Broad horizons Back to nature

68 Zadar county
Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built atop a
Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble
family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the
Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars
the Venetians overran the town, but the Turks reoccupied
it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under
the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bortolazzi, liberated
Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs
captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The
Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the town there is very little
evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles
worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km
south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac
exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town
with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family,
Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely
restored. It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac
has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and
governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th
century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They
held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took
over. It became a rural county district under the French
Paklenica National Park
The Paklenica National
Park lies just north
of Zadar within the
Ve l e b i t m o u n t a i n
range. Two streams,
the Velika and Mala
Paklenica, c a r ve
their way through the
soft limestone leaving
gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock
formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery
is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large
quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests
and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include
the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild
boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx.
The park is a favourite destination for hikers and
climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk
from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica
Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours),
though there are many more demanding routes. The
park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain
hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on
(+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.
hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on
www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s
entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number
of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.
Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a,
Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/
(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr,
www.paklenica.hr.
in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied
this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great
Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a
well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a
rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to
the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the
north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will
entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there.
You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on
route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to
the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private
homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When
the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and
cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel
track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At
a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore
others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and
see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a
stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek
through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof.
Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end
of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An
extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac’s
inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in
the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government
officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont
inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar
County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers
south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The
modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient,
ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the
remains of a church are clearly discernable.
Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a
Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was
a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town
to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana
came into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights
Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as
medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was
wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the
region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the
early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg
Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured
Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of
the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take
a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey
of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is
the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is
perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and
there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of
Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also
Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south.
When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main
road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved
road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing
the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can
drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that
ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located
at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians
fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post.
Because the site is
so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled
Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks
did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a
communications
tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere
somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because
of the great views. As you travel around the county you may
observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those
described above are the largest and most spectacular. The
fact that they were built for military reasons and changed
hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of
the Zadar area through the millennia.
Zadar In Your Pocket
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