Spring-Summer Pure Jersey Part 1 with adverts:jersey Cover AW
Spring-Summer Pure Jersey Part 1 with adverts:jersey Cover AW
Spring-Summer Pure Jersey Part 1 with adverts:jersey Cover AW
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For further information visit<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism<br />
Liberation Place<br />
St Helier<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE1 1BB<br />
Tel 01534 448877<br />
Fax 01534 448898<br />
email: info@<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
All information correct at time of print – November 2007<br />
Whilst every effort has been made to provide<br />
accurate information, the publishers can accept no<br />
responsibility for any errors or omissions. All rights<br />
reserved. Material in this publication must not be<br />
reproduced in any form <strong>with</strong>out permission from<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism.<br />
<strong>Spring</strong>/<strong>Summer</strong> 2008<br />
All at Sea<br />
Hazel Irvine<br />
The Car-Free Challenge<br />
Roger Thomas<br />
Occupation and Liberation<br />
Sue Cook<br />
The Island’s Unique ‘Moonwalk’<br />
Andy Stansfield<br />
Hotel Heaven<br />
Mary Anne Evans<br />
Plus…<br />
Attractions, shopping, spas, good food,<br />
accommodation, arts and crafts<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>
What’s your image of <strong>Jersey</strong>? Cows and cream teas?<br />
Bucket-and-spade beaches and traditional villages?<br />
We’re happy to say that we have them all in abundance. But they’re<br />
just one part of the <strong>Jersey</strong> story. We’ve moved on a bit from the<br />
times of Bergerac. Today’s island is a very cosmopolitan one, <strong>with</strong> a<br />
fast-paced activities scene, hip hotels and fantastic food.<br />
Our time-honoured beach cafés are still serving the freshest crab<br />
sandwiches on the planet. But they’ve been joined by new spa hotels,<br />
award-winning restaurants and buzzy bars.<br />
And please don’t think we’re English through and through. <strong>Jersey</strong> has a<br />
foot in both camps, British and continental – and, we like to think,<br />
takes what’s best from both of them.<br />
British reserve and Gallic flair, French road signs and country pubs,<br />
cream teas and croissants that actually taste like they were made in<br />
France, fabulous Breton-style beaches and a metropolitan city life…<br />
these are just a few of the ingredients in a mix that makes <strong>Jersey</strong> unique.<br />
So we can guarantee a few surprises. Having said that, we’re not that<br />
difficult to get to know. It’s quick and easy to get here. And when you<br />
arrive you’ll find an island of just 45 square miles packed <strong>with</strong> all kinds<br />
of sights, experiences and activities – from stunning coastal walks to<br />
clifftop castles, ‘wet and wild’ watersports to haunting memories of<br />
World War Two.<br />
Designed and published by:<br />
www.sheardhudson.com<br />
Photography: Aqua Splash, <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism,<br />
Paul Carpenter, Martin Huelin, Harbour Gallery<br />
and Studios, <strong>Jersey</strong> Lavender, Hotel de France<br />
and Andy Stansfield, Stuart Abraham<br />
pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Please recycle<br />
We ask that when you have finished <strong>with</strong> your<br />
copy of pure<strong>Jersey</strong>, you do your bit for the<br />
environment by either recycling it or passing it<br />
on to a friend.<br />
Inside pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
04<br />
08<br />
14<br />
17<br />
22<br />
PLEMONT BAY<br />
J’Aime <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Roger Thomas<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: The Art of Life –<br />
Good Food, Shopping and Spas<br />
Walking on the Moon<br />
Andy Stansfield<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Walking<br />
Life and Liberty<br />
Sue Cook<br />
26<br />
28<br />
30<br />
32<br />
36<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: History and Heritage<br />
Notes from a Small Island<br />
Roger Thomas<br />
Festival Island<br />
All at Sea<br />
Hazel Irvine<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Activity Island<br />
About pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Before I first visited <strong>Jersey</strong> I too had fallen into the trap. ‘A little bit of Britain, <strong>with</strong> nice<br />
beaches. Famous for cows and potatoes,’ I thought. Then I tasted the seafood for the first<br />
time. After which I walked the wild and wonderful north coast <strong>with</strong> not a soul in sight. The<br />
next day I went underground at the <strong>Jersey</strong> War Tunnels and was amazed. And later spent a<br />
lazy afternoon on the harbourside at Gorey, sipping wine and watching the boats slip by.<br />
This wasn’t the <strong>Jersey</strong> I’d expected. The hotels were stylish, <strong>with</strong> a smooth, easy ambience.<br />
The activities scene was positively buzzing <strong>with</strong> options from cycling to surfing. The<br />
shopping – like the island itself – was sophisticated and just a little intoxicating.<br />
So when it came to putting together pure<strong>Jersey</strong> we didn’t want to produce the usual<br />
predictable (and, let’s be honest, boring) holiday brochure. <strong>Jersey</strong> deserves better than<br />
that. pure<strong>Jersey</strong> is a magazine written by real people – not an advertising agency – <strong>with</strong><br />
real things to say on all kinds of subjects, from leisure to lifestyle. And, just to be helpful,<br />
we’ve also included lots of useful information for planning your short break or holiday.<br />
So please don’t come looking just for cows and cream teas…<br />
42<br />
46<br />
50<br />
54<br />
The Car-Free Challenge<br />
Roger Thomas<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Island Exploration –<br />
Bus Travel, Attractions and Places to<br />
Visit, Arts and Entertainment<br />
Living the Life<br />
Andy Stansfield/Roger Thomas<br />
So Accommodating<br />
Mary Anne Evans<br />
Roger Thomas Editor – pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
59<br />
60<br />
62<br />
63<br />
64<br />
Publications<br />
Accommodation List<br />
General Information<br />
Travelling to <strong>Jersey</strong> and<br />
Tour Operators<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Map<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 01
Island<br />
Snapshots<br />
Here’s an overview of <strong>Jersey</strong> and what’s included in<br />
the magazine. As you’ll see, for an island that measures<br />
just nine miles by five, it’s a place that thinks big…<br />
02 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
04 28 42<br />
Is the island British or French? Or both?<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> has surprisingly strong links<br />
<strong>with</strong> France. Roger Thomas delves into<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s roots – and takes a day trip to<br />
St Malo in the process. It’s all revealed<br />
on pages 4-7.<br />
Walking on water? Well, almost. The<br />
island’s huge tidal range reveals a weird<br />
and wonderful maritime ‘moonscape’<br />
of reefs and rocks. Follow in the<br />
(soggy) footsteps of outdoor writer<br />
Andy Stansfield on pages 14–16.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s personality has been forged by<br />
war as well as peace. The island’s<br />
World War Two Occupation is a<br />
compelling tale of hardship and<br />
endurance. All the more reason to<br />
celebrate Liberation Day, as presenter<br />
and author Sue Cook discovers on<br />
pages 22–25.<br />
Yellow telephone boxes, red squirrels,<br />
black butter and green lanes. All the<br />
things you didn’t know about <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
See pages 28–29.<br />
14 30 50<br />
It’s festival time. Actually, it always seems<br />
to be festival time in <strong>Jersey</strong>, thanks to a<br />
packed programme of events and<br />
entertainment involving everything from<br />
flowers to fêtes, seafaring to street<br />
theatre. For a taster see pages 30–31.<br />
22 32 54<br />
Islands off an island. That’s Les<br />
Ecrehous, a tiny archipelago off<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s north-east coast. Intrepid BBC<br />
TV sports reporter Hazel Irvine<br />
paddles her canoe to this magical spot<br />
on pages 32–35.<br />
Sit back, relax and explore <strong>Jersey</strong> the<br />
green way by bus. It’s good for your<br />
stress levels – and good for the planet<br />
too. The ‘Island Explorer’ ticket does just<br />
what is says on the can. Roger Thomas<br />
puts it to the test on pages 42–45.<br />
What’s it like to live and work in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>? We interview four prominent<br />
islanders – they’re involved in<br />
everything from lavender farming to<br />
protecting wildlife. See pages 50–53.<br />
You’ll like our hotels and self-catering.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s accommodation scene is as<br />
stylish as they come. Find out what<br />
Mary Anne Evans, Chairman of the<br />
British Guild of Travel Writers, thinks<br />
on pages 54–57.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 03
J’Aime<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
How French is <strong>Jersey</strong>? Is it British through and through?<br />
The answer to these questions reveals the true<br />
character of the island, as Roger Thomas finds out.<br />
I’d just eaten a deliciously flaky, buttery<br />
croissant for breakfast. I was now driving<br />
through the heart of the country along<br />
La Rue de l’Eglise. On the side of the road I<br />
passed a pink granite farmhouse, its slatted<br />
window shutters opened to let in the<br />
morning sun. It wasn’t long before I came<br />
to the entrance of La Mare Wine Estates.<br />
No, I wasn’t in France. I was driving on the<br />
left-hand side of the road, through the<br />
lanes of <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
There’s only a tiny soupçon of truth in the<br />
island’s genteel, Old School image. Cream<br />
teas, classic cars and a bucolic, blazered<br />
vision of an England remembered are no<br />
longer common currency in this<br />
cosmopolitan island. For a true view of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> you have to look north and south,<br />
for it’s an island – culturally as well as<br />
geographically – that straddles two nations.<br />
So is <strong>Jersey</strong> French or British? It’s neither. The<br />
island is a unique mix of the two – and that’s<br />
what gives it its identity, charisma and<br />
character. It’s a blend of British common<br />
sense and French flair, Breton-style seashores<br />
and traditional beach cafés, Norman farm<br />
buildings and modern cityscapes, Gallic<br />
seafood and good, old-fashioned sandwiches,<br />
alfresco terraces and country pubs,<br />
cappuccinos and… yes, cream teas.<br />
The French writer Victor Hugo described<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> as ‘pieces of France fallen into the<br />
sea and picked up by England’. A little<br />
history lesson is perhaps in order to reveal<br />
how it all came about. <strong>Jersey</strong> is not part of<br />
the United Kingdom but it owes allegiance<br />
to the crown. Its legislative assembly, the<br />
States of <strong>Jersey</strong>, is self-governing in internal<br />
matters, reliant on the UK government only<br />
for defence and overseas representation.<br />
And it’s not a part of the EU.<br />
Modern <strong>Jersey</strong>’s lineage goes back to the<br />
10th century when the Channel Islands were<br />
annexed by the Duke of Normandy. It<br />
subsequently became part of the Anglo-<br />
Norman realm after William the Conqueror<br />
won the Battle of Hastings. <strong>Jersey</strong>’s future<br />
path was determined in 1204 when King<br />
John lost Normandy to the French and the<br />
islanders had to choose between Normandy<br />
and the English crown. In opting for the latter<br />
they gained rights and privileges that to this<br />
day are not subject to the British parliament.<br />
So <strong>Jersey</strong> goes its own way. Which means<br />
everything from speed limits (just 15mph<br />
in its tranquil ‘Green Lanes’) to taxation,<br />
and local quirks like honorary (unpaid and<br />
non-uniformed) policemen and the<br />
‘branchage’, a twice-yearly ritual during<br />
which the roads are inspected to make sure<br />
hedgerows are cut back. If your hedge is<br />
too thick, expect a call from an honorary<br />
policeman. They have real policemen too,<br />
by the way.<br />
So don’t come to <strong>Jersey</strong> looking for a plain<br />
and simple English colony. I plunged deeper<br />
into the island’s identity when I met Geraint<br />
ST L<strong>AW</strong>RENCE GARDEN<br />
04 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 05
J’Aime<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
06 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Jennings of the Société Jersiaise, an<br />
organisation dedicated to studying and<br />
preserving all things <strong>Jersey</strong>. He explained<br />
how Jèrriais, the local ‘<strong>Jersey</strong> French’ dialect,<br />
is still spoken by around 3% of the island’s<br />
90,000 inhabitants, but almost 20%<br />
understand it.<br />
‘At one time <strong>Jersey</strong> was a trilingual island,<br />
speaking Jèrriais, French and English,’ he<br />
went on to explain. ‘French is still used as<br />
an administrative, legal and ceremonial<br />
language, a quarter of the population still<br />
speak it, and until 1959 we had a French<br />
language newspaper in the island.’<br />
You don’t have to delve too deep to see<br />
French influences elsewhere. Try any bistro<br />
chalkboard or restaurant menu for a start.<br />
It was a genuine revelation to me just how<br />
universally good the food is in <strong>Jersey</strong>, from<br />
humble beach kiosks to swanky Michelinstarred<br />
restaurants. I was staying at the<br />
newly refurbished Grand Hotel on St<br />
Helier’s seafront. This <strong>Jersey</strong> grande dame<br />
has recently been born again as a glossy<br />
celebrity thanks to a multi-million pound<br />
renaissance, and I think it won’t be long<br />
before there’s another <strong>Jersey</strong> entry in the<br />
esteemed Michelin guide.<br />
On my first night there I’d eaten at<br />
Victoria’s, an excellent, informal restaurant.<br />
But this was eclipsed by my gourmet<br />
experience the following evening. The<br />
Grand’s Tassili restaurant, a partnership<br />
<strong>with</strong> Albert Roux, one of the world’s leading<br />
French chefs, oozes style and sophistication.<br />
It’s chic and contemporary, <strong>with</strong> sleek<br />
service and food that lives up to the<br />
surroundings. I can still taste the seared<br />
scallops and langoustine <strong>with</strong> green pea<br />
purée I had as a starter. The fillet of turbot<br />
<strong>with</strong> almond clams and parsley jus that<br />
followed was pretty sensational too.<br />
At the other end of the scale, I found a<br />
whole crab for sale for a bargain £1.95 in<br />
St Helier’s Fish Market. And I’ve become an<br />
enduring fan of those retro beach cafés<br />
you see everywhere selling fresh crab<br />
sandwiches for less than you’ll pay for<br />
mass-produced supermarket stodge.<br />
There are local specialities too. Bean Crock<br />
(Un Piot et des Pais au Fou) is a <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
adaptation of the French dish cassoulet<br />
using beans and pigs’ trotters. It’s often on<br />
the menu at Hamptonne, a country life<br />
museum based at a large, rambling farm<br />
complex <strong>with</strong> buildings from many centuries,<br />
including Langlois, a house very similar to<br />
those in medieval Brittany.<br />
Hamptonne is deep in the country on the<br />
way to La Mare WIne Estates. <strong>Jersey</strong> makes<br />
the most of the fact that it’s on the same<br />
latitude as northern France by having its<br />
very own, bona fide award-winning<br />
vineyard. It’s here that I met Tim Crowley,<br />
the dynamo behind La Mare. ‘It’s classed as<br />
a French, not English vineyard,’ he explained.<br />
‘Our biggest grape variety is pinot noir,<br />
which of course is a very famous northern<br />
French variety.’<br />
They make cider and brandy too. ‘Cider<br />
is much easier to make than wine,’ admitted<br />
Tim. You can see it all for yourself on a guided<br />
tour of this immaculate vineyard and winery.<br />
BEACH CAFÉS, A JERSEY SPECIALITY THE SEAFOOD IS SUPERB SETTING OFF FOR ST MALO<br />
The views from <strong>Jersey</strong> are another<br />
reminder of how closely intertwined the<br />
island has always been <strong>with</strong> its French<br />
neighbour. Go to the east coast and you’ll<br />
see the Cherbourg peninsula, clearly visible<br />
just 18 miles across the water. In fact,<br />
France is such a short hop away that it’s<br />
easy to build it into a day trip as part of a<br />
visit to <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
There’s a roaring trade in day visits to<br />
St Malo and other French ports, as<br />
I discovered when my wife Liz and I took<br />
the busy 8.45am Condor Ferry from<br />
St Helier. In just over an hour we were<br />
sitting in Place Chateaubriand, snug<br />
<strong>with</strong>in St Malo’s tall, fortified walls,<br />
enjoying a café crème.<br />
St Malo’s the perfect day trip destination.<br />
All you could possibly want to see and do<br />
are <strong>with</strong>in or just outside the walls, so it’s<br />
easy to explore on foot. For fabulous views<br />
of sky and sea do as we did and take the<br />
wall walk encircling the town. Then drop<br />
down to street level to the shops and cafés<br />
and follow passageways between sober,<br />
grey-stoned buildings topped by upper<br />
stories in vibrant, doll’s house colours. And,<br />
in a town where you’re never far from a<br />
restaurant or three, you must grab a table<br />
on the terrace and enjoy a glass of wine<br />
and a dish of moules.<br />
The boat left at 5.30pm. In another hour or<br />
so we were back in the Grand’s Champagne<br />
Lounge, sipping the bubbly stuff and<br />
pondering the fact that France and <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
are closer than you might think – in more<br />
ways than one.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 07
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: The Art of Life – Good Food, Shopping and Spas<br />
A Weekend Away<br />
On their visit Roger and Liz Thomas<br />
stayed at the Grand Hotel, The<br />
Esplanade, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE4 8WD.<br />
This long-established hotel has new<br />
owners and a new look. It has been<br />
restored to its former glory – but <strong>with</strong> a<br />
bold, modern twist. Adventurous interior<br />
design has given the Grand a fresh<br />
personality very much in tune <strong>with</strong><br />
today’s tastes.<br />
Tel 01534 722301<br />
www.grand<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Michelin Stars<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> boasts two Michelin-starred<br />
restaurants.<br />
Bohemia, The Club Hotel and Spa,<br />
St Helier<br />
A smart, contemporary ambience to<br />
match the original, accomplished and<br />
contemporary cooking. Offers real<br />
comfort and superb service <strong>with</strong>out<br />
formality, together <strong>with</strong> some of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
finest food based on the specialities of<br />
its island home. Also awarded four AA<br />
Rosettes and ranked by Egon Ronay<br />
amongst the UK’s top 25 restaurants.<br />
Tel 01534 880588<br />
www.bohemia<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
The Ocean Restaurant, Atlantic Hotel,<br />
St Brelade<br />
Located on the dramatic west coast,<br />
this exceptional fine-dining restaurant<br />
showcases modern British cooking in a<br />
classic setting <strong>with</strong> the emphasis on<br />
fresh <strong>Jersey</strong> produce. Ocean’s design is<br />
influenced by its coastal setting, which<br />
commands stunning views over the<br />
garden to the sea beyond. Also awarded<br />
three AA Rosettes.<br />
Tel 01534 744101<br />
www.theatlantichotel.com<br />
08 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
A Matter of Taste<br />
Food simply tastes better in <strong>Jersey</strong>. Perhaps it’s something to do<br />
<strong>with</strong> the freshness and quality of the seafood, or the island’s<br />
farming heritage, or its close proximity to France. Whatever the<br />
reason, there’s a uniform commitment right across the island to<br />
serving good food, whether at a plain-and-simple beach café or<br />
five-star hotel.<br />
Windmill<br />
Bistro<br />
Longueville Manor<br />
The Boathouse The Royal<br />
Yacht<br />
Salty Dog<br />
Bar and Bistro<br />
Castle Green<br />
Gastropub<br />
Restaurant Round-up<br />
To whet your appetite, here are a few<br />
of the island’s many outstanding places<br />
to eat.<br />
The Boathouse Restaurant and Bar,<br />
St Aubin<br />
Fresh local cuisine is a speciality at this<br />
stylish place, a contemporary glassand-timber<br />
building <strong>with</strong> large terraced<br />
areas. Terrific views of the sea, harbour<br />
and boats.<br />
Tel 01534 744226<br />
Castle Green Gastropub, Gorey<br />
Some of the finest pub food in <strong>Jersey</strong>,<br />
using the best local produce – including<br />
superb seafood – accompanied by an<br />
excellent wine list. Comfortable and<br />
welcoming, <strong>with</strong> a casual atmosphere<br />
and views of Grouville Bay and Mont<br />
Orgueil Castle.<br />
Tel 01534 840218<br />
Longueville Manor, St Saviour<br />
A Taste of Excellence. Longueville Manor<br />
consistently attracts accolades for its<br />
outstanding food and service, including<br />
three prestigious rosettes. Fine dining of<br />
the highest standard, <strong>with</strong> home-grown<br />
herbs, vegetables and fruit from its<br />
own walled kitchen garden.<br />
Tel 01534 725501<br />
www.longuevillemanor.com<br />
Salty Dog Bar and Bistro, St Aubin<br />
Stylish surroundings in a harbourside<br />
setting. The menu boasts a great<br />
selection of New World cuisine dishes<br />
using the very best Genuine <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
produce, fresh local and international<br />
seafood. Reservations recommended.<br />
Tel 01534 742760<br />
Windmill Bistro, Bar and Restaurant,<br />
St Mary<br />
Specialises in Mediterranean-style<br />
dishes, <strong>with</strong> fresh local seafood<br />
prominent on the menu (along, of<br />
course, <strong>with</strong> meat and vegetarian<br />
choices). Also offers children’s menus,<br />
lighter snacks and home-made cakes,<br />
plus the famous ‘Illy’ coffee served in<br />
iconic cups.<br />
Tel 01534 483888<br />
The Royal Yacht, St Helier<br />
This remodelled hotel is a sleek new<br />
addition to St Helier’s waterfront.<br />
Fresh and fashionable Café Zephyr<br />
is the place to be seen for alfresco<br />
eating from a brasserie menu. Chic<br />
and sophisticated Restaurant Sirocco<br />
has wonderful waterfront views<br />
from the terrace.<br />
Tel 01534 720511<br />
www.theroyalyacht.com<br />
A Foodie Events<br />
17 May, Gorey Fête de la Mer<br />
Set in the shadow of magnificent Mont<br />
Orgueil Castle, Gorey serves up a delicious<br />
array of traditional seafood. Come along<br />
and enjoy alfresco dining and entertainment<br />
on the waterfront.<br />
5th - 6th July, Out of the Blue Maritime<br />
Festival, St Helier<br />
Come along and enjoy a spectacular<br />
Maritime extravaganza around St Helier<br />
harbour. Enjoy street theatre, an al fresco<br />
food fair and sea shanties. Visiting Norman<br />
traders from nearby France will also be<br />
selling Soup de Poisson, Crepes, Calvados<br />
and other 'fruits of the sea'.<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/food<br />
Made in <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Produce<br />
Our prized <strong>Jersey</strong> Royal potatoes aren’t the<br />
only crop. Lots of vegetables are grown here,<br />
including bell peppers, broccoli, courgettes,<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Royale tomatoes and rare varieties of<br />
mushroom. You’ll taste the freshness – there<br />
are at least three <strong>Jersey</strong> vegetable crops in<br />
season whatever time of year you visit.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Cows<br />
You’ll see our most famous residents<br />
everywhere. They’re not just a pretty face.<br />
It’s because of <strong>Jersey</strong> cows that we have<br />
tasty local treats like wonderful rich milk,<br />
cream and butter, ice-creams, yoghurt,<br />
crème fraiche and organic milk.<br />
Seafood<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s clear waters, warmed by the Gulf<br />
Stream, produce an abundance of topquality<br />
shellfish including crabs, lobsters,<br />
scallops and oysters. Around 200 tonnes of<br />
oysters are produced each year, <strong>with</strong> 90%<br />
exported to France – but don’t worry,<br />
there’s plenty for local consumption. You<br />
can also enjoy simple, sea-fresh dishes like<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> plaice, sea bass and mackerel.<br />
Longueville Manor<br />
The only Relais & Châteaux hotel in<br />
the Channel Islands, this 14th-century<br />
manor house is widely regarded as<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>'s leading country house hotel,<br />
much admired by not only a loyal<br />
customer following, but travel writers<br />
and food critics alike. Each of the<br />
30 bedrooms or suites is individually<br />
designed and decorated, combining the<br />
feel of a bygone day together <strong>with</strong> the<br />
ultimate in modern luxury.<br />
Longueville Manor<br />
Longueville Road<br />
St Saviour<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 7WF<br />
Tel 01534 725501<br />
Fax 01534 731613<br />
email: info@longuevillemanor.com<br />
www.longuevillemanor.com
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: The Art of Life – Good Food, Shopping and Spas<br />
Shopping in <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
St Helier’s the Place<br />
The island’s capital is home to an intriguing<br />
mix of shops. Sophisticated and traditional<br />
shopping sit happily side-by-side in the<br />
attractive centre, where pedestrianised<br />
thoroughfares are lined <strong>with</strong> well-known<br />
High Street stores and smaller local shops.<br />
There’s also a splendid Victorian vegetable<br />
market and fish market, together <strong>with</strong> a<br />
great choice of cafés and restaurants – all<br />
of which provide a relaxed ambience for<br />
browsing and buying.<br />
St Helier’s Markets<br />
The Central Market has long been a source<br />
of pride to the people of <strong>Jersey</strong>. Between<br />
them, the 36 market stalls cover almost<br />
every retail experience – everything from<br />
antiques to flowers, fresh vegetables to<br />
jewellery. If you can’t find what you want<br />
here then you have to ask the question: do<br />
you really need it?<br />
Opening times: 7.30am–5.30pm<br />
Monday–Saturday (but closes at<br />
2pm Thursdays)<br />
Tel 01534 448180<br />
The more modern Beresford Market (or<br />
Fish Market as it is more commonly<br />
known) is justly popular for its high-quality<br />
produce and the atmosphere generated by<br />
its hard-working fishmongers.<br />
Opening times: 7.30am–5.30pm<br />
Monday–Saturday<br />
Tel 01534 448180<br />
Department Stores<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> is well served by two main local<br />
department stores. While each may<br />
consider the other a rival, both have<br />
thrived and grown over the years.<br />
HARBOUR GALLERY<br />
10 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
A De Gruchy & Co Ltd, King Street and<br />
New Street, St Helier<br />
A fashion and furnishing store. Established<br />
on its present site in 1825, it’s synonymous<br />
<strong>with</strong> High Street shopping in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
Tel 01534 818818<br />
Voisins Department Store, King Street,<br />
St Helier<br />
A family-owned independent retailer<br />
offering contemporary, high-quality<br />
products in a welcoming and inspiring<br />
environment.<br />
Tel 01534 837100<br />
www.voisins.com<br />
And Call in at…<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Pottery Gifts and Flowers,<br />
Halkett Place, St Helier<br />
A spin-off from the world-famous <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Pottery at Gorey. Stocks Genuine <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
products and a tempting range of<br />
craftware from the pottery. See ‘Out of<br />
Town’ on this page for further information.<br />
Tel 01534 725315<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>pottery.com<br />
Maison La Mare, King Street, St Helier<br />
Known locally as The Genuine <strong>Jersey</strong> Store,<br />
this boutique-style store offers a large<br />
choice of quality local products including<br />
luxury hand-made <strong>Jersey</strong> chocolates, La<br />
Mare Estate wines, spirits and cider, local<br />
preserves, <strong>Jersey</strong> Black Butter and Genuine<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> fudge. Also showcases other Genuine<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> products including lavender, pottery,<br />
arts and crafts. Please see the ‘Island<br />
Exploration’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file for more information<br />
on La Mare Wine Estate, St Mary.<br />
Tel 01534 733090<br />
www.maisonlamare.com<br />
Shopmobility<br />
This scheme operates from the lower<br />
floor of St Helier’s Sand Street car<br />
park. Electric scooters and chairs and<br />
manual pushchairs are available<br />
10am–4.30pm Monday–Saturday.<br />
Prior booking is preferred but not<br />
necessary.<br />
Tel 01534 739672 or<br />
07797 736797<br />
www.shopmobility.org.je<br />
Opening Times<br />
Most shops in <strong>Jersey</strong> are open<br />
between Monday and Saturday<br />
although some close on various days<br />
during the week. Shops are not<br />
allowed to open on a Sunday in <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
due to Trading Laws. This law is<br />
occasionally lifted for special occasions.<br />
Out of Town<br />
Shopping in <strong>Jersey</strong> isn’t just confined to the<br />
capital. Large craft and retail centres are<br />
popular attractions and shopping<br />
destinations in their own right – and even<br />
the farms get in on the act.<br />
Bouchet Agateware Pottery, St Ouen<br />
Created by local potter Tony Bouchet, this<br />
stunning and unique pottery is made to<br />
resemble semi-precious agate stones. Items,<br />
sold only in his studio, include vases, bells,<br />
plates, boxes and thimbles. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 482345<br />
www.agateware.co.uk<br />
Farm Shops, Honesty Boxes<br />
Honesty boxes offering fruit, vegetables<br />
and cut flowers dot the island, a<br />
reminder of yesteryear and a<br />
remarkable example of how islanders<br />
still have faith in their customers paying<br />
for what they take. There are also many<br />
farm shops where you can buy<br />
vegetables, preserves, freshly baked<br />
bread and other delicacies.<br />
Catherine Best Jewellery, St Peter<br />
This award-winning jewellery business<br />
offers classic jewellery <strong>with</strong> a modern feel.<br />
Catherine’s work is known worldwide – see<br />
it in showrooms housed in a landmark<br />
windmill building. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 485777<br />
www.catherinebest.com<br />
Harbour Gallery and Studios, St Aubin<br />
One of the island’s leading arts and crafts<br />
centres, <strong>with</strong> galleries, original paintings,<br />
sculpture, textiles, photography, designer<br />
fashion, <strong>Jersey</strong> soap, <strong>Jersey</strong> Woodturners,<br />
working artists’ studios, regular exhibitions,<br />
café and children’s activities. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 743044<br />
www.mnlg.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Goldsmiths, St Lawrence<br />
Each year over 200,000 visitors come to<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Goldsmiths’ world of gold and<br />
gemstones, set amongst Lion Park’s<br />
beautiful lake and gardens. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 482098<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>goldsmiths.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Pearl, St Ouen<br />
The largest collection of quality pearl<br />
jewellery in the Channel Islands, ranging<br />
from the cleverly crafted to the beautifully<br />
cultured. Open all year (except January).<br />
Tel 01534 862137<br />
www.worldpearl.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Pottery, Gorey<br />
A pottery that has grown from a cottage<br />
industry to global retailer. The site includes<br />
a showroom <strong>with</strong> over 600 <strong>Jersey</strong> Pottery<br />
Genuine <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Genuine <strong>Jersey</strong> is a non-profit making<br />
association created to generate<br />
awareness of those products that have<br />
a sufficiently strong <strong>Jersey</strong> content to<br />
be labelled genuinely ‘local’. It applies to<br />
a wide and wonderful range of goods<br />
that use local ingredients and local<br />
skills. Look out for the Genuine <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
logo when you’re out and about.<br />
Tel 01534 735253<br />
www.genuine<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Hertz Rent-a-Car<br />
Hertz <strong>Jersey</strong> offer a complete<br />
range of new Ford vehicles from<br />
the Ford Ka to the seven-seater<br />
Ford Galaxy, together <strong>with</strong> a<br />
varied fleet of convertibles.<br />
Hertz is based at the Arrivals Hall at <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Airport <strong>with</strong> cars on site – no waiting – no<br />
transfers. Our representatives are there to<br />
help you and get you on your way in next<br />
to no time.<br />
Hertz also offers free hotel and harbour<br />
delivery and collection, island and town<br />
maps and a 24-hour breakdown service.<br />
For a booking or brochure<br />
request phone the freephone<br />
number 0800 735 1014 or<br />
the website: www.hertzci.com<br />
lines, gifts, a pottery museum and the<br />
popular ‘Glaze Craze’ do-it-yourself<br />
painting studio. Visitors can see all stages<br />
of production from throwing to hand<br />
decoration by skilled artists. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 850850<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>pottery.com<br />
La Mare Wine Estate, St Mary<br />
Please see ‘Island Exploration’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
Hertz<br />
Alares House<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Airport<br />
St Peter<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 7BP<br />
Tel 01534 63666<br />
Fax 01534 634997<br />
email: res@hertz-<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk<br />
www.hertzci.com<br />
FREEPHONE 0800 735 1014
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: The Art of Life – Good Food, Shopping and Spas<br />
Spa Breaks<br />
Treat yourself to an island escape. <strong>Jersey</strong> is a wonderful destination in which to relax and recharge<br />
those batteries – especially if you take a soothing spa break.<br />
The Club Hotel and Spa, St Helier<br />
This boutique hotel is chic and<br />
contemporary – and, as you’d expect, the<br />
Club Spa is state of the art. You can swim<br />
in the salt pool or simply sit and enjoy the<br />
hydrotherapy bench before beginning a<br />
thermal treatment (there’s a choice of salt<br />
cabin, herbal steam room or sauna),<br />
followed by the experience shower<br />
(guaranteed to revive and invigorate). In<br />
the rasul room you can smooth cleansing<br />
mineral mud over body and face. The spa<br />
relaxation room, <strong>with</strong> its soft lighting,<br />
herbal refreshments and luxurious loungers,<br />
does just what it says, while every<br />
imaginable therapy is available at the<br />
treatment suite.<br />
Tel 01534 876500<br />
www.club<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
L’Horizon Hotel and Spa, St Brelade’s Bay<br />
This magnificently located hotel overlooks<br />
St Brelade’s wide, sandy beach. The spa<br />
complex includes an indoor saltwater<br />
swimming pool, spa pool, sauna, steam<br />
12 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
room, treatment rooms and fully equipped<br />
gym. It’s a haven of relaxation dedicated to<br />
well-being – pamper yourself <strong>with</strong><br />
luxurious beauty treatments, work out in<br />
the gym, or simply step outside straight<br />
onto one of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s finest beaches.<br />
Tel 01534 743101<br />
www.handpicked.co.uk/lhorizon<br />
Hotel de France, St Helier<br />
This elegant hotel’s stunning new spa is the<br />
perfect escape from everyday life. Unwind<br />
at the calming indoor infinity pools, hot and<br />
cold plunge pools, hydrotherapy pools and<br />
large jet pool. The spa is bathed in warm<br />
natural light from the wall of windows<br />
opening onto landscaped gardens and<br />
terraces. Other facilities include a mosaic<br />
tiled oval steam room, wooden sauna,<br />
fitness gym and treatment rooms.<br />
Tel 01534 614000<br />
www.defrance.co.uk<br />
Les Roches, St Ouen<br />
This luxury health spa has an indoor pool<br />
and four treatment rooms as well as an<br />
outdoor yoga pavilion. Extensive beauty<br />
treatments are available along <strong>with</strong><br />
therapies such as reflexology, reiki,<br />
hydrotherm massage and hot stone<br />
therapy. The complex, set in large, peaceful<br />
grounds, is a wonderful retreat from the<br />
stresses and strains of everyday life.<br />
Tel 01534 487856<br />
www.lesroches.co.uk<br />
The Royal Yacht, St Helier<br />
The hotel’s dazzling £30-million makeover<br />
has given it a fresh, 21st-century presence<br />
and personality. The hotel also boasts a<br />
new luxury spa. Stylish, relaxing Spa Sirène<br />
includes a hydrotherapy bath, steam mud<br />
rasul, full thermal suite <strong>with</strong> sauna, steam<br />
room, aromatherapy steam room, monsoon<br />
shower, ice-cold bucket shower, vitality<br />
pool, Jacuzzi and fully equipped gym. It<br />
uses Phytomer products.<br />
Tel 01534 720511<br />
www.theroyalyacht.com<br />
Hotel de France<br />
Family owned for 40 years, the 4-Star<br />
Hotel de France has a reputation for<br />
friendly but professional service<br />
combined <strong>with</strong> superb cuisine and<br />
extensive leisure facilities.<br />
The 283 bedroomed Hotel has three bars<br />
and a choice of restaurants – the à la carte<br />
Gallery Restaurant, the more informal Café<br />
Aroma or in the summer the ‘alfresco’<br />
barbeque on the terrace.<br />
The stunning ‘Ayush Wellness Spa’, an<br />
ayurvedic spa <strong>with</strong> both Indian and western<br />
therapists opened in 2006. There is also a<br />
fitness centre and hair and beauty salon.<br />
SPA AT HOTEL DE FRANCE<br />
Hotel de France<br />
St Saviours Road<br />
St Helier<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE1 7XP<br />
Tel 01534 614100<br />
Fax 01534 614299<br />
email: reservations@defrance.co.uk<br />
www.defrance.co.uk
Walking on the<br />
Moon<br />
In the late 18th and early 19th centuries<br />
fortified towers were constructed around<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s coastline as defences against the<br />
French. One of the earliest, Seymour Tower,<br />
is perched on a granite rock one-and-a-half<br />
miles offshore – but the sea only surrounds<br />
it for some of the time. <strong>Jersey</strong>’s 30–40ft<br />
tides are amongst the highest in the world.<br />
They’re so big that the island almost<br />
doubles in size at low tide, revealing a<br />
remarkable marine environment of sand<br />
bars, gullies and reefs around Seymour<br />
Tower that can be explored on foot.<br />
This strange, unearthly no-man’s-land<br />
shared by shore and sea is reminiscent of<br />
the moon’s surface. ‘Moonwalking’ has<br />
become something of <strong>Jersey</strong> speciality. In<br />
the company of a guide you can take a<br />
three-hour trip into a watery wilderness<br />
that, for several hours a day, is covered by<br />
40ft of Atlantic Ocean. But my Moonwalk<br />
was even more special since it included<br />
spending the night at Seymour Tower. It’s in<br />
a unique spot. The area around the tower is<br />
a RAMSAR site, a wetland designated as<br />
being of international importance based on<br />
a treaty signed at Ramsar, Iran in 1971.<br />
My advance briefing <strong>with</strong> walk leader and<br />
guide Derek Hairon from <strong>Jersey</strong> Kayak and<br />
Walk Adventures left me in little doubt that<br />
one of us had been touched by madcap lunar<br />
influences. I just wasn’t sure if it was him or<br />
me as we stood by the sea wall at La Roque<br />
an hour or so after high tide, looking out<br />
towards a distant square tower jutting tooth-<br />
14 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
like from the waves. Between it and us it lay<br />
one thing: a million gallons of salt water.<br />
But as we chatted about the kit required<br />
for the walk, I suddenly became aware of<br />
new patterns in the seascape. Already, 20<br />
or 30 pinnacles of rock had become visible.<br />
Then, in what seemed like a matter of<br />
moments, a whole new landscape<br />
appeared. I now found myself looking at an<br />
emerging mass of shingle banks and gullies,<br />
giant rock outcrops and water-filled pools.<br />
The speed <strong>with</strong> which the tide was<br />
receding was barely credible.<br />
Derek explained that the tide drops by<br />
around 20ft in three hours. No wonder the<br />
vista before me was changing so rapidly.<br />
The penny dropped too: it dawned on me<br />
that the reverse is also true – that an<br />
incoming tide can rise at the same rate.<br />
This rock-strewn maritime moonscape is<br />
not a place to be meddled <strong>with</strong> in a sea<br />
mist in the hours after low tide. I didn’t<br />
need to ask Derek for confirmation. He<br />
could see from the look on my face that I<br />
had understood. He just nodded.<br />
And pointed. A couple of hundred yards to<br />
the left of the tower stood a tall pole <strong>with</strong><br />
a small platform at its summit, ladders on<br />
two sides and the whole structure<br />
anchored by steel cables. It’s a rescue<br />
beacon that’s high enough to allow you sit<br />
out a 40ft tide – but only just, although<br />
you may get your feet wet. Despite the<br />
spring sunshine, I shivered at the thought.<br />
SEYMOUR TOWER IN JERSEY'S 'MOONSCAPE', CUT OFF AT HIGH TIDE<br />
Outdoor writer and photographer Andy Stansfield has<br />
been to some strange places in his time. But none sticks<br />
in the mind like the unique ‘moonscape’ that reveals itself<br />
along <strong>Jersey</strong>’s south-east coast at low tide.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 15
Walking on the<br />
Moon<br />
Calamities are, thankfully, very rare due to<br />
plentiful warning notices and an immense<br />
local respect for this tidal phenomenon.<br />
That didn’t stop two ladies out horse riding<br />
in the bay who, despite years of local<br />
knowledge, were suddenly enveloped in sea<br />
fog as the tide turned and nightfall<br />
approached. Luckily, they came upon<br />
Seymour Tower and rode their panicstricken<br />
horses up the granite steps. All<br />
survived, but not <strong>with</strong>out a complex rescue<br />
mission as the horses weren’t inclined to<br />
leave the tower at low tide.<br />
When we set off it soon became obvious<br />
that walking in a straight line to Seymour<br />
Tower is impossible. From the shoreline at<br />
La Roque picking out a route looked<br />
straightforward enough, but the reality was<br />
very different. Our guide took us on a<br />
winding route through gullies and pools,<br />
some still knee-deep in water, picking his<br />
way though a complex, confusing maze of<br />
rocks and reefs. Down here it was all too<br />
easy to see how you could be cut off by an<br />
advancing tide as it swiftly filled one gully<br />
after another.<br />
We walked across rocks still glistening wet<br />
and poked around in rock pools brightened<br />
by red granite, scallop shells and varieties<br />
of slippery seaweed. Derek stopped from<br />
time to time to explain everything from the<br />
mating habits of limpets to the history<br />
16 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
behind the occasional letter ‘P’ found on<br />
rocks (it denoted the ancient fishing and<br />
seaweed-collecting rights of the Payne<br />
family). When we reached the rescue beacon,<br />
20ft above us there was seaweed snagged<br />
on its supporting cables, a stark reminder of<br />
the forces at work here every 12 hours.<br />
We were soon approaching Seymour Tower.<br />
Home sweet home for tonight at least. The<br />
tower, which sleeps 10, mightn’t boast all<br />
mod cons but it came <strong>with</strong> essential safety<br />
equipment including a radio transceiver,<br />
flares and lanterns, plus a range of basic<br />
amenities: a chemical toilet, gas cooker,<br />
crockery and cutlery, and lighting powered<br />
by two solar panels on the roof.<br />
Estate agents would describe the<br />
accommodation as having ‘rustic charm’<br />
but it was a far cry from the comfort of the<br />
Samarès Coast Hotel and its attentive staff<br />
who were my hosts for the ‘mainland’<br />
portion of my stay in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
But the views were more dramatic, the<br />
company excellent and the food wholesome.<br />
All supplies must be taken <strong>with</strong> you along<br />
<strong>with</strong> a sleeping bag and toiletries. We<br />
managed splendidly, concocting a wonderful<br />
evening meal of stuffed red peppers <strong>with</strong><br />
Derek’s home-grown <strong>Jersey</strong> Royal potatoes,<br />
followed by an assortment of cakes and<br />
biscuits plus a few bottles of beer.<br />
VIEW FROM SEYMOUR TOWER HOME COMFORTS AT SEYMOUR SEYMOUR TOWER<br />
And who needs a TV when the early<br />
evening’s entertainment was provided by<br />
the encroaching tide washing over our<br />
footprints until, at around 7pm, it reached<br />
almost to the top of the steps to the<br />
tower? As darkness fell it was time to<br />
retreat inside to enjoy the rich camaraderie<br />
that such experiences tend to foster.<br />
Upstairs were the bunk beds for when the<br />
evening’s tales of local history and<br />
childhood adventures finally dried up or<br />
eyelids got too heavy.<br />
But there was one last surprise. Thirty<br />
minutes before the witching hour Derek set<br />
off back towards the shore in the dark. His<br />
mission? To escort daughter Krista over to<br />
the tower during the night’s low tide, laden<br />
<strong>with</strong> bacon, eggs, mushrooms and fresh<br />
tomatoes for breakfast.<br />
When they appeared half an hour or so<br />
after midnight Derek called me down to<br />
the shingle bank below. Pitch black and<br />
my night vision being slow to attune, I<br />
couldn’t see a thing. Then, suddenly, I<br />
picked up a tiny phosphorescent glow,<br />
almost like a permanent soft blue spark.<br />
Then another, and another. Five minutes<br />
later, my eyes now adjusted to the dark, I<br />
could see that I was surrounded by the<br />
tiny flickering blue-white lights of bioluminescent<br />
plankton as if the wet shingle<br />
were lit up for Christmas.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Walking<br />
Moonwalk from<br />
the Mainland<br />
Andy Stansfield went moonwalking to<br />
Seymour Tower <strong>with</strong> <strong>Jersey</strong> Walk<br />
Adventures. For the full programme of<br />
walks please see the website.<br />
Tel 01534 853138 or 07797 853033<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>walkadventures.co.uk<br />
Back on dry land he stayed at Samarès<br />
Coast Hotel, Coast Road, St Clement,<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 6FF. It’s an attractive, airy<br />
hotel <strong>with</strong> two swimming pools, a spa<br />
pool and prize-winning gardens.<br />
Tel 01534 873006<br />
www.morvanhotels.com<br />
Morvan Hotels<br />
Morvan Hotels is <strong>Jersey</strong>’s most<br />
diverse hotel group. Six quality hotels<br />
offer you a choice of indoor leisure<br />
facilities, superb award-winning gardens,<br />
seafront or town centre locations, Victorian<br />
town house, more contemporary or<br />
traditional <strong>Jersey</strong> granite architecture,<br />
hotels or self-catering apartments – the<br />
choice is truly yours.<br />
Locally owned and run by the Morvan<br />
family, long established hoteliers, whose<br />
hotels have a proven record for friendly<br />
professional hospitality and also hold an<br />
‘Investor in People’ award.<br />
Real-time on-line booking available and<br />
special internet rates. Visit:<br />
www.morvanhotels.com<br />
Best Western Royal Hotel<br />
Monterey Hotel<br />
Samarès Coast Hotel and Apartments<br />
Fort d’Auvergne Hotel<br />
Uplands Hotel and Apartments<br />
Norfolk Lodge Hotel<br />
Rouge Bouillon House<br />
St Helier<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 3ZB<br />
Tel 01534 873006<br />
Fax 01534 768804<br />
email: bookings@morvanhotels.com<br />
www.morvanhotels.com<br />
SEYMOUR TOWER UNDER MOONLIGHT
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Walking<br />
St Peter’s<br />
Country Inn<br />
The Rozel Bar and Restaurant<br />
Old Smugglers’ Inn Trinity Arms<br />
Old Court House Inn<br />
Pub Walks<br />
In <strong>Jersey</strong> it’s easy to combine great<br />
walking <strong>with</strong> good food. A wealth of<br />
pubs, cafés and restaurants means that<br />
walkers can enjoy a pint and a tasty<br />
snack – or something more substantial –<br />
right across the island. Succulent seafood<br />
and home-grown vegetables are on<br />
menus everywhere. Here are a few tasty<br />
places to eat to tempt your appetite<br />
when out and about. For the full picture<br />
go to: www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/food<br />
Old Court House Inn, St Aubin<br />
Serves a variety of dishes, <strong>with</strong> the<br />
emphasis on fresh fish and seafood.<br />
Outstanding harbourfront location.<br />
Tel 01534 746433<br />
Old Smugglers’ Inn, Quaisne, St Brelade<br />
Converted fishermen’s cottages dating back<br />
to the 17th century. Popular local hostelry<br />
serving good pub food and fine ales.<br />
Tel 01534 741510<br />
The Rozel Bar and Restaurant, St Martin<br />
Traditional family pub offering a warm<br />
welcome. Tasty menu <strong>with</strong> daily specials<br />
served in the bar or restaurant. In<br />
summer the alfresco terrace and beer<br />
garden come into their own.<br />
Tel 01534 863438<br />
St Peter’s Country Inn, St Peter<br />
Traditional pub and restaurant serving<br />
home-made food. Good selection of<br />
drinks including real ales. Daily specials.<br />
Tel 01534 485319<br />
Trinity Arms, Trinity<br />
Rural pub serving traditional pub food.<br />
Food served all year round on weekday<br />
evenings. All age groups welcome.<br />
Tel 01534 864691<br />
18 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
The Island on Foot<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> was made for walkers – and it suits all kinds of walking, from<br />
a gentle stroll along the sands to the rugged challenge of breezy<br />
clifftops and rocky coves. For such a small island there’s astonishing<br />
variety – heath-covered cliffs <strong>with</strong> huge views across to the other<br />
Channel Islands, sloping sand bays, secluded harbours and that<br />
strange ‘moonscape’ of low-tide rocks and gullies.<br />
It’s easy to find your way around the island.<br />
There are beautiful footpaths all along the<br />
coast ideal for short walks, as well as an<br />
‘Around Island’ walk of 48 miles. This<br />
usually takes two or three days and can be<br />
completed on a self-guided basis <strong>with</strong> the<br />
aid of the Ordnance Survey Walking Map<br />
for <strong>Jersey</strong>. Guides are also available.<br />
Inland <strong>Jersey</strong> also extends a big invitation<br />
to walkers. The island’s famous ‘Green<br />
LA CORBIÈRE HEADLAND ON THE SOUTH WEST COAST<br />
Lanes’, a 50-mile network of idyllic country<br />
roads, are specially designated to preserve<br />
their tranquil nature and have a speed limit<br />
of 15mph <strong>with</strong> priority given to walkers,<br />
cyclists and horse riders. You’ll find them in<br />
all but two of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s 12 parishes –<br />
they’re easy to identify on the map and by<br />
the distinctive ‘Green Lane’ road sign.<br />
Guided Walks for 2008<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism’s series of escorted walking<br />
tours take in some of the island’s unique<br />
history and heritage in the company of<br />
experienced Blue Badge guides.<br />
The <strong>Jersey</strong> ‘Flag Walk’<br />
Inspired by the red diagonal cross on the<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> flag, the ‘Flag Walk’ appeals to<br />
walkers of all ages and abilities. It’s a series<br />
of four one-day escorted walks diagonally<br />
across the island from corner to corner<br />
discovering some of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s best-kept<br />
secrets. Available May– September.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Maritime Trail<br />
St Helier’s salty history is revealed on this<br />
trail through the capital’s working harbours,<br />
marinas, promenades and gardens. Free<br />
guide available from <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism.<br />
After Dark… Ghost Walks<br />
Keep your wits about you during this<br />
spine-chilling evening looking into <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
sinister past. Your Ghost Host tells many<br />
terrifying tales in his redoubtable<br />
repertoire. But whatever happens, don’t<br />
look behind you! Available May–December.<br />
Gentle Wanders<br />
‘Gentle Wanders’ cater for walkers <strong>with</strong><br />
pushchairs or wheelchair users. Sites<br />
around the island have been assessed on<br />
ease of access and 14 ‘Wanders’ have<br />
been created, including those at Rozel<br />
Woods in St Martin, Les Grands Vaux<br />
reservoir in St Saviour and Les Landes<br />
maritime heathland in St Ouen. The ‘Gentle<br />
Wanders’ guide is available from <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Tourism for a small donation to charity.<br />
Stepping Out <strong>with</strong> the National<br />
Trust for <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
A year-long programme of free guided<br />
walks celebrates the island’s glorious<br />
coastline and rich natural history. Walks<br />
usually last around two hours. Please<br />
dress <strong>with</strong> an eye to the season and the<br />
weather. Sensible footwear essential,<br />
binoculars recommended! Everyone<br />
welcome. For more details:<br />
Tel 01534 483193<br />
www.nationaltrust<strong>jersey</strong>.org.je<br />
Somerville Hotel<br />
Benefiting from a multi million pound<br />
investment, the sumptuous four star<br />
Somerville Hotel caters for those lucky<br />
enough to be in <strong>Jersey</strong> on business but<br />
also retains a welcoming country house<br />
atmosphere. Nestling on the hill above<br />
the picturesque St Aubin’s Village, the<br />
Somerville is popular <strong>with</strong> guests who<br />
appreciate its discreet location and<br />
emphasis on indulgence and style.<br />
All bedrooms and facilities are<br />
furnished to the highest standards<br />
and the well-reputed hotel enjoys an<br />
outdoor heated swimming pool in<br />
abundant gardens. The village below is<br />
host to a fabulous range of bistros and<br />
restaurants and the Somerville’s own<br />
restaurant, Tides, enjoys two AA rosettes.<br />
Where to Go for<br />
Walking Information<br />
For further details on all of the walks<br />
and special events listed on these pages<br />
please contact <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism.<br />
Tel 01534 448877<br />
email: info@<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/walking<br />
(website also contains detailed<br />
descriptions of other coastal and<br />
countryside walks)<br />
Somerville Hotel<br />
Mont du Boulevard<br />
St Aubin<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 8AD<br />
Tel 01534 491980<br />
Fax 01534 746621<br />
email: somerville@dolanhotels.com<br />
www.somerville<strong>jersey</strong>.com
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Walking<br />
PLEMONT BAY<br />
2008 Walking Events<br />
17–24 May, <strong>Spring</strong> Walking Festival<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> is a wonderful season to explore<br />
the island on foot. And there’s the added<br />
attraction of this festival, which lays<br />
everything on for you. All the routes are<br />
planned, the transport in place, and each<br />
walk is led by a local guide who knows<br />
the area intimately. Distances vary from<br />
one to 14 miles, and <strong>with</strong> over 40<br />
separate walks there’s plenty of choice<br />
for all the family.<br />
Themes for each walk change every year,<br />
but to give you an idea previous festivals<br />
have included walks for foodies,<br />
birdwatchers and single people… and even<br />
ones based on lighthouses, ghosts, bats<br />
and pedigree cattle. <strong>Jersey</strong>’s fortified<br />
coastal towers feature on some routes,<br />
including the famous ‘Moonwalk’ to<br />
Seymour Tower (see the previous pages).<br />
Most popular of all are the daily coastal<br />
walks. When added together over the week<br />
they make up a complete circuit of the<br />
island’s ever-changing coastline, traversing<br />
20 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
quiet sandy bays and dramatic clifftops.<br />
For the free 32-page booklet describing<br />
each walk please contact <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism<br />
or visit www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/walking<br />
21 June, Itex Walk<br />
<strong>Cover</strong>ing 48 miles, this annual event<br />
attracts both local and visiting walkers,<br />
raising funds for <strong>Jersey</strong> charities. Expect<br />
to complete the course in anything<br />
between 12 to 21 hours.<br />
www.itex.je/walk<br />
13–20 September, Autumn Walking<br />
Festival<br />
Enjoy wonderful autumnal colours on a<br />
free programme of countryside, coastal<br />
and historical walks <strong>with</strong> some of the<br />
island’s most experienced guides.<br />
Highlight of the week is the ‘Around<br />
Island Walk’.<br />
Your Very Own Guide<br />
Please see page 59 for details of the<br />
walking publications available from<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism.<br />
ABOVE BONNE NUIT BAY<br />
Public Transport<br />
Walkers find it easy to get around the<br />
island <strong>with</strong> the help of an excellent<br />
bus service. Please see the ‘Island<br />
Exploration’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file for full details of<br />
unlimited-travel Island Explorer tickets.<br />
Tel 01534 877772<br />
www.mybus.je<br />
Three of the best<br />
hotels in <strong>Jersey</strong>…<br />
but don’t just take<br />
our word for it.<br />
For more than 80 years, the Seymour<br />
family have been operating hotels<br />
exclusively in <strong>Jersey</strong> and are the largest<br />
and longest-established hotel group in<br />
the Channel Islands. Each of our three<br />
hotels has a unique character and<br />
appeal, but is underpinned by the<br />
highest standards of service that has<br />
become a hallmark of the Group.<br />
We can tell you how wonderful each hotel is<br />
and about the fabulous facilities available but<br />
we think that you should also read what our<br />
guests think. That’s why on the front page of<br />
each of our hotel’s websites you will find a<br />
link to the world’s largest travel review<br />
website, Tripadvisor® where you can read<br />
some of our guests’ opinions about their stay.<br />
Of course, not all our guests have nice things<br />
to say about us but you can be sure that<br />
they represent genuine views and are not<br />
just brochure-speak. We also use the<br />
feedback to improve our hotels for future<br />
guests. So take a look at our website to find<br />
more about each hotel. Then click on the<br />
Tripadvisor® logo and let our guests show<br />
you why we take such pride in our hotels.<br />
POMME D'OR HOTEL PORTELET HOTEL<br />
MERTON HOTEL<br />
Pomme d’Or Hotel ★★★★<br />
Channel Island Hotel of the Year 2007<br />
Located at the heart of St Helier.<br />
Tel 01534 880110<br />
email: enquiries@pommedorhotel.com<br />
www.pommedorhotel.com<br />
Special offer – 3 for 2 weekend<br />
breaks available all year<br />
Merton Hotel ★★★<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s favourite family hotel<br />
Tel 01534 724231<br />
email: enquiries@mertonhotel.com<br />
www.mertonhotel.com<br />
Special offer – Free evening<br />
meals during certain periods<br />
Portelet Hotel ★★★<br />
Elegance and style <strong>with</strong> stunning views<br />
Tel 01534 741204<br />
email: enquiries@portelethotel.com<br />
www.portelethotel.com<br />
Special offer – free car hire<br />
throughout your stay<br />
www.seymourhotels.com
Life and<br />
Liberty<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s experiences during World War Two have left<br />
enduring memories. When your liberty is taken away,<br />
you don’t forget in a hurry. Broadcaster Sue Cook, who<br />
has presented everything from the Holiday programme to<br />
Radio 4’s popular Making History, looks at how the <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
of today remembers all its yesterdays.<br />
22 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
LIBERATION FESTIVITIES LIBERATION SQUARE, ST HELIER<br />
to <strong>Jersey</strong> – the ideal<br />
wartime holiday resort!’ exhorted<br />
‘Come<br />
the brochures. ‘The bays <strong>with</strong><br />
their eternal sands, sea and sunshine<br />
together produce an atmosphere of<br />
peaceful tranquillity…’<br />
It was May 1940. In Europe, World War<br />
Two was well underway. By contrast,<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s sandy beaches remained bathed in<br />
quiet sunshine. There was no reason to<br />
expect otherwise. After all, the First World<br />
War had passed the Channel Islands by.<br />
Why would the second be any different?<br />
‘Happily, our island is far removed from the<br />
theatre of war,’ the brochure went on to<br />
say. If only. Six weeks later, on July 1st,<br />
1940, that ‘peaceful tranquillity’ was<br />
shattered when the German Luftwaffe<br />
bombed St Helier. Two more days and<br />
Hitler’s forces had landed. The island was<br />
under German rule for the best part of the<br />
next five years. Deliverance arrived on May<br />
9th 1945, the day after VE Day, when the<br />
British Navy sailed into St Helier. It was an<br />
occasion of such relief that, more than 60<br />
years on, the annual Liberation Day<br />
festivities on May 9th are still hugely<br />
important on the island.<br />
Not one to miss a good celebration, I arrive<br />
the morning before the big day. I am booked<br />
into the famous Pomme d’Or Hotel,<br />
headquarters for Hitler’s Navy during the<br />
Occupation. It stands in Liberation Square<br />
and I stop to admire the striking memorial<br />
statue depicting the moment occupation<br />
became liberation: seven bronze figures – six<br />
islanders and a British soldier – triumphantly<br />
holding aloft a giant Union Jack.<br />
An estate car pulls up <strong>with</strong> a trailer loaded<br />
<strong>with</strong> chairs. Volunteers busy themselves<br />
setting them out in rows. In front of them a<br />
stage is being assembled – the focal point<br />
of tomorrow’s ceremony when the guest of<br />
honour will be His Royal Highness the Duke<br />
of Kent. The party atmosphere is already<br />
beginning to build.<br />
From my room at the Pomme d’Or<br />
overlooking the square and harbour, I’ll<br />
have a grandstand view of tomorrow’s<br />
proceedings. No time to unpack now, I’m<br />
due to meet Tom Bunting, one of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
Blue Badge guides and an expert on the<br />
island’s wartime heritage.<br />
We meet at the appropriately named<br />
Gunsite Café, a converted German-built<br />
concrete command post overlooking sandy<br />
St Aubin’s Bay. Its tranquil pale-blue décor,<br />
chalk-written menu boards and sea view<br />
make it hard to visualise its warlike<br />
function. Over fresh orange juice and<br />
home-baked carrot cake Tom tells me that<br />
most of the old German bunkers and gun<br />
emplacements are still in evidence. Instead<br />
of destroying them, the ever-practical and<br />
resourceful islanders have put them to<br />
good use. One, filled <strong>with</strong> sea-water, is a<br />
storehouse for freshly caught lobsters.<br />
Others serve as a turbot farm and a<br />
museum filled <strong>with</strong> relics and artefacts<br />
from the Occupation. Yet another has<br />
become a cycle hire shop.<br />
Similarly, the concrete sea-walls the Germans<br />
built all round the island are still doing their job<br />
so efficiently that there’s no need to replace<br />
them. As I discover later in the day, these and<br />
other wartime relics have a strange beauty<br />
all of their own, their presence amongst<br />
sea-cliffs and headlands fusing brutality <strong>with</strong><br />
beauty much in the same way as a medieval<br />
castle in a mountain setting.<br />
Later, Tom promises, he’ll show me the<br />
Corbière Radio Tower on the west coast,<br />
once a German observation post, now<br />
converted into a six-storey holiday home<br />
<strong>with</strong> stunning 360-degree views across<br />
ocean and field. When I see it I can’t help<br />
thinking that it mirrors its near neighbour,<br />
the Corbière Lighthouse, a famous <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
landmark on the rocks below. If so, it’s by<br />
happy accident – I doubt that the Germans<br />
planned it that way.<br />
But first, Tom’s going to take me on his<br />
‘Living <strong>with</strong> the Enemy’ walk, which proved<br />
an instant hit <strong>with</strong> <strong>Jersey</strong>’s visitors when he<br />
introduced it in 2006. It’s a two-mile<br />
wooded stroll from the Gunsite Café to the<br />
astonishing <strong>Jersey</strong> War Tunnels (more on<br />
these later). We set off along an idyllic<br />
country lane, crossing a mill stream before<br />
finding a wooded trail almost hidden<br />
between the trees. As we walk, Tom talks<br />
about the harsh reality of life for the people<br />
of <strong>Jersey</strong> under German rule.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 23
Life and<br />
Liberty<br />
LIBERATION FESTIVAL LIBERATION DAY REVISITED THE JERSEY WAR TUNNELS<br />
Overnight, motorists had to drive on the<br />
right instead of the left, schoolchildren<br />
were taught German and the deutschmark<br />
replaced the pound. But that was just the<br />
start of it. Newspapers were censored,<br />
radio sets confiscated. Some people<br />
managed to keep a crystal set under the<br />
floorboards but breaking the rules resulted<br />
in a prison sentence. During the course of<br />
the Occupation, thousands of islanders<br />
were deported to internment or<br />
concentration camps in Germany.<br />
As we walk, Tom points out the ghostly<br />
remnants of gun emplacements, and tells<br />
me of the human cost in turning <strong>Jersey</strong> into<br />
Hitler’s ‘fortress island’. ‘An enormous<br />
workforce was shipped in, mostly Russian<br />
prisoners of war but also refugees from the<br />
Spanish Civil War.’ Islanders old enough to<br />
remember describe men from this<br />
wretched slave army being marched<br />
through the streets of St Helier each<br />
morning for their day’s labour and returning<br />
exhausted at night.<br />
The most dangerous work was<br />
underground, building a huge network of<br />
tunnels designed to be an impregnable<br />
fortress for the 12,000 occupying troops in<br />
case of invasion. Now it’s home to one of<br />
the most impressive museums you’ll ever<br />
visit: the <strong>Jersey</strong> War Tunnels.<br />
It’s wholly appropriate that the 11ft-high<br />
steel sculpture standing sentinel at the<br />
entrance, entitled Silence, is dedicated to<br />
the plight of the wartime slaves<br />
remembered. Waiting beside it to show me<br />
round is Robert De La Cour, the museum’s<br />
Operations Manager.<br />
He hands me an identity card. ‘Every visitor<br />
to the tunnels is given one,’ Robert tells me.<br />
‘It’s a replica of the card every islander had<br />
to carry during the Occupation.’<br />
But it’s not just any old replica. There are<br />
many different versions. Inside mine is a<br />
photograph of a middle-aged woman named<br />
Louisa May Gould who ran the general store<br />
at St Ouen’s. Her husband died before the<br />
war began and both her sons were serving<br />
overseas in the British Army. She took pity<br />
on a young Russian prisoner who’d escaped<br />
from the labour camp, came to her house<br />
and asked for help. But she was betrayed by<br />
a neighbour’s anonymous letter, arrested and<br />
deported to a European prison camp. She<br />
lost her life in the gas chambers of<br />
Ravensbruck in February 1945, only a few<br />
weeks before Liberation.<br />
This poignant, heroic tale is just one of many<br />
island experiences retold in an extraordinary<br />
and compelling way <strong>with</strong>in the War Tunnels.<br />
The spooky underground passageways and<br />
chambers themselves form the galleries and<br />
exhibition spaces, taking you from<br />
‘Threatened Island’, through to ‘Daily Life’,<br />
‘Resistance’ and ultimately ‘Liberation’.<br />
The grinding daily reality of the Occupation<br />
emerges through the eyes not just of <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
men, women and children but slave workers<br />
and German soldiers too. Sometimes the<br />
voices are those of actors, but in many<br />
instances it is the real life individuals we see<br />
and hear telling their stories of deportation,<br />
attempted escapes, narrow squeaks, the<br />
constant feeling of being watched and the<br />
severe shortages of food and basic supplies.<br />
One story tells of an old lady pushed over<br />
in the street by one of a group of German<br />
officers. She got up and slapped him and<br />
was imprisoned for 28 days. Other voices<br />
talk of ordinary foot soldiers trying to<br />
befriend the islanders, but you didn’t dare<br />
be seen talking to them for fear of being<br />
branded a collaborator. Some romances<br />
blossomed between <strong>Jersey</strong> girls and the<br />
soldiers. They were shunned and abused.<br />
There was no greater shame. The thorny<br />
issue of islander informing on islander, as<br />
happened in the case of Louisa May Gould,<br />
is also tackled. It’s all there, warts and all.<br />
Eventually islanders and soldiers alike were<br />
in danger of starving to death. Churchill<br />
wouldn’t authorise sending supplies for fear<br />
that they’d go to the German troops rather<br />
than the islanders. ‘Coffee’ was made from<br />
ground acorns, ‘tea’ from the leaves of<br />
blackberries and roses, ‘toothpaste’ from<br />
powdered cuttlefish and ivy leaves. Curtains<br />
were pulled down to make into clothing.<br />
Robert leads me into the final tunnel,<br />
entitled ‘Towards Tomorrow’ where the<br />
ethos is very much a constructive one,<br />
looking to the future, not hanging on to<br />
blame. These were Hitler’s armies, rather<br />
than Germany’s. Hitler is long gone…<br />
universal friendship is what matters now.<br />
If anyone wonders why Liberation Day is still<br />
so significant in <strong>Jersey</strong> – why it’s called ‘A<br />
Celebration of Freedom’ and why there’s<br />
laughter and music and thanksgiving – then<br />
the answer is in the War Tunnels. The people<br />
of <strong>Jersey</strong> know only too well what it is like to<br />
have freedom taken away. For those of us<br />
lucky to have been born and bred in a<br />
country that has never experienced<br />
occupation, it’s almost impossible to imagine.<br />
SUE AT CORBIÈRE RADIO TOWER<br />
Next morning after a champagne breakfast<br />
among some of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s older residents –<br />
an emotional occasion at which poignant<br />
memories are exchanged – I’m leaning out<br />
of my hotel window overlooking Liberation<br />
Square. Every other available window in the<br />
square is also filled <strong>with</strong> onlookers. There<br />
are excited crowds down below too, all<br />
dressed in their best and oblivious to the<br />
grey sky that threatens possible showers.<br />
The band strikes up and the pageantry<br />
begins… vintage cars, uniformed veterans,<br />
troops throwing sweets, scouts, guides,<br />
cubs, brownies, all part of a cavalcade<br />
proceeding through the streets of St Helier,<br />
recreating the euphoric liberation scenes of<br />
62 years ago. The Duke of Kent and<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s dignitaries take their seats and the<br />
Union Jack is hoisted on the Pomme d’Or’s<br />
balcony below me.<br />
To be in <strong>Jersey</strong> for Liberation Day uplifts<br />
the spirits, reminds us of some eternal<br />
truths. Right on cue, the sun breaks<br />
through the clouds.<br />
24 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 25
250,000 BC<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: History and Heritage<br />
A Liberating<br />
Experience<br />
During the Liberation festivities Sue<br />
Cook stayed at the Pomme d’Or Hotel,<br />
Liberation Square, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE1<br />
3UF. It’s ideally situated, and following a<br />
£5-million refurbishment programme<br />
provides all the facilities expected of a<br />
contemporary four-star hotel.<br />
Tel 01534 880110<br />
www.pommedorhotel.com<br />
She Visited:<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> War Tunnels, St Lawrence<br />
A must see! These tunnels are committed<br />
to preserving, recording and presenting<br />
an accurate account of the Occupation of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> during World War Two. Ho8<br />
(shortened from the German<br />
‘Hohlgangsanlage 8’) is the best known of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s many tunnel complexes built by<br />
forced labour. Ending the war as an<br />
underground hospital, Ho8 is now home<br />
to an award-winning exhibition that gives<br />
visitors a gripping and thought-provoking<br />
glimpse into what life was like during the<br />
Occupation. Open from late February.<br />
Tel 01534 860808<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>wartunnels.com<br />
She Walked <strong>with</strong>:<br />
Tom Bunting, from the <strong>Jersey</strong> Blue<br />
Badge Guide Association, on his ‘Living<br />
<strong>with</strong> the Enemy’ walk.<br />
Tel 01534 482822<br />
email: tom.bunting@localdial.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s earliest residents<br />
were palaeolithic (Old Stone<br />
Age) hunter-gatherers who<br />
lived in caves. The island’s<br />
many standing stones and<br />
burial chambers date from<br />
neolithic (New Stone Age)<br />
times c.4000 BC.<br />
26 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
6th century<br />
Past Times<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> fits an encyclopaedic amount of history into its pocket-book<br />
size. And it’s written <strong>with</strong> a bold hand right the way across the<br />
landscape, from the amazing ancient tomb at La Hougue Bie to<br />
Mont Orgueil’s massive headland castle, the shanties and seafaring<br />
lore at the Maritime Museum to the chilling <strong>Jersey</strong> War Tunnels.<br />
An Island Occupied<br />
The Channel Islands Military Museum,<br />
St Ouen<br />
The museum has the only display on the<br />
island of all-authentic German World War<br />
Two militaria as well as a superb collection<br />
of civilian Occupation items. It is housed in<br />
a coastal defence bunker that formed part<br />
of Hitler’s extensive Atlantic Wall. Open<br />
from early April.<br />
Tel 01534 723136<br />
The Channel Islands Occupation Society,<br />
St Ouen<br />
This dedicated volunteer organisation<br />
ensures that key sites from <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
Occupation are open to the public<br />
throughout the warmer months. For details<br />
of the sites and opening times please see<br />
their website.<br />
www.cios<strong>jersey</strong>.org.uk<br />
Occupation Tapestry at the Maritime<br />
Museum, St Helier<br />
Twelve superbly designed and worked<br />
panels tell the story of life in <strong>Jersey</strong> during<br />
World War Two. This massive work of art<br />
was stitched by the people of the island in<br />
what turned out to be the largest ever<br />
community project. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 811043<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
Germanic raiders unwittingly<br />
put <strong>Jersey</strong> on the Christian map<br />
when they murdered the<br />
hermit St Helier, who lived and<br />
preached on a small rocky<br />
islet near what is now<br />
Elizabeth Castle.<br />
9th century<br />
Vikings settled on the<br />
mainland and the islands,<br />
giving <strong>Jersey</strong> its name.<br />
Then came the Normans.<br />
Castle Strongholds<br />
Elizabeth Castle, St Helier<br />
Built on a rocky islet in the 1590s and<br />
accessible by ‘Puddleduck’ ferry, the castle<br />
was named after Queen Elizabeth I by Sir<br />
Walter Raleigh while he was Governor of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. Three exhibitions explain the role of<br />
the castle in <strong>Jersey</strong>’s history. Time your visit<br />
to include the 12-noon ‘call to arms’ by<br />
Gunner Gilman, followed by the firing of<br />
the castle cannon. Open daily May–<br />
November.<br />
Tel 01534 723971<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
Grosnez Castle, St Ouen<br />
This spectacularly located headland ruin is<br />
thought to date from the 14th century.<br />
Accessible at all reasonable times.<br />
Mont Orgueil Castle, Gorey<br />
Mont Orgueil, undoubtedly <strong>Jersey</strong>’s most<br />
iconic historic building, commands a<br />
spectacular headland above Gorey harbour.<br />
Construction began in the 13th century –<br />
when King John lost control of Normandy –<br />
to defend the island against invasion. This<br />
jewel in <strong>Jersey</strong>’s crown, one of the bestpreserved<br />
castles in Britain, contains<br />
exhibitions and displays which bring the<br />
past to life <strong>with</strong> flair and imagination. Open<br />
all year (but Friday–Monday only from<br />
November to March).<br />
Tel 01534 853292<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
1204<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> was part of the Norman<br />
world for nearly three centuries,<br />
until 1204. Following the fall of<br />
Rouen, islanders faced a dilemma:<br />
stay loyal to John, King of England<br />
and Duke of Normandy, or switch<br />
allegiance to Philippe Auguste of<br />
France. The decision to remain loyal<br />
to King John triggered a special<br />
relationship <strong>with</strong> the English crown,<br />
resulting in the unique culture and<br />
constitution <strong>Jersey</strong> enjoys today.<br />
HAMPTONNE COUNTRY LIFE MUSEUM GROSNEZ CASTLE<br />
Ancient Stones and Bones<br />
La Hougue Bie<br />
(just north-east of St Helier)<br />
This is <strong>Jersey</strong>’s star prehistoric monument<br />
and one of Europe’s most impressive burial<br />
mounds. Predating the pyramids of Egypt,<br />
this neolithic (New Stone Age) burial<br />
chamber has been the focal point for<br />
religion on the island for nearly 6,000<br />
years. Buried in the heart of a steep mound<br />
topped by a medieval church is a chamber,<br />
constructed of enormous stones, accessible<br />
by a long, narrow passageway. The site also<br />
contains a German bunker that houses a<br />
poignant World War Two exhibition. Open<br />
daily March–November.<br />
Tel 01534 833823<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
There are many other prehistoric graves<br />
and tombs on the island which you can visit<br />
at all reasonable times. For details go to:<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
www.prehistoric<strong>jersey</strong>.net<br />
15th century<br />
During the Wars of the Roses, the<br />
French seized Mont Orgueil<br />
Castle and ruled <strong>Jersey</strong> for seven<br />
years.<br />
Revealing Museums<br />
Hamptonne Country Life Museum,<br />
St Lawrence<br />
This cluster of faithfully restored farm<br />
buildings – including thatched and<br />
furnished houses, a cider house, bakery,<br />
wash-house and stables – recreates rural<br />
life on the island. Stories and gossip from<br />
the time of Charles II are part of the living<br />
history on site. Open daily March–November.<br />
Tel 01534 863955<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Museum and Art Gallery, St Helier<br />
This wide-ranging museum explains the<br />
history, traditions and culture of the island<br />
in an exciting and involving way. <strong>Part</strong> of the<br />
museum is an atmospheric Victorian<br />
merchant’s house. The Artzone is an<br />
interactive space where younger visitors<br />
can play <strong>with</strong> and investigate different<br />
types of art. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 633300<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
18th century<br />
A series of towers was erected<br />
around <strong>Jersey</strong>’s coast to ward off<br />
further French attacks after the<br />
French briefly took the island in<br />
1781.<br />
Société Jersiaise, St Helier<br />
A society founded to promote and<br />
encourage the study of the history,<br />
archaeology, natural history, language<br />
and many other subjects of interest in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. Home of the Channel Islands<br />
Family History Society.<br />
www.societe-jersiaise.org<br />
Maritime Museum, St Helier<br />
As soon as you walk through the door you’ll<br />
see why this imaginative museum has won<br />
so many awards and plaudits. Using stateof-the-art<br />
interactive displays and other<br />
ingenious exhibits, it celebrates <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
long association <strong>with</strong> the sea. There’s<br />
enough here to entertain kids and adults all<br />
day long. In the gallery next door, the<br />
Occupation Tapestry is a memorial to life<br />
during the Occupation. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 811043<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org<br />
Le Moulin de Quétivel, St Peter<br />
This watermill is located on a site where<br />
there have been mills since the early 14th<br />
century. The only working mill left in St<br />
Peter’s Valley, it still grinds its own flour<br />
which visitors can buy (along <strong>with</strong> gifts)<br />
in the mill shop. An exhibition traces the<br />
history of milling and there’s a 20-minute<br />
film. Open Saturdays May–September.<br />
Tel 01534 483193<br />
www.nationaltrust<strong>jersey</strong>.org.je<br />
World War Two<br />
The Channel Islands were the<br />
only part of Britain to be<br />
occupied by German forces<br />
when the British government<br />
chose not to defend them.<br />
Liberation from five years of<br />
occupation came to a starving and<br />
oppressed population on 9 May<br />
1945, an event celebrated annually<br />
<strong>with</strong> Liberation Day.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 27
Notes from a<br />
Small Island<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> is quirky. It’s an island<br />
<strong>with</strong> individuality. Roger<br />
Thomas takes a look at a<br />
few reasons why <strong>Jersey</strong> is<br />
refreshingly different.<br />
Farm Honesty Boxes<br />
You’ll see them everywhere when<br />
travelling around the island. Farm<br />
produce, bought straight from the<br />
doorstep. It doesn’t get any better or<br />
fresher. Choose what you want and<br />
leave the correct money. No one<br />
checks because trust and honesty<br />
still count for a lot in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
28 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Green Lanes<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> was ahead of its time<br />
in creating roads where<br />
cyclists, walkers and horse<br />
riders have priority. Soak up<br />
the calm of the countryside<br />
on the island’s 50-mile network of Green<br />
Lanes, where cars are restricted to 15mph.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> isn’t a fast and furious place – the<br />
maximum speed limit on the island is 40mph.<br />
Yellow Telephone Boxes<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> has its own phone and<br />
postal systems. So when it came<br />
to painting their telephone boxes<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Telecom chose yellow and<br />
cream. Why not? It’s better<br />
than seeing red.<br />
French Road Signs<br />
Bring your French dictionary to <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
French was the official language here<br />
until the 1960s. You’ll still see it on<br />
many road signs, placenames and<br />
buildings. PS. We drive on the left.<br />
Fortress <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> was occupied by the Germans<br />
during World War Two. They spent a<br />
small – make that large – fortune<br />
defending the island. Ghostly remains<br />
in the shape of gun emplacements,<br />
towers and tunnels serve as gripping<br />
reminders of those dark days. We<br />
shouldn’t ignore them – they’re part<br />
of an episode <strong>with</strong> a happy ending that<br />
reinforced <strong>Jersey</strong>’s island identity.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Black Butter<br />
No, it’s not butter. This version, La Niere Buerre, is<br />
made from apples, cider, lemons, treacle, liquorice, sugar,<br />
mixed spice and cinnamon. It’s a harvest tradition that<br />
goes back hundreds of years. Buy it as a preserve and<br />
spread it on hot buttered toast, a warm croissant or a<br />
fresh scone <strong>with</strong> cream. Delicious!<br />
Squirrel Sanctuary<br />
We like our<br />
squirrels in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
Perhaps that’s<br />
because they’re red<br />
as opposed to the<br />
pesky grey variety.<br />
Red squirrels haven’t<br />
looked back since they were introduced to<br />
the island in 1885. Slow down and you’ll see<br />
them scurrying amongst the trees and<br />
woodland glades.<br />
Beach Cafés<br />
Remember the bucket-and-spade<br />
beach cafés and kiosks of old?<br />
They’re alive and well and thriving in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. Wholesome, freshly<br />
prepared meals and snacks are a<br />
local speciality – and the<br />
seafood, as you’d expect, is as<br />
fresh as it gets.<br />
Witches’ Seat<br />
Look out for stones jutting<br />
out from the gables of<br />
some of the older houses in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. They’re seats for<br />
passing witches. Islanders<br />
believed that by providing rest<br />
halts for flying sorcerers they’d<br />
avoid evil spells.<br />
Marriage Stone<br />
Traditional domestic<br />
buildings in <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
sometimes wear their<br />
hearts on their sleeves.<br />
The ‘marriage stone’ is<br />
usually a lintel or large<br />
stone bearing the<br />
initials of husband and wife, <strong>with</strong><br />
entwined hearts and a date. Just goes to<br />
show: there’s never been a good excuse<br />
for forgetting your anniversary.<br />
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Festival Island 2008<br />
Throughout the year <strong>Jersey</strong> plays host to a wide variety of events embracing everything<br />
from music to motoring, countryside to culture. Here’s a taster of what’s happening in 2008.<br />
For the full picture go to: www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/events<br />
29–30 March<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> Flower Show<br />
The Royal <strong>Jersey</strong> Agricultural and Horticultural<br />
Society invite you to their springtime show,<br />
featuring displays, demonstrations and<br />
competitions.<br />
2–4 May<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Open Petanque Competition<br />
Join in the fun and test your skill.<br />
2–5 May<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> MG Owners<br />
Club <strong>Spring</strong> Rally<br />
Every year more and more visiting cars attend<br />
this prestigious rally. An exciting annual event<br />
set against a beautiful island backdrop.<br />
9–11 May<br />
Liberation Festival<br />
Join islanders to celebrate the liberation from<br />
Occupying Forces during World War Two.<br />
Festival includes heritage trails and access to<br />
war bunkers not normally open to the public.<br />
‘Liberation Day’ falls on Friday 9th May when<br />
there will be a commemorative service and<br />
islanders will celebrate freedom, reconciliation<br />
and prosperity <strong>with</strong> an afternoon tea dance<br />
and food fair.<br />
17 May<br />
Gorey Fête de la Mer<br />
Set in the shadow of magnificent Mont<br />
Orgueil Castle, Gorey serves up an array of<br />
traditional sea food, <strong>with</strong> alfresco dining and<br />
entertainment along the waterfront.<br />
17–24 May<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> Walking Week<br />
Discover an island heritage and explore<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s natural beauty in a series of free<br />
guided walks designed for all ages and levels<br />
of experience.<br />
30 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
18–25 May<br />
World <strong>Jersey</strong> Cattle Bureau<br />
Conference<br />
Fascinated by the <strong>Jersey</strong> Cow and the island’s<br />
rich farming history? Meet the global<br />
members of the World <strong>Jersey</strong> Cattle Bureau<br />
and accompany them on all or part of their<br />
conference. Learn about the heritage and<br />
development of this famous breed through<br />
a series of farm visits, tours and formal<br />
conference sessions.<br />
24–26 May<br />
Foire de <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s traditional country fayre combines<br />
<strong>with</strong> the <strong>Jersey</strong> Rose and Flower Show and<br />
Island <strong>Spring</strong> Cattle Show to provide<br />
entertainment for all the family. Activities<br />
include a craft show, ring events, food tasting,<br />
traditional country games and floral displays.<br />
6–8 June<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Festival of Motoring<br />
Sprints, hill climbs, treasure hunts, cavalcades<br />
and static displays give participants and<br />
spectators the opportunity to come together<br />
in an extravaganza of motoring from<br />
yesteryear.<br />
15 June<br />
Dawn Chorus<br />
Enjoy a concert in the east of the island<br />
overlooking the sea as the sun rises, then join<br />
your guide on an early morning walk listening<br />
to the birdsong.<br />
20 June<br />
Solstice Celebration<br />
Join islanders on a procession to the sea and<br />
see the Wicker Man burn on the beach as<br />
part of the solstice celebration.<br />
21 June<br />
Itex ‘Around Island’ Walk<br />
<strong>Cover</strong>ing 48 miles, this annual event attracts<br />
both local and visiting walkers, raising funds<br />
for <strong>Jersey</strong> charities. Walkers can expect to<br />
complete the course in anything between<br />
12 to 21 hours.<br />
21–22 June<br />
Samarès <strong>Summer</strong><br />
Festival and <strong>Jersey</strong> Rose Show<br />
Join Samarès Manor and The <strong>Jersey</strong> Rosarians<br />
for this summer festival and spectacle of<br />
colour and fragrance in the manor’s beautiful<br />
grounds. Includes displays, demonstrations,<br />
horticultural trade stands and traditional crafts.<br />
27 June<br />
Sunset Concert<br />
Bring a picnic and a bottle of champagne<br />
and enjoy an evening concert alfresco at the<br />
magical Dolmen de Grantez as you watch the<br />
sun set over St Ouen’s Bay.<br />
5–6 July<br />
‘Out of the Blue’ Maritime Festival<br />
A spectacular maritime extravaganza around<br />
St Helier harbour – street theatre, alfresco<br />
food fair, boat trips and sea shanties. Visiting<br />
Norman traders from nearby France will be<br />
selling soupe de poisson, crêpes, calvados and<br />
other ‘fruits of the sea’.<br />
12–13 July<br />
West Show<br />
This biannual country show takes place in the<br />
country Parish of St Peter and features rural<br />
exhibits, craft stalls, demonstrations and food<br />
tastings associated <strong>with</strong> a traditional country<br />
‘fayre’. Visitors will also be introduced to the<br />
island’s most famous residents – the beautiful<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Cow.<br />
14–15 August<br />
Battle of Flowers Carnival<br />
One of the most spectacular carnivals in<br />
Europe. Enjoy flower-festooned floats,<br />
musicians, dancers and entertainers, all<br />
creating a tremendous atmosphere for one of<br />
the highlights in <strong>Jersey</strong>’s summer calendar.<br />
21 August<br />
Gorey Fête<br />
Family fun, beach events, yard of ale and<br />
spaghetti eating competitions, and alfresco<br />
eating all day in a picturesque harbour setting.<br />
30–31 August<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Live Music Festival<br />
A full line up of cutting-edge international<br />
and UK acts at the biggest little ‘Indie Rock’<br />
festival in the British Isles.<br />
5–7 September<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Regatta<br />
The island’s ‘flagship’ sailing event celebrates<br />
its 10th year and welcomes visiting yachts<br />
from the UK, Channel Islands and France.<br />
St Aubin’s Bay, the dedicated sailing area, will<br />
offer a full programme of races for dinghies,<br />
beach catamarans, sports boats and racer/<br />
cruising yachts.<br />
11 September<br />
International Air Display<br />
The skies above <strong>Jersey</strong> come alive to the<br />
sights and sounds of one of the largest free<br />
air displays in Europe.<br />
13–20 September<br />
Autumn Walking Week<br />
Experience <strong>Jersey</strong>’s wonderful autumnal<br />
colours and join in a full and free programme<br />
of unique countryside, coastal and historical<br />
walks <strong>with</strong> some of the island’s most<br />
experienced guides. Highlight of the week is<br />
the ‘Around Island Walk’.<br />
14 September<br />
Canine ‘Come Dancing’ Tournament<br />
<strong>Part</strong>icipants and supporters from across<br />
Europe return to <strong>Jersey</strong> for canine<br />
competitions and displays throughout the day.<br />
22 September<br />
Fête des Dolmens<br />
Island-wide tour of archaeological sites.<br />
Hop on the special dolmen bus and take a<br />
trip back 6,000 years to visit <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
ancient ritual sites.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 31
All at<br />
Sea<br />
You can always rely on the good old<br />
BBC. About a week before The Other<br />
Half and I were due to travel to<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>, Neil Oliver and the Coast team<br />
popped up on the TV <strong>with</strong> a Channel Islands<br />
special and a taste of what we might<br />
expect. We were intrigued. Unlike Neil,<br />
however, a quick, greased-up cross-Channel<br />
training swim was not on our agenda!<br />
We had lined up plenty of other activities.<br />
The two of us love the outdoor life. So,<br />
whilst soaking up the commanding and<br />
expansive views overlooking St Aubin’s Bay<br />
from the balcony of the lovely Cristina<br />
Hotel, we planned how to best use every<br />
precious, fresh-air filled hour on this jewel<br />
of an island.<br />
Helmets on, legs pumping, we were soon<br />
travelling by bike. Sure, <strong>Jersey</strong>’s narrow<br />
hedge-framed roads are easy to drive<br />
around. But nothing beats the wind-blown<br />
freedom of gambolling along under your<br />
own steam. In fact, we travelled ‘in the<br />
tracks of steam’, crunching through the<br />
gears along the old railway line that once<br />
ran from St Helier to La Corbière, linking<br />
the wide, breezy promenade along St<br />
Aubin’s Bay to the rocky south-western<br />
corner of the island.<br />
If you’ve ever battled your way around<br />
London on a bicycle, or indeed any major<br />
city, you’ll certainly appreciate the nonaggressive,<br />
stress-free riding available in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. You’ll find a large network of<br />
designated ‘Green Lanes’ where vehicular<br />
traffic is restricted to a maximum of<br />
15mph. What a joy. Ken Livingstone,<br />
please take note.<br />
As you pedal along, meandering through<br />
lanes and pretty villages, there’s plenty of<br />
time to muse on <strong>Jersey</strong>’s old Norman-<br />
French placenames and road signs. It all<br />
adds up to an appealing mixture of British<br />
home-from-home certainties and<br />
stimulating continental sophistication.<br />
The variety and quality of the food here<br />
underlines this happy cultural co-existence.<br />
Once you reach the end of the old railway<br />
line, you’re rewarded by views of Corbière<br />
Lighthouse, one of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s most<br />
recognisable and photographed spots. When<br />
we arrived the narrow causeway out to the<br />
lighthouse was semi-submerged, waiting for<br />
low tide to link it once more to the island. It<br />
was a sight that gave us our first indication<br />
of the extraordinary tidal range around<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>, something that we would experience<br />
for ourselves over the following days.<br />
Huge 40ft tides – that’s about 13m –<br />
make <strong>Jersey</strong>’s coastline a constantly<br />
expanding and contracting wonderland, to<br />
be enjoyed and explored, but only <strong>with</strong><br />
caution and respect for the power of the<br />
sea. Fortunately when we took to the water<br />
we were in the hands of an expert, the<br />
dynamic Derek Hairon who runs <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Kayak Adventures. A paddling Pied Piper,<br />
Derek guided us through one of the most<br />
memorable days I’ve ever spent anywhere<br />
in the world.<br />
KAYAKING TO LES ECREHOUS ISLANDS<br />
BBC TV sports reporter Hazel Irvine isn’t the kind of girl<br />
who likes to sit still. With her equally energetic Other Half,<br />
she spent an action-packed weekend in <strong>Jersey</strong>. It almost<br />
wore her out…<br />
32 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 33
All at<br />
Sea<br />
WATCHING THE WILDLIFE LANDING ON LES ECREHOUS JERSEY FLAG<br />
Leaving the breakwater at St Catherine on a<br />
sunny, flat-calm early morning we powered<br />
away on board our ‘mothership’, Equinox, a<br />
large RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) <strong>with</strong> Captain<br />
Dean at the wheel. We were bound for Les<br />
Ecrehous, a granite reef six miles off the<br />
north-east coast. So special is this place that<br />
I’m almost afraid to say too much about it<br />
lest it becomes overrun <strong>with</strong> visitors and<br />
loses its magic.<br />
What a weird and wonderful sight these<br />
tiny islands are. At high tide all that’s visible<br />
of Les Ecrehous are a handful of rocky<br />
outcrops defiantly sitting above the water<br />
line. Upon them nestle a score of small<br />
huts, some of simple grey stone, others<br />
whitewashed. They were once fishermen’s<br />
refuges, which have been passed down<br />
through generations of families. Now<br />
they’re used as the ultimate in getaway<br />
holiday cabins. The scene reminded me of a<br />
curious collection of Monopoly houses and<br />
hotels… perched on a bit of real estate that<br />
money just can’t buy.<br />
34 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
At low tide, things get even better. The<br />
surface area of the islands expands by<br />
around 80% as the sea drains away to<br />
reveal a stony, lunar-style landscape and<br />
spectacular crescent-shaped shingle bank.<br />
We unloaded our kayaks from the RIB and<br />
settled into our sturdy, buoyant little crafts.<br />
With paddle in hand, we began to explore<br />
the ever-rising and falling waters around<br />
the reef. The Other Half and I are hardly<br />
Olympic kayaking material but this kind of<br />
waterborne adventuring was, whilst at<br />
times energetic, surprisingly straightforward<br />
and very relaxing. Pushing through the<br />
crystal-clear water I was struck by how<br />
peaceful a place this is.<br />
Catching the swooping cries of curlews and<br />
oystercatchers, we paddled along the socalled<br />
‘Suez Canal’ between islands that<br />
bear names such as La Marmotiere and Le<br />
Blianque Île. We peered down into the<br />
lagoons. Below us long strands of black<br />
bootlace weed and fronds of pink feathery<br />
Sargassum were languidly going <strong>with</strong> the<br />
flow of the outgoing tide.<br />
Les Ecrehous lies <strong>with</strong>in virtual touching<br />
distance of the French mainland. Indeed<br />
fishermen and some French militants<br />
famously mounted a mini-invasion of the<br />
islands one morning in 1994, determined<br />
to wrest them from British sovereignty.<br />
They gave up on the idea around lunchtime,<br />
ate and went home.<br />
Happily this place still feels like a treasured<br />
secret that is shared only by those ‘in-theknow’<br />
from the two nations. Indeed there<br />
were as many Tricolours as Union Jacks flying<br />
from the handful of vessels anchored in the<br />
main lagoon that balmy Saturday afternoon.<br />
After beaching the kayaks on the main<br />
island we enjoyed a well-earned picnic lunch<br />
on the shingle beach and wandered around<br />
on (then) dry land. Moving up and amongst<br />
the little huddle of huts on La Marmotiere<br />
we came to a tiny main square. A wall still<br />
bears the official <strong>Jersey</strong> States ‘Customs<br />
House’ sign sculpted into the stone.<br />
I couldn’t help but wonder what it would<br />
feel like to be stranded there at high tide in<br />
an English Channel storm <strong>with</strong> the waters<br />
rising rapidly around you. A little<br />
disconcerting, I shouldn’t wonder. Indeed,<br />
as Derek regaled us <strong>with</strong> tales about the<br />
islands, I could empathise <strong>with</strong> one poor<br />
fellow who’d had to lash himself to the<br />
outside of his hut for survival during a<br />
particularly nasty night.<br />
Fortunately for us the warm, serene<br />
conditions continued as we mounted an<br />
afternoon assault in our kayaks on the now<br />
incoming tide. With Derek’s tuition, we were<br />
able to see the outer reaches of the reef by<br />
forcing our way across much faster-running<br />
streams of rushing, incoming water. Then,<br />
as we circumnavigated the smaller outcrops<br />
that poked above the tide, several large<br />
seals magically played cat-and-mouse <strong>with</strong><br />
us as we paddled.<br />
‘What a weird and wonderful sight these tiny islands are.<br />
At high tide all that’s visible of Les Ecrehous are a handful<br />
of rocky outcrops defiantly sitting above the water line.’<br />
All too soon it was time leave this magical<br />
place. As we loaded the kayaks onto<br />
Captain Dean’s sturdy ‘mothership’ the sea<br />
was already engulfing the islands as quickly<br />
as it had deserted them. Les Ecrehous really<br />
do stir the imagination. And sitting just a<br />
few inches above the water on a kayak is<br />
surely the best way to experience this<br />
amazing archipelago.<br />
In truth, there’s a huge range of outdoor<br />
pursuits available in <strong>Jersey</strong> that will fire your<br />
adrenaline and get the blood pumping. On<br />
the vast expanse of white sand at St Ouen’s<br />
Bay we sat down for a while – a little jaded<br />
by this point, I confess – and watched<br />
scores of wet-suited surfers as they soaked<br />
up the sun and the swell. It was a cool,<br />
energetic 21st-century <strong>Jersey</strong> twist on<br />
buckets, spades and knotted handkerchiefs.<br />
We did summon enough energy to squeeze<br />
in a quick and pleasant nine holes of golf at<br />
Wheatlands Golf Course, a venue opened by<br />
former Ryder Cup captain Ian Woosnam.<br />
LES ECREHOUS, OFF JERSEY’S NORTH-EAST COAST<br />
(We’re already formulating plans to come<br />
back and play the island’s other six courses.)<br />
Then, there was just enough time for a last<br />
exhilarating blast of salty sea air on board<br />
yachtmaster Peter Carnegie’s stunning 42ft<br />
ocean-going craft, Caprice. Our skipper for<br />
a four-hour trip off the southern coast of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> was the amiable Mark Tucker and his<br />
crew James. Although I was a little nervous<br />
about taking the helm – Caprice is, after<br />
all, a splendid and rather expensive vessel –<br />
Mark patiently showed me the ropes and I<br />
found myself at the wheel as the yacht<br />
reached out and tilted into a robust wind.<br />
What a thrilling feeling it was, our mainsail<br />
gripped and taut, as we surged through the<br />
waves at a healthy eight knots.<br />
Talk about a dynamic weekend! The Other<br />
Half and I are already carbo-loading in<br />
preparation for a return visit…<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 35
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Activity Island<br />
An Action-Packed<br />
Weekend<br />
Hazel Irvine and her partner stayed at<br />
Hotel Cristina, Mont Felard, St Aubin’s<br />
Bay, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 1JA. It’s very<br />
comfortable and friendly, <strong>with</strong> beautiful<br />
terraces and stunning views overlooking<br />
the bay.<br />
Tel 01534 758024<br />
www.dolanhotels.com<br />
They Went Offshore <strong>with</strong>:<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Kayak Adventures, St Clement<br />
Tel 01534 853138 or 07797<br />
853033<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>kayakadventures.co.uk<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Sailing<br />
Tel 01534 851983 or 07797<br />
729240<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>sailing.com<br />
They Played Golf at:<br />
Wheatlands Golf Course, St Peter<br />
Tel 01534 888877<br />
www.wheatlands<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
They Hired Bikes from:<br />
Zebra Cycles<br />
Tel 01534 736556<br />
www.zebrahire.com<br />
36 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Outdoor Active<br />
There’s a huge range of activities on offer in <strong>Jersey</strong>. It’s an outdoor<br />
kind of place, <strong>with</strong> good weather, big beaches, great surf and inviting<br />
seas. And inland, you can go cycling, play golf or get to grips <strong>with</strong><br />
adventure sports. We have included some samples from our all-action<br />
activities scene here. For the full picture go to: www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Activity Operators<br />
Active Island Sports, St Brelade’s Bay<br />
Open All Year.<br />
Tel 07797 717564<br />
www.activeislandsports.com<br />
Adventures Unlimited, St Martin<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 873074 or 07797 727503<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>adventures.com<br />
Atlantic Waves School of Surfing,<br />
St Ouen’s Bay<br />
Open May–September.<br />
Tel 01534 744157 or 07797 718150<br />
email: atlanticlaneez@hotmail.com<br />
Conjuring Kites Kitesurfing School,<br />
St Helier<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 618548 or 07797 727207<br />
email: seakites@aol.com<br />
Extreme <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel: 07797 717564 & 07797 736411<br />
www.extreme<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Gorey Watersports, Grouville<br />
Open daily 10am–5pm July and August.<br />
Tel 07797 816528<br />
www.goreywatersports.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Aero Club, Airport, St Peter<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 743990<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>aeroclub.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Karting, The Living Legend, St Peter<br />
Open March–November.<br />
Tel 01534 485855<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>slivinglegend.co.je<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Kayak Adventures, St Clement<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 853138 or 07797 853033<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>kayakadventures.co.uk<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Odyssey<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 498636 or 07700 727430<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>odyssey.co.uk<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Sea Sport Centre, La Haule Slip,<br />
by St Aubin’s Village<br />
Open 9am–5.30pm May–mid-September.<br />
Tel 07797 738180<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>seasport.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Surf School, Watersplash,<br />
St Ouen’s Bay<br />
Open April–September.<br />
Tel 01534 484005<br />
www.cisurf.com<br />
Kite School <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Open April–October.<br />
Tel 01534 638888<br />
www.pureadventure<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
<strong>Pure</strong> Adventure, St Helier<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 638888 or 07797 721050<br />
www.pureadventure<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Sand, Surf and Sail, St Ouen’s Bay<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 483707<br />
Skydive <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Open February–November.<br />
Tel 01534 747410 or 07797 737730<br />
www.skydive<strong>jersey</strong>.net<br />
Surf ’n’ Sun Watersports, St Brelade’s Bay<br />
Open May–September.<br />
Tel 07797 736411<br />
email: mackleys@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk<br />
Waterfront Watersports Centre, St Helier<br />
Open April–September.<br />
Tel 01534 638888<br />
www.pureadventure<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Operators<br />
Active Island Sports ! ! !<br />
Adventures Unlimited ! !<br />
Atlantic Waves School !<br />
Conjuring Kites School !<br />
Extreme <strong>Jersey</strong> !<br />
Gorey Watersports ! ! !<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Aero Club !<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Karting !<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Kayak Adventures !<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Odyssey ! ! ! ! ! !<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Sea Sport Centre ! ! ! ! ! !<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Surf School !<br />
Kite School <strong>Jersey</strong> !<br />
<strong>Pure</strong> Adventure ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<br />
Skydive <strong>Jersey</strong> !<br />
Sand, Surf & Sail !<br />
Surf & Sun Watersports ! ! !<br />
Hotel Cristina<br />
Surfing & Bodyboarding<br />
Jet Skiing<br />
Kitesurfing<br />
Wakeboarding<br />
Windsurfing<br />
Water Skiing<br />
Sea Kayaking<br />
Blokarting<br />
Visitors to the Hotel Cristina never fail<br />
to comment on the fantastic views<br />
from the balconies and terraces.<br />
Overlooking the vista of St Aubin’s Bay,<br />
the south-facing hotel offers hours of<br />
sunshine to be enjoyed in the lush<br />
gardens and outdoor heated pool in the<br />
hotel’s private grounds. Only a couple<br />
of minutes’ walk from the beach, and<br />
just a mile and a half from <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
main town St Helier, the Cristina<br />
provides the perfect setting for guests<br />
to explore the island at their own pace.<br />
The bedrooms are stylishly furnished in<br />
a bright, modern style that is matched<br />
in the thriving brasserie-style Indigo<br />
Restaurant <strong>with</strong> a fresh, light menu<br />
that changes daily.<br />
Coasteering<br />
Rock Climbing & Abseiling<br />
Sky Diving<br />
Karting<br />
Flying<br />
<strong>Pure</strong> Adventure Centre<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s newest attraction, based in a<br />
beautiful natural valley at Les Ormes<br />
Leisure Centre in St Brelade, is<br />
scheduled to open in May 2008. Its<br />
high-adrenaline features include an<br />
exciting high ropes course <strong>with</strong> three<br />
different height levels suitable for all the<br />
family. There’s also a 330ft ‘Big Zipper’<br />
zip wire ride and 40ft vertical parachute<br />
descent. Other activities include a<br />
climbing and abseil tower, the ‘King<br />
Swing’, a low ropes/problem solving<br />
course, a military-style assault course,<br />
archery, raft building and orienteering.<br />
Tel 01534 638888<br />
www.pureadventure<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Hotel Cristina<br />
Mont Felard<br />
St Aubin’s Bay<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 8EF<br />
Tel 01534 712850<br />
Fax 01534 758028<br />
email: cristina@dolanhotels.com<br />
www.cristina<strong>jersey</strong>.com
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Activity Island<br />
Surfing Clubs<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Bodyboarding<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>bodyboarding.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Longboard Club<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>longboarders.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Surfboard Club<br />
www.surfing<strong>jersey</strong>.net<br />
Dive Operators<br />
Bouley Bay Diving Centre<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 866990<br />
www.scubadiving<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
H2O Sports Ltd, St Helier<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 880934 or 07797 723941<br />
www.dive<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Sub Aqua Club, St Helier<br />
Open all year.<br />
www.jsac.org.uk<br />
TT Divers, St Lawrence<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 07797 783183<br />
www.ttdivers.co.uk<br />
38 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Sailing, Fishing and Boat Charters<br />
Anna II Fishing Trips, St Helier<br />
Available all year.<br />
Tel 01534 888552 or 07797 725301<br />
www.fishing<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk<br />
Channel Charter, St Helier<br />
Available all year.<br />
Tel 07797 761902 or 07797 728099<br />
www.channelcharter.com<br />
Island RIB Voyages, St Helier<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 638888<br />
www.pureadventure<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>Sailing.com<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 851983 or 07797 729240<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>sailing.com<br />
Ocean Discoveries, St Helier<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 07797 742338<br />
www.oceandiscoveries.co.uk<br />
Raleigh Sailing<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 607910 or 07797 734303<br />
www.raleighsailing.com<br />
South Coast Cruises, St Helier<br />
Open April–October.<br />
Tel 01534 732466<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>cruises.com<br />
Stay and Sail, Trinity<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 869075 or 07797 820701<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>stayandsail.co.uk<br />
Tarka Sea Trips, St Clement’s<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 858046 or 07797 728316<br />
www.tarkaseatrips.com<br />
Visiting Yachtsmen<br />
The island’s three yacht clubs all extend a<br />
big welcome to visiting yachtsmen.<br />
The Royal Channel Islands Yacht Club,<br />
St Aubin<br />
Tel 01534 741023<br />
email: rciyc@localdial.com<br />
St Catherine’s Sailing Club, St Martin<br />
Tel 01534 857741<br />
www.scsc.org.je<br />
More yachting information overleaf R<br />
Drive to <strong>Jersey</strong> Four days away from just £149<br />
Take your car by CONDOR FERRIES from Weymouth or Poole and enjoy <strong>Jersey</strong> at its peaceful best.<br />
You’ll like the prices too – for example, four days away from just £149, and that includes taking your<br />
car FREE and a FREE hotel night. Taking your car gives you a door to door service, and you can pack as<br />
MUCH as you want. Just one call or click will book it all – stay from two nights to as long as you like.<br />
Condorbreaks include:<br />
© Return Fast Ferry crossings including<br />
your car<br />
© Sharing a twin or double room at your<br />
choice of 15 hotels – <strong>with</strong> breakfast<br />
© <strong>Jersey</strong> Parking Pack<br />
© Condorbreaks holiday information pack<br />
and island map<br />
Prices are per person based on a minimum<br />
of two adults. Free nights are based on<br />
B&B only. Room upgrades and dinner<br />
supplements apply to the full duration.<br />
Book <strong>with</strong> Confidence ABTA V1290.<br />
Here are just two of the 15 <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Breakaway hotels. See our website<br />
for the full selection.<br />
SHAKESPEARE St Clement ★★★<br />
The most southerly hotel in the British Isles, only two miles from<br />
St Helier, faces the sea and enjoys views along the south coast<br />
and across to France • Award winning restaurant offering table<br />
d'hote and à la carte menus • Private access to beach • Sun<br />
lounge and two sea-facing bars overlooking the patio • Weekly<br />
Manager's reception • Lift • Car park<br />
ADDED VALUE FREE NIGHTS AS INDICATED<br />
Prices in £pp based on commencement date<br />
HOL COMM DATE 2 NTS 3 NTS 4 NTS EX NT<br />
UP TO 15 MAR 149 149 179 33<br />
16 MAR - 21 APR 155 179 179 33<br />
22 APR - 23 MAY 165 195 195 37<br />
SUPPLEMENTS (PPPN): DINNER £10, SEA VIEW £5<br />
L’HORIZON St Brelade ★★★★<br />
Ideally situated alongside the sandy beach, this first class hotel is<br />
renowned for its traditional service and superb cuisine where<br />
there is a choice of three restaurants • Leisure club comprising<br />
indoor pool, saunas, Jacuzzi, steam rooms and mini-gym • Beauty<br />
salon (extra cost) • Elegant lounges • Sun terrace <strong>with</strong> stunning<br />
sea views • 24-hour room service • Lift • Car park<br />
ADDED VALUE FREE NIGHTS AS INDICATED<br />
Prices in £pp based on commencement date<br />
HOL COMM DATE 2 NTS 3 NTS 4 NTS EX NT<br />
UP TO 15 MAR 209 209 269 65<br />
16 MAR - 23 APR 219 219 279 66<br />
24 APR - 23 MAY 265 345 345 87<br />
SUPPLEMENTS (PPPN): DINNER £24, OCEAN VIEW £35<br />
Click on to book – or call 0845 60 33 121
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Activity Island<br />
St Helier Yacht Club, South Pier<br />
Tel 01534 721307<br />
www.shyc.je<br />
Harbour Information<br />
St Helier has three modern well-equipped<br />
marinas catering for a wide range of craft.<br />
St Helier Marina is <strong>Jersey</strong>’s main visiting<br />
marina, <strong>with</strong> berthing for up to 200 visiting<br />
yachts, accessible three hours each side of<br />
high water. Elizabeth Marina is the island’s<br />
newest marina <strong>with</strong> 564 berths ranging<br />
from 20ft to 65ft. Available to nonresidents<br />
on one-, five- and ten-year<br />
leases. La Collette Basin is <strong>Jersey</strong>’s deepwater<br />
marina <strong>with</strong> access at all states of<br />
the tide.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Harbours, Maritime House, St Helier<br />
Tel 01534 885588<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>-harbours.com<br />
Fishing<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s coastline offers excellent shore<br />
fishing from rocks, harbours and<br />
breakwaters. And the island’s huge tidal<br />
range brings a kaleidoscope of marine life.<br />
There are rich fishing grounds in the inshore<br />
waters too, and boat charter is easy to<br />
arrange. For freshwater anglers, there’s<br />
good reservoir fly-fishing for trout. Val de<br />
la Mare and Queen’s Valley reservoirs are<br />
40 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
set aside for game fishing and coarse<br />
anglers can fish at Dannemarche and<br />
Millbrook reservoirs. The season runs from<br />
June 1st to March 31st. For further<br />
information contact the <strong>Jersey</strong> Freshwater<br />
Angling Association (tel 01534 861083<br />
evenings; email: jffa@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk).<br />
For the full picture go to:<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/fishing<br />
Golf<br />
It’s advisable to book at all courses to<br />
avoid disappointment. Please check <strong>with</strong><br />
individual clubs about hiring of equipment<br />
and dress code.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Recreation Grounds, St Clement<br />
Nine-hole course <strong>with</strong> par three and four<br />
holes. Other facilities include putting<br />
green, crazy golf, bowls, boules, tennis<br />
and restaurant.<br />
Tel 01534 721938<br />
Longueville Golf Range, St Clement<br />
Golf range <strong>with</strong> 25 bays. Tuition and club<br />
hire available.<br />
Tel 01534 519922<br />
Les Mielles Golf and Country Club,<br />
St Ouen<br />
Eighteen-hole golf course <strong>with</strong> shop,<br />
clubhouse bar and restaurant. Separate<br />
driving range and activity centre including<br />
miniature golf and laser clay pigeon shooting.<br />
Tel 01534 482787<br />
www.lesmielles.com<br />
La Moye Golf Club, St Brelade<br />
This 18-hole links type course of over<br />
6,500 yards presents a good challenge for<br />
golfers of all handicaps. Features large sand<br />
hills, pot bunkers, gorse bushes and<br />
punishing rough.<br />
Tel 01534 743401<br />
www.lamoyegolfclub.co.uk<br />
Les Ormes Golf and Leisure Village,<br />
St Peter<br />
Facilities include a 17-bay covered driving<br />
range <strong>with</strong> automatic pop-up tees, practice<br />
green and bunker. Also a golf and tennis<br />
shop, fitness centre, bar/restaurant.<br />
Tel 01534 497000<br />
www.lesormes.je<br />
Royal <strong>Jersey</strong> Golf Club, Grouville<br />
The oldest established golf club in <strong>Jersey</strong>,<br />
<strong>with</strong> a challenging 18-hole course. Visitors<br />
are welcome 10am–12noon and<br />
2pm–4pm, Monday–Friday, and after<br />
2.30pm on weekends.<br />
Tel 01534 854416<br />
Golden Sands<br />
Wheatlands Golf Course, St Peter<br />
Nine-hole golf course established in 1994<br />
and officially opened by former Ryder Cup<br />
Captain Ian Woosnam. Visiting golfers<br />
welcome and may compete in ‘open<br />
competitions’ every Thursday May–<br />
September.<br />
Tel 01534 888877<br />
www.wheatlands<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Cycling<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets,<br />
<strong>with</strong> around 350 miles of roads, byways<br />
and lanes to explore. Pedalling is pure<br />
pleasure – especially on those peaceful<br />
Green Lanes and the island’s 96-mile<br />
signposted cycle network. For such a small<br />
island there’s also a surprising number of<br />
excellent bike shops stocking masses of<br />
accessories, clothing and spare parts. Most<br />
shops can also repair or service your bike.<br />
Cycle hire is also available. For more details<br />
visit: www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com/cycling<br />
Bringing Your Own Bike<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism has details of establishments<br />
that have cycle racks or a safe and secure<br />
For beach-lovers, the Golden Sands<br />
enjoys one of the finest locations of<br />
any hotel in <strong>Jersey</strong>. Its prime spot in the<br />
centre of St Brelade’s Bay makes the<br />
most of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s sunshine and warm<br />
climate, <strong>with</strong> the shaded crescentshaped<br />
sands being perfect for families<br />
and bathers of all ages, as well as the<br />
more active who can enjoy volleyball<br />
and a range of water sports. With<br />
panoramic sea views and the gentle<br />
sound of the waves, the Golden Sands<br />
is great for those who want direct<br />
access to the beach. The comfortable<br />
rooms, most boasting balconies and sea<br />
views, are well designed and, <strong>with</strong> a<br />
flexible friendly approach, the hotel is<br />
also perfect for families<br />
alternative. Please check <strong>with</strong> your airline<br />
before booking to make sure that they will<br />
carry your bike.<br />
Condor Ferries take bicycles free of charge<br />
Tel 0870 243 5140<br />
www.condorferries.com<br />
Cycle Hire<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Cycletours, St Aubin<br />
Tel 01534 746780 or 07797 775124<br />
email: <strong>jersey</strong>cycletours@yahoo.co.uk<br />
Zebra Cycles, St Helier<br />
Tel 01534 736556<br />
www.zebrahire.com<br />
Cycling Publications<br />
Please see page 59 for more details.<br />
Golden Sands Hotel<br />
La Route de la Baie<br />
St Brelade’s Bay<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 8EF<br />
Tel 01534 491058<br />
Fax 01534 499366<br />
email: goldensands@dolanhotels.com<br />
www.goldensands<strong>jersey</strong>.com
The Car-Free<br />
Challenge<br />
GRÈVE DE LECQ<br />
SEE THE ISLAND BY BUS ST AUBIN ST BRELADE’S BAY<br />
How easy is it to get around <strong>Jersey</strong> the by bus? Roger Thomas, whose previous<br />
experiences of public transport left him lukewarm to the idea, finds out.<br />
They mightn’t go down <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
specially designated ‘Green Lanes’ –<br />
those narrow country roads where<br />
traffic is discouraged and walkers and<br />
cyclists are welcomed – but the island’s<br />
‘green’ transport network gets you just<br />
about everywhere else. I’m talking about<br />
the pale-blue (should that be green?)<br />
Connex buses you see everywhere in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. And I mean everywhere.<br />
It came as something of a culture shock. I<br />
live in a part of the UK where buses are so<br />
rare they’re on the endangered species list<br />
and trains are about as reliable as a<br />
politician’s promise. Then, on my first visit<br />
to the island, I took a drive out to the<br />
island’s rugged north coast, a peaceful area<br />
lightly populated by scattered hamlets and<br />
small villages. To my amazement I saw at<br />
least five buses before giving up the count.<br />
They obviously work well for the locals. But<br />
are they a feasible way of getting around the<br />
island for visitors? Do they take you to<br />
where you want to go? And do you still need<br />
a car? I decided to road test the system.<br />
10.15am, St Helier<br />
I buy an Island Explorer unlimited travel day<br />
ticket and set off on the ‘blue’ route. A<br />
quick word of explanation is needed here.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> is latticed <strong>with</strong> bus routes. The<br />
Island Explorer scheme, aimed at visitors,<br />
rationalises most of them into four<br />
interconnecting services designated blue,<br />
red, yellow and green. These also link up<br />
<strong>with</strong> more local, ‘off-piste’ routes to<br />
obscure nooks and crannies, giving –<br />
theoretically – impressive pan-island<br />
coverage. I’m about to find out how it all<br />
works on the ground – or rather in the bus.<br />
There’s not a seat to be found on the bus as<br />
we drive west along St Aubin’s Bay then up<br />
over the wooded headland to St Brelade’s<br />
Bay, a smaller version of St Aubin’s. The<br />
sands at sheltered, south-facing St<br />
Brelade’s curl round in a delicious crescent<br />
and I can’t resist a walk on the beach. So I<br />
hop off the bus and do just that, followed<br />
by a cappuccino on the terrace of a beach<br />
café in the morning sun.<br />
11.34am, St Brelade’s Bay<br />
Here’s the next bus, right on time. This is<br />
already turning into a grand sightseeing<br />
tour of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s iconic sites as the bus does<br />
a little loop of the Corbière peninsula taking<br />
in the famous lighthouse (and, as if stagemanaged<br />
by <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism, some caramelcoloured<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> cows munching<br />
contentedly in the fields), before running<br />
alongside St Ouen’s Bay. As we drive along<br />
its vast, west-facing beach I have<br />
grandstand views of dunes to my right and<br />
kitesurfers skipping over the waves to my<br />
left. Some passengers get off at <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Pearl, a popular out-of-town shopping<br />
destination. I stay on board until we reach<br />
Grève de Lecq on the north coast. I’ve an<br />
hour to wait for the next bus, and I can’t<br />
think of a better place on the island in<br />
which to while away 60 minutes.<br />
Grève de Lecq is impossibly pretty. It ticks<br />
all the seaside boxes for me – a quayside,<br />
rich red sands, swooping green headland,<br />
more of those delightful <strong>Jersey</strong> beach cafés<br />
and – as a bonus for all classic machinery<br />
freaks (me included) – a collection of<br />
ancient tractors in various shades of rust<br />
and red, still going strong hauling fishing<br />
boats off the beach.<br />
There’s another bonus too. By accident I’ve<br />
stumbled across a refreshment stop for the<br />
annual around-island charity walk that<br />
started in St Helier at 3am. It’s 48 miles in<br />
total and Grève de Lecq is just over halfway.<br />
‘My knees are starting to play up and I’ve<br />
got a few blisters,’ says one remarkably<br />
upbeat participant. Like the rest, she was<br />
determined to make the finish at 8pm.<br />
1.17pm, Grève de Lecq<br />
Confusion and commotion! The timetable<br />
isn’t that difficult to fathom but the arrival<br />
of a few buses close together has sent<br />
some Island Explorers into a spin. Our bus<br />
driver cheerily reassures worried<br />
passengers. ‘Would anyone else like me to<br />
plan their holiday?’ he asks <strong>with</strong> a grin. ‘I<br />
thought you’d have this all worked out<br />
before you got on the bus.’<br />
42 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 43
The Car-Free<br />
Challenge<br />
We’re plunged into <strong>Jersey</strong>’s Arcadian woods<br />
and hidden valleys on a cross-island route<br />
back to St Helier, but I depart the blue<br />
route at The Living Legend – a major,<br />
multi-faceted attraction – to connect up<br />
<strong>with</strong> the yellow route eastwards.<br />
1.45pm, The Living Legend<br />
Just a few minutes to wait before the bus<br />
arrives. I get talking to Helen Akitt from<br />
High Wycombe. She’s proof positive that<br />
you don’t need a car in <strong>Jersey</strong>. ‘I got a bus<br />
from the airport. There’s a lot to see in a<br />
small space but I’ve been very favourably<br />
impressed by public transport. There’s<br />
plenty of it.’<br />
Helen is being more creative <strong>with</strong> the<br />
timetable than me, venturing off the four<br />
coloured routes by using those truly offthe-beaten-track<br />
local bus services that<br />
plumb into the major network, taking her to<br />
AL FRESCO DINING AT GOREY DURRELL WILDLIFE<br />
locations where she can pick up stretches<br />
of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s spectacular coastal footpath.<br />
And she’s not alone. Her experiences are<br />
echoed by a group from Leicester staying<br />
near St Helier. ‘It’s been a life-saver for us.<br />
We’re keen walkers and have used the<br />
service every day. The drivers are so polite<br />
and helpful and it all links up very well,<br />
including the attractions.’<br />
It’s true. I’m also impressed by the way the<br />
various routes take in all the island’s big<br />
attractions – and some smaller places to<br />
visit too. Next stop, for example, is La Mare<br />
Vineyards followed by <strong>Jersey</strong> Gold then –<br />
the doyen of them all – Durrell Wildlife. We<br />
arrive here at 2.20pm, the end of the line<br />
for the yellow route.<br />
I’ve visited this world-class conservation<br />
project a few times before but everyone else<br />
on the bus makes a bee-line for the gorillas,<br />
orang-utans and other endangered species<br />
who live here in realistic, non-zoo like settings.<br />
2.35pm, Durrell Wildlife<br />
Time to go green and link into the green<br />
route that loops around the east coast of<br />
the island. The bus is packed <strong>with</strong> visitors<br />
returning from Durrell – and, like Durrell’s<br />
inhabitants, we’re a truly cosmopolitan<br />
bunch. There’s a mix of British, Dutch,<br />
Japanese, French and Americans, young and<br />
old, all gabbing away happily as the bus<br />
stops at La Hougue Bie.<br />
Again, I’ve been lucky enough to visit this<br />
remarkable prehistoric site before. Forget<br />
Stonehenge, nowadays sadly cloistered<br />
away from the public. At La Hougue Bie you<br />
can still touch and explore, having a close<br />
encounter <strong>with</strong> the ancient stones that<br />
went into the construction of this passage<br />
grave buried at the base of a steep mound.<br />
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but also our total flexibility. We can book<br />
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value car hire and holiday insurance.<br />
‘It’s been a life-saver for us.<br />
We’re keen walkers and<br />
have used the service every<br />
day. The drivers are so<br />
polite and helpful and it all<br />
links up very well, including<br />
the attractions.’<br />
I was tempted to get off the bus for<br />
another dose of magic and mystery, but<br />
had a date <strong>with</strong> Gorey. Gorey Pier and<br />
St Aubin are brother and sister, two<br />
picturesque little ports at opposite ends of<br />
the island. I still can’t make my mind up<br />
which one I like most, though Gorey does<br />
have an ace up its sleeve in the presence of<br />
Mont Orgueil Castle rearing its mighty head<br />
above the harbour. It has to be the most<br />
photographed place in <strong>Jersey</strong>. You’ve<br />
probably seen the pictures.<br />
Whether you want a luxury spa weekend,<br />
an activity break, a walking or cycling<br />
holiday or just want to relax, we can help.<br />
And our 2008 brochure is<br />
packed <strong>with</strong> great deals:<br />
• Special offers on car hire<br />
• Free night offers<br />
• Free evening meals<br />
Early booking is recommended if you want<br />
to take advantage of these great booking<br />
offers and the best possible travel prices.<br />
But my rendezvous was not – this time –<br />
<strong>with</strong> the castle. Gorey was throwing a<br />
party to celebrate its annual regatta day.<br />
The restaurant-lined quayside was serving<br />
even more food than usual, thanks to the<br />
addition of stalls selling everything from<br />
local oysters to jams and preserves,<br />
gambas to glasses of champagne.<br />
4.15pm, Gorey Pier<br />
I’m taking a leaf out of Helen Akitt’s book.<br />
Instead of returning to St Helier on the direct<br />
green route I’ve caught the ‘off-network’<br />
local service that runs every half-hour back<br />
to the capital. Why? Because this route<br />
follows the coast all the way, giving<br />
commanding views of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s strange<br />
south-eastern shores (top tip: grab a window<br />
seat on the left-hand side of the bus).<br />
When the tide is out you can see miles of<br />
rock and reef. But <strong>Jersey</strong>’s massive tidal<br />
range – one of the highest in the world –<br />
means that twice a day this eerie expanse<br />
is submerged beneath the waves. I’ve<br />
timed it just right: the tide is out.<br />
Tel 01534 496666<br />
(open 7 days a week)<br />
Or go to www.<strong>jersey</strong>travel.com/sg<br />
4.40pm, St Helier<br />
Back at base. I’ve always been sceptical<br />
about public transport. Truth be told, I’m a<br />
bit of a petrolhead at heart – like, I<br />
suspect, lots of you out there. I’ve always<br />
justified this love affair in terms of the lack<br />
of realistic alternatives. But when public<br />
transport does work I’ll admit that my<br />
relationship is on shakier ground.<br />
The Island Explorer was an eye-opener for<br />
me. It demonstrated what can be achieved<br />
when joined-up thinking leads to joined-up<br />
services. My particular trip was one of<br />
countless variations on a theme. So here’s<br />
some honest advice from a dedicated car<br />
man. Leave the keys at home, pick up a<br />
timetable, create your own tour of the<br />
island, and buy an Island Explorer. You’ll pay<br />
just £6 for the day ticket. That’s a bargain.<br />
No, make that a double bargain. <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
unfathomable car parking rules will, along<br />
<strong>with</strong> the scenery, pass you by.<br />
44 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 45
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Island Exploration<br />
WINE TASTING AT LA MARE ESTATE<br />
Getting around by Bus<br />
It’s simplicity itself to explore <strong>Jersey</strong> <strong>with</strong>out a car. The island is<br />
small and well served <strong>with</strong> a network of bus routes that take you<br />
almost everywhere – to the big beaches in the south and west and<br />
the remoter north coast, as well as to most of the attractions and<br />
places to visit.<br />
The bus routes radiate from Liberation<br />
Station, Jubilee Wharf, St Helier’s brandnew<br />
bus station. Explorer tickets are<br />
available for one, three and five days, and<br />
most of the new fleet have easy access for<br />
wheelchair users.<br />
Island Explorer consists of four routes –<br />
red, blue, green and yellow – which run<br />
seven days a week from April to November<br />
inclusive. These are fully integrated <strong>with</strong><br />
the scheduled Mybus network, allowing<br />
travel on both services using the same<br />
passes. Because of the full integration <strong>with</strong><br />
the main network, Island Explorer buses<br />
serve all the stops along the various routes.<br />
46 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Connex Buses<br />
Connex buses are the main carrier in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
For further information, please contact:<br />
Connex Transport <strong>Jersey</strong> Ltd<br />
Tel 01534 877772<br />
www.mybus.je<br />
Coach Tours<br />
Island tours of <strong>Jersey</strong> are available for a<br />
morning, afternoon, evening or whole day.<br />
Full-day tours give an opportunity to get a<br />
real feel for the island. These leisurely,<br />
informative tours, starting in St Helier,<br />
include most of the island’s bays <strong>with</strong><br />
refreshment and photo stops as well as lunch<br />
stops. The tours include visits to many local<br />
attractions, farms and gardens. A courtesy<br />
service operates from most hotels and<br />
pick-up points to connect <strong>with</strong> most tour<br />
departures from the main coach station.<br />
FUN AND GAMES AT THE AMAIZIN! MAZE<br />
Liberation Station<br />
The passenger hall at this all-new bus<br />
station provides an indoor area where you<br />
can wait until your bus is ready for<br />
boarding. It is equipped <strong>with</strong> seating,<br />
airport-style information display screens, a<br />
café and information desk. In the evenings,<br />
any services departing after 6.40pm will<br />
operate from the four pavement bays<br />
outside the station, where there is a<br />
covered waiting area for passengers.<br />
For more information, please contact:<br />
Tantivy Blue Coach Tours<br />
Tel 01534 706706<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>coaches.com<br />
Waverley Coaches<br />
Tel 01534 758360<br />
Minibusdirect<br />
Tel 07797 758504<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>minibus.com<br />
PAINTING AT GLAZE CRAZE, JERSEY POTTERY<br />
Great Days Out<br />
Another <strong>Jersey</strong> plus-point is the range and extent of its attractions<br />
and places to visit. The island’s internationally famous wildlife<br />
sanctuary is just the start of it all. Others include potteries and<br />
family parks, countryside centres and sports centres, castles<br />
and museums.<br />
aMaizin! Maze and Adventure Park,<br />
St Peter<br />
This award-winning attraction launches<br />
annually <strong>with</strong> aMaizin! Adventure Park,<br />
followed by aMaizin! Maze constructed<br />
entirely of the cereal crop maize, where<br />
puzzles and clues provide great family fun<br />
(maze only available during summer<br />
months). The popular aMaizin! Adventure<br />
Park offers many additional activities in a<br />
natural and safe environment. All activities<br />
and entertainment are included in the<br />
entrance fee. Maze and Adventure Park<br />
open April–September, Craft Centre open<br />
all year.<br />
Tel 01534 482116<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>leisure.com<br />
Discovery Pier, Gorey Pier<br />
A place that brings <strong>Jersey</strong>’s fabulously rich<br />
marine ecology on shore for visitors to see<br />
for themselves. Wildlife of wrecks on DVD,<br />
interactive fun for youngsters, a working<br />
rock pool, record-breaking fish and how the<br />
tides work are just some of its fascinating<br />
features. Open daily until end of October.<br />
Tel 01534 617704<br />
www.gov.je/PlanningEnvironment/<br />
Environment/<br />
Durrell Wildlife, Trinity<br />
The international headquarters of the<br />
Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust, set<br />
amongst a peaceful 32 acres/13ha in the<br />
north-east of the island. It’s home to a<br />
world-famous animal sanctuary where you<br />
can see exotic and endangered species<br />
from across the globe. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 860000<br />
www.durrellwildlife.org<br />
Elizabeth Castle, St Helier<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
Eric Young Orchid Foundation, Trinity<br />
Home to one of the world’s finest collections<br />
of orchids. There’s a scented, exotic<br />
recreation of orchid habitats and landscapes,<br />
along <strong>with</strong> climate-controlled nurseries in<br />
which many different species are grown.<br />
Open Wednesday–Saturday all year.<br />
Tel 01534 861963<br />
www.ericyoungorchidfoundation.com<br />
Hamptonne Country Life Museum,<br />
St Lawrence<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
La Hougue Bie, St Saviour<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Goldsmiths and Lion Park,<br />
St Lawrence<br />
Please see ‘The Art of Life – Shopping’<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file for details.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Museum, St Helier<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Pottery, Gorey<br />
A famous pottery and island attraction<br />
where you can see all stages of production<br />
from throwing to hand decoration by skilled<br />
artists. Personalise your own pottery at the<br />
‘Glaze Craze’, popular <strong>with</strong> adults and<br />
children alike. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 850850<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>pottery.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> War Tunnels, St Lawrence<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
The Living Legend, St Peter<br />
Large adventure and leisure village – a very<br />
popular island attraction. Award-winning<br />
multi-media recreation of <strong>Jersey</strong> through<br />
the ages, two challenging 18-hole golf<br />
courses, go-karting track, craft and<br />
shopping village, outdoor play area plus a<br />
full programme of live entertainment. Open<br />
March–November.<br />
Tel 01534 485496<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>slivinglegend.co.je<br />
More Places to Visit overleaf R<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 47
<strong>Jersey</strong>file: Island Exploration<br />
La Mare Wine Estate, St Mary<br />
Established in 1972, La Mare gets better<br />
and better. A new £1½-million state-ofthe-art<br />
winery and distillery complex<br />
includes all-new visitor facilities and a new<br />
restaurant specialising in local food. Guided<br />
tours of the vineyards, winery, distillery and<br />
chocolate factory include wine and<br />
chocolate tasting. Miniature ponies and an<br />
adventure playground keep the children<br />
entertained. Open April–October<br />
(Christmas Shop open November and<br />
December).<br />
Tel 01534 481178<br />
www.lamarewineestates.com<br />
Maritime Museum, St Helier<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
Mont Orgueil Castle, Gorey<br />
Please see ‘History and Heritage’ <strong>Jersey</strong>file<br />
for details.<br />
Pallot Steam, Motor and General Museum,<br />
Trinity<br />
Fascinating private collection of steam<br />
engines and other machinery. Display on<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Railways, steam and diesel train<br />
rides. Open daily (except Sundays)<br />
April–October.<br />
Tel 01534 865307<br />
wwww.pallotmuseum.co.uk<br />
Le Petit Train (departs from St Helier’s<br />
Liberation Square and St Aubin)<br />
Learn about <strong>Jersey</strong>’s history, fascinating<br />
facts and legends while travelling on this<br />
little train either around St Helier or to the<br />
harbour village of St Aubin. Runs<br />
April–October.<br />
Tel 07797 777199<br />
Samarès Manor, St Clement<br />
Beautiful historic house set in splendid<br />
gardens and grounds, <strong>with</strong> exotic<br />
specimens, herb garden and plant nursery.<br />
Craft demonstrations. For the children<br />
there are many animals to see – mules,<br />
Shetland ponies, sheep and donkeys.<br />
Open daily until mid-October.<br />
Tel 01534 870551<br />
www.samaresmanor.com<br />
48 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
SAMARÈS MANOR GARDENS<br />
Arts and Entertainment<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s thriving arts, crafts and entertainments scene is guaranteed<br />
to add an extra dimension to your visit. Call in at galleries and<br />
potteries. Take in a show or some live music.<br />
Craftwork<br />
For details of craft shops and workshops<br />
please see the ‘Art of Life – Shopping’<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>file.<br />
Entertainment<br />
Fort Regent, St Helier<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s largest entertainment venue. Fort<br />
Regent’s Gloucester Hall stages a great<br />
programme of events throughout the year.<br />
Tel 01534 449600<br />
www.gov.je/esc<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Arts Centre, St Helier<br />
Two theatres, an art gallery and café.<br />
Tel 01534 700400<br />
www.artscentre.je<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Opera House, St Helier<br />
A beautifully restored Edwardian theatre,<br />
the premier performance venue in the<br />
Channel Islands <strong>with</strong> a wide and diverse<br />
range of productions and entertainment.<br />
Tel 01534 511100<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>operahouse.co.uk<br />
St James, St Helier<br />
This highly flexible and atmospheric church<br />
conversion is used for a wide range of<br />
community events, concerts, experimental<br />
work and conferences.<br />
Tel 01534 700400<br />
www.artscentre.je<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Goldsmiths<br />
Nothing prepares you for the incredible<br />
style of <strong>Jersey</strong> Goldsmiths at Lion Park.<br />
This modern and luxurious showroom<br />
features the largest collection of<br />
jewellery in <strong>Jersey</strong>, together <strong>with</strong> a host<br />
of special features and facilities that the<br />
family can enjoy throughout the year.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Goldsmiths, Lion Park, St Lawrence, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 1GX<br />
Tel 01534 482098 Fax 01534 485183<br />
email: enquiries@<strong>jersey</strong>goldsmiths.com www.<strong>jersey</strong>goldsmiths.com<br />
JERSEY OPERA HOUSE<br />
AQUA SPLASH<br />
Whatever the Weather<br />
Swimming Pools<br />
Aqua Splash, Waterfront Centre,<br />
St Helier<br />
Leisure pool, lagoon, outdoor pool,<br />
children’s play area, flumes and slides.<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 734524<br />
Les Quennevais Sports Centre,<br />
St Brelade<br />
Swimming and sports activities.<br />
Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 490909<br />
www.gov.je/esc<br />
Indoor Activities<br />
Fort Regent Leisure Centre, St Helier<br />
Originally a Napoleonic fortress dating<br />
from 1806, the centre is <strong>Jersey</strong>’s largest<br />
leisure and entertainment venue. A host<br />
Lion Park Events<br />
Events are held at Lion Park on a monthly<br />
basis throughout the year.<br />
Educational children's workshops run for<br />
Mother's Day and Father's Day, where the<br />
children make a selection of hand made cards<br />
and presents for their parents.<br />
The Big Golden Egg Hunt<br />
around the park for Easter<br />
is a huge success, <strong>with</strong><br />
activities including egg<br />
and spoon races and the<br />
making of chick baskets.<br />
The Boat Club holds Boat Regattas across the<br />
freshwater lake and will be happy to show<br />
you the workings of these intricate machines.<br />
The annual 'Flower Power Festival' is held in<br />
August. This holistic art and craft fayre <strong>with</strong> a<br />
1960's hippie theme brings out all the love<br />
and peace in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
Please check out the website and the tourist<br />
office for further details on forthcoming events.<br />
of sports and facilities, including<br />
badminton, indoor bowls, basketball,<br />
children’s play area. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 449600<br />
www.gov.je/esc<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Bowl, St Peter’s<br />
18-lane bowling centre <strong>with</strong> automatic<br />
scoring. Quasar, video games and<br />
outdoor play area. Open all year.<br />
Tel 01534 490444<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>bowl.com<br />
Cinemas<br />
Cineworld <strong>Jersey</strong>, Waterfront, St Helier<br />
Tel 01534 756200<br />
www.cineworld.co.uk<br />
Forum Cinema, Bath Street, St Helier<br />
Tel 01534 871611<br />
www.forum.je<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 49
Living the<br />
Life<br />
What’s it like to live in <strong>Jersey</strong>? We talk<br />
to people who tell us their stories<br />
and what the island means to them.<br />
Interviews by Andy Stansfield<br />
and Roger Thomas.<br />
50 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Sean Faulkner<br />
Faulkner Fisheries<br />
At some point in your<br />
visit you will want to<br />
try one of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s splendid restaurants.<br />
There’s a fair chance that the seafood on the<br />
menu will be supplied by Faulkner Fisheries,<br />
based at L’Étacq at the northern end of St<br />
Ouen’s Bay. Proprietor Sean Faulkner has seawater<br />
running through his veins. The ocean<br />
and its bounty have played a major role in his<br />
life for as long as he can remember,<br />
Sean was brought up on this five-mile sandy<br />
bay on the west coast and recalls how his<br />
mother insisted that he went for a dip in the<br />
sea every day between May and September.<br />
Like many local people, he grew up gathering<br />
shellfish from the beach – it was not unusual<br />
for children to be told to go down to the<br />
beach to find their lunch! He spent seven<br />
years at sea on P&O cruise ships, returning<br />
in 1980 to start up a business on which he<br />
had been hooked since childhood.<br />
He started selling fish aged seven when he<br />
sold a conger eel to a local restaurant, soon<br />
to be followed by lobsters and spider crabs.<br />
At 13 he discovered that, by snorkelling<br />
from the beach, he could catch the much<br />
larger spider crabs found further out. By this<br />
time, the teenage entrepreneur was also<br />
using a boat to catch lobsters already<br />
pre-ordered by restaurants.<br />
As well as running the business, Sean also<br />
enjoys his leisure time at sea. He goes fishing<br />
for fun in his 13ft Orkney Spinner fishing<br />
boat, and is one of the many <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
inhabitants addicted to the incoming swells<br />
of St Ouen’s Bay: ‘I love surfing – that bug<br />
bit me very young, too.’<br />
But he loves nothing more than to take his<br />
second boat, a 36ft cruiser, out to the<br />
magical reefs of Les Ecrehous off the<br />
north-east coast <strong>with</strong> his wife Louise and<br />
their three children to see seals and dolphins<br />
and to collect shells. ‘These remote islets<br />
have gripped me since I was a child and now<br />
I’m introducing my children to that same<br />
feeling… they’re such a special place.’<br />
LES ECREHOUS, SEAN’S FAVOURITE PLACE<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 51
Living the<br />
Life<br />
52 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Dr Lee Durrell<br />
Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust<br />
Dr Lee Durrell has two<br />
passions in life –<br />
aeroplanes and animals,<br />
not necessarily in that<br />
order. They are not as<br />
mutually exclusive as you<br />
may think. An experienced pilot, she uses<br />
her twin-engined Navajo to transport<br />
animals to and from <strong>Jersey</strong> to sanctuaries<br />
around Europe for breeding purposes.<br />
By now, many of you will know where this<br />
is leading. The surname says it all. Durrell<br />
has become an island icon in <strong>Jersey</strong> along<br />
<strong>with</strong> the cows and potatoes. Lee was<br />
married to Gerald Durrell, the<br />
conservationist and author who founded<br />
the world-famous zoo on the island –<br />
though it’s not called that these days.<br />
‘Gerry was ahead of his time in so many<br />
ways,’ recalls Lee. ‘He was interested in<br />
conservation and bio-diversity long before<br />
they became fashionable.’ Gerald’s wildlife<br />
sanctuary in <strong>Jersey</strong> dates way back to<br />
1959. At first, it was a huge struggle, a<br />
hand-to-mouth enterprise run on a wing<br />
By the time he met Lee in the late 1970s<br />
the zoo had established itself on firmer<br />
ground. Lee, from Memphis, Tennessee,<br />
had only the sketchiest idea of what she<br />
was letting herself in for. ‘I thought the<br />
entire island was an animal sanctuary,’ she<br />
admits <strong>with</strong> a chuckle.<br />
When Gerald died in 1995, Lee – who has<br />
a PhD in animal behaviour – assumed his<br />
mantle of Honorary Director. She’s still heavily<br />
involved as Durrell Wildlife’s only permanent<br />
trustee, living ‘over the shop’ in an elegant<br />
17th-century farmhouse <strong>with</strong>in the grounds,<br />
surrounded by a fascinating clutter of aviation<br />
memorabilia, Noah’s Ark figurines and<br />
artefacts from her world travels.<br />
So where now for Durrell – or to give it its full<br />
title, the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust?<br />
‘What you see here is only the tip of the<br />
iceberg. The centre keeps us in the public eye<br />
– it’s a “window” on the work we do<br />
worldwide. It gives us the ability to get on<br />
<strong>with</strong> our mission of saving endangered<br />
species and to run things like our International<br />
Training Centre for people involved in animal<br />
conservation all over the world.<br />
and a prayer. If there’s one person who epitomises <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
‘I don’t like using the word “zoo” these<br />
days. In Europe – but strangely not in<br />
America – it has negative connotations of<br />
animals cooped up in cages.’<br />
It certainly doesn’t apply to Durrell, where,<br />
on a lush and lovely 31-acre site, great<br />
care and integrity have gone into<br />
replicating environments from the<br />
highlands and islands of the world such as<br />
the Andes and Madagascar.<br />
Lee still travels widely <strong>with</strong> her<br />
conservation work. But she’s firmly rooted<br />
in this small island. As she says, ‘I feel more<br />
at home here now than I do in America.’<br />
Alastair Christie<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Lavender Farm<br />
Sadie Renard<br />
Islander Extraordinaire<br />
living heritage it’s Sadie Renard, best known<br />
as the semi-official singer of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />
anthem for the last 12 years. But Sadie is<br />
also an organic dairy farmer <strong>with</strong> a pedigree<br />
herd of <strong>Jersey</strong> cattle, an ardent supporter of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s many ‘quirky customs’ as she<br />
describes them, and now works alternate<br />
weeks at Hamptonne Country Life Museum<br />
since giving up her job as a beautician, first<br />
<strong>with</strong> Dior and later <strong>with</strong> Chanel.<br />
Sadie was first asked to sing Beautiful<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> in 1994 for the 50th anniversary<br />
celebrations of the island’s liberation. Since<br />
then her emotional rendition of the island’s<br />
anthem has become a regular fixture at<br />
many events. She’s also an active member<br />
of her local amateur dramatic society and<br />
regularly attends the theatre and opera.<br />
Born on Clairval Farm in the lush green<br />
Although born outside <strong>Jersey</strong>, Alastair<br />
Christie nevertheless has strong ties to the<br />
island. His great grandfather was a dairy<br />
farmer who moved here in 1918, the farm<br />
remaining in the family ever since.<br />
When Alastair’s parents inherited the farm in<br />
1983 they began growing lavender<br />
commercially. Fortuitously, Alastair worked<br />
as a chemist specialising in fragrances in<br />
England, so he was well equipped to take<br />
over the family business when his parents<br />
retired in 2002.<br />
He has no regrets about the change of<br />
lifestyle. ‘I’m very lucky to be doing this, I<br />
really am. I can wear shorts from May to<br />
September,’ he jokes. But he takes the<br />
business, the second largest lavender farm in<br />
the British Isles, very seriously – especially<br />
his commitment to ‘meet and greet’ the<br />
farm’s thousands of visitors each year.<br />
As well as lavender, Alastair grows rosemary,<br />
eucalyptus and bay laurel, but he sees the<br />
heart of the island, Sadie comes from a long<br />
line of ancestors <strong>with</strong> agricultural roots in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. Her father was born on the farm too,<br />
and both her grandfather and greatgrandfather<br />
were horse dealers in the island,<br />
though their travels often took them to<br />
America. Sadie also has strong links <strong>with</strong><br />
America, not least through her love of country<br />
music, which resulted in her being made an<br />
honorary citizen of Tennessee in 1974.<br />
But her love of <strong>Jersey</strong> is what lights up her<br />
already exuberant personality when talking<br />
about the island and her favourite places. ‘I<br />
love it here. The countryside is unbeatable<br />
and the north coast is so wild and open.’ Her<br />
favourite spot, though, is St Catherine’s Bay<br />
on the east coast where she’s often found<br />
walking. Sadie’s a big fan of <strong>Jersey</strong> food too.<br />
She may be partisan, but few would argue<br />
<strong>with</strong> her when she says that the island has<br />
‘some of the best restaurants in the world’.<br />
business of looking after his visitors as being<br />
every bit as important as cultivating these<br />
popular herbs.<br />
Today the farm grows six different types of<br />
lavender, each flowering at a different time,<br />
which extends the scented ‘lavender<br />
window’ of the farm from mid-June to mid-<br />
August. Inevitably, some hybrids arise from<br />
keeping such a variety. One, exclusive to the<br />
farm and named Elizabeth prior to its launch<br />
at the 2007 Chelsea Flower Show, is<br />
described as being ‘quite spectacular and<br />
excellent for drying.’<br />
Although the flowering and harvesting season<br />
is quite short, <strong>Jersey</strong> Lavender is a year-round<br />
business <strong>with</strong> 50,000 plants to tend, their<br />
flowers to distil into essential oil, and a variety<br />
of lavender-based products to make for the<br />
farm shop. The café also uses lavender in<br />
some of its home-made treats. Fancy an<br />
iconic summer dish? Then Alastair’s lavender<br />
and strawberry gateau is <strong>Jersey</strong>’s answer to<br />
the West Country’s strawberries and cream.
so Accommodating<br />
MARY ANNE AT HOME IN EULAH COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL<br />
What’s the accommodation<br />
scene like in <strong>Jersey</strong>? Mary<br />
Anne Evans, Chairman of the<br />
British Guild of Travel Writers,<br />
knows a thing or two about<br />
hotels so we asked her to<br />
take a look.<br />
Ihadn’t been to <strong>Jersey</strong> before, so my<br />
expectations of the island, like many<br />
first-time visitors, were of the picturepostcard<br />
kind. Glorious sandy beaches and<br />
small, winding lanes; mellow stone manor<br />
houses and an intriguing history. So far, so<br />
good – <strong>Jersey</strong> has all of these. But what<br />
about accommodation? To be honest, I had<br />
envisaged a not-too-inspiring choice that<br />
ranged between faded country house hotel<br />
grandeur and the dowdy gentility of a<br />
seafront guest house. How wrong I was.<br />
While the world and I have been looking<br />
elsewhere, <strong>Jersey</strong> has upped the ante.<br />
What I discovered were sophisticated<br />
hotels, elegant guest houses and selfcatering<br />
<strong>with</strong> a distinctly individual – not to<br />
say unique – slant.<br />
I was in <strong>Jersey</strong> to test-run three very<br />
different places, chosen to give a broadly<br />
representative idea of how things have<br />
changed and what’s on offer here. I began,<br />
appropriately enough, beside the sea at<br />
The Atlantic Hotel. In name, location,<br />
architecture and atmosphere this is a hotel<br />
shaped by maritime influences. Built in<br />
grand 1930s ‘seaside marine’ style, it has<br />
recently been enlarged and remodelled,<br />
mixing classical and contemporary design.<br />
Colours are pale and cool, predominantly<br />
beige and blue, reflecting The Atlantic’s<br />
dramatic ocean setting. Acres of windows<br />
and glass doors flood the ground floor <strong>with</strong><br />
light, making the most of the view<br />
overlooking St Ouen’s Bay, the vast stretch of<br />
surf and sand that fills <strong>Jersey</strong>’s west coast.<br />
Much of the furniture throughout the hotel<br />
is bespoke, designed and crafted locally, and<br />
there are plants and flowers everywhere.<br />
There’s a pretty, wood-panelled sitting<br />
room-cum-library <strong>with</strong> shelves full of books<br />
and games like Trivial Pursuit and chess for a<br />
rainy afternoon. The bar has a clubby feel –<br />
just the place for a good scotch.<br />
As the Channel Islands’ only member of the<br />
prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the<br />
World, The Atlantic takes its restaurant just<br />
as seriously. Chef Mark Jordan knows his<br />
local onions – or <strong>Jersey</strong> Royals in this case<br />
– and features locally caught sea bass,<br />
lobster and crab, island reared beef and<br />
lamb and those famous potatoes on his<br />
menus. He knows what he’s doing and has a<br />
Michelin star to prove it.<br />
This, you feel, is a hotel that has the<br />
balance of professionalism and warmth just<br />
right, due in no small measure to the fact<br />
that it has always been in private<br />
ownership.<br />
Next stop was Eulah Country House in St<br />
Helier. As I arrived, owner Frank Callaghan<br />
was looking up at a side gable. ‘It’s just like<br />
the Forth Bridge,’ he said, as he mentally<br />
totted what was needed to keep this<br />
generously proportioned, red-brick house<br />
in pristine shape. Eulah, built around 1906,<br />
was a damaged Edwardian gem when Frank<br />
bought it. Old photographs show rooms full<br />
of chased copper, splendid fireplaces and<br />
flowery tiles. But when Frank arrived on the<br />
scene in 1978, most of the original fittings<br />
had been ripped out or painted over and it<br />
took years of research, time and money to<br />
restore the old lady to her former<br />
flamboyant self.<br />
Five years ago he decided to turn Eulah<br />
House into an upmarket boutique hotel<br />
offering bed and breakfast in luxurious<br />
surroundings. In common <strong>with</strong> many other<br />
accommodation providers in <strong>Jersey</strong>, he<br />
realised that times had moved on and that<br />
there was a new generation of travellers<br />
out there <strong>with</strong> high expectations.<br />
54 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 55<br />
THE ATLANTIC HOTEL
so<br />
Accommodating<br />
Eulah is warm, welcoming and restful – it’s<br />
the kind of place you slip into effortlessly.<br />
Everything is so well chosen and in tune<br />
<strong>with</strong> the character of the fine old building.<br />
Plush furnishings, bold colour schemes in<br />
dark reds, rich blues and striking greens<br />
predominate. Armchairs and sofas are made<br />
to sink into. Large beds are a mix of styles;<br />
one is a half-tester, another has a<br />
headboard in Versailles-style gilt.<br />
Eulah’s vast bathrooms have received the<br />
same bespoke touch. I could stand in my<br />
shower and look out to sea. But if you want<br />
something really different, ask for the fourposter<br />
bath. Eulah offers the kind of<br />
opulent living that’s a world away from<br />
those old notions of B&B.<br />
My last destination was a self-catering<br />
beach house. But being <strong>Jersey</strong> this wasn’t<br />
just any old beach house. In fact, the<br />
delightful Barge Aground looks exactly like<br />
its name: the holiday bungalow is shaped like<br />
a grounded boat, complete <strong>with</strong> portholes<br />
and flagpole. The only survivor of a<br />
collection of beach houses built in the<br />
1930s along St Ouen’s Bay, it’s now<br />
marooned in splendid isolation on the shore,<br />
causing confusion and amusement to<br />
passing travellers. It’s quirky and very <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
The front door opens into a spacious living<br />
room running the width of the building <strong>with</strong><br />
light streaming in through portholes on<br />
both sides. Go to the stern end and you’ll<br />
find two bedrooms <strong>with</strong> bunk beds. For the<br />
kitchen and bathroom you’ll need to head<br />
for the prow. The single-storey building has<br />
been beautifully restored in pre-war style<br />
<strong>with</strong> wooden parquet floors and pretty<br />
chintz furnishings. Outside, steps lead<br />
down to the sea wall and beach. You fall<br />
asleep lulled by the sounds of the waves<br />
and wake up to the call of seagulls, so it’s<br />
almost like being on a bona fide boat. It’s a<br />
perfect place for families.<br />
Barge Aground is one of a collection of odd<br />
and historic buildings given a new lease of<br />
life by the <strong>Jersey</strong> Heritage Trust. Redundant<br />
coastal fortifications have been converted<br />
into self-catering accommodation <strong>with</strong> a<br />
difference – and <strong>with</strong> uniformly stunning sea<br />
views. The choice is wonderfully eccentric.<br />
There’s the former officers’ quarters in Grève<br />
de Lecq Barracks, for example, or an<br />
apartment in Elizabeth Castle, St Helier, that<br />
gets cut off at high tide. If you really want to<br />
play king of the castle book yourself into one<br />
of the historic forts – La Crête, Leicester or<br />
L’Etacquerel – carved into the cliffs on<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s rugged, rocky north coast. Built in<br />
the 19th century, they now offer 21stcentury<br />
comforts alongside the many hotels<br />
in <strong>Jersey</strong> that have benefited from huge<br />
investment in recent years.<br />
The Atlantic Hotel, St Brelade,<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 8HE<br />
Tel 01534 744101<br />
www.theatlantichotel.com<br />
Eulah Country House, Mont Cochon,<br />
St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 3JA<br />
Tel 01534 626626<br />
www.eulah.co.uk<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Heritage Trust<br />
Booking Office 01534 633304<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.org.<br />
The Royal Yacht<br />
The Royal Yacht together <strong>with</strong> its four<br />
restaurants, three bars and beautiful spa is<br />
situated on the waterfront of St Helier, the<br />
trendy, cosmopolitan heart of <strong>Jersey</strong>,<br />
<strong>with</strong>in easy reach of the bustling shops and<br />
golden beaches, and topped off <strong>with</strong><br />
spectacular views. Modern and elegant,<br />
The Royal Yacht is a place to be seen,<br />
pampered and, most importantly, to have<br />
a good time. Only recently reopened (July<br />
2007) having reinvented itself <strong>with</strong> a<br />
£35million extension and refurbishment,<br />
this is the ideal place for either a short<br />
break or memorable holiday. The Royal<br />
Yacht is a perfect place to experience all<br />
the gems that <strong>Jersey</strong> has to offer!<br />
Food and Drink<br />
The Royal Yacht has a diverse selection of<br />
places to indulge, <strong>with</strong> plenty of fine dining<br />
and delectable drinks. At Restaurant Sirocco<br />
you will discover sophisticated cuisine <strong>with</strong><br />
glittering views of the vibrant waterfront.<br />
THE ATLANTIC HOTEL EULAH COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL BARGE AGROUND OUTSIDE (TOP) AND INSIDE (ABOVE)<br />
Café Zephyr has the distinctive feel of a<br />
fashionable, fun place to eat, serving a<br />
fresh eclectic menu <strong>with</strong> a large alfresco<br />
area. For a more casual experience, The<br />
Grill offers unreservedly good, simple food<br />
and The Drift is a cool, relaxed yet vibrant<br />
new bar where you can grab some fresh<br />
seafood or watch a band. And for those<br />
who really like a treat, the P.O.S.H Bar is an<br />
intimate champagne bar <strong>with</strong> an alfresco<br />
area serving a luxurious selection<br />
of drinks and nibbles.<br />
The Spa<br />
Our luxurious Spa Sirène is the<br />
embodiment of relaxation. The feeling of<br />
utter bliss will stay <strong>with</strong> you from the<br />
moment you arrive and wrap yourself in<br />
our sumptuous robes and last until your<br />
head hits the pillow that evening. The spa is<br />
equipped to cater for any needs <strong>with</strong> a full<br />
working gym, experience showers and a<br />
large indoor swimming pool. A place to<br />
work out or be pampered, Spa Sirène uses<br />
exclusive Phtyomer products.<br />
Saints Alive<br />
Recent massive investment means that<br />
St Helier now has the best quality range of<br />
hotel accommodation measured by size of<br />
population in the whole of the UK. The<br />
expansion began in 2005 <strong>with</strong> the<br />
opening of the contemporary boutique<br />
hotel, The Club Hotel & Spa<br />
(www.theclub<strong>jersey</strong>.com). Its success,<br />
particularly in winning its first Michelin<br />
star, has attracted a dynamic, new clientele.<br />
The latest brand-new hotel to open is the<br />
£50-million Radisson SAS Waterfront<br />
Hotel (www.<strong>jersey</strong>.radissonsas.com). The<br />
hotel is right on the marina, but close to<br />
the town centre and burgeoning financial<br />
district. A recent £14-million investment<br />
in The Grand <strong>Jersey</strong> (www.grand<strong>jersey</strong>.com)<br />
has completely transformed this longestablished<br />
landmark. The hotel’s<br />
The Royal Yacht<br />
Weighbridge<br />
St Helier<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 3NF<br />
Tel 01534 720511<br />
Fax 01534 767729<br />
email: reception@theroyalyacht.com<br />
www.theroyalyacht.com<br />
fizzy new Champagne Lounge is a huge<br />
success, and bedrooms have gone from<br />
staid to stunning.<br />
The Royal Yacht Hotel<br />
(www.theroyalyacht.com) is one of<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s institutions. A £35-million<br />
investment has given it a totally new<br />
look, increased guest rooms to 110<br />
(most <strong>with</strong> a balcony or terrace), and<br />
added bars, restaurants and conference<br />
facilities. Nearby, the 158-year-old<br />
Pomme d’Or Hotel<br />
(www.seymourhotels.com) has new,<br />
larger bedrooms and upgraded business<br />
facilities following a £5-million<br />
refurbishment. Just outside the town<br />
centre, the elegant Hotel de France has<br />
recently added a top-of-the-range<br />
Ayush (Ayurvedic) Wellness Spa, four<br />
new swimming pools, sauna, steam<br />
room and gym (www.defrance.co.uk).<br />
56 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 57
The Panorama<br />
La Rue du Croquet, St. Aubin, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 8BZ<br />
Tel 01534 742 429 • Fax 01534 745 940<br />
email: info@panorama<strong>jersey</strong>.com • www.panorama<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
AA<br />
Highly commended<br />
Guest accommodation<br />
Non-smoking adults only.<br />
Villa D'Oro<br />
Seacroft Guest House<br />
The morning sunshine, a high tide, a<br />
slight breeze, breakfast cooked to order<br />
after sleeping on pocket sprung beds.<br />
It doesn’t come much better than this.<br />
La Grand Route de St Laurent, St Lawrence, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE3 1NJ<br />
Tel 01534 862262<br />
email: stay@villadoro<strong>jersey</strong>.com • www.villadoro<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Owner-operated and centrally located,<br />
this is a top spot as a base for your visit.<br />
Cycling, walking, beach activities, golf,<br />
history, restaurants galore are all nearby.<br />
Comfortable 3-star JQA en-suite<br />
bedrooms. B&B or room-only rate.<br />
Travel easily arranged.<br />
38 Green Street, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 4UG<br />
Tel 01534 732 732 • email: seacroft38@msn.com<br />
Situated 10 minutes from town<br />
centre, 2 minutes from seafront.<br />
Small friendly and non-smoking.<br />
Twin/double from £21 per person<br />
per night, family room £63 per night.<br />
Inclusive of full English breakfast.<br />
Stafford Hotel<br />
Kensington Place, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 3PA<br />
Tel 01534 724953<br />
email: staffordhotel@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk • www.staffordhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk<br />
Macole’s Self-Catering Holidays<br />
First Floor, 14PR La Motte Street, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 4SY<br />
Brochures: 01534 488162 • Reservations: 01534 488172<br />
email: pure<strong>jersey</strong>@macoles.com • www.macoles.com/pr<br />
Self-catering is the ‘freestyle’ way to<br />
holiday. No restrictive hotel meals plus<br />
hundreds of great restaurants and<br />
activities to experience. Macole’s offer<br />
over 90% of the island’s cottages and<br />
apartments including exclusive home style<br />
rentals. Choose stunning beachside, rural<br />
country or town centre convenience.<br />
Bay View Guest House AA ★★★★<br />
12 Havre des Pas, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 4UQ<br />
Tel/Fax 01534 720950<br />
email: Bayview.guesthouse@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk • www.bayview<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk<br />
Modern Hotels<br />
The Stafford Hotel is Licensed for 149 guests.<br />
It is conveniently situated right in the heart of<br />
St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong>’s main shopping centre and<br />
capital. The Hotel is <strong>with</strong>in walking distance of<br />
the beautiful beach of St Aubins, and the main<br />
sea port and bus station. Our life time of<br />
personal experience is our best guarantee,<br />
<strong>with</strong> over 50% of the hotel guests returning<br />
year after year. Ensuring you of our individual<br />
service and attention delivered in an<br />
atmosphere of warmth and friendship.<br />
Visit Macole’s website or call for a brochure<br />
for more information. Let your free spirit out!<br />
Friendly family run establishment,<br />
opposite Havre Des Pas beach, Lido and<br />
Promenade. Great local restaurants, and<br />
10 minute walk into St Helier.<br />
Rooms en-suite, individually styled and<br />
furnished <strong>with</strong> full facilities including<br />
fridge and microwave. Bridal mini suite<br />
available. Bar/Lounge/Free WiFi.<br />
Roseville, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE1 4HE<br />
Tel 01534 735511 • Fax 01534 730639<br />
email: jo.tuohy@themoderngroup.com • www.modernhotels.com<br />
Modern Hotels have two great<br />
★★★ hotels, Mayfair Hotel<br />
and Hotel Metropole. We<br />
offer competitive rates on<br />
accommodation and package<br />
holidays, <strong>with</strong> excellent air and sea<br />
fares. Modern Holidays guarantees<br />
the perfect holiday and are well<br />
located for the town and beach.<br />
Publications for 2008<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism offers a selection of publications to help you plan your holiday and to enhance your experience during your visit. To receive any<br />
of the items below, remove this page from your brochure, complete your details <strong>with</strong> any necessary payment and return it to <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism.<br />
Name: I wish to pay by:<br />
Address: Visa: Carte Bleu: Maestro: Mastercard: Eurocards:<br />
Postcode: Sub Total:<br />
Telephone: Handling Charge: €4.00<br />
Total Amount:<br />
Credit Card No: Expiry Date: Security Code No: (See reverse of card)<br />
Card Holder’s Name: Start Date: Card Holder’s Signature:<br />
Issue No.:<br />
ITEM<br />
Ordnance Survey Map<br />
Landscape Guide<br />
This is <strong>Jersey</strong> DVD<br />
Official <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Guide Maps<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Jaunts<br />
2008 Calendar<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Rambles<br />
A Brief History<br />
of <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Cycles<br />
DESCRIPTION<br />
1:25,000 Official<br />
Leisure Map<br />
Walks, car tours and<br />
sites of interest<br />
A pictorial view<br />
of <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
Approx 40 mins.<br />
Large town plan, full<br />
street index, colour maps.<br />
33 circular walks <strong>with</strong><br />
refreshments.<br />
12 images including<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>’s famous cows,<br />
beaches, castles and<br />
Battle of Flowers.<br />
30 island walks for<br />
you to enjoy.<br />
Highlights of the island’s<br />
eventful history.<br />
12 suggested island<br />
cycle tours.<br />
PRICES<br />
Please allow 10 days from receipt of payment for delivery. Orders subject to availability. All information correct at time of print – November 2007.<br />
£6<br />
£6.99<br />
£9.99<br />
£4.50<br />
£12.99/<br />
£14.99<br />
£5.95<br />
£5.95<br />
£5.00<br />
£5.95<br />
LANGUAGES<br />
English<br />
English/German<br />
English/French<br />
English<br />
Video – English<br />
DVD – English/French<br />
English<br />
English/German<br />
English<br />
English<br />
QUANTITY TOTAL COST<br />
Festival programmes, monthly event guides and other useful information are also available before you arrive. Please return the form to <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Tourism to receive this free information.<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> Walking Festival 17th - 24th May 2008<br />
FREE<br />
For more details please telephone our Visitor Services Centre on 01534<br />
448877 or visit our website www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com to download the information. Autumn Walking Festival 13th – 20th Sept 2008<br />
FREE<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism Visitor Services Centre opening hours:<br />
Wedding Guide<br />
FREE<br />
April – September: Monday – Saturday 08:30 – 17:30hrs.<br />
Monthly 'What's On' Guide April to December.<br />
(Please specify month(s) req'd)<br />
FREE<br />
Sunday 08:30 – 14:15hrs.<br />
Island Tourist Map including Cycle Routes<br />
FREE<br />
October – March: Monday - Friday<br />
Saturday<br />
08:30 – 17:30hrs.<br />
08:45 – 13:00hrs<br />
Walking Guide (English, French and German)<br />
Sub Total<br />
FREE<br />
These hours are subject to change.<br />
Complete the order form and send the whole page and your payment to:<br />
Handling Charge<br />
£2.50<br />
€4,00<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism, Liberation Place, St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE1 1BB.<br />
All despatches are subject to a €4.00 handling charge.<br />
Total Cost
Accommodation Graded<br />
Hotel Registration and Grading<br />
All accommodation in <strong>Jersey</strong> must be registered but grading is<br />
optional. Guest accommodation in <strong>Jersey</strong> is quality assessed by<br />
either the AA or Visit Britain/<strong>Jersey</strong> Quality Assured. Please be<br />
aware that ratings may change throughout the year.<br />
All national grading bodies (the AA, Visit Britain/JQA) now assess<br />
hotels, guest accommodation and self-catering to the same criteria<br />
and award one to five stars or one to five pennants for campsites.<br />
The rating reflects the overall quality of the experience.<br />
Ratings made easy<br />
★ Simple, practical, no frills<br />
★★ Well presented and well run<br />
★★★ Good level of quality and comfort<br />
★★★★ Excellent standard throughout<br />
★★★★★ Exceptional <strong>with</strong> a degree of luxury<br />
Outstanding examples in each star category are highlighted in red.<br />
For AA ratings, visit www.theAA.com<br />
or telephone: 01256 844455<br />
For JQA ratings, visit www.qualityintourism.com<br />
or telephone: 01534 448877<br />
Key to Location Symbols<br />
F Coastal location G Countryside location R Town location<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>Link<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>Link is the official accommodation booking service of <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Tourism. It features the majority of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s hotels, guest houses and<br />
self-catering accommodation and offers many great deals and<br />
special offers. <strong>Jersey</strong>Link is a free service <strong>with</strong> no booking fees.<br />
The <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism Visitor Services Centre offers you the ability to<br />
conduct island-wide searches for accommodation. Our team of<br />
reservation officers are available to advise you on the full range of<br />
accommodation available and you can complete your booking online<br />
at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com or by telephone on 01534 448888.<br />
60 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Hotels Guest<br />
Accommodation<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
Location<br />
★★★★<br />
Atlantic, St Brelade 744101 theatlantichotel.com F 50<br />
Club & Spa, St Helier 876500 theclub<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 46<br />
De France, St Saviour 614100 defrance.co.uk R 290<br />
Grand, St Helier 288454 grand<strong>jersey</strong>.com R,F 118<br />
Greenhills, St Peter 481042 greenhillshotel.com G 31<br />
Longueville Manor, St Saviour 725501 longuevillemanor.com G 29<br />
La Place, St Brelade 744261 hotellaplace<strong>jersey</strong>.com G 42<br />
L’Horizon, St Brelade 743101 handpicked.co.uk F 106<br />
Pomme D’Or, St Helier 751357 pommedorhotel.com R,F 143<br />
Royal Yacht, St Helier 720511 royalyacht.com R,F 110<br />
St Brelade’s Bay, St Brelade 746141 stbreladesbayhotel.com F 80<br />
Somerville, St Aubin 741226 dolanhotels.com F 56<br />
★★★<br />
Chateau La Chaire, St Martin 863354 chateau-la-chaire.co.uk F 14<br />
Ambassadeur, St Clement 724455 F 89<br />
Apollo, St Helier, JE2 4GJ 725441 huggler.com R 85<br />
Beausite, Grouville 857577 southernhotels.com F 76<br />
Cristina, St Lawrence 758024 dolanhotels.com F 63<br />
Golden Sands, St Brelade 741241 dolanhotels.com F 62<br />
Hampshire, St Helier 724115 hampshirehotel.co.uk R 42<br />
La Tour, St Aubin 743770 hotellatour.com F 26<br />
Mayfair, St Helier 735551 modernhotels.com R 233<br />
Merton, St Saviour 754313 mertonhotel.com R 291<br />
Metropole, St Helier 735511 modernhotels.com R<br />
Monterey, St Helier 873006 morvanhotels.com R 73<br />
Moorings, St Martin 853633 themooringshotel.com F 15<br />
Old Court House, Grouville 854444 ochhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 58<br />
Ommaroo, St Helier 723493 seabird.co.je R,F 84<br />
Pontac House, St Clement 857771 pontachouse.com F 27<br />
Queen’s, St Helier 722239 queenshotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 36<br />
Revere, St Helier 611111 revere.co.uk R 57<br />
Royal, St Helier 873006 morvanhotels.com R 87<br />
Samares Coast, St Clement 873006 morvanhotels.com F 52<br />
Savoy, St Helier 727521 hotelsavoy<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 59<br />
Shakespeare, St Clement 851915 seabird.co.je F 32<br />
Uplands, St Helier 873006 morvanhotels.com G 43<br />
Water’s Edge, Trinity 862777 watersedgehotel.com F 50<br />
Windmills, St Brelade 744201 windmillshotel.com F 74<br />
★★<br />
Alhambra, St Helier 732128 alhambrahotel.net R,F 18<br />
Beachcombers, Grouville 875236 beachcombershotel.co.uk F 45<br />
Beau Rivage, St Brelade 745983 <strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hotels/beau F 27<br />
Cheval Roc, St John 862865 chevalrochotel<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk G 42<br />
De Normandie. St Saviour 721347 channelhotels.com F 105<br />
Dolphin, St Martin 853370 dolphinhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 16<br />
Fort D’Auvergne, St Helier 873006 morvanhotels.com R 65<br />
Highlands, St Brelade 744288 highlandshotel.com F 56<br />
Les Charrieres, St Peter 481480 lescharriereshotel.co.uk G 41<br />
Millbrook House, St Helier 733036 millbrookhousehotel.com F 24<br />
Miramar, St Brelade 743831 miramar<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 38<br />
Monaco, St Helier 724663 monacohotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 36<br />
Mountview, St Helier 887666 channelhotels.com R 32<br />
Norfolk Lodge, St Helier 873006 morvanhotels.com R 101<br />
Oaklands Lodge, Trinity 861735 members.aol.com/oaklandstrinity G 10<br />
Old Bank House, Grouville 854285 oldbankhousehotel@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk 20<br />
Old Court House Inn, St Aubin 746433 oldcourthouse<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 9<br />
Runnymede Court, St Helier 720044 F 57<br />
Sandranne, St Helier 721218 hotel.sandranne@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk R 31<br />
Sarum, St Helier 758163 <strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hotels/sarum R 52<br />
Stafford, St Helier 724953 staffordhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk R 79<br />
Talana, St Saviour 730317 talana@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk G 41<br />
Washington, St Helier 737981 washingtonhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk R 36<br />
Westhill, St Helier 723260 westhillhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com G 90<br />
West View, St Mary 481643 westviewhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com G 41<br />
★★★★★<br />
Eulah Country House, St Helier 626626 eulah.co.uk G 9<br />
La Haule Manor, St Brelade 741426 lahaulemanor.com F 10<br />
Awaiting Grading<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Lavender Villa, Grouville 854937 lavendervilla.co.uk F 21<br />
Radisson SAS, St Helier 671100 <strong>jersey</strong>.radissonsas.com R,F 195<br />
No. Rooms<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
★★★★★<br />
Panorama, St Aubin 742429 panorama<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 14<br />
★★★★<br />
Bay View, St Helier 720590 bayview<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk R,F 12<br />
Sabots D’Or, St Aubin 743732 sabotsdor.com F 12<br />
Undercliff, Trinity 863058 undercliff<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 13<br />
★★★<br />
Au Caprice, St Aubin 722083 aucaprice<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 12<br />
Bon Viveur, St Aubin 741049 bonviveur<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 19<br />
De L’Etang, St Helier 721996 <strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hotels/deletang F 13<br />
Fairholme, St Helier 732194 <strong>jersey</strong>island.com/sthelier/fairholme/index.html F 15<br />
Havelock, St Helier 730663 havelockguesthouse.com F 20<br />
Lorraine, St Helier 735164 lorraineghouse@hotmail.com R 10<br />
Lyndhurst, St Brelade 720317 lyndhurstguesthouse.com F 11<br />
Maison Chaussey, St Helier 723836 Maisonchaussey@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk F 8<br />
Ocean Walk, St Brelade 742163 oceanwalk.co.je F 16<br />
Olanda, St Aubin 742573 <strong>jersey</strong>island.com/staubins/olanda F 10<br />
Peterborough House, St Aubin 741568 <strong>jersey</strong>island.com/staubin/peterborough F 14<br />
Porthole Cottage, St Aubin 745007 porthole-cottage.com F 11<br />
Seawold, St Peter 720807 seawoldguesthouse.co.uk F 21<br />
St Magloire, St Aubin 741302 <strong>jersey</strong>island.com/staubin/stmagloire F 12<br />
Surrey Lodge, St Helier 734834 <strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hotels/surreylodge R 7<br />
Villa D’Oro, St Lawrence 862262 villadoro<strong>jersey</strong>.com G 12<br />
★★ Small Hotel<br />
Wheatlands, St Peter 888877 wheatlands<strong>jersey</strong>.com G 18<br />
★★<br />
Alister, St Helier 720887 alister@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk R 11<br />
Avoca Villa, St Helier 731171 <strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hotels/avoca/index.html R 7<br />
Bromley, St Helier 725045 <strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hotels/bromley R 9<br />
Sylvania, St Lawrence 725347 sylvaniaguesthouse.com F 11<br />
Self-Catering<br />
★★★★★<br />
La Haule Manor, St Brelade 741426 lahaulemanor.com F 2 2/3<br />
★★★★<br />
La Planque Farm<br />
Country Cottages, Trinity 860773 laplanquefarm.com G 4 2/6/7<br />
Saco Merlin House, St Helier 0845 1220405 sacoapartments.co.uk R 24 2/4/6<br />
Samares Manor, St Clement 870551 samaresmanor.com G 6 3/4/5/6/8<br />
Undercliff, Trinity 863058 undercliff<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 1 2<br />
★★★<br />
Beausite Hotel, Grouville 857577 southernhotels.com F 6 2/3/4<br />
De Normandie, St Saviour 732226 channelhotels.com F 5 2/3/5<br />
Old Forge, St Clement 854176 F 1 6<br />
Queen’s, St Helier 722239 queenshotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 2 4<br />
Samares Coast Hotel 873006 morvanhotels.com F 6 3/4/5/6/8<br />
Uplands Hotel, St Helier 873006 morvanhotels.com F 12 2/5<br />
Water’s Edge Hotel, Trinity 862777 watersedgehotel.co.je F 1 4<br />
Windmills Hotel, St Brelade 744201 windmillshotel.com F 2 2/4<br />
★★<br />
Millbrook House, St Helier 733036 millbrookhousehotel.com F 3 2<br />
Panama, St Helier 481643 panama<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 23 1/2/3/4/6<br />
West View Hotel, St Mary 481643 westviewhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com G 1 2<br />
Camp Sites<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
Location<br />
No. Units<br />
Location<br />
★<br />
Beuvelande Camp Site, St Martin 853575 <strong>jersey</strong>camping.com G 400<br />
Bleu Soleil Camping, St Ouen 481007 bleusoleilcamping.com G 150<br />
Rozel Camping Park, St Martin 855200 rozelcamping.co.uk G 200<br />
Location<br />
No. Rooms<br />
No. Persons<br />
Per Unit<br />
No. Persons<br />
Registered<br />
Hotels<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
Location<br />
Almorah, St Helier 721648 almorahhotel.com R 14<br />
Biarritz, St Brelade 742239 biarritzhotel.co.uk F 51<br />
Carlton, St Helier 730670 carltonhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com R,F 48<br />
Maison Gorey, Grouville 857775 maisongorey.com F 26<br />
Marina, St Helier 730670 marinahotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 36<br />
Mornington, St Helier 724452 morningtonhotel.co.uk R 31<br />
Norfolk, St Helier 632000 norfolkhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 100<br />
Portelet, St Brelade 741204 portelethotel.com F 86<br />
Seascale, St Martin 854395 seascalehote.com F 9<br />
Guest Accommodation<br />
Caverna, St Helier 873366 caverna<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 8<br />
Harbour View, St Aubin 741585 harbourview<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 12<br />
Haven, St Helier 721619 havenguesthouse.com R 10<br />
Huntley Lodge, St Helier 870145 peteralanmackay@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk R 5<br />
Kensington, St Helier 732827 Kensington@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk R 12<br />
La Barca, St Aubin 744275 F 4<br />
La Bonne Vie, St Helier 735955 labonnevie-guesthouse-<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 10<br />
Prince of Wales, St Ouen 482085 princeofwales.je F 13<br />
Richelieu Lodge, St Saviour 727216 jillpace@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk G 10<br />
Rocqueberg View, St Clements 852642 rocquebergview.co.uk F 9<br />
Seacroft, St Helier 732732 seacroft38@msn.com R 9<br />
St Francis, St Helier, JE2 4NQ 732112 R 5<br />
Thalatta, St Helier 730156 thalattaguesthouse.com R 15<br />
Victoria House, St Helier, JE2 3XB 735401 victoriaguesthouse@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk R 6<br />
Villa Isis, St Helier 632000 norfolkhotel<strong>jersey</strong>.com R 21<br />
Youth Hostel<br />
Haut de la Garenne, St Martin 840100 yha.org.uk G 21<br />
Self-Catering<br />
Location<br />
No. Rooms<br />
Aigretmont Farm, St Saviour 854865 G 2 3/7<br />
Amani, St Brelade 608062 selfcatering<strong>jersey</strong>.com F 9 3/4/7<br />
Biarritz, St Brelade 742239 biarritzhotel.co.uk F 2 2/4<br />
Boscobel Country Apartments,<br />
St Peter 490100 boscobel.co.uk G 7 3/4<br />
Brabant, Trinity 725259 freedomholidays.com G 1 7<br />
Cherry Tree Farm, St Helier 07700700576 buchanan_builders@hotmail.com G 2 6<br />
Cheval Roc, St John 862865 chevalrochotel<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk G 4 3/5<br />
Corbiere Phare, St Brelade 746127 corbierephare@<strong>jersey</strong>mail.co.uk F 9 2/3<br />
Discovery Bay, St Ouen 484222 discovery-bay-<strong>jersey</strong>-ci.com F 11 2/3/4<br />
Grantez Farm, St Ouen 481891 eileenpirouet@hotmail.com G 6 4<br />
La Rocco, St Brelade 743378 laroccoapartments.com F 22 2/4/5/6/8<br />
Les Roches, St Ouen 487856 lesroches.co.uk G 2 2/6<br />
Merryvale Farm, St Ouen 481743 G 2 7<br />
Officers Quarters,<br />
Greve de Lecq Barracks, St Mary 725259 freedomholidays.com F 1 6<br />
St Peter’s Country Apartments,<br />
St Peter 495495 <strong>jersey</strong>selfcatering.com G 41 2/3/4/6<br />
Camp Sites<br />
Telephone<br />
Prefix (01534):<br />
Website<br />
Prefix www.<br />
Rose Farm, St Brelade 741231 <strong>jersey</strong>camping.com G 500<br />
Check <strong>Jersey</strong>Link<br />
online for availability<br />
and booking at<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Location<br />
No. Units<br />
No. Persons<br />
Per Unit<br />
No. Persons<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 61
General Information For more specific information log on to www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Bringing your Own Car<br />
Visitors must have an insurance certificate or an<br />
International Green Card, the vehicle registration<br />
document, a valid driving licence or International Driving<br />
Permit (UK International Driving Permits are not valid).<br />
Photocopies are not acceptable. A nationality plate must<br />
be displayed on the back of your vehicle.<br />
Buses<br />
Connex – It is easy to access all parts of the island using<br />
the local bus service, whose routes radiate from<br />
Libertation Station, St Helier. To obtain a copy of their<br />
current bus timetable, please send a cheque or postal<br />
order for 85p (which includes postage) made payable to<br />
Connex Transport <strong>Jersey</strong> Ltd to the following address:<br />
Connex Transport <strong>Jersey</strong> Ltd, Bus Depot, La Collette,<br />
St Helier, <strong>Jersey</strong> JE2 3NX. 01534 877772.<br />
Island Explorer operate a summer service between<br />
major attractions and beaches. Please contact Connex<br />
for further details.<br />
Car Hire<br />
Avis Rent-A-Car<br />
01534 519100/0800 735 1110<br />
www.avis<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk<br />
Europcar<br />
01534 747770/0800 735 0735<br />
www.europcar<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Falles Car Hire<br />
01534 519100/0800 735 1110<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/falles<br />
Hertz Rent-A-Car<br />
01534 636666/0800 735 1014<br />
www.hertzci.com<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Classic Car Hire<br />
01534 746273<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>classiccarhire.com<br />
Sovereign Hire Cars<br />
01534 608062<br />
www.carhire-<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Viceroy Hire Cars<br />
01534 738698<br />
Zebra Car Hire<br />
01534 736556<br />
www.zebrahire.com<br />
Motorbike/Scooter Hire<br />
Extreme Imports<br />
01534 888405<br />
www.extreme-imports.biz/hire.asp<br />
Motorama (<strong>Jersey</strong>) Ltd<br />
07700 790790<br />
www.motorama-<strong>jersey</strong>.co.uk/hire<br />
Sovereign Hire Cars<br />
01534 608062<br />
www.carhire-<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Caravans/Motorhomes<br />
Caravans/motorhomes can only be accommodated on<br />
the following sites for a maximum of one month during<br />
the summer season. Beuvelande 01534 853575,<br />
Rose Farm 01534 741231 and Rozel Camp Site<br />
01534 855200. For further information and Licensing<br />
Applications please contact the campsites above or<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism – 01534 448877<br />
Currency<br />
All major debit and credit cards are widely accepted.<br />
Sterling is the currency of the island. Chip & Pin is<br />
widely used in the island. Euros are accepted in a limited<br />
number of outlets. There is no counter service for<br />
Building Societies in <strong>Jersey</strong> however there are Link Card<br />
machines in St Helier, St Saviour, St Peter and Red<br />
62 pure<strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Houses. Please check <strong>with</strong> your own society regarding<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> cash transactions before you leave, as these<br />
differ from the UK. Pensions from the UK will only be<br />
payable if the pension book indicates Group 13<br />
membership.<br />
Customs Allowances<br />
As <strong>Jersey</strong> is not part of the EU you can still purchase<br />
your duty-free items en route to and from the island.<br />
For further information please refer to www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
Electricity<br />
240 volts AC. UK sockets only.<br />
Employment<br />
Enquiries from foreign and Commonwealth nationals should<br />
be addressed to Immigration and Nationality Department,<br />
Maritime House, La Route du Port Elizabeth, St Helier JE1<br />
1JD. European Community nationals are generally free to<br />
seek employment in the Island. 01534 838838.<br />
Facilities for the Disabled<br />
You can use your ‘Blue Badge’ <strong>with</strong> some restrictions. In<br />
normal parking zones paycards must be displayed. All<br />
public toilets for disabled persons have Radar locks so<br />
please bring your badge and key <strong>with</strong> you. Alternatively<br />
you can hire a key from our Visitor Services Centre and<br />
St Helier Town Hall paying a £5 refundable deposit.<br />
Please contact the Visitor Services Centre at <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Tourism for full details of attractions, parking and hotel<br />
accommodation for the disabled. 01534 448877.<br />
Shopmobility hire scheme 01534 739672.<br />
Getting Married in <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
You can get married in <strong>Jersey</strong> <strong>with</strong>in three working days<br />
of arriving having registered your intention by post,<br />
rather than in person. For information please contact<br />
the Superintendent Registrar, 01534 502335 or<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism 01534 448877 for a wedding guide.<br />
Hearing Resource Centre<br />
01534 623030 Fax 01534 623031.<br />
www.health.gov.je<br />
Insurance<br />
Like any time away from home, a visit to <strong>Jersey</strong> should<br />
be accompanied by appropriate holiday insurance for all<br />
the passengers travelling. Most operators will provide<br />
insurance on request or you can arrange it directly <strong>with</strong><br />
your insurers.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Blind Society<br />
Westlea Centre, Rue de Huquet, St Martin JE3 6HL.<br />
01534 864689.<br />
Licensing Hours<br />
At the discretion of the proprietor, certain public bars<br />
are open between 0900 - 2300hrs weekdays and<br />
1100 - 2300hrs on Sunday to persons over 18.<br />
Children under the age of 18 are allowed in up to<br />
2100 hrs if accompanied by an adult.<br />
Parking<br />
Single yellow lines indicate that parking is prohibited day<br />
and night and is liable to a fine. Payment for parking is by<br />
paycard and wherever the symbol is displayed. These can<br />
be purchased from <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism, post offices, garages<br />
and shops but not in the car parks themselves apart from<br />
Sand Street. In some roads on the outskirts of St Helier,<br />
parking is controlled by parking discs – obtainable from<br />
St Helier Town Hall. A disc or paycard is not required from<br />
1700 to 0800hrs, nor on a Sunday or a bank holiday<br />
(unless otherwise stated). In some areas of St Helier<br />
parking is controlled by residents’ parking permits only.<br />
Passports<br />
No passport is required for visitors travelling from the<br />
British Isles and the Republic of Ireland. All airline<br />
passengers must have a valid photo ID. However, a<br />
passport is required when travelling to France from<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. The <strong>Jersey</strong> Passport Office 01534 838850.<br />
Pets<br />
Pets can travel freely from the British Isles and the<br />
Republic of Ireland. For other areas ‘Pets Passport<br />
Scheme’ regulations apply. From May to September<br />
between 1030 and 1800hrs dogs on beaches must<br />
be on a lead. For further information log on to<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com.<br />
Places of Public Worship<br />
Details from <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism Visitor Services Centre at<br />
Liberation Square. 01534 448877.<br />
Post Offices<br />
The main post office is in Broad Street, St Helier,<br />
<strong>with</strong> a network of sub-post offices located throughout<br />
the island. <strong>Jersey</strong> postage stamps must be used on all<br />
mail posted from the island.<br />
Public Holidays<br />
The same as the UK, <strong>with</strong> the addition of<br />
Liberation Day, 9th May.<br />
Shopping<br />
The markets and some shops are closed on Thursday<br />
afternoons, otherwise normal shopping hours apply,<br />
usually 0900 – 1730hrs. There is no general Sunday<br />
opening in <strong>Jersey</strong>.<br />
Telephones<br />
The code for <strong>Jersey</strong> is 01534 from the British Isles and<br />
+44 1534 from any other country. Mobile networks<br />
require a roaming facility plus international dialling code<br />
and some ‘Pay as you Go’ phones do not operate in<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong>. Please check <strong>with</strong> your provider.<br />
Visitors’ Medical Treatment<br />
Treatment for visitors can be obtained from all general<br />
medical practices participating in the visitors’ scheme.<br />
This service (excluding prescriptions) is free of charge<br />
to visitors from the UK, including Northern Ireland and<br />
the Isle of Man. Visitors from all other countries will be<br />
charged a fee. Emergency hospital treatment is<br />
available at the General Hospital in St Helier and is free<br />
to visitors from countries <strong>with</strong> which <strong>Jersey</strong> has a<br />
reciprocal health agreement. The costs of repatriation<br />
are not covered under the reciprocal health agreements<br />
and all patients will be required to pay these costs. All<br />
visitors are recommended to obtain travel insurance.<br />
Renal Dialysis<br />
The General Hospital Renal Unit, Gloucester Street,<br />
St Helier, provides holiday dialysis throughout the<br />
year. Advance booking is essential. E111 does not apply.<br />
01534 622126.<br />
Watercraft<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> law requires speedboats, surfboards, sailboards<br />
and personal watercraft to be registered on arrival,<br />
at the Harbour Office, St Helier. 01534 885588.<br />
Insurance documents must be produced.<br />
Smoking Restrictions<br />
Smoking is banned in enclosed public places across the<br />
island. The restrictions apply to all licensed premises,<br />
including pubs and restaurants.<br />
Guest accommodation bedrooms may be exempt if<br />
it has been designated as one in which smoking is<br />
permitted. Please enquire at the time of booking.<br />
Travelling to <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Air Travel to <strong>Jersey</strong> from the UK, Ireland and other Channel Islands<br />
Aberdeen<br />
Belfast City<br />
Birmingham<br />
Bournemouth<br />
Bristol<br />
Cardiff<br />
Cork<br />
Coventry<br />
Doncaster<br />
Dublin<br />
Durham Tees<br />
East Midlands<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Exeter<br />
Glasgow<br />
Gloucester<br />
Isle of Man<br />
Liverpool<br />
Leeds Bradford<br />
London City<br />
London Gatwick<br />
London Heathrow<br />
London Luton<br />
London Southend<br />
Manchester<br />
Newcastle<br />
Norwich<br />
Plymouth<br />
Southampton<br />
Alderney<br />
Guernsey<br />
Flybe*<br />
Flybe*<br />
Bmibaby<br />
Flybe<br />
Blue Islands<br />
Air Southwest<br />
Flybe<br />
Bmibaby<br />
Aer Lingus*<br />
Thomsonfly<br />
Flybe<br />
Aer Lingus*<br />
FlyGlobespan*<br />
Bmibaby<br />
Flybe<br />
Flybe<br />
Flybe*<br />
Manx2<br />
Blue Islands<br />
Manx2<br />
Easyjet<br />
Flybe*<br />
Jet2*<br />
VLM<br />
British Airways<br />
Flybe<br />
Flybmi<br />
Easyjet<br />
Flybe*<br />
Bmibaby<br />
Flybe<br />
Flybe*<br />
Flybe<br />
Air Southwest<br />
Flybe<br />
Aurigny<br />
Blue Islands<br />
Aurigny<br />
Blue Islands<br />
Flybe<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0870 264 2229<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0845 620 2122<br />
0870 241 8202<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0870 264 2229<br />
0870 876 5000<br />
0870 1900 737<br />
0871 552 6100<br />
0870 876 5000<br />
0870 556 1522<br />
0870 264 2229<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 200 0440<br />
0845 620 2122<br />
0871 200 0440<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0207 476 6677<br />
0870 850 9850<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0870 607 0555<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0870 264 2229<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0870 241 8202<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
0871 871 0717<br />
0845 620 2122<br />
0871 871 0717<br />
0845 620 2122<br />
0871 522 6100<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.bmibaby.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.blueislands.com<br />
www.airsouthwest.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.bmibaby.com<br />
www.aerlingus.com<br />
www.thomsonfly.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.aerlingus.com<br />
www.flyglobespan.com<br />
www.bmibaby.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.manx2.com<br />
www.blueislands.com<br />
www.manx2.com<br />
www.easyjet.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.jet2.com<br />
www.flyvlm.com<br />
www.ba.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.flybmi.com<br />
www.easyjet.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.bmibaby.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
www.airsouthwest.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
* Some scheduled flights are run on a seasonal basis. Please check <strong>with</strong> airline for dates.<br />
Air Travel to <strong>Jersey</strong> from the other Channel Islands<br />
www.aurigny.com<br />
www.blueislands.com<br />
www.aurigny.com<br />
www.blueislands.com<br />
www.flybe.com<br />
Tour Operators 2008<br />
Sea Travel to <strong>Jersey</strong> from the UK & other Channel Islands<br />
Guernsey<br />
Poole<br />
Portsmouth<br />
Sark<br />
Weymouth<br />
Saint Malo<br />
(Brittany)<br />
Cherbourg<br />
Granville &<br />
Carteret<br />
(Normandy)<br />
Condor Ferries<br />
Manche Iles Express<br />
HD Ferries<br />
Condor Ferries<br />
Condor Ferries<br />
Manche Iles Express<br />
Condor Ferries<br />
Sea Travel to/from France<br />
Condor Ferries<br />
HD Ferries<br />
HD Ferries<br />
Manche Iles Express<br />
0845 641 0250<br />
01534 880756<br />
0870 460 0231<br />
0845 641 0250<br />
0845 641 0250<br />
01534 880756<br />
0845 641 0250<br />
0845 641 0250<br />
0870 460 0231<br />
0870 460 0231<br />
01534 880756<br />
www.condorferries.com<br />
www.manche-iles-express.com<br />
www.hdferries.com<br />
www.condorferries.com<br />
www.condorferries.com<br />
www.manche-iles-express.com<br />
www.condorferries.com<br />
It is possible to visit the other Channel Islands of Alderney and Herm by Sea from Guernsey.<br />
For further information please contact 01534 448877.<br />
www.condorferries.com<br />
www.hdferries.com<br />
www.hdferries.com<br />
www.manche-iles-express.com<br />
Additional Departures<br />
British Airways and Flybe offer connecting flights from the majority of UK<br />
airports. Please contact airline direct for details.<br />
Seasonal Charters<br />
Many tour operators also offer seasonal charter flights from a choice of UK<br />
regional airports. To find out more information about services to <strong>Jersey</strong> in<br />
your area please visit our `how to get here’ information pages on<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com or call our Visitor Services on 01534 448877.<br />
DISCLAIMER<br />
All travel details are correct at time of going to press (Nov 2007) and<br />
may change during the course of the year. Please check schedules and<br />
departure points before finalising any arrangements by visiting<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com or by contacting your local ABTA bonded travel agent.<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism cannot be held responsible for any changes, errors<br />
or omissions.<br />
CITOG - Channel Island Tour Operators Group – an association of <strong>Jersey</strong> specialists (various departure points):<br />
Airways Holidays<br />
Channel Islands Direct<br />
Channel Islands Travel Service<br />
Condorbreaks.com<br />
Discover <strong>Jersey</strong><br />
Fly<strong>jersey</strong><br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Travel Service<br />
Modern Holidays<br />
Premier Holidays<br />
Preston Holidays<br />
Travelsmith<br />
Travtel<br />
0870 754 7000<br />
08444 937 888<br />
01534 496600<br />
0845 230 1 430<br />
0870 754 5566<br />
0845 230 3240<br />
0870 251 4860<br />
01534 759529<br />
08444 937 777<br />
0870 251 4199<br />
01621 784666<br />
01534 496677<br />
Tour Operators<br />
(national departures unless otherwise stated)<br />
Bakers Dolphin<br />
Crystal Active<br />
Channel Islands Arrivals<br />
David Urquhart Sky Travel<br />
Co-op Breaks<br />
Little Escapes<br />
The Royal Blind Society of the UK<br />
Saga Holidays<br />
Shearings Holidays<br />
Sundecker Holidays<br />
Thomson Cities<br />
Travelsphere<br />
3X Travel<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Specialists in Ireland<br />
J Barter Travel<br />
Self-Catering Specialists<br />
Freedom Holidays<br />
Country Holidays<br />
Hoseasons<br />
Macoles Self Catering holidays<br />
<strong>Jersey</strong> Heritage Trust<br />
01934 415 000<br />
0870 402 0291<br />
08716 661 947<br />
08457 112 233<br />
0844 800 1441<br />
01534 869078<br />
01827 722 574<br />
0800 096 0085<br />
01942 824 824<br />
0845 800 1010<br />
0870 888 025<br />
0870 240 2426<br />
0871 434 1410<br />
Cork: 021 485 1700<br />
Local No: 1890 303 303<br />
01534 725259<br />
08700 781 200<br />
01502 502 588<br />
01534 488100<br />
01534 633304<br />
www.airwaysholidays.com<br />
www.channelislandsdirect.co.uk<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>travel.com<br />
www.condorbreaks.com<br />
www.discover<strong>jersey</strong>.com<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>andguernsey.com<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>travelservice.co.uk<br />
www.modernhotels.com<br />
www.premierholidays.co.uk<br />
www.prestonholidays.co.uk<br />
www.travelsmith.co.uk<br />
www.bakersdolphin.com<br />
www.crystalholidays.co.uk<br />
www.channelescapes.com<br />
www.davidurquharttravel.co.uk<br />
www.co-opbreaks.co.uk<br />
www.littleescapes.com<br />
www.saga.co.uk<br />
www.shearings.com<br />
www.sundecker.com<br />
www.thomsoncities.co.uk<br />
www.travelsphere.co.uk<br />
www.3xtravel.co.uk<br />
www.travelnet.ie<br />
www.freedomholidays.com<br />
www.country-holidays.co.uk<br />
www.hoseasons.co.uk<br />
www.macoles.com<br />
www.<strong>jersey</strong>heritagetrust.com<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short break, flight & accommodation only<br />
Hotel only, air & sea packages including low cost airlines<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short break, flight & accommodation only<br />
Year-round sea packages & short breaks<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks, flight & accommodation only<br />
Year-round air packages, short breaks & accommodation only<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation only<br />
Year-round air & sea packages<br />
Hotel only, air & sea packages including low cost airlines<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation only<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation only<br />
Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation<br />
Air & Sea packages<br />
Family activity breaks<br />
Year-round air & sea breaks of any duration<br />
Year-round air & sea packages<br />
Year-round air & sea packages & short breaks<br />
Year-round sea packages<br />
Year-round air & sea packages for blind and visually impaired travellers.<br />
Air packages for over 50’s<br />
Air & Sea packages<br />
Year-round air & sea packages<br />
Year-round packages by air<br />
Air & Sea packages<br />
Year-round packages by sea<br />
Year round air and sea packages.<br />
Year-round air & sea packages<br />
Self Catering Specialists<br />
Self Catering Specialists<br />
Year-round air & sea packages<br />
Year-round accommodation at various Heritage sites.<br />
1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 63
Guernsey<br />
France<br />
England<br />
Alderney<br />
64 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 65