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Gemini Owners Manual.pub - Gemini Gems

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<strong>Gemini</strong> 105Mc Owner’s <strong>Manual</strong><br />

Design Considerations<br />

window slider.<br />

Construction<br />

In comparison to any other cruising sailboat with<br />

the same accommodation, the <strong>Gemini</strong> is faster,<br />

lighter, has less sail area, draws less water, and<br />

sails more upright. Performance Cruising has built<br />

more than 800 <strong>Gemini</strong>’s and is constantly refining<br />

the product and manufacturing techniques. As<br />

such, Performance Cruising builds a 34' catamaran<br />

more cost effectively than any other sailboat factory<br />

can build a sailboat of similar accommodation.<br />

The conventional monohull has a fixed keel, fixed<br />

rudders, and fixed inboard diesel. This simplicity<br />

makes the boat easier to build and less expensive.<br />

The cheap cast iron keel is the low cost solution to<br />

turning an unstable single hull into a sailboat with a<br />

mast and sails that are trying to tip it over. The<br />

draw back to this keel is deep draft and weight. A<br />

heavy boat needs more sail and a larger engine.<br />

Most people think the keel is a weight hanging under<br />

the boat trying to pull it upright. Unfortunately,<br />

with the keel weighing, say 5,000 lbs., and the<br />

loaded hull weighing 11,000 lb., the point at which<br />

all this weight can be assumed to act to bring the<br />

boat upright (the center of gravity), is near the<br />

water line and not several feet under the boat. This<br />

makes for a boat that will tip easily and is very uncomfortable.<br />

The modern fast monohull has a very deep keel<br />

with a bulb, a high-tech light hull, and wide beam.<br />

Interior Molds<br />

The <strong>Gemini</strong> 105Mc advanced construction includes a<br />

single interior mold encompassing the area from<br />

stem to stern and port to starboard. This interior<br />

mold is unique to the entire multihull industry and<br />

provides a multitude of benefits including enormous<br />

weight savings as well as incredible strength. The<br />

interior mold is built with a wiring harness which<br />

includes 110 volt wires, hoses, and conduit for electronics<br />

glassed in before it is structurally glassed in<br />

to the hull. There are also several small accent<br />

molds.<br />

The roof mold is rather light and has 12 volt wire<br />

glassed into position before it is glassed to the<br />

deck. This mold has cutouts to facilitate bolting on<br />

genoa tracks, winches and cabin lights. This mold<br />

also has a glassed in flange to take the main bulkhead.<br />

The refrigerator mold is 7' wide and high and covers<br />

the main cockpit bulkhead. This mold has a box<br />

to enclose the refrigerator and another box for storage<br />

or an air conditioner. This mold is glassed into<br />

position and ensures that the refrigerator vents to<br />

the outside. This mold also has the grooves for the<br />

Sails and Sailing<br />

Copyright © 2004 Performance Cruising Inc.<br />

The aft cabin walls are large molds that stand vertical<br />

to separate the aft cabin. They are bolted into<br />

place after the hull and deck have been bonded.<br />

Buoyancy Tanks<br />

The <strong>Gemini</strong> has (4) four buoyancy tanks situated in<br />

each corner of the boat. These buoyancy tanks are<br />

not designed to float the whole boat but to stop a<br />

holed hull from going down too far and allowing<br />

water to flood across to the other hull and capsize<br />

the boat.<br />

These buoyancy tanks are air filled tanks, but are<br />

not guaranteed as fully airtight. They should be inspected<br />

periodically to make sure they are dry.<br />

Each tank has an opening inspection port. In the<br />

head, the port is located directly behind the toilet<br />

plumbing. In the aft cabins, the port is located on<br />

the aft cabin stern wall. In the master cabin, the<br />

port is located under the carpeting in the large forward<br />

storage locker.<br />

For offshore use, it is advisable to fill the tanks<br />

with either airtight plastic bottles or Styrofoam<br />

chips contained in netting (to make removal easier).<br />

The inside of the tank should be accessible to test<br />

for leaks. As such, it is not advisable to fill the<br />

tanks with permanent foam or any material that<br />

cannot be easily removed.<br />

Leaks<br />

If a leak is detected, first taste the water to see if it<br />

is salty. If it is fresh, the leak is either water from<br />

the water tanks or a topside leak from rain. If it is<br />

salty then it is a hull leak.<br />

The best way to find a hull leak is to completely dry<br />

the bilge and look for telltale trickles of water. It<br />

may be necessary to dry the bilge repeatedly because<br />

the first telltale trickle could be from water<br />

trapped behind a bulkhead. The leaks are almost<br />

certainly from a through-hull fitting, so be sure to<br />

check<br />

• Speedo<br />

• Depth sounder<br />

• Toilet through hulls<br />

• Centerboard pivot<br />

• Engine water inlet<br />

• Air Conditioning inlet<br />

A boat in rough seas could have a leak from up high<br />

such, as the gunwale joint, sail locker, anchor<br />

locker, or deck fittings.<br />

32

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