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8 History
ZADAR DISTRICTs
9
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In the 15th century, internal fights within the Croatian-
Hungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia,
and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland
and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although
there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar
remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main
port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued -
this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.
In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and
Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by
the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress
in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and
culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague,
however, ravaged the city.
In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling
the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated
Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to
the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in
1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social
reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the
Austrians took the city back again in 1813.
The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next
hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways
progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved,
and the first modern city water system was completed in
1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of
national identity, began to press for linguistic and political
autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded
in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer
fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled,
giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade.
Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In
1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first
town in what is now Croatia.
In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the
1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of
Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast,
including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar
remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the
Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become
part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they
bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.
However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of
rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica
(or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town,
date back to this time. Industry developed and the population
expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the
1960s, the importance of tourism grew.
Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during
the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the
Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in
an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and
Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile
Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of
1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and
bombarded from positions further afield for most of the
duration of the war. The population was forced underground,
surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.
Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding
is now taking place in every sense.
Arbanasi
Arbanasi lies just to the north of Kolovare. It’s an old
district where remnants of Neolithic settlements can still
be found, as well as parts of the Roman aqueduct built to
bring water to the city from Vransko lake 40km away, and a
Roman necropolis in the grounds of the tobacco factory (still
working). Arbanasi was once a settlement in its own right.
It gained its name and its importance in the 18th century
when migrants from Albania settled there after fleeing from
the Turks. Today’s Arbanasi has a gentle, village feel. The
atmosphere is quite different from the rest of the city. It’s
worth a wander round to see how people live day by day away
from the tourist hubbub.
Borik and Diklo
A large complex of hotels and a campsite have evolved at
Borik, which have managed not to overwhelm the forces
of nature, so it’s still one of the most popular places for
tourists and locals alike to spend time at the beach. An
ever-growing number of cafes, bars and restaurants is
springing up to cater for the rising number of visitors, and
quite a bit of renovation is taking place at the moment, so
facilities are ever improving. Heading west from Borik is a
beach-lined coastal path studded with places to eat and
drink, surrounded by ever more peaceful residential areas
and the beach area of Diklo. It’s a quieter place to stay, to
relax and bathe.
Borik
Kolovare
Directly east of the Old Town peninsula is Kolovare, a genteel
district of beachside villas. Kolovare’s seafront is the old town
beach as well, and a popular place to spend free time. You
can walk all the way along the beatifically-named coast path
(Karma) to the promontory at Punta Bajlo and the adjoining
islet Sveti Klement, a former leper colony that is now a
bathing spot (eeew!) The way is tree-lined, so shady by day,
and punctuated by cafes. Near the beginning of the walk is
the Fontana, an attractive 16th century well with a cupola,
built by the Venetians for use by their naval fleets.
Old Town peninsula
It goes without saying, it’s the heart and soul of the city.
Crowded onto the peninsula, fortified in its entireity but
eternally under attack by foes through the ages, parts of
the city have been destroyed and rebuilt so many times over
three millennia that few places on Earth can rival it for its
eclectic mix of architecture.
As well as the dizzying number of churches, monasteries and
historical monuments, it’s also the commercial centre, with
an ever-increasing choice of boutiques and galleries, and,
of course, it’s the centre of social life and cafe society. The
main shopping street Široka (known locally as Kalelarga)
is a busy thoroughfare for people with things to do, even if
that’s only strolling in good company. In summer it’s crowded
with pavement cafes. It’s surrounded by shady parks on top
of the ancient fortifications. The outer promenade beyond
the ferry port, known as the Riva, is a relaxed place to stroll
and swim.
Puntamika
An area with quite some history dating back to Neolithic
settlements. It was an important defensive point because
geographically it guards the shipping entrance to the old town
- that’s why the city lighthouse is here. The coastal road is
bustling in summer, with cafes, restaurants and a marina.
Relja
Relja is just north-east of the peninsula. Notice, as you walk
northwards, some older builings. They are called Talijanke
(“the Italian girls”) because they were built during the times
the Italians ruled Zadar. Though somewhat unremarkable
from the outside, they are architecturally important with
twisting stairwells and pleasant courtyards. Relja now
has a shiny new indoor shopping centre full of boutiques
and cafes.
Voštarnica, Brodarica
Just over the footbridge and heading west, these districts
still constitute the commercial and residential heart of the
city. Continue a little further north and you’ll come to a
neighbourhood known as SAS after a former factory, and
you’ll find the Gotham entertainment complex with its club,
cafe and cinema next to the Nova Banka tower.
…Zadar created basketball
Croatians, giants as they are, are both accomplished
players and passionate followers of basketball (here
called košarka). Much as they love to follow the progress
of their tennis stars on the circuit and their footballing
heroes in the big European clubs, so they watch their countrymen
take on the best in the NBA, whilst netting huge
amounts of cash, model girlfriends and eventual hamstring
injuries. Krešimir Ćosić is perhaps Zadar’s bestknown
player – a mammoth statue in his image stands
guard over the entrance to
the Old Town, basketball
held in meditative awe. He
was the first European in
the NBA. This June, the
city (understandably)
went crazy when Zadar
beat Zagreb team Cibona
to win the Croatian
league for the first time
in 19 years.
Zadar In Your Pocket
zadar.inyourpocket.com
zadar.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011