol
Care
Ingredients
Oli’Vine Olivine extract Gattefossé Gattefossé (UK)
Phytami
Dragonfruit
Hylocereus undatus (Dragonfruit) extract) Alban Muller IMCD
Phytelene
Complex
EGX772
Porphyra umbilicalis extract, Spirulina maxima
extract, Himantalia elongata extract, Crithmum
maritimum extract, Palmaria palmata extract,
Gigartina stellata extract,
Greentech
Paroxite Ltd.
John Woodruff©
Spring 2009

Feature: New Actives SPC Summer 2009
John Woodruff
Pilisoft
Gymnema sylvestre leaf extract
Laboratoires
Serobiologiques
Cognis/Kemcare
Regu-CEA
Spent grain wax, Isomerized linoleic acid, DSM
Behenic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Pentapharm
S. Black
Relifoil 25 / 50 Not revealed
E.U.K. Vegetable
Extracts
Gemro Products
Revit Elix &
RevitElix Nutra
Echium plantagineum seed oil Croda Europe Croda Europe
Rosmarinyl
Glucoside
Rosmarinyl glucoside LibraGen Seppic
Skinasensyl
Laboratoires
Acetyl tetrapeptide-15
LS9749
Serobiologiques
Cognis/Kemcare
Sphingoceryl WS Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed extract
Laboratoires
Serobiologiques
Cognis/Kemcare
SymHelios Benzylidene dimethoxydimethylindanone Symrise Symrise UK
Symtriol
Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylbenzyl
alcohol
Symrise
Symrise UK
SymVital
Tiolisina
Complex 30
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Magnesium
ascorbyl phosphate, Rubus daeus (raspberry)
leaf extract
Lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate, Lysine
thiazolidine carboxylate
Symrise
Sinerga
Symrise UK
Chemlink
Thymulen 4 Acetyl tetrapepetide-2
Unipex
Innovations
IMCD
Trealix Trehalose, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein Sinerga Chemlink
Vitasource Scutellaria baicalensis georgi extract Provital S. Black
Volulip Portulaca pilosa extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide Sederma Croda Europe
John Woodruff
4 th May 2009
www.creative-developments.co.uk
John Woodruff©
Spring 2009