Broad horizons Back to nature

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
zadar
Summer 2011
Broad horizons
Concerts and culture to gladden
the heart and move the soul
Back to nature
Zadar County‘s best spots for
fishing and birdwatching
N°8 - complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten
series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

Contents
3
Contents
Arriving in Zadar 5
Wherefore beer?
Basics 6
Tricks, tariffs and smoking
History 7
Zadar districts 9
Culture & Events 10
Everything that´s on in Zadar
Where to Stay 20
Hole up for the night in style (or disrepair)
Restaurants 23
Food goes in your tummy. Mmmmm.
Cafés 29
Where to sit and sip
Nightlife 30
Shake your thang
What to See 33
Eyes front!
Look behind those pretty facades and you’ll discover cool,
atmospheric places and cultural treasures.
Mail & Phones 40
21st century smoke signals
Getting Around 42
All dressed up and somewhere to go?
Sport 45
Climbing, diving and mountain biking
Shopping 48
We´ll help you get rid of that extra cash
Business Directory 50
Lifestyle Directory 51
Birdwatching in Croatia 52
Fishing on the Adriatic 55
Sun. Sea, Fab scenery. Great festivals and parties... Come
on people, what more could you want?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Zadar County 57
Maps & Index
County map 69
City map/Street index 70
City centre map 72
Country map 74
Summer 2011

4 Foreword
Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another
sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew
has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where
to be and what to do. We have something for everyone! A
comprehensive guide to the city’s architectural monuments
will dazzle sightseers, not to mention our special on the
ancient fortresses that were built in defending this gem of a
city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest
national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an
adrenalin rush, can fill their calendars with adventure sports
throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay
along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the
gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés
and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful
tips in choosing where to nibble and dine. We wish you all a
sensational summer!
Guides in an instant...
Did you know you can download free
instant guides to many of our In Your
Pocket destinations? They’re 12-page
versions featuring a careful selection
of hotels, restaurants and other useful
information. Simply go to our international
homepage, www.inyourpocket.com. You’ll see a banner
at the top “Download instant guides”. Click on it, and a
new page will open up. Choose the city you want, click
and print! You’re ready to go!
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Croatia
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1334-9228
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja
Cover The Musical Evenings in St
Donatus Church
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač
Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank
Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan
Bousfield
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka
Valić
Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan
Karabogdan, Maja Vidović
Photos Zadar In Your Pocket team,
Tourist Board Zadar, TZ Dugi Otok,
Stjepan Felber, Robert Marnika,
Stipe Surać, Darko Posavec, National
Museum Zadar
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Višnja Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukičević
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Account Manager Mirna Cindrić
The World In Your Pocket
Northern
Ireland
Ireland
Netherlands
Poland
Germany
Czech
Republic
Austria
Switzerland
Slovenia
Romania
Croatia
Bosnia
Serbia
Bulgaria
Montenegro Kosovo
FYR Macedonia
Albania
Greece
In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands
(Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in
Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland
(Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This
year will also see the first non-European Pockets
rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique.
We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all
our cities. We will be launching even more In Your
Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to
find out which cities we will be covering, and to
keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like
In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Estonia
Russia
Latvia
Lithuania
Belarus
Ukraine
Text and photos copyright Plava
Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
By boat
Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why
waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning
yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go
by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is
spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula.
All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive
wall you see there.
Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona
(Italy) almost every day. See the “Getting around” section for
contact details for schedules and all ticket sales.
Not to be missed
A Greeting to the Sun – an urban installation consisting
of 300 multilayered glass floorboards with a circular
diameter of 22 meters along the waterfront. Photo
powered solar modules absorb sunlight during the day
which produce a light spectacle synchronised with the
rhythm of the waves and the sounds of the Sea Organ.
By bus
Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 060
305 305. Bus travel is the preferred method of public
transportation for earthbound Croatians, because it remains,
for the time being, the quickest and most comfortable way of
getting around the country. Prices are reasonable: a single
ticket to Zagreb costs around 125kn. There are frequent links
to all Croatian cities and, especially in high season, abroad.
The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old
Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the
bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub
and has everything you need. Left luggage: the garderoba
is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs
2.20kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face
the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the
platforms and in front of the building. Shops and cafes: At
least one snack bar works all night, and news kiosks, bakeries
and a mini-market are all open from about 06:00 to 22:00,
except weekends, when they may close earlier. There are
several cafes where you can take the weight off until your
connection arrives. Getting to town: On the road in front of
the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take
you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 8kn
ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 13kn
ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat
07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.
By car
The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a
complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is
the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the
major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time
between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending
on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at
weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway
ArrivING in ZADAR
toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal
resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling
at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the
evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most
currencies are accepted.
If a strong “bura”, a northeast wind, is blowing, the motorway
bridge closes. This rarely happens in the summer, but if it
does, you can now use the reopened Maslenica bridge, which
was destroyed in the war. It’s far more sheltered from these
winds. Take the old road to Maslenica which runs parallel to
the motorway.
For up to date traffic information, check out the Croatian
Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr. They have regular
updates in English, German and Italian. Also listen out for
foreign language reports for tourists on local radio.
By plane
Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar, flight info tel. 20 58
00. www.zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in
Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money:
OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange
service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at
a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting
to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city
bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old
Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the
flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.
By train
Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info
line: 060 333 444, www.hznet.hr. The train station is
right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners
failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means
that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible
but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than
travel by bus. The fastest connections leave Zagreb for Zadar
at 12:15 throughout the tourist season. Journey time is about
7½ hours, involving a change at Knin. Full price adult fares
are 167 - 177kn single and 267 - 283kn return - considerably
more expensive than the slow train, but much faster. Or you
can load your car onto the sleeper for Split and drive on from
Knin. There are several trains per day between Zagreb and
Split, taking anything between 5 and 9 hours, with a change
at Knin. A single ticket costs about 90kn.
The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since
you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of
all the services available there. The ticket office is open
07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets
can be bought on board the trains. A kiosk outside the main
entrance works from 06:00 to about 21:00. Getting to
town: see “By bus”.
Tourist information
i
Tourist Information Centre D-3,
Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61
66, info@tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar.
hr. Q July - September 30 Open 08:00
-24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00.
Zadar County Tourist Board A-3, Sv.Leopolda
Mandića, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31
51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr. QOpen
07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Zadar Tourist Board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel.
(+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzgzadar@zd.t-com.hr,
www.tzzadar.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
5
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

6 basics
History
7
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460
Zadar County: 162,045
Zadar (April 2001): 72,718
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border
with Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named
some of its most pure!
Zadar County: Zadar County measures 7,854km2, of
which roughly half is sea. The islands belonging to Zadar
County measure 580km2.
Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the coast, 47
of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zadar it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
-20 J F M A M J J A S O
Emergency number 112
Photo by Robert Marnika
Police 192
Fire department 93
Ambulance 94
Coast guard 9155
Rainfall, mm
100
N
D
75
50
25
0
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna
equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be
allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts
in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs
offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export
approval before purchase. For further details www.carina.hr
or call +385-1 610 23 25/610 24 61.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Roads
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% alcohol rule applies to
you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0,5% applies
to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to
others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given
the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably
save lives. And the police are enforcing it.
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway
and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the
motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph
on highways.
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,
so make sure to always keep them with you.
Money
The unit of currency is the kuna (kn) - most places are not
able to accept foreign currency. Kuna notes come in 5,
10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000kn denominations,
and coins in 1, 2, 5 and 25 kuna. The kuna is divided into
100 lipa. 50, 20, 10, 5 and even worse-than-useless 2
lipa coins exist.
You can exchange money in banks and private ex change
bu reaux. Bank ATMs are to be found in most towns - but
don’t rely on this in small island villages. Credit cards are
commonly accepted, with the ex ception of smaller restau
rants, shops and guest houses - check in advance.
National holidays
January 1
January 6
April 8 2012
April 9 2012
May 1
June 7 2012
June 22
June 25
August 5
August 15
October 8
November 1
December 25
December 26
New Year’s Day
Epiphany
Easter
Easter Monday
International Workers' Day
Corpus Christi
Anti Fascist Resistance Day
Statehood Day
Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
Independence Day
All Saints’ Day
Christmas
Saint Stephen’s Day
www.inyourpocket.com
Forced to turn their attention seawards, the inhabitants of
Zadar focused on shipping, and the city became a naval power
to rival Venice. It was around this time that rebuilding began
to take place. For example, at this time (the 9th century AD),
St. Donatus’ Church was built.
Meanwhile, the Croatian state was forming inland, and trade
and political links with Zadar began to develop. Croatian
settlers began to arrive, becoming commonplace by the 10th
Century. Zadar sought independence from Byzantium, and
in 1069 was joined by treaty to Croatia under Croatian King
Petar Krešimir IV. In 1102, the Croatian-Hungarian state was
formed, and in 1105 Zadar officially recognised the authority
of the Croatian-Hungarian kings.
The rivalry with Venice intensified, and at the end of the first
millenium the Venetians began a series of onslaughts and
occupations that were to last over three hundred years. In
1202 the Venetians launched a particularly bitter attack with
the help of the Crusaders, whom the Venetian Doge used in
his march towards Palestine. This ended in 1358, when, in a
peace treaty concluded in the Franciscan church, Zadar was
handed over to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King
Ludwig I of Anjou.
Despite all this violence, between the 11th and the 14th
century a golden age of art and culture was nurtured behind
the protective walls encircling the city. Zadar still played
a key role in the administration of Dalmatia, and enjoyed
growth in political and commercial life. Architecture dating
back to this time includes the Cathedral of St. Anastasia,
and many other churches, monasteries, convents, palaces
and public buildings.
Looking for more? zadar.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

8 History
ZADAR DISTRICTs
9
Become a fan of Zadar
In Your Pocket on
In the 15th century, internal fights within the Croatian-
Hungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia,
and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland
and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although
there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar
remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main
port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued -
this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.
In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and
Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by
the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress
in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and
culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague,
however, ravaged the city.
In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling
the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated
Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to
the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in
1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social
reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the
Austrians took the city back again in 1813.
The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next
hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways
progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved,
and the first modern city water system was completed in
1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of
national identity, began to press for linguistic and political
autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded
in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer
fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled,
giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade.
Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In
1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first
town in what is now Croatia.
In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the
1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of
Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast,
including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar
remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the
Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become
part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they
bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.
However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of
rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica
(or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town,
date back to this time. Industry developed and the population
expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the
1960s, the importance of tourism grew.
Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during
the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the
Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in
an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and
Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile
Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of
1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and
bombarded from positions further afield for most of the
duration of the war. The population was forced underground,
surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.
Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding
is now taking place in every sense.
Arbanasi
Arbanasi lies just to the north of Kolovare. It’s an old
district where remnants of Neolithic settlements can still
be found, as well as parts of the Roman aqueduct built to
bring water to the city from Vransko lake 40km away, and a
Roman necropolis in the grounds of the tobacco factory (still
working). Arbanasi was once a settlement in its own right.
It gained its name and its importance in the 18th century
when migrants from Albania settled there after fleeing from
the Turks. Today’s Arbanasi has a gentle, village feel. The
atmosphere is quite different from the rest of the city. It’s
worth a wander round to see how people live day by day away
from the tourist hubbub.
Borik and Diklo
A large complex of hotels and a campsite have evolved at
Borik, which have managed not to overwhelm the forces
of nature, so it’s still one of the most popular places for
tourists and locals alike to spend time at the beach. An
ever-growing number of cafes, bars and restaurants is
springing up to cater for the rising number of visitors, and
quite a bit of renovation is taking place at the moment, so
facilities are ever improving. Heading west from Borik is a
beach-lined coastal path studded with places to eat and
drink, surrounded by ever more peaceful residential areas
and the beach area of Diklo. It’s a quieter place to stay, to
relax and bathe.
Borik
Kolovare
Directly east of the Old Town peninsula is Kolovare, a genteel
district of beachside villas. Kolovare’s seafront is the old town
beach as well, and a popular place to spend free time. You
can walk all the way along the beatifically-named coast path
(Karma) to the promontory at Punta Bajlo and the adjoining
islet Sveti Klement, a former leper colony that is now a
bathing spot (eeew!) The way is tree-lined, so shady by day,
and punctuated by cafes. Near the beginning of the walk is
the Fontana, an attractive 16th century well with a cupola,
built by the Venetians for use by their naval fleets.
Old Town peninsula
It goes without saying, it’s the heart and soul of the city.
Crowded onto the peninsula, fortified in its entireity but
eternally under attack by foes through the ages, parts of
the city have been destroyed and rebuilt so many times over
three millennia that few places on Earth can rival it for its
eclectic mix of architecture.
As well as the dizzying number of churches, monasteries and
historical monuments, it’s also the commercial centre, with
an ever-increasing choice of boutiques and galleries, and,
of course, it’s the centre of social life and cafe society. The
main shopping street Široka (known locally as Kalelarga)
is a busy thoroughfare for people with things to do, even if
that’s only strolling in good company. In summer it’s crowded
with pavement cafes. It’s surrounded by shady parks on top
of the ancient fortifications. The outer promenade beyond
the ferry port, known as the Riva, is a relaxed place to stroll
and swim.
Puntamika
An area with quite some history dating back to Neolithic
settlements. It was an important defensive point because
geographically it guards the shipping entrance to the old town
- that’s why the city lighthouse is here. The coastal road is
bustling in summer, with cafes, restaurants and a marina.
Relja
Relja is just north-east of the peninsula. Notice, as you walk
northwards, some older builings. They are called Talijanke
(“the Italian girls”) because they were built during the times
the Italians ruled Zadar. Though somewhat unremarkable
from the outside, they are architecturally important with
twisting stairwells and pleasant courtyards. Relja now
has a shiny new indoor shopping centre full of boutiques
and cafes.
Voštarnica, Brodarica
Just over the footbridge and heading west, these districts
still constitute the commercial and residential heart of the
city. Continue a little further north and you’ll come to a
neighbourhood known as SAS after a former factory, and
you’ll find the Gotham entertainment complex with its club,
cafe and cinema next to the Nova Banka tower.
…Zadar created basketball
Croatians, giants as they are, are both accomplished
players and passionate followers of basketball (here
called košarka). Much as they love to follow the progress
of their tennis stars on the circuit and their footballing
heroes in the big European clubs, so they watch their countrymen
take on the best in the NBA, whilst netting huge
amounts of cash, model girlfriends and eventual hamstring
injuries. Krešimir Ćosić is perhaps Zadar’s bestknown
player – a mammoth statue in his image stands
guard over the entrance to
the Old Town, basketball
held in meditative awe. He
was the first European in
the NBA. This June, the
city (understandably)
went crazy when Zadar
beat Zagreb team Cibona
to win the Croatian
league for the first time
in 19 years.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

10 Culture & Events
Culture & Events
11
Classical Music Concerts
15.07 Friday
Split String Quartet
St Jerolim’s Church, Ugljan, Island Ugljan. The string
quartet is one of the most featured chamber ensembles in
classical music. This young musical ensemble was founded
in 2005 and is made up of experienced chamber musicians
from Split’s musical circles. The members are Valter Lovričević
(violin), Ana Tošić (violin), Igor Smoday (viola) and Mihovil
Karuza (cello). Concert starts at 20:30
Club Nights
08.07 Friday
Armin Van Buuren
Papaya, Novalja, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya.
com.hr. DJ Mag has voted Van Buuren as the number one DJ
in the world for the third year running. That same DJ is playing
in Croatia at the audacious Papaya Club for the third year in a
row. Hmmm isn’t that odd? It must be for good reason then…
A must see exclusive event with the Lord of Trance pelting
out his hits and giving his audiences that uncontrollable urge
to move and jump in the air - with devotion. Show starts at
23:00. Q Tickets 150kn.
04.08 Thursday
Gareth Emery - Dance Republic
Papaya, Novalja, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya.
com.hr. This Southampton trance DJ is a whizz on the
turntables and is able to produce a high-energy tempo yet
incorporate smooth instrumental tunes to balance the pace
for members on the dance floor fraternity. Named 7th best
DJ in DJ Mag’s Top 100, Emery is emerging as a global star of
trance music. Show starts at 20:00. Q Tickets 150kn.
Zvonko Kucelin
Exhibitions
07.12 Tuesday - 08.12 Saturday
Flora and Fauna of the Adriatic
C-2, National Museum Zadar - Natural history department,
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51.
Who says you need to get wet in order to see what is under
the sea? This exhibit systematically presents its plants and
animals from microscopic flora and fauna through to the
Adriatic’s largest sharks and sea turtles. The exhibition will
showcase 512 items with 52 photographs and 460 animal
or plant samples. Educational and tops for all ages! Q
Admission 5 - 15kn.
02.05 Monday - 02.08 Tuesday
Gnalić - The Treasures from a Sunken Ship
C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra
III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Ahoy matey! See the true
discovery of a 16th century merchant ship that was found 30
meters below sea level in 1967, near the island of Gnalić. The
cargo on board included bronzed cannons with Venetian and
French coats of arms, a huge anchor, decorative objects such
as glasses and chandeliers that all point to famous Murano
glass workshops as well as ceramic dishes, silk cloth, needles,
copper plates and more. Q Admission 10 - 15Kn.
Ljerka Njerš Art Glass
15.05 Sunday - 15.07 Friday
Ljerka Njerš Art Glass
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.
hr. Imagine working with glass requiring 800 degrees for
a thermal finish. This is what Njerš does and she is one
of Croatia’s finest ceramicists having studied at the most
prestigious ceramic, porcelain and lithography workshops
from Lisbon to London. Her glass art work generates light
and embraces all of her previous craftsmanship in ceramics
and tapestry. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.
17.05 Tuesday - 10.06 Friday
Awarded Croatian Architecture 90 - 09
D-3, Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača), Poljana Šime
Budinića bb. Interested in design and construction? See a
showcase of our national award winning architecture over the
last 20 years through the photographs of Miljenko Bernfest.
He portrays the present day condition of previously awarded
projects and depicts not only architecture, but the ways in
which buildings age and change. Just as we do.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

12 Culture & Events
Culture & Events
13
Quadruple hook embroidery on worsted is typical of
women’s folk costume in Northern Dalmatia. The most
common pattern is a cross combined with ornaments such
as knots, rings, tendrils, rosettes and spirals.
18.05 Wednesday - 30.06 Thursday
From the Cosmacendi Palace to the Museum
of Ancient Glass
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33. The former Classicist
Cosmacendi Palace dates from the late 19th century and has
been completely renovated whilst regaining its original façade.
This exhibition presents the history of the Moro bastion on
which the Cosmacendi Palace was built in 1877.
The Museum of Ancient Glass contains 4000 glass objects
dating from the period between the 1st and 5th century, the
early Roman Empire and Late Classical period. The artefacts
derive from the broader Zadar area and from the whole of
Croatia. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.
20.05 Friday - 01.07 Friday
Zadar Photographers
A-3, Arsenal, Tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.
The exhibition shows motifs and photos as donated by the
Zadar Public Museum and Zadar photographers. Viewers can
see photos from different generations: including Pero Gojić,
Abdulah Seferović, Vicko Zaninović and others. The Damaged
Hearing Sense Association, founded in 1955, wishes to inform
the public about their work through this exhibition.
07.06 Tuesday - 21.06 Tuesday
Islands’ Photographers
B-3, Terre Verte Gallery, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-
23) 25 00 40. So you cannot get to all the 1246 Croatian
islands, who can? This traditional exhibition just may help
as the Kornati Photo Club annually present their works,
depictions of towns, boats and landscapes of islands and
the sea.
07.06 Tuesday - 26.06 Sunday
Miljenko Domijan: Terra Toscana
D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. See Florence and its
surroundings like never before as Croatia’s leading
conservatoire presents his impressions and collages of
this majestic region. Of special interest are the small hills,
vegetation and Mediterranean architecture he was able to
capture! This is the 3rd cycle which can be seen this summer.
Q Admission 5 - 10kn.
13.06 Monday - 24.06 Friday
A photo exhibition of Varoš- then and now
L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30
11 03. St. Peter is said to have the keys to heaven, and when
looking at the foundations of the former St. Mary’s Church in
Zadar from a bird’s eye view, a perfect blueprint of a 6 leafed
key can be seen. Legend has it that is resembles the keys of
St. Peter. This exhibit presents 80 photos of the former city
gate of Stomarica and ruins of St. Mary’s Church.
16.06 Thursday - 30.06 Thursday
Branka Riđicki
D-3, Kapetanova kula (The Captain’s Tower Gallery),
Trg 5 bunara bb. Local born artist who through her travels
and studies presents some of her works in painting, media,
photography and film. She has developed an interest in
different cultures which can thoughtfully be seen through
her art.
28.06 Tuesday - 12.07 Tuesday
A photo exhibition of Zadar County
D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime bb. Want to see more
of Zadar but you can’t? Want a true souvenir but you can’t find
one? Then this exhibit brings the best of Zadar to you! See
the county’s unspoilt countryside over and above its cultural
and traditional beauty. A great gift is the monograph available
with over 200 pages of photographs and information. Q
Admission 10kn.
01.07 Friday - 30.08 Tuesday
Exhibition by the HDLU members Zadar
D-3, Kapetanova kula (The Captain’s Tower Gallery),Trg
5 bunara bb. These are the yearly and latest works by
members of HDLU Zadar (Croatian Society of Fine Artists).
Not to be missed
The Museum of Ancient Glass – situated in the
Cosmacendi Palace
“Little Red Riding Hood” was the first performance of
the Zadar Puppet Theatre in 1951. This year the theatre
celebrates 60 years of work and gets a new building into
the bargain. You can see the theatre’s work during the
Zadar Summer Theatre on 4 July at 21.30 in Dt Dominik’s
Church, when there will be a performance of Miroslav
Krleža’s Michelangelo Buonarotti.
18.07 Monday - 02.08 Tuesday
Dalibor Rubido
B-3, Terre Verte Gallery, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-
23) 25 00 40. Water in its purest form is the essence of
Dalibor Rubido’s artistic expression. As the best graduate
in his year from the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb, he too
was a rower, and an active athlete. Despite not partaking in
such activities as often now, his artwork continues to show
his love and passion for water.
18.07 Monday - 18.08 Thursday
Predrag Petrović - The Ceramics and Glass of
the island of Iž
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr.
Meet a man who has been working as a potter for 23 years
and presents the making of traditional ceramics with glass.
Petrović mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is
now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has
been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature
of Iž pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on
leather and baking it on an open fire. Its preparations last for
days. And who could ever forget the old pottery wheel which
has been long abandoned in other places? Q Admission
10 - 30kn.
08.08 Monday - 01.09 Thursday
Photo Exhibition by Zvonko Kucelin
D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. One of the stalwarts of
photography in this region will exhibit 100 of his finest
photographs as a newspaper reporter. See Kucelin’s works
which represent his 30 year career with topics that include
culture, sport and politics from his hometown of Zadar to
faraway New York. He brings to life the first 20 twenty years
of his photography with black and white images and the last
10 years are in colour. Q Admission 5 - 10kn.
28.08 Sunday - 30.09 Friday
Dražen Trogrlić - Glass Sculptures
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.
This jack of all trades expresses himself through various
mediums from fine art, drawing and print, to sculpting rock,
metal and glass. Trogrlić treats volume, surface and texture
as elements of the same value. By using transparent glass
and non transparent wood, he brings forth an enchanting
visual tension between these two materials. Q Admission
10 - 30 kn.
23.12 Friday - 30.01 Monday
Angels Without Borders
D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog
odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.
Ivo Pervan is an award winning Croatian photographer who
has ventured between heaven and earth for this exhibit. He
depicts angel motifs of different materials and techniques
from Croatia through to Sofia, Rome, Berlin and Mainz. By
crossing borders, he hopes to bring that touch of divinity to
his work. Photos which in reality are only 2cm big have been
enhanced so that even the tiniest angels found on church
tops, can now be seen. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.
Cinemas
Callegro Cinema C-3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-
23) 20 49 00, info@callegro.com, www.callegro.
com.
CineStar N-5, Murvička 1 (City Gallery), tel. (+385-)
060 32 32 33/(+385-23) 62 88 54.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

14 Culture & Events
Culture & Events
15
Dubioza kolektiv
The Museum of Ancient Glass
The museum is housed in the nineteenth-century
Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls
overlooking Jazine harbour.
The museum contains one of the finest collections
of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of
goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites
across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin
(Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe
(Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels
used by Roman-era ladies to store perfumes, skin creams
and essential oils. These treasured items of domestic
glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners
– much of the collection comes from excavations at
Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader
was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early
Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which
holy water was stored.The replica Roman glassware
museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of
the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.
As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop
where you can learn more about the almost forgotten
craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for
just that.
Opera, Operetta & Ballet
13.07 Wednesday
Rigoletto
B-3, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.donat-festival.
hr. An opera ensemble from Italy performs one of Verdi’s
masterpieces.This three-act opera has the makings of an
epic. From the portrayal of Rigoletto the hunchbacked jester,
to the Duke, a ladies’ man of his time, and Gilda, the innocent
victim, this is a story of love, treachery and vengeance. Opera
starts at 21:00. Q Tickets 70 - 80kn. J
Rock & Pop Concerts
17.06 Friday
Urban&4
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. A
melodic to heavy pop/rock/industrial singer, songwriter and
guitarist. He had his first public performance as a 16 year old
in Rijeka with the band “La bellona” and has won numerous
music awards. Urban’s stage presence is exemplary, emotive
and a treat. Many conisder him Croatia’s David Bowie with
similar vocals.
25.06 Saturday
Dubioza kolektiv
D-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke i Park Kapetanski.
One of the wonders in this region are Bosnian outfit ‘Dubioza
kolektiv’, last year the band released their fourth album
entitled “5 do 12” which is on the list of 20 albums nominated
for the ‘European Independent Album of the Year’ Award. The
band plays a reggae/dub/rock style of music with burning
lyrical subjects that deal with corruption, bureaucracy,
recession and poverty. Q J
26.08 Friday
Rade Šerbedžija
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.
The famous Croatian and Hollywood actor will hold a concert
as part of the Forum Film festival. He is accompanied by the
members of his multi talented family, and is showing his
mastery in both theatrical stage bravura as well as folk-ethno
musical sounds.
Coming soon
UB 40
B-3, Forum. British dub/reggae/pop act UB40 ought to
soothe your souls as you escape the daytime summer
heat. They have sold a whopping 70 million records and
hits such as ‘Red Red Wine’, ‘Can’t Help Falling in Love’
and ‘I Got You Babe’ topped billboard charts worldwide.
Few acts have put reggae back on the world map as have
these lads from Birmingham. Concert starts at 22:00. Q
Tickets 100kn available at the www.eventim.hr or Tourist
Information centre, Mihe Klaića 2. J
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

16 Culture & Events
Culture & Events
17
Antonija Gospić
Special events
10.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday
Festival of the Amateur Culture and Creativity
- F.A.K.K.
D-3/4, Dom hrvatske mladeži - Mihovila Pavlinovića bb,
Student Centre Božo Lerotić, Deputy Palace (Providurova
palača). A plethora of music, art, workshops, film and
hands on do it yourself activities are up for grabs. Hand
made products will be exhibited by amateur artists, attend
workshops on hand embroidery and stencil art, learn how
to make graphite stencils by using Photoshop and more.
Amateur films from the 10th RAF Festival will be screened.
Wind down with the ‘chill sessions’ after 22:00. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. J
23.06 Thursday - 24.06 Friday
Tango Festival
A-3, Arsenal, Trg bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.
Love Latino and tango? Then get into the swing of this dance
bonanza as performance groups and pairs strut their stuff
at the 2nd edition of this event. Passers by are more than
welcome to join in and even learn from the best!
23.06 Thursday - 25.06 Saturday
The 1st Jadera Urban Music Fest
D-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke i Park Kapetanski.
Three days of home grown talent is what this event is all
about. The opening is reserved for the finals of the Zadar
guitar playing contest followed by legendary punk/rock party
animals Psihomodo Pop. The second day brings In Ruff and
Go Mars from Osijek, Postolar Tripper, Kawasaki 3p and the
almighty rock larrikins Let 3. The icing on the cake is on day
3 with bands E.N.D., Sexymotherfuckers, the Dubioza kolektiv
and Partibrejkers.
24.06 Friday - 02.09 Friday
Feštice
Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals,
or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s
big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh,
simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a
popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups
(klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional
fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to
the general warmth and gaiety.
27.06 Monday - 30.06 Thursday
Get EXITed music festival
Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag.
An additional event has been added to Papaya’s scorching
summer calendar with Get EXITed. Consider this the appetiser
to one of the world’s largest festivals, the EXIT festival in Novi
Sad, Serbia. This open air event will have you bopping day
and night with some of the finest DJ’s turning the tables and
coming our way. Q Tickets 150kn at www.eventim.hr.
30.06 Thursday - 04.08 Thursday
The 17th Zadar Summer Theatre
C-3, Deputy’s Palace (courtyard), St Dominic’s Church
(D-3), Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Zadar, Široka ulica 8,
tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr. One of the
city’s traditional summer events with theatre performances
and musicals to be held in the evenings, set amidst historical
grandeur. A repertoire of local and foreign art performances
are scheduled. This year’s programme is divided into two:
Part 1 presents a drama and dance programme whilst
Part 2 is the musical programme called The Contemporary
Music Festival.
Some of the concerts this summer:
21.07. Jazz Hondo at 21:30
25.07. Andromeda Turre Quintet at 21:30
28.07. Saskia Laroo Project at 21:30
04.08. Marcelo Godoy & Nelson Latif at 21:30
Q Tickets 50kn and available at the box office.
06.07 Wednesday - 13.07 Wednesday
The 6th Garden Festival - Back to our roots
Petrčane (near Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 36 47 39, www.
thegardenfestival.eu/hr/. Petrčane is a beautiful little
fishing village. It’s 900 years old with pine forests, old
cottages and villas on the sea front. When summer hits, the
Garden Festival attracts 1000’s and tickets are limited. The
line-up is huge with DJ’s from all over the world; the festival
runs for 8 days and nights, it includes the Argonaughty
boat cruise which is a great party voyage out over the
open sea by day and at night in particular, the entire place
is a buzz. You cannot miss this amazing experience. Visit
www.thegardenfestival.eu/en/ for all info, including DJ’s
and stages.
Saljski užanci, Jure Mišković
08.07 Friday - 11.08 Thursday
The 51st Musical Evenings in St Donatus’s
B-3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral,
St. Francis’ Church, Forum (Croatian National Theatre
Zadar, Široka ulica 8), tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.
donat-festival.hr. If you enjoy the ambience of music within
a holy setting, then this international music festival which
combines music and beautiful old church architecture will
delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles
and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber
music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important
cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Box office Open
11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays
only at the concert venues. Tickets 40 - 80kn available at
the box office.
20.07 Wednesday
Adria Air Race Zadar
Riva. Top Gun eat your heart out as Zadar is home to this
multiple aircraft competition where the rules are oh soooo
stringent. Competitors compete against the clock and are
judged on performance. From loops and rolls, the manoeuvres
are breathtaking. If you missed the last Air Race in Dubai, then
descend towards Zadar for a heavenly thrill.
23.07 Saturday
Millenium Jump
B/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. When in Zadar do
as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here
for this growing event which is being held for the fourth year
in a row. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people
form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water
forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air!
The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty
of Humanities and Social Science.
24.07 Sunday - 27.07 Wednesday
Feel Free Festival
Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, www.aquarius.hr/zrce/en/.
Dutch dynamo Laidback Luke takes the spotlight with his
electro-house rhythms and does everything to make the
audience move to his blockbuster beats. Fellow countryman
DJ Chuckie whose hit ‘Let the Bass kick in Miami’ returns after
his mesmerizing performance last year. Avicii from Sweden
may be the baby of the group but this emerging talent has
already worked with David Guetta and Roger Sanchez, electro
and house are his forte. Q Tickets 150kn.
Looking for more?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
UB 40
27.07 Wednesday - 28.07 Thursday
Jazz and Wine Days
A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20.
What a complimentary blend as visitors can sample the vast
range of local wines amidst some soothing jazz tunes. The
ZZ Quartet (Simone Zanchini from Italy plays the accordion
with Croatian Ratko Zjača, a jazz guitarist who has played with
the likes of Randy Brecker and Benny Bailey) will perform at
the opening and the second day will see bossa nova group
the Dino Rangel Trio.
28.07 Thursday - 29.07 Friday
KalelargArt
A street art festival that includes dance and theatre
performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas,
street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is
taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations
and at various times from dusk till dawn.
01.08 Monday - 03.08 Wednesday
Beat the Heat
Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, www.aquarius.hr/zrce/en/.
Another smashing festival with three world class DJ’s.
Dutchman Dash Berlin opens the festival with his progressivetrance
mixes, his hit singles are, ‘Till the Sky Falls Down’ and
‘Man on the Run’. Benny Benassi, the Italian electro/house DJ
will whet your appetites as he spins the tables on day 2 whilst
Sander Van Doorn blasts the colossal speakers at Zrče with
his fusion of trance and house for the finale. Show starts at
22:00. Q Tickets 150,00kn.
06.08 Saturday
The traditional Fishermen’s Čeprljandska
fiesta
Ugljan, Island Ugljan. When on the island of Ugljan, do as
the Ugljani do! They sure know how to put on a feast and
this traditional event is rich in music, sporting contests, and
culinary presentations of Dalmatian and island specialties.
Just as a note, the town of Ugljan, which is the biggest on
the island of Ugljan, is famous for having the most hours of
sunshine in the Zadar Aquatorium. So let it shine!
06.08 Saturday - 13.08 Saturday
15th International Festival of Contemporary
Theatre
The City Forum, St. Donatus’ Church, St Dominic’s
Church. This is the meaning of “Zadar snova”, a rather more
avant-garde cultural festival, held for the eighth time between
6-13 August. Expect modern dance, new film, exhibitions and
workshops in comic strips, theatre, humanitarian events,
music and drum’n’bass DJs and more. Unmissable!
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

18 Culture & Events
Culture & Events
19
Theatres
Croatian Theatre House (Kazališna kuća
Zadar) C-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86,
hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr, www.hkk-zadar.hr.
Zadar Puppet Theatre E-2, Obala kralja Tomislava
bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 27 54.
Galleries
Miljenko Domijan, Terra Toscana
Arsenal A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38
20, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.
com. Q June 13 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 -01:00.
City Library Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23)
30 11 03. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Admission
5 - 10kn.
Knight’s Palace D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission
10kn.
Terre Verte B-3, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+385-
23) 25 00 40. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun.
The Captain’s Tower Gallery (Kapetanova
kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara bb. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00,
18:00 - 20:00. Sun Closed.
Saskie Laroo, photo by Željko Karavida, Croatian National
Theatre Zadar
06.08 Saturday - 12.08 Friday
2nd Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival
Starigrad, tel. (+385-23) 369 18 73, info@spff.hr,
www.spff.hr. This serene old coastal town turns musical
by paying tribute to both Croatian and world musical greats
through film documentaries. The festival presents local and
world productions showing musical icons in a different light,
through biographies or whilst at work creating their music.
What’s more, the town turns into a stage with matinees and
concerts held across various town locations.
06.08 Saturday
Moon & Rocks Festival
Novalja Stadium, http://moonnrocks.com/. What a lineup
on Pag? Tino Maas takes the stage with his progressive
house and trance mania juxtaposed by some techno roar.
He has mixed for Fat Boy Slim and Madonna amongst
others. Infected Mushroom debut in Croatia and come from
Israel, they play psychedelic trance and are known for their
explosive shows with elements of rock for that element of
surprise. Home grown DJ’s Go Cut and Ludvig are associated
with ‘Astralis’, a famous club in Zagreb, they have toured
the world and blend electro, house and progressive sounds
in their own respective ways. Show starts at 17:00. Q
Tickets 99.00kn.
06.08 Saturday - 07.08 Sunday
Saljski užanci
Sali, Dugi otok. As tradition stands, you will be invited by a
band of young musicians dressed in ceremonial outfits who
march through the town playing a horn type instrument. And
that’s when the fun begins; donkey races, klape (acapella
singers), Croatian musicians, folk ensembles and local food.
This bonanza is held in Sali on the island Dugi otok.
12.08 Friday - 14.08 Sunday
Stop Making Sense Festival
The Garden Punta Radman, Petčrane (near Zadar),
info@stopmakingsense.eu, www.sms-2010.com. Top
notch DJs and bands mixing genres from jazz, folk and Latin
to house and techno via reggae, dubstep and electro. What
an ideal combination of sun, sea and entertainment! And did
someone say that the festival has its own private beach?
Indeed! Go for a splash between acts or order drinks at the
Tiki Bar. Starts at noon and runs through to 6am. Dance your
senses away! Q Admission 200 - 400kn.
13.08 Saturday
Full Moon Festival
B/C-4, Riva. On the night of the full moon in high summer,
the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into
floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the
famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan), clams from Pašman and
mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve
everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and
traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to
Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of
the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable
event.
13.08 Saturday - 13.08 Saturday
Papaya Day&Night Summer Festival
Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag. Papaya is Croatia’s counterpart
to Ibiza and is one of the best open air clubs in Europe. It is
set on the island of Pag, Novalja, on the beautiful beach Zrće.
During the day, enjoy the most popular dance beach parties
which continue into the night under the starry sky. Special
festival themes add to the flavour as some of the hottest
names in world electronic music pump their endless tunes.
Brace yourselves as the outstanding line-up says it all…
13 - 16.07 Papaya Day & Night Summer Festival
28 - 30.07 Axe After Beach Festival
11 - 13.08 MTV Mag Festival
Q Tickets at www.eventim.hr.
23.08 Tuesday - 28.08 Sunday
The 2nd Film Forum Festival
Forum (B-3), City Library (L-4), Puppet Theatre (D-3),Riva
(A-4), The Museum of Ancient Glass (D-2), Five Wells
Square (D-3), tel. (+385) 99 413 43 59, office@
filmforumzadar.com, http://www.filmforumzadar.com/
en/the-player/. In partnership with the Producers Network
at the ‘Marche du Film’ in Cannes, this event conjugates
over 500 world producers who kindle international film coproductions.
This year features European co-productions
and documentaries, a reminiscent section named ‘Classics
on the Adriatic’ and more. We just might meet the new
Spielberg here?
Workshops
16.07 Saturday - 22.07 Friday
The 10th Photo Workshop in Sestrunj
www.robertmarnika.com. Learn the be all and end
all of photography on the island of Sestrunj, its tranquil
surroundings are perfect to enhance your skills in capturing
digital images, varying techniques, photo-shop, outdoor
and underwater shooting, plus more. Be quick to apply as
there are two, seven day workshops. BYO digital camera and
notebook (if possible)!
Photo Workshop in Sestrunj
www.inyourpocket.com
Art Deco in Croatia
The exhibition “Art Deco in
Croatia in the Interwar Period” at
the Museum of Arts and Crafts in
Zagreb has been so well received
both at home and abroad that
it has been extended until 28
August 2011. This gives tourists
visiting Zagreb over the summer
the chance to see one of the
most popular exhibitions here
in recent years, while students
and art lovers can still arrange
their trip to Zagreb to visit the
exhibition.
By the end of May 2011 more
than 45,000 people had visited
Perfume Bottle
the exhibition. You can see over 750 art works including
paintings, graphics, sculpture and applied arts featuring
fashion and furniture
design and more. It
has been written about
by France’s Le Figaro
and received extensive
radio coverage in the
Spanish-speaking world
as evidence that the
“roaring twenties” was
Art Deco, Jelena Babić, Bowl
Art Deco, Falko,
alive and kicking in
Croatia too.
You can watch informative presentations on the Art
Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there
is live music in the spirit
of 20s cabaret, and the
museum is open until
22:00. On Saturdays
and Sundays there are
workshops for children.
Everyone will enjoy the
chance to buy replicas
and other souvenirs, a
catalogue, a DVD or an
audio guide.
Art Deco, Shoes
Info at (+385-23) 488
21 11, (+385-23) 488 21 25, www.muo.hr.
Art Deco, Armchair, Srećko Sabljak
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

20 Where to stay
Where to stay
21
Upmarket
Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel.
(+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@
hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. If you’re seeking
accommodation in the historical centre of the city, look
no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is
equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness
centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet
at your feet. The Garden Club is situated right beneath the
hotel itself. Q28 rooms (23 singles €179, 23 doubles €219,
3 suites €337, 1 President apartment €420, 1 Junior Suite
€298). PJHAFLGBKD hhhh
Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana F-4, Majstora
Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 20 63 00, fax (+385-23)
55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com,
www.falkensteiner.com. A “lifestyle hotel”, once you’ve
seen it, you’ll want to buy into it. The ultimate in comfort
and tasteful design, with a surrounding park and pool area
which are a sight for sore eyes, day or night. Prices are per
person full board. Q48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €90 - 120).
PHAFEGBKDC hhhh
Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik F-4, Majstora
Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 20 61 00, fax (+385-
23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com,
www.falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel with
modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at families
with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua park, plus the
galaxy of sports, activites and excursions. Family rooms can
accommodate up to three children. Prices are per person per
day, all-inclusive and for Luxury Suite available upon request.
Q258 rooms (54 doubles €102 - 136, 88 Mini Family €113 -
149, 53 Family Royal €121 - 160, 59 Family Suite €138 - 175,
4 Luxury Suite). PTHAUFEBKDC hhhh
Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 21 10
17/(+385-23) 20 32 00, fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.
kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. The
closest hotel to the Old Town recently got a facelift. Most
rooms face an open air swimming pool and the beach at
Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of well-to-do villas. Prices
are per room per night, including breakfast. Q203 rooms
(27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 - 1334kn,
36 triples 1477 - 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn).
PTJHAUGBKC hhhh
Zadar.inyourpocket.com
Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with
Zadar In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf
our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably
updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the
button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations
site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot
is hot to trot, and off you go!
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
O Casino
T Child friendly
R Internet
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking
G Non-smoking rooms
6 Animal friendly
C Swimming pool
Mid-range
Donat F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23)
20 65 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@
falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. Part of the
Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and
you’re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options.
Prices are per person all-inclusive. Q240 rooms (36 singles
€57 - 75, 126 doubles €51 - 68, 34 triples €51 - 68, 44 Family
Rooms €67 - 73). PTHAEGBKC hhh
Hotel Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23)
33 78 00/(+385-) 098 46 50 45, fax (+385-23) 33 36
16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. A rather colourful new villastyle
building, close to all the Borik amenities. All rooms are
comfortable and air-conditioned, and have good balconies,
although the view of the local Konzum may not be quite what
you were hoping for. Prices include breakfast. Q21 rooms (17
doubles €70, 4 triples €80). PALBK hhh
Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23)
33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr,
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close
to the Borik complex and beaches. It’s a pleasant, clean,
family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms
have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and airconditioning
available. Prices are per room with breakfast.
Q30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 570 -
720kn). PTALBK hhh
Porto R-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23
00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr,
www.hotel-porto.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about
15 minutes’ drive from the centre offers reasonable prices,
clean bright rooms, and decent food. It’s on the crossroads
heading towards the airport and the Split highway, so it’s ideal
for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103
rooms (8 singles €58 - 64, 38 doubles €41 - 44, 51 triples €32
- 35, 6 apartments €32 - 35). PHALGBK hhh
Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23)
33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr,
www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road to Puntamika, a
beautiful Italian villa renovated to create a delightful hotel.
Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you
can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town
nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two to four. Prices are
per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120,
6 suites €130 - 220). PALGKC hhh
Villa Nico F-3, Krešimirova obala 138, Diklo, tel.
(+385-23) 33 11 98, fax (+385-23) 33 19 60, nico.
moric@villanico.t-com.hr, www.hotel-villanico.com.
Right on the seafront in the beach neighbourhood of Diklo
a few kilometres west of the Old Town. All rooms have king
size beds, satellite TV and mini bar. There’s a fitness centre
and garage. Prices are for the room plus breakfast. Oh, and
it’s pink! Q25 rooms (25 singles 400 - 550kn, 25 doubles
550 - 725kn). PALGBK hhh
Hostels
Drunken Monkey Hostel P-6, Jure Kastriotića
Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099
415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@gmail.com, www.
drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. Hostel is ideal for backpackers.
It is situated at the Arbanasi district close to the Bus Station
and Kolovare Beach, and the old town is only a 20-25 minute
walk away. The hostel has got all the necessary facilities
including kitchen, individual rooms and a small bar, as well
as laundry service. Q 38 dorm beds, 200 - 500kn per
person. PJCW
Zadar Youth Hostel G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel.
(+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@
hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of the large pavilions
in Zadar’s youth hostel complex has been fully renovated.
Before now, the hostel was best avoided. If you’re lucky
enough to book into the new place, you’ll pay a little extra.
Sports facilities and restaurant, friendly and helpful staff.
Prices are per person for bed and breakfast. Rooms for
between 2 and 8 people. Q 298 dorm beds, 21 - 35€ per
person. HUGBKW
Camping
Autokamp Planik Ražanac, tel. (+385-23) 65 14 31/
(+385-) 098 27 21 87, planik@planik.hr, www.planik.
hr. Ražanac is a village just before the bridge to Pag, with
historic ruins nearby. The camp is excellent, with clean sand
and shingle beaches. They offer excurisions, including rafting
on the Zrmanja river as well as riding, yoga, aqua aerobics
and activities for the kiddywinks. Accomodation tax €0,55
- 0,85. Q Person / per day €2 - 5, Tent €2 - 5, Car €2 - 4,
Camping trailer €2 - 5.
Borik F-3, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel./fax
(+385-23) 33 20 74, info@campingborik.com, www.
campingborik.com. The Borik hotel complex is set in pine
woods by a good beach; the campsite is pleasant and wellequipped.
A few minutes’ bus ride from the centre - or the
coastal stroll is far from unpleasant. Shops, restaurants, and
bars nearby. Q Person / per day €3 - 7, Pitch €6 - 17, Parking
€4 - 6, Accomodation tax €0,5 - 1. AK
Out of town
Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29
07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com,
www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a
pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within
and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar.
Close to the heart of Biograd and the town’s excellent beach,
the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are
per person including breakfast. Q105 rooms (5 singles
€77 - 128, 95 doubles €45 - 75, 5 apartments €75 - 125).
PTJHAFLEBKDC hhh
Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv.
Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23)
38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr.
This lively little town south of Zadar has great beaches, and
the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and
simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound.
Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is also
available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90 rooms
(90 apartments 207 - 412kn). PHALBK hhh
Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-
23) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@
hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built,
recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and
airy accommodation, a super terrace, a restaurant and
saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and
apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast
included. Q76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 -
110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKD hhh
Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. (+385-23) 39
65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com,
www.ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina
and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have
been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation.
The remaining floors are a little cheaper. Ample sports
facilities close to the centre of Biograd. Prices per person
including breakfast. Pets welcome on request. Q168 rooms
(160 singles €80 - 137, 160 doubles €47 - 81, 8 apartments
€75 - 125). PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

22 Where to stay
Restaurants
23
Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23)
35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.
com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean,
comfortable and has a great location in a green spot near
the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It
shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the
Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices
per person with breakfast. Q106 rooms (102 singles
€77 - 137, 102 doubles €45 - 81, 4 apartments €70 - 115).
PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh
Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, tel. (+385-23) 39 14
20, fax (+385-23) 39 14 21, info@marenostrum-hr.com,
www.marenostrum-hr.com. A new hotel in lavender-filled
gardens right on the beach at Sveti Petar, a small town
between Zadar and Biograd. Delightful, modern airy rooms, all
with air conditioning, satellite TV and great balconies with sea
views. Friendly staff. Prices include breakfast. Q14 rooms
(14 doubles €56 - 100). PALBK hhh
Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+385-
23) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr.
A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula
10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and
sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes
and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta),
sports and excursions. Prices per person half board. 30%
supplement for stays under 3 nights. Q340 rooms (24
singles €54 - 84, 216 doubles €48 - 74, 63 triples €48 -
74, 10 apartments €87 - 296, 27 Family Rooms €48 - 74).
PTJHAUFBKDC hhhh
Villa Nela Punta Radman, Put 7, Petrčane, tel. (+385-
23) 36 46 60, fax (+385-23) 36 46 70, info@velcektours.com,
www.velcek-tours.com. A new villa with clean
and airy apartments, and a sea-water pool in the delightful
pine-shaded garden by the sea, where you can swing yourself
to sleep in a hammock. Apartments can accommodate up to
five; all have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the sea.
Q12 rooms (3 Studio €60 - 120, 3 1-Bedroom €75 - 135,
3 2-Bedroom €85 - 160, 3 Large 2 Bedrooms €90 - 185).
PJA6LGBC hhh
Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova ulica 76, Nin - Zaton,
tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, sales.
dept@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an
attractively planted apartment village and excellent campsite
placed to take advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Zaton.
Zaton has a huge array of activities, including water sports,
horse riding, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and
a popular nightclub. Q590 rooms (590 apartments €30 -
248). PTA6UFLEBKCS hhhh
Islands
Agava Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91,
fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www.
hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in an idyllic island
village, with a new swimming pool, sauna, jaccuzi, massage,
fitness centre, tennis and diving in Božava’s famous clear
waters. Recently refurbished, with accommodation in
apartments with kitchenettes. Prices are per person with
breakfast, based on two people sharing. Q18 rooms (18
Family Rooms €43 - 77). PHA6FKDC hhh
Korinjak Veli Iž, Iž Island, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 64, fax
(+385-23) 27 72 48, info@korinjak.hr, www.korinjak.
hr. Hotel Korinjak runs summer courses under the umbrella
programme “Soul Vacations”. Learn to understand yourself,
reduce stress, and more... Also yoga courses. A vegetarian
menu and relaxing activities complement the courses. Prices
are per person per day. Q78 rooms (15 singles 317 - 370kn,
63 doubles 225 - 375kn). HALGBK hh
Lavanda Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12
91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr,
www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been
fully refurbished. All rooms have balconies with a sea view.
Božava is perfect if you’re looking for peace and quiet in
pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts.
You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above. Prices
are per person with breakfast. Q88 rooms (88 doubles
€43 - 77). PA6FBKDC hhh
Stjepan Felber
Looking for more?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Croatian
These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian
specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia,
which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet.
Albin H-3, Put Dikla 47, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 37, albin1@
zd.t-com.hr, www.albin.hr. A well-known restaurant in a
small three star hotel, their fish soup is legendary, and they
use their own amazing home-made olive oil. They also have
premises in Lukoran on the island of Ugljan. QOpen 15:00 -
23:00. (60 - 150kn). LNB
Bruschetta C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-
23) 31 29 15. The name says it all! The emphasis here is
‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar
region on hand, the range of food is varied from several
types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as
different types of pizza and pasta. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.
(60 - 110kn). PJABW
Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45,
info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. A great,
shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse,
with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as
well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to
break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!! QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (45 - 90kn). PAGBC
Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13 (Bastion
hotel), tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Located in the 13th
century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar
centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative
modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade
bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local
gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 -
190kn). PALGBXW
Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45
01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of
inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this
place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive,
top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 160kn). PJAGBX
Malo misto C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel.
(+385-23) 30 18 31, http://malo-misto.com. The “little
place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and
popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and
listen to Croatian music. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 150kn).
PNBX
Marinero F-3, Krešimirova obala 86, tel. (+385-23)
33 36 95. Pizzas and pasta with that Mediterranean feel,
there’s a wide food selection and we recommend the seafood
cuisine - fresh and well prepared. It’s a place to wind down
at the end of a day of sightseeing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 110kn). PLNB
Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78
00/(+385-) 098 46 50 45, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr.
Inside the new apart-hotel, an a’ la carte restaurant serving
Croatian and Dalmatian dishes, all local produce. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn). PAB
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
T Child friendly
G Non-smoking areas
O Casino
R Internet
A Credit cards accepted
S Take away
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking
B Outside seating
6 Animal friendly
Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. (+385-23)
23 57 86, restoran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming
orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant,
green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong
enough to withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in
a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and
a charcoal grill. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(80 - 150kn). PAB
Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, (Hotel Mediteran)
Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 88, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr,
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in
the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 110kn). PAGBXW
Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 27
28. Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising,
apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and
a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada
(beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian
recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine
and vegetables). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 300kn).
PAGBX
Pet Bunara D-3, Trg Pet bunara bb, tel. (+385-23)
22 40 10, info@petbunara.hr, www.petbunara.hr. The
restaurant has an unusual offering of risotto-like dishes
made with barley instead of rice, a nutritious alternative,
and home-made pasta. They also have beef, pork tuna and
turkey steaks, lamb cutlets and classic fish dishes. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180kn). PAGBX
Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. (+385-23) 21 32
75. A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PNGBX
Zadar C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, tel. (+385-
23) 21 21 82. In the Hotel Zagreb building on the Riva, a
simple restaurant with the nicest terrace in town. Dalmatian
music and a pleasant atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(50 - 100kn). NB
Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23)
25 18 59, jadera@zd.htnet.hr, www.jadera.hr. A large,
busy restaurant by St Chrysogonus’ Church with a wide choice
of local and international meat and fish dishes. Perfectly
respectable food at decent prices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(65 - 90kn). PJAGBX
Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. (+385-23)
21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is
a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard
terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

24 Restaurants
Restaurants
25
Breakfast
Croccante Široka ulica 14, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 53,
www.croccante.hr. When the tummy’s rumbling and you
are after a top-notch breakfast to get your day going, hop on
down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants
and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few and
far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests.
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).
Forum C-3, Madievaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40.
Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small
bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go.
We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy
bread rolls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (3 - 40kn). NB
Chinese
Shanghai House H-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33
23 10/(+385-) 095 539 81 58, shanghai.restoran@
gmail.com. The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable
atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine
from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature duck
dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and
for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would like
to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PNGB
Fast food
Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87.
There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger
utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced
meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore
are something like heaven. They’re usually served in a bun
called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat
before serving. Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant
little place to munch decent ćevapi. Q 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00
- 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (19 - 30kn). PNB
Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25
05 81. Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry
pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style
with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab
you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas
too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is
also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention
that here if you like having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
(10 - 35kn). PNGB
Nado D-3, Kovačka 2, tel. (+385-23) 30 55 55. Many
locals swear Nado has the tastiest pizza in the centre of
Zadar. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (33 - 70kn).
Obelix G-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Good warm sandwiches
(popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff.
With late opening hours, it’s a good place to pick up a bite if
you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out
A sweet full stop
The Czechs say that every meal needs a sweet full stop –
just a little something to round everything off nicely. Even
though you’re stuffed to the, er, gills with fish (sorry) and
other goodies, perhaps you can find room for a refreshing
slice of Anastasia’s dream or Rožata, a recipe from
Dubrovnik similar to crčme caramel. Melons and peaches
are at their best at this time of year, as are figs, which
can be steeped in wine and honey, or served dried with
almonds. In restaurants offering ispod peke style food,
you may be able to find pancakes cooked in this way, and
stuffed with sweet curd cheese and raisins.
in town. Located next to Obelix, Terra cafe is inimitable for
its summer parties and fried sardines which the owner gives
to passer bys for free. The program is on Wednesdays from
21:00 - 01:00. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. (8 - 32kn).
Italian
Trattoria Canzona C-3, Stomorice 8, tel. (+385-23) 21
20 81/(+385-) 098 70 68 62. A traditional pizzeria with a
very respectable reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb
restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will
be reassured it’s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PJNGBX
Konoba
Konobas are the best places to experience typical
Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where
fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their
catch for them.
Martinac B-3, Aleksandra Paravije 7, tel. (+385-) 091
579 98 83, konobamartinac@net.hr. An antique interior
and flower-filled courtyard complemented by family cuisine
of a very high standard. We recommend the veal with tuna
and caper sauce. For dessert, try Rožata (a speciality from
Dubrovnik, something like crème caramel). QOpen 10:00 -
24:00. (50 - 110kn). JNB
Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 20
04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural
stone (check out the downstairs section). However, the food
is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality,
and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at
reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine
sold from the barrel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn).
PA6B
Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33
53 49. On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special
menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on
a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal
and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well. QOpen
10:00 - 23:30. (50 - 110kn). PLNGBX
Skoblar D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21
32 36. Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens
to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they
serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods
cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian
and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PJAGBX
Stomorica C-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59
46. Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of
the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and
healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful
place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been
expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New
York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its
good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar
favourite for generations. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn).
PNGBX
Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 809 73
91/(+385-23) 25 03 19, konobatrata@gmail.com. This
konoba is set a sheltered garden with the foundations of a
2nd century Roman temple as its centrepiece. The menu is
centred on ancient Dalmatian recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was
the word for a big net used for communal fishing in old times.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). NGBX
Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 22 26/
(+385-) 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of
our readers wrote in and told us that “if you’re looking for a
restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can’t go
wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we
tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately to a basic repertoire
of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi,
but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed that
it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this simple.
The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure, so the name
(which literally means “I love it here!”) makes perfect sense.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (55 - 400kn).
PAGBX
Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel.
(+385-) 098 40 33 22/(+385-23) 32 50 25. A well-kept
secret - an old stone house with only five or six tables. All the
food and wine is excellent (as are the prices), but those in
the know say it’s a good place in Zadar for octopus cooked
ispod peke style. Bokanjac is just outside Zadar in the
direction of Pag (see a good road map). When you reach the
old village of Stari Bokanjac, you’ll see signs for the konoba.
You have to order what you want to eat a day in advance,
because everything is specially bought and prepared - call in,
or phone. Very special. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00. (65 - 100kn).
PLNGBX
Lamb
The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would
otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend
hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms
the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast
it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave
about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine
and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb
from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are
the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na
ražnju) in and around Zadar.
Sabunjar Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55,
tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Tipped by locals as one of
the best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to
Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets
Merkur and Getro. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn).
PALGBX
Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00,
info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr.
A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal
grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast
lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of
Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(75 - 120kn). ALGBX
Hungry for more?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Out of town
Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.
(+385-23) 38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass
by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd’s old
town in a quiet corner by St Anastasia’s Church, the garden
is the main attraction, green and cool with creeping vines,
with a clay pizza oven and bright with sunshine. Q Open
15:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 45kn).
PNGBX
Griblja Trg Ruševac, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 37
00, info@konoba-griblja.com, www.konoba-griblja.com.
Named after a traditional local farming tool, this two storey
old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully restored
and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely
arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a
block full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great
wine selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (55 - 380kn). PAGB
Kaleta Ul. pape Ivana Pavla II, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23)
39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37. “Kaleta” means “alley”
in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a
warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas.
They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works,
and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try
their Pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with
home made gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (70 - 200kn). PAGB
Kod Guste Sukošan bb, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33
03, augustin.devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kod-guste.hr. A
very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and
reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended).
Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink). QOpen 16:00 -
23:00. (65 - 350kn). PNG
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

26 Restaurants
Restaurants
27
Konoba Branimir Višeslavov trg 2, Nin, tel. (+385-23)
26 48 66/(+385-) 091 587 08 39. A wonderful, haciendastyle
terrace overlooking the tiny white Church of the Holy
Cross in Nin, the foundation stone of Christianity in Croatia. So,
it’s fair to say that it is, ahem, blessed with one of the finest
views in the country. See the stone fireplace inside made from
an altar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (45 - 90kn). AGB
Konoba Grmalj Premuda 10, Premuda Island, tel.
(+385-23) 37 66 65, konoba.grmalj@gmail.com. A little
terrace near the Krijal bay on the western part of the island.
A gorgeous location to try lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish)
ispod peke. People claim that kid goat is a better meat than
lamb as it’s not so greasy and has a more delicate flavour.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). NGBX
Cake & Ice Cream
Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation
of the human race in summer. While you can buy the
usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is
the Croatian brand we’ve known since childhood), don’t
be shy to try the homemade stuff in a slastičarnica.
The water and milk here is fine, so there should be
nothing to upset your tum.
Slastičarnice are temples to all things sweet. You can
also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting
choice of alcohol. Nik-o-Teen beware: often, you can’t
smoke. (These are children-friendly establishments,
after all).
Probably the most popular cake in Croatia is
kremšnita - a thick layer of vanilla cream sandwiched
between two layers of light pastry. It’s not too heavy,
so perfect if you fancy a sweet little something in hot
weather.
Danica C-3, Široka ulica 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 10
16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very
popular because of the good selection of cakes from the
local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Donat B-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29,
info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Many Zadar folks
reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie
dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Good
cake and ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Luce C-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-
23) 25 05 14. A clean and modern place with a super
terrace on the square outside St Chrysogonus’ Church.
You can pick up a sandwich, too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. PNB
Miami Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 1, Biograd. Just at
the beginning of Biograd’s Riva - the town’s waterside
promenade. It’s a great place to linger over one of their
home made cakes or their special Kup Miami sundae
and watch the passers by. Or call in for an ice cream to
accompany your after dinner evening stroll. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Become a fan of Zadar
In Your Pocket on
Konoba Pece Prilaz Drage 2,Vinjerac, tel. (+385-
23) 27 50 69, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. We heartily
recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region,
with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was
hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef.
He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a
personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To
get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the
Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge.
Book in advance. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn).
A6LGBX
Na Tale Stjepana Radića 2, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 11
94/(+385-) 098 44 98 57, frano.valentic@zd.t-com.hr,
www.ljubica.hr. A pleasant restaurant at the beginning
of Pag town’s waterfront promenade, with terrace seating
overlooking the sea or in a shady garden. A wide range of
Mediterranean food, including pizzas, steaks grilled fish and
lamb - the restaurant’s speciality. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 355kn). PAGBX
Tony Kožino II 74a, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32
99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12. Dalmatian specialities and
international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked
on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on
the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff.
On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (25 - 150kn). PALGBX
Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd, tel.
(+385-23) 38 54 82/(+385-) 091 544 90 39, frane.
jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor.hr. The kind and helpful
staff will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly
seafood with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely
spot on Biograd’s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside,
look out for motifs of life here in times gone by. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). AGBX
Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park,
tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, www.aci-club.hr. At the
Marina, a great place to wind down at the end of a day
sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of the
same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable lobster.
Thorougly recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 -
110kn). AGBX
Pizza
Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national
food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is
quick, inexpensive - and yummy.
Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. (+385-23)
33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza.
QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). PALB
Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42
46. Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla,
the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort
area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and
economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings
are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you
get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around
town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four
seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got
onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled
meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(28 - 200kn). PNGB
Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48
48. A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for
superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great
pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and
an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNGBX
Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90.
Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having
been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). PNB
Seafood
Less homey than konobas but good places to try the local
catch in a more upscale ambience.
Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31
44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best
places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with
a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant
is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00
- 23:30. (70 - 450kn). PJAGBX
Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +385-
23) 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and
home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road
west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(75 - 330kn). PALGBX
Niko G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23)
33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotel-niko.
hr. An institution - not only one of the best hotels but also
one of the best restaurants in town. It’s a great place to eat
seafood. We recommend it for a special treat - but it’s not
shockingly expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn).
PALG
Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. A family
restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for
its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge
portions - try the delicious octopus salad or anything seafood.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 350kn).
PALGBX
Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-
23) 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the
water’s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar’s
best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still
their strong point. However, the overall experience, including
the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB
Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23)
33 75 70, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. A
wonderful restaurant in a wonderful hotel in a wonderful Italian
villa, with wonderful food and great surroundings... We need
say little more except “try the tuna carpaccio”. Right by the
Sphinx on the coast road between Puntamika and the centre.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PALGBX
Thai
Pearl of Siam G,J-3, Put Dikla 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 77
13, www.pearlofsiam.com.hr. If spicy or the more exotic
flavours are your cup of tea, then boy, does this place deliver?
The cuisine has Thai food written all over it with a solid array
of course dishes. The ambience is very casual, and the place -
bright, neat and tidy with a little terrace by the pool. QOpen
13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 100kn). PAGBX
Not to be missed
The Gligora Cheese Factory – nestled in the small
village of Kolan, on the island of Pag took out major prizes
at the World Cheese Championships in Birmingham,
2010. Amongst the 2600 cheese from all around the
world, their Paški cheese was proclaimed the best in
three categories: sheep cheese, hard cheese and the
finest new cheese to enter the world market.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

28 Restaurants
CAFéS
29
Go Gourmet
The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you
can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A
staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations,
sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying
ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction,
the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the
queen of the sea.
They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right
on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater,
dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain
and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone,
throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use
plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy
bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market.
A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a
special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if
you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them - leave the first
side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in
olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh
bread, local tomatoes and red wine.
When the fešta is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to
try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good
konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any
number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of
goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a
salad.Dalmatian cuisine consists of a healthy mix of fish,
meat and vegetables with lashings of garlic and olive oil.
That’s why the locals are so enviably tall, slim and clearskinned.
Want some? Here’s the lowdown.
Soup usually starts a meal, or treat yourself to pršut
(cured ham) or Pag cheese. Marinated octopus salad
(salata od hobotnice) makes a nice change or a light
meal in itself in hot weather. Risotto is technically a starter
but is normally enough for a main course. Seafood risotto
is delicious; the more daring may like to try black risotto
made with squid ink.
Main courses usually consist of grilled meat or fish.
(Na žaru = on the grill). High grade white fish (Zubatac,
Brancin or Orada are among the tastiest) is priced by the
kilo in restaurants, and is usually smothered in parsley,
garlic, lemon and olive oil. We don’t offer a translation
because it probably wouldn’t mean much to you. Cheaper
options are mackerel (skuša), tuna (tunjevina), sardines
(srdele) or squid (lignje), which are just as delicious.
The classic accompaniment is blitva (chard, or mangold)
which is normally cooked with potatoes. A beloved insult of
the people in the rest of Croatia towards the Dalmatians is
“Blitvari”, meaning “Chard eaters”. Đuveđ is a vegetable
dish not unlike ratatouille.
A more unusual cooking style is ispod peka (roasted under
an iron bell heaped with glowing ash). Octopus cooked in
this way is truly a local delicacy, while škarpina is a lovely
(and inexpensive) pink fish which can be prepared both
this way, or as Brudet - a fish casserole typical of coastal
home cooking, also excellent made with eel (ugor). A less
attractive fishy friend is grdobina (“monster fish”), which
despite appearances is sublime prepared as medallions
wrapped in pršut.
Seafood fans will be
delighted with mussels
(dagnje) or scampi
cooked na buzaru -
in garlic, herbs, white
wine, and sometimes
tomato. Look out for
oysters (kamenice)
from Mali Ston - they’re
the best.
All meat is usually excellent. Look out for lamb grilled
with herbs, or island lamb cooked on the spit (na ražnju).
Soup made from lamb with vegetables is very special.
Pašticada is a beef dish cooked with dessert wine and
preserved fruit which enjoys a cult-like status in these
parts, and for the real experience should be served with
home-made gnocchi (njoki). You can also find good veal,
especially tasty cooked with sage and pršut.
A couple of weeks of that and we guarantee you shining
eyes and a glossy coat.
Drink
Viniculture has always been an important part of life on the
Adriatic and there are many fine Croatian wines. If you are
eating in a traditional konoba, sometimes they will have
home-made wine sold out of the barrel, cheap and fun to
try. Local whites are usually very drinkable, reds tend to be
on the gentle side. If you’re unlucky and hit a bad example,
just add mineral water.
If you fancy trying posh wine, here are some names to look
out for. But don’t be afraid to ask the waiter to recommend
something - they may have something special in.
Whites: Aenona (Marić estate), Maraština (Vinarija
Benkovac) are both high-quality dry whites.
Reds: Postup and Dingač are the most famous top quality
reds, both from the Pelješac peninsula in the south.
Expensive, but worth it. Plavac is an indigenous grape,
producing a powerful southern reds, the best examples
are from Plenković and Zlatan Plančič, both from the island
of Hvar. Babić from Primošten is a softer style.
After your meal, local firewaters, or rakija, could be
šljivovica (plum), travarica (herb), lozovača (grappa), but
then again there’s nothing you can’t make rakija from! If
they have home-made, try it - it’s light-years better than the
shop-bought stuff. Pelinkovac is a local bitter, Prošek is a
dessert wine. Definitely try maraschino cherry drinks.
As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary
sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s
vital to have a chance to catch up with the day’s gossip
over a macchiato. That means the coffee is usually
good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available
everywhere. A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white
coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too.
Boo to globalisation!
72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those
places where local characters congregate, and here they’re
cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‘72, hence the
name. It’s a friendly, unpretentious place with the cheapest
beer in town at 13kn a bottle. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30.
PBX
Ambiental C-4, M. Pavlinovića 8. Artistic motif decorated
with visions from Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Nice
interior, quiet and cozy. Offers over 100 varieties of tea as
well as sandwiches, croissants, over thirty types of chocolate
beverages and has a nice view. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
PJNB
Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A
super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta
night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian
acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-
23) 30 56 84. A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of
conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome
footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can
pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PGB
Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com, www.
callegro.com. The locals say that this café has the best
coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes
nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but
what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view
at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick
back and watch other people strolling through the famous
street Kalelarga! Q June, September Open 07:30 - 24:00,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 01:30, Sun
08:00 - 01:30. PNGBX
Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing
this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R.
Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty
drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and
outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PGBX
Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is
built on the ruins of Saint Catherine’s Church. That may
explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas,
different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. PJNB
Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 37. A
fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed
by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous
symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB
Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most
luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee
and watching the sun go down. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
PNGB
Kampo A/B-3, Trg 3 bunara bb. For morning coffee...
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. GBX
Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21. Named after
what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian
ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once
a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat.
Still, it’s a good place to sit on the waterfront and enjoy
coffee and cake, or even a game of pool. QOpen 06:30 -
23:00. PNB
Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The
best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the
interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want to sit
inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful
square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable stop on
the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made
by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A
cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea
captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly
character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX
Moto cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel.
(+385-23) 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the
northern part of town. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs
out, and bikes hang within to make the point absolutely clear.
QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PGBX
Passage M-5, Bartola Kašića 1. On the corner of a red
brick building known by the locals as the “peglica” (little
iron) because of its unusual triangular shape. On the Jazine
bay at the beginning of the Old Town peninsula. QOpen
06:30 - 22:00. PNB
Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means
everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or
simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts
enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and
the tower of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern
and stylish. QOpen 06:30 - 01:30. PGBXW
Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52
75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight
during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the
beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages
a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the
sunset. Nice coffee mugs too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. PNB
Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23)
25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near
the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX
VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23)
30 19 69. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay
VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice
cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful
view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
03:00. BXW
Not to be missed
Maraschino – a bittersweet liqueur that was served at
the royal courts of the English Queen Victoria
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

30 Nightlife
Nightlife
31
On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on
benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo)
are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither
sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places
you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people.
While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your
evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik,
Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch
the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the
best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.
Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be
disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan
lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture
is. There are a handful of clubs which offer some decent
nights, and a wide choice of bars to suit your tastes.
Automat gambling
Monaco Millions N-5, F. Tuđmana 14. The extreme joy
that is handing money over to establishments more than
willing to make the experience as easy as possible for you.
Warning: mom is onto your sneaking-spare-change-from-herwallet
move by the way is waiting to discuss what should be
done about it with father when he comes home. You’re wise
to be on high alert. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00.
Armin Van Buuren
Clubs
Zadar doesn’t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners
tend to try to cater for everyone, offering different kinds
of music on different nights. At the time of going to press,
in true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue
what would be happening when this summer, so keep
an eye out for flyers and posters. Here’s a general idea
of what to expect. Apart from that, the good news is the
crowd is always very mixed, and the appalling Europop you
find in so many resorts is pretty much absent.
City Club Forum M-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-)
091 324 07 89, forum.city.club@gmail.com. A smallish
coliseum-shaped space with three bars an atmosphere of
full-on hedonism to recall the fall of Rome. The music policy
is flexible, but you can expect to find commercial house and
r’n’b. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00.
The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel.
(+385-23) 25 06 31, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.
watchthegardengrow.eu. Opened by two members of Brit
reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city
walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia.
Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a
perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game
of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub,
latin, breaks and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 -
01:30. JEBW
Cocktail bars
Barbara bar F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel.
(+385-23) 20 61 00. Done out in classic lounge bar style,
all wicker and white cushions, the Barbara Bar is a classy and
comfortable spot to wind down after a hard day’s sunbathing
or yachting on Borik. It’s inside the Funimation hotel in the
Falkenstiener Borik hotel complex. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PAGBX
Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo. This brightlycoloured
bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of
Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively
place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a
few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. QOpen
08:00 - 04:00. B
Hangin’ out
Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21
13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy
couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00
- 01:00. B
Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38
21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com,
www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service
center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history,
culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure
offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s
3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You
can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts
multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food
or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres
in Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar
Tourist Board put their heads together so you can find all the
tourist information you need. From accommodation to tours,
Internet access and exchange facilities you will find them all
at Arsenal. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.
PTJAEBKW
Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend to
congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed
Sun. PBX
Brazil D-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel.
(+385-) 091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace
and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions.
Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio,
meaning it registers above average on the music taste-ometer
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNB
Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after
dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all
crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B
Corso C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 182
77 41. Super-modern inside and with a pleasant terrace on
the Riva, we hear that they are spinning great DJ parties at
the weekends these days. The music policy is on the less
annoying side of the dance spectrum. QOpen 08:00 -
01:30. PNGB
Dolce Vita C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana@
net.hr. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce
vita, i.e. the trendy crowd. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 -
01:30. PJNBX
Gagica G-4, A.G. Matoša 8, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 20,
agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica’s history goes back to
the 60’s, and it has been one of Zadar’s favourite bars ever
since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as
it’s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself.
Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00
- 03:00. NGBX
Kult C-3, Stomorica 6. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little
park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.
QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PJBX
LLoyd B-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08
51. One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older
crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the
steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
PNGBX
Lotus C-4, Stomorica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe,
unless you consider young people straining desperately
to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music
confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00
- 01:00. B
Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-
23) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out
in the morning or afternoon and it’s a café/restaurant, head
on down late evening and it transforms into a night club.
With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every
excuse to sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00.
PAGB
Q Bar B-2, Liburnska obala 6. A good old thirst needs a
good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs
located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights
are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly
timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of
the port and marina! QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PGBX
Rio C-4, Putevac 5, ivan.antisin@zd.t-com.hr. Right by In
Time, pretty relaxed and playing Latino and house. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. PB
Sea organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Riva. Read all about
Zadar’s sea organ - the only one in the world - in “What to see”,
then head, equipped with your insider knowledge, to impress
the chaps or chapesses that gather there by evening. It’s a
nice place to lounge whilst listening to the sounds produced
by the waves, and it’s a special experience at sunset.
Shine C-4, M. Pavlinovića 16, tel. (+385-) 091 399 96
01, info@barshine.hr, www.barshine.hr. Amongst the
many hotspots, clubs and bars in Zadar, Shine has a certain
glow about it. Positioned along the Riva, you can drop in to
this bar for some added fun whilst choosing from the riveting
cocktails up for grabs QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PB
The Factory bar D-3, Poljana Pavla Pavlovića bb, tel.
(+385-) 095 914 56 20, www.factorybar.hr. It is as if the
interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex and the
City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor have
wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees for
a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing. QOpen
08:00 - 01:30. PNBX
Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. On
Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of
the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at
Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing
shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the
attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite. QOpen
07:00 - 01:30. PNBX
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

32 Nightlife
What to see
33
Yachting Bar G-5, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel.
(+385-) 091 452 34 52. A super, modern bar by the Borik
marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live
music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail
into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling
peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts
and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate
hunger satisfaction. QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PNBW
Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few
seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that
gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge
and drum’n’bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00.
PNBX
Out of town
Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-
53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius.
hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. If you’re looking for a true beach
party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just
outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven
of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best
club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat
and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime),
and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool
off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00. BKC
Barbarella’s Petrčane, Punta Radman, info@
thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu.
The Garden club people revive this legendary club space on
a pine covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Super sundown
cocktails, and Saturday parties with future jazz scene names.
Open: Terrace 10:00 - 01:30; Coctail bar 12:00 - 01:30 and
Night club 24:00 - 06:00. Q PAB
Beach Bar Kalypso Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island.
A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badminton), games
and entertainment for young and old, fast food, cocktails and
internet access. The late bar is pumping ‘til who knows - and
who cares - when! Open ‘til late QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. B
Beach Bar Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island,
tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.
papaya.com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring
you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant
areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming
pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music
and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident
DJs and international guests playing varied music styles. Q
Open 10:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. BC
Carpy More Kralja Tvrtka 10, Biograd, tel. (+385-
23) 38 61 19. In this beautifully renovated old building in
Biograd’s old town, a Dalmatian pub has opened, all stone
walls and rough-hewn wooden furniture. It’s an airy space with
comfortable seating and cosy antique details. Call to reserve
a table. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. AGB
www.inyourpocket.com
SHM
Lavender Bed Bar Hotel Adriatic, Tina Ujevića 7,
Biograd, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.
com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the
Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxing
ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music.
As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you
lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. AB
Lounge Bar Miramare Vrulja 10, Preko, tel. (+385-)
091 530 48 12, eventi@miramare-lounge.com, www.
miramare-lounge.com. You are at the bar, you order your
drink, and do a 180 degree turn as the sea breeze gently
blows. This cool, hip lounge bar is located on the Preko
waterfront on the island of Ugljan. Catch a 20 minute ferry
form Zadar which takes you to Preko, ferries leave every 30
minutes. Cocktails, jazz and soul music sessions are a hit and
the bar is perfectly set up for those outdoor summer nights.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. NBJE
Saturnus Zaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28
02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. A huge and popular
nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the
apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows
at weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00.
PLN
Vanga Stara Riva bb, Pag Town, Pag Island, tel. (+385-
23) 61 11 94, marija.valentic@zd.htnet.hr, www.ljubica.
hr. A disco club named after an old local ferry, it’s open nonstop
for fun, including karaoke and foam parties. QOpen
16:00 - 03:00. B
Pubs
Kantun C-4, Stomorica 5. Kantun (the Dalmatian for
“corner”) is situated on a crossroads (called Kantun) that is a
hub for the hep cats of Zadar. The only place with a simple pub
feel and a music policy that proudly announces itself: Raaawk!
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PBX
Pop your cherry
One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local
Maraschino cherries – a particularly aromatic variety, a
little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when
sugared up to the max.
As we all know, it’s the quiet ones you have to watch, and,
like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal
clear and syrupy) was first made by 16 th Century monks, who
called it “sun dew”. Apparently the fruits and young leaves
of the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness
of sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would
be imbued with positive effects.
The city’s Maraska factory is the yellow building on the
mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing
alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well
as other drinks, for years. It’s something which the locals
are rightly proud of.
Alright, so having your city razed to the ground every few
hundred years might have its drawbacks - but look on the
bright side! The legacy of constant rebuilding has given
Zadar a uniquely rich architecture, and there can be few
places on Earth with such diverse influences crammed
into one small area.
Essential Zadar
City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the
largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first
Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone
inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was
the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To
one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people
were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away
and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum
also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers
and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade
where shops and workshops once stood. The site was
only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently
assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely
cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most
beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are
still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch
or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine
the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples
and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the
very altars you can see on this spot.
City Forum, Stjepan Felber
City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had
several entrances knocked through them at more confident
points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for
good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within
the walls and the sea outside them.
The Venetians built
the Land Gate - then
the main entrance into
the city - on the little
Foša harbour in 1543.
It’s considered one of
the finest monuments
of the Venetian rule in
Dalmatia, and has the
form of a triumphal
arch with a central
passage for wheeled
t r a ff i c , a n d t w o
smaller side arches
fo r p e d e s t r i a n s .
It’s decorated with
motifs such as St
Chrysogonus (Zadar’s
main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the
coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area
had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.
Between the ferryport and market is the Harbour Gate (also
known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to
the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the
victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near
the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge
Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago,
and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further
west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate,
named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square
with the harbour area.
City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by
the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once
was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.
With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves
as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the
international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and
the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed.
Admission 5 - 10kn.
City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.
Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance
style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone
barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions).
The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the
National Museum, one of the most important collections in the
country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national
costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural,
fishing and household objects. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 5 -10kn.
Not to be missed
Saint Donatus Church (9th century AD)
City tours
Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit
the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red
rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the
Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the
footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat
here for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but
these Dalmatians are a hardy lot.Seriously, this is a
famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart
from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine
bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only
5kn.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

34 What to see
What to see
35
City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest
city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls
allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of
its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured
by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications
than there are now, but what are left are put to good use,
with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see
below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells
Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used
as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the
Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful
vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people
crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there
is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.
Cultural Heritage
St Donatus’ Church, Stjepan Felber
Research Library and Historical Archive Zadar’s
Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution
of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb.
It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor
Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia
on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an
attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks.
It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural
and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar
was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia,
under many colonial powers. The documentation kept
here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s
church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s
legal and political past.
St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije)
B-3, Trg svete Stošije. An attractive Romanesque cathedral
- the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th
centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is
separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two
attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery
of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing
seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the
Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative
friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is
worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone
ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved
choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.
St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana
pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely
harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-
Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar
and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular
shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was
founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of
the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years
later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no
longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics
and is used as the concert venue for the annual International
Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The
Musical Evenings in St Donatus’”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed December - April Admission 12 -15kn.
The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a
place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When
people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant
promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called
Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until
the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by
an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at
bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of
Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding
the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of
fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The
Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is
the site of the stunning University building, and is a great
place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip
by day.
Not to be missed
The Zadar sunset
The Riva, Stjepan Felber
Statue of Petar Zoranić
On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with
rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of
the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of
a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding
mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme
in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral
romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at
that time - a time when the city was under siege by the
Turks, but art and culture prospered within.
Churches
When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking
that all the people of Zadar have done through the
centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a
good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing,
and how rich that life has been. Here are the main
highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass
- each has its own timetable. All churches expect you to
cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise
eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused
admittance.
Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od
“Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green
park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the
little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s
best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of
Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older
churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady
of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent
Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the
City of Zadar ).
Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva
sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila
Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian
church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb
on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in
the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the
five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church
architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the
central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.
St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva
sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića
Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora
and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the
simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th
century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th
centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church
of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both
contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric
interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.
St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)
C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved
little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally
belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood
nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are
delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three
semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery.
The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of
frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were
spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s
four patron saints were erected on the altar.
St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4,
Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of
Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in
1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual
central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and
two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the
University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy
of Arts and Sciences.
Not to be missed
Saint Mary’s Church Campanile from 1105
Zadar’s Protection Squad
Zadar has four patron saints. If that seems a bit excessive,
read the History section, you’ll soon understand why.
Here’s the gang:
St Simeon - Sveti Šimun
Saint Simeon (or Simon) is said to have been present at
the birth of Jesus, which is probably why women wishing
to bear a son appeal to him. This also explains why he is
the most popular patron saint: around here, the birth of
a son occasions much quaffing of rakija and Tarzan-like
chest-beating. The saint’s body is kept in an amazing
casket which is opened every year on October 8 (see
Essential Zadar).
St Chrysogonus - Sveti Krševan
St Chrysogonus (or Grisogono in Italian) is the main patron
saint of the city: the City of Zadar Day celebrations are
always held on St Chrysogonus’ day (November 24).
You can see him riding a horse on Zadar’s coat of arms
and flag. He was persecuted and beheaded by Roman
Emperor Diocletian (who built the palace at Split).
St Anastasia - Sveta Stošija
St Anastasia was also martyred under Diocletian, and is
also said to have been present at the birth of Christ. She
cared for persecuted Christians, and unfortunately met
the same fate herself - she was tortured and beheaded.
Her remains now lie in a marble reliquary in the Cathedral,
which is dedicated to her.
St Zoilo - (no translation available)
The least well-known of Zadar’s keepers, St Zoilo
rescued St Chrysogonus’ body when it was washed
up on the shore, and buried it at his home in Venice.
Although Chrysogonus had been beheaded, his body was
miraculously whole. For this and other kind acts, St Zoilo’s
relics were brought to Zadar after his death.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

36 What to see
What to see
37
Asseria
At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the
remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long.
Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot
on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian
tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the
eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied
these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with
a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an
end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across
the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled.
The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th
century. You can also see remains from the days when
this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin
(Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth
of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon
named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming
and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine
example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century
Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine
monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a
beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.
St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3,
Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had
an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to
a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in
Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805,
he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into
a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has
recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex
is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed
Puppet Theatre.
St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city’s
Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and
sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands
just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing
extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the
moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of
the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons
spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.
St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery
(Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)
A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68.
Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic
church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and
Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks.
The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace
treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of
Igor Neuhausler
attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the
Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth
seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral
Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful
Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here
for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011,
during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely
covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th
centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00.
Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka
ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th
century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached
through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small
and simple, but architecturally rich.
St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice
Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and
belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church
was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the
Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its
rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of
early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings
contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious
Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a
beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s
interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures,
the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for
free. Bless!
St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3,
Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and
Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage
of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief
on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and
St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and
added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th
century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint
Michael on the high altar.
St Nediljice’s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3.
An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is
displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see
The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).
St Nicholas’s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3.
The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque
styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close
to St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque belltower lie in
the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from
the ravages of history - Napoleon’s armies converted it
into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged
the exterior.
St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg
Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. East of Narodni
trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint
of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone
alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the
terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison
with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean
aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary
of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver
Casket of St Simeon ).
St Thomas’s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The
remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the
corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića
Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school,
rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now
forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of
the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.
Landmarks
City Market (Pijaca) C-2, Pod Bedemom bb. In most
Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and
Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since
the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to
WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of
town. Some around the edge of the square are only just
being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find
mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and
more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old
ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese
- usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The
indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish
market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud
locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side
is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac,
great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap
snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.
Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3, Trg 5 bunara.
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water
cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish
threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion,
and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as
the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.
Five Wells Square, Stjepan Felber
Greeting to the Sun A-3. Witness this unique chance to
see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by
the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the
11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the
Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible,
musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert
on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made
significant contributions.
The First Croatian University
Zadar - the First Croatian University By St
Dominic’s church stands an attractive old white stone
building, part of the Dominican monastery complex, with
a plaque proclaiming its pride in being the first site of a
University on Croatian soil. Established in 1396 by the
Dominican monks, this puts Zadar up there with famous
seats of learning such as Cambridge and Barcelona
(1303), Heidelberg (1385), Charles University Prague
(1348), (but not quite so old as Padova (1222) and Paris
(1229). Zadar’s University focuses on humanities, and
one can’t help envying those students: one look at the
yellow Faculty on the Riva shows you that there are worse
places to be than by the sea…
Statue of Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow
staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none
other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in
natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He
was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official.
Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the
Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does
that shell contain?
Sea organ, Stjepan Felber
The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet
bunara. A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by
the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks.
It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city
captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.
The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko
groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly
thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to
be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on
display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof
of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s
really not all that morbid.
The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja
Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something
absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by
the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy
the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new
pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple,
elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect
for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with
openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea
pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity
of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the
ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can
bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or
enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely
popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new
part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić,
and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter
engineered the organ itself.
Museums
Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3,
Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, arheoloskimuzej-zadar@zd.htnet.hr,
www.amzd.hr. On the Forum
square is the low, modern building of the Archeological
Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from
Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements.
For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to
the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers
decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

38 What to see
What to see
39
Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor
covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians
(1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th
century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local
necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung
parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd
century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a
reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a
smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity
in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine
period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths.
The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries)
contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and
stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 12 - 15kn.
National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2,
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51.
The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban
development of Zadar from the Baroque to the first half of the
19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture
and (particularly recommended) early photography. There are
also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific
section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace
(see Palaces). The Zadar National Museum consists of the
Zadar City Museum, the Natural Science Department and the
Ethnological Department. Tickets are purchased seperately
for each department. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 15kn.
The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog
stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-
23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.
hr. The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions.
It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has
some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The
museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman
glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and
vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia.
Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies
to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look
out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in
which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the
replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest
souvenir-stops in the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Open July -
October Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.
Legend of Saint Anastasia
Under the reign of Emperor Diocletian at around the
4th century AD, Christians were persecuted in great
numbers and a young girl by the name of Anastasia was
secretly raised in the holy faith. Of noble descent, she
was forced into an arranged marriage to a Roman pagan
named Publius and was soon after put under house
arrest because she wanted to remain a virgin - a sign of
her piety and faith. Anastasia was in a loveless marriage
that so many women had to endure in those days. After
her husband’s death, she went to Aquileia accompanying
Saint Chrysogonus where she testified to his martyrdom.
According to one of numerous legends, she was tortured
during the reign of Emperor Diocletian and was burned
at the stake. Her relics were moved to Constantinople in
the 5th century and Zadar bishop Donatus received them
as a gift from the emperor Nicephor I as a sign of peace
between Byzantine and Zadar. Her remains were moved
to Zadar and were placed in a stone sarcophagus in Saint
Peter’s Church which has from then on been called the
Church of Saint Anastasia.
Palaces
Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3.
Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy
to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central
Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building
adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department
of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and fauna, including
sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from all over the
world. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn).
Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime
Budinića. Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the
Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date
back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example
of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction
after damage in the 1990s war.
Knight’s Palace
Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i
Petrizio) D/C -3. Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive
Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance
palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular
the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th
and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant
bombardment by enemies.
Palace Grisogono (Palača Grisogono) D-3. Another
palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive
Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally
consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the
16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination
of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is
well worth a look.
Parks
Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice
Jelene-Madijevka) D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park is not
the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named
after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the
Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian
commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a
passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was
the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top
of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is
eternally grateful for.
Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora)
E-3. Named since WWII after one of the most famous
Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s
biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate.
It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin
Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).
Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of
Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused
to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a
richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an
elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years
after it was completed, and the park was named after him
- against his wishes.
Religious collection
Silver and Gold of the
City of Zadar (Zlato i
srebro Zadra) B-3, Trg
opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-
23) 25 04 96/(+385-23)
25 48 20. If you come to
Zadar you must see the
Forum and St Donatus. If
you only see one other thing,
make it the Silver and Gold
of Zadar. It’s housed in the
Benedictine convent of St
Mary’s, where it has been
guarded by nuns since the
end of the Second World
War. It forms the Permanent
Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural
repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods
of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and
silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the
city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between
the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries
for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and
heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven
with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in
intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed
to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the
Photo Workshop in Sestrunj
ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former
chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.
Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00.
Admission 15 - 20kn.
Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv.
Šime) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17
05. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket
on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze
angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector
of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of
Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest
examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and
out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and
the city’s history.
Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St
Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm,
and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the
body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they
would find something interesting in his documents. They found
an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and
asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet
knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions
appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar
ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily
and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day,
October the 8th. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00.
The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis’ Monastery
(Riznica samostana sv. Frane) Trg sv. Frane 1, tel.
(+385-23) 25 04 68. The monastery has a rich collection
of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century
painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych
from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic
painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula,
documents, liturgical vessels and more. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

40 Mail & Phones
Getting around
41
Not to be missed
Roman Forum (1st century AD)
Making the call
Express mail
City Ex N - 4, Put murvice 26 a, tel. (+385-23) 30 90 99,
zadar@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
DHL E-1, Postrojbi specijalne policije 12, tel. (+385-23)
22 44 44/(+385-) 098 47 30 32, www.dhl.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Internet places
Acme B-3, Nikole Matafara 2a, tel. (+385-23) 25 07
08, klub@zadarsnova.hr. A big internet centre combined
with a gallery space. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 10kn / 30min,
15kn / 1h.
Marina Dalmacija Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete
Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00,
www.marinadalmacija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. W
Vip Internet caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb,
tel. (+385-) 091 77 00. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00, Sun
08:00 - 06:00.
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course):
Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s sixor
seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver
to your ear.
National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023 if you’re
calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber’s
number.
Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code),
the appropriate country code, a city or area code if
applicable and the subscriber’s number.
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international
access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code
(dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.
Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits
and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial
the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For
an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your
international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the
0, and then dial the remaining digits.
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Zadar is typical to most everywhere
in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that
have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique
however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions
of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the
most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and
cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to
warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central
European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091),
T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can
be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in
news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.
They all have numerous selling points throughout the city
if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.
T-Centar M-5, Polačišće 2, Relja, tel. (+385-) 0800
90 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Tele 2 D-3, Andrije Medulića 2, tel. (+385-23) 21
38 09, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat
08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
VIP Centar E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6b, tel.
(+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure
they’re right value for what you are sending and where.
Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These
are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around
town.
Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel.
(+385-23) 31 68 41. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Post office B-3, Š.Kožičića Benje 1, tel. (+385-23) 25
05 06. June, September Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat
07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Post office L-4, J.J.Strossmayera 8, tel. (+385-23)
23 52 44. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
City codes
Zagreb 01
Split 021
Šibenik 022
Zadar 023
Dubrovnik 020
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10 kn
Abroad 7,10 kn
Postcrads Croatia 1,60 kn
Abroad 3,10 kn
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

42 Getting around
Getting around
43
Public transport
City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the
Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all
surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket
office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00
- 14:00, Saturdays 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a
ticket valid for two journeys for 13kn. Alternatively, buy
tickets inside the bus (8kn for one trip).
Liburnija, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-23) 060 30 53 05.
Taxi
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to
transport your person, for which privilege an equally varied
array of prices apply, ranging from 19kn to 40kn for a 5km
trip. Your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before
entering the taxi.
The train station is right next to the bus station. Zadar is
not particularly well connected with other Croatian cities by
rail. There are two direct trains to Zagreb a day. As for train
services to Split - don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus.
Ticket prices are similar to those of buses. The ticket office
is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the
trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German
pages and a search facility. For international services, it
connects you to the Deutsche Bahn website.
Buses
Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel.
(+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.
liburnija-zadar.hr. The bus station is on the crossroads
just east of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and
Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including
exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the
cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore
the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian
destinations are served, as well as a growing number of
foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general
ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.
Car Rental
AMC B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25
43 01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, zdd@amcrentacar.
hr, www.amcrentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34
84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun
08:00 - 12:00. A
Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/
(+385-) 091 570 22 31, aviazadar@yahoo.com, www.
avia-rentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84
02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare),
tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@
subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-)
091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A
Lulić Ulica 159. brigade 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/
(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Also
at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 08:00 - 22:00. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Not to be missed
The Sea Organ - also called the orchestra of nature
with stone steps, unique polyethylene tubes as well
as channels and chambers which combine to make
a distinctive instrument that produces eternal organ
sounds based on the power and direction of waves.
Modul Auto R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-23) 34 36
30/(+385-) 091 222 26 92, modul-auto@zd.t-com.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-
23) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com.
hr. Rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A
Terra G - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94/
(+385-23) 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr,
www.terratravel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A
Airport
Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,
tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.
zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s small but modern airport is in
Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has
domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European
destinations. Charter flights also in summer. Liburnija runs
buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the
quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus
lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and
one-way tickets cost 25kn.
Airline offices
Croatia Airlines Zadar Airport, Zemunik Donji, tel.
(+385-23) 25 01 01, zadap@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Parking
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact
that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There
are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking
spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry
terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the
mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of
the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car
parks. Parking in Zadar every day from 1 Jul to 31 Aug,
08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone
1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone
4 - 2 kn/h. From 1 Sept to 30 Jun charges are as follows:
Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and
Zone 4 - 2 kn/h; charges are applied every day except
Sundays and bank holidays.
Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first
country where you can pay for parking by text message!
Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a
blue or white field. Simply send the registration number
of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special
characters) to 8231 ( zone 1), 8232 ( zone 2), 8233 (zone
3), 8234 (zone 4), 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is
confirmed when you get a message back from them.
Ferries
Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger
boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding
islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well
worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable.
Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying
the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office.
These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated.
Catamarans do not take cars on board.
Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48
00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen
and Fri Open 07:00 - 22:00.
Miatours B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana b.b., tel. (+385-23)
25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www.
miatours.hr. NLP agent. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu
08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A
Trains
Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1,
Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55. National
info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr
Petrol stations
Euro Petrol Petrčane Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23)
36 44 34. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
INA - Put Murvice west O-1, Zagrebačka 35,
tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 28, www.ina.hr. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
INA - Voštarnica Kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-)
091 497 13 29, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.
A
Not to be missed
The City Gate (The Land Gate) – a masterpiece of the
late renaissance period
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

44 Getting around
SPORT
45
Beaches
Harbourmasters’ office
Lučka kapetanija K-5/B-2, Liburnska obala 8, tel.
(+385-23) 25 48 88, milivoj.maricic@pomorstvo.hr.
Rent a bike
Calimero M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel.
(+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 098 189 55 28, www.
calimero-sport.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. A
Eurobike M/N-5, Franje Tuđmana 14, tel. (+385-23)
24 12 43. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Bus lines
In the sweltering heat of the Mediterranean summer the
last thing that tourists need is to contemplate on how to
get from A to B. Rest assured dear visitors as you can
wipe the sweat of your brows as you’ll be pleased to
know that Zadar has excellent connections to the rest
of Croatia. All the major destinations are covered and if
you do have any inquiries, simply check directly at the
Zadar Bus Station or phone 060 30 53 05.
Zadar is well connected to Zagreb with daily lines. For
those wishing to travel closer to the Zadar surroundings
there is a bus line for Benkovac at 07:00 and 17:45.
Island hoppers who choose Vir as a destination won’t
miss out as there is a bus line that comes from Zagreb
and leaves Zadar at 19:30. In addition, there is also a
line Čakovec-Vir that runs from May 31 until August 31
which stops in Zadar at 10:45 and continues through
to Vir.
The bus line Zagreb-Murter stops in Zadar and leaves
for Murter at 07:30. If you’ve done your research you’ll
know that Novalja is one of the hit party destinations
Travel agencies
Kompas B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 9, tel. (+385-23)
25 43 04/(+385-23) 25 43 06, zadar@kompas.t-com.
hr, www.kompas-travel.com. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94/
(+385-23) 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr,
www.terratravel.hr. Rafting, bungee jumping... QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. A
TUI Generalturist E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 1, tel.
(+385-23) 31 89 97, pzadar@generalturist.com, www.
generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Street smart
Street ulica Square trg
Road cesta Walk šetalište
Passage prolaz Way put
City centre centar Station stanica
and therefore there is a bus that travels daily at 14:00
and 20:00. Take note as an additional line to Novalja is
scheduled from June 1 until September 30 with a bus
that departs at 17:00.
With the new state of the art freeways built, the
Zagreb-Split bus line is definitely the best way to travel
time-wise. In saying that, there are also buses available
for those who wish to take the lovely coastal route along
the sea. As a bonus, this Zagreb-Split line does stop in
Zadar.
If you’re travelling south to Dubrovnik, there is a line
from Trieste that arrives to Zadar at 00:55 and then
proceeds further down.
To the north of the country there are bus lines for the
city of Rijeka. For the Istrian peninsula and the city of
Pula the bus lines from Zadar depart at 08:00, 12:00
and 23:30.
For the most eastern part of Croatia there is a bus line
to Osijek which leaves Zadar at 23:00.
If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can
head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the
Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional
town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town.
Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble
beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would
only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that
have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach
does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants,
and is a good place to hang out, day or night. Behind
Taverna Kolovare are public toilets and you can play table
tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing
spots all the way to the headland in the east.
Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will
be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good
for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while
the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new
aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty
of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as
well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further
west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has
plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined
area of villas.
If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either
the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy
bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly
good for active types and families with children, as the
holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going
on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those
interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient
settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby.
But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands.
Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops
there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks
you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it
gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their
own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours!
And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can
find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself
au naturel, undisturbed.
Biking
Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and
biking even in high
summer. The Ravni
Kotari plains in the
hinterland offer gentle
terrain for a spot of
touring. One of the
oldest cycling routes
is between Zadar and
Benkovac, where you
can experience local
Tempo della signore
‘...back in the old days on the Croatian coast, the sunset
used to be called tempo della signore; it was believed that
the sun’s rays which beamed down at an angle made girls
look all the more beautiful, adding to their complexion and
tan...’’ Milorad Stojević: Tempo della signore
hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient
ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero
offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and
higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands
of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed
tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes
cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing tour
allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches
and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more
challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate
cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty
to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular
scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park.
See “Zadar County” for more info on all of these, or call
into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B.
Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr.
Calimero bike shop M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10, www.calimero-sport.hr.
Bikes for sale and rent, servis. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Eurobike L-5, Obala kneza Branimira 6c, tel. (+385-23)
24 12 43. Bike purchase, service and rental, plus other
sports equipment, including punchbags for when those family
holidays are just getting too much. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Climbing
The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for
climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna
and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece
of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth
rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking
the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There is a
40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days to
travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons,
creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you
can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has
a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the
greatest number of climbers. One of the most beautiful
mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a
great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain
bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide
you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for
excellent pictures, information and advice.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

46 SPORT
SPORT
47
Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad
- PaklenicaPaklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/
(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.
paklenica.hr. Q 1-day ticket 20 - 40kn, 3-day ticket 80kn,
5-day ticket 120kn.
Fishing
Lake Vransko is well-stocked and offers peaceful
surroundings for fisher-persons. To fish anywhere, you
need a licence - costing from 70kn per day. Call into your
local tourist office - take some ID with you.
Horse riding
Take in the scenery while someone else does the hard
work.
Konjički centar Libertas Zaton Holliday Resort, Nin,
tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas.
hr, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Q May - Septemeber
Open 07:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00.
Konjički klub Epona N/O-1, Hrvatskog sabora 1, tel.
(+385-) 099 673 71 06. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00.
Marinas
ACI Šimuni Kolan, Pag Island, tel. (+385-23) 69 74
57, m.simuni@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 200 berths,
60 places on land, a 15t crane and slipway for vessels up
to 8m. QReception Open 08:00 - 20:00, June - August 31
Open 07:30 - 21:30.
Benjamin Marina Iž Island - Veli Iž bb, tel. (+385-23)
27 70 06/(+385-) 091 576 53 11, sinisakulisic@gmail.
com. A small marina on peaceful Iž island, in a lovely little
bay and with a good restaurant. Q Reception Open 07:30
- 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00.
Marina Biograd Bukovačka bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-
23) 38 61 22, marina.biograd@zd.t-com.hr. Biograd’s
new dry marina is the place to keep your baby under wraps
over winter. 24 hour surveillance and maintenance services.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Marina Borik G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, tel. (+385-
23) 33 30 36, info@marinaborik.hr, www.marinaborik.hr.
Facilities include a 20 ton travel lift, boat care services, 50
land storage spaces. Right by the Borik hotel complex with
great accommodation, an aquapark and bars, restaurants
and entertainments close by. Q Open 07:30 - 20:00, Mon
07:30 - 14:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Marina Dalmacija G-5, Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete
Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00,
info@marinadalmacija.hr, www.marinadalmacija.hr. A
beautifully laid out Blue Flag marina near a beach resort with
a nice old centre just a few kilometres south of Zadar. Don’t
miss ancient Konoba Kaleta - see “Where to eat”. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00.
Marina Kornati Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd,
tel. (+385-23) 38 38 00, info@marinakornati.com,
www.marinakornati.com. A full service marina close to
the Kornati National Park, in the lively resort of Biograd.
The marina is backed by three hotels, the Adriatic, Ilirija
and Kornati, owned by the same company as the marina.
See “Where to stay” under “Out of town”. Charter available.
QOpen 07:30 - 21:00.
Marina Zadar B-1, Ivana Meštrovića 2, tel. (+385-23)
33 27 00/(+385-23) 20 48 62, marina@tankerkomerc.
hr, www.tankerkomerc.hr. This is the marina closest
to the old centre of Zadar. 300 sea and 200 dry berths, a
restaurant with a great sunset view and secure parking.
Charter available. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. W
Rafting
In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue
river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls
and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and
refreshing ride.
Bora Tours F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23)
33 77 60, info@boratours.net. They also organise rafting,
kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 17:00 - 20:00. A
Sailing
There’s no better way to spend your holiday. Why? 1. You
can go faster. 2. You can get to paradise beaches where
nobody else goes. 3. The cool sea breeze. 4. It’s great.
Need we say more?
Euromarine Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel.
(+385-23) 38 48 55, biograd@euromarine.hr, www.
euromarine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 33
10 76/(+385-23) 33 78 30, office@uskok.biz.hr, www.
uskok.biz.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
www.inyourpocket.com
Yacht Club Biograd Kralja Petra Svačića 17, tel.
(+385-23) 38 53 35, info@yc-biograd.com, www.ycbiograd.com.
Scuba diving
“Under the seeea... under the seeea... there’ll be no
accusations, just friendly crustaceans...” Homer Simpson.
Homer knew what he was talking about, it’s another
world down there, where you can forget your troubles. The
Adriatic, one of the cleanest seas in Europe, is perfect for
learning to dive and getting acquainted with the watery
underworld. Here’s where you can do it.
Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-
23) 38 54 35/(+385-) 098 193 53 30, 099 353 47
83, info@albamaris.hr, www.albamaris.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00.
Scuba Adriatic M-3, Zaton Holiday Resort, tel.
(+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, info@
scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.com. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Zadar Sub N-2, Dubrovačka 20a, tel. (+385-23) 21
48 48/(+385-) 099 530 04 78, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr,
www.zadarsub.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. A
Zlatna luka Marina Dalmacija, Sukošan, tel. (+385-)
091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.divingzlatnaluka.net.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. N
Not to be missed
This year’s Croatian UNESCO nomination for the World
Heritage List is the sacral monument on the ruins of the
Roman Forum in Zadar.
Tennis
Tennis club Zadar I-3/4, Sutomiška ulica 1 (uvala
Draženica), tel. (+385-23) 33 20 22. QOpen 08:00 -
23:00. 45kn / per hour.
Windsurfing
Although the waters around Zadar are rather calm for
adrenaline surfing, there are places where you can hone
your skills, or learn the basics.
Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin,
tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www.
surfmania.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Sport events
02.07. State Open Water Championship in
long distance swimming Riva
08.07. ISAF Youth Sailing World Championship
Jazine
10.07. Aquathlon Zadar Sea Organ/Riva
15.07 - 25.07. Waterpolo tournament Riva
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

48 Shopping
Shopping
49
Shopping centres
City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01
00, www.citygalleria.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June - August 31 Open 09:00
-21:00. P
Supernova Centar Zadar Akcije Maslenica 1, tel.
(+385-23) 32 73 01. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August
31 Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Antiques
A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives
you the opportunity to find that very unique treasure. As
you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across
the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian
fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. Jurja
Barakovića Street, daily 09:00-14:00 and 17:00
-21:00.
Art Galleries
Anima C-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78
01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www.anima.hr. Paintings and
postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian
themes. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. A
Bambola C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31
86 10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. Q
Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. July - September Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun
14:00 - 22:00. A
More B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 16 24/
(+385-) 098 955 80 12. Croatian souvenirs. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. A
Museum of Ancient Glass Shop D-2, Poljana
Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.
mas-zadar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Pia C-3, Madijevaca 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 60. Paintings,
ceramics, lamps, bags and more made by Croatian and Zadar
artisans. The staff will also help you with tourist information.
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. N
Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. (+385-) 098
27 34 73. Traditional hand-made lace from Pag island
and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski woven textiles from
Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin slippers. Handmade
glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00,
18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Val B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 20, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 91.
No, it’s not the name of the owner of unspecified gender, val
means “wave”. Distinctive paintings by Zadar artist Silviana
Dražević, and jewellery by her brother Ivan. Q Open 09:00 -
12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Bookshops
Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-
23) 49 30 50, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June
- August 31 Open 09:00 -21:00. A
VBZ F-6, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10, tel. (+385-23)
25 45 50, www.vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Delicatessen shop
The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear
the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sunbaked
terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch
on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to
their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is
mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many
restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam
as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real
Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper
offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and
trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island
itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out
for signs saying Paški sir.
Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy.
(And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a
tastebud-tingling delicacy).
Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and
mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory
at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting
international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give
yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread,
butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of
olives and a good glass of red wine.
Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25
02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with
a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen
08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A
Crodelice D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 2, tel. (+385-23)
31 55 66, info@crodelice.com, www.crodelice.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A
Delikatese Lukin N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria).
QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 -12:00.
Dobra vina N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-
23) 29 90 44, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Gligora N-5, Murvička 1(City Galleria), tel. (+385-23)
31 33 96, sirena@sirena.hr, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a
specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces
one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.
QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00. A
Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr.
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the
Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to
soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity.
Other groceries available too. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. N
Olvin N-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. A company producing
its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.
QOpen 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N
Uljara Joskro K-1, Put Bokanjca 24, tel. (+385-23)
32 22 25/(+385-) 098 27 39 38, joskro1@zd.t-com.hr.
This family sell their own olive oil, plus anchovies and cows’
and goats’ milk cheese marinated in olive oil. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign newspapers
For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend
to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija
kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town
- Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza
Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and
Tisak shop at Ulica plemića Borelli 25 (C-3).
Nature Cosmetics
L’Occitane D-3, Narodni trg 3, tel. (+385-23) 70 04
04. Also at Supernova Centar Zadar, tel.70 03 93 QOpen
08:00 - 21:00. JA
Zdravi kutak D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 7, tel. (+385-
23) 30 56 12, www.zdravikutak.com. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00. JA
Nautical supplies
Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23)
25 09 68. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. N
Big Blue L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. (+385-23) 23
59 24. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. (+385-23)
25 44 58. Q Open 08:00 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Udica C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 14, tel. (+385-23)
30 53 98. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Jewellery designer Antonija Gospić runs workshops in the
Museum of Ancient Glass, and you can buy her designs in
Marival, Ulica Don Ive Prodovana.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

50 Business directory
Banks & Exchanges
Aquarius D-2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29
19, juresko@zd.t-com.hr, www.juresko.hr. Q June,
September Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30
- 24:00.
Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1,
tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel.
(+385-23) 36 39 20, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
OTP B-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 20 14 10,
www.otpbanka.hr. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. September 16 - June
14 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Privredna banka C-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23)
22 30 64, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Raiffeisen Bank D-1, Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel.
(+385-23) 72 31 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka C-2, Brne Karnarutića 13, tel.
(+385-23) 20 83 02/(+385-23) 20 83 03, www.zaba.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Brokerage houses
OTP B-3, Domovinskog rata 3, tel. (+385-) 062 20 16
74, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Become a fan of Zadar In Your Pocket on
Business connections
HGK - Županijska komora Zadar (Croatian
Chamber of Economy - Zadar Chamber) D-3, Špire
Brusine 16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr,
www.hgk.hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of
Commerce. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka
ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73,
ok.zadar@hok.hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates
Ukraine O - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789
29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
Interpreters & Translators
Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. (+385-23) 31 43 99,
acro@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
Geo K-2, Put Vukića 23, tel. (+385-23) 31 27 58/
(+385-) 098 964 24 34, jasminka.bajlo@zd.t-com.hr.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Real estate
Chonic D-3, Špire Brusine 10/I, tel. (+385-23) 31 16
67/(+385-) 098 73 60 59, 091 564 62 10, www.chonicnekretnine.hr.
QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Gea D-3, Široka ulica 10/1, tel. (+385-23) 25 11 33/
(+385-23) 25 10 69, gea3@zd.t-com.hr, www.gea.hr.
Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Palmes Ugljan 22, Ugljan Island, tel. (+385-23) 28 80
27/(+385-) 098 187 15 30, palmes@palmes-nekretnine.
hr, www.palmes-nekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Phoenix I-4, Strossmayerova 6a, tel. (+385-23) 23 91
39, 23 91 41/(+385-) 091 235 92 33, info@nekretninephoenix.hr,
www.nekretnine-phoenix.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sanmark D-2, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 71
42 40, sanmark@sanmark.hr, www.sanmark.hr. QOpen
08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tax free heaven
Save money when you buy souvenirs
and other stuff to take back
home. Look for the “Tax Free” label
on shop windows, or ask at the
counter. When you buy goods totalling
500kn or more, they’ll give you a
form. Get it stamped when you leave
the country, and you’re entitled to a
tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Etilen N - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21
49 04. Dry cleaners and laundries. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 71.
Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. V
Lotos J - 3, Ivana Gundulića 4d, tel. (+385-23) 33 51 40.
Laundries. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Emergency health care
Hitna medicinska pomoć B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 28a,
tel. (+385-23) 23 98 11. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Hospital
Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. (+385-23) 50
55 05, opca-bolnica-zadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.bolnicazadar.hr.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Pharmacies
Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23
58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular
concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll
find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and
natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. Q
Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+385-
23) 30 29 20. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.
Closed Sun. A
Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina bb, tel. (+385-
23) 25 13 42/(+385-23) 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 -
21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6a, tel.
(+385-23) 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 -
13:30. Closed Sun. A
Photocopying
Pharos C-3, Široka ulica 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 70 54,
pharos@zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 -
20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Trimat grafika D-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-
23) 31 43 73/(+385-23) 30 07 60, grafika@trimat.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Police station
Police station C-3, Zore Dalmatinske 1, tel. (+385-23)
34 51 41, pitanja@mup.hr, www.zadarska.policija.hr.
Lifestyle directory
www.inyourpocket.com
Vets
Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32
36 25/(+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com.hr,
www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you’ve brought
your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER
services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets,
including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, laboratory
tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations. Animalia
has everything your four-legged companion may ever need!
Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-23)
31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar.
com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Veterinarska stanica K-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel.
(+385-23) 32 28 77. Animal clinic. For an emergency call
098 33 94 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95,
www.zoo-vet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are
made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
51
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

52
birdwatching in croatia
birdwatching in croatia 53
Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching
but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text
has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal www.
ptice.net and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko Podravec,
with our thanks.
Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity,
partly due to the interest shown by visitors from other
European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local
ornithological societies and other organisations, including
schools, are also making a significant contribution through
monitoring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps
for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not
only to protect birds but the environment as a whole.
According to data from the State Directorate for the Protection
of Nature and the Environment, in December 1999, there were
371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally high number
for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting species, of
which 78 are registered as endangered species in Europe. At
the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally high number of
endangered species due to disappearing habitats, especially
wetlands, and due to poaching. The majority of protected
species are to be found in hard-to-reach areas such as
mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges, and areas such as
the Neretva delata on the Adriatic coast and along the Sava
and Drava rivers in the north, as well as close to the large
fish farms to be found in Pannonian Croatia.
Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in nature
protection in areas where there are large bird populations,
large numbers of species of birds, or where endangered
species are to be found. Birdlife International has identified 23
The first bird reserve in Croatia
Krapje đol, not far from the villages of Krapje and
Jasenovac in central Croatia, was designated a bird
reserve in 1963. Here, a tributary of the River Sava
provides ideal nesting conditions for the Eurasian
Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). The tributary sadly
dried up due to the construction of an embankment and
became overgrown. However, the species which nest
here, which are rare both in European and global terms,
have been saved thanks to a canal which was built to
restore the flow of water.
www.inyourpocket.com
Darko Podravec
Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while the State Directorate for
the Protection of Nature and the Environment has recognised
40 areas which are important for bird life. Some of these areas
are bird reserves, some form parts of national parks or nature
parks, while others do not enjoy any form of protection.
Although there are birdwatching opportunities all year round,
the liveliest seasons are spring and autumn. Autumn signals
both the departure of species that nest in Croatia and the
arrival of visitors from northern Europe and Asia. In spring,
the species that spend their winters in the warmer climes of
Africa return to nest. At any time, you might spot a species
that is just passing through en route to somewhere else:
Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to and from
Africa for a large number of European bird species. There
are guide books available to help you identify species and
understand their behaviour.
The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early
morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their
most active, especially during the summer when birds, like
people, avoid the hottest part of the day.
Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it’s vital to take care
not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national
parks, nature parks and bird reserves may be distressing to
their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us from
being able to observe their natural behaviour. It is advisable
to avoid getting too close to bird nests, since you risk the
parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous, especially
where endangered species are concerned.
The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good
quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by
species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible
clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will
scare the birds away.
Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect to
the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or
to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these
organisations in monitoring changes in the number of birds,
in their behaviour and habitats.
Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below
we list a range of organisations which might be of interest
to nature lovers, although there might neither be much
information about birds in specific nor professional guides.
Before visiting any protected area, we ask you to please
contact the organisation responsible, which will give you
any instructions and warnings necessary to protect fragile
habitats, enabling as many people as possible to enjoy the
beauty of nature as well as learning how to protect it.
Lake Vrana Nature Park / Lake Vrana Bird Reserve Lake
Vrana lies alongside the coast road between Zadar and
Šibenik, or more precisely, between Pirovac and Pakoštane.
241 bird species have been logged in the area of the Nature
Park, 102 of which nest here. This is a good place to spot
the Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), Great Bittern (Botaurus
stellaris), Corncrake (Crex crex) and Squacco Heron (Ardeola
ralloides), all endangered species in Europe.
The Park staff can organise visits on foot or by boat to
birdwatching sites upon request. The price of a visit, complete
with an expert guide, is 100kn/h per person, and the trip can
take up to five hours. Entry tickets to the Nature Park are also
payable (20kn adults, children 7 - 18, 10kn). Visitors should
bring their own birdwatching equipment, and call ahead to
announce group visits.
Lake Vrana Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd,
tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, 38 64 52, pp-vransko-jezero@
zd.t-com,www.vransko-jezero.hr.
Pag island The island of Pag is home to the following bird
reserves: Kolansko blato, Blato Rogoza, Veliko blato and
Malo blato. All of these are marshlands which are home to
species including the Gadwall (Anas strepera), Montagu’s
Harrier (Circus pygargus) and Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha
calandra), which are endangered in Europe. Call into the Tourist
Association in Povljana to buy entry tickets for the Veliko blato
reserve, which has a hide with a checklist.
Povljana Tourist Association Stjepana Radića 20,
Povljana, tel. (+385-23) 69 20 03, (+385)098 184 21
29, tz-povljana@zd.t-com.hr, www.tz-povljana.hr.
Kolan Tourist Association Trg kralja Tomislava, Kolan, tel.
(+385-23) 69 82 90, info@tzkolan-mandre.com, www.
tzkolan-mandre.com.
Telašćica Nature Park This fantastic nature park in the
Telašćica Bay on Dugi Otok is also designated an Important
Bird Area. 110 bird species have been sighted here. Perhaps
the most exciting birds to spot are birds of prey such as the
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus). The Park is accessible
by boats laid on by travel agencies and private boat owners,
or from dry land from the town of Sali. Entry tickets cost
28 - 60kn. If you require a guide, please phone one week
in advance.
Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel.
(+385-23)37 70 96, 37 73 95, telascica@zd.t-com.hr,
www.telascica.hr.
Kornati National Park A national park made up of some
90 islands, islets and reefs spanning the area between
Biograd and Šibenik. The land is owned by the residents
Fun for the whole family
zadar.inyourpocket.com
of the surrounding islands. This is also an Important Bird
Area, although it’s insufficiently researched with respect to
fauna and flora so there are no accurate data on numbers of
species. In common with other island habitats, owls, seagulls
and the European Shag (no tittering, you at the back) can
be spotted here. You can visit Kornati if you have your own
boat, or as part of a trip organised by a travel agencies and
private boat owners in the areas of Šibenik, Murter, Zadar,
Biograd and the islands in the Zadar area. Tickets are for
sale in the Park itself and in local travel agencies, and cost
150 - 1500kn depending on the size of the boat. There are
no guided tours.
Waterbird Census
Darko Podravec
Bird lovers can take part in the International Winter
Waterbird Census, organised by Wetlands International
on a global level. Taking place over three weeks at the
beginning of January every year, the census aims to collect
information on the ever more endangered bird species
that inhabit marshes and other wetland habitats, as well
as on species that nest in the far northern regions of
Europe and Asia. Read more on www.wetlands.org.
Darko Podravec
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

54 birdwatching in croatia
Fishing on the Adriatic 55
EuroBirdwatch
Bird lovers by now have a date in their diary every
year for the first weekend in October, when the annual
EuroBirdwatch is held. Organised by BirdLife, a global
partnership of conservation organisations, the event aims
to raise awareness of issues related to bird migration,
to promote protection of endangered bird species and
to recruit new members for the partner organisations.
See www.birdlife.org.
Darko Podravec
Kornati National Park Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22)
43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr.
Paklenica National Park
The Paklenica National Park occupies the coastal part of
the southern Velebit mountains. The Park is famous for the
large difference in altitudes you cross as you travel through
it, complete with changes in climate, all in a relatively small
area. Bird species you might spot on the rock and cliff faces
include the Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and the Blue
Looking for more?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius). Rare and endangered
birds of prey to be found here include the Golden Eagle (Aquila
chrysaetos), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Short-Toed
Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and Goshawk (Accipiter gentiles).
Entry tickets to the park cost 40kn depending on the time of
year. Birdwatching as an individual is not permitted: please
call ahead to organise a tour with one of the Park’s official
guides.
Paklenica National Park dr. F. Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad -
Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02, prezentacija@paklenica.
hr, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.paklenica.hr.
Velebit Nature Park / Northern Velebit National Park The
Velebit is the longest mountain range in Croatia, stretching
145km from Vratnik near Senj to the River Zrmanja near Zadar.
It is not classified as an Important Bird Area, nor does it have
any bird reserves, but it does encompass three Parks: the
Northern Velebit National Park, the Velebit Nature Park and
the Paklenica National Park. It has two strict nature reserves
(both in the Northern Velebit National Park) as well as nature
reserves for plant life, and the area is rich in flora and fauna.
Nesting sides of the following birds are to be found here: the
Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum), the Ortolan
Bunting (Emberiza hortulana), the Western Capercaillie or
Wood Grouse (Tetrao urogallus), White Backed Woodpecker
(Dendrocopus leucotos) and the the Boreal Owl (Aegolius
funereus).
Velebit National Park Kaniža Gospićka 4b, Gospić, tel.
(+385-53) 56 04 50, Krasno office (+385-53) 85 16 00,
Obrovac office (+385-23)68 98 18, velebit@pp-velebit.
hr, www.pp-velebit.hr.
Northern Velebit Nature Park Krasno 96, Krasno, tel.
(+385-53) 66 53 80, npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr, www.
np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.
Senj Info Centre Obala kralja Zvonimira, tel.(+385-53) 88
45 51. There are no organised birdwatching activities.
Val agency This travel agency organises birdwatching tours
over several days in Dalmatia during the spring and autumn
migrating seasons. Please check www.croatiabirding.com for
details, dates and prices.
Val-tours, Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd n/m, tel.
(+385-23) 38 64 79, info@val-tours.hr,www.val-tours.hr.
Darko Podravec
Nedo Buljan
“The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men’s
lives the hours spent on fishing.” - Assyrian proverb
The Croatian Adriatic is among cleanest seas in Europe. Add
to that its warmth, shallowness, and lack of strong tides and
currents, and you have an ideal environment for the joys of
recreational fishing.
Croatia is often called “the country of a thousand islands”
due to its 66 islands, 652 islets, 389 rocks and 78 reefs.
The waters of the Adriatic are rich in fish, aquatic mammals,
seaweed, plankton, shellfish, crabs and sponges. It’s no
wonder that the tradition of fishing here goes back millennia.
Apart from being a vital industry and a traditional way of life,
fishing today for many people provides an ideal way to relax
and reconnect with nature.
Fishing techniques tend to be passed down through
generations, and you’ll often see grandparents and
grandchildren heading out happily together to catch fish.
The locals, of course, know the best tips and tricks for
their particular waters, and will usually be glad to help and
advise you.
Keen anglers will find all kinds of fishing opportunities in
Croatia due to the diversity of the coastal terrain. Just some
of the places you might like to explore include: the islands
of Mali Lošinj, Jabuka, Svetac and Mali Ždrelac; the channel
that connects the Zadar and the Central channels; and the
Bay of Pag, where there are so many fish that you can exceed
your legal fishing limit with alarming ease. Then there’s the Tri
Sestrice islets near Zadar and the entire Zadar archipelago.
Lovers of spearfishing will find their nirvana in the mystical
depths around the islands of Glavat and Molunat. You can
also have unique fishing experiences off the coast of the
Pelješac peninsula and close to the island of Šolta, a spot
so beloved of Roman emperor Diocletian that he ordered
fish ponds be built on the island. You might be lucky enough
to spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s most
endangered species, which is often spotted around Šolta.
There are over 400 species of fish native to the Adriatic, and
if you’re hunting for your lunch or dinner in a local restaurant
you’ll most likely “catch” orada (sea bass), brancin (sea
bream), arbun (common pandora), skuša (mackerel),
lokarda (chub mackerel), srdele (sardines), papaline
(sprats), škarpina (scorpion fish), trlja (red mullet), ušata
(saddled seabream), pic (sharpsnout seabream), zubatac
(dentex), grdobina (monkfish), and kovač (John Dory).
However, because of various threats presented by mankind
such as pollution, overfishing and increasingly intensive
tourism, more and more species native to the Adriatic are
endangered. The following species have protected status
in Croatia: the ocean sunfish (lat. Mola mola), fan mussel
(Pinna nobilis), date mussel (Lithophaga lithophaga), Caspian
gull (Larus cachinnans), green wrasse (Labrus viridis),
sea cucumber (Holothurioidea), Mediterranean monkseal
(Monachus monachus), common bottlenose dolphin
(Tursiops truncates), common dolphin (Delphinus delphis),
the whale, the sea turtle, the shellfish Dolium galea and
Mitra zonata, the large sea snail Triton’s Trumpet (Charonia
tritonis), and Neptune Grass (Posidonia oceanica).
Nedo Buljan
There are several ways to fish at sea, and most people
take part in sea fishing for sport and recreation. Whichever
kind of fishing you want to enjoy, you must first make sure
you take care of the paperwork. You can buy permits
covering one day (60kn), three days (150kn), seven days
(300kn) and one month (700kn), while Croatian citizens
and foreigners with temporary residence in Croatia can buy
one year permits. Prices are subject to change, and are the
same for sport and recreational licences. When buying a
sports licence you must also purchase a membership card
of the Croatian Sea Sport Fishing Association, which costs
50kn. Licences can be bought at offices of the Ministry of
Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development in Pula, Rijeka,
Senj, Zadar, Šibenik, Split, Ploče and Dubrovnik; in travel
agencies, harbourmasters’ offices and from authorized
resellers; while the membership card of the Sport Fishing
Association is bought from the organization itself. You can
find a list showing where to buy recreational licences at the
Minstry’s website,www.mps.hr, which has English pages. For
the sport fishing licence and membership, see www.hssrm.
hr/mjesta-prodaja-dozvola.html
Fishing is not allowed in special reservations, in harbours or
on beaches between 1 June and 1 October. There are special
regulations governing fishing in national parks. The maximum
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

56 Fishing on the Adriatic Zadar county 57
Nedo Buljan
daily catch is 5kg for recreational and sport licences, and you
may not sell or exchange your catch. There is also a list of
regulations on the protection of fish species which stipulates
the minimum size of commercially important fish and other
sea creatures that may be caught. If you accidentally find
a female spiny lobster in your net, or a European lobster
with eggs, you must immediately put them back in the sea
regardless of their size.
Most people go fishing from a quiet spot on the shore or from
a small fishing boat, while adrenalin seekers go for either big
game fishing or spearfishing.
Big game fishing is an exciting sport using fast boats on
the open sea to catch powerful fish such as tuna and marlin.
Licences are for sale in travel agencies. The largest and most
prized catch on the Croatian Adriatic is bluefin tuna, which is in
season from August to January. The belt of water around the
island of Blitvenica and the Kornati archipelago is especially
suitable for bluefin tuna fishing. Other “big game” which can
be caught in this way include swordfish (sabljarka), greater
amberjack (gof), Atlantic bonito (palamida), dolphin fish
(lampuga), and blue shark (modrulj).
The beauty of this sport is its unpredictable nature and the
co-ordination of the whole crew on board the boat. If you visit
the village of Jezera on the island of Murter, you can watch (or
take part in) Europe’s largest big game fishing competition.
Spearfishing is the most selective form of fishing. You
can fish while free diving, snorkelling or scuba diving, and
nowadays anglers use elastic-powered or compressed
gas spearguns or slings to hunt the fish. Spearfishing
can only take place during the daylight hours for obvious
reasons, and the sport requires you to be both physically
and psychologically fit due to both the diving skills required
and the weapon used. In the Adriatic, the best spearfishing
is to be had in late summer and early autumn. The best fish
is to be found where the sea has a rocky bottom, providing
shelter for the fish. The best-known spearfishing competition
in the Adriatic is the New Year Spearfishing Cup held on the
island of Mali Lošinj.
Nedo Buljan
Finally, don’t forget, whichever kind of fishing you go for, it’s
important for your sake and everyone else’s that you keep
within the law and fish in a responsible and ethical manner.
We wish you calm seas and a plentiful catch!
Nedo Buljan
Islands
Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great
places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are
somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the
more delightful to discover.
Dugi otok
Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s
“Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one
of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even
in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and
attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running
from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival
called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh
grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades
in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The
festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers
leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique
element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island,
played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns
poached from some poor beast.
If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of
Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for
divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There
are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the
island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your
heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island.
Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course,
clothing-optional zones.
A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part
of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali.
Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets
and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay -
the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim
Tourist information
i
Dugi otok Tourist Board Obala
Perta Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23)
37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www.
dugiotok.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb,
Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73
93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Q
Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by
Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00
inside park premises. Admission 60kn.
there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient
inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible
treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to
olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is
not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing
fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.
Iž
This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green,
low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and
Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food,
and offers personal development programs including yoga
and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery
displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the
same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to
Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole
Dalmatian coastline.
The streets are too
narrow for cars, but
luckily the locals are
renowned for being a
jolly and friendly lot, and
will come to your aid with
trolleys for your luggage.
The town’s festival takes
place over 3 days in
August, and showcases
a local oddity, water
basketball. Mali Iž has
lovely beaches. The
i slanders live from
fishing, olives, making
great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs
that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to
them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for
swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim
there.
Tourist information
i
Zadar Tourist Board office Veli Iž 195, tel.
(+385-23) 27 70 21.
Ist & Molat
Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 -
count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried
away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day,
Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only
a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is
covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep.
It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by
boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where
the ferry docks.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

58 Zadar county
Zadar county
59
Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It
has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is
good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely
uncommercialised.
Pašman
You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge
from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the
island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and
fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of
sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully
preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating
back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century
Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac
hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of
peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to
relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an ecocottage.
If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac,
an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also
fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje
Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean
sandy beaches.
Tourist information
i
Pašman Tourist Board Pašman, tel.
(+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr,
www.pasman.hr.
Tkon Tourist Board Tkon, tel. (+385-
23) 28 52 13, tz-opcine-tkon@zd.t-com.hr. QJune,
September Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 10:00. July,
August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Pag
Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are
extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the
moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns,
with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not
what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But
that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
There are many other weird and
wonderful things about Pag.
It’s oddly squid-like in shape,
with the “tentacles” forming
lagoons. The sea is very calm
here and the water has an
exceptionally high salt content.
There have been saltpans
here for centuries: you can still
buy Pag salt normally in any
supermarket. It’s completely
natural and has a high mineral
content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the
island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and
herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.
These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’
meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese
is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export
products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and
hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive,
so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We
recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of
some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts
to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški
sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try
it if you have the chance.
The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace
making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better
for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep,
watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the
day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.
Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it
is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.
Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive
- expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from
the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from
a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it
is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase
supports a vital cottage industry.
In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj
Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design
the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical
layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the
streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little
cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was
also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque
Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to
create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting
churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches
and several good restaurants.
In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as
Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens
is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is
the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its
facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres
from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a
number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of
some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to
create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice
Tourist information
i
Tourist Information Centre Vela ulica 18,
Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@
zd.t-com.hr, www.tzgpag.hr.
cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because
of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised
in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline
of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places
where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes,
white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of
the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the
mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near
Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and
follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit.
It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks
pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline,
lagoon-calm sea.
Money, money...
Money, money, ancient money! The first ever Croatian
paper currency was the ‘assignat of the City of Pag’,
in 1778. Until then, payments to clerks, officials and
doctors were in salt. Once the ‘assignat’ was launched,
the amount of salt was then converted to the lira
equivalent and an invoice was issued. Each ‘assignat’
had an inscription of the amount of money and the date
of issue.
Silba, Olib & Premuda
These small green islands with one village apiece, each
necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual
tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar
(see “Getting around”).
Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and
is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere.
The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including
jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays
jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a
large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly
beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to
windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a
game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2,
Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back
to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of
repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high
tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea
captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when
he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?).
Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a
symbol of love.
Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian
islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it
has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure
water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits,
which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese
is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the
local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely
little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches
including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where
you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the
alphabet in which Croatian was first written.
Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has
an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore,
and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that,
expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone
houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and
clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.
Tourist information
i
Silba Tourist Board tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10,
tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.silba.net.
Ugljan
That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite
when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike
from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s
name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive
oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The
gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant
agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see
ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.
Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is
a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to
see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are
a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into
their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk
takes you to the other side of the island where you come to
excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which
are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely
shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church
of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the
Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement
where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade
with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and
shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also
popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day,
taking you to Zadar or Preko.
On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of
the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and
everybody complains about how bad the weather is these
days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a
nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion
- the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and
oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still
can be seen fishing there to this day.
Tourist information
i
Kukljica Tourist Board Kukljica,
tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, kukljica@
kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr.
Preko Tourist Board Magazin 8,
Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08,
tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. QJune, September
Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, July - August 31 Open
08:00 - 22:00.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

60 Zadar county
Zadar county
61
Zaton
This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for
many visitors and is located between the two historic cities
of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape
for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of
its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports
activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its
rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton
springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants
of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the
Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman
period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present
day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards
the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn
from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a
frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which
is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has
three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the
dome above its center. The church was built with traces of
the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning
of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome
during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower
was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.
The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the
tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in
1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to
defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton
is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in
1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the
cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew
is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times
(built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes,
used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to
the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the
area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find
something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled
with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps
and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous
tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from
the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly
is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family
vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting
activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling
and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the
disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and
pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you
are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with
a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that
unforgettable dream getaway.
Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova 76t, Zaton-NIn,
tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, sales.dept@zaton.hr, www.
zaton.hr.
Zaton Tourist Board Zadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin,
tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zatonzd.hr.
QOpen Mon 07:00 - 21:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

62 Zadar county
Zadar county
63
Nin
Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of
Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes
of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic
gems have their very own story to tell.
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained
control, the town had flourished as it was an important
harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and
development of import, export and migration attracted
merchants and other settlers to the area.
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold.
Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of
the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday
experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking
surroundings.
The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a
shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is
located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius.
Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges
which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates.
The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing
tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical
monuments.
Some of the archeological highlights include two original
and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’,
(11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the
harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from
the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic
chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church
of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to
be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver
of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for
a feast of culture.
The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are
their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that
summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the
accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated
apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.
A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is
the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for
medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised
medical personnel assist visitors and patients with
therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its
medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is
performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes
bathing and swimming in warm sea water.
As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing
much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built
from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What
visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical
structures entwined with the natural ambience of mothernature
that provides the perfect getaway.
We recommend that you visit:
Park Solana Nin Ilirska cesta 4, tel. (+385-23) 26
47 64. Open 07:00 - 15:00. July, August open 10:00
- 18:00. Admission 10kn.
Dar Mar Donkey Farm Poljica, tel. (+385-23) 39
01 23, 098 180 51 71. Admission 10kn.
Nin Tourist Board tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+385-
23) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr.
Biograd
The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important
political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.
Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic
- travelling throughout their territories between their power
bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar
functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of
these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important
moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman
as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the
states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single
crowned head - this time, by treaty.
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in
Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date
925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true
Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was
he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian
state and built the country into a military power rivalling
Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the
few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked
Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of
St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th
century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta
Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative
well in front and baroque altars inside.
of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find
the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just
a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s
best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park.
You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun
and a host of other amenities.
The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and
scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and
apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you
past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and
partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware
that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline
here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find
a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with
a holiday village behind.
Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which
has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and
presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and
turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV
22, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21. Open 09:00-12:00, 20:00-
22:00. Closed Sun.
Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history
nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula
with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the
ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside
promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are
attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

64 Zadar county
Zadar county
65
Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well
equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to
windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand
at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike
route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just
east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby
resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just
south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since
Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock
of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and
birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain
for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets
more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a
peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a
nice break from the hubbub of the coast.
Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint
Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s
an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your
host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight
of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati
archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.
Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and
dare we say, Europe.
Tourist information
i
Biograd n/m Tourist Board Trg
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31
23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd.
hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Information on
activites and trips, and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Ancient Churches and Castles of
Zadar County
Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad
of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient
churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian
kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in
controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly
rich in castles and history. For millennia, the area that is
now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles
between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans
vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs.
the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the
Croats. Fortunately for the modern visitor, the only struggle
these days is deciding where to go sightseeing first! The sea,
hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop
to ancient buildings.
If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit
of the county, the first notable town encountered is Nin, 16
kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest
church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the
Holy Cross (Crkva svetog Križa). An inscription on the lintel
is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the
town, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas’s (Crkva svetog
Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an
ancient burial mound, it’s easy to spot. When the Ottoman
Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they
refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated top. It makes
the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians
drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas
was refortified again.
Looking for more?
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2,
Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vransko-jezero@
zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer
to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake
Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors all day which
includes weekends.
Travel agencies
Val tours Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-
23) 38 64 79, val-tours@val-tours.hr, www.val-tours.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County.
Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies
on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag
Island to the north. Templar knights are believed to have built
Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a
clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or
west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local
inhabitants took shelter there. Later the castle featured
prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians.
As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way
to this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery
store in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road,
then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna
at the top of the hill. Follow that dirt road to Ljubač. It’s about
a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It’s not advisable
to drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it
would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not too far from Ljubač, on the
southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle
fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th
century, it’s just below the bridge from the mainland to Pag,
guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag’s barren
landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač.
The two are visible from each other, making one speculate
what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might
have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get
to Fortica by going north towards the town of Pag on route
106 from the Posedarje exit on the A1 motorway. Novigrad
(literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle
ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name,
also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before
them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of
the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been
modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on
the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km
east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front
line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387)
in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife
of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her
mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian
Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s
defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during
1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle
was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of
1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also
held the town for two years. There is another spectacular
view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins,
which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find
(again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that
ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the
stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around
10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle. Obrovac is another
hill top castle/fortress above a modern day town of the
same name. You can reach this small town easily from the
Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1. There
are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about
10-15 minutes to ascend the steep hill from the middle of
town to the castle. The stately Velebit
www.inyourpocket.com
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

Zadar county
67
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011

68 Zadar county
Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built atop a
Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble
family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the
Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars
the Venetians overran the town, but the Turks reoccupied
it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under
the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bortolazzi, liberated
Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs
captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The
Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the town there is very little
evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles
worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km
south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac
exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town
with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family,
Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely
restored. It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac
has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and
governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th
century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They
held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took
over. It became a rural county district under the French
Paklenica National Park
The Paklenica National
Park lies just north
of Zadar within the
Ve l e b i t m o u n t a i n
range. Two streams,
the Velika and Mala
Paklenica, c a r ve
their way through the
soft limestone leaving
gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock
formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery
is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large
quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests
and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include
the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild
boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx.
The park is a favourite destination for hikers and
climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk
from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica
Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours),
though there are many more demanding routes. The
park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain
hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on
(+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.
hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on
www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s
entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number
of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.
Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a,
Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/
(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr,
www.paklenica.hr.
in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied
this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great
Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a
well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a
rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to
the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the
north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will
entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there.
You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on
route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to
the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private
homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When
the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and
cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel
track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At
a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore
others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and
see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a
stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek
through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof.
Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end
of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An
extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac’s
inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in
the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government
officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont
inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar
County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers
south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The
modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient,
ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the
remains of a church are clearly discernable.
Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a
Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was
a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town
to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana
came into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights
Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as
medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was
wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the
region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the
early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg
Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured
Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of
the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take
a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey
of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is
the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is
perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and
there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of
Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also
Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south.
When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main
road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved
road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing
the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can
drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that
ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located
at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians
fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post.
Because the site is
so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled
Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks
did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a
communications
tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere
somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because
of the great views. As you travel around the county you may
observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those
described above are the largest and most spectacular. The
fact that they were built for military reasons and changed
hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of
the Zadar area through the millennia.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com

S.C.
Alesandra Paravije B-3
Ante Kuzmanića
E-3,4
Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1
Bartula Kašića
D-3/E-3
Bedemi zadarskih pobuna
A,B,C,D-2
Benedikte Braun M-5
Bijanchinija
K-5/B-3
Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2
Blaža Jurjeva
L-6/C-3
Borelli
L-6/C-3
Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3
Braće Bersa
K-6/A-3
Braće Bilšić
K-6/A-3
Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3
Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2
Brodarska
K-4/L-4/C-1
Ćirila Ivekovića
L-6/C-4
Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6
Dinarska J-4
Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3
Đure Sudete
J-3,4
Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Jurja Bijankinija
K-6/B-3 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1
Forum
K-6/C-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4
Foša
L-6/D,E-4 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2
Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Oko vrulja K-4
Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2
Franje iz Milana
L-6/D-4 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3
Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3
Grge Oštrića J-4 Krešimirova obala B-4 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2
Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2
Grigora Viteza L-3 Luke Jelića
K-6/A-3 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3
Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Lukoranska K-4 Poljanska
L,M-3
Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Pravdonoše
K-5/B-2
Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4
Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Madijevaca
K,L-6/C-3 Prečka L-3
Ivana Bršića K-5 Među bedemima M-6 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6
Ivana Danila
K-6/A-3 Mihe Klaića
L-6/D-3 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3
Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Put Dikla
G,J-3
Ivana Meštrovića
K-3,4 Miroslava Krleže
J,K-4 Put Šimunova
L,M-3,4
Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4
Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3 Narodni trg
L-6/C,D-3 Ravnice M-6
Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Narodnog lista
L-5/D-2 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1
Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4
Sirac
L-6/D-4
Slavoljuba Penkale K-4
Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1
Stomorica
L-6/C-3,4
Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4
Sv. Nediljice
L-6/C-4
Šime Ljubavca
L-6/D-4
Šime Ljubića
L-6/D-4
Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3
Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3
Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3
Špire Brusine
L-6/D-3
Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3
Trg opatice Čike B-3
Trg pet bunara
L-6/D-3
Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3
Trg sv. Frane
K-6/A-3
Trg sv. Krševana K-5/B,C-2
Trg sv. Stošije
K-6/B-3
Trg tri bunara
K-5/A-3
Ulica BoreLli
L-6/C-3
Varoška
L-6/C,D-3
Vatroslava Lisinskog J,K-3,4
Velebitska
L-4,5/D-1
Veslačka
L-4,5/D-1
Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4
Vladimira Papafave K-6/A,B-3
Voštarnica L-4
Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5
Vrata sv. Roka K-5
Zadarskog mira K-6
Zlatarska
L-5/C-2
Zore dalmatinske L-6/C-3
Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5
www.inyourpocket.com

GARAGE
JADROLINIJA
13
cinema
FORUM
Medulićeva
Pozdrav suncu
Greeting to the Sun
SHOPPING
UNIVERSITY
MORSKE ORGULJE I POZDRAV SUNCU
SEA ORGAN & GREETING TO THE SUN