Broad horizons Back to nature

64 Zadar county
Zadar county
65
Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well
equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to
windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand
at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike
route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just
east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby
resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just
south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since
Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock
of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and
birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain
for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets
more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a
peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a
nice break from the hubbub of the coast.
Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint
Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s
an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your
host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight
of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati
archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.
Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and
dare we say, Europe.
Tourist information
i
Biograd n/m Tourist Board Trg
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31
23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd.
hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Information on
activites and trips, and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Ancient Churches and Castles of
Zadar County
Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad
of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient
churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian
kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in
controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly
rich in castles and history. For millennia, the area that is
now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles
between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans
vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs.
the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the
Croats. Fortunately for the modern visitor, the only struggle
these days is deciding where to go sightseeing first! The sea,
hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop
to ancient buildings.
If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit
of the county, the first notable town encountered is Nin, 16
kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest
church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the
Holy Cross (Crkva svetog Križa). An inscription on the lintel
is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the
town, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas’s (Crkva svetog
Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an
ancient burial mound, it’s easy to spot. When the Ottoman
Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they
refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated top. It makes
the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians
drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas
was refortified again.
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Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2,
Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vransko-jezero@
zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer
to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake
Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors all day which
includes weekends.
Travel agencies
Val tours Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-
23) 38 64 79, val-tours@val-tours.hr, www.val-tours.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County.
Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies
on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag
Island to the north. Templar knights are believed to have built
Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a
clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or
west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local
inhabitants took shelter there. Later the castle featured
prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians.
As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way
to this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery
store in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road,
then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna
at the top of the hill. Follow that dirt road to Ljubač. It’s about
a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It’s not advisable
to drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it
would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not too far from Ljubač, on the
southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle
fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th
century, it’s just below the bridge from the mainland to Pag,
guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag’s barren
landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač.
The two are visible from each other, making one speculate
what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might
have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get
to Fortica by going north towards the town of Pag on route
106 from the Posedarje exit on the A1 motorway. Novigrad
(literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle
ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name,
also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before
them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of
the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been
modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on
the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km
east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front
line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387)
in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife
of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her
mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian
Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s
defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during
1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle
was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of
1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also
held the town for two years. There is another spectacular
view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins,
which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find
(again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that
ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the
stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around
10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle. Obrovac is another
hill top castle/fortress above a modern day town of the
same name. You can reach this small town easily from the
Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1. There
are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about
10-15 minutes to ascend the steep hill from the middle of
town to the castle. The stately Velebit
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Zadar In Your Pocket
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Summer 2011