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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
zadar<br />
Summer 2011<br />
<strong>Broad</strong> <strong>horizons</strong><br />
Concerts and culture <strong>to</strong> gladden<br />
the heart and move the soul<br />
<strong>Back</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>nature</strong><br />
Zadar County‘s best spots for<br />
fishing and birdwatching<br />
N°8 - complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten<br />
series of guidebooks.”<br />
The New York Times
Contents<br />
3<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Zadar 5<br />
Wherefore beer?<br />
Basics 6<br />
Tricks, tariffs and smoking<br />
His<strong>to</strong>ry 7<br />
Zadar districts 9<br />
Culture & Events 10<br />
Everything that´s on in Zadar<br />
Where <strong>to</strong> Stay 20<br />
Hole up for the night in style (or disrepair)<br />
Restaurants 23<br />
Food goes in your tummy. Mmmmm.<br />
Cafés 29<br />
Where <strong>to</strong> sit and sip<br />
Nightlife 30<br />
Shake your thang<br />
What <strong>to</strong> See 33<br />
Eyes front!<br />
Look behind those pretty facades and you’ll discover cool,<br />
atmospheric places and cultural treasures.<br />
Mail & Phones 40<br />
21st century smoke signals<br />
Getting Around 42<br />
All dressed up and somewhere <strong>to</strong> go?<br />
Sport 45<br />
Climbing, diving and mountain biking<br />
Shopping 48<br />
We´ll help you get rid of that extra cash<br />
Business Direc<strong>to</strong>ry 50<br />
Lifestyle Direc<strong>to</strong>ry 51<br />
Birdwatching in Croatia 52<br />
Fishing on the Adriatic 55<br />
Sun. Sea, Fab scenery. Great festivals and parties... Come<br />
on people, what more could you want?<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar County 57<br />
Maps & Index<br />
County map 69<br />
City map/Street index 70<br />
City centre map 72<br />
Country map 74<br />
Summer 2011
4 Foreword<br />
Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another<br />
sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew<br />
has worked day and night <strong>to</strong> gather all of the latest in where<br />
<strong>to</strong> be and what <strong>to</strong> do. We have something for everyone! A<br />
comprehensive guide <strong>to</strong> the city’s architectural monuments<br />
will dazzle sightseers, not <strong>to</strong> mention our special on the<br />
ancient fortresses that were built in defending this gem of a<br />
city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated <strong>to</strong> some of the finest<br />
national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an<br />
adrenalin rush, can fill their calendars with adventure sports<br />
throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay<br />
along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the<br />
gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés<br />
and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful<br />
tips in choosing where <strong>to</strong> nibble and dine. We wish you all a<br />
sensational summer!<br />
Guides in an instant...<br />
Did you know you can download free<br />
instant guides <strong>to</strong> many of our In Your<br />
Pocket destinations? They’re 12-page<br />
versions featuring a careful selection<br />
of hotels, restaurants and other useful<br />
information. Simply go <strong>to</strong> our international<br />
homepage, www.inyourpocket.com. You’ll see a banner<br />
at the <strong>to</strong>p “Download instant guides”. Click on it, and a<br />
new page will open up. Choose the city you want, click<br />
and print! You’re ready <strong>to</strong> go!<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
Draškovićeva 66<br />
Croatia<br />
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70<br />
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1334-9228<br />
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.<br />
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja<br />
Cover The Musical Evenings in St<br />
Donatus Church<br />
Edi<strong>to</strong>rial<br />
Edi<strong>to</strong>r Višnja Arambašić<br />
Assistant Edi<strong>to</strong>r Kristina Kovač<br />
Contribu<strong>to</strong>rs Nataly Anderson, Frank<br />
Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan<br />
Bousfield<br />
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka<br />
Valić<br />
Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan<br />
Karabogdan, Maja Vidović<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s Zadar In Your Pocket team,<br />
Tourist Board Zadar, TZ Dugi O<strong>to</strong>k,<br />
Stjepan Felber, Robert Marnika,<br />
Stipe Surać, Darko Posavec, National<br />
Museum Zadar<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General Manager Višnja Arambašić<br />
Sales & Circulation Manager<br />
Kristijan Vukičević<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
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By boat<br />
Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why<br />
waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning<br />
yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go<br />
by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is<br />
spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula.<br />
All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive<br />
wall you see there.<br />
Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona<br />
(Italy) almost every day. See the “Getting around” section for<br />
contact details for schedules and all ticket sales.<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
A Greeting <strong>to</strong> the Sun – an urban installation consisting<br />
of 300 multilayered glass floorboards with a circular<br />
diameter of 22 meters along the waterfront. Pho<strong>to</strong><br />
powered solar modules absorb sunlight during the day<br />
which produce a light spectacle synchronised with the<br />
rhythm of the waves and the sounds of the Sea Organ.<br />
By bus<br />
Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 060<br />
305 305. Bus travel is the preferred method of public<br />
transportation for earthbound Croatians, because it remains,<br />
for the time being, the quickest and most comfortable way of<br />
getting around the country. Prices are reasonable: a single<br />
ticket <strong>to</strong> Zagreb costs around 125kn. There are frequent links<br />
<strong>to</strong> all Croatian cities and, especially in high season, abroad.<br />
The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old<br />
Town heading <strong>to</strong>wards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the<br />
bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub<br />
and has everything you need. Left luggage: the garderoba<br />
is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 <strong>to</strong> 22:00 and costs<br />
2.20kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face<br />
the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the<br />
platforms and in front of the building. Shops and cafes: At<br />
least one snack bar works all night, and news kiosks, bakeries<br />
and a mini-market are all open from about 06:00 <strong>to</strong> 22:00,<br />
except weekends, when they may close earlier. There are<br />
several cafes where you can take the weight off until your<br />
connection arrives. Getting <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn: On the road in front of<br />
the bus station are bus s<strong>to</strong>ps for the local lines which take<br />
you <strong>to</strong> the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 8kn<br />
ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 13kn<br />
ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat<br />
07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.<br />
By car<br />
The A1 mo<strong>to</strong>rway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a<br />
complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is<br />
the first port of call, and the mo<strong>to</strong>rway continues past all the<br />
major resorts on the way <strong>to</strong> Split and beyond. Journey time<br />
between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending<br />
on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at<br />
weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at mo<strong>to</strong>rway<br />
ArrivING in ZADAR<br />
<strong>to</strong>ll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal<br />
resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling<br />
at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the<br />
evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian mo<strong>to</strong>rways - most<br />
currencies are accepted.<br />
If a strong “bura”, a northeast wind, is blowing, the mo<strong>to</strong>rway<br />
bridge closes. This rarely happens in the summer, but if it<br />
does, you can now use the reopened Maslenica bridge, which<br />
was destroyed in the war. It’s far more sheltered from these<br />
winds. Take the old road <strong>to</strong> Maslenica which runs parallel <strong>to</strong><br />
the mo<strong>to</strong>rway.<br />
For up <strong>to</strong> date traffic information, check out the Croatian<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>mobile Club website at www.hak.hr. They have regular<br />
updates in English, German and Italian. Also listen out for<br />
foreign language reports for <strong>to</strong>urists on local radio.<br />
By plane<br />
Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar, flight info tel. 20 58<br />
00. www.zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in<br />
Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money:<br />
OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange<br />
service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at<br />
a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city<br />
bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old<br />
Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised <strong>to</strong> connect with the<br />
flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.<br />
By train<br />
Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info<br />
line: 060 333 444, www.hznet.hr. The train station is<br />
right next <strong>to</strong> the bus station. Somehow, transport planners<br />
failed <strong>to</strong> integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means<br />
that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible<br />
but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than<br />
travel by bus. The fastest connections leave Zagreb for Zadar<br />
at 12:15 throughout the <strong>to</strong>urist season. Journey time is about<br />
7½ hours, involving a change at Knin. Full price adult fares<br />
are 167 - 177kn single and 267 - 283kn return - considerably<br />
more expensive than the slow train, but much faster. Or you<br />
can load your car on<strong>to</strong> the sleeper for Split and drive on from<br />
Knin. There are several trains per day between Zagreb and<br />
Split, taking anything between 5 and 9 hours, with a change<br />
at Knin. A single ticket costs about 90kn.<br />
The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since<br />
you are next door <strong>to</strong> the bus station, you can make use of<br />
all the services available there. The ticket office is open<br />
07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets<br />
can be bought on board the trains. A kiosk outside the main<br />
entrance works from 06:00 <strong>to</strong> about 21:00. Getting <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>to</strong>wn: see “By bus”.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Tourist Information Centre D-3,<br />
Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61<br />
66, info@tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar.<br />
hr. Q July - September 30 Open 08:00<br />
-24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00.<br />
Zadar County Tourist Board A-3, Sv.Leopolda<br />
Mandića, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31<br />
51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr. QOpen<br />
07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Zadar Tourist Board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzgzadar@zd.t-com.hr,<br />
www.tzzadar.hr. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
5<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
6 basics<br />
His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
7<br />
Basic data<br />
Population:<br />
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460<br />
Zadar County: 162,045<br />
Zadar (April 2001): 72,718<br />
Terri<strong>to</strong>ry: Croatia’s land terri<strong>to</strong>ry takes up 56,542km2.<br />
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro,<br />
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border<br />
with Italy.<br />
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main <strong>to</strong>urist attraction<br />
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some<br />
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named<br />
some of its most pure!<br />
Zadar County: Zadar County measures 7,854km2, of<br />
which roughly half is sea. The islands belonging <strong>to</strong> Zadar<br />
County measure 580km2.<br />
Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the coast, 47<br />
of them inhabited.<br />
Climate: Mediterranean<br />
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European<br />
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zadar it is 12:00<br />
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in<br />
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.<br />
Climate<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
-20 J F M A M J J A S O<br />
Emergency number 112<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Robert Marnika<br />
Police 192<br />
Fire department 93<br />
Ambulance 94<br />
Coast guard 9155<br />
Rainfall, mm<br />
100<br />
N<br />
D<br />
75<br />
50<br />
25<br />
0<br />
Cus<strong>to</strong>ms<br />
All major items brought in<strong>to</strong> the country (lap<strong>to</strong>ps, boats, sauna<br />
equipment) must be declared; <strong>to</strong> do so ensures you will be<br />
allowed <strong>to</strong> take them back when you leave. Keep receipts<br />
in order <strong>to</strong> qualify for a VAT refund at all border cus<strong>to</strong>ms<br />
offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export<br />
approval before purchase. For further details www.carina.hr<br />
or call +385-1 610 23 25/610 24 61.<br />
Electricity<br />
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visi<strong>to</strong>rs from the<br />
United States will need <strong>to</strong> use a transformer <strong>to</strong> run electrical<br />
appliances.<br />
Roads<br />
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% alcohol rule applies <strong>to</strong><br />
you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0,5% applies<br />
<strong>to</strong> you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it <strong>to</strong><br />
others <strong>to</strong> debate the pros and cons of this change, but given<br />
the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably<br />
save lives. And the police are enforcing it.<br />
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol<br />
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway<br />
and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the<br />
mo<strong>to</strong>rways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless<br />
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph<br />
on highways.<br />
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are s<strong>to</strong>pped<br />
for any reason, you will be expected <strong>to</strong> show your driving<br />
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,<br />
so make sure <strong>to</strong> always keep them with you.<br />
Money<br />
The unit of currency is the kuna (kn) - most places are not<br />
able <strong>to</strong> accept foreign currency. Kuna notes come in 5,<br />
10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000kn denominations,<br />
and coins in 1, 2, 5 and 25 kuna. The kuna is divided in<strong>to</strong><br />
100 lipa. 50, 20, 10, 5 and even worse-than-useless 2<br />
lipa coins exist.<br />
You can exchange money in banks and private ex change<br />
bu reaux. Bank ATMs are <strong>to</strong> be found in most <strong>to</strong>wns - but<br />
don’t rely on this in small island villages. Credit cards are<br />
commonly accepted, with the ex ception of smaller restau<br />
rants, shops and guest houses - check in advance.<br />
National holidays<br />
January 1<br />
January 6<br />
April 8 2012<br />
April 9 2012<br />
May 1<br />
June 7 2012<br />
June 22<br />
June 25<br />
August 5<br />
August 15<br />
Oc<strong>to</strong>ber 8<br />
November 1<br />
December 25<br />
December 26<br />
New Year’s Day<br />
Epiphany<br />
Easter<br />
Easter Monday<br />
International Workers' Day<br />
Corpus Christi<br />
Anti Fascist Resistance Day<br />
Statehood Day<br />
Vic<strong>to</strong>ry and Homeland<br />
Thanksgiving Day<br />
Feast of the Assumption<br />
Independence Day<br />
All Saints’ Day<br />
Christmas<br />
Saint Stephen’s Day<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Forced <strong>to</strong> turn their attention seawards, the inhabitants of<br />
Zadar focused on shipping, and the city became a naval power<br />
<strong>to</strong> rival Venice. It was around this time that rebuilding began<br />
<strong>to</strong> take place. For example, at this time (the 9th century AD),<br />
St. Donatus’ Church was built.<br />
Meanwhile, the Croatian state was forming inland, and trade<br />
and political links with Zadar began <strong>to</strong> develop. Croatian<br />
settlers began <strong>to</strong> arrive, becoming commonplace by the 10th<br />
Century. Zadar sought independence from Byzantium, and<br />
in 1069 was joined by treaty <strong>to</strong> Croatia under Croatian King<br />
Petar Krešimir IV. In 1102, the Croatian-Hungarian state was<br />
formed, and in 1105 Zadar officially recognised the authority<br />
of the Croatian-Hungarian kings.<br />
The rivalry with Venice intensified, and at the end of the first<br />
millenium the Venetians began a series of onslaughts and<br />
occupations that were <strong>to</strong> last over three hundred years. In<br />
1202 the Venetians launched a particularly bitter attack with<br />
the help of the Crusaders, whom the Venetian Doge used in<br />
his march <strong>to</strong>wards Palestine. This ended in 1358, when, in a<br />
peace treaty concluded in the Franciscan church, Zadar was<br />
handed over <strong>to</strong> the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King<br />
Ludwig I of Anjou.<br />
Despite all this violence, between the 11th and the 14th<br />
century a golden age of art and culture was nurtured behind<br />
the protective walls encircling the city. Zadar still played<br />
a key role in the administration of Dalmatia, and enjoyed<br />
growth in political and commercial life. Architecture dating<br />
back <strong>to</strong> this time includes the Cathedral of St. Anastasia,<br />
and many other churches, monasteries, convents, palaces<br />
and public buildings.<br />
Looking for more? zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
8 His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
ZADAR DISTRICTs<br />
9<br />
Become a fan of Zadar<br />
In Your Pocket on<br />
In the 15th century, internal fights within the Croatian-<br />
Hungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia,<br />
and Zadar, <strong>to</strong>gether with much of the surrounding mainland<br />
and islands, were sold <strong>to</strong> Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although<br />
there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar<br />
remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main<br />
port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued -<br />
this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.<br />
In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and<br />
Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by<br />
the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress<br />
in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and<br />
culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague,<br />
however, ravaged the city.<br />
In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling<br />
the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated<br />
Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached <strong>to</strong><br />
the Hapsburg Empire, only <strong>to</strong> be handed back <strong>to</strong> the French in<br />
1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social<br />
reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the<br />
Austrians <strong>to</strong>ok the city back again in 1813.<br />
The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next<br />
hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways<br />
progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved,<br />
and the first modern city water system was completed in<br />
1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of<br />
national identity, began <strong>to</strong> press for linguistic and political<br />
au<strong>to</strong>nomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded<br />
in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer<br />
fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled,<br />
giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade.<br />
Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In<br />
1898 Zadar was connected <strong>to</strong> the electricity grid - the first<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn in what is now Croatia.<br />
In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the<br />
1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of<br />
Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast,<br />
including Zadar, <strong>to</strong> the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar<br />
remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the<br />
Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, <strong>to</strong> become<br />
part of Ti<strong>to</strong>’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they<br />
bombed 65 percent of the city <strong>to</strong> ruins.<br />
However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of<br />
rebuilding <strong>to</strong>ok place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica<br />
(or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />
date back <strong>to</strong> this time. Industry developed and the population<br />
expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the<br />
1960s, the importance of <strong>to</strong>urism grew.<br />
Relative peace and prosperity began <strong>to</strong> fall apart during<br />
the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the<br />
Socialist bloc led <strong>to</strong> national unrest. Croatia found itself in<br />
an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and<br />
Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile<br />
Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of<br />
1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and<br />
bombarded from positions further afield for most of the<br />
duration of the war. The population was forced underground,<br />
surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.<br />
Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding<br />
is now taking place in every sense.<br />
Arbanasi<br />
Arbanasi lies just <strong>to</strong> the north of Kolovare. It’s an old<br />
district where remnants of Neolithic settlements can still<br />
be found, as well as parts of the Roman aqueduct built <strong>to</strong><br />
bring water <strong>to</strong> the city from Vransko lake 40km away, and a<br />
Roman necropolis in the grounds of the <strong>to</strong>bacco fac<strong>to</strong>ry (still<br />
working). Arbanasi was once a settlement in its own right.<br />
It gained its name and its importance in the 18th century<br />
when migrants from Albania settled there after fleeing from<br />
the Turks. Today’s Arbanasi has a gentle, village feel. The<br />
atmosphere is quite different from the rest of the city. It’s<br />
worth a wander round <strong>to</strong> see how people live day by day away<br />
from the <strong>to</strong>urist hubbub.<br />
Borik and Diklo<br />
A large complex of hotels and a campsite have evolved at<br />
Borik, which have managed not <strong>to</strong> overwhelm the forces<br />
of <strong>nature</strong>, so it’s still one of the most popular places for<br />
<strong>to</strong>urists and locals alike <strong>to</strong> spend time at the beach. An<br />
ever-growing number of cafes, bars and restaurants is<br />
springing up <strong>to</strong> cater for the rising number of visi<strong>to</strong>rs, and<br />
quite a bit of renovation is taking place at the moment, so<br />
facilities are ever improving. Heading west from Borik is a<br />
beach-lined coastal path studded with places <strong>to</strong> eat and<br />
drink, surrounded by ever more peaceful residential areas<br />
and the beach area of Diklo. It’s a quieter place <strong>to</strong> stay, <strong>to</strong><br />
relax and bathe.<br />
Borik<br />
Kolovare<br />
Directly east of the Old Town peninsula is Kolovare, a genteel<br />
district of beachside villas. Kolovare’s seafront is the old <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
beach as well, and a popular place <strong>to</strong> spend free time. You<br />
can walk all the way along the beatifically-named coast path<br />
(Karma) <strong>to</strong> the promon<strong>to</strong>ry at Punta Bajlo and the adjoining<br />
islet Sveti Klement, a former leper colony that is now a<br />
bathing spot (eeew!) The way is tree-lined, so shady by day,<br />
and punctuated by cafes. Near the beginning of the walk is<br />
the Fontana, an attractive 16th century well with a cupola,<br />
built by the Venetians for use by their naval fleets.<br />
Old Town peninsula<br />
It goes without saying, it’s the heart and soul of the city.<br />
Crowded on<strong>to</strong> the peninsula, fortified in its entireity but<br />
eternally under attack by foes through the ages, parts of<br />
the city have been destroyed and rebuilt so many times over<br />
three millennia that few places on Earth can rival it for its<br />
eclectic mix of architecture.<br />
As well as the dizzying number of churches, monasteries and<br />
his<strong>to</strong>rical monuments, it’s also the commercial centre, with<br />
an ever-increasing choice of boutiques and galleries, and,<br />
of course, it’s the centre of social life and cafe society. The<br />
main shopping street Široka (known locally as Kalelarga)<br />
is a busy thoroughfare for people with things <strong>to</strong> do, even if<br />
that’s only strolling in good company. In summer it’s crowded<br />
with pavement cafes. It’s surrounded by shady parks on <strong>to</strong>p<br />
of the ancient fortifications. The outer promenade beyond<br />
the ferry port, known as the Riva, is a relaxed place <strong>to</strong> stroll<br />
and swim.<br />
Puntamika<br />
An area with quite some his<strong>to</strong>ry dating back <strong>to</strong> Neolithic<br />
settlements. It was an important defensive point because<br />
geographically it guards the shipping entrance <strong>to</strong> the old <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
- that’s why the city lighthouse is here. The coastal road is<br />
bustling in summer, with cafes, restaurants and a marina.<br />
Relja<br />
Relja is just north-east of the peninsula. Notice, as you walk<br />
northwards, some older builings. They are called Talijanke<br />
(“the Italian girls”) because they were built during the times<br />
the Italians ruled Zadar. Though somewhat unremarkable<br />
from the outside, they are architecturally important with<br />
twisting stairwells and pleasant courtyards. Relja now<br />
has a shiny new indoor shopping centre full of boutiques<br />
and cafes.<br />
Voštarnica, Brodarica<br />
Just over the footbridge and heading west, these districts<br />
still constitute the commercial and residential heart of the<br />
city. Continue a little further north and you’ll come <strong>to</strong> a<br />
neighbourhood known as SAS after a former fac<strong>to</strong>ry, and<br />
you’ll find the Gotham entertainment complex with its club,<br />
cafe and cinema next <strong>to</strong> the Nova Banka <strong>to</strong>wer.<br />
…Zadar created basketball<br />
Croatians, giants as they are, are both accomplished<br />
players and passionate followers of basketball (here<br />
called košarka). Much as they love <strong>to</strong> follow the progress<br />
of their tennis stars on the circuit and their footballing<br />
heroes in the big European clubs, so they watch their countrymen<br />
take on the best in the NBA, whilst netting huge<br />
amounts of cash, model girlfriends and eventual hamstring<br />
injuries. Krešimir Ćosić is perhaps Zadar’s bestknown<br />
player – a mammoth statue in his image stands<br />
guard over the entrance <strong>to</strong><br />
the Old Town, basketball<br />
held in meditative awe. He<br />
was the first European in<br />
the NBA. This June, the<br />
city (understandably)<br />
went crazy when Zadar<br />
beat Zagreb team Cibona<br />
<strong>to</strong> win the Croatian<br />
league for the first time<br />
in 19 years.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
10 Culture & Events<br />
Culture & Events<br />
11<br />
Classical Music Concerts<br />
15.07 Friday<br />
Split String Quartet<br />
St Jerolim’s Church, Ugljan, Island Ugljan. The string<br />
quartet is one of the most featured chamber ensembles in<br />
classical music. This young musical ensemble was founded<br />
in 2005 and is made up of experienced chamber musicians<br />
from Split’s musical circles. The members are Valter Lovričević<br />
(violin), Ana Tošić (violin), Igor Smoday (viola) and Mihovil<br />
Karuza (cello). Concert starts at 20:30<br />
Club Nights<br />
08.07 Friday<br />
Armin Van Buuren<br />
Papaya, Novalja, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya.<br />
com.hr. DJ Mag has voted Van Buuren as the number one DJ<br />
in the world for the third year running. That same DJ is playing<br />
in Croatia at the audacious Papaya Club for the third year in a<br />
row. Hmmm isn’t that odd? It must be for good reason then…<br />
A must see exclusive event with the Lord of Trance pelting<br />
out his hits and giving his audiences that uncontrollable urge<br />
<strong>to</strong> move and jump in the air - with devotion. Show starts at<br />
23:00. Q Tickets 150kn.<br />
04.08 Thursday<br />
Gareth Emery - Dance Republic<br />
Papaya, Novalja, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya.<br />
com.hr. This Southamp<strong>to</strong>n trance DJ is a whizz on the<br />
turntables and is able <strong>to</strong> produce a high-energy tempo yet<br />
incorporate smooth instrumental tunes <strong>to</strong> balance the pace<br />
for members on the dance floor fraternity. Named 7th best<br />
DJ in DJ Mag’s Top 100, Emery is emerging as a global star of<br />
trance music. Show starts at 20:00. Q Tickets 150kn.<br />
Zvonko Kucelin<br />
Exhibitions<br />
07.12 Tuesday - 08.12 Saturday<br />
Flora and Fauna of the Adriatic<br />
C-2, National Museum Zadar - Natural his<strong>to</strong>ry department,<br />
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51.<br />
Who says you need <strong>to</strong> get wet in order <strong>to</strong> see what is under<br />
the sea? This exhibit systematically presents its plants and<br />
animals from microscopic flora and fauna through <strong>to</strong> the<br />
Adriatic’s largest sharks and sea turtles. The exhibition will<br />
showcase 512 items with 52 pho<strong>to</strong>graphs and 460 animal<br />
or plant samples. Educational and <strong>to</strong>ps for all ages! Q<br />
Admission 5 - 15kn.<br />
02.05 Monday - 02.08 Tuesday<br />
Gnalić - The Treasures from a Sunken Ship<br />
C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra<br />
III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Ahoy matey! See the true<br />
discovery of a 16th century merchant ship that was found 30<br />
meters below sea level in 1967, near the island of Gnalić. The<br />
cargo on board included bronzed cannons with Venetian and<br />
French coats of arms, a huge anchor, decorative objects such<br />
as glasses and chandeliers that all point <strong>to</strong> famous Murano<br />
glass workshops as well as ceramic dishes, silk cloth, needles,<br />
copper plates and more. Q Admission 10 - 15Kn.<br />
Ljerka Njerš Art Glass<br />
15.05 Sunday - 15.07 Friday<br />
Ljerka Njerš Art Glass<br />
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog<br />
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.<br />
hr. Imagine working with glass requiring 800 degrees for<br />
a thermal finish. This is what Njerš does and she is one<br />
of Croatia’s finest ceramicists having studied at the most<br />
prestigious ceramic, porcelain and lithography workshops<br />
from Lisbon <strong>to</strong> London. Her glass art work generates light<br />
and embraces all of her previous craftsmanship in ceramics<br />
and tapestry. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.<br />
17.05 Tuesday - 10.06 Friday<br />
Awarded Croatian Architecture 90 - 09<br />
D-3, Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača), Poljana Šime<br />
Budinića bb. Interested in design and construction? See a<br />
showcase of our national award winning architecture over the<br />
last 20 years through the pho<strong>to</strong>graphs of Miljenko Bernfest.<br />
He portrays the present day condition of previously awarded<br />
projects and depicts not only architecture, but the ways in<br />
which buildings age and change. Just as we do.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
12 Culture & Events<br />
Culture & Events<br />
13<br />
Quadruple hook embroidery on worsted is typical of<br />
women’s folk costume in Northern Dalmatia. The most<br />
common pattern is a cross combined with ornaments such<br />
as knots, rings, tendrils, rosettes and spirals.<br />
18.05 Wednesday - 30.06 Thursday<br />
From the Cosmacendi Palace <strong>to</strong> the Museum<br />
of Ancient Glass<br />
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog<br />
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33. The former Classicist<br />
Cosmacendi Palace dates from the late 19th century and has<br />
been completely renovated whilst regaining its original façade.<br />
This exhibition presents the his<strong>to</strong>ry of the Moro bastion on<br />
which the Cosmacendi Palace was built in 1877.<br />
The Museum of Ancient Glass contains 4000 glass objects<br />
dating from the period between the 1st and 5th century, the<br />
early Roman Empire and Late Classical period. The artefacts<br />
derive from the broader Zadar area and from the whole of<br />
Croatia. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.<br />
20.05 Friday - 01.07 Friday<br />
Zadar Pho<strong>to</strong>graphers<br />
A-3, Arsenal, Tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.<br />
The exhibition shows motifs and pho<strong>to</strong>s as donated by the<br />
Zadar Public Museum and Zadar pho<strong>to</strong>graphers. Viewers can<br />
see pho<strong>to</strong>s from different generations: including Pero Gojić,<br />
Abdulah Seferović, Vicko Zaninović and others. The Damaged<br />
Hearing Sense Association, founded in 1955, wishes <strong>to</strong> inform<br />
the public about their work through this exhibition.<br />
07.06 Tuesday - 21.06 Tuesday<br />
Islands’ Pho<strong>to</strong>graphers<br />
B-3, Terre Verte Gallery, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 25 00 40. So you cannot get <strong>to</strong> all the 1246 Croatian<br />
islands, who can? This traditional exhibition just may help<br />
as the Kornati Pho<strong>to</strong> Club annually present their works,<br />
depictions of <strong>to</strong>wns, boats and landscapes of islands and<br />
the sea.<br />
07.06 Tuesday - 26.06 Sunday<br />
Miljenko Domijan: Terra Toscana<br />
D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. See Florence and its<br />
surroundings like never before as Croatia’s leading<br />
conserva<strong>to</strong>ire presents his impressions and collages of<br />
this majestic region. Of special interest are the small hills,<br />
vegetation and Mediterranean architecture he was able <strong>to</strong><br />
capture! This is the 3rd cycle which can be seen this summer.<br />
Q Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
13.06 Monday - 24.06 Friday<br />
A pho<strong>to</strong> exhibition of Varoš- then and now<br />
L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30<br />
11 03. St. Peter is said <strong>to</strong> have the keys <strong>to</strong> heaven, and when<br />
looking at the foundations of the former St. Mary’s Church in<br />
Zadar from a bird’s eye view, a perfect blueprint of a 6 leafed<br />
key can be seen. Legend has it that is resembles the keys of<br />
St. Peter. This exhibit presents 80 pho<strong>to</strong>s of the former city<br />
gate of S<strong>to</strong>marica and ruins of St. Mary’s Church.<br />
16.06 Thursday - 30.06 Thursday<br />
Branka Riđicki<br />
D-3, Kapetanova kula (The Captain’s Tower Gallery),<br />
Trg 5 bunara bb. Local born artist who through her travels<br />
and studies presents some of her works in painting, media,<br />
pho<strong>to</strong>graphy and film. She has developed an interest in<br />
different cultures which can thoughtfully be seen through<br />
her art.<br />
28.06 Tuesday - 12.07 Tuesday<br />
A pho<strong>to</strong> exhibition of Zadar County<br />
D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime bb. Want <strong>to</strong> see more<br />
of Zadar but you can’t? Want a true souvenir but you can’t find<br />
one? Then this exhibit brings the best of Zadar <strong>to</strong> you! See<br />
the county’s unspoilt countryside over and above its cultural<br />
and traditional beauty. A great gift is the monograph available<br />
with over 200 pages of pho<strong>to</strong>graphs and information. Q<br />
Admission 10kn.<br />
01.07 Friday - 30.08 Tuesday<br />
Exhibition by the HDLU members Zadar<br />
D-3, Kapetanova kula (The Captain’s Tower Gallery),Trg<br />
5 bunara bb. These are the yearly and latest works by<br />
members of HDLU Zadar (Croatian Society of Fine Artists).<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
The Museum of Ancient Glass – situated in the<br />
Cosmacendi Palace<br />
“Little Red Riding Hood” was the first performance of<br />
the Zadar Puppet Theatre in 1951. This year the theatre<br />
celebrates 60 years of work and gets a new building in<strong>to</strong><br />
the bargain. You can see the theatre’s work during the<br />
Zadar Summer Theatre on 4 July at 21.30 in Dt Dominik’s<br />
Church, when there will be a performance of Miroslav<br />
Krleža’s Michelangelo Buonarotti.<br />
18.07 Monday - 02.08 Tuesday<br />
Dalibor Rubido<br />
B-3, Terre Verte Gallery, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 25 00 40. Water in its purest form is the essence of<br />
Dalibor Rubido’s artistic expression. As the best graduate<br />
in his year from the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb, he <strong>to</strong>o<br />
was a rower, and an active athlete. Despite not partaking in<br />
such activities as often now, his artwork continues <strong>to</strong> show<br />
his love and passion for water.<br />
18.07 Monday - 18.08 Thursday<br />
Predrag Petrović - The Ceramics and Glass of<br />
the island of Iž<br />
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog<br />
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr.<br />
Meet a man who has been working as a potter for 23 years<br />
and presents the making of traditional ceramics with glass.<br />
Petrović mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is<br />
now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has<br />
been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature<br />
of Iž pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on<br />
leather and baking it on an open fire. Its preparations last for<br />
days. And who could ever forget the old pottery wheel which<br />
has been long abandoned in other places? Q Admission<br />
10 - 30kn.<br />
08.08 Monday - 01.09 Thursday<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> Exhibition by Zvonko Kucelin<br />
D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. One of the stalwarts of<br />
pho<strong>to</strong>graphy in this region will exhibit 100 of his finest<br />
pho<strong>to</strong>graphs as a newspaper reporter. See Kucelin’s works<br />
which represent his 30 year career with <strong>to</strong>pics that include<br />
culture, sport and politics from his home<strong>to</strong>wn of Zadar <strong>to</strong><br />
faraway New York. He brings <strong>to</strong> life the first 20 twenty years<br />
of his pho<strong>to</strong>graphy with black and white images and the last<br />
10 years are in colour. Q Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
28.08 Sunday - 30.09 Friday<br />
Dražen Trogrlić - Glass Sculptures<br />
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog<br />
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.<br />
This jack of all trades expresses himself through various<br />
mediums from fine art, drawing and print, <strong>to</strong> sculpting rock,<br />
metal and glass. Trogrlić treats volume, surface and texture<br />
as elements of the same value. By using transparent glass<br />
and non transparent wood, he brings forth an enchanting<br />
visual tension between these two materials. Q Admission<br />
10 - 30 kn.<br />
23.12 Friday - 30.01 Monday<br />
Angels Without Borders<br />
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog<br />
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.<br />
Ivo Pervan is an award winning Croatian pho<strong>to</strong>grapher who<br />
has ventured between heaven and earth for this exhibit. He<br />
depicts angel motifs of different materials and techniques<br />
from Croatia through <strong>to</strong> Sofia, Rome, Berlin and Mainz. By<br />
crossing borders, he hopes <strong>to</strong> bring that <strong>to</strong>uch of divinity <strong>to</strong><br />
his work. Pho<strong>to</strong>s which in reality are only 2cm big have been<br />
enhanced so that even the tiniest angels found on church<br />
<strong>to</strong>ps, can now be seen. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Callegro Cinema C-3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 20 49 00, info@callegro.com, www.callegro.<br />
com.<br />
CineStar N-5, Murvička 1 (City Gallery), tel. (+385-)<br />
060 32 32 33/(+385-23) 62 88 54.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
14 Culture & Events<br />
Culture & Events<br />
15<br />
Dubioza kolektiv<br />
The Museum of Ancient Glass<br />
The museum is housed in the nineteenth-century<br />
Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former <strong>to</strong>wn walls<br />
overlooking Jazine harbour.<br />
The museum contains one of the finest collections<br />
of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of<br />
goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites<br />
across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin<br />
(Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe<br />
(Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels<br />
used by Roman-era ladies <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>re perfumes, skin creams<br />
and essential oils. These treasured items of domestic<br />
glassware were often taken <strong>to</strong> the grave by their owners<br />
– much of the collection comes from excavations at<br />
Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader<br />
was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early<br />
Christians <strong>to</strong> celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which<br />
holy water was s<strong>to</strong>red.The replica Roman glassware<br />
museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of<br />
the classiest souvenir-s<strong>to</strong>ps in the city.<br />
As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop<br />
where you can learn more about the almost forgotten<br />
craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for<br />
just that.<br />
Opera, Operetta & Ballet<br />
13.07 Wednesday<br />
Rigolet<strong>to</strong><br />
B-3, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.donat-festival.<br />
hr. An opera ensemble from Italy performs one of Verdi’s<br />
masterpieces.This three-act opera has the makings of an<br />
epic. From the portrayal of Rigolet<strong>to</strong> the hunchbacked jester,<br />
<strong>to</strong> the Duke, a ladies’ man of his time, and Gilda, the innocent<br />
victim, this is a s<strong>to</strong>ry of love, treachery and vengeance. Opera<br />
starts at 21:00. Q Tickets 70 - 80kn. J<br />
Rock & Pop Concerts<br />
17.06 Friday<br />
Urban&4<br />
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. A<br />
melodic <strong>to</strong> heavy pop/rock/industrial singer, songwriter and<br />
guitarist. He had his first public performance as a 16 year old<br />
in Rijeka with the band “La bellona” and has won numerous<br />
music awards. Urban’s stage presence is exemplary, emotive<br />
and a treat. Many conisder him Croatia’s David Bowie with<br />
similar vocals.<br />
25.06 Saturday<br />
Dubioza kolektiv<br />
D-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke i Park Kapetanski.<br />
One of the wonders in this region are Bosnian outfit ‘Dubioza<br />
kolektiv’, last year the band released their fourth album<br />
entitled “5 do 12” which is on the list of 20 albums nominated<br />
for the ‘European Independent Album of the Year’ Award. The<br />
band plays a reggae/dub/rock style of music with burning<br />
lyrical subjects that deal with corruption, bureaucracy,<br />
recession and poverty. Q J<br />
26.08 Friday<br />
Rade Šerbedžija<br />
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.<br />
The famous Croatian and Hollywood ac<strong>to</strong>r will hold a concert<br />
as part of the Forum Film festival. He is accompanied by the<br />
members of his multi talented family, and is showing his<br />
mastery in both theatrical stage bravura as well as folk-ethno<br />
musical sounds.<br />
Coming soon<br />
UB 40<br />
B-3, Forum. British dub/reggae/pop act UB40 ought <strong>to</strong><br />
soothe your souls as you escape the daytime summer<br />
heat. They have sold a whopping 70 million records and<br />
hits such as ‘Red Red Wine’, ‘Can’t Help Falling in Love’<br />
and ‘I Got You Babe’ <strong>to</strong>pped billboard charts worldwide.<br />
Few acts have put reggae back on the world map as have<br />
these lads from Birmingham. Concert starts at 22:00. Q<br />
Tickets 100kn available at the www.eventim.hr or Tourist<br />
Information centre, Mihe Klaića 2. J<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
16 Culture & Events<br />
Culture & Events<br />
17<br />
An<strong>to</strong>nija Gospić<br />
Special events<br />
10.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday<br />
Festival of the Amateur Culture and Creativity<br />
- F.A.K.K.<br />
D-3/4, Dom hrvatske mladeži - Mihovila Pavlinovića bb,<br />
Student Centre Božo Lerotić, Deputy Palace (Providurova<br />
palača). A plethora of music, art, workshops, film and<br />
hands on do it yourself activities are up for grabs. Hand<br />
made products will be exhibited by amateur artists, attend<br />
workshops on hand embroidery and stencil art, learn how<br />
<strong>to</strong> make graphite stencils by using Pho<strong>to</strong>shop and more.<br />
Amateur films from the 10th RAF Festival will be screened.<br />
Wind down with the ‘chill sessions’ after 22:00. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:00. J<br />
23.06 Thursday - 24.06 Friday<br />
Tango Festival<br />
A-3, Arsenal, Trg bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.<br />
Love Latino and tango? Then get in<strong>to</strong> the swing of this dance<br />
bonanza as performance groups and pairs strut their stuff<br />
at the 2nd edition of this event. Passers by are more than<br />
welcome <strong>to</strong> join in and even learn from the best!<br />
23.06 Thursday - 25.06 Saturday<br />
The 1st Jadera Urban Music Fest<br />
D-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke i Park Kapetanski.<br />
Three days of home grown talent is what this event is all<br />
about. The opening is reserved for the finals of the Zadar<br />
guitar playing contest followed by legendary punk/rock party<br />
animals Psihomodo Pop. The second day brings In Ruff and<br />
Go Mars from Osijek, Pos<strong>to</strong>lar Tripper, Kawasaki 3p and the<br />
almighty rock larrikins Let 3. The icing on the cake is on day<br />
3 with bands E.N.D., Sexymotherfuckers, the Dubioza kolektiv<br />
and Partibrejkers.<br />
24.06 Friday - 02.09 Friday<br />
Feštice<br />
Zadar returns <strong>to</strong> the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals,<br />
or feštice, <strong>to</strong> bring the original spirit of Dalmatia <strong>to</strong> the week’s<br />
big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh,<br />
simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a<br />
popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups<br />
(klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional<br />
fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding <strong>to</strong><br />
the general warmth and gaiety.<br />
27.06 Monday - 30.06 Thursday<br />
Get EXITed music festival<br />
Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag.<br />
An additional event has been added <strong>to</strong> Papaya’s scorching<br />
summer calendar with Get EXITed. Consider this the appetiser<br />
<strong>to</strong> one of the world’s largest festivals, the EXIT festival in Novi<br />
Sad, Serbia. This open air event will have you bopping day<br />
and night with some of the finest DJ’s turning the tables and<br />
coming our way. Q Tickets 150kn at www.eventim.hr.<br />
30.06 Thursday - 04.08 Thursday<br />
The 17th Zadar Summer Theatre<br />
C-3, Deputy’s Palace (courtyard), St Dominic’s Church<br />
(D-3), Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Zadar, Široka ulica 8,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr. One of the<br />
city’s traditional summer events with theatre performances<br />
and musicals <strong>to</strong> be held in the evenings, set amidst his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />
grandeur. A reper<strong>to</strong>ire of local and foreign art performances<br />
are scheduled. This year’s programme is divided in<strong>to</strong> two:<br />
Part 1 presents a drama and dance programme whilst<br />
Part 2 is the musical programme called The Contemporary<br />
Music Festival.<br />
Some of the concerts this summer:<br />
21.07. Jazz Hondo at 21:30<br />
25.07. Andromeda Turre Quintet at 21:30<br />
28.07. Saskia Laroo Project at 21:30<br />
04.08. Marcelo Godoy & Nelson Latif at 21:30<br />
Q Tickets 50kn and available at the box office.<br />
06.07 Wednesday - 13.07 Wednesday<br />
The 6th Garden Festival - <strong>Back</strong> <strong>to</strong> our roots<br />
Petrčane (near Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 36 47 39, www.<br />
thegardenfestival.eu/hr/. Petrčane is a beautiful little<br />
fishing village. It’s 900 years old with pine forests, old<br />
cottages and villas on the sea front. When summer hits, the<br />
Garden Festival attracts 1000’s and tickets are limited. The<br />
line-up is huge with DJ’s from all over the world; the festival<br />
runs for 8 days and nights, it includes the Argonaughty<br />
boat cruise which is a great party voyage out over the<br />
open sea by day and at night in particular, the entire place<br />
is a buzz. You cannot miss this amazing experience. Visit<br />
www.thegardenfestival.eu/en/ for all info, including DJ’s<br />
and stages.<br />
Saljski užanci, Jure Mišković<br />
08.07 Friday - 11.08 Thursday<br />
The 51st Musical Evenings in St Donatus’s<br />
B-3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral,<br />
St. Francis’ Church, Forum (Croatian National Theatre<br />
Zadar, Široka ulica 8), tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.<br />
donat-festival.hr. If you enjoy the ambience of music within<br />
a holy setting, then this international music festival which<br />
combines music and beautiful old church architecture will<br />
delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles<br />
and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber<br />
music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important<br />
cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Box office Open<br />
11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays<br />
only at the concert venues. Tickets 40 - 80kn available at<br />
the box office.<br />
20.07 Wednesday<br />
Adria Air Race Zadar<br />
Riva. Top Gun eat your heart out as Zadar is home <strong>to</strong> this<br />
multiple aircraft competition where the rules are oh soooo<br />
stringent. Competi<strong>to</strong>rs compete against the clock and are<br />
judged on performance. From loops and rolls, the manoeuvres<br />
are breathtaking. If you missed the last Air Race in Dubai, then<br />
descend <strong>to</strong>wards Zadar for a heavenly thrill.<br />
23.07 Saturday<br />
Millenium Jump<br />
B/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. When in Zadar do<br />
as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here<br />
for this growing event which is being held for the fourth year<br />
in a row. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people<br />
form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump in<strong>to</strong> the water<br />
forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air!<br />
The line ranges from the Sea Organ through <strong>to</strong> the Faculty<br />
of Humanities and Social Science.<br />
24.07 Sunday - 27.07 Wednesday<br />
Feel Free Festival<br />
Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, www.aquarius.hr/zrce/en/.<br />
Dutch dynamo Laidback Luke takes the spotlight with his<br />
electro-house rhythms and does everything <strong>to</strong> make the<br />
audience move <strong>to</strong> his blockbuster beats. Fellow countryman<br />
DJ Chuckie whose hit ‘Let the Bass kick in Miami’ returns after<br />
his mesmerizing performance last year. Avicii from Sweden<br />
may be the baby of the group but this emerging talent has<br />
already worked with David Guetta and Roger Sanchez, electro<br />
and house are his forte. Q Tickets 150kn.<br />
Looking for more?<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
UB 40<br />
27.07 Wednesday - 28.07 Thursday<br />
Jazz and Wine Days<br />
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.<br />
What a complimentary blend as visi<strong>to</strong>rs can sample the vast<br />
range of local wines amidst some soothing jazz tunes. The<br />
ZZ Quartet (Simone Zanchini from Italy plays the accordion<br />
with Croatian Ratko Zjača, a jazz guitarist who has played with<br />
the likes of Randy Brecker and Benny Bailey) will perform at<br />
the opening and the second day will see bossa nova group<br />
the Dino Rangel Trio.<br />
28.07 Thursday - 29.07 Friday<br />
KalelargArt<br />
A street art festival that includes dance and theatre<br />
performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas,<br />
street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is<br />
taken <strong>to</strong> the people; it is held across a range of city locations<br />
and at various times from dusk till dawn.<br />
01.08 Monday - 03.08 Wednesday<br />
Beat the Heat<br />
Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, www.aquarius.hr/zrce/en/.<br />
Another smashing festival with three world class DJ’s.<br />
Dutchman Dash Berlin opens the festival with his progressivetrance<br />
mixes, his hit singles are, ‘Till the Sky Falls Down’ and<br />
‘Man on the Run’. Benny Benassi, the Italian electro/house DJ<br />
will whet your appetites as he spins the tables on day 2 whilst<br />
Sander Van Doorn blasts the colossal speakers at Zrče with<br />
his fusion of trance and house for the finale. Show starts at<br />
22:00. Q Tickets 150,00kn.<br />
06.08 Saturday<br />
The traditional Fishermen’s Čeprljandska<br />
fiesta<br />
Ugljan, Island Ugljan. When on the island of Ugljan, do as<br />
the Ugljani do! They sure know how <strong>to</strong> put on a feast and<br />
this traditional event is rich in music, sporting contests, and<br />
culinary presentations of Dalmatian and island specialties.<br />
Just as a note, the <strong>to</strong>wn of Ugljan, which is the biggest on<br />
the island of Ugljan, is famous for having the most hours of<br />
sunshine in the Zadar Aqua<strong>to</strong>rium. So let it shine!<br />
06.08 Saturday - 13.08 Saturday<br />
15th International Festival of Contemporary<br />
Theatre<br />
The City Forum, St. Donatus’ Church, St Dominic’s<br />
Church. This is the meaning of “Zadar snova”, a rather more<br />
avant-garde cultural festival, held for the eighth time between<br />
6-13 August. Expect modern dance, new film, exhibitions and<br />
workshops in comic strips, theatre, humanitarian events,<br />
music and drum’n’bass DJs and more. Unmissable!<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
18 Culture & Events<br />
Culture & Events<br />
19<br />
Theatres<br />
Croatian Theatre House (Kazališna kuća<br />
Zadar) C-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86,<br />
hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr, www.hkk-zadar.hr.<br />
Zadar Puppet Theatre E-2, Obala kralja Tomislava<br />
bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 27 54.<br />
Galleries<br />
Miljenko Domijan, Terra Toscana<br />
Arsenal A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38<br />
20, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.<br />
com. Q June 13 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 07:00 -01:00.<br />
City Library Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23)<br />
30 11 03. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Admission<br />
5 - 10kn.<br />
Knight’s Palace D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission<br />
10kn.<br />
Terre Verte B-3, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 25 00 40. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
The Captain’s Tower Gallery (Kapetanova<br />
kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara bb. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00,<br />
18:00 - 20:00. Sun Closed.<br />
Saskie Laroo, pho<strong>to</strong> by Željko Karavida, Croatian National<br />
Theatre Zadar<br />
06.08 Saturday - 12.08 Friday<br />
2nd Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival<br />
Starigrad, tel. (+385-23) 369 18 73, info@spff.hr,<br />
www.spff.hr. This serene old coastal <strong>to</strong>wn turns musical<br />
by paying tribute <strong>to</strong> both Croatian and world musical greats<br />
through film documentaries. The festival presents local and<br />
world productions showing musical icons in a different light,<br />
through biographies or whilst at work creating their music.<br />
What’s more, the <strong>to</strong>wn turns in<strong>to</strong> a stage with matinees and<br />
concerts held across various <strong>to</strong>wn locations.<br />
06.08 Saturday<br />
Moon & Rocks Festival<br />
Novalja Stadium, http://moonnrocks.com/. What a lineup<br />
on Pag? Tino Maas takes the stage with his progressive<br />
house and trance mania juxtaposed by some techno roar.<br />
He has mixed for Fat Boy Slim and Madonna amongst<br />
others. Infected Mushroom debut in Croatia and come from<br />
Israel, they play psychedelic trance and are known for their<br />
explosive shows with elements of rock for that element of<br />
surprise. Home grown DJ’s Go Cut and Ludvig are associated<br />
with ‘Astralis’, a famous club in Zagreb, they have <strong>to</strong>ured<br />
the world and blend electro, house and progressive sounds<br />
in their own respective ways. Show starts at 17:00. Q<br />
Tickets 99.00kn.<br />
06.08 Saturday - 07.08 Sunday<br />
Saljski užanci<br />
Sali, Dugi o<strong>to</strong>k. As tradition stands, you will be invited by a<br />
band of young musicians dressed in ceremonial outfits who<br />
march through the <strong>to</strong>wn playing a horn type instrument. And<br />
that’s when the fun begins; donkey races, klape (acapella<br />
singers), Croatian musicians, folk ensembles and local food.<br />
This bonanza is held in Sali on the island Dugi o<strong>to</strong>k.<br />
12.08 Friday - 14.08 Sunday<br />
S<strong>to</strong>p Making Sense Festival<br />
The Garden Punta Radman, Petčrane (near Zadar),<br />
info@s<strong>to</strong>pmakingsense.eu, www.sms-2010.com. Top<br />
notch DJs and bands mixing genres from jazz, folk and Latin<br />
<strong>to</strong> house and techno via reggae, dubstep and electro. What<br />
an ideal combination of sun, sea and entertainment! And did<br />
someone say that the festival has its own private beach?<br />
Indeed! Go for a splash between acts or order drinks at the<br />
Tiki Bar. Starts at noon and runs through <strong>to</strong> 6am. Dance your<br />
senses away! Q Admission 200 - 400kn.<br />
13.08 Saturday<br />
Full Moon Festival<br />
B/C-4, Riva. On the night of the full moon in high summer,<br />
the Riva is lit by <strong>to</strong>rch and candlelight. Boats are turned in<strong>to</strong><br />
floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the<br />
famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan), clams from Pašman and<br />
mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve<br />
everything from šokol from Nin <strong>to</strong> figs, cheese, rakija and<br />
traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance <strong>to</strong> travel <strong>to</strong><br />
Zadar’s outlying <strong>to</strong>wns and islands <strong>to</strong> sample the folklore of<br />
the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable<br />
event.<br />
13.08 Saturday - 13.08 Saturday<br />
Papaya Day&Night Summer Festival<br />
Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag. Papaya is Croatia’s counterpart<br />
<strong>to</strong> Ibiza and is one of the best open air clubs in Europe. It is<br />
set on the island of Pag, Novalja, on the beautiful beach Zrće.<br />
During the day, enjoy the most popular dance beach parties<br />
which continue in<strong>to</strong> the night under the starry sky. Special<br />
festival themes add <strong>to</strong> the flavour as some of the hottest<br />
names in world electronic music pump their endless tunes.<br />
Brace yourselves as the outstanding line-up says it all…<br />
13 - 16.07 Papaya Day & Night Summer Festival<br />
28 - 30.07 Axe After Beach Festival<br />
11 - 13.08 MTV Mag Festival<br />
Q Tickets at www.eventim.hr.<br />
23.08 Tuesday - 28.08 Sunday<br />
The 2nd Film Forum Festival<br />
Forum (B-3), City Library (L-4), Puppet Theatre (D-3),Riva<br />
(A-4), The Museum of Ancient Glass (D-2), Five Wells<br />
Square (D-3), tel. (+385) 99 413 43 59, office@<br />
filmforumzadar.com, http://www.filmforumzadar.com/<br />
en/the-player/. In partnership with the Producers Network<br />
at the ‘Marche du Film’ in Cannes, this event conjugates<br />
over 500 world producers who kindle international film coproductions.<br />
This year features European co-productions<br />
and documentaries, a reminiscent section named ‘Classics<br />
on the Adriatic’ and more. We just might meet the new<br />
Spielberg here?<br />
Workshops<br />
16.07 Saturday - 22.07 Friday<br />
The 10th Pho<strong>to</strong> Workshop in Sestrunj<br />
www.robertmarnika.com. Learn the be all and end<br />
all of pho<strong>to</strong>graphy on the island of Sestrunj, its tranquil<br />
surroundings are perfect <strong>to</strong> enhance your skills in capturing<br />
digital images, varying techniques, pho<strong>to</strong>-shop, outdoor<br />
and underwater shooting, plus more. Be quick <strong>to</strong> apply as<br />
there are two, seven day workshops. BYO digital camera and<br />
notebook (if possible)!<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> Workshop in Sestrunj<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Art Deco in Croatia<br />
The exhibition “Art Deco in<br />
Croatia in the Interwar Period” at<br />
the Museum of Arts and Crafts in<br />
Zagreb has been so well received<br />
both at home and abroad that<br />
it has been extended until 28<br />
August 2011. This gives <strong>to</strong>urists<br />
visiting Zagreb over the summer<br />
the chance <strong>to</strong> see one of the<br />
most popular exhibitions here<br />
in recent years, while students<br />
and art lovers can still arrange<br />
their trip <strong>to</strong> Zagreb <strong>to</strong> visit the<br />
exhibition.<br />
By the end of May 2011 more<br />
than 45,000 people had visited<br />
Perfume Bottle<br />
the exhibition. You can see over 750 art works including<br />
paintings, graphics, sculpture and applied arts featuring<br />
fashion and furniture<br />
design and more. It<br />
has been written about<br />
by France’s Le Figaro<br />
and received extensive<br />
radio coverage in the<br />
Spanish-speaking world<br />
as evidence that the<br />
“roaring twenties” was<br />
Art Deco, Jelena Babić, Bowl<br />
Art Deco, Falko,<br />
alive and kicking in<br />
Croatia <strong>to</strong>o.<br />
You can watch informative presentations on the Art<br />
Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there<br />
is live music in the spirit<br />
of 20s cabaret, and the<br />
museum is open until<br />
22:00. On Saturdays<br />
and Sundays there are<br />
workshops for children.<br />
Everyone will enjoy the<br />
chance <strong>to</strong> buy replicas<br />
and other souvenirs, a<br />
catalogue, a DVD or an<br />
audio guide.<br />
Art Deco, Shoes<br />
Info at (+385-23) 488<br />
21 11, (+385-23) 488 21 25, www.muo.hr.<br />
Art Deco, Armchair, Srećko Sabljak<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
20 Where <strong>to</strong> stay<br />
Where <strong>to</strong> stay<br />
21<br />
Upmarket<br />
Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@<br />
hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. If you’re seeking<br />
accommodation in the his<strong>to</strong>rical centre of the city, look<br />
no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is<br />
equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness<br />
centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet<br />
at your feet. The Garden Club is situated right beneath the<br />
hotel itself. Q28 rooms (23 singles €179, 23 doubles €219,<br />
3 suites €337, 1 President apartment €420, 1 Junior Suite<br />
€298). PJHAFLGBKD hhhh<br />
Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana F-4, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra<br />
Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 20 63 00, fax (+385-23)<br />
55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com,<br />
www.falkensteiner.com. A “lifestyle hotel”, once you’ve<br />
seen it, you’ll want <strong>to</strong> buy in<strong>to</strong> it. The ultimate in comfort<br />
and tasteful design, with a surrounding park and pool area<br />
which are a sight for sore eyes, day or night. Prices are per<br />
person full board. Q48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €90 - 120).<br />
PHAFEGBKDC hhhh<br />
Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik F-4, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra<br />
Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 20 61 00, fax (+385-<br />
23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com,<br />
www.falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel with<br />
modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at families<br />
with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua park, plus the<br />
galaxy of sports, activites and excursions. Family rooms can<br />
accommodate up <strong>to</strong> three children. Prices are per person per<br />
day, all-inclusive and for Luxury Suite available upon request.<br />
Q258 rooms (54 doubles €102 - 136, 88 Mini Family €113 -<br />
149, 53 Family Royal €121 - 160, 59 Family Suite €138 - 175,<br />
4 Luxury Suite). PTHAUFEBKDC hhhh<br />
Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 21 10<br />
17/(+385-23) 20 32 00, fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.<br />
kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. The<br />
closest hotel <strong>to</strong> the Old Town recently got a facelift. Most<br />
rooms face an open air swimming pool and the beach at<br />
Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of well-<strong>to</strong>-do villas. Prices<br />
are per room per night, including breakfast. Q203 rooms<br />
(27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 - 1334kn,<br />
36 triples 1477 - 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn).<br />
PTJHAUGBKC hhhh<br />
Zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Finding a place <strong>to</strong> stay couldn’t be simpler than with<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf<br />
our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably<br />
updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the<br />
but<strong>to</strong>n and hey pres<strong>to</strong>! You’re through <strong>to</strong> our reservations<br />
site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot<br />
is hot <strong>to</strong> trot, and off you go!<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning<br />
O Casino<br />
T Child friendly<br />
R Internet<br />
F Fitness centre<br />
K Restaurant<br />
D Sauna<br />
A Credit cards accepted<br />
H Conference facilities<br />
U Facilities for the disabled<br />
L Guarded parking<br />
G Non-smoking rooms<br />
6 Animal friendly<br />
C Swimming pool<br />
Mid-range<br />
Donat F-4, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23)<br />
20 65 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@<br />
falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. Part of the<br />
Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and<br />
you’re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options.<br />
Prices are per person all-inclusive. Q240 rooms (36 singles<br />
€57 - 75, 126 doubles €51 - 68, 34 triples €51 - 68, 44 Family<br />
Rooms €67 - 73). PTHAEGBKC hhh<br />
Hotel Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 78 00/(+385-) 098 46 50 45, fax (+385-23) 33 36<br />
16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. A rather colourful new villastyle<br />
building, close <strong>to</strong> all the Borik amenities. All rooms are<br />
comfortable and air-conditioned, and have good balconies,<br />
although the view of the local Konzum may not be quite what<br />
you were hoping for. Prices include breakfast. Q21 rooms (17<br />
doubles €70, 4 triples €80). PALBK hhh<br />
Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr,<br />
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close<br />
<strong>to</strong> the Borik complex and beaches. It’s a pleasant, clean,<br />
family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms<br />
have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and airconditioning<br />
available. Prices are per room with breakfast.<br />
Q30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 570 -<br />
720kn). PTALBK hhh<br />
Por<strong>to</strong> R-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23<br />
00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.por<strong>to</strong>@zd.t-com.hr,<br />
www.hotel-por<strong>to</strong>.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about<br />
15 minutes’ drive from the centre offers reasonable prices,<br />
clean bright rooms, and decent food. It’s on the crossroads<br />
heading <strong>to</strong>wards the airport and the Split highway, so it’s ideal<br />
for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103<br />
rooms (8 singles €58 - 64, 38 doubles €41 - 44, 51 triples €32<br />
- 35, 6 apartments €32 - 35). PHALGBK hhh<br />
Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr,<br />
www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road <strong>to</strong> Puntamika, a<br />
beautiful Italian villa renovated <strong>to</strong> create a delightful hotel.<br />
Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you<br />
can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town<br />
nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two <strong>to</strong> four. Prices are<br />
per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120,<br />
6 suites €130 - 220). PALGKC hhh<br />
Villa Nico F-3, Krešimirova obala 138, Diklo, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 33 11 98, fax (+385-23) 33 19 60, nico.<br />
moric@villanico.t-com.hr, www.hotel-villanico.com.<br />
Right on the seafront in the beach neighbourhood of Diklo<br />
a few kilometres west of the Old Town. All rooms have king<br />
size beds, satellite TV and mini bar. There’s a fitness centre<br />
and garage. Prices are for the room plus breakfast. Oh, and<br />
it’s pink! Q25 rooms (25 singles 400 - 550kn, 25 doubles<br />
550 - 725kn). PALGBK hhh<br />
Hostels<br />
Drunken Monkey Hostel P-6, Jure Kastriotića<br />
Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099<br />
415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@gmail.com, www.<br />
drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. Hostel is ideal for backpackers.<br />
It is situated at the Arbanasi district close <strong>to</strong> the Bus Station<br />
and Kolovare Beach, and the old <strong>to</strong>wn is only a 20-25 minute<br />
walk away. The hostel has got all the necessary facilities<br />
including kitchen, individual rooms and a small bar, as well<br />
as laundry service. Q 38 dorm beds, 200 - 500kn per<br />
person. PJCW<br />
Zadar Youth Hostel G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@<br />
hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of the large pavilions<br />
in Zadar’s youth hostel complex has been fully renovated.<br />
Before now, the hostel was best avoided. If you’re lucky<br />
enough <strong>to</strong> book in<strong>to</strong> the new place, you’ll pay a little extra.<br />
Sports facilities and restaurant, friendly and helpful staff.<br />
Prices are per person for bed and breakfast. Rooms for<br />
between 2 and 8 people. Q 298 dorm beds, 21 - 35€ per<br />
person. HUGBKW<br />
Camping<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>kamp Planik Ražanac, tel. (+385-23) 65 14 31/<br />
(+385-) 098 27 21 87, planik@planik.hr, www.planik.<br />
hr. Ražanac is a village just before the bridge <strong>to</strong> Pag, with<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ric ruins nearby. The camp is excellent, with clean sand<br />
and shingle beaches. They offer excurisions, including rafting<br />
on the Zrmanja river as well as riding, yoga, aqua aerobics<br />
and activities for the kiddywinks. Accomodation tax €0,55<br />
- 0,85. Q Person / per day €2 - 5, Tent €2 - 5, Car €2 - 4,<br />
Camping trailer €2 - 5.<br />
Borik F-3, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra Radovana 7, Borik, tel./fax<br />
(+385-23) 33 20 74, info@campingborik.com, www.<br />
campingborik.com. The Borik hotel complex is set in pine<br />
woods by a good beach; the campsite is pleasant and wellequipped.<br />
A few minutes’ bus ride from the centre - or the<br />
coastal stroll is far from unpleasant. Shops, restaurants, and<br />
bars nearby. Q Person / per day €3 - 7, Pitch €6 - 17, Parking<br />
€4 - 6, Accomodation tax €0,5 - 1. AK<br />
Out of <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29<br />
07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com,<br />
www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a<br />
pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within<br />
and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar.<br />
Close <strong>to</strong> the heart of Biograd and the <strong>to</strong>wn’s excellent beach,<br />
the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are<br />
per person including breakfast. Q105 rooms (5 singles<br />
€77 - 128, 95 doubles €45 - 75, 5 apartments €75 - 125).<br />
PTJHAFLEBKDC hhh<br />
Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv.<br />
Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23)<br />
38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr.<br />
This lively little <strong>to</strong>wn south of Zadar has great beaches, and<br />
the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and<br />
simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound.<br />
Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is also<br />
available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90 rooms<br />
(90 apartments 207 - 412kn). PHALBK hhh<br />
Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@<br />
hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built,<br />
recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and<br />
airy accommodation, a super terrace, a restaurant and<br />
saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and<br />
apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast<br />
included. Q76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 -<br />
110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKD hhh<br />
Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. (+385-23) 39<br />
65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com,<br />
www.ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina<br />
and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have<br />
been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation.<br />
The remaining floors are a little cheaper. Ample sports<br />
facilities close <strong>to</strong> the centre of Biograd. Prices per person<br />
including breakfast. Pets welcome on request. Q168 rooms<br />
(160 singles €80 - 137, 160 doubles €47 - 81, 8 apartments<br />
€75 - 125). PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
22 Where <strong>to</strong> stay<br />
Restaurants<br />
23<br />
Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23)<br />
35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.<br />
com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean,<br />
comfortable and has a great location in a green spot near<br />
the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It<br />
shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the<br />
Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices<br />
per person with breakfast. Q106 rooms (102 singles<br />
€77 - 137, 102 doubles €45 - 81, 4 apartments €70 - 115).<br />
PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh<br />
Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, tel. (+385-23) 39 14<br />
20, fax (+385-23) 39 14 21, info@marenostrum-hr.com,<br />
www.marenostrum-hr.com. A new hotel in lavender-filled<br />
gardens right on the beach at Sveti Petar, a small <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
between Zadar and Biograd. Delightful, modern airy rooms, all<br />
with air conditioning, satellite TV and great balconies with sea<br />
views. Friendly staff. Prices include breakfast. Q14 rooms<br />
(14 doubles €56 - 100). PALBK hhh<br />
Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+385-<br />
23) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr.<br />
A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula<br />
10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and<br />
sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes<br />
and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta),<br />
sports and excursions. Prices per person half board. 30%<br />
supplement for stays under 3 nights. Q340 rooms (24<br />
singles €54 - 84, 216 doubles €48 - 74, 63 triples €48 -<br />
74, 10 apartments €87 - 296, 27 Family Rooms €48 - 74).<br />
PTJHAUFBKDC hhhh<br />
Villa Nela Punta Radman, Put 7, Petrčane, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 36 46 60, fax (+385-23) 36 46 70, info@velcek<strong>to</strong>urs.com,<br />
www.velcek-<strong>to</strong>urs.com. A new villa with clean<br />
and airy apartments, and a sea-water pool in the delightful<br />
pine-shaded garden by the sea, where you can swing yourself<br />
<strong>to</strong> sleep in a hammock. Apartments can accommodate up <strong>to</strong><br />
five; all have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the sea.<br />
Q12 rooms (3 Studio €60 - 120, 3 1-Bedroom €75 - 135,<br />
3 2-Bedroom €85 - 160, 3 Large 2 Bedrooms €90 - 185).<br />
PJA6LGBC hhh<br />
Za<strong>to</strong>n Holiday Resort Dražnikova ulica 76, Nin - Za<strong>to</strong>n,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, sales.<br />
dept@za<strong>to</strong>n.hr, www.za<strong>to</strong>n.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an<br />
attractively planted apartment village and excellent campsite<br />
placed <strong>to</strong> take advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Za<strong>to</strong>n.<br />
Za<strong>to</strong>n has a huge array of activities, including water sports,<br />
horse riding, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and<br />
a popular nightclub. Q590 rooms (590 apartments €30 -<br />
248). PTA6UFLEBKCS hhhh<br />
Islands<br />
Agava Božava bb, Dugi O<strong>to</strong>k, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91,<br />
fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www.<br />
hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in an idyllic island<br />
village, with a new swimming pool, sauna, jaccuzi, massage,<br />
fitness centre, tennis and diving in Božava’s famous clear<br />
waters. Recently refurbished, with accommodation in<br />
apartments with kitchenettes. Prices are per person with<br />
breakfast, based on two people sharing. Q18 rooms (18<br />
Family Rooms €43 - 77). PHA6FKDC hhh<br />
Korinjak Veli Iž, Iž Island, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 64, fax<br />
(+385-23) 27 72 48, info@korinjak.hr, www.korinjak.<br />
hr. Hotel Korinjak runs summer courses under the umbrella<br />
programme “Soul Vacations”. Learn <strong>to</strong> understand yourself,<br />
reduce stress, and more... Also yoga courses. A vegetarian<br />
menu and relaxing activities complement the courses. Prices<br />
are per person per day. Q78 rooms (15 singles 317 - 370kn,<br />
63 doubles 225 - 375kn). HALGBK hh<br />
Lavanda Božava bb, Dugi O<strong>to</strong>k, tel. (+385-23) 29 12<br />
91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr,<br />
www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been<br />
fully refurbished. All rooms have balconies with a sea view.<br />
Božava is perfect if you’re looking for peace and quiet in<br />
pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts.<br />
You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above. Prices<br />
are per person with breakfast. Q88 rooms (88 doubles<br />
€43 - 77). PA6FBKDC hhh<br />
Stjepan Felber<br />
Looking for more?<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Croatian<br />
These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian<br />
specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia,<br />
which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.<br />
Albin H-3, Put Dikla 47, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 37, albin1@<br />
zd.t-com.hr, www.albin.hr. A well-known restaurant in a<br />
small three star hotel, their fish soup is legendary, and they<br />
use their own amazing home-made olive oil. They also have<br />
premises in Lukoran on the island of Ugljan. QOpen 15:00 -<br />
23:00. (60 - 150kn). LNB<br />
Bruschetta C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 31 29 15. The name says it all! The emphasis here is<br />
‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar<br />
region on hand, the range of food is varied from several<br />
types of bruschetta, <strong>to</strong> fish and meat carpaccio, as well as<br />
different types of pizza and pasta. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.<br />
(60 - 110kn). PJABW<br />
Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45,<br />
info@res<strong>to</strong>rani-zadar.hr, www.res<strong>to</strong>rani-zadar.hr. A great,<br />
shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse,<br />
with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as<br />
well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch <strong>to</strong><br />
break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!! QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00. (45 - 90kn). PAGBC<br />
Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13 (Bastion<br />
hotel), tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Located in the 13th<br />
century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar<br />
centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative<br />
modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade<br />
bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local<br />
gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 -<br />
190kn). PALGBXW<br />
Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45<br />
01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of<br />
inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this<br />
place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive,<br />
<strong>to</strong>p quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risot<strong>to</strong>.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 160kn). PJAGBX<br />
Malo mis<strong>to</strong> C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 30 18 31, http://malo-mis<strong>to</strong>.com. The “little<br />
place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and<br />
popular. Locals come <strong>to</strong> enjoy the food, atmosphere and<br />
listen <strong>to</strong> Croatian music. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 150kn).<br />
PNBX<br />
Marinero F-3, Krešimirova obala 86, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 36 95. Pizzas and pasta with that Mediterranean feel,<br />
there’s a wide food selection and we recommend the seafood<br />
cuisine - fresh and well prepared. It’s a place <strong>to</strong> wind down<br />
at the end of a day of sightseeing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(60 - 110kn). PLNB<br />
Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78<br />
00/(+385-) 098 46 50 45, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr.<br />
Inside the new apart-hotel, an a’ la carte restaurant serving<br />
Croatian and Dalmatian dishes, all local produce. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn). PAB<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning<br />
E Live music<br />
T Child friendly<br />
G Non-smoking areas<br />
O Casino<br />
R Internet<br />
A Credit cards accepted<br />
S Take away<br />
U Facilities for the disabled<br />
L Guarded parking<br />
B Outside seating<br />
6 Animal friendly<br />
Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. (+385-23)<br />
23 57 86, res<strong>to</strong>ran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming<br />
orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant,<br />
green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong<br />
enough <strong>to</strong> withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in<br />
a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and<br />
a charcoal grill. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(80 - 150kn). PAB<br />
Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, (Hotel Mediteran)<br />
Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 88, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr,<br />
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in<br />
the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(60 - 110kn). PAGBXW<br />
Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 27<br />
28. Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising,<br />
apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and<br />
a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada<br />
(beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian<br />
recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine<br />
and vegetables). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 300kn).<br />
PAGBX<br />
Pet Bunara D-3, Trg Pet bunara bb, tel. (+385-23)<br />
22 40 10, info@petbunara.hr, www.petbunara.hr. The<br />
restaurant has an unusual offering of risot<strong>to</strong>-like dishes<br />
made with barley instead of rice, a nutritious alternative,<br />
and home-made pasta. They also have beef, pork tuna and<br />
turkey steaks, lamb cutlets and classic fish dishes. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180kn). PAGBX<br />
Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. (+385-23) 21 32<br />
75. A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PNGBX<br />
Zadar C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 21 21 82. In the Hotel Zagreb building on the Riva, a<br />
simple restaurant with the nicest terrace in <strong>to</strong>wn. Dalmatian<br />
music and a pleasant atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(50 - 100kn). NB<br />
Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 18 59, jadera@zd.htnet.hr, www.jadera.hr. A large,<br />
busy restaurant by St Chrysogonus’ Church with a wide choice<br />
of local and international meat and fish dishes. Perfectly<br />
respectable food at decent prices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(65 - 90kn). PJAGBX<br />
Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. (+385-23)<br />
21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is<br />
a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard<br />
terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
24 Restaurants<br />
Restaurants<br />
25<br />
Breakfast<br />
Croccante Široka ulica 14, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 53,<br />
www.croccante.hr. When the tummy’s rumbling and you<br />
are after a <strong>to</strong>p-notch breakfast <strong>to</strong> get your day going, hop on<br />
down <strong>to</strong> Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants<br />
and scrumptious <strong>to</strong>ast. Such places for brekky are few and<br />
far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests.<br />
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).<br />
Forum C-3, Madievaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40.<br />
Difficult <strong>to</strong> find but do not let that deter you. This small<br />
bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go.<br />
We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy<br />
bread rolls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (3 - 40kn). NB<br />
Chinese<br />
Shanghai House H-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33<br />
23 10/(+385-) 095 539 81 58, shanghai.res<strong>to</strong>ran@<br />
gmail.com. The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable<br />
atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine<br />
from the land of emperors. We recommend the sig<strong>nature</strong> duck<br />
dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and<br />
for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would like<br />
<strong>to</strong> dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PNGB<br />
Fast food<br />
Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87.<br />
There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger<br />
utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced<br />
meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore<br />
are something like heaven. They’re usually served in a bun<br />
called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips in<strong>to</strong> hot fat<br />
before serving. Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant<br />
little place <strong>to</strong> munch decent ćevapi. Q 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00<br />
- 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (19 - 30kn). PNB<br />
Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25<br />
05 81. Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry<br />
pie) in <strong>to</strong>wn. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style<br />
with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab<br />
you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, <strong>to</strong>asties and mini pizzas<br />
<strong>to</strong>o. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is<br />
also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention<br />
that here if you like having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
(10 - 35kn). PNGB<br />
Nado D-3, Kovačka 2, tel. (+385-23) 30 55 55. Many<br />
locals swear Nado has the tastiest pizza in the centre of<br />
Zadar. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (33 - 70kn).<br />
Obelix G-2, A.G.Ma<strong>to</strong>ša 6, Borik. Good warm sandwiches<br />
(popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff.<br />
With late opening hours, it’s a good place <strong>to</strong> pick up a bite if<br />
you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out<br />
A sweet full s<strong>to</strong>p<br />
The Czechs say that every meal needs a sweet full s<strong>to</strong>p –<br />
just a little something <strong>to</strong> round everything off nicely. Even<br />
though you’re stuffed <strong>to</strong> the, er, gills with fish (sorry) and<br />
other goodies, perhaps you can find room for a refreshing<br />
slice of Anastasia’s dream or Rožata, a recipe from<br />
Dubrovnik similar <strong>to</strong> crčme caramel. Melons and peaches<br />
are at their best at this time of year, as are figs, which<br />
can be steeped in wine and honey, or served dried with<br />
almonds. In restaurants offering ispod peke style food,<br />
you may be able <strong>to</strong> find pancakes cooked in this way, and<br />
stuffed with sweet curd cheese and raisins.<br />
in <strong>to</strong>wn. Located next <strong>to</strong> Obelix, Terra cafe is inimitable for<br />
its summer parties and fried sardines which the owner gives<br />
<strong>to</strong> passer bys for free. The program is on Wednesdays from<br />
21:00 - 01:00. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. (8 - 32kn).<br />
Italian<br />
Trat<strong>to</strong>ria Canzona C-3, S<strong>to</strong>morice 8, tel. (+385-23) 21<br />
20 81/(+385-) 098 70 68 62. A traditional pizzeria with a<br />
very respectable reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb<br />
restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will<br />
be reassured it’s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PJNGBX<br />
Konoba<br />
Konobas are the best places <strong>to</strong> experience typical<br />
Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where<br />
fishermen hung out and got someone else <strong>to</strong> cook their<br />
catch for them.<br />
Martinac B-3, Aleksandra Paravije 7, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
579 98 83, konobamartinac@net.hr. An antique interior<br />
and flower-filled courtyard complemented by family cuisine<br />
of a very high standard. We recommend the veal with tuna<br />
and caper sauce. For dessert, try Rožata (a speciality from<br />
Dubrovnik, something like crème caramel). QOpen 10:00 -<br />
24:00. (50 - 110kn). JNB<br />
Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 20<br />
04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural<br />
s<strong>to</strong>ne (check out the downstairs section). However, the food<br />
is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality,<br />
and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at<br />
reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine<br />
sold from the barrel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn).<br />
PA6B<br />
Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33<br />
53 49. On Put Dikla, the road <strong>to</strong> Borik. It’s got a rather special<br />
menu with loads of <strong>to</strong>p quality steaks prepared au <strong>nature</strong>l on<br />
a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal<br />
and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:30. (50 - 110kn). PLNGBX<br />
Skoblar D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21<br />
32 36. Right next <strong>to</strong> Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens<br />
<strong>to</strong> be the oldest in the old city. Typical s<strong>to</strong>ne interior, they<br />
serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods<br />
cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian<br />
and foreign wines. Live music most weekends <strong>to</strong>o. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PJAGBX<br />
S<strong>to</strong>morica C-3, S<strong>to</strong>morica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59<br />
46. Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of<br />
the oldest konobas in Zadar which used <strong>to</strong> offer hearty and<br />
healthy sardines <strong>to</strong> hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful<br />
place <strong>to</strong> eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been<br />
expanded <strong>to</strong> include most classic seafood dishes. The New<br />
York Times rightly gives S<strong>to</strong>morica a big thumbs up for its<br />
good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar<br />
favourite for generations. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn).<br />
PNGBX<br />
Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 809 73<br />
91/(+385-23) 25 03 19, konobatrata@gmail.com. This<br />
konoba is set a sheltered garden with the foundations of a<br />
2nd century Roman temple as its centrepiece. The menu is<br />
centred on ancient Dalmatian recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was<br />
the word for a big net used for communal fishing in old times.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). NGBX<br />
Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 22 26/<br />
(+385-) 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of<br />
our readers wrote in and <strong>to</strong>ld us that “if you’re looking for a<br />
restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can’t go<br />
wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we<br />
tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately <strong>to</strong> a basic reper<strong>to</strong>ire<br />
of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi,<br />
but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed that<br />
it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this simple.<br />
The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure, so the name<br />
(which literally means “I love it here!”) makes perfect sense.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (55 - 400kn).<br />
PAGBX<br />
Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel.<br />
(+385-) 098 40 33 22/(+385-23) 32 50 25. A well-kept<br />
secret - an old s<strong>to</strong>ne house with only five or six tables. All the<br />
food and wine is excellent (as are the prices), but those in<br />
the know say it’s a good place in Zadar for oc<strong>to</strong>pus cooked<br />
ispod peke style. Bokanjac is just outside Zadar in the<br />
direction of Pag (see a good road map). When you reach the<br />
old village of Stari Bokanjac, you’ll see signs for the konoba.<br />
You have <strong>to</strong> order what you want <strong>to</strong> eat a day in advance,<br />
because everything is specially bought and prepared - call in,<br />
or phone. Very special. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00. (65 - 100kn).<br />
PLNGBX<br />
Lamb<br />
The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would<br />
otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy <strong>to</strong> spend<br />
hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms<br />
the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast<br />
it’s much easier <strong>to</strong> find lamb, which Dalmatians rave<br />
about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine<br />
and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb<br />
from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are<br />
the best places <strong>to</strong> eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na<br />
ražnju) in and around Zadar.<br />
Sabunjar Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55,<br />
<strong>to</strong>mislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Tipped by locals as one of<br />
the best places in <strong>to</strong>wn for lamb. Take the main road <strong>to</strong><br />
Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets<br />
Merkur and Getro. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn).<br />
PALGBX<br />
Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00,<br />
info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr.<br />
A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal<br />
grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast<br />
lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of<br />
Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(75 - 120kn). ALGBX<br />
Hungry for more?<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Out of <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass<br />
by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd’s old<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn in a quiet corner by St Anastasia’s Church, the garden<br />
is the main attraction, green and cool with creeping vines,<br />
with a clay pizza oven and bright with sunshine. Q Open<br />
15:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 45kn).<br />
PNGBX<br />
Griblja Trg Ruševac, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 37<br />
00, info@konoba-griblja.com, www.konoba-griblja.com.<br />
Named after a traditional local farming <strong>to</strong>ol, this two s<strong>to</strong>rey<br />
old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully res<strong>to</strong>red<br />
and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely<br />
arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a<br />
block full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great<br />
wine selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (55 - 380kn). PAGB<br />
Kaleta Ul. pape Ivana Pavla II, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23)<br />
39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37. “Kaleta” means “alley”<br />
in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a<br />
warren of s<strong>to</strong>ne passages that lead you <strong>to</strong> the seating areas.<br />
They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works,<br />
and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try<br />
their Pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with<br />
home made gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 24:00. (70 - 200kn). PAGB<br />
Kod Guste Sukošan bb, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33<br />
03, augustin.devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kod-guste.hr. A<br />
very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and<br />
reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended).<br />
Try the crni rižo<strong>to</strong> (risot<strong>to</strong> with squid ink). QOpen 16:00 -<br />
23:00. (65 - 350kn). PNG<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
26 Restaurants<br />
Restaurants<br />
27<br />
Konoba Branimir Višeslavov trg 2, Nin, tel. (+385-23)<br />
26 48 66/(+385-) 091 587 08 39. A wonderful, haciendastyle<br />
terrace overlooking the tiny white Church of the Holy<br />
Cross in Nin, the foundation s<strong>to</strong>ne of Christianity in Croatia. So,<br />
it’s fair <strong>to</strong> say that it is, ahem, blessed with one of the finest<br />
views in the country. See the s<strong>to</strong>ne fireplace inside made from<br />
an altar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (45 - 90kn). AGB<br />
Konoba Grmalj Premuda 10, Premuda Island, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 37 66 65, konoba.grmalj@gmail.com. A little<br />
terrace near the Krijal bay on the western part of the island.<br />
A gorgeous location <strong>to</strong> try lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish)<br />
ispod peke. People claim that kid goat is a better meat than<br />
lamb as it’s not so greasy and has a more delicate flavour.<br />
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). NGBX<br />
Cake & Ice Cream<br />
Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation<br />
of the human race in summer. While you can buy the<br />
usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is<br />
the Croatian brand we’ve known since childhood), don’t<br />
be shy <strong>to</strong> try the homemade stuff in a slastičarnica.<br />
The water and milk here is fine, so there should be<br />
nothing <strong>to</strong> upset your tum.<br />
Slastičarnice are temples <strong>to</strong> all things sweet. You can<br />
also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting<br />
choice of alcohol. Nik-o-Teen beware: often, you can’t<br />
smoke. (These are children-friendly establishments,<br />
after all).<br />
Probably the most popular cake in Croatia is<br />
kremšnita - a thick layer of vanilla cream sandwiched<br />
between two layers of light pastry. It’s not <strong>to</strong>o heavy,<br />
so perfect if you fancy a sweet little something in hot<br />
weather.<br />
Danica C-3, Široka ulica 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 10<br />
16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very<br />
popular because of the good selection of cakes from the<br />
local fac<strong>to</strong>ry in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB<br />
Donat B-3, Trg Sv.S<strong>to</strong>šije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29,<br />
info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Many Zadar folks<br />
reckon this <strong>to</strong> be the best ice cream in <strong>to</strong>wn. The cookie<br />
dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. PNGB<br />
Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Good<br />
cake and ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB<br />
Luce C-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 25 05 14. A clean and modern place with a super<br />
terrace on the square outside St Chrysogonus’ Church.<br />
You can pick up a sandwich, <strong>to</strong>o. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Closed Sun. PNB<br />
Miami Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 1, Biograd. Just at<br />
the beginning of Biograd’s Riva - the <strong>to</strong>wn’s waterside<br />
promenade. It’s a great place <strong>to</strong> linger over one of their<br />
home made cakes or their special Kup Miami sundae<br />
and watch the passers by. Or call in for an ice cream <strong>to</strong><br />
accompany your after dinner evening stroll. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. PNGB<br />
Become a fan of Zadar<br />
In Your Pocket on<br />
Konoba Pece Prilaz Drage 2,Vinjerac, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 27 50 69, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. We heartily<br />
recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region,<br />
with a lovely view from a little hill<strong>to</strong>p. The homely interior was<br />
hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef.<br />
He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a<br />
personal <strong>to</strong>uch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To<br />
get <strong>to</strong> the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the<br />
Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge.<br />
Book in advance. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn).<br />
A6LGBX<br />
Na Tale Stjepana Radića 2, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 11<br />
94/(+385-) 098 44 98 57, frano.valentic@zd.t-com.hr,<br />
www.ljubica.hr. A pleasant restaurant at the beginning<br />
of Pag <strong>to</strong>wn’s waterfront promenade, with terrace seating<br />
overlooking the sea or in a shady garden. A wide range of<br />
Mediterranean food, including pizzas, steaks grilled fish and<br />
lamb - the restaurant’s speciality. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 355kn). PAGBX<br />
Tony Kožino II 74a, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32<br />
99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12. Dalmatian specialities and<br />
international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked<br />
on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on<br />
the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff.<br />
On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (25 - 150kn). PALGBX<br />
Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 38 54 82/(+385-) 091 544 90 39, frane.<br />
jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor.hr. The kind and helpful<br />
staff will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly<br />
seafood with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely<br />
spot on Biograd’s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside,<br />
look out for motifs of life here in times gone by. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). AGBX<br />
Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park,<br />
tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, www.aci-club.hr. At the<br />
Marina, a great place <strong>to</strong> wind down at the end of a day<br />
sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of the<br />
same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable lobster.<br />
Thorougly recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 -<br />
110kn). AGBX<br />
Pizza<br />
Pizza is so ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us it surely must count as a national<br />
food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is<br />
quick, inexpensive - and yummy.<br />
Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza.<br />
QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). PALB<br />
Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42<br />
46. Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla,<br />
the road that leads from central Zadar <strong>to</strong> the Borik resort<br />
area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and<br />
economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza <strong>to</strong>ppings<br />
are a bit more generous than the thin smears of <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> you<br />
get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four<br />
seasons turned out <strong>to</strong> be pretty tasty. And by the time we got<br />
on<strong>to</strong> the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled<br />
meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(28 - 200kn). PNGB<br />
Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48<br />
48. A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for<br />
superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great<br />
pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and<br />
an underground garage <strong>to</strong> keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNGBX<br />
Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90.<br />
Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having<br />
been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). PNB<br />
Seafood<br />
Less homey than konobas but good places <strong>to</strong> try the local<br />
catch in a more upscale ambience.<br />
Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31<br />
44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best<br />
places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with<br />
a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant<br />
is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 23:30. (70 - 450kn). PJAGBX<br />
Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +385-<br />
23) 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and<br />
home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road<br />
west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(75 - 330kn). PALGBX<br />
Niko G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotel-niko.<br />
hr. An institution - not only one of the best hotels but also<br />
one of the best restaurants in <strong>to</strong>wn. It’s a great place <strong>to</strong> eat<br />
seafood. We recommend it for a special treat - but it’s not<br />
shockingly expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn).<br />
PALG<br />
Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. A family<br />
restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for<br />
its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge<br />
portions - try the delicious oc<strong>to</strong>pus salad or anything seafood.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 350kn).<br />
PALGBX<br />
Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the<br />
water’s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar’s<br />
best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still<br />
their strong point. However, the overall experience, including<br />
the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB<br />
Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 75 70, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. A<br />
wonderful restaurant in a wonderful hotel in a wonderful Italian<br />
villa, with wonderful food and great surroundings... We need<br />
say little more except “try the tuna carpaccio”. Right by the<br />
Sphinx on the coast road between Puntamika and the centre.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PALGBX<br />
Thai<br />
Pearl of Siam G,J-3, Put Dikla 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 77<br />
13, www.pearlofsiam.com.hr. If spicy or the more exotic<br />
flavours are your cup of tea, then boy, does this place deliver?<br />
The cuisine has Thai food written all over it with a solid array<br />
of course dishes. The ambience is very casual, and the place -<br />
bright, neat and tidy with a little terrace by the pool. QOpen<br />
13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 100kn). PAGBX<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
The Gligora Cheese Fac<strong>to</strong>ry – nestled in the small<br />
village of Kolan, on the island of Pag <strong>to</strong>ok out major prizes<br />
at the World Cheese Championships in Birmingham,<br />
2010. Amongst the 2600 cheese from all around the<br />
world, their Paški cheese was proclaimed the best in<br />
three categories: sheep cheese, hard cheese and the<br />
finest new cheese <strong>to</strong> enter the world market.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
28 Restaurants<br />
CAFéS<br />
29<br />
Go Gourmet<br />
The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you<br />
can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A<br />
staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations,<br />
sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying<br />
ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction,<br />
the sardine is beginning <strong>to</strong> take her rightful place as the<br />
queen of the sea.<br />
They say there’s no better place <strong>to</strong> eat sardines than right<br />
on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater,<br />
dip them in flour, chuck them in<strong>to</strong> a pan of boiling oil, drain<br />
and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone,<br />
throwing the remains <strong>to</strong> the gulls. Try this at home - use<br />
plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy<br />
bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market.<br />
A rather more refined way <strong>to</strong> eat sardines is grilled in a<br />
special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded on<strong>to</strong> twigs if<br />
you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them - leave the first<br />
side <strong>to</strong> cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in<br />
olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh<br />
bread, local <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es and red wine.<br />
When the fešta is in <strong>to</strong>wn, you’ll have the opportunity <strong>to</strong><br />
try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good<br />
konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any<br />
number of alternative ways <strong>to</strong> eat these little bundles of<br />
goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a<br />
salad.Dalmatian cuisine consists of a healthy mix of fish,<br />
meat and vegetables with lashings of garlic and olive oil.<br />
That’s why the locals are so enviably tall, slim and clearskinned.<br />
Want some? Here’s the lowdown.<br />
Soup usually starts a meal, or treat yourself <strong>to</strong> pršut<br />
(cured ham) or Pag cheese. Marinated oc<strong>to</strong>pus salad<br />
(salata od hobotnice) makes a nice change or a light<br />
meal in itself in hot weather. Risot<strong>to</strong> is technically a starter<br />
but is normally enough for a main course. Seafood risot<strong>to</strong><br />
is delicious; the more daring may like <strong>to</strong> try black risot<strong>to</strong><br />
made with squid ink.<br />
Main courses usually consist of grilled meat or fish.<br />
(Na žaru = on the grill). High grade white fish (Zubatac,<br />
Brancin or Orada are among the tastiest) is priced by the<br />
kilo in restaurants, and is usually smothered in parsley,<br />
garlic, lemon and olive oil. We don’t offer a translation<br />
because it probably wouldn’t mean much <strong>to</strong> you. Cheaper<br />
options are mackerel (skuša), tuna (tunjevina), sardines<br />
(srdele) or squid (lignje), which are just as delicious.<br />
The classic accompaniment is blitva (chard, or mangold)<br />
which is normally cooked with pota<strong>to</strong>es. A beloved insult of<br />
the people in the rest of Croatia <strong>to</strong>wards the Dalmatians is<br />
“Blitvari”, meaning “Chard eaters”. Đuveđ is a vegetable<br />
dish not unlike rata<strong>to</strong>uille.<br />
A more unusual cooking style is ispod peka (roasted under<br />
an iron bell heaped with glowing ash). Oc<strong>to</strong>pus cooked in<br />
this way is truly a local delicacy, while škarpina is a lovely<br />
(and inexpensive) pink fish which can be prepared both<br />
this way, or as Brudet - a fish casserole typical of coastal<br />
home cooking, also excellent made with eel (ugor). A less<br />
attractive fishy friend is grdobina (“monster fish”), which<br />
despite appearances is sublime prepared as medallions<br />
wrapped in pršut.<br />
Seafood fans will be<br />
delighted with mussels<br />
(dagnje) or scampi<br />
cooked na buzaru -<br />
in garlic, herbs, white<br />
wine, and sometimes<br />
<strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>. Look out for<br />
oysters (kamenice)<br />
from Mali S<strong>to</strong>n - they’re<br />
the best.<br />
All meat is usually excellent. Look out for lamb grilled<br />
with herbs, or island lamb cooked on the spit (na ražnju).<br />
Soup made from lamb with vegetables is very special.<br />
Pašticada is a beef dish cooked with dessert wine and<br />
preserved fruit which enjoys a cult-like status in these<br />
parts, and for the real experience should be served with<br />
home-made gnocchi (njoki). You can also find good veal,<br />
especially tasty cooked with sage and pršut.<br />
A couple of weeks of that and we guarantee you shining<br />
eyes and a glossy coat.<br />
Drink<br />
Viniculture has always been an important part of life on the<br />
Adriatic and there are many fine Croatian wines. If you are<br />
eating in a traditional konoba, sometimes they will have<br />
home-made wine sold out of the barrel, cheap and fun <strong>to</strong><br />
try. Local whites are usually very drinkable, reds tend <strong>to</strong> be<br />
on the gentle side. If you’re unlucky and hit a bad example,<br />
just add mineral water.<br />
If you fancy trying posh wine, here are some names <strong>to</strong> look<br />
out for. But don’t be afraid <strong>to</strong> ask the waiter <strong>to</strong> recommend<br />
something - they may have something special in.<br />
Whites: Aenona (Marić estate), Maraština (Vinarija<br />
Benkovac) are both high-quality dry whites.<br />
Reds: Postup and Dingač are the most famous <strong>to</strong>p quality<br />
reds, both from the Pelješac peninsula in the south.<br />
Expensive, but worth it. Plavac is an indigenous grape,<br />
producing a powerful southern reds, the best examples<br />
are from Plenković and Zlatan Plančič, both from the island<br />
of Hvar. Babić from Primošten is a softer style.<br />
After your meal, local firewaters, or rakija, could be<br />
šljivovica (plum), travarica (herb), lozovača (grappa), but<br />
then again there’s nothing you can’t make rakija from! If<br />
they have home-made, try it - it’s light-years better than the<br />
shop-bought stuff. Pelinkovac is a local bitter, Prošek is a<br />
dessert wine. Definitely try maraschino cherry drinks.<br />
As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary<br />
sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s<br />
vital <strong>to</strong> have a chance <strong>to</strong> catch up with the day’s gossip<br />
over a macchia<strong>to</strong>. That means the coffee is usually<br />
good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available<br />
everywhere. A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white<br />
coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee <strong>to</strong>o.<br />
Boo <strong>to</strong> globalisation!<br />
72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those<br />
places where local characters congregate, and here they’re<br />
cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‘72, hence the<br />
name. It’s a friendly, unpretentious place with the cheapest<br />
beer in <strong>to</strong>wn at 13kn a bottle. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30.<br />
PBX<br />
Ambiental C-4, M. Pavlinovića 8. Artistic motif decorated<br />
with visions from Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Nice<br />
interior, quiet and cozy. Offers over 100 varieties of tea as<br />
well as sandwiches, croissants, over thirty types of chocolate<br />
beverages and has a nice view. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
PJNB<br />
Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A<br />
super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta<br />
night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian<br />
acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.<br />
Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 30 56 84. A super spot <strong>to</strong> sit and enjoy the buzz of<br />
conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome<br />
footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can<br />
pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. PGB<br />
Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com, www.<br />
callegro.com. The locals say that this café has the best<br />
coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes<br />
nearby that provide strong competition <strong>to</strong> such remarks, but<br />
what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view<br />
at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick<br />
back and watch other people strolling through the famous<br />
street Kalelarga! Q June, September Open 07:30 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 01:30, Sun<br />
08:00 - 01:30. PNGBX<br />
Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing<br />
this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R.<br />
Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty<br />
drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and<br />
outdoor seating, a nice place <strong>to</strong> relax and have a conversation.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PGBX<br />
Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is<br />
built on the ruins of Saint Catherine’s Church. That may<br />
explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas,<br />
different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. PJNB<br />
Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 37. A<br />
fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed<br />
by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous<br />
symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB<br />
Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most<br />
luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee<br />
and watching the sun go down. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />
PNGB<br />
Kampo A/B-3, Trg 3 bunara bb. For morning coffee...<br />
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. GBX<br />
Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21. Named after<br />
what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian<br />
ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once<br />
a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat.<br />
Still, it’s a good place <strong>to</strong> sit on the waterfront and enjoy<br />
coffee and cake, or even a game of pool. QOpen 06:30 -<br />
23:00. PNB<br />
Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The<br />
best location on Narodni trg, next <strong>to</strong> the City Sentinel, the<br />
interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want <strong>to</strong> sit<br />
inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful<br />
square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB<br />
Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable s<strong>to</strong>p on<br />
the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made<br />
by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.<br />
More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A<br />
cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea<br />
captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly<br />
character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX<br />
Mo<strong>to</strong> cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the<br />
northern part of <strong>to</strong>wn. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs<br />
out, and bikes hang within <strong>to</strong> make the point absolutely clear.<br />
QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PGBX<br />
Passage M-5, Bar<strong>to</strong>la Kašića 1. On the corner of a red<br />
brick building known by the locals as the “peglica” (little<br />
iron) because of its unusual triangular shape. On the Jazine<br />
bay at the beginning of the Old Town peninsula. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 22:00. PNB<br />
Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means<br />
everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or<br />
simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts<br />
enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and<br />
the <strong>to</strong>wer of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern<br />
and stylish. QOpen 06:30 - 01:30. PGBXW<br />
Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52<br />
75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight<br />
during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the<br />
beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages<br />
a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place <strong>to</strong> watch the<br />
sunset. Nice coffee mugs <strong>to</strong>o. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 24:00. PNB<br />
Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near<br />
the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX<br />
VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23)<br />
30 19 69. Next <strong>to</strong> the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay<br />
VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice<br />
cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful<br />
view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -<br />
03:00. BXW<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
Maraschino – a bittersweet liqueur that was served at<br />
the royal courts of the English Queen Vic<strong>to</strong>ria<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
30 Nightlife<br />
Nightlife<br />
31<br />
On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on<br />
benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo)<br />
are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither<br />
sceney nor divided in<strong>to</strong> old and young, so in most places<br />
you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people.<br />
While the Old Town is an atmospheric place <strong>to</strong> spend your<br />
evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik,<br />
Diklo and Kolovare, <strong>to</strong> catch the sea breeze and watch<br />
the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed <strong>to</strong> be the<br />
best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.<br />
Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be<br />
disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan<br />
lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture<br />
is. There are a handful of clubs which offer some decent<br />
nights, and a wide choice of bars <strong>to</strong> suit your tastes.<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>mat gambling<br />
Monaco Millions N-5, F. Tuđmana 14. The extreme joy<br />
that is handing money over <strong>to</strong> establishments more than<br />
willing <strong>to</strong> make the experience as easy as possible for you.<br />
Warning: mom is on<strong>to</strong> your sneaking-spare-change-from-herwallet<br />
move by the way is waiting <strong>to</strong> discuss what should be<br />
done about it with father when he comes home. You’re wise<br />
<strong>to</strong> be on high alert. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00.<br />
Armin Van Buuren<br />
Clubs<br />
Zadar doesn’t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners<br />
tend <strong>to</strong> try <strong>to</strong> cater for everyone, offering different kinds<br />
of music on different nights. At the time of going <strong>to</strong> press,<br />
in true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue<br />
what would be happening when this summer, so keep<br />
an eye out for flyers and posters. Here’s a general idea<br />
of what <strong>to</strong> expect. Apart from that, the good news is the<br />
crowd is always very mixed, and the appalling Europop you<br />
find in so many resorts is pretty much absent.<br />
City Club Forum M-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 324 07 89, forum.city.club@gmail.com. A smallish<br />
coliseum-shaped space with three bars an atmosphere of<br />
full-on hedonism <strong>to</strong> recall the fall of Rome. The music policy<br />
is flexible, but you can expect <strong>to</strong> find commercial house and<br />
r’n’b. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00.<br />
The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 25 06 31, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.<br />
watchthegardengrow.eu. Opened by two members of Brit<br />
reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden a<strong>to</strong>p the city<br />
walls used <strong>to</strong> be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia.<br />
Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a<br />
perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game<br />
of chess and hot summer nights <strong>to</strong> the tune of nu jazz, dub,<br />
latin, breaks and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 -<br />
01:30. JEBW<br />
Cocktail bars<br />
Barbara bar F-4, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra Radovana 7, Borik, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 20 61 00. Done out in classic lounge bar style,<br />
all wicker and white cushions, the Barbara Bar is a classy and<br />
comfortable spot <strong>to</strong> wind down after a hard day’s sunbathing<br />
or yachting on Borik. It’s inside the Funimation hotel in the<br />
Falkenstiener Borik hotel complex. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAGBX<br />
Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo. This brightlycoloured<br />
bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of<br />
Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively<br />
place <strong>to</strong> mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a<br />
few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 04:00. B<br />
Hangin’ out<br />
Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21<br />
13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy<br />
couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 01:00. B<br />
Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38<br />
21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com,<br />
www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service<br />
center in the 18th century, the arsenal now s<strong>to</strong>ckpiles his<strong>to</strong>ry,<br />
culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure<br />
offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s<br />
3000 year his<strong>to</strong>ry, life <strong>to</strong>day, and a peek in<strong>to</strong> the future. You<br />
can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts<br />
multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food<br />
or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres<br />
in Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar<br />
Tourist Board put their heads <strong>to</strong>gether so you can find all the<br />
<strong>to</strong>urist information you need. From accommodation <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>urs,<br />
Internet access and exchange facilities you will find them all<br />
at Arsenal. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.<br />
PTJAEBKW<br />
Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend <strong>to</strong><br />
congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PBX<br />
Brazil D-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace<br />
and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions.<br />
Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio,<br />
meaning it registers above average on the music taste-ometer<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNB<br />
Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after<br />
dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all<br />
crammed in<strong>to</strong> a little space in an atmospheric s<strong>to</strong>ne street.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B<br />
Corso C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 182<br />
77 41. Super-modern inside and with a pleasant terrace on<br />
the Riva, we hear that they are spinning great DJ parties at<br />
the weekends these days. The music policy is on the less<br />
annoying side of the dance spectrum. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
01:30. PNGB<br />
Dolce Vita C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, an<strong>to</strong>niomontana@<br />
net.hr. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce<br />
vita, i.e. the trendy crowd. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 -<br />
01:30. PJNBX<br />
Gagica G-4, A.G. Ma<strong>to</strong>ša 8, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 20,<br />
agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica’s his<strong>to</strong>ry goes back <strong>to</strong><br />
the 60’s, and it has been one of Zadar’s favourite bars ever<br />
since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as<br />
it’s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself.<br />
Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 03:00. NGBX<br />
Kult C-3, S<strong>to</strong>morica 6. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little<br />
park with a s<strong>to</strong>ne balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PJBX<br />
LLoyd B-3, Trg Sv. S<strong>to</strong>šije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08<br />
51. One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older<br />
crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the<br />
steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
PNGBX<br />
Lotus C-4, S<strong>to</strong>morica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe,<br />
unless you consider young people straining desperately<br />
<strong>to</strong> be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music<br />
confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 01:00. B<br />
Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out<br />
in the morning or afternoon and it’s a café/restaurant, head<br />
on down late evening and it transforms in<strong>to</strong> a night club.<br />
With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every<br />
excuse <strong>to</strong> sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00.<br />
PAGB<br />
Q Bar B-2, Liburnska obala 6. A good old thirst needs a<br />
good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs<br />
located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights<br />
are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly<br />
timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of<br />
the port and marina! QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PGBX<br />
Rio C-4, Putevac 5, ivan.antisin@zd.t-com.hr. Right by In<br />
Time, pretty relaxed and playing Latino and house. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. PB<br />
Sea organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Riva. Read all about<br />
Zadar’s sea organ - the only one in the world - in “What <strong>to</strong> see”,<br />
then head, equipped with your insider knowledge, <strong>to</strong> impress<br />
the chaps or chapesses that gather there by evening. It’s a<br />
nice place <strong>to</strong> lounge whilst listening <strong>to</strong> the sounds produced<br />
by the waves, and it’s a special experience at sunset.<br />
Shine C-4, M. Pavlinovića 16, tel. (+385-) 091 399 96<br />
01, info@barshine.hr, www.barshine.hr. Amongst the<br />
many hotspots, clubs and bars in Zadar, Shine has a certain<br />
glow about it. Positioned along the Riva, you can drop in <strong>to</strong><br />
this bar for some added fun whilst choosing from the riveting<br />
cocktails up for grabs QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PB<br />
The Fac<strong>to</strong>ry bar D-3, Poljana Pavla Pavlovića bb, tel.<br />
(+385-) 095 914 56 20, www.fac<strong>to</strong>rybar.hr. It is as if the<br />
interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex and the<br />
City’. Original walls, TV moni<strong>to</strong>rs and the general décor have<br />
wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees for<br />
a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:30. PNBX<br />
Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. On<br />
Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of<br />
the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at<br />
Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing<br />
shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the<br />
attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 01:30. PNBX<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
32 Nightlife<br />
What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
33<br />
Yachting Bar G-5, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra Radovana 7, Borik, tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 452 34 52. A super, modern bar by the Borik<br />
marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live<br />
music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail<br />
in<strong>to</strong> the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling<br />
peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, <strong>to</strong>asts<br />
and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate<br />
hunger satisfaction. QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PNBW<br />
Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few<br />
seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that<br />
gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge<br />
and drum’n’bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00.<br />
PNBX<br />
Out of <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-<br />
53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius.<br />
hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. If you’re looking for a true beach<br />
party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just<br />
outside the <strong>to</strong>wn of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven<br />
of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best<br />
club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places <strong>to</strong> eat<br />
and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime),<br />
and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool<br />
off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00<br />
- 24:00. BKC<br />
Barbarella’s Petrčane, Punta Radman, info@<br />
thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu.<br />
The Garden club people revive this legendary club space on<br />
a pine covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Super sundown<br />
cocktails, and Saturday parties with future jazz scene names.<br />
Open: Terrace 10:00 - 01:30; Coctail bar 12:00 - 01:30 and<br />
Night club 24:00 - 06:00. Q PAB<br />
Beach Bar Kalypso Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island.<br />
A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badmin<strong>to</strong>n), games<br />
and entertainment for young and old, fast food, cocktails and<br />
internet access. The late bar is pumping ‘til who knows - and<br />
who cares - when! Open ‘til late QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. B<br />
Beach Bar Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island,<br />
tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.<br />
papaya.com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring<br />
you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant<br />
areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming<br />
pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music<br />
and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident<br />
DJs and international guests playing varied music styles. Q<br />
Open 10:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. BC<br />
Carpy More Kralja Tvrtka 10, Biograd, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 38 61 19. In this beautifully renovated old building in<br />
Biograd’s old <strong>to</strong>wn, a Dalmatian pub has opened, all s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
walls and rough-hewn wooden furniture. It’s an airy space with<br />
comfortable seating and cosy antique details. Call <strong>to</strong> reserve<br />
a table. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. AGB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
SHM<br />
Lavender Bed Bar Hotel Adriatic, Tina Ujevića 7,<br />
Biograd, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.<br />
com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the<br />
Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxing<br />
ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music.<br />
As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you<br />
lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. AB<br />
Lounge Bar Miramare Vrulja 10, Preko, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 530 48 12, eventi@miramare-lounge.com, www.<br />
miramare-lounge.com. You are at the bar, you order your<br />
drink, and do a 180 degree turn as the sea breeze gently<br />
blows. This cool, hip lounge bar is located on the Preko<br />
waterfront on the island of Ugljan. Catch a 20 minute ferry<br />
form Zadar which takes you <strong>to</strong> Preko, ferries leave every 30<br />
minutes. Cocktails, jazz and soul music sessions are a hit and<br />
the bar is perfectly set up for those outdoor summer nights.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. NBJE<br />
Saturnus Za<strong>to</strong>n Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28<br />
02 80, info@za<strong>to</strong>n.hr, www.za<strong>to</strong>n.hr. A huge and popular<br />
nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close <strong>to</strong> the<br />
apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows<br />
at weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00.<br />
PLN<br />
Vanga Stara Riva bb, Pag Town, Pag Island, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 61 11 94, marija.valentic@zd.htnet.hr, www.ljubica.<br />
hr. A disco club named after an old local ferry, it’s open nons<strong>to</strong>p<br />
for fun, including karaoke and foam parties. QOpen<br />
16:00 - 03:00. B<br />
Pubs<br />
Kantun C-4, S<strong>to</strong>morica 5. Kantun (the Dalmatian for<br />
“corner”) is situated on a crossroads (called Kantun) that is a<br />
hub for the hep cats of Zadar. The only place with a simple pub<br />
feel and a music policy that proudly announces itself: Raaawk!<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PBX<br />
Pop your cherry<br />
One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local<br />
Maraschino cherries – a particularly aromatic variety, a<br />
little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when<br />
sugared up <strong>to</strong> the max.<br />
As we all know, it’s the quiet ones you have <strong>to</strong> watch, and,<br />
like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal<br />
clear and syrupy) was first made by 16 th Century monks, who<br />
called it “sun dew”. Apparently the fruits and young leaves<br />
of the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness<br />
of sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would<br />
be imbued with positive effects.<br />
The city’s Maraska fac<strong>to</strong>ry is the yellow building on the<br />
mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing<br />
alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well<br />
as other drinks, for years. It’s something which the locals<br />
are rightly proud of.<br />
Alright, so having your city razed <strong>to</strong> the ground every few<br />
hundred years might have its drawbacks - but look on the<br />
bright side! The legacy of constant rebuilding has given<br />
Zadar a uniquely rich architecture, and there can be few<br />
places on Earth with such diverse influences crammed<br />
in<strong>to</strong> one small area.<br />
Essential Zadar<br />
City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the<br />
largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first<br />
Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was<br />
the site of a temple dedicated <strong>to</strong> Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To<br />
one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people<br />
were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away<br />
and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum<br />
also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers<br />
and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade<br />
where shops and workshops once s<strong>to</strong>od. The site was<br />
only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently<br />
assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely<br />
cleared and res<strong>to</strong>red between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most<br />
beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are<br />
still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>uch<br />
or sit on the s<strong>to</strong>nes. Take time one evening <strong>to</strong> sit and imagine<br />
the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples<br />
and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that <strong>to</strong>ok place on the<br />
very altars you can see on this spot.<br />
City Forum, Stjepan Felber<br />
City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had<br />
several entrances knocked through them at more confident<br />
points in Zadar’s his<strong>to</strong>ry. Some of them were walled up for<br />
good, but four remain as the vital link between the <strong>to</strong>wn within<br />
the walls and the sea outside them.<br />
The Venetians built<br />
the Land Gate - then<br />
the main entrance in<strong>to</strong><br />
the city - on the little<br />
Foša harbour in 1543.<br />
It’s considered one of<br />
the finest monuments<br />
of the Venetian rule in<br />
Dalmatia, and has the<br />
form of a triumphal<br />
arch with a central<br />
passage for wheeled<br />
t r a ff i c , a n d t w o<br />
smaller side arches<br />
fo r p e d e s t r i a n s .<br />
It’s decorated with<br />
motifs such as St<br />
Chrysogonus (Zadar’s<br />
main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the<br />
coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area<br />
had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.<br />
Between the ferryport and market is the Harbour Gate (also<br />
known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity <strong>to</strong><br />
the church of the same name), built in 1573 <strong>to</strong> celebrate the<br />
vic<strong>to</strong>ry of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepan<strong>to</strong>. Near<br />
the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge<br />
Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago,<br />
and leading directly <strong>to</strong> Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further<br />
west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate,<br />
named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square<br />
with the harbour area.<br />
City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by<br />
the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once<br />
was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.<br />
With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves<br />
as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the<br />
international pho<strong>to</strong>graphy triennial “Man and the Sea” and<br />
the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed.<br />
Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.<br />
Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance<br />
style, with a large central clock <strong>to</strong>wer and a surrounding s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions).<br />
The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the<br />
National Museum, one of the most important collections in the<br />
country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national<br />
costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural,<br />
fishing and household objects. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 5 -10kn.<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
Saint Donatus Church (9th century AD)<br />
City <strong>to</strong>urs<br />
Love gods take note. The most romantic way <strong>to</strong> visit<br />
the Old Town for the first time is <strong>to</strong> catch the little red<br />
rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the<br />
Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the<br />
footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat<br />
here for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but<br />
these Dalmatians are a hardy lot.Seriously, this is a<br />
famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart<br />
from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine<br />
bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only<br />
5kn.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
34 What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
35<br />
City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest<br />
city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls<br />
allowed it <strong>to</strong> retain more of its independence than most of<br />
its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured<br />
by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications<br />
than there are now, but what are left are put <strong>to</strong> good use,<br />
with delightful parks and promenades on <strong>to</strong>p of them (see<br />
below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells<br />
Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used<br />
as military s<strong>to</strong>rage facilities.On <strong>to</strong>p of the bastion above the<br />
Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful<br />
vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people<br />
crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there<br />
is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.<br />
Cultural Heritage<br />
St Donatus’ Church, Stjepan Felber<br />
Research Library and His<strong>to</strong>rical Archive Zadar’s<br />
Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution<br />
of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb.<br />
It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefac<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia<br />
on Narodni trg, moving in<strong>to</strong> the present building, an<br />
attractive yellow building which used <strong>to</strong> be a barracks.<br />
It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural<br />
and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar<br />
was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia,<br />
under many colonial powers. The documentation kept<br />
here, and in the His<strong>to</strong>rical Archive (near St Dimitri’s<br />
church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s<br />
legal and political past.<br />
St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. S<strong>to</strong>šije)<br />
B-3, Trg svete S<strong>to</strong>šije. An attractive Romanesque cathedral<br />
- the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th<br />
centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is<br />
separate. You can climb <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p - the view is amazing. Two<br />
attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery<br />
of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing<br />
seating for pigeons <strong>to</strong> look down on the throngs on the<br />
Kalelarga. Simple s<strong>to</strong>ne blocks are lightened with decorative<br />
friezes, and the lovely s<strong>to</strong>nemasonry around the doors is<br />
worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved<br />
choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.<br />
St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana<br />
pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely<br />
harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-<br />
Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar<br />
and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular<br />
shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was<br />
founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of<br />
the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years<br />
later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no<br />
longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics<br />
and is used as the concert venue for the annual International<br />
Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The<br />
Musical Evenings in St Donatus’”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Closed December - April Admission 12 -15kn.<br />
The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.<br />
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a<br />
place <strong>to</strong> enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside <strong>to</strong>wns. When<br />
people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant<br />
promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called<br />
Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until<br />
the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by<br />
an outer ring of fortifications, needed <strong>to</strong> keep invaders at<br />
bay. When the Austrians <strong>to</strong>ok over the administration of<br />
Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding<br />
the beautiful parks on <strong>to</strong>p of parts of Zadar’s system of<br />
fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The<br />
Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is<br />
the site of the stunning University building, and is a great<br />
place <strong>to</strong> stroll either in the evenings or even <strong>to</strong> have a dip<br />
by day.<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
The Zadar sunset<br />
The Riva, Stjepan Felber<br />
Statue of Petar Zoranić<br />
On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with<br />
rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of<br />
the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of<br />
a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding<br />
mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme<br />
in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pas<strong>to</strong>ral<br />
romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at<br />
that time - a time when the city was under siege by the<br />
Turks, but art and culture prospered within.<br />
Churches<br />
When you look in<strong>to</strong> it, you could be forgiven for thinking<br />
that all the people of Zadar have done through the<br />
centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a<br />
good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing,<br />
and how rich that life has been. Here are the main<br />
highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass<br />
- each has its own timetable. All churches expect you <strong>to</strong><br />
cover up: short shorts and tiny <strong>to</strong>ps will not only raise<br />
eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused<br />
admittance.<br />
Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od<br />
“Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green<br />
park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the<br />
little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s<br />
best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of<br />
Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older<br />
churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady<br />
of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent<br />
Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the<br />
City of Zadar ).<br />
Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” S<strong>to</strong>morica (Crkva<br />
sv. Marije “de Pusterla” S<strong>to</strong>morica) C-4, Mihovila<br />
Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian<br />
church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb<br />
on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in<br />
the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the<br />
five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church<br />
architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the<br />
central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.<br />
St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva<br />
sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića<br />
Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora<br />
and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the<br />
simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th<br />
century facade, but other parts date back <strong>to</strong> the 5th and 6th<br />
centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church<br />
of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both<br />
contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric<br />
interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.<br />
St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)<br />
C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved<br />
little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally<br />
belonging <strong>to</strong> a Benedictine monastery that once s<strong>to</strong>od<br />
nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are<br />
delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and <strong>to</strong> the rear three<br />
semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery.<br />
The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of<br />
frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were<br />
spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s<br />
four patron saints were erected on the altar.<br />
St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4,<br />
Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of<br />
Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in<br />
1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual<br />
central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and<br />
two of the buildings now house the His<strong>to</strong>rical Archives, the<br />
University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy<br />
of Arts and Sciences.<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
Saint Mary’s Church Campanile from 1105<br />
Zadar’s Protection Squad<br />
Zadar has four patron saints. If that seems a bit excessive,<br />
read the His<strong>to</strong>ry section, you’ll soon understand why.<br />
Here’s the gang:<br />
St Simeon - Sveti Šimun<br />
Saint Simeon (or Simon) is said <strong>to</strong> have been present at<br />
the birth of Jesus, which is probably why women wishing<br />
<strong>to</strong> bear a son appeal <strong>to</strong> him. This also explains why he is<br />
the most popular patron saint: around here, the birth of<br />
a son occasions much quaffing of rakija and Tarzan-like<br />
chest-beating. The saint’s body is kept in an amazing<br />
casket which is opened every year on Oc<strong>to</strong>ber 8 (see<br />
Essential Zadar).<br />
St Chrysogonus - Sveti Krševan<br />
St Chrysogonus (or Grisogono in Italian) is the main patron<br />
saint of the city: the City of Zadar Day celebrations are<br />
always held on St Chrysogonus’ day (November 24).<br />
You can see him riding a horse on Zadar’s coat of arms<br />
and flag. He was persecuted and beheaded by Roman<br />
Emperor Diocletian (who built the palace at Split).<br />
St Anastasia - Sveta S<strong>to</strong>šija<br />
St Anastasia was also martyred under Diocletian, and is<br />
also said <strong>to</strong> have been present at the birth of Christ. She<br />
cared for persecuted Christians, and unfortunately met<br />
the same fate herself - she was <strong>to</strong>rtured and beheaded.<br />
Her remains now lie in a marble reliquary in the Cathedral,<br />
which is dedicated <strong>to</strong> her.<br />
St Zoilo - (no translation available)<br />
The least well-known of Zadar’s keepers, St Zoilo<br />
rescued St Chrysogonus’ body when it was washed<br />
up on the shore, and buried it at his home in Venice.<br />
Although Chrysogonus had been beheaded, his body was<br />
miraculously whole. For this and other kind acts, St Zoilo’s<br />
relics were brought <strong>to</strong> Zadar after his death.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
36 What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
37<br />
Asseria<br />
At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the<br />
remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long.<br />
Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot<br />
on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian<br />
tribe, whose terri<strong>to</strong>ries stretched for miles along the<br />
eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied<br />
these lands, Asseria grew <strong>to</strong> become a municipality with<br />
a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came <strong>to</strong> an<br />
end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across<br />
the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled.<br />
The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th<br />
century. You can also see remains from the days when<br />
this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin<br />
(Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth<br />
of the river Karišnica, where it widens in<strong>to</strong> the lagoon<br />
named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming<br />
and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine<br />
example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century<br />
Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine<br />
monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a<br />
beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.<br />
St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3,<br />
Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had<br />
an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged <strong>to</strong><br />
a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in<br />
Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon <strong>to</strong>ok Zadar in 1805,<br />
he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church in<strong>to</strong><br />
a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has<br />
recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex<br />
is now home <strong>to</strong> Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed<br />
Puppet Theatre.<br />
St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city’s<br />
Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and<br />
sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands<br />
just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing<br />
extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the<br />
moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of<br />
the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons<br />
spanning the 16th <strong>to</strong> 18th centuries.<br />
St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery<br />
(Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)<br />
A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68.<br />
Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic<br />
church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and<br />
Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks.<br />
The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace<br />
treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of<br />
Igor Neuhausler<br />
attacks on the city and handed it <strong>to</strong> the protection of the<br />
Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth<br />
seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral<br />
Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful<br />
Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like <strong>to</strong> come here<br />
for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011,<br />
during res<strong>to</strong>ration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely<br />
covered in heads<strong>to</strong>nes from between the 14th and the 19th<br />
centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00.<br />
Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka<br />
ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th<br />
century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached<br />
through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small<br />
and simple, but architecturally rich.<br />
St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice<br />
Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and<br />
belonging <strong>to</strong> a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church<br />
was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the<br />
Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its<br />
rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of<br />
early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings<br />
contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious<br />
Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a<br />
beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s<br />
interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures,<br />
the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for<br />
free. Bless!<br />
St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3,<br />
Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and<br />
Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage<br />
of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief<br />
on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and<br />
St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and<br />
added <strong>to</strong> in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th<br />
century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint<br />
Michael on the high altar.<br />
St Nediljice’s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3.<br />
An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is<br />
displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see<br />
The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).<br />
St Nicholas’s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3.<br />
The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque<br />
styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close<br />
<strong>to</strong> St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque bell<strong>to</strong>wer lie in<br />
the courtyard. There are current attempts <strong>to</strong> save it from<br />
the ravages of his<strong>to</strong>ry - Napoleon’s armies converted it<br />
in<strong>to</strong> a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged<br />
the exterior.<br />
St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg<br />
Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. East of Narodni<br />
trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint<br />
of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone<br />
alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the<br />
terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison<br />
with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean<br />
aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary<br />
of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver<br />
Casket of St Simeon ).<br />
St Thomas’s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The<br />
remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the<br />
corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića<br />
Benje, were knocked down in 1822 <strong>to</strong> make way for a school,<br />
rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was res<strong>to</strong>red, now<br />
forming the facade of a shop. Some of the s<strong>to</strong>ne furniture of<br />
the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.<br />
Landmarks<br />
City Market (Pijaca) C-2, Pod Bedemom bb. In most<br />
Dalmatian <strong>to</strong>wns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and<br />
Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since<br />
the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back <strong>to</strong><br />
WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn. Some around the edge of the square are only just<br />
being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find<br />
mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and<br />
more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old<br />
ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese<br />
- usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The<br />
indoor meat market is <strong>to</strong> one side of the square, and the fish<br />
market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud<br />
locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side<br />
is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac,<br />
great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap<br />
snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.<br />
Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3, Trg 5 bunara.<br />
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city<br />
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water<br />
cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish<br />
threat ended, a park was built on <strong>to</strong>p of the nearby bastion,<br />
and nowadays the attractive s<strong>to</strong>ne-flagged park serves as<br />
the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.<br />
Five Wells Square, Stjepan Felber<br />
Greeting <strong>to</strong> the Sun A-3. Witness this unique chance <strong>to</strong><br />
see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute <strong>to</strong> the sun’ by<br />
the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the<br />
11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the<br />
Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible,<br />
musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert<br />
on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made<br />
significant contributions.<br />
The First Croatian University<br />
Zadar - the First Croatian University By St<br />
Dominic’s church stands an attractive old white s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
building, part of the Dominican monastery complex, with<br />
a plaque proclaiming its pride in being the first site of a<br />
University on Croatian soil. Established in 1396 by the<br />
Dominican monks, this puts Zadar up there with famous<br />
seats of learning such as Cambridge and Barcelona<br />
(1303), Heidelberg (1385), Charles University Prague<br />
(1348), (but not quite so old as Padova (1222) and Paris<br />
(1229). Zadar’s University focuses on humanities, and<br />
one can’t help envying those students: one look at the<br />
yellow Faculty on the Riva shows you that there are worse<br />
places <strong>to</strong> be than by the sea…<br />
Statue of Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow<br />
staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none<br />
other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in<br />
natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He<br />
was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official.<br />
Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the<br />
Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does<br />
that shell contain?<br />
Sea organ, Stjepan Felber<br />
The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet<br />
bunara. A pentagonal <strong>to</strong>wer on the Five Wells Square, built by<br />
the Venetians <strong>to</strong> strengthen the city against Turkish attacks.<br />
It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city<br />
captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.<br />
The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko<br />
groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly<br />
thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have <strong>to</strong><br />
be mentioned some of the highest quality s<strong>to</strong>nework is on<br />
display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof<br />
of that, and <strong>to</strong> be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s<br />
really not all that morbid.<br />
The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja<br />
Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something<br />
absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by<br />
the sea. It’s an art installation designed <strong>to</strong> let people enjoy<br />
the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new<br />
pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple,<br />
elegant s<strong>to</strong>ne steps have been built on the quayside, perfect<br />
for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with<br />
openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea<br />
pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity<br />
of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen <strong>to</strong> the<br />
ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can<br />
bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or<br />
enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving <strong>to</strong> be an extremely<br />
popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life <strong>to</strong> a new<br />
part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić,<br />
and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter<br />
engineered the organ itself.<br />
Museums<br />
Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3,<br />
Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, arheoloskimuzej-zadar@zd.htnet.hr,<br />
www.amzd.hr. On the Forum<br />
square is the low, modern building of the Archeological<br />
Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from<br />
Prehis<strong>to</strong>ric times through <strong>to</strong> the first Croatian settlements.<br />
For a chronological <strong>to</strong>ur, it makes sense <strong>to</strong> go directly <strong>to</strong><br />
the prehis<strong>to</strong>ric exhibition on the second floor, which covers<br />
decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
38 What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
What <strong>to</strong> see<br />
39<br />
Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor<br />
covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians<br />
(1st century BC) <strong>to</strong> the widescale Roman settlement (6th<br />
century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local<br />
necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung<br />
parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd<br />
century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a<br />
reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a<br />
smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity<br />
in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine<br />
period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths.<br />
The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th <strong>to</strong> 11th centuries)<br />
contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and<br />
s<strong>to</strong>ne furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 12 - 15kn.<br />
National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2,<br />
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51.<br />
The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban<br />
development of Zadar from the Baroque <strong>to</strong> the first half of the<br />
19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture<br />
and (particularly recommended) early pho<strong>to</strong>graphy. There are<br />
also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific<br />
section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace<br />
(see Palaces). The Zadar National Museum consists of the<br />
Zadar City Museum, the Natural Science Department and the<br />
Ethnological Department. Tickets are purchased seperately<br />
for each department. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 15kn.<br />
The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog<br />
stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.<br />
hr. The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions.<br />
It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has<br />
some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The<br />
museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman<br />
glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and<br />
vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia.<br />
Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies<br />
<strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>re perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look<br />
out for glass cups used <strong>to</strong> celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in<br />
which holy water was s<strong>to</strong>red. Take the opportunity <strong>to</strong> see the<br />
replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest<br />
souvenir-s<strong>to</strong>ps in the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Open July -<br />
Oc<strong>to</strong>ber Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.<br />
Legend of Saint Anastasia<br />
Under the reign of Emperor Diocletian at around the<br />
4th century AD, Christians were persecuted in great<br />
numbers and a young girl by the name of Anastasia was<br />
secretly raised in the holy faith. Of noble descent, she<br />
was forced in<strong>to</strong> an arranged marriage <strong>to</strong> a Roman pagan<br />
named Publius and was soon after put under house<br />
arrest because she wanted <strong>to</strong> remain a virgin - a sign of<br />
her piety and faith. Anastasia was in a loveless marriage<br />
that so many women had <strong>to</strong> endure in those days. After<br />
her husband’s death, she went <strong>to</strong> Aquileia accompanying<br />
Saint Chrysogonus where she testified <strong>to</strong> his martyrdom.<br />
According <strong>to</strong> one of numerous legends, she was <strong>to</strong>rtured<br />
during the reign of Emperor Diocletian and was burned<br />
at the stake. Her relics were moved <strong>to</strong> Constantinople in<br />
the 5th century and Zadar bishop Donatus received them<br />
as a gift from the emperor Nicephor I as a sign of peace<br />
between Byzantine and Zadar. Her remains were moved<br />
<strong>to</strong> Zadar and were placed in a s<strong>to</strong>ne sarcophagus in Saint<br />
Peter’s Church which has from then on been called the<br />
Church of Saint Anastasia.<br />
Palaces<br />
Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3.<br />
Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy<br />
<strong>to</strong> Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central<br />
Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building<br />
adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department<br />
of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and fauna, including<br />
sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from all over the<br />
world. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn).<br />
Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime<br />
Budinića. Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the<br />
Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date<br />
back <strong>to</strong> the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example<br />
of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction<br />
after damage in the 1990s war.<br />
Knight’s Palace<br />
Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i<br />
Petrizio) D/C -3. Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive<br />
Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance<br />
palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular<br />
the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th<br />
and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant<br />
bombardment by enemies.<br />
Palace Grisogono (Palača Grisogono) D-3. Another<br />
palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive<br />
Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally<br />
consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the<br />
16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination<br />
of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is<br />
well worth a look.<br />
Parks<br />
Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice<br />
Jelene-Madijevka) D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park is not<br />
the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named<br />
after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on <strong>to</strong>p of the<br />
Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian<br />
commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a<br />
passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was<br />
the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on <strong>to</strong>p<br />
of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is<br />
eternally grateful for.<br />
Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora)<br />
E-3. Named since WWII after one of the most famous<br />
Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on <strong>to</strong>p of the city’s<br />
biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate.<br />
It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin<br />
Blažekovic, born <strong>to</strong> a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).<br />
Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of<br />
Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused<br />
<strong>to</strong> concede them. He left something beautiful <strong>to</strong> the city - a<br />
richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an<br />
elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years<br />
after it was completed, and the park was named after him<br />
- against his wishes.<br />
Religious collection<br />
Silver and Gold of the<br />
City of Zadar (Zla<strong>to</strong> i<br />
srebro Zadra) B-3, Trg<br />
opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 25 04 96/(+385-23)<br />
25 48 20. If you come <strong>to</strong><br />
Zadar you must see the<br />
Forum and St Donatus. If<br />
you only see one other thing,<br />
make it the Silver and Gold<br />
of Zadar. It’s housed in the<br />
Benedictine convent of St<br />
Mary’s, where it has been<br />
guarded by nuns since the<br />
end of the Second World<br />
War. It forms the Permanent<br />
Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural<br />
reposi<strong>to</strong>ries in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods<br />
of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and<br />
silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the<br />
city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between<br />
the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries<br />
for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and<br />
heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven<br />
with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in<br />
intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed<br />
<strong>to</strong> leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> Workshop in Sestrunj<br />
ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former<br />
chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.<br />
Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00.<br />
Admission 15 - 20kn.<br />
Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv.<br />
Šime) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17<br />
05. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket<br />
on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze<br />
angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protec<strong>to</strong>r<br />
of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of<br />
Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest<br />
examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and<br />
out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and<br />
the city’s his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St<br />
Simeon from the Holy Land <strong>to</strong> Venice was caught in a s<strong>to</strong>rm,<br />
and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the<br />
body buried, but <strong>to</strong>ld the nurses taking care of him that they<br />
would find something interesting in his documents. They found<br />
an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and<br />
asked three local priests <strong>to</strong> dig up the grave that night. Not yet<br />
knowing the true <strong>nature</strong> of the occupant of the grave, visions<br />
appeared <strong>to</strong> them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar<br />
ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily<br />
and his remains will be shown <strong>to</strong> the public on his patron day,<br />
Oc<strong>to</strong>ber the 8th. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00.<br />
The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis’ Monastery<br />
(Riznica samostana sv. Frane) Trg sv. Frane 1, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 25 04 68. The monastery has a rich collection<br />
of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century<br />
painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych<br />
from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic<br />
painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula,<br />
documents, liturgical vessels and more. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
40 Mail & Phones<br />
Getting around<br />
41<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
Roman Forum (1st century AD)<br />
Making the call<br />
Express mail<br />
City Ex N - 4, Put murvice 26 a, tel. (+385-23) 30 90 99,<br />
zadar@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
DHL E-1, Postrojbi specijalne policije 12, tel. (+385-23)<br />
22 44 44/(+385-) 098 47 30 32, www.dhl.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Internet places<br />
Acme B-3, Nikole Matafara 2a, tel. (+385-23) 25 07<br />
08, klub@zadarsnova.hr. A big internet centre combined<br />
with a gallery space. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 10kn / 30min,<br />
15kn / 1h.<br />
Marina Dalmacija Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete<br />
Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00,<br />
www.marinadalmacija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. W<br />
Vip Internet caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb,<br />
tel. (+385-) 091 77 00. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 06:00.<br />
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,<br />
and are ready <strong>to</strong> take the plunge (let’s hope you<br />
decided not <strong>to</strong> drop that tricky calculus course):<br />
Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s sixor<br />
seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver<br />
<strong>to</strong> your ear.<br />
National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023 if you’re<br />
calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber’s<br />
number.<br />
Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code),<br />
the appropriate country code, a city or area code if<br />
applicable and the subscriber’s number.<br />
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international<br />
access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code<br />
(dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.<br />
Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits<br />
and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial<br />
the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For<br />
an international call <strong>to</strong> a Croatian mobile, dial your<br />
international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the<br />
0, and then dial the remaining digits.<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Mobile phone use in Zadar is typical <strong>to</strong> most everywhere<br />
in Europe: they appear <strong>to</strong> be permanent growths that<br />
have attached themselves <strong>to</strong> ears or cheeks. Unique<br />
however, are the numerous and exciting <strong>to</strong>nal renditions<br />
of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the<br />
most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and<br />
cinemas remain the only structures holy enough <strong>to</strong><br />
warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central<br />
European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091),<br />
T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can<br />
be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in<br />
news kiosks, or <strong>to</strong>p up at a cash machine. SIM Cards<br />
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.<br />
They all have numerous selling points throughout the city<br />
if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.<br />
T-Centar M-5, Polačišće 2, Relja, tel. (+385-) 0800<br />
90 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Tele 2 D-3, Andrije Medulića 2, tel. (+385-23) 21<br />
38 09, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
VIP Centar E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6b, tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Post<br />
If all you need <strong>to</strong> do is send a postcard or a letter, you can<br />
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure<br />
they’re right value for what you are sending and where.<br />
Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These<br />
are the small yellow boxes attached <strong>to</strong> buildings around<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn.<br />
Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 31 68 41. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Post office B-3, Š.Kožičića Benje 1, tel. (+385-23) 25<br />
05 06. June, September Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 -<br />
13:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat<br />
07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Post office L-4, J.J.Strossmayera 8, tel. (+385-23)<br />
23 52 44. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
City codes<br />
Zagreb 01<br />
Split 021<br />
Šibenik 022<br />
Zadar 023<br />
Dubrovnik 020<br />
Postal rates<br />
Letters up <strong>to</strong> 50 gr Croatia 3,10 kn<br />
Abroad 7,10 kn<br />
Postcrads Croatia 1,60 kn<br />
Abroad 3,10 kn<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
42 Getting around<br />
Getting around<br />
43<br />
Public transport<br />
City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the<br />
Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all<br />
surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket<br />
office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00<br />
- 14:00, Saturdays 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a<br />
ticket valid for two journeys for 13kn. Alternatively, buy<br />
tickets inside the bus (8kn for one trip).<br />
Liburnija, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-23) 060 30 53 05.<br />
Taxi<br />
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting <strong>to</strong><br />
transport your person, for which privilege an equally varied<br />
array of prices apply, ranging from 19kn <strong>to</strong> 40kn for a 5km<br />
trip. Your safest bet is <strong>to</strong> ask the cost of the journey before<br />
entering the taxi.<br />
The train station is right next <strong>to</strong> the bus station. Zadar is<br />
not particularly well connected with other Croatian cities by<br />
rail. There are two direct trains <strong>to</strong> Zagreb a day. As for train<br />
services <strong>to</strong> Split - don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus.<br />
Ticket prices are similar <strong>to</strong> those of buses. The ticket office<br />
is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the<br />
trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German<br />
pages and a search facility. For international services, it<br />
connects you <strong>to</strong> the Deutsche Bahn website.<br />
Buses<br />
Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel.<br />
(+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.<br />
liburnija-zadar.hr. The bus station is on the crossroads<br />
just east of the Old Town heading <strong>to</strong>wards Split, Rijeka and<br />
Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including<br />
exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the<br />
cheapest and quickest option for those looking <strong>to</strong> explore<br />
the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian<br />
destinations are served, as well as a growing number of<br />
foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general<br />
ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.<br />
Car Rental<br />
AMC B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25<br />
43 01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, zdd@amcrentacar.<br />
hr, www.amcrentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34<br />
84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/<br />
(+385-) 091 570 22 31, aviazadar@yahoo.com, www.<br />
avia-rentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84<br />
02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare),<br />
tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@<br />
subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-)<br />
091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Lulić Ulica 159. brigade 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/<br />
(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Also<br />
at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 08:00 - 22:00. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
The Sea Organ - also called the orchestra of <strong>nature</strong><br />
with s<strong>to</strong>ne steps, unique polyethylene tubes as well<br />
as channels and chambers which combine <strong>to</strong> make<br />
a distinctive instrument that produces eternal organ<br />
sounds based on the power and direction of waves.<br />
Modul Au<strong>to</strong> R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-23) 34 36<br />
30/(+385-) 091 222 26 92, modul-au<strong>to</strong>@zd.t-com.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com.<br />
hr. Rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Terra G - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94/<br />
(+385-23) 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr,<br />
www.terratravel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Airport<br />
Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.<br />
zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s small but modern airport is in<br />
Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has<br />
domestic services <strong>to</strong> Pula and Zagreb and major European<br />
destinations. Charter flights also in summer. Liburnija runs<br />
buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the<br />
quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus<br />
lines are organised <strong>to</strong> connect with the flight timetable, and<br />
one-way tickets cost 25kn.<br />
Airline offices<br />
Croatia Airlines Zadar Airport, Zemunik Donji, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 25 01 01, zadap@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Parking<br />
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact<br />
that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There<br />
are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking<br />
spaces alongside the city walls on the way <strong>to</strong> the ferry<br />
terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the<br />
mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of<br />
the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car<br />
parks. Parking in Zadar every day from 1 Jul <strong>to</strong> 31 Aug,<br />
08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone<br />
1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone<br />
4 - 2 kn/h. From 1 Sept <strong>to</strong> 30 Jun charges are as follows:<br />
Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and<br />
Zone 4 - 2 kn/h; charges are applied every day except<br />
Sundays and bank holidays.<br />
Text Message Parking Croatia is proud <strong>to</strong> be the first<br />
country where you can pay for parking by text message!<br />
Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a<br />
blue or white field. Simply send the registration number<br />
of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special<br />
characters) <strong>to</strong> 8231 ( zone 1), 8232 ( zone 2), 8233 (zone<br />
3), 8234 (zone 4), 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is<br />
confirmed when you get a message back from them.<br />
Ferries<br />
Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger<br />
boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar <strong>to</strong> the surrounding<br />
islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well<br />
worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable.<br />
Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying<br />
the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office.<br />
These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated.<br />
Catamarans do not take cars on board.<br />
Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48<br />
00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen<br />
and Fri Open 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Mia<strong>to</strong>urs B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana b.b., tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@mia<strong>to</strong>urs.hr, www.<br />
mia<strong>to</strong>urs.hr. NLP agent. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu<br />
08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Trains<br />
Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1,<br />
Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55. National<br />
info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr<br />
Petrol stations<br />
Euro Petrol Petrčane Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23)<br />
36 44 34. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
INA - Put Murvice west O-1, Zagrebačka 35,<br />
tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 28, www.ina.hr. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
INA - Voštarnica Kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 497 13 29, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.<br />
A<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
The City Gate (The Land Gate) – a masterpiece of the<br />
late renaissance period<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
44 Getting around<br />
SPORT<br />
45<br />
Beaches<br />
Harbourmasters’ office<br />
Lučka kapetanija K-5/B-2, Liburnska obala 8, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 25 48 88, milivoj.maricic@pomorstvo.hr.<br />
Rent a bike<br />
Calimero M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 098 189 55 28, www.<br />
calimero-sport.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Eurobike M/N-5, Franje Tuđmana 14, tel. (+385-23)<br />
24 12 43. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Bus lines<br />
In the sweltering heat of the Mediterranean summer the<br />
last thing that <strong>to</strong>urists need is <strong>to</strong> contemplate on how <strong>to</strong><br />
get from A <strong>to</strong> B. Rest assured dear visi<strong>to</strong>rs as you can<br />
wipe the sweat of your brows as you’ll be pleased <strong>to</strong><br />
know that Zadar has excellent connections <strong>to</strong> the rest<br />
of Croatia. All the major destinations are covered and if<br />
you do have any inquiries, simply check directly at the<br />
Zadar Bus Station or phone 060 30 53 05.<br />
Zadar is well connected <strong>to</strong> Zagreb with daily lines. For<br />
those wishing <strong>to</strong> travel closer <strong>to</strong> the Zadar surroundings<br />
there is a bus line for Benkovac at 07:00 and 17:45.<br />
Island hoppers who choose Vir as a destination won’t<br />
miss out as there is a bus line that comes from Zagreb<br />
and leaves Zadar at 19:30. In addition, there is also a<br />
line Čakovec-Vir that runs from May 31 until August 31<br />
which s<strong>to</strong>ps in Zadar at 10:45 and continues through<br />
<strong>to</strong> Vir.<br />
The bus line Zagreb-Murter s<strong>to</strong>ps in Zadar and leaves<br />
for Murter at 07:30. If you’ve done your research you’ll<br />
know that Novalja is one of the hit party destinations<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Kompas B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 9, tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 43 04/(+385-23) 25 43 06, zadar@kompas.t-com.<br />
hr, www.kompas-travel.com. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94/<br />
(+385-23) 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr,<br />
www.terratravel.hr. Rafting, bungee jumping... QOpen<br />
08:00 - 22:00. A<br />
TUI Generalturist E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 1, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 31 89 97, pzadar@generalturist.com, www.<br />
generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Street smart<br />
Street ulica Square trg<br />
Road cesta Walk šetalište<br />
Passage prolaz Way put<br />
City centre centar Station stanica<br />
and therefore there is a bus that travels daily at 14:00<br />
and 20:00. Take note as an additional line <strong>to</strong> Novalja is<br />
scheduled from June 1 until September 30 with a bus<br />
that departs at 17:00.<br />
With the new state of the art freeways built, the<br />
Zagreb-Split bus line is definitely the best way <strong>to</strong> travel<br />
time-wise. In saying that, there are also buses available<br />
for those who wish <strong>to</strong> take the lovely coastal route along<br />
the sea. As a bonus, this Zagreb-Split line does s<strong>to</strong>p in<br />
Zadar.<br />
If you’re travelling south <strong>to</strong> Dubrovnik, there is a line<br />
from Trieste that arrives <strong>to</strong> Zadar at 00:55 and then<br />
proceeds further down.<br />
To the north of the country there are bus lines for the<br />
city of Rijeka. For the Istrian peninsula and the city of<br />
Pula the bus lines from Zadar depart at 08:00, 12:00<br />
and 23:30.<br />
For the most eastern part of Croatia there is a bus line<br />
<strong>to</strong> Osijek which leaves Zadar at 23:00.<br />
If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can<br />
head <strong>to</strong> the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the<br />
Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town.<br />
Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble<br />
beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would<br />
only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that<br />
have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach<br />
does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants,<br />
and is a good place <strong>to</strong> hang out, day or night. Behind<br />
Taverna Kolovare are public <strong>to</strong>ilets and you can play table<br />
tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing<br />
spots all the way <strong>to</strong> the headland in the east.<br />
Borik is a very popular place <strong>to</strong> bathe, and this year will<br />
be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good<br />
for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bot<strong>to</strong>m, while<br />
the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new<br />
aqua park is sure <strong>to</strong> be a big hit with kids. There are plenty<br />
of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as<br />
well as <strong>to</strong>ilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further<br />
west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has<br />
plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined<br />
area of villas.<br />
If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either<br />
the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy<br />
bays at Za<strong>to</strong>n, Nin and Privlaka. Za<strong>to</strong>n is particularly<br />
good for active types and families with children, as the<br />
holiday settlement has <strong>to</strong>ns of sports and games going<br />
on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those<br />
interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient<br />
settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby.<br />
But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands.<br />
Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day s<strong>to</strong>ps<br />
there on the way <strong>to</strong> Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks<br />
you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it<br />
gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their<br />
own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours!<br />
And once you get <strong>to</strong> the quieter islands, of course, you can<br />
find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself<br />
au <strong>nature</strong>l, undisturbed.<br />
Biking<br />
Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and<br />
biking even in high<br />
summer. The Ravni<br />
Kotari plains in the<br />
hinterland offer gentle<br />
terrain for a spot of<br />
<strong>to</strong>uring. One of the<br />
oldest cycling routes<br />
is between Zadar and<br />
Benkovac, where you<br />
can experience local<br />
Tempo della signore<br />
‘...back in the old days on the Croatian coast, the sunset<br />
used <strong>to</strong> be called tempo della signore; it was believed that<br />
the sun’s rays which beamed down at an angle made girls<br />
look all the more beautiful, adding <strong>to</strong> their complexion and<br />
tan...’’ Milorad S<strong>to</strong>jević: Tempo della signore<br />
hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient<br />
ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero<br />
offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and<br />
higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands<br />
of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed<br />
tradition of active <strong>to</strong>urism, and a number of routes<br />
cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing <strong>to</strong>ur<br />
allowing you <strong>to</strong> see some of the islands’ finest churches<br />
and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more<br />
challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate<br />
cyclists, as it’s not <strong>to</strong>o mountainous and there’s plenty<br />
<strong>to</strong> see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular<br />
scenery are <strong>to</strong> be found in the Paklenica National Park.<br />
See “Zadar County” for more info on all of these, or call<br />
in<strong>to</strong> the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B.<br />
Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr.<br />
Calimero bike shop M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a<br />
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10, www.calimero-sport.hr.<br />
Bikes for sale and rent, servis. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Eurobike L-5, Obala kneza Branimira 6c, tel. (+385-23)<br />
24 12 43. Bike purchase, service and rental, plus other<br />
sports equipment, including punchbags for when those family<br />
holidays are just getting <strong>to</strong>o much. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Climbing<br />
The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for<br />
climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna<br />
and innumerable <strong>to</strong>rrents combine <strong>to</strong> create a little piece<br />
of heaven. Add <strong>to</strong> that some challenging climbs on smooth<br />
rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking<br />
the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There is a<br />
40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days <strong>to</strong><br />
travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons,<br />
creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you<br />
can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has<br />
a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the<br />
greatest number of climbers. One of the most beautiful<br />
mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a<br />
great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain<br />
bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide<br />
you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for<br />
excellent pictures, information and advice.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
46 SPORT<br />
SPORT<br />
47<br />
Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad<br />
- PaklenicaPaklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/<br />
(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.<br />
paklenica.hr. Q 1-day ticket 20 - 40kn, 3-day ticket 80kn,<br />
5-day ticket 120kn.<br />
Fishing<br />
Lake Vransko is well-s<strong>to</strong>cked and offers peaceful<br />
surroundings for fisher-persons. To fish anywhere, you<br />
need a licence - costing from 70kn per day. Call in<strong>to</strong> your<br />
local <strong>to</strong>urist office - take some ID with you.<br />
Horse riding<br />
Take in the scenery while someone else does the hard<br />
work.<br />
Konjički centar Libertas Za<strong>to</strong>n Holliday Resort, Nin,<br />
tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas.<br />
hr, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Q May - Septemeber<br />
Open 07:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00.<br />
Konjički klub Epona N/O-1, Hrvatskog sabora 1, tel.<br />
(+385-) 099 673 71 06. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00.<br />
Marinas<br />
ACI Šimuni Kolan, Pag Island, tel. (+385-23) 69 74<br />
57, m.simuni@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 200 berths,<br />
60 places on land, a 15t crane and slipway for vessels up<br />
<strong>to</strong> 8m. QReception Open 08:00 - 20:00, June - August 31<br />
Open 07:30 - 21:30.<br />
Benjamin Marina Iž Island - Veli Iž bb, tel. (+385-23)<br />
27 70 06/(+385-) 091 576 53 11, sinisakulisic@gmail.<br />
com. A small marina on peaceful Iž island, in a lovely little<br />
bay and with a good restaurant. Q Reception Open 07:30<br />
- 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00.<br />
Marina Biograd Bukovačka bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 38 61 22, marina.biograd@zd.t-com.hr. Biograd’s<br />
new dry marina is the place <strong>to</strong> keep your baby under wraps<br />
over winter. 24 hour surveillance and maintenance services.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Marina Borik G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 33 30 36, info@marinaborik.hr, www.marinaborik.hr.<br />
Facilities include a 20 <strong>to</strong>n travel lift, boat care services, 50<br />
land s<strong>to</strong>rage spaces. Right by the Borik hotel complex with<br />
great accommodation, an aquapark and bars, restaurants<br />
and entertainments close by. Q Open 07:30 - 20:00, Mon<br />
07:30 - 14:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Marina Dalmacija G-5, Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete<br />
Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00,<br />
info@marinadalmacija.hr, www.marinadalmacija.hr. A<br />
beautifully laid out Blue Flag marina near a beach resort with<br />
a nice old centre just a few kilometres south of Zadar. Don’t<br />
miss ancient Konoba Kaleta - see “Where <strong>to</strong> eat”. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Marina Kornati Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 38 38 00, info@marinakornati.com,<br />
www.marinakornati.com. A full service marina close <strong>to</strong><br />
the Kornati National Park, in the lively resort of Biograd.<br />
The marina is backed by three hotels, the Adriatic, Ilirija<br />
and Kornati, owned by the same company as the marina.<br />
See “Where <strong>to</strong> stay” under “Out of <strong>to</strong>wn”. Charter available.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 21:00.<br />
Marina Zadar B-1, Ivana Meštrovića 2, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 27 00/(+385-23) 20 48 62, marina@tankerkomerc.<br />
hr, www.tankerkomerc.hr. This is the marina closest<br />
<strong>to</strong> the old centre of Zadar. 300 sea and 200 dry berths, a<br />
restaurant with a great sunset view and secure parking.<br />
Charter available. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. W<br />
Rafting<br />
In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue<br />
river Zrmanja, with rushing <strong>to</strong>rrents, small waterfalls<br />
and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and<br />
refreshing ride.<br />
Bora Tours F-4, Majs<strong>to</strong>ra Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23)<br />
33 77 60, info@bora<strong>to</strong>urs.net. They also organise rafting,<br />
kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 17:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Sailing<br />
There’s no better way <strong>to</strong> spend your holiday. Why? 1. You<br />
can go faster. 2. You can get <strong>to</strong> paradise beaches where<br />
nobody else goes. 3. The cool sea breeze. 4. It’s great.<br />
Need we say more?<br />
Euromarine Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 38 48 55, biograd@euromarine.hr, www.<br />
euromarine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 33<br />
10 76/(+385-23) 33 78 30, office@uskok.biz.hr, www.<br />
uskok.biz.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Yacht Club Biograd Kralja Petra Svačića 17, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 38 53 35, info@yc-biograd.com, www.ycbiograd.com.<br />
Scuba diving<br />
“Under the seeea... under the seeea... there’ll be no<br />
accusations, just friendly crustaceans...” Homer Simpson.<br />
Homer knew what he was talking about, it’s another<br />
world down there, where you can forget your troubles. The<br />
Adriatic, one of the cleanest seas in Europe, is perfect for<br />
learning <strong>to</strong> dive and getting acquainted with the watery<br />
underworld. Here’s where you can do it.<br />
Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 38 54 35/(+385-) 098 193 53 30, 099 353 47<br />
83, info@albamaris.hr, www.albamaris.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Scuba Adriatic M-3, Za<strong>to</strong>n Holiday Resort, tel.<br />
(+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, info@<br />
scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.com. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Zadar Sub N-2, Dubrovačka 20a, tel. (+385-23) 21<br />
48 48/(+385-) 099 530 04 78, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr,<br />
www.zadarsub.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Zlatna luka Marina Dalmacija, Sukošan, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.divingzlatnaluka.net.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. N<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> be missed<br />
This year’s Croatian UNESCO nomination for the World<br />
Heritage List is the sacral monument on the ruins of the<br />
Roman Forum in Zadar.<br />
Tennis<br />
Tennis club Zadar I-3/4, Su<strong>to</strong>miška ulica 1 (uvala<br />
Draženica), tel. (+385-23) 33 20 22. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
23:00. 45kn / per hour.<br />
Windsurfing<br />
Although the waters around Zadar are rather calm for<br />
adrenaline surfing, there are places where you can hone<br />
your skills, or learn the basics.<br />
Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin,<br />
tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www.<br />
surfmania.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Sport events<br />
02.07. State Open Water Championship in<br />
long distance swimming Riva<br />
08.07. ISAF Youth Sailing World Championship<br />
Jazine<br />
10.07. Aquathlon Zadar Sea Organ/Riva<br />
15.07 - 25.07. Waterpolo <strong>to</strong>urnament Riva<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
48 Shopping<br />
Shopping<br />
49<br />
Shopping centres<br />
City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01<br />
00, www.citygalleria.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Open<br />
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June - August 31 Open 09:00<br />
-21:00. P<br />
Supernova Centar Zadar Akcije Maslenica 1, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 32 73 01. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August<br />
31 Open 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Antiques<br />
A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives<br />
you the opportunity <strong>to</strong> find that very unique treasure. As<br />
you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across<br />
the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian<br />
fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. Jurja<br />
Barakovića Street, daily 09:00-14:00 and 17:00<br />
-21:00.<br />
Art Galleries<br />
Anima C-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78<br />
01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www.anima.hr. Paintings and<br />
postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian<br />
themes. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />
13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Bambola C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31<br />
86 10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. Q<br />
Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. July - September Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun<br />
14:00 - 22:00. A<br />
More B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 16 24/<br />
(+385-) 098 955 80 12. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Museum of Ancient Glass Shop D-2, Poljana<br />
Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.<br />
mas-zadar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Pia C-3, Madijevaca 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 60. Paintings,<br />
ceramics, lamps, bags and more made by Croatian and Zadar<br />
artisans. The staff will also help you with <strong>to</strong>urist information.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. N<br />
Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. (+385-) 098<br />
27 34 73. Traditional hand-made lace from Pag island<br />
and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski woven textiles from<br />
Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin slippers. Handmade<br />
glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00,<br />
18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Val B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 20, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 91.<br />
No, it’s not the name of the owner of unspecified gender, val<br />
means “wave”. Distinctive paintings by Zadar artist Silviana<br />
Dražević, and jewellery by her brother Ivan. Q Open 09:00 -<br />
12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Bookshops<br />
Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-<br />
23) 49 30 50, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June<br />
- August 31 Open 09:00 -21:00. A<br />
VBZ F-6, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10, tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 45 50, www.vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Delicatessen shop<br />
The first thing that comes <strong>to</strong> a Croatian’s mind when they hear<br />
the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sunbaked<br />
terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch<br />
on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour <strong>to</strong><br />
their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is<br />
mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many<br />
restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam<br />
as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real<br />
Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper<br />
offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and<br />
trying <strong>to</strong> get hold of some home made stuff on the island<br />
itself. Ask your hosts <strong>to</strong> recommend someone, or look out<br />
for signs saying Paški sir.<br />
Pršut is <strong>to</strong> Croatia what Prosciut<strong>to</strong> di Parma is <strong>to</strong> Italy.<br />
(And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a<br />
tastebud-tingling delicacy).<br />
Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and<br />
mild. It’s difficult <strong>to</strong> go wrong, they’re all good, but the fac<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting<br />
international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give<br />
yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread,<br />
butter, home-grown <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es, local olive oil, a handful of<br />
olives and a good glass of red wine.<br />
Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25<br />
02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with<br />
a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Crodelice D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 2, tel. (+385-23)<br />
31 55 66, info@crodelice.com, www.crodelice.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Delikatese Lukin N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria).<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 -12:00.<br />
Dobra vina N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-<br />
23) 29 90 44, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Gligora N-5, Murvička 1(City Galleria), tel. (+385-23)<br />
31 33 96, sirena@sirena.hr, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a<br />
specialised cheese fac<strong>to</strong>ry on the island of Pag. It produces<br />
one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00. A<br />
Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr.<br />
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the<br />
Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions <strong>to</strong><br />
soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity.<br />
Other groceries available <strong>to</strong>o. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun. N<br />
Olvin N-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. A company producing<br />
its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
Uljara Joskro K-1, Put Bokanjca 24, tel. (+385-23)<br />
32 22 25/(+385-) 098 27 39 38, joskro1@zd.t-com.hr.<br />
This family sell their own olive oil, plus anchovies and cows’<br />
and goats’ milk cheese marinated in olive oil. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Foreign newspapers<br />
For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend<br />
<strong>to</strong> be easiest <strong>to</strong> come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija<br />
kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge <strong>to</strong> the Old Town<br />
- Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza<br />
Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and<br />
Tisak shop at Ulica plemića Borelli 25 (C-3).<br />
Nature Cosmetics<br />
L’Occitane D-3, Narodni trg 3, tel. (+385-23) 70 04<br />
04. Also at Supernova Centar Zadar, tel.70 03 93 QOpen<br />
08:00 - 21:00. JA<br />
Zdravi kutak D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 7, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 30 56 12, www.zdravikutak.com. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 21:00. JA<br />
Nautical supplies<br />
Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 09 68. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. N<br />
Big Blue L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. (+385-23) 23<br />
59 24. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. (+385-23)<br />
25 44 58. Q Open 08:00 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Udica C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 14, tel. (+385-23)<br />
30 53 98. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Jewellery designer An<strong>to</strong>nija Gospić runs workshops in the<br />
Museum of Ancient Glass, and you can buy her designs in<br />
Marival, Ulica Don Ive Prodovana.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
50 Business direc<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
Banks & Exchanges<br />
Aquarius D-2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29<br />
19, juresko@zd.t-com.hr, www.juresko.hr. Q June,<br />
September Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30<br />
- 24:00.<br />
Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1,<br />
tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 36 39 20, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
OTP B-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 20 14 10,<br />
www.otpbanka.hr. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. September 16 - June<br />
14 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Privredna banka C-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23)<br />
22 30 64, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Raiffeisen Bank D-1, Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 72 31 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Zagrebačka banka C-2, Brne Karnarutića 13, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 20 83 02/(+385-23) 20 83 03, www.zaba.<br />
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Brokerage houses<br />
OTP B-3, Domovinskog rata 3, tel. (+385-) 062 20 16<br />
74, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Become a fan of Zadar In Your Pocket on<br />
Business connections<br />
HGK - Županijska komora Zadar (Croatian<br />
Chamber of Economy - Zadar Chamber) D-3, Špire<br />
Brusine 16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr,<br />
www.hgk.hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of<br />
Commerce. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka<br />
ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73,<br />
ok.zadar@hok.hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Consulates<br />
Ukraine O - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789<br />
29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri<br />
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.<br />
Interpreters & Transla<strong>to</strong>rs<br />
Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. (+385-23) 31 43 99,<br />
acro@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
Geo K-2, Put Vukića 23, tel. (+385-23) 31 27 58/<br />
(+385-) 098 964 24 34, jasminka.bajlo@zd.t-com.hr.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Real estate<br />
Chonic D-3, Špire Brusine 10/I, tel. (+385-23) 31 16<br />
67/(+385-) 098 73 60 59, 091 564 62 10, www.chonicnekretnine.hr.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Gea D-3, Široka ulica 10/1, tel. (+385-23) 25 11 33/<br />
(+385-23) 25 10 69, gea3@zd.t-com.hr, www.gea.hr.<br />
Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Palmes Ugljan 22, Ugljan Island, tel. (+385-23) 28 80<br />
27/(+385-) 098 187 15 30, palmes@palmes-nekretnine.<br />
hr, www.palmes-nekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Phoenix I-4, Strossmayerova 6a, tel. (+385-23) 23 91<br />
39, 23 91 41/(+385-) 091 235 92 33, info@nekretninephoenix.hr,<br />
www.nekretnine-phoenix.hr. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Sanmark D-2, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 71<br />
42 40, sanmark@sanmark.hr, www.sanmark.hr. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Tax free heaven<br />
Save money when you buy souvenirs<br />
and other stuff <strong>to</strong> take back<br />
home. Look for the “Tax Free” label<br />
on shop windows, or ask at the<br />
counter. When you buy goods <strong>to</strong>talling<br />
500kn or more, they’ll give you a<br />
form. Get it stamped when you leave<br />
the country, and you’re entitled <strong>to</strong> a<br />
tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.<br />
Dry cleaners & Laundries<br />
Etilen N - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21<br />
49 04. Dry cleaners and laundries. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 71.<br />
Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. V<br />
Lo<strong>to</strong>s J - 3, Ivana Gundulića 4d, tel. (+385-23) 33 51 40.<br />
Laundries. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Emergency health care<br />
Hitna medicinska pomoć B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 28a,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 23 98 11. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Hospital<br />
Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. (+385-23) 50<br />
55 05, opca-bolnica-zadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.bolnicazadar.hr.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23<br />
58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular<br />
concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll<br />
find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and<br />
natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. Q<br />
Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 30 29 20. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina bb, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 25 13 42/(+385-23) 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 -<br />
21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6a, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 -<br />
13:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>copying<br />
Pharos C-3, Široka ulica 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 70 54,<br />
pharos@zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 -<br />
20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Trimat grafika D-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 31 43 73/(+385-23) 30 07 60, grafika@trimat.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Police station<br />
Police station C-3, Zore Dalmatinske 1, tel. (+385-23)<br />
34 51 41, pitanja@mup.hr, www.zadarska.policija.hr.<br />
Lifestyle direc<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Vets<br />
Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32<br />
36 25/(+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com.hr,<br />
www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you’ve brought<br />
your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER<br />
services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets,<br />
including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, labora<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations. Animalia<br />
has everything your four-legged companion may ever need!<br />
Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-23)<br />
31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar.<br />
com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Veterinarska stanica K-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 32 28 77. Animal clinic. For an emergency call<br />
098 33 94 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95,<br />
www.zoo-vet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are<br />
made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
51<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
zadar.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011
52<br />
birdwatching in croatia<br />
birdwatching in croatia 53<br />
Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching<br />
but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text<br />
has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal www.<br />
ptice.net and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko Podravec,<br />
with our thanks.<br />
Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity,<br />
partly due <strong>to</strong> the interest shown by visi<strong>to</strong>rs from other<br />
European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local<br />
ornithological societies and other organisations, including<br />
schools, are also making a significant contribution through<br />
moni<strong>to</strong>ring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps<br />
for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not<br />
only <strong>to</strong> protect birds but the environment as a whole.<br />
According <strong>to</strong> data from the State Direc<strong>to</strong>rate for the Protection<br />
of Nature and the Environment, in December 1999, there were<br />
371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally high number<br />
for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting species, of<br />
which 78 are registered as endangered species in Europe. At<br />
the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally high number of<br />
endangered species due <strong>to</strong> disappearing habitats, especially<br />
wetlands, and due <strong>to</strong> poaching. The majority of protected<br />
species are <strong>to</strong> be found in hard-<strong>to</strong>-reach areas such as<br />
mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges, and areas such as<br />
the Neretva delata on the Adriatic coast and along the Sava<br />
and Drava rivers in the north, as well as close <strong>to</strong> the large<br />
fish farms <strong>to</strong> be found in Pannonian Croatia.<br />
Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in <strong>nature</strong><br />
protection in areas where there are large bird populations,<br />
large numbers of species of birds, or where endangered<br />
species are <strong>to</strong> be found. Birdlife International has identified 23<br />
The first bird reserve in Croatia<br />
Krapje đol, not far from the villages of Krapje and<br />
Jasenovac in central Croatia, was designated a bird<br />
reserve in 1963. Here, a tributary of the River Sava<br />
provides ideal nesting conditions for the Eurasian<br />
Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). The tributary sadly<br />
dried up due <strong>to</strong> the construction of an embankment and<br />
became overgrown. However, the species which nest<br />
here, which are rare both in European and global terms,<br />
have been saved thanks <strong>to</strong> a canal which was built <strong>to</strong><br />
res<strong>to</strong>re the flow of water.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while the State Direc<strong>to</strong>rate for<br />
the Protection of Nature and the Environment has recognised<br />
40 areas which are important for bird life. Some of these areas<br />
are bird reserves, some form parts of national parks or <strong>nature</strong><br />
parks, while others do not enjoy any form of protection.<br />
Although there are birdwatching opportunities all year round,<br />
the liveliest seasons are spring and autumn. Autumn signals<br />
both the departure of species that nest in Croatia and the<br />
arrival of visi<strong>to</strong>rs from northern Europe and Asia. In spring,<br />
the species that spend their winters in the warmer climes of<br />
Africa return <strong>to</strong> nest. At any time, you might spot a species<br />
that is just passing through en route <strong>to</strong> somewhere else:<br />
Croatia is a bottleneck on the migra<strong>to</strong>ry route <strong>to</strong> and from<br />
Africa for a large number of European bird species. There<br />
are guide books available <strong>to</strong> help you identify species and<br />
understand their behaviour.<br />
The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early<br />
morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their<br />
most active, especially during the summer when birds, like<br />
people, avoid the hottest part of the day.<br />
Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it’s vital <strong>to</strong> take care<br />
not <strong>to</strong> disturb the birds. Large numbers of visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> national<br />
parks, <strong>nature</strong> parks and bird reserves may be distressing <strong>to</strong><br />
their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us from<br />
being able <strong>to</strong> observe their natural behaviour. It is advisable<br />
<strong>to</strong> avoid getting <strong>to</strong>o close <strong>to</strong> bird nests, since you risk the<br />
parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous, especially<br />
where endangered species are concerned.<br />
The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good<br />
quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by<br />
species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible<br />
clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will<br />
scare the birds away.<br />
Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect <strong>to</strong><br />
the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or<br />
<strong>to</strong> ornithological societies, which is of great help <strong>to</strong> these<br />
organisations in moni<strong>to</strong>ring changes in the number of birds,<br />
in their behaviour and habitats.<br />
Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below<br />
we list a range of organisations which might be of interest<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>nature</strong> lovers, although there might neither be much<br />
information about birds in specific nor professional guides.<br />
Before visiting any protected area, we ask you <strong>to</strong> please<br />
contact the organisation responsible, which will give you<br />
any instructions and warnings necessary <strong>to</strong> protect fragile<br />
habitats, enabling as many people as possible <strong>to</strong> enjoy the<br />
beauty of <strong>nature</strong> as well as learning how <strong>to</strong> protect it.<br />
Lake Vrana Nature Park / Lake Vrana Bird Reserve Lake<br />
Vrana lies alongside the coast road between Zadar and<br />
Šibenik, or more precisely, between Pirovac and Pakoštane.<br />
241 bird species have been logged in the area of the Nature<br />
Park, 102 of which nest here. This is a good place <strong>to</strong> spot<br />
the Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), Great Bittern (Botaurus<br />
stellaris), Corncrake (Crex crex) and Squacco Heron (Ardeola<br />
ralloides), all endangered species in Europe.<br />
The Park staff can organise visits on foot or by boat <strong>to</strong><br />
birdwatching sites upon request. The price of a visit, complete<br />
with an expert guide, is 100kn/h per person, and the trip can<br />
take up <strong>to</strong> five hours. Entry tickets <strong>to</strong> the Nature Park are also<br />
payable (20kn adults, children 7 - 18, 10kn). Visi<strong>to</strong>rs should<br />
bring their own birdwatching equipment, and call ahead <strong>to</strong><br />
announce group visits.<br />
Lake Vrana Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, 38 64 52, pp-vransko-jezero@<br />
zd.t-com,www.vransko-jezero.hr.<br />
Pag island The island of Pag is home <strong>to</strong> the following bird<br />
reserves: Kolansko bla<strong>to</strong>, Bla<strong>to</strong> Rogoza, Veliko bla<strong>to</strong> and<br />
Malo bla<strong>to</strong>. All of these are marshlands which are home <strong>to</strong><br />
species including the Gadwall (Anas strepera), Montagu’s<br />
Harrier (Circus pygargus) and Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha<br />
calandra), which are endangered in Europe. Call in<strong>to</strong> the Tourist<br />
Association in Povljana <strong>to</strong> buy entry tickets for the Veliko bla<strong>to</strong><br />
reserve, which has a hide with a checklist.<br />
Povljana Tourist Association Stjepana Radića 20,<br />
Povljana, tel. (+385-23) 69 20 03, (+385)098 184 21<br />
29, tz-povljana@zd.t-com.hr, www.tz-povljana.hr.<br />
Kolan Tourist Association Trg kralja Tomislava, Kolan, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 69 82 90, info@tzkolan-mandre.com, www.<br />
tzkolan-mandre.com.<br />
Telašćica Nature Park This fantastic <strong>nature</strong> park in the<br />
Telašćica Bay on Dugi O<strong>to</strong>k is also designated an Important<br />
Bird Area. 110 bird species have been sighted here. Perhaps<br />
the most exciting birds <strong>to</strong> spot are birds of prey such as the<br />
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus). The Park is accessible<br />
by boats laid on by travel agencies and private boat owners,<br />
or from dry land from the <strong>to</strong>wn of Sali. Entry tickets cost<br />
28 - 60kn. If you require a guide, please phone one week<br />
in advance.<br />
Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel.<br />
(+385-23)37 70 96, 37 73 95, telascica@zd.t-com.hr,<br />
www.telascica.hr.<br />
Kornati National Park A national park made up of some<br />
90 islands, islets and reefs spanning the area between<br />
Biograd and Šibenik. The land is owned by the residents<br />
Fun for the whole family<br />
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of the surrounding islands. This is also an Important Bird<br />
Area, although it’s insufficiently researched with respect <strong>to</strong><br />
fauna and flora so there are no accurate data on numbers of<br />
species. In common with other island habitats, owls, seagulls<br />
and the European Shag (no tittering, you at the back) can<br />
be spotted here. You can visit Kornati if you have your own<br />
boat, or as part of a trip organised by a travel agencies and<br />
private boat owners in the areas of Šibenik, Murter, Zadar,<br />
Biograd and the islands in the Zadar area. Tickets are for<br />
sale in the Park itself and in local travel agencies, and cost<br />
150 - 1500kn depending on the size of the boat. There are<br />
no guided <strong>to</strong>urs.<br />
Waterbird Census<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Bird lovers can take part in the International Winter<br />
Waterbird Census, organised by Wetlands International<br />
on a global level. Taking place over three weeks at the<br />
beginning of January every year, the census aims <strong>to</strong> collect<br />
information on the ever more endangered bird species<br />
that inhabit marshes and other wetland habitats, as well<br />
as on species that nest in the far northern regions of<br />
Europe and Asia. Read more on www.wetlands.org.<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
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Summer 2011
54 birdwatching in croatia<br />
Fishing on the Adriatic 55<br />
EuroBirdwatch<br />
Bird lovers by now have a date in their diary every<br />
year for the first weekend in Oc<strong>to</strong>ber, when the annual<br />
EuroBirdwatch is held. Organised by BirdLife, a global<br />
partnership of conservation organisations, the event aims<br />
<strong>to</strong> raise awareness of issues related <strong>to</strong> bird migration,<br />
<strong>to</strong> promote protection of endangered bird species and<br />
<strong>to</strong> recruit new members for the partner organisations.<br />
See www.birdlife.org.<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Kornati National Park Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22)<br />
43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr.<br />
Paklenica National Park<br />
The Paklenica National Park occupies the coastal part of<br />
the southern Velebit mountains. The Park is famous for the<br />
large difference in altitudes you cross as you travel through<br />
it, complete with changes in climate, all in a relatively small<br />
area. Bird species you might spot on the rock and cliff faces<br />
include the Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and the Blue<br />
Looking for more?<br />
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Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius). Rare and endangered<br />
birds of prey <strong>to</strong> be found here include the Golden Eagle (Aquila<br />
chrysae<strong>to</strong>s), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Short-Toed<br />
Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and Goshawk (Accipiter gentiles).<br />
Entry tickets <strong>to</strong> the park cost 40kn depending on the time of<br />
year. Birdwatching as an individual is not permitted: please<br />
call ahead <strong>to</strong> organise a <strong>to</strong>ur with one of the Park’s official<br />
guides.<br />
Paklenica National Park dr. F. Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad -<br />
Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02, prezentacija@paklenica.<br />
hr, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.paklenica.hr.<br />
Velebit Nature Park / Northern Velebit National Park The<br />
Velebit is the longest mountain range in Croatia, stretching<br />
145km from Vratnik near Senj <strong>to</strong> the River Zrmanja near Zadar.<br />
It is not classified as an Important Bird Area, nor does it have<br />
any bird reserves, but it does encompass three Parks: the<br />
Northern Velebit National Park, the Velebit Nature Park and<br />
the Paklenica National Park. It has two strict <strong>nature</strong> reserves<br />
(both in the Northern Velebit National Park) as well as <strong>nature</strong><br />
reserves for plant life, and the area is rich in flora and fauna.<br />
Nesting sides of the following birds are <strong>to</strong> be found here: the<br />
Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum), the Or<strong>to</strong>lan<br />
Bunting (Emberiza hortulana), the Western Capercaillie or<br />
Wood Grouse (Tetrao urogallus), White <strong>Back</strong>ed Woodpecker<br />
(Dendrocopus leuco<strong>to</strong>s) and the the Boreal Owl (Aegolius<br />
funereus).<br />
Velebit National Park Kaniža Gospićka 4b, Gospić, tel.<br />
(+385-53) 56 04 50, Krasno office (+385-53) 85 16 00,<br />
Obrovac office (+385-23)68 98 18, velebit@pp-velebit.<br />
hr, www.pp-velebit.hr.<br />
Northern Velebit Nature Park Krasno 96, Krasno, tel.<br />
(+385-53) 66 53 80, npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr, www.<br />
np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.<br />
Senj Info Centre Obala kralja Zvonimira, tel.(+385-53) 88<br />
45 51. There are no organised birdwatching activities.<br />
Val agency This travel agency organises birdwatching <strong>to</strong>urs<br />
over several days in Dalmatia during the spring and autumn<br />
migrating seasons. Please check www.croatiabirding.com for<br />
details, dates and prices.<br />
Val-<strong>to</strong>urs, Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd n/m, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 38 64 79, info@val-<strong>to</strong>urs.hr,www.val-<strong>to</strong>urs.hr.<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Nedo Buljan<br />
“The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men’s<br />
lives the hours spent on fishing.” - Assyrian proverb<br />
The Croatian Adriatic is among cleanest seas in Europe. Add<br />
<strong>to</strong> that its warmth, shallowness, and lack of strong tides and<br />
currents, and you have an ideal environment for the joys of<br />
recreational fishing.<br />
Croatia is often called “the country of a thousand islands”<br />
due <strong>to</strong> its 66 islands, 652 islets, 389 rocks and 78 reefs.<br />
The waters of the Adriatic are rich in fish, aquatic mammals,<br />
seaweed, plank<strong>to</strong>n, shellfish, crabs and sponges. It’s no<br />
wonder that the tradition of fishing here goes back millennia.<br />
Apart from being a vital industry and a traditional way of life,<br />
fishing <strong>to</strong>day for many people provides an ideal way <strong>to</strong> relax<br />
and reconnect with <strong>nature</strong>.<br />
Fishing techniques tend <strong>to</strong> be passed down through<br />
generations, and you’ll often see grandparents and<br />
grandchildren heading out happily <strong>to</strong>gether <strong>to</strong> catch fish.<br />
The locals, of course, know the best tips and tricks for<br />
their particular waters, and will usually be glad <strong>to</strong> help and<br />
advise you.<br />
Keen anglers will find all kinds of fishing opportunities in<br />
Croatia due <strong>to</strong> the diversity of the coastal terrain. Just some<br />
of the places you might like <strong>to</strong> explore include: the islands<br />
of Mali Lošinj, Jabuka, Svetac and Mali Ždrelac; the channel<br />
that connects the Zadar and the Central channels; and the<br />
Bay of Pag, where there are so many fish that you can exceed<br />
your legal fishing limit with alarming ease. Then there’s the Tri<br />
Sestrice islets near Zadar and the entire Zadar archipelago.<br />
Lovers of spearfishing will find their nirvana in the mystical<br />
depths around the islands of Glavat and Molunat. You can<br />
also have unique fishing experiences off the coast of the<br />
Pelješac peninsula and close <strong>to</strong> the island of Šolta, a spot<br />
so beloved of Roman emperor Diocletian that he ordered<br />
fish ponds be built on the island. You might be lucky enough<br />
<strong>to</strong> spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s most<br />
endangered species, which is often spotted around Šolta.<br />
There are over 400 species of fish native <strong>to</strong> the Adriatic, and<br />
if you’re hunting for your lunch or dinner in a local restaurant<br />
you’ll most likely “catch” orada (sea bass), brancin (sea<br />
bream), arbun (common pandora), skuša (mackerel),<br />
lokarda (chub mackerel), srdele (sardines), papaline<br />
(sprats), škarpina (scorpion fish), trlja (red mullet), ušata<br />
(saddled seabream), pic (sharpsnout seabream), zubatac<br />
(dentex), grdobina (monkfish), and kovač (John Dory).<br />
However, because of various threats presented by mankind<br />
such as pollution, overfishing and increasingly intensive<br />
<strong>to</strong>urism, more and more species native <strong>to</strong> the Adriatic are<br />
endangered. The following species have protected status<br />
in Croatia: the ocean sunfish (lat. Mola mola), fan mussel<br />
(Pinna nobilis), date mussel (Lithophaga lithophaga), Caspian<br />
gull (Larus cachinnans), green wrasse (Labrus viridis),<br />
sea cucumber (Holothurioidea), Mediterranean monkseal<br />
(Monachus monachus), common bottlenose dolphin<br />
(Tursiops truncates), common dolphin (Delphinus delphis),<br />
the whale, the sea turtle, the shellfish Dolium galea and<br />
Mitra zonata, the large sea snail Tri<strong>to</strong>n’s Trumpet (Charonia<br />
tri<strong>to</strong>nis), and Neptune Grass (Posidonia oceanica).<br />
Nedo Buljan<br />
There are several ways <strong>to</strong> fish at sea, and most people<br />
take part in sea fishing for sport and recreation. Whichever<br />
kind of fishing you want <strong>to</strong> enjoy, you must first make sure<br />
you take care of the paperwork. You can buy permits<br />
covering one day (60kn), three days (150kn), seven days<br />
(300kn) and one month (700kn), while Croatian citizens<br />
and foreigners with temporary residence in Croatia can buy<br />
one year permits. Prices are subject <strong>to</strong> change, and are the<br />
same for sport and recreational licences. When buying a<br />
sports licence you must also purchase a membership card<br />
of the Croatian Sea Sport Fishing Association, which costs<br />
50kn. Licences can be bought at offices of the Ministry of<br />
Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development in Pula, Rijeka,<br />
Senj, Zadar, Šibenik, Split, Ploče and Dubrovnik; in travel<br />
agencies, harbourmasters’ offices and from authorized<br />
resellers; while the membership card of the Sport Fishing<br />
Association is bought from the organization itself. You can<br />
find a list showing where <strong>to</strong> buy recreational licences at the<br />
Minstry’s website,www.mps.hr, which has English pages. For<br />
the sport fishing licence and membership, see www.hssrm.<br />
hr/mjesta-prodaja-dozvola.html<br />
Fishing is not allowed in special reservations, in harbours or<br />
on beaches between 1 June and 1 Oc<strong>to</strong>ber. There are special<br />
regulations governing fishing in national parks. The maximum<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
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Summer 2011
56 Fishing on the Adriatic Zadar county 57<br />
Nedo Buljan<br />
daily catch is 5kg for recreational and sport licences, and you<br />
may not sell or exchange your catch. There is also a list of<br />
regulations on the protection of fish species which stipulates<br />
the minimum size of commercially important fish and other<br />
sea creatures that may be caught. If you accidentally find<br />
a female spiny lobster in your net, or a European lobster<br />
with eggs, you must immediately put them back in the sea<br />
regardless of their size.<br />
Most people go fishing from a quiet spot on the shore or from<br />
a small fishing boat, while adrenalin seekers go for either big<br />
game fishing or spearfishing.<br />
Big game fishing is an exciting sport using fast boats on<br />
the open sea <strong>to</strong> catch powerful fish such as tuna and marlin.<br />
Licences are for sale in travel agencies. The largest and most<br />
prized catch on the Croatian Adriatic is bluefin tuna, which is in<br />
season from August <strong>to</strong> January. The belt of water around the<br />
island of Blitvenica and the Kornati archipelago is especially<br />
suitable for bluefin tuna fishing. Other “big game” which can<br />
be caught in this way include swordfish (sabljarka), greater<br />
amberjack (gof), Atlantic boni<strong>to</strong> (palamida), dolphin fish<br />
(lampuga), and blue shark (modrulj).<br />
The beauty of this sport is its unpredictable <strong>nature</strong> and the<br />
co-ordination of the whole crew on board the boat. If you visit<br />
the village of Jezera on the island of Murter, you can watch (or<br />
take part in) Europe’s largest big game fishing competition.<br />
Spearfishing is the most selective form of fishing. You<br />
can fish while free diving, snorkelling or scuba diving, and<br />
nowadays anglers use elastic-powered or compressed<br />
gas spearguns or slings <strong>to</strong> hunt the fish. Spearfishing<br />
can only take place during the daylight hours for obvious<br />
reasons, and the sport requires you <strong>to</strong> be both physically<br />
and psychologically fit due <strong>to</strong> both the diving skills required<br />
and the weapon used. In the Adriatic, the best spearfishing<br />
is <strong>to</strong> be had in late summer and early autumn. The best fish<br />
is <strong>to</strong> be found where the sea has a rocky bot<strong>to</strong>m, providing<br />
shelter for the fish. The best-known spearfishing competition<br />
in the Adriatic is the New Year Spearfishing Cup held on the<br />
island of Mali Lošinj.<br />
Nedo Buljan<br />
Finally, don’t forget, whichever kind of fishing you go for, it’s<br />
important for your sake and everyone else’s that you keep<br />
within the law and fish in a responsible and ethical manner.<br />
We wish you calm seas and a plentiful catch!<br />
Nedo Buljan<br />
Islands<br />
Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great<br />
places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are<br />
somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the<br />
more delightful <strong>to</strong> discover.<br />
Dugi o<strong>to</strong>k<br />
Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s<br />
“Long Island” is rather far out <strong>to</strong> sea, and so remains one<br />
of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even<br />
in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, his<strong>to</strong>ric and<br />
attractive fishing <strong>to</strong>wn with a summer cultural festival running<br />
from mid-July <strong>to</strong> mid-August. The climax of this is a festival<br />
called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh<br />
grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades<br />
in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The<br />
festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers<br />
leaping in<strong>to</strong> the sea in full national costume! Another unique<br />
element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island,<br />
played on old irons filled with s<strong>to</strong>nes, and on enormous horns<br />
poached from some poor beast.<br />
If that all sounds <strong>to</strong>o hectic, head for the smaller village of<br />
Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for<br />
divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There<br />
are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the<br />
island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore <strong>to</strong> your<br />
heart’s content - it’s the best way <strong>to</strong> explore any island.<br />
Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course,<br />
clothing-optional zones.<br />
A trip <strong>to</strong> the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part<br />
of a visit <strong>to</strong> Dugi O<strong>to</strong>k - it’s within biking distance from Sali.<br />
Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets<br />
and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next <strong>to</strong> the bay -<br />
the water is warm and said <strong>to</strong> be curative, and you can swim<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Dugi o<strong>to</strong>k Tourist Board Obala<br />
Perta Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23)<br />
37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www.<br />
dugio<strong>to</strong>k.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.<br />
Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb,<br />
Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73<br />
93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Q<br />
Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by<br />
Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00<br />
inside park premises. Admission 60kn.<br />
there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient<br />
inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible<br />
treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine <strong>to</strong> fig <strong>to</strong><br />
olive <strong>to</strong> moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is<br />
not commercialised, there are facilities for <strong>to</strong>urists providing<br />
fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.<br />
Iž<br />
This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green,<br />
low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and<br />
Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food,<br />
and offers personal development programs including yoga<br />
and massage. In the <strong>to</strong>wn, you can visit a shop and gallery<br />
displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the<br />
same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used <strong>to</strong> take it <strong>to</strong><br />
Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole<br />
Dalmatian coastline.<br />
The streets are <strong>to</strong>o<br />
narrow for cars, but<br />
luckily the locals are<br />
renowned for being a<br />
jolly and friendly lot, and<br />
will come <strong>to</strong> your aid with<br />
trolleys for your luggage.<br />
The <strong>to</strong>wn’s festival takes<br />
place over 3 days in<br />
August, and showcases<br />
a local oddity, water<br />
basketball. Mali Iž has<br />
lovely beaches. The<br />
i slanders live from<br />
fishing, olives, making<br />
great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs<br />
that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice <strong>to</strong><br />
them, they might take you <strong>to</strong> the islet of Rutnjak, great for<br />
swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim<br />
there.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Zadar Tourist Board office Veli Iž 195, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 27 70 21.<br />
Ist & Molat<br />
Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 -<br />
count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried<br />
away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day,<br />
Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only<br />
a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is<br />
covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep.<br />
It’s great <strong>to</strong> spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by<br />
boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where<br />
the ferry docks.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
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Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It<br />
has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is<br />
good for sailing, fishing and <strong>to</strong>tal relaxation, absolutely<br />
uncommercialised.<br />
Pašman<br />
You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge<br />
from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd <strong>to</strong> Tkon, the<br />
island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and<br />
fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of<br />
sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully<br />
preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating<br />
back <strong>to</strong> the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century<br />
Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac<br />
hill, overlooking the <strong>to</strong>wn. In general, Pašman consists of<br />
peaceful hamlets and coves <strong>to</strong> explore on land or by boat, <strong>to</strong><br />
relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an ecocottage.<br />
If you fancy a little café society, head <strong>to</strong> Ždrelac,<br />
an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also<br />
fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje<br />
Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean<br />
sandy beaches.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Pašman Tourist Board Pašman, tel.<br />
(+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr,<br />
www.pasman.hr.<br />
Tkon Tourist Board Tkon, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 28 52 13, tz-opcine-tkon@zd.t-com.hr. QJune,<br />
September Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 10:00. July,<br />
August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Pag<br />
Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are<br />
extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the<br />
moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns,<br />
with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not<br />
what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But<br />
that’s not necessarily a bad thing.<br />
There are many other weird and<br />
wonderful things about Pag.<br />
It’s oddly squid-like in shape,<br />
with the “tentacles” forming<br />
lagoons. The sea is very calm<br />
here and the water has an<br />
exceptionally high salt content.<br />
There have been saltpans<br />
here for centuries: you can still<br />
buy Pag salt normally in any<br />
supermarket. It’s completely<br />
natural and has a high mineral<br />
content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the<br />
island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and<br />
herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.<br />
These salty herbs lend a special flavour <strong>to</strong> the animals’<br />
meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese<br />
is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export<br />
products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and<br />
hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive,<br />
so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We<br />
recommend being adventurous and trying <strong>to</strong> get hold of<br />
some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts<br />
<strong>to</strong> recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški<br />
sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try<br />
it if you have the chance.<br />
The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace<br />
making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better<br />
for the women of Pag <strong>to</strong> do than keep an eye on a few sheep,<br />
watch salt dry and wait for hubby <strong>to</strong> come home with the<br />
day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.<br />
Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it<br />
is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.<br />
Hours of work goes in<strong>to</strong> a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive<br />
- expect <strong>to</strong> pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from<br />
the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from<br />
a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it<br />
is a beautiful memen<strong>to</strong> of your holiday, and your purchase<br />
supports a vital cottage industry.<br />
In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj<br />
Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, <strong>to</strong> design<br />
the island capital, Pag <strong>to</strong>wn. It has a planned symmetrical<br />
layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the<br />
streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little<br />
cottages, The <strong>to</strong>wn’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was<br />
also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque<br />
Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements <strong>to</strong><br />
create a striking edifice. The <strong>to</strong>wn has a few other interesting<br />
churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches<br />
and several good restaurants.<br />
In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as<br />
Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens<br />
is the <strong>to</strong>wn of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is<br />
the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its<br />
facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres<br />
from <strong>to</strong>wn is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a<br />
number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of<br />
some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened <strong>to</strong><br />
create Croatia’s answer <strong>to</strong> Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Tourist Information Centre Vela ulica 18,<br />
Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@<br />
zd.t-com.hr, www.tzgpag.hr.<br />
cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because<br />
of that, some might find it a bit <strong>to</strong>o noisy and commercialised<br />
in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline<br />
of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places<br />
where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes,<br />
white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of<br />
the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the<br />
mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near<br />
Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and<br />
follow the road <strong>to</strong> the end. You’ll need <strong>to</strong> walk the last bit.<br />
It’s wonderful <strong>to</strong> watch the sun go down, turning the rocks<br />
pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline,<br />
lagoon-calm sea.<br />
Money, money...<br />
Money, money, ancient money! The first ever Croatian<br />
paper currency was the ‘assignat of the City of Pag’,<br />
in 1778. Until then, payments <strong>to</strong> clerks, officials and<br />
doc<strong>to</strong>rs were in salt. Once the ‘assignat’ was launched,<br />
the amount of salt was then converted <strong>to</strong> the lira<br />
equivalent and an invoice was issued. Each ‘assignat’<br />
had an inscription of the amount of money and the date<br />
of issue.<br />
Silba, Olib & Premuda<br />
These small green islands with one village apiece, each<br />
necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual<br />
<strong>to</strong>urist reper<strong>to</strong>ire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar<br />
(see “Getting around”).<br />
Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and<br />
is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere.<br />
The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including<br />
jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays<br />
jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a<br />
large space for art displays inside. Walk <strong>to</strong> the lovely gravelly<br />
beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn <strong>to</strong><br />
windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a<br />
game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2,<br />
Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back<br />
<strong>to</strong> the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of<br />
repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high<br />
<strong>to</strong>wer (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea<br />
captains so that his wife could look out <strong>to</strong> sea and know when<br />
he would return (and know when <strong>to</strong> get his dinner ready?).<br />
Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a<br />
symbol of love.<br />
Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian<br />
islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it<br />
has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure<br />
water <strong>to</strong> the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits,<br />
which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese<br />
is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the<br />
local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely<br />
little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches<br />
including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where<br />
you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the<br />
alphabet in which Croatian was first written.<br />
Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has<br />
an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral <strong>to</strong> explore,<br />
and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that,<br />
expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: s<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and<br />
clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Silba Tourist Board tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10,<br />
tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.silba.net.<br />
Ugljan<br />
That <strong>to</strong>wer you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite<br />
when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike<br />
from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s<br />
name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive<br />
oil production used <strong>to</strong> be one of the main activities here. The<br />
gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant<br />
agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see<br />
ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.<br />
Kukljica is the main <strong>to</strong>urist development on Ugljan, and is<br />
a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way <strong>to</strong><br />
see the numerous his<strong>to</strong>rical sites on the island. There are<br />
a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call in<strong>to</strong><br />
their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk<br />
takes you <strong>to</strong> the other side of the island where you come <strong>to</strong><br />
excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which<br />
are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely<br />
shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church<br />
of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close <strong>to</strong> Kukljica is the<br />
Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a <strong>to</strong>urist settlement<br />
where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade<br />
with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and<br />
shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also<br />
popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day,<br />
taking you <strong>to</strong> Zadar or Preko.<br />
On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of<br />
the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and<br />
everybody complains about how bad the weather is these<br />
days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously <strong>to</strong> a<br />
nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion<br />
- the <strong>to</strong>wnspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and<br />
oddly enough, 90 percent of them went <strong>to</strong> Panama and still<br />
can be seen fishing there <strong>to</strong> this day.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Kukljica Tourist Board Kukljica,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, kukljica@<br />
kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr.<br />
Preko Tourist Board Magazin 8,<br />
Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08,<br />
tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. QJune, September<br />
Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, July - August 31 Open<br />
08:00 - 22:00.<br />
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Za<strong>to</strong>n<br />
This small <strong>to</strong>urist <strong>to</strong>wn is a popular holiday destination for<br />
many visi<strong>to</strong>rs and is located between the two his<strong>to</strong>ric cities<br />
of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape<br />
for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of<br />
its great climate, preserved <strong>nature</strong>, the abundant sports<br />
activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its<br />
rich cultural and his<strong>to</strong>rical heritage. As summer nears, Za<strong>to</strong>n<br />
springs <strong>to</strong> life and as his<strong>to</strong>ry books would have it, remnants<br />
of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the<br />
Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman<br />
period, Za<strong>to</strong>n was a port that was owned by Aenona (present<br />
day Nin) and the <strong>to</strong>wn started <strong>to</strong> gradually develop <strong>to</strong>wards<br />
the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn<br />
from the area. One of Za<strong>to</strong>n’s landmark symbols and a<br />
frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which<br />
is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has<br />
three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the<br />
dome above its center. The church was built with traces of<br />
the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning<br />
of the 12th century. A watch<strong>to</strong>wer was built on the dome<br />
during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower<br />
was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.<br />
The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the<br />
<strong>to</strong>wer indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in<br />
1593. This is one of three <strong>to</strong>wers raised by the Venetians <strong>to</strong><br />
defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Za<strong>to</strong>n<br />
is sanctified <strong>to</strong> the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in<br />
1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the<br />
cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew<br />
is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times<br />
(built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes,<br />
used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition <strong>to</strong><br />
the his<strong>to</strong>rical buildings and artifacts that encompass the<br />
area, visi<strong>to</strong>rs who are looking for somewhere <strong>to</strong> stay can find<br />
something <strong>to</strong> suit everyone’s taste and budget. Za<strong>to</strong>n is filled<br />
with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps<br />
and apartment hotels. The Za<strong>to</strong>n Holiday Resort is a famous<br />
<strong>to</strong>urist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from<br />
the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly<br />
is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family<br />
vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting<br />
activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling<br />
and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the<br />
disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and<br />
pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you<br />
are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with<br />
a lush green backdrop, then Za<strong>to</strong>n is your answer <strong>to</strong> that<br />
unforgettable dream getaway.<br />
Za<strong>to</strong>n Holiday Resort Dražnikova 76t, Za<strong>to</strong>n-NIn,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, sales.dept@za<strong>to</strong>n.hr, www.<br />
za<strong>to</strong>n.hr.<br />
Za<strong>to</strong>n Tourist Board Zadarska cesta 39a, Za<strong>to</strong>n-Nin,<br />
tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, za<strong>to</strong>n-zd@inet.hr, www.za<strong>to</strong>nzd.hr.<br />
QOpen Mon 07:00 - 21:00.<br />
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Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
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Nin<br />
Embark on a journey where the two small <strong>to</strong>urist places of<br />
Nin and Za<strong>to</strong>n will surely amaze you with their anecdotes<br />
of his<strong>to</strong>ry, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.<br />
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic<br />
gems have their very own s<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>to</strong> tell.<br />
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering<br />
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians<br />
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained<br />
control, the <strong>to</strong>wn had flourished as it was an important<br />
harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and<br />
development of import, export and migration attracted<br />
merchants and other settlers <strong>to</strong> the area.<br />
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Za<strong>to</strong>n is twofold.<br />
Visi<strong>to</strong>rs are immersed in the his<strong>to</strong>rical treasures of<br />
the <strong>to</strong>urist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday<br />
experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking<br />
surroundings.<br />
The his<strong>to</strong>rical <strong>to</strong>wn of Nin is situated in the middle of a<br />
shallow lagoon, whilst the his<strong>to</strong>rical part of the <strong>to</strong>wn is<br />
located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius.<br />
Visi<strong>to</strong>rs can enter the old <strong>to</strong>wn via one of two bridges<br />
which lead <strong>to</strong> the blissfully preserved his<strong>to</strong>rical city gates.<br />
The arched gates are the steppings<strong>to</strong>ne <strong>to</strong> a sightseeing<br />
<strong>to</strong>ur of the city walls and the many valuable and his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />
monuments.<br />
Some of the archeological highlights include two original<br />
and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’,<br />
(11th Century) that were found at the entrance <strong>to</strong> the<br />
harbour, the ruins <strong>to</strong> the biggest Roman Temple (from<br />
the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic<br />
chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church<br />
of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known <strong>to</strong><br />
be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver<br />
of the <strong>to</strong>wn as well as the his<strong>to</strong>rical treasures provide for<br />
a feast of culture.<br />
The other attractions that Nin and Za<strong>to</strong>n boast are<br />
their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that<br />
summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the<br />
accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated<br />
apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.<br />
A hidden advantage that entices many <strong>to</strong> this region is<br />
the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for<br />
medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised<br />
medical personnel assist visi<strong>to</strong>rs and patients with<br />
therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its<br />
medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is<br />
performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes<br />
bathing and swimming in warm sea water.<br />
As you wander through Nin or Za<strong>to</strong>n, you’ll find that nothing<br />
much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built<br />
from Dalmatian S<strong>to</strong>ne still stand in their purest form. What<br />
visi<strong>to</strong>rs cherish the most are these magnificent his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />
structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother<strong>nature</strong><br />
that provides the perfect getaway.<br />
We recommend that you visit:<br />
Park Solana Nin Ilirska cesta 4, tel. (+385-23) 26<br />
47 64. Open 07:00 - 15:00. July, August open 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Admission 10kn.<br />
Dar Mar Donkey Farm Poljica, tel. (+385-23) 39<br />
01 23, 098 180 51 71. Admission 10kn.<br />
Nin Tourist Board tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+385-<br />
23) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr.<br />
Biograd<br />
The small but lively <strong>to</strong>wn of Biograd was once an important<br />
political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.<br />
Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic<br />
- travelling throughout their terri<strong>to</strong>ries between their power<br />
bases - often smaller <strong>to</strong>wns, since larger cities such as Zadar<br />
functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of<br />
these royal <strong>to</strong>wns, as was Nin. One of the most important<br />
moments in Biograd’s his<strong>to</strong>ry was the coronation of Koloman<br />
as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the<br />
states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single<br />
crowned head - this time, by treaty.<br />
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in<br />
Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date<br />
925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true<br />
Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was<br />
he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia in<strong>to</strong> a single Croatian<br />
state and built the country in<strong>to</strong> a military power rivalling<br />
Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the<br />
few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked<br />
Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of<br />
St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th<br />
century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta<br />
S<strong>to</strong>šija) built in 1761, with a fine clock <strong>to</strong>wer, a decorative<br />
well in front and baroque altars inside.<br />
of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find<br />
the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just<br />
a ten minute walk from the old <strong>to</strong>wn. Voted one of Croatia’s<br />
best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park.<br />
You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun<br />
and a host of other amenities.<br />
The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and<br />
scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and<br />
apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you<br />
past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and<br />
partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware<br />
that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline<br />
here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find<br />
a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with<br />
a holiday village behind.<br />
Fans of his<strong>to</strong>ry should visit the Homeland Museum, which<br />
has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and<br />
presents a fascinating picture of the <strong>to</strong>wn’s colourful and<br />
turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV<br />
22, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21. Open 09:00-12:00, 20:00-<br />
22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula<br />
with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the<br />
ferry which leaves from the <strong>to</strong>wn quay. Pleasant seaside<br />
promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are<br />
attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east<br />
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Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well<br />
equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place <strong>to</strong> learn <strong>to</strong><br />
windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities <strong>to</strong> try your hand<br />
at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike<br />
route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just<br />
east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby<br />
resort) and <strong>to</strong> Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just<br />
south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since<br />
Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich s<strong>to</strong>ck<br />
of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and<br />
birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain<br />
for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets<br />
more hilly and interesting <strong>to</strong> the north of the lake. There’s a<br />
peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a<br />
nice break from the hubbub of the coast.<br />
Other trips you can take are a boat <strong>to</strong> the islet of Saint<br />
Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s<br />
an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your<br />
host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight<br />
of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati<br />
archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.<br />
Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and<br />
dare we say, Europe.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Biograd n/m Tourist Board Trg<br />
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31<br />
23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd.<br />
hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Information on<br />
activites and trips, and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Ancient Churches and Castles of<br />
Zadar County<br />
Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad<br />
of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient<br />
churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian<br />
kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in<br />
controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly<br />
rich in castles and his<strong>to</strong>ry. For millennia, the area that is<br />
now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles<br />
between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans<br />
vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs.<br />
the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the<br />
Croats. Fortunately for the modern visi<strong>to</strong>r, the only struggle<br />
these days is deciding where <strong>to</strong> go sightseeing first! The sea,<br />
hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop<br />
<strong>to</strong> ancient buildings.<br />
If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit<br />
of the county, the first notable <strong>to</strong>wn encountered is Nin, 16<br />
kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest<br />
church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the<br />
Holy Cross (Crkva sve<strong>to</strong>g Križa). An inscription on the lintel<br />
is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas’s (Crkva sve<strong>to</strong>g<br />
Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an<br />
ancient burial mound, it’s easy <strong>to</strong> spot. When the Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />
Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they<br />
refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated <strong>to</strong>p. It makes<br />
the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians<br />
drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas<br />
was refortified again.<br />
Looking for more?<br />
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Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2,<br />
Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vransko-jezero@<br />
zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero.hr. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer<br />
<strong>to</strong> Park Management only; entry <strong>to</strong> the Park leading <strong>to</strong> Lake<br />
Vransko and its surroundings is open <strong>to</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs all day which<br />
includes weekends.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Val <strong>to</strong>urs Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-<br />
23) 38 64 79, val-<strong>to</strong>urs@val-<strong>to</strong>urs.hr, www.val-<strong>to</strong>urs.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County.<br />
Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies<br />
on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag<br />
Island <strong>to</strong> the north. Templar knights are believed <strong>to</strong> have built<br />
Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a<br />
clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or<br />
west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local<br />
inhabitants <strong>to</strong>ok shelter there. Later the castle featured<br />
prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians.<br />
As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way<br />
<strong>to</strong> this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery<br />
s<strong>to</strong>re in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road,<br />
then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna<br />
at the <strong>to</strong>p of the hill. Follow that dirt road <strong>to</strong> Ljubač. It’s about<br />
a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It’s not advisable<br />
<strong>to</strong> drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it<br />
would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not <strong>to</strong>o far from Ljubač, on the<br />
southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle<br />
fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th<br />
century, it’s just below the bridge from the mainland <strong>to</strong> Pag,<br />
guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag’s barren<br />
landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač.<br />
The two are visible from each other, making one speculate<br />
what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might<br />
have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get<br />
<strong>to</strong> Fortica by going north <strong>to</strong>wards the <strong>to</strong>wn of Pag on route<br />
106 from the Posedarje exit on the A1 mo<strong>to</strong>rway. Novigrad<br />
(literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle<br />
ruin perched on a hill above the <strong>to</strong>wn of the same name,<br />
also has had a turbulent his<strong>to</strong>ry. The Romans, and before<br />
them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of<br />
the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been<br />
modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on<br />
the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km<br />
east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front<br />
line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387)<br />
in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife<br />
of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her<br />
mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian<br />
Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s<br />
defense against the Turks, who occupied the <strong>to</strong>wn during<br />
1646-47. When the Venetians re<strong>to</strong>ok the <strong>to</strong>wn the castle<br />
was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of<br />
1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also<br />
held the <strong>to</strong>wn for two years. There is another spectacular<br />
view of the modern day <strong>to</strong>wn and the sea from the ruins,<br />
which are accessible from several trails. The easiest <strong>to</strong> find<br />
(again, no signs!) starts from the <strong>to</strong>p of some wide stairs that<br />
ascend from the east side of <strong>to</strong>wn. Go right at the <strong>to</strong>p of the<br />
stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around<br />
10 - 15 minutes <strong>to</strong> reach the castle. Obrovac is another<br />
hill <strong>to</strong>p castle/fortress above a modern day <strong>to</strong>wn of the<br />
same name. You can reach this small <strong>to</strong>wn easily from the<br />
Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1. There<br />
are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about<br />
10-15 minutes <strong>to</strong> ascend the steep hill from the middle of<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> the castle. The stately Velebit<br />
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Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built a<strong>to</strong>p a<br />
Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble<br />
family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the<br />
Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars<br />
the Venetians overran the <strong>to</strong>wn, but the Turks reoccupied<br />
it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under<br />
the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bor<strong>to</strong>lazzi, liberated<br />
Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs<br />
captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The<br />
Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the <strong>to</strong>wn there is very little<br />
evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles<br />
worth exploring in the <strong>to</strong>wn of Benkovac, which is 28 km<br />
south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac<br />
exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family,<br />
Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely<br />
res<strong>to</strong>red. It’s on a low hill on the east side of <strong>to</strong>wn. Benkovac<br />
has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and<br />
governments. The Venetians <strong>to</strong>ok over the <strong>to</strong>wn in the 15th<br />
century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They<br />
held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
over. It became a rural county district under the French<br />
Paklenica National Park<br />
The Paklenica National<br />
Park lies just north<br />
of Zadar within the<br />
Ve l e b i t m o u n t a i n<br />
range. Two streams,<br />
the Velika and Mala<br />
Paklenica, c a r ve<br />
their way through the<br />
soft limes<strong>to</strong>ne leaving<br />
gorges with cliffs up <strong>to</strong> 400m high, and fascinating rock<br />
formations characteristic of karst terri<strong>to</strong>ry. The scenery<br />
is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due <strong>to</strong> large<br />
quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests<br />
and lush meadows <strong>to</strong> flourish. Local residents include<br />
the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild<br />
boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx.<br />
The park is a favourite destination for hikers and<br />
climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk<br />
from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica<br />
Canyon <strong>to</strong> the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours),<br />
though there are many more demanding routes. The<br />
park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain<br />
hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on<br />
(+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.<br />
hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on<br />
www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the <strong>to</strong>wn at the park’s<br />
entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number<br />
of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.<br />
Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a,<br />
Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/<br />
(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr,<br />
www.paklenica.hr.<br />
in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied<br />
this <strong>to</strong>wn as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great<br />
Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a<br />
well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main <strong>to</strong>wer is intact, a<br />
rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac <strong>to</strong><br />
the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the<br />
north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will<br />
entice you, but it is not possible <strong>to</strong> reach the site from there.<br />
You need <strong>to</strong> drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on<br />
route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up <strong>to</strong><br />
the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads <strong>to</strong> a private<br />
homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When<br />
the road curves sharply <strong>to</strong> the right you should turn left and<br />
cross the cleared area <strong>to</strong>wards some pine forest. A gravel<br />
track runs along the south end of and then in<strong>to</strong> the woods. At<br />
a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore<br />
others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and<br />
see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a<br />
s<strong>to</strong>ny ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure <strong>to</strong> take a peek<br />
through the <strong>to</strong>wer door <strong>to</strong> get a glimpse of the intact roof.<br />
Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end<br />
of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An<br />
extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac’s<br />
inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in<br />
the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government<br />
officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont<br />
inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar<br />
County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers<br />
south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The<br />
modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient,<br />
ruined, walled <strong>to</strong>wn. Much of the <strong>to</strong>wn walls remain, and the<br />
remains of a church are clearly discernable.<br />
Vrana also has had a turbulent his<strong>to</strong>ry. Originally it was a<br />
Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was<br />
a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
<strong>to</strong> the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana<br />
came in<strong>to</strong> the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights<br />
Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as<br />
medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was<br />
wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the<br />
region. As with nearby <strong>to</strong>wns, the Turks overran Vrana in the<br />
early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg<br />
Atlagić, re-fortified the <strong>to</strong>wn. When the Venetians captured<br />
Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of<br />
the <strong>to</strong>wn’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take<br />
a ferry from Zadar <strong>to</strong> Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey<br />
of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is<br />
the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is<br />
perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and<br />
there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of<br />
Iž Island and Dugi O<strong>to</strong>k (“Long Island”) <strong>to</strong> the west, but also<br />
Zadar <strong>to</strong> the east and countless Adriatic islands <strong>to</strong> the south.<br />
When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main<br />
road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved<br />
road that leads up <strong>to</strong> the west (left). There is a sign pointing<br />
the way <strong>to</strong> the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can<br />
drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that<br />
ascend <strong>to</strong> the summit, <strong>to</strong>o. Various monasteries were located<br />
at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians<br />
fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post.<br />
Because the site is<br />
so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled<br />
Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks<br />
did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a<br />
communications<br />
<strong>to</strong>wer inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere<br />
somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because<br />
of the great views. As you travel around the county you may<br />
observe other hill<strong>to</strong>p ruins. There are many more, but those<br />
described above are the largest and most spectacular. The<br />
fact that they were built for military reasons and changed<br />
hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of<br />
the Zadar area through the millennia.<br />
Zadar In Your Pocket<br />
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S.C.<br />
Alesandra Paravije B-3<br />
Ante Kuzmanića<br />
E-3,4<br />
Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1<br />
Bartula Kašića<br />
D-3/E-3<br />
Bedemi zadarskih pobuna<br />
A,B,C,D-2<br />
Benedikte Braun M-5<br />
Bijanchinija<br />
K-5/B-3<br />
Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2<br />
Blaža Jurjeva<br />
L-6/C-3<br />
Borelli<br />
L-6/C-3<br />
Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3<br />
Braće Bersa<br />
K-6/A-3<br />
Braće Bilšić<br />
K-6/A-3<br />
Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3<br />
Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2<br />
Brodarska<br />
K-4/L-4/C-1<br />
Ćirila Ivekovića<br />
L-6/C-4<br />
Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6<br />
Dinarska J-4<br />
Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3<br />
Đure Sudete<br />
J-3,4<br />
Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Jurja Bijankinija<br />
K-6/B-3 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1<br />
Forum<br />
K-6/C-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4<br />
Foša<br />
L-6/D,E-4 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2<br />
Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Oko vrulja K-4<br />
Fra Šimuna Kliman<strong>to</strong>vića L-6/D-4 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2<br />
Franje iz Milana<br />
L-6/D-4 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3<br />
Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3<br />
Grge Oštrića J-4 Krešimirova obala B-4 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2<br />
Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2<br />
Grigora Viteza L-3 Luke Jelića<br />
K-6/A-3 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3<br />
Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Lukoranska K-4 Poljanska<br />
L,M-3<br />
Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Pravdonoše<br />
K-5/B-2<br />
Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4<br />
Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Madijevaca<br />
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Ivana Bršića K-5 Među bedemima M-6 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6<br />
Ivana Danila<br />
K-6/A-3 Mihe Klaića<br />
L-6/D-3 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3<br />
Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Put Dikla<br />
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J,K-4 Put Šimunova<br />
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Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4<br />
Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3 Narodni trg<br />
L-6/C,D-3 Ravnice M-6<br />
Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Narodnog lista<br />
L-5/D-2 Rikarda Jere<strong>to</strong>va Katalinića L-5/C-1<br />
Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4<br />
Sirac<br />
L-6/D-4<br />
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L-6/D-3<br />
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L-4,5/D-1<br />
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L-4,5/D-1<br />
Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4<br />
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Voštarnica L-4<br />
Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5<br />
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Zadarskog mira K-6<br />
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