Broad horizons Back to nature

28 Restaurants
CAFéS
29
Go Gourmet
The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you
can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A
staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations,
sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying
ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction,
the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the
queen of the sea.
They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right
on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater,
dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain
and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone,
throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use
plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy
bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market.
A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a
special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if
you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them - leave the first
side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in
olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh
bread, local tomatoes and red wine.
When the fešta is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to
try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good
konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any
number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of
goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a
salad.Dalmatian cuisine consists of a healthy mix of fish,
meat and vegetables with lashings of garlic and olive oil.
That’s why the locals are so enviably tall, slim and clearskinned.
Want some? Here’s the lowdown.
Soup usually starts a meal, or treat yourself to pršut
(cured ham) or Pag cheese. Marinated octopus salad
(salata od hobotnice) makes a nice change or a light
meal in itself in hot weather. Risotto is technically a starter
but is normally enough for a main course. Seafood risotto
is delicious; the more daring may like to try black risotto
made with squid ink.
Main courses usually consist of grilled meat or fish.
(Na žaru = on the grill). High grade white fish (Zubatac,
Brancin or Orada are among the tastiest) is priced by the
kilo in restaurants, and is usually smothered in parsley,
garlic, lemon and olive oil. We don’t offer a translation
because it probably wouldn’t mean much to you. Cheaper
options are mackerel (skuša), tuna (tunjevina), sardines
(srdele) or squid (lignje), which are just as delicious.
The classic accompaniment is blitva (chard, or mangold)
which is normally cooked with potatoes. A beloved insult of
the people in the rest of Croatia towards the Dalmatians is
“Blitvari”, meaning “Chard eaters”. Đuveđ is a vegetable
dish not unlike ratatouille.
A more unusual cooking style is ispod peka (roasted under
an iron bell heaped with glowing ash). Octopus cooked in
this way is truly a local delicacy, while škarpina is a lovely
(and inexpensive) pink fish which can be prepared both
this way, or as Brudet - a fish casserole typical of coastal
home cooking, also excellent made with eel (ugor). A less
attractive fishy friend is grdobina (“monster fish”), which
despite appearances is sublime prepared as medallions
wrapped in pršut.
Seafood fans will be
delighted with mussels
(dagnje) or scampi
cooked na buzaru -
in garlic, herbs, white
wine, and sometimes
tomato. Look out for
oysters (kamenice)
from Mali Ston - they’re
the best.
All meat is usually excellent. Look out for lamb grilled
with herbs, or island lamb cooked on the spit (na ražnju).
Soup made from lamb with vegetables is very special.
Pašticada is a beef dish cooked with dessert wine and
preserved fruit which enjoys a cult-like status in these
parts, and for the real experience should be served with
home-made gnocchi (njoki). You can also find good veal,
especially tasty cooked with sage and pršut.
A couple of weeks of that and we guarantee you shining
eyes and a glossy coat.
Drink
Viniculture has always been an important part of life on the
Adriatic and there are many fine Croatian wines. If you are
eating in a traditional konoba, sometimes they will have
home-made wine sold out of the barrel, cheap and fun to
try. Local whites are usually very drinkable, reds tend to be
on the gentle side. If you’re unlucky and hit a bad example,
just add mineral water.
If you fancy trying posh wine, here are some names to look
out for. But don’t be afraid to ask the waiter to recommend
something - they may have something special in.
Whites: Aenona (Marić estate), Maraština (Vinarija
Benkovac) are both high-quality dry whites.
Reds: Postup and Dingač are the most famous top quality
reds, both from the Pelješac peninsula in the south.
Expensive, but worth it. Plavac is an indigenous grape,
producing a powerful southern reds, the best examples
are from Plenković and Zlatan Plančič, both from the island
of Hvar. Babić from Primošten is a softer style.
After your meal, local firewaters, or rakija, could be
šljivovica (plum), travarica (herb), lozovača (grappa), but
then again there’s nothing you can’t make rakija from! If
they have home-made, try it - it’s light-years better than the
shop-bought stuff. Pelinkovac is a local bitter, Prošek is a
dessert wine. Definitely try maraschino cherry drinks.
As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary
sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s
vital to have a chance to catch up with the day’s gossip
over a macchiato. That means the coffee is usually
good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available
everywhere. A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white
coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too.
Boo to globalisation!
72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those
places where local characters congregate, and here they’re
cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‘72, hence the
name. It’s a friendly, unpretentious place with the cheapest
beer in town at 13kn a bottle. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30.
PBX
Ambiental C-4, M. Pavlinovića 8. Artistic motif decorated
with visions from Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Nice
interior, quiet and cozy. Offers over 100 varieties of tea as
well as sandwiches, croissants, over thirty types of chocolate
beverages and has a nice view. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
PJNB
Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A
super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta
night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian
acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-
23) 30 56 84. A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of
conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome
footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can
pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PGB
Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com, www.
callegro.com. The locals say that this café has the best
coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes
nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but
what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view
at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick
back and watch other people strolling through the famous
street Kalelarga! Q June, September Open 07:30 - 24:00,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 01:30, Sun
08:00 - 01:30. PNGBX
Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing
this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R.
Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty
drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and
outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PGBX
Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is
built on the ruins of Saint Catherine’s Church. That may
explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas,
different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PJNB
Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 37. A
fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed
by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous
symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB
Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most
luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee
and watching the sun go down. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
PNGB
Kampo A/B-3, Trg 3 bunara bb. For morning coffee...
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. GBX
Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21. Named after
what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian
ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once
a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat.
Still, it’s a good place to sit on the waterfront and enjoy
coffee and cake, or even a game of pool. QOpen 06:30 -
23:00. PNB
Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The
best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the
interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want to sit
inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful
square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable stop on
the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made
by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A
cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea
captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly
character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX
Moto cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel.
(+385-23) 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the
northern part of town. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs
out, and bikes hang within to make the point absolutely clear.
QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PGBX
Passage M-5, Bartola Kašića 1. On the corner of a red
brick building known by the locals as the “peglica” (little
iron) because of its unusual triangular shape. On the Jazine
bay at the beginning of the Old Town peninsula. QOpen
06:30 - 22:00. PNB
Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means
everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or
simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts
enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and
the tower of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern
and stylish. QOpen 06:30 - 01:30. PGBXW
Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52
75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight
during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the
beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages
a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the
sunset. Nice coffee mugs too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. PNB
Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23)
25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near
the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX
VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23)
30 19 69. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay
VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice
cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful
view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
03:00. BXW
Not to be missed
Maraschino – a bittersweet liqueur that was served at
the royal courts of the English Queen Victoria
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011