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Canada<br />

with Rachel Kenworthy<br />

Rachel Kenworthy<br />

Ontario’s<br />

bubbles are rising<br />

30<br />

Hockey, maple syrup and our humble nature—these are<br />

probably the things that come to mind when you think of<br />

Canada. But it’s time for Canadians to put their modesty to<br />

one side and let the world in on our best-kept secret: Ontario<br />

is quietly producing such world-class sparkling<br />

wines that the Champenois should be shaking<br />

in their proverbial boots.<br />

While Ontario may lack centuries-old<br />

vineyards, the province has an ace<br />

up its sleeve: its Niagara peninsula is<br />

possibly the closest match to the grapegrowing<br />

conditions of Champagne<br />

than anywhere else in the New World.<br />

Bitterly cold winters, met with a grimace<br />

by even the toughest of Canadians, are a<br />

reason to smile among the region’s vintners,<br />

who also enjoy the same limestone-based soils<br />

and grape varieties, including chardonnay<br />

and pinot noir. It’s the cooler climes that are<br />

particularly important, though—the grapes<br />

take longer to ripen, and therefore achieve<br />

wonderfully rich flavour and high acidity, all<br />

of which adds up to a winning formula for<br />

truly exceptional bubbly.<br />

Many of the talented wineries take<br />

advantage of the region’s spectacular<br />

grapes by producing their sparkling<br />

wines in the méthode traditionelle,<br />

which again draws comparisons<br />

to Champagne. In fact, quality is<br />

at the heart of every wine produced<br />

in province. For a wine to even be<br />

labelled as ‘made in Ontario’, it must<br />

not only contain 100 per cent locally<br />

grown grapes, but also adhere to rigorous<br />

Photo Credits: Angels Gate Winery<br />

winemaking standards that are enforced by an independent<br />

authority called the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA). The<br />

notoriously difficult approval process, which includes intensive<br />

laboratory analysis and a blind panel taste test, ensures that you<br />

can expect the highest quality from every drop of wine<br />

you buy from Ontario.<br />

And this hasn’t gone unnoticed by the<br />

province’s seasoned wine drinkers. Last<br />

year, domestic sales of premium VQA<br />

sparkling wine grew by a staggering<br />

59 per cent, according to the Liquor<br />

Control Board of Ontario (LCBO).<br />

Even Ontario’s younger consumers,<br />

aged 18 to 31, have a flourishing appetite<br />

for locally produced wines, according to<br />

Canadian market-research company Abacus<br />

Data. In a 2013 survey, they ranked their region’s<br />

wines as the highest for value worldwide.<br />

In 2014 and beyond, the Ontario government<br />

plans to make it even easier for consumers—both<br />

domestic and international—to choose VQA<br />

wine by investing CA$75 million in a five-year<br />

strategy. It will help wineries to become more<br />

competitive through funding and support,<br />

including enhanced marketing for the<br />

province’s wines, both locally and<br />

globally.<br />

With increased emphasis being put on<br />

exportation, you can expect Ontario<br />

sparkling wines to become more readily<br />

available in Europe and beyond over the<br />

coming years.<br />

@rachelkenworthy champagneslob.com<br />

Meet Handsome Brut<br />

Sparkling personality. Dry wit. At home in pinstripes, equally dapper in denim.<br />

Chilled out and charmingly tasteful. Grab a glass, pop the cork and treat yourself.<br />

You can take this Handsome Brut anywhere.<br />

“My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink enough Champagne,”<br />

said British economist John Maynard Keynes. A wise declaration,<br />

and yet far too many people save fizz for special occasions.<br />

Handsome Brut, a new sparkling wine brand hailing from<br />

Ontario, Canada, is on a mission to prove that bubbles are the<br />

perfect tipple—for any occasion. From a casual backyard barbecue<br />

to a glamorous black-tie event, the brand showcases that sparkling<br />

wines are perfect served on their own, paired with food or even<br />

mixed in a cocktail. With a sleek, masculine bottle complemented<br />

by a tongue-in-cheek name, Handsome Brut aims to attract a new<br />

demographic of sparkling wine drinkers—including men.<br />

But don’t let the friendly demeanour fool you—quality and<br />

heritage are at the heart of Handsome Brut. Produced with 100%<br />

Ontario Chardonnay grapes in the méthode traditionelle, this<br />

VQA-approved wine is aged for two years at the locally revered<br />

Angel’s Gate Winery in the Niagara region.<br />

Tasting notes<br />

A complex nose—pear, red apple and a toasty note—comes from<br />

the more than two years sur lie. Finely textured bubbles are crisp<br />

and refreshing. The acidity is balanced against a backbone of ripe<br />

tree fruits, which include peach, apple, lemon and a touch of<br />

grapefruit. The wine finishes dry and with excellent length.<br />

handsomebrut.com<br />

@areyouhandsome<br />

31

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