Broad horizons Back to nature

34 What to see
What to see
35
City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest
city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls
allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of
its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured
by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications
than there are now, but what are left are put to good use,
with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see
below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells
Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used
as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the
Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful
vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people
crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there
is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.
Cultural Heritage
St Donatus’ Church, Stjepan Felber
Research Library and Historical Archive Zadar’s
Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution
of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb.
It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor
Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia
on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an
attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks.
It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural
and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar
was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia,
under many colonial powers. The documentation kept
here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s
church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s
legal and political past.
St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije)
B-3, Trg svete Stošije. An attractive Romanesque cathedral
- the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th
centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is
separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two
attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery
of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing
seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the
Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative
friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is
worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone
ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved
choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.
St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana
pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely
harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-
Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar
and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular
shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was
founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of
the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years
later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no
longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics
and is used as the concert venue for the annual International
Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The
Musical Evenings in St Donatus’”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed December - April Admission 12 -15kn.
The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a
place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When
people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant
promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called
Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until
the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by
an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at
bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of
Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding
the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of
fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The
Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is
the site of the stunning University building, and is a great
place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip
by day.
Not to be missed
The Zadar sunset
The Riva, Stjepan Felber
Statue of Petar Zoranić
On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with
rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of
the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of
a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding
mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme
in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral
romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at
that time - a time when the city was under siege by the
Turks, but art and culture prospered within.
Churches
When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking
that all the people of Zadar have done through the
centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a
good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing,
and how rich that life has been. Here are the main
highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass
- each has its own timetable. All churches expect you to
cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise
eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused
admittance.
Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od
“Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green
park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the
little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s
best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of
Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older
churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady
of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent
Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the
City of Zadar ).
Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva
sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila
Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian
church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb
on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in
the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the
five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church
architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the
central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.
St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva
sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića
Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora
and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the
simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th
century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th
centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church
of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both
contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric
interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.
St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)
C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved
little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally
belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood
nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are
delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three
semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery.
The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of
frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were
spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s
four patron saints were erected on the altar.
St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4,
Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of
Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in
1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual
central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and
two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the
University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy
of Arts and Sciences.
Not to be missed
Saint Mary’s Church Campanile from 1105
Zadar’s Protection Squad
Zadar has four patron saints. If that seems a bit excessive,
read the History section, you’ll soon understand why.
Here’s the gang:
St Simeon - Sveti Šimun
Saint Simeon (or Simon) is said to have been present at
the birth of Jesus, which is probably why women wishing
to bear a son appeal to him. This also explains why he is
the most popular patron saint: around here, the birth of
a son occasions much quaffing of rakija and Tarzan-like
chest-beating. The saint’s body is kept in an amazing
casket which is opened every year on October 8 (see
Essential Zadar).
St Chrysogonus - Sveti Krševan
St Chrysogonus (or Grisogono in Italian) is the main patron
saint of the city: the City of Zadar Day celebrations are
always held on St Chrysogonus’ day (November 24).
You can see him riding a horse on Zadar’s coat of arms
and flag. He was persecuted and beheaded by Roman
Emperor Diocletian (who built the palace at Split).
St Anastasia - Sveta Stošija
St Anastasia was also martyred under Diocletian, and is
also said to have been present at the birth of Christ. She
cared for persecuted Christians, and unfortunately met
the same fate herself - she was tortured and beheaded.
Her remains now lie in a marble reliquary in the Cathedral,
which is dedicated to her.
St Zoilo - (no translation available)
The least well-known of Zadar’s keepers, St Zoilo
rescued St Chrysogonus’ body when it was washed
up on the shore, and buried it at his home in Venice.
Although Chrysogonus had been beheaded, his body was
miraculously whole. For this and other kind acts, St Zoilo’s
relics were brought to Zadar after his death.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011