osijek

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Mapsosijek2011/2012Osijek‘s shows its artyside:culture galore, more than everbefore!Sun-drenchedSlavonia:golden sunflowers and wineN°5 - free copywww.inyourpocket.com“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwrittenseries of guidebooks.”The New York Times

Contents3ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDESContentsArriving 5Time to get after itHistory 6Everything you need to knowCulture & Events 7Reasons we love this cityThese decorative slippers are made by the Blažekovičfamily, who work in wax and sugar to produce traditionalornaments that look good enough to eat!Where to stay 11Bring your PJs and leave the rest to usRestaurants 13Bring your big-boy tummyCafés 15A buzzing city sceneNightlife 16Nothin’wrong with a little bump & grindWhat to see 17Eyes front!Mail & Phones 21It’s good to talkGetting around 22Planes, trains, automobiles and moreTransport map 23Sport 24More exciting than you may thinkShopping 25Directory 26Your mini Yellow PagesThe Pannonian plains have their own special beauty:forests, wetlands, rich wildlife and fields rolling as far as theeye can see.osijek.inyourpocket.comOsijek Baranja County 27Nature and tradition mere minutes awayMaps & IndexCountry map 31City map 32Street register 352011/2012

4 ForewordArriving in OSIJEK5Virtually any discussion about vacationing in Europe is boundto come around to the famed Croatian coast. But there’smore to Croatia than just the coast (believe it or not!) andit would truly be a shame to miss out on an opportunity tovisit the Continental part of the country and catch a glimpseof what life is like in the another part of Croatia. The regionsurrounding Osijek is renowned for warm-hearted people,delicious food and a wealth of outdoor activities.The city itself has a charming, small-town feel, with wideavenues and spacious squares that just beg to be exploredand admired. It’s also known as the greenest Croatian city,and for good reason. There are 17 parks in the city, full oftrees and grass to play and lounge around in. The aestheticpleasures of the city are complemented by a rich historicaland architectural tradition, present in the cathedral andfortress that are must-see sights during your visit to thecity.And once you have explored the city itself, there are a load ofday-trips to be taken, including bicycling along the Danube,fishing in the Drava, birdwatching in the Kopački Rit NaturePark or visiting the castles that are all just a short distancefrom the city. If you come expecting the coast, you will beslightly disappointed. If you come expecting a chance toexperience the culture, history and traditions of a uniquepart of the world and to have a relaxing, low-key stay, thenyou will certainly be pleasantly surprised.In Your Pocket Video GuidesIn Your Pocket goes into the movie business...Kind of... Over the past few months we have graduallybeen putting together some extensive videoguides to various In Your Pocket cities, usingour own editors, writers and local researchers aspresenters. You can see much of our video contentembedded on our website at inyourpocket.com,or view all our videos in one place on our YouTubechannel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.Looking for more? Just click!osijek.inyourpocket.comESSENTIAL CITY GUIDESOsijek In Your PocketDraškovićeva 66, ZagrebCroatiatel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70fax (+385-1) 492 39 24zagreb@inyourpocket.comwww.inyourpocket.comISSN 1846-257X©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.Printed by Radin print, Sveta NedeljaEditorialEditor Višnja ArambašićAssistant Editor Kristina KovačResearcher Anita Piplović, BlankaValićContributors Jonathan Bousfield,Chad F. Phillips, Nataly Anderson, PaulBergenLayout & Design Ivana Novak, GordanKarabogdanPhotos In Your Pocket team, SilvijaButković, Tourist Board of Osijek, MarinTopićCover: Tourist Board of OsijekSales & CirculationGeneral Manager Višnja ArambašićSales & Circulation ManagerKristijan Vukičevićzagreb@inyourpocket.comThe World In Your PocketNorthernIrelandIrelandNetherlandsPolandGermanyCzechRepublicAustriaSwitzerlandSloveniaRomaniaCroatiaBosniaSerbiaBulgariaMontenegro KosovoFYR MacedoniaAlbaniaGreeceIn Your Pocket has broken much new ground oflate, publishing new guides in the Netherlands(Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), inAustria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland(Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). Thisyear will also see the first non-European Pocketsrolled out in South Africa and Mozambique.We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to allour cities. We will be launching even more In YourPocket guides as apps throughout this year: tofind out which cities we will be covering, and tokeep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, likeIn Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).Copyright noticeEstoniaRussiaLatviaLithuaniaBelarusUkraineText and photos copyright PlavaPonistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyrightcartographer. All rights reserved. No partof this publication may be reproducedin any form, except brief extracts forthe purpose of review, without writtenpermission from the publisher andcopyright owner. The brand name In YourPocket is used under license from UABIn Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocketguides is independent from paid-foradvertising. Sponsored listings areclearly marked as such. We welcome allreaders‘ comments and suggestions.We have made every effort to ensurethe accuracy of the information at thetime of going to press and assume noresponsibility for changes and errors.By busE-3, Bartula Kašića 70, tel. (+385-) 060 35 33 53, turist.os@app.hr, www.app.hr. A new and modern bus stationhas been opened this year with an impressive glass exterior.The station has 16 platforms (peron) and an undergroundcar park which caters for 250 car spaces and is under videosurveillance.The car park is open 00:00 - 24:00 and it costs3kuna per hour to park your car. As you enter the bus stationthe information desk which is open 00:00 - 24:00 is nearby,as is the ticket-counter which is open from 05:00 - 21:00.The news-stand is open between 05:00 - 22:00 and an ErsteBank ATM Machine is beside it. Going through the hallway onegets to the Mlinar Bakery open from 06:00 - 21:00, Saturdaysfrom 07:00 - 14:00, and Sundays from 07:00 - 12:00. At theend of the hallway there is a toilet which is free of charge andopen 00:00 - 24:00. Smoking is forbidden inside the busstation and just out of interest music is played throughoutthe entire complex.By carThe car journey from Zagreb to Osijek can be accomplishedspeedily and easily using the Zagreb-Lipovac-Osijek freeway,a 300km stretch of easy travelling highway. The trip shouldn’ttake longer than 3 hours and the toll is 102kn, payable in mostcurrencies, cash or credit card. Another option for getting toOsijek from Zagreb is using the Podravska Magistrala stateroad that connects Zagreb-Bjelovar-Virovitica-Osijek. FromBudapest If you’re travelling by car from Budapest, motorright along towards Pecs, then head for Beli Manastir andOsijek. From Bosnia Travellers from Bosnia need to hit thefollowing locations during a car journey Livno-Zenica-Doboj-Slavonski Šamac and your final destination, lovely Osijek.www.inyourpocket.comBy planeKlisa Airport, Vukovarska 67, Klisa, tel. (+385-31) 51 4440/(+385-31) 51 44 51, fax (+385-31) 51 44 60, opc@osijek-airport.hr, www.osijek-airport.hr. Osijek has a smallbut functional airport in Klisa, about 20km from the city byway of the Osijek -Vukovar regional road. The flight scheduleis exceedingly simple so there is no information desk, but youcan get flight and ticket information by calling airport offices at(+385-31) 51 44 40, (+385-31) 51 44 42, (+385-31) 51 4441 or 060 33 93 39. You can also buy tickets at the airportoffice at V. J. Gotovca 7. Should you require some refreshmentbefore or after your journey, there’s a small cafe in the airportthat works 07:30 - 15:30 and also during flights. Closed Sat,Sun unless there are flights. Toilets are available at no charge.Getting to town: As each plane lands at the airport, a van isalready pre-scheduled to take visitors to the city centre for25kuna per person.By trainE-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 2, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44,www.hznet.hr. Osijek’s train station (željeznički kolodvor)is in the process of being renovated, but currently only one hallhas been restored. The restoration that has been completedsuggests that the station’s interior will have a sparklinglyclean and modern look. For now, main services are settledin this updated part of the station. The domestic serviceticket window is open 04:50 - 21:40. The internationalservice ticket window is open 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat,Sun. Calling home: If you need to make a call there’s apayphone and a kiosk inside for purchasing a phone card thatis open 05:00 - 22:00 as well as two ATM’s. Toilet is in thehall to the left and it requires the typical 2kn charge. There isalso a 24-hour cafe in the station, Slavonija Inn. There is noleft luggage or information desk in the train station. Gettingto town: Taxi and trams await right outside the station.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

6 HISTORYCulture & Events7Basic dataPopulation:Croatia (April 2001): 4,290,612; Osijek (2011): 107,784Osijek Baranja County: 330,506Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54%Serbs, 5.83% other.Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km 2 .It shares borders with Hun gary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro,Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy.The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountainswhich create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attractionfor good reason - the crystal clear wa ters are some of themost beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatiancoast, 47 of them inhabited.Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It amblesjust south of the train station. The Drava covers a dis tanceof 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through thecountry.Local time: Croatia is part of the Central Eu ro pean TimeZone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Osijek it is 12:00 in Berlin,11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and21:00 in Sydney.3rd century BC Illyrians and Celts establish settlements onthe banks of the Drava, near present-day Osijek133 Roman Emperor Hadrian establishes Colonia Aelia Mursa,a mixed military-civilian settlement on the site of present-dayOsijek’s Donji Grad.380 Mursa is sacked by the Goths7th century Migrating Slav tribes settle throughoutsoutheastern Europe. Among them are the Croats, whooccupy Slavonia, the Adriatic coast, and much of Bosnia.8th century Eastern Slavonia becomes part of the BulgarianEmpire9th century Eastern Slavonia falls under the rule of Croatiankings1102 Croatia forms a dynastic union with Hungary1196 Osijek is mentioned for the first time in historicalsources as “Essek”, a port and trade centre under the ruleof Hungarian King Emerik.1241 - 2 Slavonia is ravaged by the Mongols13th - 14th centuries Osijek emerges as an importantfortress town under powerful local magnates the Korogyifamily.1526 The Ottoman Turks capture Osijek from theHungarians.1566 In order to cross the marshlands northeast of town,the Turks construct a 8km-long wooden bridge from Osijek toDarda. Featuring watch-towers and rest-stations, the bridgebecome one of the wonders of European engineering.1600s Osijek becomes famous for its 8-day-long spring fair,which attracts thousands of merchants from all over theOttoman Empire.1664 In fighting between the Habsburg and OttomanEmpires, Croatian noble Nikola Subić Zrinski leads a unit intoeastern Slavonia and burns down the wooden bridge.1687 Habsburg armies under Count Nicholas Lodron drivethe Ottoman Turks out of Slavonia, liberating Osijek on 26September. Austrian and German settlers arrive in the army’swake, re-populating the town. The Habsburgs incorporateOsijek into the so-called Military Frontier, a belt of territorybordering on the Ottoman Empire which is placed underthe direct rule of Habsburg generals. Osijek becomes theheadquarters of the Military Frontier’s eastern sector.1712 - 22 Construction of the Tvrđa, the fortified complexthat serves as the Military Frontier’s eastern HQ.1738 - 39 Bubonic plague kills an estimated 50% of Osijek’spopulation.mid - 1700s Eastern Slavonia is re-populated with Croats,Czechs, Slovaks and Germans, summoned here by HabsburgEmpress Maria Theresa to boost agriculture and trade.1783 Habsburg Emperor Josef II moves the Military Frontier’seastern HQ from Osijek to Petrovaradin (near Novi Sad inSerbia).1779 A new road from Osijek to Budapest boosts the localeconomy.1800s. Osijek becomes a thriving multi-cultural metropolis.Croatian, German and Hungarian words are mangledtogether to form a uniquely polyglot local slang known asEssekerski.1900 The consecration of the Church of SS Peter and Paul,the tallest structure so fasr built in Osijek.1907 A branch of the Croatian National Theatre opens inOsijek1918 The Habsburg empire collapses, and Osijek becomespart of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes –subsequently re-named Yugoslavia.1923 Osijek city authorities begin demolishing the 18thcenturyfortifications, establishing riverside parks in theirplace.April 1941 Yugoslavia falls to Nazi Germany and her allies.April 1945 Communist partisans liberate Osijek from theNazis. Croatia once more becomes part of Yugoslavia, thistime as a federal republic of a one-party socialist state.1950s Osijek emerges as a major industrial centreproducing, among other things, most of Yugoslavia’s soapand matchesMay 1980 Yugoslavia’s authoritarian ruler Josip Broz Titodies, ushering in a decade of stagnation and uncertaintyApril 1990 With faith in communist Yugoslavia ebbingaway, multi-party elections in Croatia are won by the proindependenceHDZ.19 May 1991 A nationwide referendum produces anoverwhelming majority in favour of Croatian independencefrom Yugoslavia26 June 1991 Croatia declares independenceAugust 1991 The Yugoslav Army, supported by Serbianparamilitaries, begins an invasion of eastern Slavonia.November 1991 The east-Slavonian town of Vukovar falls toYugoslav-Serb forces, who then advance on Osijek, subjectingthe city to a 9-month siege. Osijek remains a front-line city,exposed to periodic shelling, throughout the war.August 1995 Croatian victories on the battlefield bring theCroat-Serb conflict to an end.1995-2010 Osijek slowly resumes its position as theeconomic and cultural capital of eastern Croatia.National holidaysJanuary 1January 6April 8 2012April 9 2012May 1June 7 2012June 22June 25August 5August 15October 8November 1December 25December 26New Year’s DayEpiphanyEasterEaster MondayInternational Workers' DayCorpus ChristiAnti Fascist Resistance DayStatehood DayVictory and HomelandThanksgiving DayFeast of the AssumptionIndependence DayAll Saints’ DayChristmasSaint Stephen’s DayOsijek Summer Nightswww.tzosijek.hr. These nights are usually held on thelast Friday in June, July and August and at the differentcity locations. There is entertainment for the little onesand adults alike, ranging from plays, concerts, streetentertainers to culinary presentations. The dates maychange, weather permitting.Exhibitions06.05.2011. Friday - 29.01.2012. SundayThe History of radio in OsijekF-2, Museum of Slavonia, Trg Svetog Trojstva 6, Tvrđa,tel. (+385-31) 25 07 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr. All we here is, radio gaga! That great Queen track stillhits the airwaves today and this exhibition is devoted to theintroduction and progress of radio in Osijek which began in1943 during WWII. Relive programmes that included politics,economy, culture and art in the early days, to 24hour coverageof the Homeland War, to internet radio stations, and more.It is a radio paradise!30.06 Thursday - 11.09 SundayIvan SarićF-2, Museum of Slavonia, Trg Svetog Trojstva 6, Tvrđa,tel. (+385-31) 25 07 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr. Ivan Sarić could be claimed as a bit of a daredevil inhis time, this Croat (1876-1966) from Subotica lived for theday. He was a pilot, athlete, cyclist and motorcyclist. He isespecially famous for his pioneering role as an airman andlater became famous for making a flight by monoplane overthe Subotica horse racing track distancing 3km, on October16, 1910. In fact, he built that monoplane himself.07.07 Thursday - 31.08 WednesdayDarko Glavan and the Osijek Art SceneF-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+385-31) 25 12 80; 25 12 87, gluo@gluo.hr, www.gluo.hr.In many ways Darko Glavan was the guru of Osijek art, thisart critic passionately conducted his work. He wrote aboutartists, nominated them for awards and recommended themto other custodians and critics. He knew the Osijek art sceneinside out and it is here that five artists: Mario Čaušić, TihomirMatijević, Mile Nekić, Domagoj Sušac and Ratko Žaja presenttheir works whilst accompanied by Glavan’s texts from yearsback which are a reminder of his knowledge and persona.Osijek Antique MarketOsječki sajam antikvitetaF-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva, tel.(+385-31) 20 37 55. Th ebuildings aren’t the only old thingsto be found in the Tvrđa. On thefirst Saturday of each month,antique dealers from Croatia andsurrounding countries descend onTrg Svetog Trojstva to peddle theirtreasures. The Osijek AntiquesMarket, organized by the City of Osijek, Glas Slavonijeand the Osijek Tourist Board, opened in 2005 in front ofthe Bastion and then moved to the Tvrđa’s main square.It attracts sellers from Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia andHerzegovina as well as Croatia who offer antique furniture,porcelain, paintings, clocks, coins, and antique weaponsand other collectibles. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

8 Culture & EventsCulture & Events9GalleriesCity Galleries (Gradske galerije) F-2, Fakultetska7, tel. (+385-31) 22 92 29. Behind this title you willfind two galleries: Waldinger City gallery (D-2 Fakultetska7) and Barutana Gallery (I-1 Tvrđavica 192). For any infoabout exhibitions and opening hours you should contactthe number above.Magis Club Gallery (Club galerija Magis) F-2,Europske avenije 6, tel. (+385-31) 21 02 10, magis@timarex.hr, www.timarex.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00,Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.Mario Čaušić, No commercial value 201120.08 Saturday - 11.12 SundayS.M.S. Szent István - Austro-Hungarian warship of the Tegetthoff class - A protectedunderwater siteF-2, Museum of Slavonia, Trg Svetog Trojstva 6, Tvrđa,tel. (+385-31) 25 07 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr. Ship enthusiasts can get a taste of the Adriatic righthere on the mainland with this guest exhibition by the IstrianHistorical Museum from Pula. It presents 36 original itemsfrom this once sunken war ship including its plaque, porcelainobjects, photos of the ship, and photos of the ship being takenout from the sea. The ship was built in Rijeka with its homeport in Pula and was torpedoed during WWI.22.09 Thursday - 06.11 SundayOsijek’s very own Dr Mijo Kišpatić - The firstCroatian doctor of natural sciencesF-2, Museum of Slavonia, Trg Svetog Trojstva 6, Tvrđa,tel. (+385-31) 25 07 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr. Commemorating one of the greats in Croatianmedicine. Kišpatić was born in Osijek 160 years ago and thisexhibit presents his publications and works as Croatia’s firsteducated petrographist and mineralogist.29.09. Thursday - 23.10. SundayWar Rock Photography 1989 - 1995F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+385-31) 25 12 80; 25 12 87, gluo@gluo.hr, www.gluo.hr. An intriguing exhibition opens in September 2011:rock photography from the time of the Croatian War ofIndependence (1989 - 1995). It includes work by ZoranJaćimović, Editor-in-Chief of the newspaper “Glas Slavonije”and winner of the Croatian Society of Journalists’ prize for thebest photographer in 1991/’92.24.03.2012. Satur day -27.05.2012. SundayIvo KerdićF-2, Muzej Slavonije Osijek, TrgSvetog Trojstva 6, tel. (+385-31)25 07 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr. In order to win aprized medal blood, sweat and tearsoften portray the dedication requiredto achieve such a reward. Well whatabout the work that goes behind making that prized medal?What about the craftsmanship required without the use oftoday’s technology? This is a dedication to a man who wasable to do exactly that; Ivo Kerdić (19.05.1881 - 27.10.1953),a great Croatian sculptor and medal maker who was renownedfor his creative work in small plastics art.Kerdić mastered his craft in Paris and Vienna and was flawlessin his efforts to engrave and carve. His hidden treasures willbe revealed to the public. A staggering 625 original workswill include medals, plaques, badges, reward medals, coinsand sculptures which were made between 1905 to 1953,encompassing 170 topics altogether.This rich opus not only gives the public an insight into theextraordinary art work Kerdić was able to produce, it alsoreveals a sign of the times, a glimpse at Zagreb and Croatianpublic life, its heroes and other topical themes of yesteryears. It reveals the production and development of smallplastics and medal making in a European context as wellas its significance.Kerdić has definitely left an imprint in his field, leaving behinda collection of riches to his oeuvre. Many of the works will bedisplayed for the very first time thus showcasing a vast andcredible career. It is one thing to earn a medal and another tomake it, Kerdić has finally earned the right to take his placeon the podium.Gastro Events27.08 SaturdayRakijadaVardarac. You haven’t tasted true alcohol if you haven’ttasted rakija. This bomb in a shot glass will ignite you!Made from plumbs and according to strict procedure, therewas not a Slavonian household which did not use the fruitfor either marmalade, or drink. Rakija played an importantrole in the past and was a must have when working in fields,sowing seeds, harvesting etc. And today, it is always presentat weddings and other special occasions. At rakija festivalheld in the village of Vardarac, see the process of makingtraditional rakija with sample tasting, traditional souvenirssales and more. You may need a taxi home!Fiš paprikašA traditional gastronomic specialty of the Slavonia andBaranja region made from at least two types of fish. Justso you know, catfish is a part of every fish paprikash aswell as sweet red pepper and dry hot red chilli peppers.This dish is best served with homemade noodles. Ifyou do not have the courage to indulge in this culinaryadventure on your own, come to Topolje where at the endof April or the beginning of May, the so-called Somijada(catfish fair) is held; it includes a Croatian fishermen’scompetition and a contest in making the most appetizingfish paprikash. So you can taste it first hand and from thebest. Draž Tourist Board (+385-31) 73 61 00, ZŠRUBaranje (+385-31) 70 11 63.03.12 Saturday - 04.12 SundayČvarak festKaranac, www.tzbaranje.hr. The expression get some porkon your fork truly comes to life with čvarci. This is a dish madeof baked pig’s skin for all the common folk, it is traditionallymade by cooking pieces of pancetta and fat meat in a metalcattle, during which the fat is melted and little pieces of meatand fat are baked and dried. The outcome is a multitude ofsmall golden coloured type semi salty pork balls which arekept dry and served independently, as an entrée, or sidedish. In Karanac is held Čvarak fest, where you will able totaste this specialty.Second half of SeptemberFishermen DaysBilje. To catch a fish you need bait. See how for years thefishermen in this region had carried out their work with anexhibition of old fishermen’s tools, different types of fishingrods specific to river bank fishing and also complicated fishtraps that contain sheer ancient wisdom. Local fishermenprepare fish meals in ways that are almost all but forgottenand the motto of the event is ‘to live in nature and notdestroy it’.Special events29.06 Wednesday - 16.07 SaturdayOsijek’s Cultural Summerljetokulture.osijek.hr. A feast of culture to get you warmedup for summer. This 3 week multicultural summer eventwill enable visitors to see a wide variety of performancesthroughout the various city locations. It includes theatre,performance art, exhibitions, literary and film programmes.Aside from local artists, this festival also hosts guests fromother parts of Croatia and abroad.30.07 Saturday - 07.08 SundayErnestinovo Sculptor ColonyErnestonovo. A regular event on the August calendar, thisis a jamboree for both Croatian and foreign Naive sculptorswho patriotically make their way to the Slavonian village ofErnestinovo to participate in a colony of wood sculpture. Thewonderful unique and naive style is seen at its best here.04.08 Thursday - 06.08 SaturdaySAFT 2011 (Summer Adventure Fest)saftfest.com. The hottest and biggest open air festival ofurban and electronic music in Slavonia and Baranja waits. Inthe festival’s 4th edition, numerous names from the worldmusic scene will strut their stuff including Gadjo (world famoushouse attraction), Transglobal underground, Dogo Argentino(one of the best funky live bands in Croatia), Dnox & Beckers,ĐakovoAstralis institucija, Dub Rebbelion, and Omer & Loki Massa.The event takes place on the left bank of the Drava Rivernear the catacombs and amphitheatre. The festival starts at21:00 and runs through to 06:00, except on Thursday when itfinishes at 05:00. Ticket prices: 100kuna presale, or 60kunafor a daily ticket. Those interested in camping will be chargeda 20kuna ticket per person (the number of tickets for campingis limited, you can apply for them at info@saftfest.com).Slama08.08 Monday - 14.08 SundaySlamaLug, www.slama.hr. Can straw and hay be used as an artmaterial? Well come along to the village of Lug in the Baranjaregion and be blown away by what is on display. This land artfestival proves that this is absolutely possible. By using suchnatural material in expressing their creativity, see how artistsat this art colony create fantastic sculptures. For potentialartists wishing to partake, apply at www.slama.hr.11.08 Thursday - 14.08 SundayMotorijadaBatina, Zeleni otok. Thesmell of petrol and gaswith smoke rising in theair is a sign that the 11thannual motorbike festivalis well and truly in full spin.A whopping 3000 puntersattend this event wi thmany enthusiasts fromneighbouring countries.Wish to indulge in the beerdrinking contest? Or tugof war or the rolling ofthe barrel? Why not? Itis fun for all and to top itoff popular Croatian rockband Psihomodo Pop willperform a live concert. Freeentry for bikers, otherwise it is 50kn for the entire event.17.08 Wednesday - 21.08 SundayPannonian Challenge XII2011.pannonian.org. It’s RaDIcAL! Extreme sports are thewords and mind you this traditional competition is being heldfor the 12th consecutive year. Each year it attracts moreand more viewers and participants. Enjoy the whacky, wildand crazy moves from the best Croatian and foreign riderson mountain bike, in-line roller blades, BMX and skate. As abonus, there are great parties organised each evening sothe fun never ends. The event will be held in the Skate Park(Srednješkolsko igralište D-2) and at the trim track acrossthe Drava River (C-1).Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

10 Culture & EventsWhere to stay1131.08 Wednesday - 03.09 SaturdayA Land Without Boundaries…and…www.zemljabezgranica.com. An annual event dedicatedto mother earth and all her natural beauty. Take part inworkshops and performances that are inspired by forestand water; over 3000 children will participate and a uniqueinstallation of children’s works entitled ‘Let’s keep the coloursof water’ will be presented. The event takes place along thepromenade towards the Osijek Hotel and around the greenarea next to Bijela Lađa.03.09 Saturday - 04.09 SundayPudarinaGajić. Pudarina is the old name for the custom of keepinggrapes in fermentation between the Feast of the Assumptionand Nativity of Virgin Mary. Would you believe that this customwith a holy touch holds many interesting events such asflirtation between girls and boys? Around the Assumption,girls would usually be accompanied by older women and wouldgo to the cellar in the village of Gajić. During the day, theirsinging and cheerful yelling would drive away all the animalsthat were intent on eating ripe grapes, whilst the rest of thetime was dedicated to embroidery. In the evenings, boyswould join the girls who had waited for them the entire dayand together with pipes playing and singing, new loves wereborn. During this event, wine makers in the area will open theircellar doors and will offer wine tasting to visitors.02.06.2012. Saturday - 03.06.2012. SundayBaranjski bećaracThis is a true ‘ethno festival’ with folklore dance and musicthe prime attraction. Step into the rhythm as folk ensemblespresent their audacious national costumes and age olddances. See the tools blacksmiths, tailors and other peopleused back in yonder as well as horse and carriage rides andlocal wine tasting. This summer event has spread beyond thevillage of Draž and includes Topolje, Gajić and Duboševica.09.06.2012. Saturday - 10.06.2012. SundaySurduk festivalThis international cultural event takes place in the transitionfrom spring to summer in June. It is here that wine makersand artists combine and offer an unforgettable experienceto visitors with concerts, ethno fairs, ethno workshops, winefairs and more… in the villages ofBeli Manastir, Kneževi Vinogradi,Zmajevac, Suza, Karanac andothers. Visit www.surduk.comfor more information or contactBaranja Tourist Board (+385-31) 70 20 80.15.06.2012. Friday -08.07.2012. SundayĐakovački vezoviĐakovo, www.tz-djakovo.hr. Are you fashionably inclinedor do you prefer a taste of tradition? Either way, ĐakovačkiCinemasCineplexx D-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 50a (AvenueMall), tel. (+385-31) 65 90 00, www.cineplexx.hr.QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.CineStar Osijek B-3, Svilajska 31a (PortanovaCenter), tel. 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.QOpen 14:00 - 22:30, Fri 14:00 - 24:30, Sat 11:00 -24:30, Sun 11:00 - 22:30.vezovi is a well known cultural event that caters for the above.It’s a folklore show that offers visitors the opportunity tosee a range of diversely handcrafted and richly decoratedtraditional costumes. It attracts folklore groups from theSlavonija and Baranja region, as well as from other parts ofCroatia and abroad.Shrove Tuesday 2012.KakasutesVardarac. Pagan customs have been revived again in theVardarac village. Masked roosters tour around the village andgather gifts, mainly chicken eggs. They have the right to catcheverything that moves in any backyard so hosts commonlylock their chickens and give gifts to the roosters instead. In thecentre of the village a contest called ‘the beating of a rooster’is held where girls with their eyes tied up have to beat-up arooster with a stick. The winner is a girl who strikes the roosterwith her eyes tied up and as a gift she gets everything thatthe roosters were given throughout the village. All the giftsare gathered and they make a dish out of it at the dinner partywhere everyone eats and dances. Cockadoodle do!Pentecost 2012.The Spring March of Ljelje through GorjaniGorjani. Haunting! Spooky! Hmmm…According to tradition,the so-called queens of the village Gorjani in the Osijek-BaranjaTheatresThe Spring March of Ljelje through Gorjaniregion go around the village and perform a ritual made ofspecial songs as well as their famous dance of swords.This custom is called the Yearly spring march of queens or‘Ljelje’ which dates back to the beginning of the last century.It has been put on the UNESCO list of non-material culturalheritage.Children’s Theatre Branko Mihaljević (Dječjekazalište Branka Mihaljevića) H-3, Trg banaJosipa Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-31) 50 14 85/(+385-31) 53 07 66, djecje.kazaliste@os.t-com.hr, www.djecje-kazaliste.hr.Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodnokazalište) E-2, Županijska 9, tel. (+385-31) 22 0700, www.hnk-osijek.hr.Symbol keyP Air conditioningO CasinoT Child friendlyR InternetF Fitness centreK RestaurantD SaunaA Credit cards acceptedH Conference facilitiesU Facilities for the disabledL Guarded parkingG Non-smoking rooms6 Animal friendlyC Swimming poolUpmarketOsijek E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 03 33,fax (+385-31) 23 04 44, info@hotelosijek.hr, www.hotelosijek.hr. This hotel has actually been around for27 years, but the facelift it recently received has made itlook brand-spanking-new. The gleaming glass of the hoteldominates the skyline of the Winter Harbor, and inside thehotel offers the services you expect from any quality fourstarhotel: a fitness center, wireless Internet, catering andconference organization, and on and on. There are somehotels closer to the center, but for comfort and luxury,including a prime location for Osijek’s Promenade, this isyour place. Q147 rooms (27 singles €117, 113 doubles€123 - 170, 6 suites €182 - 216, 1 Presidential Suite €446).PTHAR6UIFLGBKDS hhhhZoo D-1, Sjevernodravska obala bb, Tvrđavica, tel.(+385-31) 22 99 22, fax (+385-31) 22 99 11, zoo-hotel@zoo-hotel.com, www.zoo-hotel.com. The Hotel Zoo, acrossthe river next to the city zoo, is painted the color of a limeflavoredsports drink, the only shade you won’t find in jungleor savannah. But inside, it’s wood, marble and animal skin.Each room, including the dining room, is furnished with apredator or prey theme, leopard- or zebra-print, including yourfuzzy slippers. The motif is attractive, and many rooms havea view of the city across the river. The restaurant seats 250people and can be partitioned for banquets and conferences.One room is handicapped-accessible. Q18 rooms (2 singles460kn, 15 doubles 660kn, 1 apartments 710 - 810kn).PHARULGKW hhhhOld-school charmWaldinger E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 25 0450, fax (+385-31) 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www.waldinger.hr. Housed in a handsome Art Nouveau buildinga few steps away from the Cathedral, this small-sized andintimate hotel conjures up the atmosphere of nineteenthcenturyOsijek’s belle-epoque. Plush red-and-gold carpets andsolid dark-brown furnishings provide an opulent feel, and eachroom comes with a reasonable amount of desk space anda fair-sized bathtub. Q16 rooms (1 singles €90, 14 doubles€131, 1 apartments €165). PHARFLGBKDWhhhhMid-rangeDrava D/E-3, Ivana Gundulića 25a, tel. (+385-31) 2505 00, fax (+385-31) 25 05 03, drava1@optinet.hr,www.hotel-drava.com. A small hotel off Gundulićeva, theDrava is close to a tram stop and is a short walk from themain square. Understated modern décor in the foyer givesway to skylit halls and brightly-colored, comfy rooms. Bedsare comfortably sized: single rooms have double beds andsome doubles have queen-size beds. A family might like oneof the business rooms, each of which offers a pull-out couchin a separate seating area. Breakfast is served in the dining/reception area. Rooms have satellite TV. Laundry serviceis available. Q11 rooms (4 singles €56, 7 doubles €84).PAR6LGXCW hhhMillenium G-3, Kralja P. Svačića 12, tel. (+385-31) 5313 30, fax (+385-31) 53 13 31, info@hotel-millenium.hr, www.hotel-millenium.hr. Intended primarily for businesspeople, the Millennium offers neat, simply-furnished roomswith satellite TV, a dining room and adjoining café-bar if youneed a pick-me-up after a long trip. If that isn’t enough,some rooms have bathtubs with massage-jets so you canrelax before heading out for a night on the town. Q17 rooms(4 singles 340kn, 10 doubles 560kn, 3 apartments 790 -890kn). PHAULW hhhSilver G-3, Martina Divalta 84, tel. (+385-31) 58 2535, fax (+385-31) 58 25 36, hotel@hotel-silver.hr,www.hotel-silver.hr. A new three-star hotel located just afew minutes’ walk from the city center, Hotel Silver offers awhole slew of amenities like guarded car park and meetingfacilities. As an added bonus, a night’s stay won’t breakthe bank. Located a stone’s throw from shopping centers,sports and swimming facilities and the football stadium, thisis a fine choice for accommodation near the center. Q21rooms (3 singles 190 - 390kn, 18 doubles 380 - 560kn).POHAULGKW hhhVila Ariston E-3, A.K.Miošića 6, tel. (+385-31) 25 1351, fax (+385-31) 25 13 50, ariston.d.o.o@os.t-com.hr, www.hotelaristonosijek.hr. A residential street roundthe corner from the train station is the tranquil location forthis rather classy small-hotel hideaway. The rooms - each ofwhich is named after a flower and comes with an appropriatelypastelly colour scheme - come with parquet floors, reprofurniture, deep sofas, and decently-proportioned desks. Themassage nozzles in the shower units should help to ease thestress of a day spent pacing the mean streets of easternSlavonia. Q10 rooms (10 singles €75, 10 doubles €105).PTHAFLGKDW hhhBudgetCentral E-2, Trg Ante Starčevića 6, tel. (+385-31) 2833 99, fax (+385-31) 28 38 91, info@hotel-central-os.hr,www.hotel-central-os.hr. The Hotel Central certainly livesup to its name. This comfortable hotel offers simple, clean andaffordable rooms right on the main square. The friendly staffcan even help you rent a bike from the hotel’s own service andsend you in the right direction for a relaxing day trip aroundOsijek. Prices are per room. Q32 rooms (16 singles €47, 16doubles €55 - 74). A6LGBW hhMursa F-3, Bartola Kašića 2a, tel. (+385-31) 22 4900, fax (+385-31) 20 76 30, mursa@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Hotel Mursa’s prime attribute is its location. It’s just afive-minute walk to the hotel from the train station. Once youarrive, you’ll be greeted by a massive hotel full of small, yetneat and functional rooms. Many of the rooms have smallbalconies that offer an excellent view of the city, with thefortress and the river just in the distance. The large diningarea hosts breakfast in the morning from 07:00 to 09:00.All of these elements combine to make this hotel one of thebest choices for reliable, budget accommodation in Osijek.Prices are per person per night. Q125 rooms (50 singles€46, 70 doubles €39, 2 suites €82, 3 Presidental Suites€122). PHA6ULGBK hhwww.inyourpocket.comOsijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

12 Where to stayRestaurants13Pansion ComfortPansion Fitea H-3, Srijemska 27, tel. (+385-31) 50 8508/(+385-) 098 30 93 65, 098 185 35 21, fax (+385-31) 50 75 78, fitea@fitea.hr, www.fitea.hr. “Pansions”are small hotels with a homely feel, Gilmore Girls style. This isfamily run, newly built, located near the Gradski vrt Stadium,and about 1.5 km from the old center Tvrđa. It consists ofrooms that are modernly designed with free wireless internetconnection. There’s a restaurant and bar on the groundfloor, guests can choose from bed and breakfast, full or halfboard. Prices are per person. Q12 rooms (4 singles 278kn, 4doubles 456kn, 4 triples 534kn). PALBKW hhhPansionPansion Regina E-2, Županijska 6, tel. (+385-31) 2022 03/(+385-) 098 969 95 90, fax (+385-31) 20 2030, regina.osijek@gmail.com, www.reginaosijek.hr.This may sound unconventional as this B&B is positionedinside the backyard of a peaceful family house, but don’t letthat deter you as staying here is definitely worthwhile. Awayfrom the noise yet in the city center, each room carries thename of a flower and the modern interior has been designedwith taste and care. Begin each new day with a fine buffetbreakfast which will make you feel at home, and will ensurefor a pleasant and unforgettable stay. Q3 rooms (3 singles360kn, 3 doubles 500kn). PJALGW hhhPansion Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31)25 04 50, fax (+385-31) 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www.waldinger.hr. Intended to cater to the needsof businesspeople, Pansion Waldinger is a charming,modern accommodation located directly behind the HotelWaldinger. All rooms are equipped with telephone andinternet connection for those who need to stay in touchand room service is available from 07:00 to 23:00. All thataside, the true amenity is the location. Stone walls create apeaceful,green garden right in the centre of the city that lendsa comfortable, out-in-the-country vibe to all of the rooms. Q7rooms (1 singles €41, 5 doubles €61, 1 apartments €82).PARUFLGBKDW hhhPrivate accommodationMaksimilian F-2, Franjevačka 12, tel. (+385-31) 49 7567/(+385-) 091 252 38 34, info@maksimilian.hr, www.maksimilian.hr. Get comfy in the heart of the Baroque citycenter, this hotel has maintained that rustic historical feelwhilst offering full comfort accommodation in the roomswith private bathrooms and TV in each. In case you’re justpassing by as part of your cycling route, there is also a roomfor keeping bicycles plus free internet connection in the jointhalls. Q8 rooms (2 singles €28 - 39, 4 doubles €43 - 54, 1triples €65, 1 Family Room €76). PAGW hhhPrenočište Helena E-3, Vinkovačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091461 90 47/(+385-) 091 461 90 44, ivana@prehrana.net, www.prehrana.net. Pleasant and simple! A great littlegetaway which is in town and has affordable prices with eitherprivate or shared bathrooms as part of the accommodationpackages. In addition, the motel includes the PrehranaRestaurant where they serve breakfast. Prices are per person.Q40 rooms (2 singles 107 - 157kn, 30 doubles 107 - 150kn,8 triples 107 - 150kn). AULKWRitam C-2, Kozjačka 76, tel. (+385-31) 31 03 10/(+385-) 091 782 54 24, fax (+385-31) 31 03 12, hotelritam@hotel-ritam.hr,www.hotel-ritam.hr. Located in aresidential neighborhood near the Hippodrome, the HotelRitam has an advanced aerobics studio and table tennisand you can cool down after in the coffee bar. Spacious,simple rooms have single beds and satellite TV. Breakfastis served in the dining room. Q9 rooms (1 singles 291 -359kn, 6 doubles 392 - 487kn, 3 triples 490 - 549kn).PTAFLXW hhhSmještaj Osijek D-2, Adolfa Waldingera 12, tel. (+385-)091 300 70 70, fax (+385-31) 36 90 19, info@smjestajosijek.com,www.smjestaj-osijek.com. Located in the citycentre surrounding the Ante Starčević Square, this is part ofan old building in the Secessionist style where the interioris modern and has a minimalistic edge. Its simplicity andcombination of warm colors doesn’t leave you indifferent,in-fact it’s rather inviting actually. Q3 rooms (2 singles300kn, 2 doubles 500kn, 1 Family Room 750 - 950kn).PJA6XW hhhhVilla Sveti Rok D-2, Svetog Roka 13, tel. (+385-31)31 04 90, fax (+385-31) 31 04 99, villa.sveti.rok@os.tcom.hr.Hospitality is the keyword at this cozy guesthouse,lovingly decorated with your comfort in mind each step ofthe way. There are seven rooms in all, just enough to ensurethe proprietors have the right amount of time to make youfeel right at home. Each room has a hydro-massage bath toprepare you for an excellent night’s sleep on a real woodenbed, complete with a comfy mattress that could tame eventhe most frightful insomniac. When you’re up and readyto get back to business, the wireless internet connectioncomes in handy, as well as a power breakfast in the tastefullydecorated bistro. Q7 rooms (5 doubles €99, 1 triples €118,1 apartments €139). PA6LDW hhhhHostelTufna F-2, Franje Kuhača 10/I, tel. (+385-31) 21 5020/(+385-) 098 55 34 44, fax (+385-31) 21 50 21,intuit@os.t-com.hr, www.tufna.hr. Backpackers andthose who wish to mingle with the locals will find this isa great place to stay. Get a sense of history as it’s thefirst hostel located in the historical, Baroque center ofOsijek called Tvrđa and it sits above the club of the samename. The hostel is a mere 15minute walk from the citycenter, close to Osijek’s main museums and right in theheart of the jolly night life and entertainment. Hook upwith friends worldwide as they’ve recently installed a freeinternet connection. Q 28 dorm beds, 107kn per person.PAR6GWSymbol keyP Air conditioningE Live musicT Child friendlyG Non-smoking areasO CasinoR InternetA Credit cards acceptedS Take awayU Facilities for the disabledL Guarded parking6 Animal friendlyTraditionalAlas F-3, Reisnerova 12a, tel. (+385-31) 21 30 32.Alas is local dialect for fisherman, and this friendly littlerestaurant on a residential street corner is the place to trylocal freshwater fish dishes. Speciality of the house is perkeltod soma (a deliciously spicy paprika casserole with hugechunks of scaly catfish floating around in it), usually servedwith home-made noodles smothered in cheesy sauce. Justin case you get carried away, bright orange bibs are providedto prevent you from dribbling it all down your chest. QOpen11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. (50 - 90kn). PALBGradski podrum E-2, Županijska 8 (Hotel Waldinger),tel. (+385-31) 21 20 79, www.waldinger.hr. A truesurprise in the heart of town. This national restaurant issituated in a cellar; it’s located at the rear of the WaldingerHotel and dishes up traditional Croatian cuisine. Red bricks,wooden beams, an interior that displays attention to detailalong with hospitable staff make for a warm atmosphere forwining and dining. Q September - June Open 11:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun. (25 - 85kn). PAGKaraka F-3, Kneza Trpimira 16, tel. (+385-31) 20 3400, www.kubo.hr. Owned by the same people as PastaPizza Bar El Paso, Karaka offers charcoal-grilled variations onCroatian cuisine, such as chicken legs stuffed with cheese andham, in traditionally large portions. The restaurant is brightand airy, with an ample terrace heated with gas heaters inthe winter. They offer a kids’ menu and a breakfast menu, too,if you’re tired of the meat-and-cheese platter at your hotel.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (30 - 60kn). PALGBXKod Javora H-2, Donjodravska obala 14, tel. (+385-31) 50 69 50. Nestled right on the Drava River, this fishrestaurant is a bit off the beaten path but the protectedterrace, which allows for outdoor seating year round, andthe quality menu both make it worth the trip. The stars ofthe menu are fish specialities like fish paprikas and riverfish, but there are some standout meat dishes that warranta try also. Your meal will just beg to be complemented by aCroatian wine from the solid wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.(35 - 75kn). PALGBXKod Ruže F-2, Kuhačeva 25a, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 2060 66. According to old records, Benedikt Muller bought“the house at Ruža’s” in the Tvrđa for 900 forint in 1758. KodRuže is owned by the same family as the pizza restaurantStrossmayer, and they’ve stocked it full of character: oldphotographs and knicknacks, heavy wood tables, and amenu full of Slavonian favorites. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun10:00 - 16:00. (55 - 135kn). PTAGBKompa D-1, Splavarska 1, tel. (+385-31) 37 57 55/(+385-) 091 501 15 96, www.restorankompa.hr. Locatedalong the right-hand side of the Drava River bank, this eateryhas kept its long tradition going since 1971 and is deemeda gem for family gatherings. The menu comprises of a widespectrum of gastronomic meals, especially the cookedsmoked pork shank served with cooked salty potatoes, sourcabbage or baked beans. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. ClosedSunday during the winter. Closed August 1 - 16. (30 - 75kn).GBXSlavonska kuća F-2, Kamila Firingera 26a, Tvrđa,tel. (+385-31) 36 99 55. This is where you get your fullSlavonian experience. Don’t be surprised if someone at thenext table asks the waiter to turn up the tamburica musicand then sings along. Freshwater fish are prominent on themenu and mounted on the wall, but you’ll also find plenty ofother traditional dishes perfect after a long day plowing thefields or hiking across them: venison with onions and paprika,čobanac, švargl (pig’s head meat, skin, ears, tongue, heart,boiled in a stomach and pressed into sausage - yum). Butdon’t expect pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JulyOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Closed August 1 - 15. (35 -65kn). PAGBXInternationalBijelo plavi F-3, Martina Divalta 8, tel. (+385-31) 5710 00. If you ask a local for a dining-out recommendation,you’re likely to hear about this place. Bijelo-plavi is Croatianfor “blue-white,” a nod to the colors of FC Osijek, whose homegames are played just a short walk from the restaurant.Homemade bread is whipped-up fresh everyday and there’sa menu full of international and Croatian specialities. QOpen10:00 - 23:00. (20 - 80kn). PALBGalija D/E-2, Gornjodravska obala bb (on the river-boat),tel. (+385-31) 28 35 00, galija@kubo.hr, www.galija.kubo.hr. The restaurant’s motto is “A view that has noprice.” But you have to search a little to find the restaurantitself, up-river from the Zimska Luka, past the derelict building,on the boat moored on the river. While stuffing yourself onthe grill offerings and enjoying tasty risottos, you can watchthe people jogging on the promenade across the river.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 145kn).PTAGBLumiere E-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera 8,tel. (+385-31) 20 10 88, lumiere@os.t-com.hr, www.lumiere.hr. Located at the lower level of the Urania Cinemawith a pleasant interior and two big screens showing scenesfrom old black and white movies. It is well set with a menuthat is regularly changed which is refreshing, and yet it catersto just about every eater’s desires from pasta, meats andveggies to succulent sweets. Friendly staff and great prices!QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). PAGBXWMađarska retfala C-1, Šandora Petefija 22, tel.(+385-31) 30 22 43. A visit to this restaurant shouldn’tbe accompanied by expectations about trappings likeclassiness or refinement, but you can look forward to somereasonably-priced Hungarian specialities, such as iš-fišpaprikaš. Yes, you read that right: iš-fiš paprikaš. It’s astew made in the same way as locally famous fish paprikaswith rooster substituted for fish. Try it with a side of therestaurant’s homemade pasta. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 15 - August 15.(25 - 60kn). PALGMali podrum D-2, Dubrovačka 13, tel. (+385-31) 36 7048/(+385-) 091 151 57 19, www.festetics.hr. A smallrestaurant in the city centre with an intimate and homelyatmosphere reminiscent of the classic Austro-Hungarianstyle! The interior is dominated with brick and wood workwhich is enriched by different metallic details and objects;and what gives the restaurant its unique look is its woodenfireplace. The menu includes meat and fish dishes and thehouse specialties include tuna and beef steak. Q Open11:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (25 - 220kn). PAGMüller F-2, Trg J.Križanića 9, tel. (+385-31) 20 47 70,restoran@muller.hr, www.muller.hr. Handily situated onthe Tvrđa sightseeing route, Müller will sort you out with prettyOsijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

14 RestaurantsRestaurantsCAFéS15much everything from the Croatian culinary repertoire. Choosebetween grilled steaks, Germanic schnitzels, and pan-friedlocal smuđ (pike-perch). Grilled fish and scampi from theAdriatic are also on the menu, although they probably spenta few days in the freezing compartment before arriving at yourtable. The house-plants in the main dining room add a homelytouch, and there’s a slightly plusher upstairs chamber suitablefor wining and dining business clients. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.(25 - 120kn). PAGBXRestoran Club Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8 (HotelWaldinger), tel. (+385-31) 21 46 71, www.waldinger.hr. What separates this restaurant from others is that ithas its own wine cellar with an assortment second to none.The international cuisine, classy interior and window throughwhich one can see the chef whizzing up his magical delightsadd special touches, and the restaurant has a reputationfor quality that meets the expectations of more demandingguests. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 15 -August 31. PJAGLambPlavi Podrum C-2, Čvrsnićka 4, tel. (+385-31) 3042 22, restoran@ravlic.com, www.ravlic.com. Not toodistant from the city centre, lamb lovers ought to be wettingtheir appetites as it is prepared in various ways here. Besidesthe cosy ambience, guests can enjoy their meal in a decoratedroof-covered terrace with a view of the big barbecue grill androast on spit. Fresh lamb and other meat specialties areserved daily with 70 types of wines from all parts of Croatiaalso on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 75kn).PALGBXPizzaAs E-2, Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-31) 21 25 00. Warmcolors, cushion-tossed wooden benches and a barrel-vaultedbrick ceiling make this a cosy location in which to tuck into a broad range of pizzas, risottos and pastas. The thincrustpies are generous in size and come with reasonablyauthentic Italian-style toppings. There are some inspiredlocal concoctions as well - the Osiječka pizza, liberally coveredwith slices of spicy Slavonian sausage, soon had our gastricjuices gurgling. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.(20 - 58kn). PAVGBXEl paso E/F-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera bb, tel.(+385-) 098 20 50 77. The name is suggestive of south ofthe border and the location is suggestive of fish, but neitheris really to be found and it doesn’t seem to matter all thatmuch. Right along the Promenade, look for the boat and hitthe deck for pizza and pasta dishes. There’s a kid’s menuthat features kid-size portions of ćevapčići or turkey withfries. The temptation to shout, “anchors aweigh!” was real,but we don’t think that boat’s going anywhere. QOpen 08:00- 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. (30 - 56kn). AVBKuhača F-2, Kuhačeva 8a, tel. (+385-31) 20 86 86.Located at the place of the former Sisters of the Holy CrossMonastery, inside the Osijek Tvrđa, you will find a true pizzeriacalled ‘kuhača’. They have 42 types of pizza, sandwiches,salads as well as a true Slavonian breakfast on offer. If youever find yourself nearby, make sure you check out this place.It’s worth the visit! QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00- 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (18 - 74kn). PAVGBXSebastian G-3, Sjenjak 59, tel. (+385-31) 57 09 04,denarius@hi.t-com.hr. If you happen to be in the area of thefootball stadium and feel those first, faint inklings of hunger,make a bee-line for this pizzeria. It’s well-known around townfor churning out quality pies. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun17:00 - 23:00. (20 - 36kn). PAVBStrossmayer C-2, Josipa Jurja Srossmayera 133, tel.(+385-31) 37 58 88, bkocsis@inet.hr, www.omniaosijek.hr.On the street of the same name, this attractive ArtNouveau-style restaurant offers up pizza and barbecue just astone’s throw from the main square. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (20 - 65kn). PABChineseConfucius E-2, Kapucinska 34, tel. (+385-31) 21 01 04.Scouring manuscripts and quotes of the wisdom of Confuciusfor mention of this dependable Chinese restaurant will leadyou nowhere, but it has operated in the same place for years,so apparently they’re doing something right. If you have acraving for some Chinese, this is a decent place to grab some.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (25 - 90kn). PAVGBXSFast foodBreskva E-2, Lorenza Jägera 6, tel. (+385-31) 2049 05. Problem: you need a quick lunch at a good price.Solution: Peach! This bistro at the center of the townhas light and delicious baked goods on offer, or you canchoose something hot off the grill like ćevapčići or optfor some fried calamari. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. ClosedSun. (10 - 37kn). NBK topu F-2, Fakultetska 1, tel. (+385-31) 21 0904. When you’re sightseeing in the Fortress and need aquick sandwich to keep you going, this is the best choice.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (12 - 76kn). BMakedonka H-3, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel.(+385-31) 50 34 03/(+385-) 099 212 59 96, www.makedonka.hr. Fast food revellers adhere as this dinerhas a history of tradition and quality. Burgers and topclass ćevapčići are what bring Osijek meat eaters backfor more. Positioned in the Lower Town and just out ofthe city centre . QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (16 - 36kn).PGBSMcDonald’s E-2, Županijska 7, tel. (+385-31) 2145 07. Not every meal can be a luxuriant, home-cookedaffair. Sometimes it’s simply necessary to give in tothe twin temptations of convenience and, well, frenchfries. And did I mention those sinfully yummy SmartiesMcFlurries? Osijek’s McDonald’s has the distinction ofbeing located on the ground floor of the National Theatre,a curious location for a fast food restaurant but extremelyconvenient nonetheless. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun09:00 - 24:00. ABPink Panther E-2, Lorenza Jägera 5, tel. (+385-31)20 11 19. It takes a little effort to get down the steps intothe Pink Panther’s lair, but the tasty sandwiches, burgersand salads at affordable prices make the journey worth it.Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 23:00,Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). VHong Kong H-2, J.J.Strossmayera 41, tel. (+385-31)77 82 36/(+385-) 091 115 00 08. Craving Asian! Thenpop into this restaurant which is adorned with the typicaldécor one would find in a Chinese restaurant. Standardmeals at standard prices can be expected and the addedbonuses include its terrace and the restaurant car park alongDubrovačka street. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 119kn).PALGBXOut of townBaranjska kuća Kolodvorska 99, Karanac, tel. (+385-31) 72 01 80, baranjska-kuca@net.hr, www.baranjskakuca.com.One of the delights of visiting a continental cityis the chance to check out some local cuisine and one couldhardly ask for a better place to accomplish that goal thanthis ethnic restaurant. Several local specialities are preparedto perfection and come highly recommended, including fišpaprikaš, a hearty fish stew, and šaran u rašljama which isskewered carp cooked over an open fire. Selected eveningssee live Roma music performances. With the excellent foodand atmosphere, there will be some competition for tables.Make sure you call and reserve in advance. QOpen 11:00 -22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. (35 - 80kn).PALGBXJosić Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-31) 73 4410, restoran@josic.hr, www.josic.hr. A surduk is a cutin a mountain where wine cellars are positioned beneathsoil helping maintain a constant temperature for storingwines. This unique ambience along with an excellent blend oftradition and the contemporary leaves a lasting impressionon each and every guest. Highly recommended! Q Open13:00 - 21:00, Thu 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. AGBKormoran Podunavlje bb, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 30 99.The untouched natural surroundings are lush with a big park,promenade, and green area for children to play in. If you can,get a table on the spacious outdoor terrace where you canenjoy the traditional specialties of the Baranja region preparedaccording to old recipes. Try carp roasted on wooden sticks,cat fish perkelt, fish paprikash and more... QOpen 11:00 -22:00. (30 - 95kn). PALGBXKovač čarda Glavna 215, Suza, tel. (+385-31) 73 3101/(+385-) 098 37 20 70. We heard about an excellentHungarian restaurant with scrumptious food and an easy-tofindlocation and decided to put both parts of that claim to thetest. Standing right on the main road in Suza, the restaurant’slocation really is prime. And as for the food, apparently manyother people had already been convinced about the qualityof the fare, evidenced by the numerous awards hangingon their walls. If we had an award to give for the tastiestfish paprikas in the area, this might well be the winner. Thewelcoming staff deserves an award for friendliness, as well.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 65kn).PALGBXDavos E-2, Ribarska 1. Smack bang in between theEsseker Shopping Centre, the main city square, the DravaRiver and Promenade, Davos is the most popular gatheringplace for young people and offers a great choice of cocktailsand ice cream. Live music on Saturdays. QOpen 07:00- 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. July - September Open 07:00 -24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JBKavana Osijek E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 0356, www.hotelosijek.hr. Weekend mornings see Osijek’sPromenade filling up with loads of stylish café-goers relaxingand re-hashing the events of the night before. The epicenter ofthe chatting and chilling seems to be this trendy café, whoseroomy terrace is the perfect place to grab an outdoor tableand catch a view of the river and the harbor. Bring a jacket orjumper in case the mid-morning sun is obscured by the hoteltowering up over the terrace, or retreat inside to warmerclimes in the equally comfy inside seating. QOpen 07:00 -23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PAGBXKavana Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 2504 70, www.waldinger.hr. Right on the main square nextto the lobby of the Hotel Waldinger, this classically-decoratedcafe is one of the best spots in town to enjoy a coffee. QOpen07:00 - 23:00. PJABNew York E-3, Stjepana Radića 22. This is an ideal placefor daily coffee or for a warm up before heading out to someof Osijek’s clubs. A favourite amongst locals, it is situatednear the Economic and Law University on Radićeva Street.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PBXNo. 22 E-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II 1. Positioned next to the‘cathedral’ so you’re close to holy ground, No.22 is one of themost popular places in which to settle down for a city-centrechin-wag. An unpretentious mixture of guests of all agessimply sit on the terrace, thus making you feel comfortableand welcomed. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:00 - 24:00,Sun 08:00 - 23:00. JBSan Francisco Coffee House E-2, Radićeva 12, tel.(+385-) 091 986 46 76, denistensek@sfch.hr, www.sfch.hr. A contemporary coffee bar that gives initiates ofthe caffeine cult pretty much everything they could wish forin the espresso, latte and mocha line, and succeeds in beinga stylish hangout into the bargain. You can perch in 60sstylebucket chairs or lounge around in white settees, whilegazing at photographs of the Golden Gate bridge and othersunshine-state landmarks. The muffins and cookies makea nice change from the ‘you-can-have-any-cake-you-like-aslong-as-it’s-a-strudel’approach of most other Croatian cafés.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNBXWŠetač E-2, Trg slobode 2. The café carries the name of oneof Osijek’s city landmarks, ‘The Walker’, better known as thesculpture of the Croatian writer August Cesarec. Surroundedby apartment blocks, the figure of the writer stands proudin-front of the café which has a homey cosy atmosphere andis pleasant for coffee, whether it be indoors or out on theterrace. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PBTrica E-2, Lučki prilaz 2, tel. (+385-31) 77 84 14. Coffeeis the glue that holds Croatian society together and the socialscene of Osijek is no exception. The city has several excellentspots that are perfect for having a morning or afternoon kavaand this well-known spot, located virtually on the Promenade,is one of them. The terrace is one of the hot spots to be insummer. When the mercury drops, venture down the stairsand enjoy your coffee inside, hidden away from that briskwind blowing across the river. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. NGBXwww.inyourpocket.comOsijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

16 NightlifeWhat to see17So you are out to boogie all night long and in Osijek, youreally have two major locations. The biggest crowdscongregate at the Promenade along the Drava River andat the Tvrđa, especially in winter. Either way, both venuesproduce a great atmosphere and ought to warm yourhearty disco desires.BarsAmsterdam E-2, Radićeva 18. Of all the bars alongRadićeva this is the classiest and the cosiest. Subduedlighting, wooden furnishings, the basement location and anunobtrusive musical soundtrack make it very easy to settlein here for a quick drink and not get up again for hours. Goodrange of bottled beers behind the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.PBXBrooklyn E-2, Šetalište kardinala F.Šepera 8F. Oneof the fine bars set along the Drava Riverfront next to theOsijek Hotel. It has modern, minimalistic furniture but moreimportantly, the two terraces are perfectly positioned facingthe Drava River and provide some cool views. QOpen 07:30- 24:00. PBXWExcalibur F-2, Franje Krežme 22. The name says it all,walk into this medieval dungeon which is packed with novelgoodies dating back to the times when chivalry was honor.Take the time to order a drink whilst relishing the swords,shields, flails and other items on the walls. Iron chandeliers,wooden floors and doors add to the ambiance. Rock musicis the go here and it’s a good place for warm-up drinks beforecontinuing your night out! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 -24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. BGeneral von Becker’s F-2, Franje Kuhača 13. Lovelybarrel-vaulted space on Tvrđa’s central square. Thereproduction Baroque prints on the walls make it somethingof a museum to Habsburg-era nostalgia, although mostpatrons are too busy slugging back bottles of Karlovačko tonotice. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat07:30 - 04:00, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. BK E-3, Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 38a, tel. (+385-) 09884 30 78. Rather than fuss with choosing a new name afterchanging locations, Osijek’s famous Kesten Bar whittled itsname down to a single letter. The location close to the trainstation hasn’t interfered with the normal regimen of relaxedrockers hanging around the bar ‘til around 23:00, when theyventure out for some wilder nightlife around the city. QOpen08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. PNBXPandur Kuhačeva 5. A night bar /club in Tvrđa with aninterior of wood and bricks. Depending on your mood, choosethe upper level which is ideal for relaxing and sipping drinksor venture down to the cellar transformed into a club whereyou can listen to mostly commercial and mainstream music.QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. BXSiesta E-2, Petra Preradovića 3. Positioned right acrossthe Preradovićeva Promenade and inside an old buildingwith high ceilings, this café bar is decorated in the moreclassical style. Take a seat in the cosy leather armchairswhere besides sipping on coffee you can enjoy the jazznights, poetry nights or even short theatre shows which areorganized from time to time. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun08:00 - 24:00. EBAutomat ClubsAutomat klub Osijek II G-3, Martina Divalta 84,tel. (+385-31) 58 23 77, www.lutrija.hr. QOpen09:00 - 01:00.Merkur Automat Klub E-2, Ribarska 4 (EssekerCentre), tel. (+385-31) 63 60 57. QOpen 00:00 -24:00. JZanzibar E-3, Gundulićeva 14. A specific interior withAfrican ornaments, wooden furniture, a big spacious cosyterrace, popular music, a favourite spot for young peopleespecially when going out on Friday nights. QOpen 08:00 -23:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PNBXClubsBastion F-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog bb, nightclub.bastion@gmail.com, www.we-love-music.hr. And so youenter a club and just like any other you listen to music or evensee a DJ perform. But Bastion has an added bonus: as it islocated in one of the Tvrđa towers, it has an open summerterrace with great views of the Drava River. Its three barsand music tunes will have you dancing till dawn. Great vibe!Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. BBig Ben F-2, Franje Markovića 1. It might not be Londonbut positioned on the main Tvrđa square, it’s a knockoutwhen it comes to relaxing and sipping a cup of coffee duringthe day or spending the night out! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. PBXWKlub Mini Teatar F-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog bb - VIIIBastion, Tvrđa, mini.teatar@gmail.com. The beer is cheapand the music is loud. It might be punk, it might be rock. QOpen Thu, Fri and Sat 18:00 - 02:00. EGOxygen Club A-1/2, Županijska 7. You do not need anoxygen tank or mask to get in dear readers but you do needsome enthusiasm and cheer. Located in the city centre,between the Croatian National Theatre and Ante StarčevićSquare, this is an ideal place for the mid 20’s and upper crowd.By the way, jazz music is on Wednesdays from 9 pm onwards.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PJGBXTufna F-2, Franje Kuhača 10, tel. (+385-31) 21 50 20/(+385-) 098 55 34 44, intuit@os.t-com.hr, www.tufna.hr. This club recently made its debut at the site of the oldPosh club and despite its recent opening, you can rely on itto be one of the best night spots in the city. Provided youare more than 21 years of age, you can roll in to check outtwo floors of Osijek locals getting down to disco and top 40on the ground floor while digging the unique black and whitedécor, or the basement and its polychromatic color schemeand electro beats. Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri 22:00 -05:00, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PAGPubsOld Bridge Pub F-2, Franje Kuhača 4, tel. (+385-31) 2116 11, info@oldbridgepub.hr. This is cleaner, brighter andposher than any of the old pubs we mis-spent our youths in,but the combination of classy brown furniture and stainedglasswindows create the right atmosphere in which to slurpdown handsome quantities of ale, with Erdinger, Stella,Kilkenny and Guiness on tap, and a fair few bottled beers too.Garners a healthy cross section of Osijek’s going-out crowd,with everyone from bohemians to business types cramminground the bar at weekends. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Thu,Fri, 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.PAGBXWSt Patrick’s Pub F-2, Kuhačeva 15, tel. (+385-31) 2052 02. Extremely agreeable café-bar-pub on the main Tvrđasquare, with comfy green leather booths, Irish beer advertsthat look charming rather than just plain predictable, and ahuge outdoor terrace that is the ideal place to sun yourselfonce the weather begins to warm up in spring. The amount ofChelsea FC memorabilia hanging beside the bar is alarminglyinexplicable, but everyone is entitled to their eccentricities.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 -02:00, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. PABXWTourist informationiGornji Grad Tourist InformationCentre E-2, Županijska 2, tel.(+385-31) 20 37 55, grad-osijek@os.t-com.hr, www.tzosijek.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.Closed Sun. October - June 30 Open07:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Tvrđa Tourist Information Centre F-2, TrgSv.Trojstva 5, tel. (+385-31) 21 01 20. Every firstSaturday in the month open 09:00 -13:00. QOpen10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Osijek-Baranja County Tourist Board E-2,Kapucinska 40, tel. (+385-31) 21 48 52, info@tzosbarzup.hr, www.tzosbarzup.hr. QOpen 07:00 -15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Essential OsijekC o - c a t h e d r a l o fSt Peter and Paul(Konkatedrala sv.Petra i Pavla) A-2, TrgPape Ivana Pavla II, tel.(+385-31) 31 00 20,zupa@svpetaripavao.hr, www.svpetaripavao.hr. The multi-tiered 90-metre spire of this redbrickneo-Gothic beastprovides the city withits defining visual trademark.The church wasbuilt in the 1890s onthe initiative of energeticĐakovo-based BishopJosip Juraj Strossmayer,who reckoned that a 3000-capacity parish church was justwhat a growing town like Osijek needed. The church is enteredvia a small door to the right of the main portal, overlooked bya ferocious-looking trio of gargoyles. The interior is a treasuretrove of neo-gothic ornamentation, with a succession ofpinnacled altars overlooked by exuberant stained glasswindows. The interior was finished off in 1938-42 whenleading Croatian painter Mirko Rački covered the walls andceilings with brightly coloured frescoes illustrating episodesfrom the Old and New Testaments - most of which will beeasily identifiable to anyone who paid attention during Bibleclass. Holy masses are held daily at 07:00 and 18:30 and onSun at 06:30, 07:30, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30 and 18:30, July,August 18:30, Sun 06:30, 08:30, 10:00, 18:30. QOpen07:00 - 19:30, Mon 14:00 - 19:30.European Avenue (Europska avenija) E/F-2.The broad tree-lined boulevardthat streaks eastwards fromGornji Grad towards Tvrđa isfamed throughout Europe forharboring one of the bestpreserved ensembles of Ar tNouveau houses in this cornerof the continent. Ranked sideby side on the north side of theavenue (numbers 12 to 22), theywere commissioned by filthyrichindustrialists and hot-shotlawyers in the years just beforeWorld War II. Wilim Karl Hofbauer, Ante Slaviček and FranzWybird were the Osijek-based architects responsible formost of the work. Take a look at the twirly-haired goddessespeering down from no.22, or the gargoyle-like faces perusingpassers-by from the façade of no. 12, to get an idea of thefanciful decorative tastes of the era. On the opposite side ofthe road, the main post office (built in 1912) on the cornerof Europska Avenija and Kardinala Stepinca is an impressiveexample of the more functional, less frivolous architectureof the epoch.Museum of Slavonia(Muzej Slavonije) F-2,Trg Svetog Trojstva 6,Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 2507 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr.Housed in an eighteenthcenturymansion built forthe town magistrate, themuseum has a collectioncovering the period from prehistory to the present day, makingthis one of the most important museums in the country.Roman-era tombstones fill the ground-floor hallway. Severalrooms of clocks, muskets and other oddities await inspectionupstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 22:00, Sat17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission10 - 18kn. Free entry on Sundays.Osijek Art Gallery (Galerija likovnih umjetnosti)F-2, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+385-31) 25 12 80; 2512 87/(+385-31) 25 12 88, gluo@gluo.hr, www.gluo.hr. This all-embracing collection of Slavonian art containssomething for everyone, kicking off with some imposingnineteenth-century portraits of local aristocrats. Moststriking of these is The Pejačević Family in the Park (1811)by German society painter Friedrich Johann Lieder, whichfills an entire wall and shows the landowning dynasty lollingaround in front of one of their many stately homes. If youwant to really impress the locals with your knowledge ofnineteenth-century Slavonian painting, then Adolf Waldinger(1843-1904) is the name to drop. Son of an Osijek winemerchant, Waldinger won a place at the Academy of FineArt in Vienna but failed to graduate, and struggled to earnmoney as an art teacher before dying penniless and largelyforgotten. He’s now considered one of Slavonia’s greatestlandscape painters - the moody, atmospheric canvases ondisplay here help to explain why. Things get more steamy asthe collection moves on to the early twentieth-century, whenmost local artists seemed bent on painting pictures of seminakedladies flouncing around in bedrooms. If you can bearto part company with these, a room or two of abstract worksby contemporary painters brings things up to date. QOpen10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.Closed Mon. July 5 - September 5 Open 08:00 - 16:00. ClosedSat, Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.ZlatovezOne of Slavonia’s most important artistic traditions iszlatovez, or gold embroidery, which gives the garmentsworn at folk festivals and events throughout the regiona bit of the Midas touch. Originally reserved for royaltyand prestigious members of the Church, the craft hasbeen practiced in Slavonia since before the 19th centuryand involves embroidering clothing with gold thread,creating intricate and beautiful costumes. The art takespart of the spotlight each year in Đakovo, at the annualĐakovački vezovi festival, which celebrates the numerousfolk traditions of the region.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

18 What to seeWhat to see19The Drava riverfront The River Drava is an essentialpart of Osijek’s character and its difficult to see how thelocals would survive without strolling along its southern bankat least a couple of times a week. Main focus of activity isthe Zimska Luka (“Winter Harbour”), a row of boat mooringsbelow the Hotel Osijek where you’ll find a handful of floatingrestaurants, and a row of cubby-hole cafés which explodeout onto the pavement in spring and summer. From here,pedestrians and cyclists glide eastwards along ŠetališteFranje Šepera, the riverside embankment that leads pasta sequence of flowerbeds and grassy parks. At the easternend of the embankment, the sight of the red-brick Tvrđafortress district rising out of the surrounding greenery is trulywondrous to behold.The Kompa D-1. Lookingnot mu ch more than awooden platform with a hutlikecabin on top, Osijek’smuch-loved “Kompa” (“ferry“)transports foot passengersfrom Gornji Grad to theopposite bank of the Drava.It’s a remarkably simplecontraption, using the forceof the river current as themain means of propulsion - the ferry is held by a chain toprevent it from simply floating off downriver. Popular withfamilies making their way to Osijek zoo (see Parks), the Kompashuttles back and forth whenever the komparoš (captain)espies enough passengers to make the trip worthwhile. OpenApril 15 - October 09:00 - 21:00. Q Free of charge.Tvrđa E-2. An eighteenthcentury complex of cobbledstreets, grandiose buildings andopen squares, Tvrđa (“Citadel”)is the best-preserved ensembleof Baroque buildings anywherein Croatia. It began life in 1687,when Habsburg armies kickedOttoman forces out of Osijek anddecided to turn the town into themilitary nerve-centre of easternSlavonia. Austrian engineersdemolished most of the existingbuildings, moved the city centerwestwards to today’s Gornji Grad,and spent the next 35 years building a planned settlementcomprising barracks, staff headquarters, churches andmonasteries, all surrounded by a state-of-the-art systemof moats, bastions and gun positions. Most of the outerfortifications have long since been demolished, but the heartof the Tvrđa still survives in its original form.At the centre of Tvrđa is Trg svetog Trojstva (Holy TrinitySquare), a broad traffic-free expanse dominated on thenorthern side by a monumental three-storey building thatonce housed the Habsburg high command. On the westernside, the arcaded house with a spindly lookout tower originallyaccommodated Osijek’s town guard. Stretching either side ofthe square is a grid-plan of streets, each lined with elegantochre-colored buildings where Austrian bureaucrats onceTamburicaThe tamburica is the most popular instrument inCroatian folk music. It is a string instrument related tothe mandolin of Italy dating back to the 14th century. Itsnotes can be heard in most parts of Croatia during allkinds of celebrations.toiled over their military plans. A zig-zagging stretch of theouter fortifications still survives on the northeastern edgeof Tvrđa. Head down the street Fakultetska to find theWater Gate (Vodena vrata), one of the last surviving fortressgates, which leads through to the grass-fringed banks ofthe River Drava.ArchitectureEuropa Cinema E-2, Šetalište Petra Preradovića 2. Itmay look like a graceless pile of red bricks at first sight, butthis cubist construction of 1930s-vintage is much treasuredby local architecture buffs, who hail it as an outstandingexample of modern architecture. If you’re a sucker for straightlineminimalism, Europa will have you gibbering with delight.The cinema has been closed since 2011.Urania Cinema E-2, Šetalište V.Hengla 1, tel. (+385-31) 21 15 60. The Urania was designed by Viktor Arman in1912 and quickly became a much-discussed local landmark.Comprising a sensuous curvy roof and a vertical-stripedfaçade, it looks like a huge church organ let loose on thecity streets. A peach-colored paint-job (the result of recentrenovations) only adds to the unsettling effect.ChurchesChapel of St. Rocco (Kapelica Sv. Roka) D-2,Solarski trg b.b.. Built in 1740 as a sign of deliverancefrom the plagues that ravaged Osijek throughout the 1730s,this is one of Osijek’s delightful Baroque churches, completewith an Austrianate onion dome. Mass is held only on specialoccasions. Q Open during mass only.Parish Church of St. Michael(Župna crkva sv. Mihaela)F-2, Trg Jurja Križanića 2, Tvrđa,tel. (+385-31) 20 89 90. WhenHabsburg forces re-capturedOsijek from the Turks, Jesuitpriests arrived and convertedthis former mosque into oneof the city’s most handsomehouses of prayer, its extrovertcustard-colored façade framedby twin towers topped by metalliconion-shaped domes. The interiorfeatures an extravagantly-decorated baroque pulpit, andan animated high-altar painting of St Michael the Archangelbattling with demons. Mass is daily at 18:30, Sat at 07:30and Sun at 08:30, 10:30 and 18:30. Closed Monday. Q Openduring mass and by prior arrangement.The Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross(Crkva uzvišenja Sv.Križa) F-2, Trg VatroslavaLisinskog 3, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 20 81 77, kontakt@franjevci.com, www.franjevci.com. The Franciscansspearheaded the renewal of Catholic life in Slavonia inthe years following the Ottoman occupation, and built thisfine monastery church to serve as their spiritual centre.The interior contains a wealth of Baroque and Rococoornamentation, although it’s the gothic statue of Our Ladyof Osijek (Naša Gospa Osječka), a rosy-cheeked Madonnacradling a plump Christ-Child, that draws most in the way oflocal pilgrims. The accompanying monastery was the site ofa theology academy and, after 1735, Slavonia’s first printingpress. The reformist Habsburg Emperor Joseph II kicked theFranciscans out of Osijek in 1783, and they had to wait until1938 to get their property back. To visit the church you shouldjust ring to the door of the monastery and it will be openedfor you. Holy mass is at 18:00, on Tue at 07:00 and 18:00and on Sun at 07:00, 09:00 and 18:00.The Church of the Sacred name of Mary (CrkvaPreslavnog imena Marijinog) H-2, Crkvena 34,tel. (+385-31) 50 32 22, zupa@imemarijino.hr, www.imemarijino.hr. Certainly the prettiest church in Donji Grad,and quite possibly the whole of Osijek, St Mary’s was built in1733 to cater for the mushrooming population of the LowerTown. The three-tiered bell tower, topped by a dome thatlooks like an exploding grey tulip, is a feast for the eyes. Thepeach-colored interior is enlivened by some spectacularBaroque statuary. Masses are daily at 18:30 and on Sunat 07:00, 09:00, 11:00 and 18:30. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00,16:30 - 18:00.The Evangelical Church of Good News (Evanđeoskacrkva radosne vijesti) H-2/3, Cvjetkova 32, tel.(+385-31) 50 24 60. Built in 1912, this squat grey structureexudes oodles of charm, thanks largely to the two bulbousdomes poking cheekily up from either side of the façade. It’sonly when you move round the side of the church and see theStar of David motifs adorning the outer walls that you realisethat this is Donji Grad’s former synagogue. Jews made up 8%of Osijek’s population prior to their extermination by the Nazis.Their main synagogue, opposite the town hall in Gornji Grad,was demolished by Croatian quislings in World War II.LandmarksMonument to the DefendersE-2, Trg slobode. At the southernend of the Blok Centar stands theMonument to the Defenders, a cortensteel installation erected to pay tributeto Croatian soldiers who fought in the1991 war. High plates form sevenopenings or gates, each with anincreasing amount of space betweenthem. Seen from a distance, the monument looks like a largewall, but closer inspection reveals the possibility to walkbetween the plates. The open space seems to suggest theopenness and freedom that the artist hoped for after the endof the war, but take a look and decide for yourself.Pejačević fountain (Pejačevićev zdenac) E-2, Dravariverfront. This decidedly oddArt-Nouveau-esque object wasbuilt by Count Pavle Pejačevićin 1903 to beautify the city’sriverfront. Four chunky pillars,each sprouting ornate ironworkswirls, support a central canopythat looks like a magician’s hat.Sadly the fountain is no longer in function, but the survivingstructure is a fitting tribute to the prosperous, forward-lookingOsijek of the pre-World War I era.Plague column (Zavjetni stup Svetog Trojstva)F-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva. Standing at the centre of Tvrđa’sAustrianate main square is the so-called Plague Column(Zavjetni stup), a curious Baroque pillar topped by a swarmof cherubic angels borne on billowing clouds. It was erectedin 1729 by the widow of Habsburg General Petraschi to givethanks for the garrison’s deliverance from an outbreak ofplague. (It obviously didn’t do much good: plague returnedto the city at regular intervals throughout the 1740s). Thecloak-shrouded statues at the base, added in 1784, depictsaints Sebastian, Rocco, Rosalia and Catherine.The bridge of youth (Most Mladosti) E-2. Thispedestrian hanging bridge (Viseći most) over the Drava riverwas built in 1979. Well designed and modern in stature, ithas become one of the symbols of Osijek. You’ll find it inmost postcards and photos that reflect this lovely town. It’sworth the look.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

20 What to seeMail & Phones21The Red Fićo F-3. “TheRed Fićo” Art Installation- the image of the JNA(Jugoslav National Army)tank crushing a small redfićo car had travelledaround the world andbecame one of the mostrecognisable symbols ofthe Homeland War. Exactly20 years later, and in celebration of the Day devoted todefenders of the city of Osijek, an installation in the memoryof that fićo was revealed. It is located at the crossroad ofVukovarska Street and Trpimirova Street and it symbolicallyportrays Croatia’s victory over the JNA. How, one may ask?Well ironically, in this instance, it is the fićo which is crushingthe JNA tank carrying the date June 27 1991 on its plates. Adate which became a part of history.The Walker (Šetač) E-2, Trg slobode. One of Osijek’smost popular landmarks is definitely ‘The Walker’, a statueof the Croatian writer August Cesarec captured walking inmotion. The name of the artist who made it was StjepanGračan and the statue is located behind the Monument to theDefenders at Trg Slobode ( Liberation Square). As an addednovelty and thanks to some great foresight by Tomislav Levak,the Walker has now been put on traffic lights in the city centre(one day it will be on all traffic lights throughout the town) andhas replaced the standard every day image that we see in allother Croatian cities, thus making Osijek unique.MuseumArcheological Museum of Osijek (Arheološkimuzej) F-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva 2/(+385-31) 23 21 32.Osijek has been settledsince the Stone Age, whenwaves of various CentralEuropean tribes ebbedand flowed across theplains. Celts, Romans,Croats, Avars, Goths,Hungarians, Austrians,Germans, Slovaks andSerbs have lef t th eirtraces in the area. In 2007, artifacts from around theregion found a new home, diagonally across the Holy TrinitySquare from the Museum of Slavonija, in the renovated CityGuardhouse and an adjacent house. The ArcheologicalMuseum Osijek opened in the fall with a small exhibit in thefirst three rooms and a display of larger Roman stone artifactsunder a glass dome in a lovely arcaded courtyard. Especiallyinteresting is a Celtic helmet that was probably tossed intothe Sava during the 1st Century B.C. near Slavonski BrodCity toursTourist Tram (Turistički tramvaj) Visitors cancatch a glimpse of thecurrent Osijek in anold-fashioned mode oftransport, namely theelectric tram that madeits first trips through thecity way back in 1926.It only drives if booked,can be rented by bothindividuals and groupsand can take up to 30 - 40 people, the renting price is1000kn + PDV Tax for a one hour ride.and recovered during a period when the water level waslow. Renovations were completed in March of 2009 and thepermanent exhibition, which covers the period from the 5thto the 16th century in now open. Q Open Tue, Wed 10:00 -18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00- 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Guided tours 10- 13kn per person.Permanent exhibition of Water LifePermanent exhibition of Water Life F-2, Svodovibb, Tvrđa (At the Vodena vrata), tel. (+385-31) 32 2907/(+385-) 091 506 46 68, udrugagloriamaris@gmail.com, www.gloria-maris.hr. The Gloria Maris Association willentice you to ponder about not only the underworld but theuniverse. The visuals are splendid but the informed guideswill truly educate you about questions you’d never consideredbefore. Learn how pearls are made, how sea shells hum andmuch more. At the exhibition you can see the fossil remainsof the Pannonia Sea, ancient mussels of the Drava and DunavRiver, Kopački rit, the Adriatic Sea and other world seas andoceans. Put 2 hours aside and if you pre-book, English guidesare available. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10kn for children,15kn for students and 20kn for adults.ParksKing Držislav Park (Park kralja Držislava) F-2.Roughly opposite the main entrance to the Tvrđa district,this neatly manicured stretch of greenery is home to one ofOsijek’s best loved monuments. Illuminated by spotlights atnight, the life-size Dying Soldier by sculptor Robert Frangeš-Mihanović (1872 - 1940) valiantly brandishes a rifle as his feetbuckle beneath him. Intended to commemorate the dead ofWorld War I, it now serves as a memorial to all those whohave laid down their lives for the motherland.King Tomislav Gardens (Perivoj kralja Tomislava)F-2. Laid out in the eighteenth century to provide a pleasantstrolling area for Habsburg officers and their ladies, thislarge expanse of meadow and deciduous trees fills the gapbetween the Tvrđa and Gornji Grad districts. Popular withpram-pushing parents and a wide variety of human-caninepartnerships.Zoological garden (Zoološki vrt) D-1,Sjevernodravska obala 1, tel. (+385-31) 28 52 34, www.unikom.hr. The emblem of Osijek zoo is a running cheetahand you will indeed find a pair of these lean spotty cats lurkingsomewhere in the middle of this riverside complex - althoughgiven the size of their cage they’re unlikely to be doing muchrunning. Elsewhere zebras, raccoons, emus and other animalsawait inspection, and there’s an aquarium section full of scaryreptiles. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. From October to May 09:00- 17:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.Making the callYou’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope youdecided not to drop that tricky calculus course). LocalCalls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- orseven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver toyour ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code(031 if you’re calling Osijek for instance) followedby the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial00 (the international access code), the appropriatecountry code, a city or area code if applicable and thesubscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad:Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’scountry code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) andthe subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobilenumbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091,092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s numberand wait for a human voice. For an international callto a Croatian mobile, dial your international acesscode, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial theremaining 9 digits.Express mailDHL E-2, Republike Hrvatske 39, tel. (+385-31) 20 2660, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.In Time/ TNT Južna obilaznica bb, tel. (+385-31) 2059 79, osijek@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Internet placesDigital Design E-3, Reisnerova 38, tel. (+385-31) 2141 66, www.digitaldesign.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 7kn/1h.Info centar za mlade E-2, Ribarska 1, tel. (+385-31)28 30 56, icm@promi.hr, www.icm-osijek.info. QOpen11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Logg - Inn Kardinala Alojzije Stepinca 38b, tel. (+385-31) 21 45 58/(+385-) 098 971 49 40. Q Open 09:00- 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. July - August31 Open 15:00 - 22:00. 10kn/hour.City express mailCityEx D-2, Pavla Pejačevića 20, tel. (+385-31) 3075 07, osijek@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.OverseasExpress F-5, Ulica hrastova 1, tel.(+385-31) 29 77 22, osijek@overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.Closed Sun.Press Internet Cafe E-2, Lorenza Jägera 24, tel. (+385-31) 21 23 13. You can search and email wildly for 15kn/hour.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PBXPostMain Post Office E-2, K.A.Stepinca 17, tel. (+385-31)25 36 00. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Other offices:Ljudevita Posavskog bb, tel. (+385-31) 30 24 44. Open07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Martina Divalta132, tel. (+385-31) 53 07 06. Open 08:00 - 14:30, Tue08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 20 03 55. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. ClosedSun. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Public telephoneAll public phones in Croatia are card operated and you canpurchase one (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - theycome in 15 - 100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100knrespectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards whichgive you substantial discounts when calling abroad.Mobile phonesMobile phone use in Osijek is typical to mosteverywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanentgrowths that have attached themselves to earsor cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous andexciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80sglam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments.It seems that churches and cinemas remain the onlystructures holy enough to warrant the tragic silentmodedesignation in this central European location.The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098)and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be boughtall over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in newskiosks, or top up at a cash machine.SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from oneof the following. They all have numerous selling pointsthroughout the city if the below addresses aren’tconvenient for you.T-Centar E-2, Alojzija Stepinca 8b, tel. (+385-)0800 90 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun.Tele 2 Centar E-2, Hrvatske Republike 7, tel. (+385-31) 20 56 55, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.Vip Centar E-2, Stjepana Radića 40, tel. (+385-)091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

22 Getting aroundGetting around23Public transportOsijek offers you two possibilities to get around town:buses and trams. They both operate from 05:00 till 23:00or midnight, except the tram line that connects Višnjevacand Zeleno Polje on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdaysnights, on which you can catch a night ride every half hour.Two options are available for purchasing tickets. One ispaper ticket that can be bought from a driver at a costof 10 kuna, the ticket is valid for 40 minutes from themoment it is stamped. The second option is the so calledelectronic ticket butra, it can also be bought from a driveror at any Tisak news stand as well as at the GPP shops onCara Hadrijana Street 1, and at the Ante Starčević Square(underground). When you buy it for the first time it will cost40kn and has 20kn worth of credit. Whilst entering andleaving the vehicle, you need to scan it at a machine andduring a 40 minute ride on a tram or bus it will take 8knoff the account. Once you have used all the credits, youcan recharge it with a driver or at a news stand. Thosecaught without a ticket or not having scanned a ticket willbe charged 250kn. GPP Osijek, Cara Hadrijana 1, tel.(+385-31) 22 83 00 / 22 83 33 www.gpp-osijek.com, Traffic info tel. (+385-31) 20 60 32.Buses If you want to take the bus, they operate on the sametickets as trams and the procedure for buying and validatingthem, as well as the procedure for getting hit with a fine if youare travelling without one, is the same.The biggest bus stopfor local transport is at the Gajev trg, where you can catch aride to all destinations in town.Trams Osijek beat its larger European counterparts Budapestand Vienna to the punch in developing a tram service, a factthat many Osijek locals will be proud to let you know shouldyou mention their tram service. The tram runs on two lines,one connecting Višnjevac and Zeleno Polje and the othermaking a constant loop that runs from the train station tothe main square and back. The trams are quite modern and,if you happen to be an Osijek local that knows the names ofthe stops, a friendly mechanical voice will cheerfully announcethe name of your stop. If you’re a tourist, you might be a bitpeeved to learn that the names of the stops are not markedon the sign at most stops.TaxisTaxi Cammeo tel. (+385-31) 20 52 05, www.taxicammeo.com.A 5 kilometre ride costs 20kunas, whilstevery following kilometre is a charge of 5kuna. Night ridesare not charged extra and a wait longer than 5 minutes ischarged 1kn per minute.Taxi Osijek tel. (+385-31) 20 01 00. A taxi ride of up to5km costs 20kn and each kilometer thereafter costs 6kn,waiting is 59kn/h. As for the night ride, rides up to 5km cost20kn, and each following kilometer is charged 7kn whilstwaiting costs 69kn/h.TrainsCentral Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) E-3, TrgLavoslava Ružičke 2, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. The Croatia railway network has regular trains fromOsijek to Zagreb six times per day and one to Rijeka. FromZagreb, there are connections to Slovenia, Austria, Germanyand Switzerland . The trip to Zagreb takes a mere three hoursif you’re travelling with the new and refreshingly modern tiltingtrains, but up to five hours if you don’t have that luxury. Otherinternational destinations served from Osijek are Sarajevoand Budapest.For more options, please check out our train schedules.Ticket office for domestic lines is Open 04:50 - 21:40 andinternational is Open 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.BusesCentral Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-3,Bartula Kašića 70, tel. (+385-) 060 35 33 53, turist.os@app.hr, www.app.hr. Osijek is well-connected withregular routes running to most Croatian cities and also hasdaily services to Bosnia, Serbia and Germany. To see if thereare services to your destination, check out the domestic andinternational schedule just inside the station or visit their website that has all necessary info in English. It is also importantto note that if you’re buying a return ticket, you must makeboth the outgoing and return trip with the same operator, somake sure there’s a return trip at the time you would like tohead back to Osijek. The bus station can be reached by takingtram number 2 from the main square. The ticket office insidethe station hall is open 05:00 - 21:00.Car rentalAlbatros E-2, Ribarska 4 (Esseker Centre), tel. (+385-31) 30 49 00/(+385-) 091 636 32 20, info@albatrosrentacar.hr,www.albatros-rentacar.hr. QOpen 08:00- 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. AH&M E-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera 8c, tel.(+385-) 098 86 78 40, drazen@hm-rentacar.hr, www.hm-rentacar.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. AHertz D-2, Gundulićeva 32, tel. (+385-31) 20 04 22/(+385-) 091 518 03 39, osijek.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,Sun by arrangment. AUni Rent E-3, Reisnerova 70, tel. (+385-31) 20 5058/(+385-) 099 321 45 01, osijek@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.Closed Sun. AAirportKlisa Airport Vukovarska 67, Klisa, tel. (+385-31) 5144 40/(+385-31) 51 44 51, fax (+385-31) 51 44 60,opc@osijek-airport.hr, www.osijek-airport.hr. Osijek’sairport is settled 20km away from Osijek and is by the Osijek-Vukovar regional road. It is very small and serves very fewtowns, both Croatian and international. The flight schedulechanges according to seasons as Zagreb airport is the maininternational hub for the country.Airport vanTransport to the Klis Airport has been organized inconjunction with the Cammeo taxi service. A van with 8+1seats leaves the Lavoslav Ružička Square as accordingto the flight schedule; which means one and a half hoursbefore Croatia Airlines flights and 2 hours before Ryanairflights. It costs 25kn per person and the contact numberis (+385-31) 20 52 05.ParkingAs with most city centers in Croatia, Osijek’s traffic problemis slightly alleviated by a pay parking system. There are 3zones indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red), 4 kn/h, zone 2 (yellow), 3 kn/h and zone 3 (grey), 2kn/h. You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign oruse your mobile phone to pay by sending a message withyour registration number (no gaps) to the number shown onthe box (remember to include the international dialing codeif you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before yourhour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remindyou to refresh your lease of the space or move your car. If youdon’t put the ticket in the car window, or you’re late, you’ll becharged a day ticket costing 46kn in zone 3. 59kn in zone 2and 72kn in zone 1.Elektromodul D-2, Andrije Hebranga 7, tel. (+385-31) 35 84 11, elektromodul@elektromodul.hr, www.elektromodul.hr.Rent a bikeBilje Plus Biljske satnije ZNG RH 5, Bilje, tel. (+385-31)75 02 64/(+385-) 091 551 57 11, info@biljeplus.hr,www.biljeplus.hr. Q April - November Open 08:00 - 20:00.10€ per day.Cetratour D-2, Ružina 16, tel. (+385-31) 37 29 20,info@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr. Place for rentingbikes but be sure to call first. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. ClosedSat, Sun.Road helpHAK-Croatian Auto Club , tel. (+385-) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service isavailable 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours aday dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on theradio in English, Italian and German.Travel agenciesCetratour D-2, Ružina 16, tel. (+385-31) 37 29 20/(+385-31) 37 29 21, info@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Panturist B-2, Kapucinska 19, tel. (+385-31) 21 43 88,turizam@panturist.hr, www.panturist.hr. Q Open 08:00 -17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. May - September Open08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ATUI Generalturist E-2, Kapucinska 39, tel. (+385-31)21 15 00/(+385-31) 21 15 01, posijek@generalturist.com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. AZlatna greda H - 4, Opatijska 26F, tel. (+385-31) 5651 80, info@zlatna-greda.org, www.zlatna-greda.org.Q Open 08:00 - 16:00 and on request.Petrol stationsIna Čepinska D-3, Leopolda Mandića 50, tel.(+385-) 091 497 10 97, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00- 24:00. AOMV Strossmayerova B-2, Josipa JurjaStrossmayera 335, tel. (+385-31) 37 71 65. QOpen06:00 - 24:00. APetrol Južna obilaznica Južna obilaznica bb, tel.(+385-31) 27 52 58, www.petrol.hr. QOpen 06:00- 22:00. ATifon Osijek 2 E/F-2, Vukovarska 49, tel. (+385-31) 50 40 07. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Awww.inyourpocket.comOsijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

24 SPORTsportshopping25BikingAfter settling all the other transportation issues like bus,train and car arrangements, there is one more optionyou should consider: seeing the city of Osijek by rentinga bike, then heading out for a longer adventure on bicycletrails that allow you to explore the area surrounding thecity ‘til your heart’s content. There are two internationalbike routes in the area that offer you the chance to see aload of cultural sights and meet interesting people alongthe way.The recently opened Pannonian Peace Route is an 80-kilometer ride from Osijek to Sombor that was sponsoredby the Association for Nature and Environment ProtectionGreen Osijek (Zeleni Osijek). The path runs right along theDanube and takes you through the Kopački Rit and GornjePodunavlje nature reserves. Zlatna greda, Opatijska26f, tel.(+385-31) 56 51 80, (+385-) 091 421 1424, www.zlatna-greda.org, Open 08:00 - 16:00 and onrequest.Another popular option is the Danube Route, which runsthrough the eastern-most parts of Croatia and along theborders with Serbia and Hungary. The 138-km trail leadsyou through a diverse landscape right up to the border withBosnia and Herzegovina. The Danube Route Guide waspublished by the Bicikl group in Zagreb, www.bicikl.hr.For bike rental options, please see our Getting Aroundsection.Bike repairBicikli Škos E-2, Županijska 40, tel. (+385-31) 20 0900, servis@bikemotoskos.com, www.bikemotoskos.com. Also at Gundulićeva 74, E-3, tel. (+385 - 31) 37 39 89.Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. AExtreme sport D-2, Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 235a,tel. (+385-31) 30 23 64. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00- 13:00. Closed Sun. AEco adventureBaranja adventure Ive Lole Ribara 27, Karanac, tel.(+385-) 091 210 12 12, richard@baranya-adventure.com, www.baranya-adventure.com. QOpen by priorarrangement.Zlatna greda H-4, Opatijska 26F, tel. (+385-31) 56 5180, info@zlatna-greda.org, www.zlatna-greda.org. Asidefrom taking an active interest in environmental protection, thisagency also organizes interesting and engaging activities likephotosafaris, boat rides along the Danube, nature educationseminars and walks along the path in Zlatna Greda eco-center.The eco-center established by the association Zeleni Osijekseeks to educate visitors and locals about ways to protectthe delicate natural environments of Kopački Rit and Baranja.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00 and on request.FishingFor hundreds of years, the Drava River served as the mainartery for the town of Osijek, supplying the necessarytools for maintaining a city: water, food and trade. Today,the river remains an integral part of the city in thoseareas, but is also a source of recreation and relaxationfor the citizens of the region. One of the popular pastimespracticed on the banks of the Drava is fishing. A varietyof fish populates the waters of the river, including bothpike and carp. The portion of the Drava near Bilje was thesite of a World Fishing Competition event in the summerof 2006.Kopački Rit, the natural gem of the surrounding area, alsooffers fishing opportunities. A large part of the park hasbeen turned into a nature reserve, but there are areasthat are under less strict supervision and the fish arefair game (provided you have the proper licenses andpermits!). There are over 40 species of fish swimming thewaters of Kopački Rit, including pike, tench, bream, carp,catfish, pike-perch and perch. Information about fishingand hunting is available at the Kopački Rit tourist office oronline at www.kopacki-rit.com.Sport Fishing Union of Osijek-Baranja CountyH/I-2, Donjodravska obala 8, tel. (+385-31) 50 44 55,zsrd-osijek@os.t-com.hr, www.ribolov-osijek.hr. Infoabout licenses and permits. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00.Fishing suppliesAdriana ribolovni centar E-2, Županijska 45, tel.(+385-31) 20 03 45, www.adriana-sport.hr. QOpen08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. ClosedSun. AUdica E-2, Stjepana Radića 18, tel. (+385-31) 21 27 74.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. AHuntingCitizens of Osijek, as well as visitors to the city, have theluxury of enjoying its prime geographical location. Thecity reaps the benefits of close proximity to two majorrivers, the Drava and the Danube. Also, one of Osijek’smost important neighbors is the Kopački Rit Nature Park,a wonderland of plant and animal life that just begs tobe explored by nature lovers. In fact, all of Osijek-BaranjaCounty possesses awealth of untouched nature that makes for perfectdaytrips. Sportsmen also love the area as it offers a hostof fishing and hunting opportunities, from hunting birdsand angling to deer hunting. There are 83 official huntingsites maintained by several hunting associations, all ofwhich combine to form the Hunting Union of Osijek-BaranjaCounty. In addition to these locations, there are also 14state-sponsored hunting areas. The county enjoys a richhunting tradition and a wide array of game exists in thearea for the able hunter. Big game like wild boar, deer andCopacabanaroe deer abound, along with smaller game like pheasant,quail, partridge and a wide variety of other birds.Throughout the hunting areas, there are cozy huntinglodges to which you can repair to plan your strategy orsample some local cooking before setting out again in thequest to bag some game. Need some further motivation?In 2001, a lucky hunter scored a trophy roe-buck in theStaro Petrovo Selo area. In order to start stalking yourprey, you need to complete a safety course and thenobtain a hunting license.Hunting Union of Osijek-Baranja County B/C-1/2,J.Jurja Strossmayera 65a, tel. (+385-31)36 95 92, www.lovacki-savez-osijek.hr. Information about formalities.QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.SwimmingCity pools (Gradski bazeni) F-3, Martina Divalta6a, tel. (+385-31)57 00 66, www.sportski-objekti.hr. If you want to getyour swim on, thereare pools availableat Gradski bazeni.The largest one isnot olympic size, butstill large enough toget some laps in. It’sabout 1.8m deep.The recreational pool is about 1.3m deep and there’s a kiddiepool for the youngsters. If you feel like relaxing, take a dip inthe jacuzzi, a break in the sauna, or a trip to the solarium tocatch some artificial rays. The entry fee is 20kn for adultsand 15kn for children. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.Copacabana F-1, Tvrđavica bb, www.sportski-objekti.hr. Come to Osijek with visions of bronze-limbed Braziliansplaying beach football and you’ll probably be disappointed.However if you’re the proud owner of a skimpy bathingcostume and the weather is warm enough to wear it, thenthis is the place to come. Located on the northern banks ofthe Drava, Osijek’s modest answer to Rio’s famous beachis an open-air swimming pool (June-Sept) with water slide,surrounded by grassy lawns. Even if it’s too cold for strippingoff and splashing around, you still get great views across theriver towards the Tvrđa district. The entrance fee is 5kn foradults and 2kn for children. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.Fitness centersFitness Studio Central D-2, Franje Antuna Blažića 2,tel. (+385-31) 37 54 01, fitness.central@os.t-com.hr,www.fitness-central.net. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00- 20:00. Closed Sun. July 4 - September 5 Open 09:00 - 12:00,17:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.Ritam Pulsa D-2, Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 203, tel.(+385-31) 30 33 11, www.sportski-objekti.hr. QOpen09:00 - 22:00, Sat 15:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.SquashSquash Club Sano D-2, Svete Ane 87, tel. (+385-31)37 27 66, fitness.studio.sano@os.t-com.hr, www.sanosquash.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,Sun 10:00 - 12:00. 30min/25 - 40kn.Shopping MallsAvenue Mall D-3, Sv. Leopolda Mandića 50a, tel.(+385-31) 63 86 40, office@avenuemallosijek.hr, www.avenuemallosijek.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Esseker Centre A-1, Ribarska 4, tel. (+385-31) 6360 00, www.essekercentar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.Closed Sun.Portanova B-3, Svilajska 31a, tel. (+385-31) 32 12 15,portanova@portanova.hr, www.portanova.hr. QOpen09:00 - 21:00.AntiquesAntikviteti Kulić outskirts, Vinogradska 128, tel.(+385-31) 58 68 08/(+385-) 091 930 87 99, milka@antikviteti-kulic.com, www.antikviteti-kulic.com. QOpen by prior arrangement.Balaban & Son A-1/2, Županijska 6, tel. (+385-31)20 07 12/(+385-) 098 25 25 35, balaban.antikvarijat@gmail.com. Also at B-2, Prolaz Vanje Radauša bb, Open09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen07:00 - 15:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Ezop A-1/2, Županijska 43, tel. (+385-31) 20 24 44,ezop@ezop-antikvarijat.hr, www.ezop-antikvarijat.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ADelicatessenOrlov put Biljska šuma 1, Kopačevo - Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 04 98/(+385-) 091 225 58 86, na.orlovom.putu@os.t-com.hr, www.eko-gospodarstvo.com. Theecologically inclined can find sanctuary at this 7 acre farmwhich prides itself on its natural products that are grownwithout chemicals. Only 6km away from Osijek, all visitors canhandpick their fruit and vegetables. Juices, syrups, delicaciesand wines as well as educational programmes are also onoffer. Q Open by prior arrangement.FlowersAlstromeria E-2, Republike Hrvatske 13, tel. (+385-31)20 88 50, www.alstromeria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. NSouvenirsBlažeković candlemaker H/I/J-3, Reisnerova 131,tel. (+385-31) 37 25 46/(+385-) 091 628 75 36,ranogajec.josip@gmail.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. NThe Čočić Cellars – Gift salon A/B-3, IvanaGundulića 9, tel. (+385-31) 21 00 00, cocicgiesler@net.hr, www.cocic.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00- 13:00. Closed Sun.Lega-lega E - 2, Županijska 25, tel. (+385-31) 4941 04, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. Theword ‘Lega-lega’, which is short for a colleague, is slang andespecially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can findnotebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with originaldesigns amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one thattruly reveals your character the best. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00,Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. ARukotvorine A-1/2, Županijska 15, tel. (+385-31) 2122 17. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 -14:00. Closed Sun.Škrinjica A-2, Trg A. Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-31) 2049 66. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. ClosedSun. ATennisTenis centar Osijek C-2, Perivoj kralja Tomislava 1, tel.(+385-31) 21 10 35, www.sportski-objekti.hr. QOpen07:00 - 22:00. 50kn/per hour. www.inyourpocket.comOsijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

26 directoryOSIJEK Baranja County27Banks & ExchangesHypo Alpe Adria Bank E-2, Kapucinska 29, tel. (+385-31) 23 12 31, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.Raiffeisenbank Austria E-2, Kapucinska 34, tel.(+385-31) 53 15 50/(+385-31) 53 15 70, www.rba.hr.Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.July 4 - August 27 Open 08:00 - 15:00, Mon 08:00 - 17:30,Sat 08:30 - 12:00.Slatinska banka E-2, Županijska 13, tel. (+385-31) 2007 97, www.slatinska-banka.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 17:30,Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.Volksbank E-2, Hrvatske Republike 45, tel. (+385-31)22 97 00, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Business connectionsCroatian Chamber of Economy - Osijek CountyChamber F-2, Europska avenija 13, tel. (+385-31) 2238 00, hgkos@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Q Open 08:00 -16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July - August 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00.Closed Sat, Sun.Enterprise Eur ope Network (Eur op skapoduzetnička mreža) F-2, Europska avenija 13(Osijek County Chamber), tel. (+385-31) 22 38 52/(+385-31) 22 38 00, eenos@hgk.hr, www.een.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - August 31 Open07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Real estateElabo B - 2, Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 270, tel. (+385-31) 37 60 00/(+385-) 098 21 42 69, elabo@elabo.hr,www.elabo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Estate E-2, Kapucinska 25, tel. (+385-31) 20 1113/(+385-) 098 33 89 59, estate@estate.hr, www.estate.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat by appointment.Closed Sun.German E-2, Kapucinska 23/I, tel. (+385-31) 20 01 01/(+385-) 098 82 03 65, 091 530 77 20, info@germannekretnine.hr,www.german-nekretnine.hr. QOpen08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.Goldal E-2, Lorenza Jägera 14, tel. (+385-31) 20 23 22,info@goldal.hr, www.goldal.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Nekretnine Osijek E-2, Trg slobode 3, tel. (+385-31)20 02 11/(+385-) 098 63 06 65, www.nekretnineosijek.com. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun on request.Lifestyle DirectoryBeauty CentresBeauty centre Ka E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 2302 30, ka@beauty-ka.hr, www.beauty-ka.hr. QOpen08:00 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. ACulture CentresAlliance Francaise d’Osijek E-2, Kapucinska26/II, tel. (+385-31) 49 71 99/(+385-) 098 6470 21, bureau@alliance-francaise-osijek.hr, www.alliance-francaise-osijek.hr. Franch library. QOpen10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Dry cleaners & LaundriesJadranka E-2, Županijska 6, tel. (+385-31) 20 07 06.Both laundry and dry cleaners. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Petra E-3, Gundulićeva 34, tel. (+385-31) 21 07 17.Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 12:30.Closed Sun.English booksAlgoritam E-2, Trg slobode 7, tel. (+385-31) 21 4310, www.algoritam.hr. Books and magazines in foreignlanguages. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.Closed Sun. AHospitalGeneral Hospital H-3, Josipa Huttlera 4, tel. (+385-31)51 15 11, www.kbo.hr.Language SchoolsAd Hoc E-2, Stjepana Radića 12, tel. (+385-31) 21 5500, adhoc@adhoc.hr, www.adhoc.hr. Q Open 08:00 -16:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Lanico E-2, Županijska 18, tel. (+385-31) 20 09 66/(+385-31) 20 09 67, lanico.hr@lanico.hr, www.lanico.hr.Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.PetsVeterinarska stanica Osijek H-5, Vinkovačka bb, tel.(+385-31) 27 50 66, vetstaos@inet.hr, www.vetos.hr.For an emergency call (+385-31) 27 50 60. Q Open 07:00- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun on request.Vetosan F-3, Bartula Kašića 18, tel. (+385-) 098 4118 88, www.vetosan.hr. For an emergency call (+385-)098 41 18 88. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Fri10:00 - 12:00 and on request. Closed Sat, Sun.PharmaciesCentar E-2, Trg Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-31) 20 5722. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00, Sat 07:30 - 07:00, Sun 07:00- 14:00, 21:00 - 07:00.Park F-2, Park kralja Petra Krešimira IV 6, tel. (+385-31)20 83 23. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 21:00.Police stationPolice station E-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 1, tel. (+385-31) 23 71 11. Traffic police is at the same address, tel.(+385-31) 23 71 12, 23 71 14.TranslatorsAd Hoc E-2, Stjepana Radića 12, tel. (+385-31) 2155 00, adhoc@adhoc.hr, www.adhoc.hr. Translators forEnglish, German, Italian, Russian, Cezch,... Q Open 08:00 -16:00, Tue,Wed, Thu 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Lingua E-3, Ivana Gundulića 5, tel. (+385-31) 20 15 15,lingua@lingua.hr, www.lingua.hr. Translators for English,German, French, Italian, Spanish, Hungarian... QOpen 09:00- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.WellnessSense Wellness Club E-2, J.J.Strossmayera 39,tel. (+385-) 095 505 70 87, sensewellness@net.hr,www.sense.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.Closed Sun.www.inyourpocket.comHorsesThe Đakovo Stud Farm (Đakovačka ergela)Augusta Šenoe 45, Đakovo, tel. (+385-31) 81 32 86/(+385-31) 82 25 31, ergela.djakovo@os.t-com.hr, www.ergela-djakovo.hr. While you are in Osijek you should alsovisit Đakovo and explore the history of the world-renownedLipizzaner horses who make their home in the region.With their muscular, Baroque build and elegant features,Lipizzaners are beautiful to behold and watching them moveis a spectacular sight. Usually thought of as white horses,they are actually born dark and have dark skin, but their coatsturn lighter every year until the hair turns snowy white as thehorses reach adulthood.Lipizzaners are perhaps best-known for the aerobatic,dance-like manouevres they perform to classical music at theSpanish Riding School in Vienna, a world-famous center forthe sport of classical dressage. The school takes its namefrom the fact that Lipizzaners were bred as military and ridinghorses for the nobility by the Habsburgs from Andalucianstock. The Habsburgs in 1580 established an imperial studat Lipica, Slovenia, and this is how the breed gained its name.Currently operating in two locations, Pastuharna and Ivandvor,Đakovo’s stud farm is representative of Croatia’s excellenthorse breeding tradition, making Đakovo’s Lipizzaner horsesan important facet of Croatia’s cultural heritage. Lipizzanerhorse teams can be seen at cultural events throughouteastern Croatia, including Đakovački vezovi, a folklore festivalof the regions of Slavonia and Baranja that takes place everyJuly in Đakovo and is a showcase of traditional folk costumes,dancing and singing groups, and local customs. Visitors arewelcome to the stud. Please call in advance if you would like aguided tour. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00 and on request. Admission10 - 20kn, 20 - 30kn with guide.Kopački ritKopački Rit Nature Park (Park prirode Kopačkirit) Titov dvorac 1, Lug, tel. (+385-31) 75 23 20, fax(+385-31) 75 23 21, prijemni.centar@kopacki-rit.hr, www.kopacki-rit.hr. Just 10km northeast of Osijek,Kopački rit is one of the largest areas of wetland in Europe,and is something of a paradise for wading birds and theiradmirers. Declared a Nature Reserve (park prirode) in 1976,this 23000-hectare expanse of lakes, reeds, woodland andpasture is criss-crossed by dyke-top roads, making it easilyaccessible to the day-tripper.Kopački rit owes its uniquely soggy character to seasonalflooding, caused (usually in spring and autumn) when excessrainwater slows up the nearby Drava and Danube rivers, whichbegin to overflow their banks. When this happens, large areasof Kopački rit can remain under water for weeks or months,creating the perfect haven for water creatures and birdlife.There are also two permanent lakes, Sakadaš and Kopačko,each surrounded by reedy vegetation. Semi-sunken forestsof white willow thrive in the low-lying parts of Kopački rit,while poplar, oak and elm cover the higher ground. The lakessupport a huge population of carp, pike, catfish and perch,alongside an abundance of frogs, snails and insects. Duringthe course of the year Kopački rit might be visited by asmany as 285 bird species. Of these, 141 species nest hereregularly, the rest are spring and summer migrants. It’s thefish-eating birds that flourish most, with herons, cormorants,white-tailed sea eagles and egrets congregating around lakesSakadaš and Kopačko.The main entrance to the Reserve is at the Visitors’ Centre(Prijemni centar), a traditional-style thatched hut just northof the village of Kopačevo, where you pay an entrance fee andreceive an English-language information leaflet. The park iseasy to get to: if you’re driving, head north from Osijek asfar as the village of Bilje, turn right at the main crossroads,and follow the signs to “Park prirode Kopački rit”. There’s acycle path running alongside the Osijek-Bilje road, making it apleasant two-wheel jaunt. Those with no wheels whatsoeverwill have to content themselves with catching an Osijek-Biljebus (every 30-50 min from Vukovarska cesta) and walkingthe remaining 4km to the Visitors’ Centre.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

28 OSIJEK Baranja CountyOSIJEK Baranja County29Once beyond the Visitors’ Centre you’re free to explore theReserve on your own, proceeding along the eastbounddyke for 2km before arriving at the shores of Lake Sakadaš,site of a partially sunken forest where you’re likely to spotcormorants and herons.From here you really need a car to get the best out of theplace. About 8km north of Lake Sakadaš are the oak forestsof Tikveš, thronging with wild boar, deer, and secretive blackstorks. In the middle of the forest is the palatial, red-brickTikveš Hunting Lodge (Dvorac Tikveš), built for ArchdukeFranz Ferdinand in the nineteenth century, taken over by theSerbian royal family after World War I, and subsequently usedby communist leader Josip Broz Tito. Perhaps appropriately fora location long associated with spraying the local fauna withgunshot, Tikveš now hosts conservation-oriented seminarsorganized by the European Environmental Centre (EuropskiVillage Guest HouseBaranjski dvori Šandora Petefija 61, Zmajevac, tel.(+385-31) 73 40 55/(+385-) 091 200 58 85, nadj.seoski.turizam@os.t-com.hr, www.baranjski-dvori.hr.If you happen to be in the village of Zmajevac and need alittle rest and relaxation with a side of tasty homemadefood, this cozy bed and breakfast will do the trick. Thehospitable hosts make you feel right at home and it’s inthe perfect location to explore the area or the local wineroads. There are four rooms with thick walls and real oakbeds that guarantee a good night’s sleep. Each room comeswith its own bathroom and bears a local girl’s name. Youshould definitely call ahead to check availability. Prices areper person per night and include breakfast. Q 7 rooms(4 doubles 150kn, 2 quads 150kn, 1 apartments 150kn).LW hhhCrvendać Biljske satnije ZNG RH 5, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 02 64/(+385-) 091 551 57 11, 099 692 7828, pansion@crvendac.com, www.crvendac.com.Set in a well-tended garden, this lovely house offers cleanbright rooms with laminated floors and shared WC/showerfacilities. A mood-enhancing red-and-white color schemeruns through absolutely everything in the house - hencethe name, which is Croatian for ‘robin red-breast’ The homecookingis excellent and half- or full-board arrangements arewell worth considering. Prices are per person per night andinclude breakfast. Q 3 rooms (1 doubles 156kn, 2 triples156kn). 6LWIvica i Marica Ive Lole Ribara 8a, Karanac, tel.(+385-) 091 137 37 93/(+385-) 098 25 26 74,ivicaimarica@ivica-marica.com, www.ivica-marica.com. A farm in the ethno village of Karanac which is run bya young, friendly family. Visitors can choose between rentingrooms, apartments or the entire house, and the family willprovide you with plenty of options as to how to spend yourcentar za okoliš). The area west of Tikveš is largely takenup with meadowland and commercial fish-breeding ponds.Returning towards the Visitor’s Centre this way you’ll passthe Kormoran restaurant, famous for carp roasted on a stick.The restaurant has got a lovely rustic interior, although it canget packed with coach parties at times.By far the best way to see the park is to take a boat trip oropt for a jeep tour with a local guide. It’s important to ringthe visitor’s centre to enquire about these in advance ratherthan just turning up on spec - the boat trips in particulardon’t depart at a regular time every day of the week. Theboat trip on Orao I (“Eagle One”) goes along Lake Sakadašalong the Čonakut canal to Lake Kopačko. Along the routeyou’ll see sunken forests of white willow, crowded in springwith cormorants and geese and in autumn with migratingducks. Additional attractions in the vicinity of the reserveinclude the village of Kopačevo just southeast of the Visitor’sCentre. It’s a wonderfully preserved example of a typicalSlavonian settlement, with neat rows of picturesque singlestoreyfarmhouses, many with strings of red paprika hangingoutside to dry. The Zelena Žaba restaurant in Kopačevo isone of the best places in the region to eat fiš perkelt, thedangerously spiced stew comprising huge chunks of catfishor pike-perch.Heading back to Osijek via Bilje you can’t fail to notice thehandsome ochre palace at the eastern end of Bilje village,built at the end of the 17th century to serve as a huntinglodge for the greatest of the Austrian army’s commanders,Prince Eugene of Savoy. The palace is now occupied by theadministration offices of the Kopački rit Nature Reserve, buttime: excursions, sporting activities or even helping outwith the housework. It really is a sweet combination of themodern and traditional, and it’s bound to warm the cocklesof your heart. Prices are per person per night and includebreakfast. Q 9 rooms (4 triples 225kn, 5 apartments225kn). H6LW hhhKukuriku Kolodvorska 18, Karanac, tel. (+385-) 09825 21 79, kukuriku-karanac@net.hr. This old, originalPannonian house in Karanac has plenty of preserveddetails. It’s perfect for families with children and it offers acarefree holiday since it has all the necessities for babiesas well as educational toys and a backyard with sand pit.Bicycle rental is available and pets are welcomed. Pricesare per person per night and include breakfast. Q 3 rooms(2 doubles 150kn, 1 triples 150kn). T6LMazur Kneza Branimira 2, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 7502 94/(+385-) 098 82 61 15, infomazur@gmail.com,www.mazur.hr. Friendly family house in the middle of Biljeoffering recently refurbished rooms with a/c, bathroom, minibar and TV. Lovingly-restored old cupboards and wardrobesfeature in a couple of the rooms. Prices are per person pernight. Q 4 rooms (1 doubles 156 - 306kn, 3 triples 156 -306kn). P6LNGW hhhSklepić Kolodvorska 58, Karanac, tel. (+385-31) 7202 71/(+385-) 098 73 91 59, denis.sklepic@inet.hr,www.sklepic.hr. Eight kilometres east of Beli Manastir,this charming B&B occupies a lovingly-restored Baranjafarmhouse, complete with red peppers hanging up todry in the porch, and geese honking merrily in the yard.The rooms have modern bathrooms but attractive oldfashionedfurnishings elsewhere, including some lovely bitsof embroidery on the curtains and tablecloths. Prices areper person per night and include breakfast. Q 8 rooms (7doubles 185 - 247kn, 1 triples 185kn). 6LGWThe Belje wine cellarThe story of the Belje wine cellar begins in the vineyardswhich cover the southern slopes of the Banovo brdo hill.An 8km-long wine road meanders through this idyllicspot, leading to Kneževi Vinogradi (the Counts Vineyards)where, five hundred years ago, a two-storey wine cellarwas built with extensive archives and a tasting room.Visit the cellar and our wine shop every day from 10:00 -18:00. Please call ahead to arrange a tour of the vineyardand the wine cellar.you’re free to stroll through the main gate and admire thebeautifully proportioned courtyard. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.Admission 10kn. Guided tours 50 - 70kn per person. Guidedtours for more then 25 people 50 - 65kn per person.PalacesMailath Palace (Dvorac Mailath) Donji Miholjac.Thirty kilometers northwest of Valpovo, on an ox-bow spur ofthe River Drava, Donji Miholjac is a town which fell under thesway of the Hilleprand von Prandaus in the eighteenth-century.Ana Hilleprand von Prandau built a long, single-storey arcadedpied-à-terre in the center of town in 1818, inherited 70 yearslater by Mailath von Székhely, when the male Hilleprandvon Prandau line came to an end. Mailath von Székhely’senlargement of the palace with the frivolous addition ofmock-Tudor turrets and medieval-chateau towers, makesDonji Miholjac one of the most eccentric country houses inthis part of Europe. There’s no museum in the palace, butthe overgrown neighboring park provides a good opportunityto stretch your legs.Pejačević Palace(Dvorac Pejačević)Pejačevićev trg 5,Našice, tel. (+385-31) 61 34 14, www.zmn.hr. Located 50kmnorthwest of Osijek onthe road to Virovitica,Našice is the kind ofpeaceful one-streettown that you’ll find allover Slavonia. Slap bang in the middle of town is the PejačevićPalace (Dvorac Pejačević), a deliciously custard-colouredstructure framed by a splendid pair of bulbous green towers.The palace gets its name from the Pejačević family, grantedownership of the town in 1732 in reward for their services tothe Habsburg court during the anti-Ottoman wars of the lateseventeenth century. The Palace, built in 1812 and modifiedhalf a century later, is probably the best-preserved aristocraticseat in Slavonia, and the only one which is regularly open tothe public. Inside, a grandiose double staircase curves itsway up to the first-floor Regional Museum, a large part ofwhich is devoted to Dora Pejačević (1885-1923), Croatia’sfirst female composer. Dora’s grand piano takes centre stage,surrounded by sepia family photographs, and a milky marblebust of a veiled female corpse that the moody composerkept in her room. The museum curator will gladly play a tapeof Pejačević’s works as you look round (and there are CDsfor sale should you like what you hear). Two other talentedlocals who get whole rooms to themselves are sculptor HinkoJuhn (1891-1940), represented here by some sensuousfemale nudes, and Izidor Kršnjavi (1845-1927), a painterand art critic who had a profound influence on the Zagreb artscene in the years prior to World War I. Watch out for VlahoBukovac’s striking portrait of Kršnjavi, dressed up in strikingorangey-red tunic and coat. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Mon, FriOsijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.comosijek.inyourpocket.com2011 / 2012

30 OSIJEK Baranja County08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July - August31 Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.Admission 10 - 15kn.Behind the palace stretches a beautiful landscaped park,with a verdant tree-scattered slope falling away towards akidney-shaped lake popular with picnickers. The Pejačevićhunting lodge (which is large enough to be a palace in itsown right) is off to the left of the park’s main slope - it nowserves as a school.Over on the other side of the street from the palace, theMonastery Church of St Anthony of Padua (Crkva SvetogAntuna Padovanskog), Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-31)61 32 05 is a medieval Franciscan church which fell derelictduring the Ottoman occupation, and was rebuilt in flamboyantBaroque style when the monks returned in the earlyeighteenth century. There’s a host of vivaciously ornamentedBaroque altars inside, and an ornate pulpit with statues of theevangelists positioned around the balustrade. Round the backthe church, the main monastery building harbors an exhibitionof reliquaries, priestly vestments and old church manuscripts.Mass is daily at 07:00 and 18:30, Sun at 07:00, 09:00, 11:00and 18:30. Open by prior arrangement.The hotel Park, next to the palace at Pejačević trg 4, has alarge restaurant which offers inexpensive lunchtime specialsin the meat-and-potatoes line.Prandau - Normann Palace (Dvorac Prandau -Normann) Valpovo. Heading northeast from Našice bringsyou swiftly to Valpovo, amarket town which grewup around the medievalcastle of the Morovićclan. The castle wasstrengthened by theOttoman Turks, who leftthe red-brick, horseshoeshapedfortifications inpretty good conditionwhen they were riddenout of town by the Austrians in 1687. In 1721 the Habsburgcourt awarded the town to the Tyrolean family of Hilleprandvon Prandau, who governed Valpovo as absentee landlordsuntil Josip Ignatz Hilleprand von Prandau (1749-1816) decidedto abandon the hurly-burly of Viennese life and settled herefor good. Using the existing fortress as the nucleus of hispalace, Josip Ignatz added a neoclassical façade toppedby a clock tower, whose creamy-pink colour scheme is stillin fabulous condition. Passing through the tunnel-like gatebeneath the clocktower brings you into an attractive cobbledcourtyard overlooked by a sandcastle-shaped medieval towerand a whitewashed gothic chapel. The Valpovo RegionalMuseum (Muzej Valpovštine) tel. +385-31 65 06 39.Open 08:00 - 15:00, Mon, Thu 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,Sun. June - September 15 Open 10:00 - 12:00, Mon, Thu16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. Admission5 - 10kn. The Museum has got a permanent display of thePrandau - Normann family. They might be able to open upthe tower and the chapel for you if you make an appointmentin advance.In front of the palace a stone bridge leads across the formermoat to the castle park, a perfectly preserved 19th centurylandscaped affair rich in deciduous trees.WineFor literally thousands of years in the regions of Osijek-Baranja County, grapes have been cultivated to producethat ever-popular and satisfying beverage known as wine.The Baranja region’s name itself is a hint as to its winegrowing abilities: in Hungarian, boranya means “winemother.” Obviously, it was given this moniker becauseit was particularly suited to growing grapes; that factremains true to this day. The area receives just the rightamount of rainfall every year and has the ideal averagetemperature to enable those yummy little fruits to grow(and get squashed later on). One of the ways to getacquainted with some of Croatia’s finest wines is to takea trip along the wine road. The wine road runs throughBaranja district along Banska kosa hill, “Mons aureus” or“Golden Hill”, Đakovo district, Erdut district and Ferćancidistrict - a route that will lead you to renowned winemerchants who will do their best to convince you of thesuperiority of their liquid wares. The growing popularity ofthe region’s wine has made the wine road an oft-visitedattraction for the area. Consequently, the cellars andthe wine keep getting better and better. It’s time to starttasting!You can visit the cellars every day (except during the grapeharvest) but be sure to call first to make an appointment.Đakovo DistrictBiskupija Đakovo Strossmayerov trg 6, Đakovo,tel. (+385-31) 80 22 06/(+385-31) 81 19 71.Đakovačka vina Mandićevac bb, Drenje, tel.(+385-31) 83 72 00, djakovacka-vina@os.t-com.hr, www.djakovacka-vina.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun.Ferićanci DistrictFeravino Ferićeva 16, Ferićanci, tel. (+385-31) 6032 13, www.feravino.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.Erdut DistrictIPK Erdutski vinogradi Trg Branka Hercega 1,Erdut, tel. (+385-31) 59 65 55, www.erdutskivinogradi.hr.Q Open 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.Baranja DistrictBelje wine cellar Šandora Petefija 2, KneževiVinogradi, tel. (+385-31) 73 09 22/(+385-31) 7309 02, www.belje.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Pleasecall ahead to arrange a tour of the vineyard and thewine cellar.Čočić wine cellar Ružina 20, Zmajevac, tel.(+385-) 091 110 49 42, www.cocic.hr. Q Open byprior arrangement.Gerštmajer wine cellar Šandora Petef ija31, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-) 091 351 55 86,vinagerstmajer@gmail.com. Q Open by priorarrangement.Josić wine cellar Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel.(+385-) 098 25 26 57, vinarija_josic@net.hr, www.josic.hr. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.Kolar wine cellar Maršala Tita Suza, tel. (+385-31)73 30 81/(+385-) 091 521 86 23, fax (+385-31)73 31 84, www.podrumi-kolar.com. Q Open by priorarrangement.Osijek In Your Pocketosijek.inyourpocket.com

Street register35AAdamovića, Ive E-2Alanska C-2Aljmaška F-4Andrića, Jospia E-3Ariša C-4BBakarskaG/H-5Banova H/I-2, I-3BanjalučkaG-3/4BapskaH-3/4Baranjska G-3Bašćanska H-3Bednjanska D-4Belišćanska G-3Belomanastirska F/G-3Biđska D-4Bihačka G-4Bilogorska C-2Biljska cesta G/H-1, G-2Biogradska H-3,H/I-4Bistrička D-4Biševska G-3Bjelinskog, Brune G-3Bjelolasićka C-2Bjelovarska G-3Blažića, Franje Antuna D-1/2Blok centar II E-2Bokokotorska H-5Borova B/C-4, C-5Bosanska G-3Bösendorfera, Josipa F-2Bosutska D/E-3, E-4Bosutsko naselje E-4Boškovića, Ruđera F-2BračkaG/H-3Breznička E-5Brijunska H-3Brlić-Mažuranić, Ivane C-2Brodska G-4Bunska E-4Buzetska H-4CCara Hadrijana G-2Cesarića, Dobriše F-2/3Cetinska E-3Ciglarska I-2Creska H-3Crikvenička I-3CrkvenaH/I-2CvjetkovaH-2/3ČČevapovića, Grgura E-3Čikolska F-3Čvrsnička C-2ĆĆelijska G-4DDalmatinska C-2/3Daruvarska G-4DelničkaF/G-4Divalta, MartinaF/G/H/I-3, I/J-4Donjodravska obala H/i-2Dragonjska D/E-4DravskaD/E-4Dravska obala G/H-2DrinskaE/F-3Drniška G-4Dubrovačka D-2/3Dugog otoka H-4Dunavska E-3ĐĐakovačka G-4Đakovština E-3EErdutska G-3Europska avenija E/F-2FFakultetska F-2Firingera, Kamila F-2Frankopana, Franje KrsteH-3Franjevačka F-2GGacka E-4Gluha H-2Gojkovića, Jovana H-2Gornjodravska o. D/E-2Gospička G-4Gradačka H-4Grmić H-1Gundulića, Ivana D/E-2/3Gupca, Matije H/I-3HHebranga, Andrije D-2Hengla, Vjekoslava E-2Hercegovačka H-3Hötzendorfa, Huge E-2Hrvatske republike E-2Humska H-4Huttlera, Josipa H-3Hvarska H-3IIlirska D-2Iločka G-4Ivanovačka G-4JJablanova B/C-4/5Jadranska E-3Jadrovska E-4Jägera, Lorenza E-2Jagića, Vatroslava F-2JahorinskaC/D-2Jankovačka C-2Jovanovića, Zmaja JoveH-2KKalnička C-2Kanižlića, Antuna D-2Kapucinska E-2Karašićka D-5Kardinala A. Stepinca E-2/3Kašića, Bartula F-3Kaštelanska H-4Katančića, M. Petra F-2Keršovanija, Otokara F-2/3Kišpatića, Mije H/I-2Klaića, Vjekoslava F-2Klanac D-2Kneza Borne C-1Kneza Trpimira F/G-2/3Kninska G-4Kolodvorska B-1/2Koranska E-3Korčulanska G/H-3Kornatska H-4Kovačića, Ivana Gorana G-3Kozjačka C-2Krajna D-3Kralja Petra Svačića G-2/3/4Kranjčevića, S. S. D-3Krapinsko naselje E-3Krbavska E-3Krčka G-3Krežme, Franje F-2Krndije C-2KrstovaH/I-1Kršnjavoga, Izidora D-2/3Kuhača, Franje F-2Kupska E-3Kutinska G-4Kvarnerska H-4LLabinska H-4Lađarska I-2Lanosavića, Marijana I-3Laslovačka G-4Lastovska H-3Ledine H-3Lička D-2Lipička G-4Livadića, Ferde G-3Lokrumska H-3/4Lonjska D-4Lopudska G-3Lošinjska H-4Lovranska H-4Lučki prilaz E-2LJLjubljanska G-3MMakarska H-4Markovića, Franje F-2Medulinska H-4Mihanovića, Antuna F-3MiholjačkaG-3/4Miljacka E-4MirnaD/E-4Mljetska H-3Mosorska C-2Mostarska I-2Motovunska H-4Mrežnička D-4Muckea, Franje G-2Murska F-3Murterska H-4NNaselje Ivana Česmičkog G-3Naselje Miroslava Krleže H-3Našička D-3Našičko naselje D-3Neretvanska E-3Neumana, Dragutina E-2Nova ulica G-2Novogradiška F-4NuštarskaG-3/4OOlibska H-3Opatijska H-4Orebićka H-4Orljavska G-4PPakračka G-4Palagruška H-3Pampas C-1Papuk gore C-2Paradžik, Ante D-2Park kneza Branimira F-2Park kralja Držislava F-2Park kralja P. Krešimira IV F-2Park kraljice K. Kosača H-2PaškaH-3/4Pašmanska H-4Pazinska H-3Pejačevića, Pavla D-2Pelješačka H-4Peradarnik D-5Perivoj kralja Tomislava F-2Petöfija Sandora B/C-1Pinterović, Danice F-2Piranska H-4Platačka C-2Plitvička I-4Plivska E-4Plješevačka B-2Podgoračka D-3Podravska D-2Podvinje D-3Poljski putC/D-2Porečka H-4Posavskog, Ljudevita C-2Požeška G-3Prenjska C-2Prijedorska G-4Primorska H-2Princa E. Savojskog G/H-2Prolaz Carla Bende E-2Prolaz Josipa Benešića E-2Prolaz Josipa Leovića E-3Prolaz Lorenza Jägera E-2Prolaz Matice hrvatske E-2Prolaz Vanje Radauša E-2Prominska C-2Psunjska C-3Pulska H-4Pustara Cimer H-5Pustara Šeper C-3RRadičevića, Branka H-2Radića, Stjepana E-2/3Ramska E-3Rapska H-3Raška E-5Reihl-Kira, Josipa G/H-3/4Reisnera, Adama D/E/F-3Ribarska E-2Riječka H-3Rijeke Dubrovačke D-4Rovinjska H-4Ružina D-2SSanska E-4SarajevskaI-2/3Sarvaška G-4Savska E-3Senjska H-3Sisačka G-4SjenjakF/G-3Skopska G-4Slatinska G-4Slaz D-1Sljemenska C-2Snježnička C-3Solarski trg D-1/2Splavarska D-1Splitska H-3SrijemskaH-3/4Stadionsko naselje F-4Starigradska H-4Stonska I-4Strma D-1Strossmayera, Josipa JurjaB/C/D/E-2Subotička G-4Sunčana E-2Sutlanska E-3Svete Ane D-2Svetog Josipa Radnika E-3Svetog Leopolda BogdanaMandića B/C/D- 3/4/5Svetog Petka H-2/3Svetog Roka D-2ŠŠamačka E-2Šetalište kard. F. ŠeperaE-2Šetalište Petra PreradovićaE-2Šibenička H-4Šimića, Antuna Branka I-2Širokobriješka G-4Školska E-2Šokačka C-2Šoltanska H-3TTijardovića, Ive H-2Tovarnička H-4Trebižatska E-4Trg Ante Starčevića E-2Trg Augusta Šenoe F-3Trg bana J. Jelačića H-3Trg baruna Trenka F-2Trg Ivana Pavla II E-2Trg Josipa Runjanina H-3Trg Jurja Križanića F-2Trg Lava Mirskog E-2Trg Lavoslava Ružičke E-3Trg Ljudevita Gaja E-2Trg Nikole Tesle H-2Trg slobode E-2Trg Svetog Trojstva F-2Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog F-2Trogirska H-3Trpanjska H-4Tvornička H-3Tvrđavica E-1UUčkaC-2/3Ugljanska H-4Ujevića, Tina D-2Ukrinska D-4Uske njive G-4VValpovačka G-4Varaždinska G-3Vatrogasna G-3/4Velaluška H-4VeličanskaD/E-4Vijenac Augusta Cesarca D-2Vijenac Dinare C-2Vijenac G. Zobundžije D-2Vijenac I. Meštrovića F/G-2/3Vijenac Ivana Mažuranića F-2Vijenac Jakova Gotovca E-2Vijenac Josipa Kozarca D-2Vijenac Kraljeve Sutjeske E-3Vijenac Ljube Babića D-2Vijenac Medvednice C-2Vijenac Murse H-3Vijenac Paje Kolarića E-2Vijenac Petrove gore C-2/3Vijenac Slavka Kolara H-2Vijenac Stanka Vraza D-3Vijenac Vladimira Nazora D-2Vijenac Vlahe Bukovca H-2Vinkovačka D/E-4Virovitička G-4Viška H-3Voćinska F-4Vodenička H-2Vrbaska E-3Vrt Jagode Truhelke E-2Vukanska D-3VukovarskaE/F-2WWaldingera, Adolfa D-2Wilsona, Woodrowa F-3/4ZZadarska E-2Zagorska G-3Zagrebačka F-2/3Zajca, Ivana G-3Zaostroška H-4ZlarinskaG-3/4Zoološki vrt D-1Zrinske gore C-2Zrinskog, Nikole Šubića G-3Zrinjevac E-3Zrmanjska E-3Zvečevska C-2ŽŽumberačka C-2Županijska E-22011 / 2012