Lesego Malatsi - SouthAfrica.TO

LEFT: MNGOMEZULU'S
DARKIE HAIRCUT LOGOS ARE
REMINDERS OF HIS STREET
FASHION ROOTS
For Mngomezulu, “Darkie” has no
political meaning. Being dark-skinned
is something he was teased about at
school, but he’s creatively transformed
the slur into a symbol of pride, just as
his Afro-comb signature logo recycles
a popular street image, and works as
a reminder of his street fashion roots.
Darkie is the consummate
cultural cut-up artist, recycling
from the past to invent the future.
“I didn’t study fashion design,”
he says, admitting the simplicity
of his design approach: “If I feel it
and I love it, I do it.” He examines
history in an attempt to understand
it, but he doesn’t like being held
back by the past, or by preconceived
notions. He goes with his gut.
for five minutes in any direction
and you’re in a new neighbourhood
with a totally different vibe.”
Mngomezulu enjoys Cape Town’s
slower pace. “It gives you control
over your life. Johannesburg is fast,
full-stop. You have to keep up. But
here you can choose to slow down.”
Not that he finds time to “do
nothing.” Managing a hectic social
schedule is part of his job. “You
have only to witness the pilgrimage
towards Long Street at 6pm on
a Friday. It’s like a migration. A
celebration.” This is where he gathers
clues and creative inspiration for the
stories he tells with his clothing.
Mngomezulu’s own story is
fascinating. Like many South
Africans, he grew up wearing
hand-me-downs - patching and
mending second-hand clothing was
something he did out of need. But he
took necessity to the next level. He’s
turned neckties into skirts, added
curtaining to jackets, sewn shirts and
pants together to create a whole new
garment. Recycling was something he
did before it became cool. That earned
him recognition and he broke into
fashion. And he continues to recycle
vintage and African fabrics. It’s his
way of keeping culture in circulation,
of merging the past with the present.
His brand name is recycled, too.
The Darkie label turns a traditional
pejorative, once used as an insult
for black Africans, on its head.
MELLOW MOMENTS
Find the man behind the Darkie
brand enjoying a mellow moment at
&Union, Bree Street’s after-work social
hub, where craft beers and handmade
garagiste wines are served alongside
real steak sandwiches. When he’s
out at night, Mngomezulu prefers a
place that’s smoke-free and where
the door policy doesn’t dictate how
to dress: “I’m a fashion designer—I
don’t need a bouncer telling me to
wear a collar and tie.” &Union fits
the bill, and is especially lively on
Wednesdays when there’s a line-up
of worth-discovering musicians doing
acoustic sets on the cobbled courtyard.
Unknown Union, 24 Kloof Street, +27 21
422 2843, www.unknownunion.co.za.
&Union, 110 Bree Street, City Centre, +27
21 422 4086, www.andunion.com, open
Mon–Thurs 7am–11pm and
Fri–Sat 7am–midnight.
Black Ram, Tamboerskloof’s
most neighbourly bar, is another
unstuffy place for a sociable drink.
Owner Adam Whiteman didn’t simply
use vintage furniture, he recycled
what he had in his house to get the
authentic old-fashioned pub feel
down perfectly. By day the pub
doubles as The Power and the Glory,
a relaxed café serving dynamite
coffee and locally sourced food.
Black Ram/The Power and the Glory, corner of
Kloof Nek and Burnside roads, Tamboerskloof,
+27 21 422 2108, thepowerandtheglory@
me.com, Mon–Sat 8am–10pm/late.
I N D W E S A F A S H I O N S P E C I A L
32
NOVEMBER 2011 INDWE