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SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT REPORT


AN ORGANISATION DEVOTED TO<br />

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT<br />

A <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Steering Committee<br />

is made up of managers from the functional and<br />

operational Divisions within the company.<br />

Seven working parties cover different aspects of<br />

sustainable development: Vision and Strategy,<br />

Corporate Governance, Finance and Economics,<br />

Research and <strong>Development</strong>, Safety, Health and Environment,<br />

Social and Human Affairs, Sponsorship and Partnerships.<br />

The work is co-ordinated by the Director of<br />

<strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong>.<br />

Several subject areas are studied by the Committee,<br />

in regular meetings with the Divisions concerned:<br />

• enhancing the capacity of internal reporting and<br />

measuring, with particular reference to the Global<br />

<strong>Report</strong>ing Initiative recommendations,<br />

• increasing the attention paid to all stakeholders,<br />

• giving to group managers in all countries,<br />

to operational and functional Divisions and to brands,<br />

the means to take part in L’Oréal’s sustainable development,<br />

• participating in the work of “progress circles”<br />

that contribute to the development of these subjects and<br />

which offer collective thinking (World Business Council for<br />

<strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong>, etc.).<br />

The concept<br />

L’Oréal has produced its first <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> report<br />

after examining existing practices and studying the recommendations<br />

of international institutions and specialist organisations,<br />

such as the UN, OECD, European Commission, WBCSD<br />

(of which L’Oréal is a member). The Global <strong>Report</strong>ing Initiative<br />

(GRI) reference guide, defined the objective to be reached in<br />

terms of reporting, and helped guide the study.<br />

L’Oréal’s <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Steering Committee covers<br />

seven working groups, each devoted to a different subject<br />

area. Each subject area involves discussion of the issues facing<br />

the company and the objectives to be attained. Data has been<br />

collected, checked and consolidated in order to provide the<br />

most effective description of the situation of the group.<br />

Data relating to safety, health and the environment was examined<br />

and certified by the Environmental Resources Management,<br />

a firm specialised in this area. Social data and data relating to<br />

purchasing and research, shown with an asterisk (*), were validated<br />

by PricewaterhouseCoopers.<br />

This report is a first step along the path of sustained progress,<br />

which has always been an objective of L’Oréal. It will enable the<br />

group to measure and improve its performance in the future.<br />

For more detailed information,<br />

consult the on-line version of this report<br />

on the group Internet site<br />

(http://www.loreal.com/).<br />

This report was published in 2004.<br />

It is based on data from fiscal year <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

Contact<br />

Department for <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong><br />

Winfried Hoelzer<br />

+ 33 (0)1 47 56 86 55


1<br />

Chairman’s Message<br />

L’Oréal and sustainable development<br />

Our values and professional conduct<br />

L’Oréal and Corporate Governance<br />

p2<br />

p4<br />

p6<br />

p8<br />

ECONOMIC AFFAIRS A sustainable and dynamic growth policy p10<br />

A growing market<br />

p11<br />

A sustainable growth strategy<br />

p11<br />

Our business categories and brands<br />

p12<br />

<strong>Sustainable</strong> financial resources<br />

p13<br />

Creating value<br />

p13<br />

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT Innovating each day for future generations p14<br />

Research as a central strategic theme<br />

p15<br />

Responding to the specific needs of a diverse human population p16<br />

Selecting raw materials<br />

p16<br />

Developing alternatives to animal testing<br />

p18<br />

SOCIAL AND HUMAN AFFAIRS Sharing and communicating our experience p20<br />

A growing workforce<br />

p21<br />

International and multi-cultural executive recruitment<br />

p22<br />

Personalised career development<br />

p23<br />

Encouraging mobility<br />

p23<br />

A policy for the development of skills<br />

p23<br />

A pay policy to motivate everybody<br />

p24<br />

A permanent dialogue at all levels<br />

p25<br />

Integration and apprenticeship programmes<br />

p26<br />

Favourable working conditions<br />

p27<br />

SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT Consideration and respect for all environments p28<br />

Organisation and Management<br />

p29<br />

Limiting the impact of our industrial activities<br />

p32<br />

ERM Certification<br />

p39<br />

RESPONSIBILITY AND SOCIETY Commitment to the community p40<br />

Our commitment to society<br />

p41<br />

L’Oréal-UNESCO For Women in Science<br />

p41<br />

Rewarding talent and encouraging vocation<br />

p42<br />

A partnership with international influence<br />

p43<br />

PWC* verification<br />

p44


2<br />

CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE<br />

From sustained growth to<br />

sustainable growth<br />

Going beyond the financial concerns of our organisation, as<br />

detailed in the Annual <strong>Report</strong>, we wish to see this first document<br />

as an expression of our values and of the principles which<br />

guide us. They embody the conviction, built up over almost a<br />

century, that growth should be both sustainable and responsible.<br />

This report describes the most significant steps taken over<br />

a number of years. It also sets goals for the future, for we are<br />

fully aware of the work that remains to be done. We are determined<br />

to move forward step by step thanks to initiatives that<br />

are tangible and measurable.<br />

Looking beyond a purely financial<br />

business model<br />

We have always been guided by a strong central idea: that<br />

there can be no sustainable development for the company<br />

without long-term economic growth. In <strong>2003</strong>, for yet another<br />

year, the growth in L’Oréal’s operating profit was measured in<br />

double figures and all our energy is devoted to maintaining<br />

this progress. That is our ambition. Nonetheless, true to our<br />

corporate culture, we are absolutely convinced that, for that<br />

growth to be truly sustainable, we must look beyond a purely<br />

financial model. That is why we constantly seek to link our<br />

financial performance to robust ethical principles and a genuine<br />

awareness of our responsibility towards all within the<br />

company, and to our environment and the wider community.<br />

The ambition to be socially responsible is closely bound up<br />

with our mission: L’Oréal is dedicated to serving all expressions<br />

of beauty and well-being, which it seeks to make accessible to<br />

women and men all over the world. Our cosmetic products<br />

enable everyone to feel at ease with their body, to express<br />

their beauty, to assert their identity and to express their<br />

creativity. In that respect, they serve human beings in all that<br />

is most profoundly human.<br />

A social project<br />

This corporate project is a thrilling one, and it relies first and<br />

foremost on our 50,000 employees. Motivation, a sense of<br />

belonging, and commitment to financial and societal objectives<br />

are essential in a company whose business development<br />

model is essentially based on internal growth. This great<br />

human adventure is founded on one ambition: to make growth<br />

an element of our social policy and our social policy an element<br />

of growth.


3<br />

Respect for different cultures and<br />

the environment<br />

We also wish our company to be open to diversity for we are<br />

totally convinced that the differences between us enrich our<br />

lives. That diversity shows again in our approach to brand<br />

development. Since it does not seek to project a single image<br />

of beauty, L’Oréal aims to encourage the expression of all the<br />

forms of beauty that make up the incredible diversity of human<br />

faces.<br />

Respect for cultural diversity goes hand in hand with the will<br />

to limit the impact of our activities on the environment. In an<br />

industry which by nature generates little pollution and consumes<br />

little in the way of resources, the Group has already<br />

made significant progress over the past ten years or so and has<br />

set new, ambitious objectives for the future.<br />

Similarly, our responsibility is demonstrated through our commitment<br />

to manufacturing our own products. This provides an<br />

additional guarantee, not only of overall product quality, but<br />

also of respect for social, ethical and environmental rules.<br />

But for L’Oréal, corporate responsibility goes much further.<br />

It is also reflected in actions that demonstrate our desire to<br />

remain close to the communities in which the group operates.<br />

We intend that this document should be factual, in order to<br />

show in real terms how L’Oréal assumes its share of responsibility.<br />

It is an initial report that we shall use as an instrument<br />

for progress. The report and the objectives set out in it commit<br />

the Management Committee, myself and all our employees<br />

worldwide to adopting a much broader view of the corporate<br />

development of L’Oréal. It is our way of asserting our vision of<br />

truly sustainable growth for the future.<br />

Lindsay Owen-Jones<br />

Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of L’Oréal


4<br />

L’Oréal and<br />

sustainable development<br />

Responsible behaviour includes respect for rules and ethical principles, care for the<br />

environment, support for and development of the men and women within the<br />

company, engagement with the communities in which the group is active. L’Oréal<br />

aims to go yet further by emphasising a commitment focussed on five core values.<br />

1<br />

Contribution<br />

to well-being based on scientific foundations<br />

Through its brands, which respect different cultures and identities, L’Oréal is dedicated to the beauty and well-being<br />

of women and of men all over the world. For a century, L’Oréal has worked continually to better understand consumers<br />

and their expectations in order to provide for them. It is thanks to the knowledge acquired and to recognised scientific<br />

expertise that the group can anticipate today the needs of tomorrow. L’Oréal’s continued investment in research<br />

helps guarantee quality, safety and innovation in its products. The group puts on the market only products whose<br />

effectiveness is proven and whose safety is guaranteed by rigorous testing for tolerance and absence of risk. Their<br />

performance is scientifically recognised and proven.<br />

2<br />

Making its technology available to<br />

as many people as possible<br />

A major thrust of the group’s responsibility is towards making its products accessible and<br />

the technology developed by its Research teams widely available. All the brands within<br />

the group and all distribution channels ensure this accessibility. L’Oréal makes the most<br />

advanced technology available to as many people as possible, whether in hygiene, hair<br />

colouring, skincare and make-up products, or in sun protection products that guarantee<br />

increased defence against the risks of exposure to the sun.


5<br />

3<br />

Encouraging<br />

self-expression and diversity<br />

Cosmetics are a time-honoured means of expression for all cultures and all peoples. Thus, since each of its brands<br />

promotes an ideal of beauty in all parts of the world, L’Oréal is attentive to the diversity of skin types, to beauty rituals<br />

and to the perception of beauty.<br />

L’Oréal takes care not to favour any particular model of beauty, but to respond as effectively as possible to the needs<br />

and the desires of all. It does so through:<br />

• research open to the world. L’Oréal’s Research teams seek to discover and evaluate the varying characteristics of<br />

skin and hair in different parts of the world in order to provide scientific responses tailored to the most diverse<br />

requirements,<br />

• a varied brand portfolio: L’Oréal offers a range of brands and beauty concepts, with diverse cultural origins,<br />

• multicultural advertising. The challenge for each brand is to contribute to the diverse perceptions of beauty,<br />

in particular through its choice of ambassadresses who express the many varieties of beauty.<br />

L’Oréal is convinced that variety is synonymous with creativity and enriches the company, and it relies on the diversity<br />

of its teams to ensure that international development respects local cultures.<br />

4<br />

Creating continuous value for<br />

all the company’s partners<br />

Creating value means offering consumers high-quality, technologically high-performing<br />

products born out of permanent innovation. It also means ensuring that the company<br />

performs well financially, for the benefit of its shareholders and all its partners. This<br />

continuity is based on a strategy that gives priority to internal growth, promotes<br />

investment in research, focuses on high added value areas of specialisation, on the<br />

most buoyant market sectors, and on a unique worldwide brand portfolio. This strategy,<br />

implemented on a continuous basis, led yet again to L’Oréal’s recording a year of doubledigit<br />

growth in <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

5<br />

Integrated, locally-based manufacturing<br />

Almost 94% of products marketed by L’Oréal are made at the group’s manufacturing sites by group employees.<br />

By controlling its production, L’Oréal can guarantee its commitment to quality, reliability and safety vis-à-vis its<br />

customers and partners. Industrial production is built around local rather than external production facilities.<br />

Most products come from manufacturing plants located close to the area where they are marketed. Production<br />

integration and commitment to local production provide an assurance of respect for the law and for people.


6<br />

Our values and<br />

professional conduct<br />

A Code of Business Ethics to disseminate<br />

L’Oréal’s values and guiding principles<br />

L’Oréal’s corporate culture is based on strong ethical principles<br />

compiled in a Code of Business Ethics that gives formal expression<br />

to the fundamental values and guiding principles to which<br />

L’Oréal is committed.<br />

The Code of Business Ethics, a major reference document,<br />

articulates what is expected of employees both in the way they<br />

do business and in their day-to-day contacts with others within<br />

the organisation. The Code of Business Ethics, available in<br />

the languages of all countries in which the group operates,<br />

focuses on six areas:<br />

• respect for the law,<br />

• respect for individuals,<br />

• respect for the consumer,<br />

• respect for the environment,<br />

• partnership with customers, distributors and suppliers,<br />

• the principles of loyalty and integrity.<br />

The Code of Business Ethics was distributed to the group’s<br />

50,000 employees in the year 2000, and every person coming<br />

into the group is given a personal copy on joining.<br />

Prohibiting child labour and the use of forced labour are issues<br />

that receive special attention. The group forbids the employment<br />

of anyone under the age of 16 and ensures that these<br />

principles are respected by its subcontractors and suppliers, as<br />

specified* in the group’s General Terms of Purchasing and<br />

Payment. The preservation of privacy in the context of IT and<br />

Internet access is covered by various documents adapted to<br />

the legal framework of the countries concerned. The social,<br />

humanitarian and environmental policy followed by L’Oreal for<br />

many years illustrates the concrete expression given by the<br />

company to its values and guiding principles.<br />

Consciousness raising, training and improvement initiatives,<br />

either in the business units or at product category level, ensure<br />

that these values and principles are properly disseminated and<br />

applied. These initiatives enable the development<br />

of managerial capabilities that respect ethical principles.<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, numerous training modules took place during our<br />

induction seminars for line managers, whose job includes monitoring<br />

the day-to-day application of the Code of Business<br />

Ethics, and for the benefit of Management Committee members.<br />

An international working party has been set up within L’Oréal<br />

to specify, in the most concrete terms possible, the relevant<br />

indicators for the measurement of the actual implementation<br />

of the Code in an international environment. To achieve this,<br />

the working party focussed on key universal principles and the<br />

documents in which these principles are set down: the United<br />

Nations Universal Declaration of Human Rights, the European<br />

Union Charter of Fundamental Rights, European Directives on<br />

equal treatment and discrimination, and the main Conventions


7<br />

and Recommendations of the International Labour Organisation.<br />

The strict application of the Code of Business Ethics is the duty<br />

of the Group Management. The Human Resources Department<br />

in each country is responsible for providing the necessary guidance<br />

at local level. In addition, everyone has the option of<br />

contacting the Office of the General Counsel, Human<br />

Resources, of the group.<br />

Lindsay Owen-Jones, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of<br />

L’Oréal, has delegated to François Vachey, Executive Vice-<br />

President for Human Resources, responsibility for ensuring that<br />

all of the values described in the group’s Code of Business<br />

Ethics are strictly adhered to, in particular those concerning<br />

Human Rights as defined in the United Nations Universal<br />

Declaration of Human Rights.<br />

Additional specific codes<br />

In some business areas, the Code of Business Ethics is supplemented<br />

by codes of practice, such as the one that defines<br />

L’Oréal’s principles and practices applied to purchasing. Their<br />

aim is to establish the relationship with suppliers within a<br />

strict framework and to address specific issues to which the<br />

group’s buyers may be exposed (conflicts of interest, courtesy<br />

invitations, gifts…).<br />

The group’s General Terms for Purchasing and Payment, introduced<br />

in <strong>2003</strong>, ensure that suppliers comply with all the laws<br />

and regulations in force and that they respect the rules of conduct<br />

stated in the fundamental Conventions of the ILO, particularly<br />

on the abolition of forced labour, the eradication of child<br />

labour, equality and freedom of association.<br />

EXTRACT FROM THE CODE OF BUSINESS ETHICS<br />

“Respect for the individual is a fundamental principle at<br />

L’Oréal. It is applied daily and is the focus of human<br />

relations within the company. L’Oréal believes in<br />

the virtue of difference and diversity for the development<br />

of its human assets: L’Oréal categorically rejects all forms<br />

of discrimination, both in thought and deed,<br />

notably concerning sex, age, physical disability,<br />

political and philosophical opinion, union activity,<br />

religious conviction, as well as race and social,<br />

cultural and national origin. Each individual has a right to<br />

respect and human dignity; all behaviour or acts likely to<br />

create a hostile working environment and, in particular,<br />

any form of sexual or moral harassment, will not be tolerated.<br />

Respect for the individual is also demonstrated by L’Oréal’s<br />

commitment to its employees and to those management<br />

values upon which the Company sets great store.<br />

Respect for the individual is maintained through an<br />

ongoing dialogue between individuals and management.<br />

Thus recruitment and career development are based on<br />

competence and quality, appraised objectively in relation to<br />

the Company’s needs.<br />

The group’s Training and <strong>Development</strong> programmes play<br />

a vital part in the development of each employee’s skills<br />

and potential. L’Oréal is committed to facilitating<br />

the professional integration of those who require<br />

special attention: young adults, persons from disadvantaged<br />

backgrounds and those with special physical needs.”<br />

In June <strong>2003</strong>, L’Oréal signed the<br />

Global Compact declaration (a United Nations<br />

agreement), thus committing itself to adopting<br />

and promoting nine universal principles concerning<br />

Human Rights, labour and the environment.


8<br />

L’Oréal and Corporate Governance<br />

L’Oréal is a Société anonyme (the equivalent in French law of a<br />

joint stock company) with capital of €135,212,432 made up of<br />

676,062,160 shares with a par value of €0.2 negotiable on the<br />

Paris Stock Exchange.<br />

At the end of <strong>2003</strong>, Gesparal held a 53.85% controlling interest<br />

in L’Oréal. As might be expected, eight members of the<br />

Board were also on the board of this holding company.<br />

Nevertheless, all Board members are aware of their duty to<br />

represent all shareholders. The Board of Directors of L’Oréal<br />

takes its decisions on a collective basis, in accordance with the<br />

law and codes of good conduct, and guided by preliminary<br />

studies carried out, on its instructions, by Review Committees.<br />

Capital structure at 31 December <strong>2003</strong><br />

Actively involved Directors with<br />

complementary experience<br />

The members of the Board have a range of complementary<br />

experience and bring their expertise to bear on the work of the<br />

Board; they are required to act with due vigilance and enjoy<br />

complete freedom of judgement. Each Board member must<br />

devote the required time and attention to his or her duties.<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, the method of allocating directors’ fees was changed<br />

by the introduction of a variable element based on actual<br />

attendance at meetings.<br />

Increasingly well-informed Directors<br />

Madame Bettencourt<br />

and her family<br />

51%<br />

Gesparal<br />

100%<br />

L’Oréal<br />

Gesparal<br />

53.8%<br />

Public<br />

42.3%<br />

The aim is to provide Board members in advance with a coherent<br />

set of information that is relevant, necessary and sufficient<br />

for them to carry out their work, to facilitate their evaluation<br />

of the operations and financial situation of the group, and to<br />

prepare for discussions and decision-making.<br />

Nestlé<br />

49%<br />

Self-held<br />

shares<br />

3.9%<br />

Organisation of Board meetings<br />

This structure is likely to change in 2004.<br />

Members of the Board are aware of the need for responsible<br />

corporate governance and effective and transparent practices.<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, the Board adopted Internal Rules, which are published<br />

in the Reference Document.<br />

In 2004, following a proposal by the General Management and in<br />

agreement with the Statutory Auditors, the Board decided to bring<br />

forward by more than a month the publication date of the certified<br />

results by examining and then closing the <strong>2003</strong> accounts at<br />

a single meeting at the end of February 2004. The Board also held<br />

a strategy meeting at which General Management commented on<br />

the group’s situation and plans and at which the Board approved<br />

the main strategic development priorities drawn up by the<br />

company, whose steady economic growth has once again been<br />

confirmed. The Directors draw attention to the fact that the strategy<br />

is intended to be implemented over the long term.


9<br />

Review of the Board’s modus operandi<br />

At the end of <strong>2003</strong>, the Board reviewed its modus operandi, as<br />

it has done every year since 1996. Interviews were conducted<br />

with regard to the regulations and recommendations in force.<br />

The summary of the main observations and proposals showed<br />

that the Board is well balanced, and that individual Board<br />

members complement each other to a high degree. Dialogue is<br />

open and discussions are constructive. Board members were<br />

well briefed and were able to express individual views freely<br />

and to propose changes to important aspects of their own work<br />

and to that of the Review Committees.<br />

The specific character of the internal audit<br />

The Audit Committee had the opportunity to give a completely<br />

independent hearing to the Internal Audit Department in the<br />

presence of the Statutory Auditors. This hearing enabled the<br />

Committee to acquaint itself with the current situation in<br />

respect of internal auditing and risk management, and with the<br />

ways in which standards and procedures are applied, particularly<br />

with regard to financial, accounting and management<br />

information. The Committee noted the importance of the information<br />

and control systems currently in place, and which are<br />

constantly upgraded. The Board was subsequently informed of<br />

the Committee’s conclusions.<br />

The Board’s Review Committees<br />

The Board acknowledged the high quality of the work done by<br />

its Committees, whose remits are set out in the Internal Rules.<br />

The Review Committees have the duty to make regular reports<br />

on their meetings to the Board in order further to facilitate<br />

discussions at plenary sessions.<br />

The Audit Committee<br />

The Audit Committee met completely independently on four<br />

occasions in <strong>2003</strong>; each meeting was attended by all three<br />

members. In accordance with the Board’s wishes, the Audit<br />

Committee has enjoyed greater security, and has enhanced its<br />

work, particularly as regards the financial statements, thus<br />

leading to more detailed subsequent discussion.<br />

The Committee familiarised itself with L’Oréal’s Code of Stock<br />

Exchange Ethics, as updated by General Management, and<br />

approved it prior to its publication within the company. The<br />

Committee also reviewed a draft of the Internal Rules for the<br />

Board of Directors; the draft was discussed and approved by<br />

the Board at a plenary meeting.<br />

The Management and Remuneration Committee<br />

The Management and Remuneration Committee held three completely<br />

independent meetings in <strong>2003</strong>; they were attended by<br />

all three members. The Committee may meet at any time it<br />

deems appropriate, for example to evaluate the performance of<br />

the Company’s senior management. The Committee reviewed<br />

the ways in which the remuneration of Company officers is<br />

fixed and reported its findings to the Board. It then put forward<br />

proposals to the Board, which decided on levels of remuneration<br />

for <strong>2003</strong>. The Board’s decisions are set out and<br />

explained in the Reference Document.<br />

The Committee is also responsible for drawing up proposals for<br />

the allocation of stock options, in accordance with the authorisations<br />

given by shareholders at the Annual General Meeting<br />

(AGM), and for reviewing the composition of the Board with a<br />

view to recommending changes when appropriate.<br />

For detailed information on corporate governance within the L’Oréal group,<br />

please refer to the Management <strong>Report</strong> in the Reference Document, volume 3.


10<br />

Financial reporting<br />

The Chief Executive Officer, Lindsay Owen-Jones, and the Executive Vice-Presidents present<br />

the dynamics of L’Oréal’s growth model. The expansion strategy is centred on innovation and<br />

geographic expansion of the brands, particularly in the new Asian markets.<br />

KEY FIGURES<br />

Consolidated turnover (€ millions)<br />

15,000<br />

12,500<br />

10,000<br />

7,500<br />

5,000<br />

10,751<br />

12,671<br />

13,740 14,288 14,029<br />

The group’s net operational profit<br />

(€ millions)<br />

2,000<br />

1,600<br />

1,200<br />

800<br />

827<br />

1,028<br />

1,229<br />

1,456<br />

1,653<br />

Net dividend per share (in euros)<br />

0.90<br />

0.75<br />

0.60<br />

0.45<br />

0.30<br />

0.34<br />

0.44<br />

0.54<br />

0.64<br />

0,73<br />

2,500<br />

400<br />

0.15<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

The net dividend per share excludes tax credit.


11<br />

ECONOMIC AFFAIRS<br />

A dynamic and<br />

sustainable growth policy<br />

L’Oréal is the world cosmetics leader in a growing market. It is dedicated to a single<br />

business activity, and has achieved strong growth for many years. The group has<br />

demonstrated that it is possible to combine financial success and social commitment<br />

while implementing a strict environmental policy.<br />

• DIVIDEND put forward at the Annual General Meeting on<br />

29 April 2004:<br />

0.73 euro, up 14.1% compared with <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

• WORKFORCE: over 50,000 employees of approximately<br />

100 different nationalities at 31 December <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

• WORLDWIDE PRESENCE:<br />

the group is active in 130 countries and has 290 subsidiaries.<br />

• INDUSTRIAL PRESENCE:<br />

the group has 42 factories worldwide.<br />

• INVESTMENT IN RESEARCH:<br />

·3% of turnover devoted to research,<br />

Almost 2,900 scientists engaged in cosmetics and<br />

dermatological research,<br />

·515 patents registered in <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

A growing market<br />

Since 1990, average annual growth in cosmetics has equalled<br />

twice the average growth of global GNP. This growth is continuing<br />

in developed countries, thanks to new demands and new<br />

markets, and it has been stiking in countries that have recently<br />

converted to the market economy.<br />

A sustainable growth strategy<br />

L’Oréal considers internal growth to be the main focus of its<br />

development. The group ensures healthy long-term geographic<br />

and sector-based balance for its brands and increases the rate of<br />

its international expansion through a highly selective acquisition<br />

policy. As a result, L’Oréal has enjoyed double-digit growth<br />

in earnings for many years.<br />

L’Oréal manufactures more than 94% of its products. Control<br />

over its processes is an essential strategic issue and proof of<br />

its civic responsibility. L’Oréal looks to the growth of new markets,<br />

especially in developing regions such as South East Asia.<br />

However, the group’s growth is never at the expense of a<br />

responsible attitude: by manufacturing locally as soon as practically<br />

possible, it contributes to local economic development<br />

and applies the principles outlined in its Code of Business<br />

Ethics.


12 ECONOMIC AFFAIRS<br />

Our business categories and brands<br />

L’Oréal is active in cosmetics (98% of consolidated sales in <strong>2003</strong>) and dermatology.<br />

In cosmetics, L’Oréal is structured in terms of distribution channels.<br />

DIVISION SALES MISSION BRANDS<br />

(€ millions)<br />

Professional Products 1,900 <strong>Development</strong> of products for L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL<br />

hairstyling professionals<br />

MATRIX<br />

REDKEN<br />

Consumer Products 7,506 <strong>Development</strong> of beauty products accessible to all, L’ORÉAL PARIS<br />

by offering the most innovative products<br />

at affordable prices through the widest<br />

range of distribution channels.<br />

GARNIER<br />

MAYBELLINE NEW YORK<br />

SOFTSHEEN.CARSON<br />

Luxury Products 3,441 <strong>Development</strong> of prestige global brands sold LANCÔME<br />

through a selective distribution network<br />

designed to add value to the products, and<br />

providing both advice and service based on<br />

a personal relationship with the customer.<br />

BIOTHERM<br />

HELENA RUBINSTEIN<br />

GIORGIO ARMANI<br />

RALPH LAUREN<br />

CACHAREL<br />

KIEHL’S<br />

SHU UEMURA<br />

Active Cosmetics 749 <strong>Development</strong> of dermo-cosmetic brands VICHY<br />

that meet the highest standards of<br />

skincare safety and effectiveness<br />

(proven by clinical tests), confirmed by<br />

the recommendation of the pharmacist.<br />

LA ROCHE-POSAY


13<br />

<strong>Sustainable</strong> financial resources<br />

Localised production<br />

The group is committed to a strategy of growth in developing<br />

countries. The group’s presence in the market is frequently<br />

accompanied by the setting up of manufacturing facilities in<br />

the country, creating jobs and directly contributing to the<br />

expansion of the geographic region.<br />

Turnover and production of cosmetics<br />

by geographic zone<br />

Creating value<br />

Net operational profit per share before exceptionals<br />

(in euros)<br />

3<br />

2.5<br />

2<br />

1.5<br />

1<br />

0.5<br />

0<br />

1.22<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

1.52<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

1.82<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

2.15<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

2.45<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

n <strong>2003</strong> cosmetics turnover<br />

€ millions<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

53%<br />

7,221<br />

55%<br />

2,108<br />

I<br />

Western Europe<br />

27%<br />

3,784<br />

27%<br />

1,052<br />

I<br />

North America<br />

n Cosmetic production<br />

in millions of units produced,<br />

excluding acquisitions in <strong>2003</strong><br />

20%<br />

2,699<br />

18%<br />

693<br />

I<br />

Rest of the World<br />

10-year investment in L’Oréal shares (in euros)<br />

Purchase of 75 shares at €198.95 on 31 December 1993 (1) 14,921.25<br />

Dividend reinvested<br />

Valuation at 31 December <strong>2003</strong> (1) 59,995.00<br />

(923 shares at €65)<br />

Capital invested multiplied by: 4<br />

Total shareholder return (maturity): 14.3% per year<br />

(1) There was a ten-for-one share split on 3 July 2000.<br />

Increasing investment<br />

In creating products, the group sets itself the highest standards<br />

in quality and innovation to ensure total consumer satisfaction.<br />

This approach involves considerable investment in technology,<br />

whether in terms of production or research.<br />

Capital expenditure in cosmetics and dermatology<br />

(€ millions)<br />

L’Oréal is firmly committed to a policy of improving its financial<br />

information. The Reference Document, the AGM and the<br />

modern financial communication resources intended for international<br />

shareholders are channels that the group is actively<br />

developing. Indeed, they are all regularly recognised as being<br />

of high quality by financial information professionals and by<br />

the shareholders themselves.<br />

600<br />

500<br />

400<br />

300<br />

200<br />

309<br />

339<br />

438<br />

468 490<br />

ááá L’Oréal is included in the main stock exchange<br />

indices that include sustainable development<br />

criteria, such as the FTSE4Good and the DJSI.<br />

100<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

For detailed information on the group’s financial data,<br />

consult the group’s Annual <strong>Report</strong> or www.loreal-finance.com


14<br />

Clean room in L’Oréal’s cutaneous bio-engineering centre, in Gerland,<br />

in the suburbs of Lyons, France<br />

Each week, more than a hundred Episkin reconstructed skin plates are produced for the evaluation of<br />

product safety. The Episkin skin model has been validated as an alternative method to animal testing<br />

for chemical corrosion.<br />

KEY FIGURES<br />

Research budget<br />

(€ millions)<br />

600<br />

500<br />

400<br />

325<br />

383<br />

432<br />

469 480<br />

Personnal engaged in Research<br />

3,000<br />

2,500<br />

2,000<br />

2,350<br />

2,564<br />

2,743 2,823 2,860<br />

Number of patents registered annually<br />

600<br />

500<br />

400<br />

391<br />

420<br />

493 501 515<br />

300<br />

1,500<br />

300<br />

200<br />

1,000<br />

200<br />

100<br />

500<br />

100<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong>*<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong>*<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong>*


15<br />

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT<br />

Innovating each day for<br />

the benefit of future generations<br />

Since it was set up in 1907 by a chemical engineer, Eugène Schueller, L’Oréal has<br />

constantly invested in cosmetics research with one specific objective – to ensure<br />

that all the group’s products derive benefit from the scientific advances of its<br />

laboratories.<br />

Research as a central strategic theme<br />

Each year, L’Oréal invests more than 3% of its revenues in R&D,<br />

the equivalent of about €3bn over the last ten years. L’Oréal has<br />

made it a priority to create its own molecules in all its strategic<br />

product categories: hair styling, hair care, make-up, skin care,<br />

sun protection and body care. Thus, over the last 40 years, more<br />

than 120 different molecules have been developed by the company’s<br />

Advanced Research facilities. Laboratories in France, the<br />

USA and Japan employ almost 2,900 people specialising in some<br />

thirty areas, including chemistry, biology, medicine, physics,<br />

physico-chemistry and toxicology.<br />

To consolidate the competitive advantage resulting from its<br />

technological advances, the group is careful to encourage the<br />

registration of patents. Over the last ten years, more than<br />

3,300 patents have been registered, including 515 in <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

The aim in Research is to bring to the market products which<br />

are effective and safe, and which respect the natural qualities<br />

of the skin and hair.<br />

To achieve this aim involves:<br />

• improving knowledge of healthy skin and hair,<br />

• studying the mechanisms of skin and hair ageing (wrinkles,<br />

loss of elasticity, dryness, blemishes, whitening and hair loss),<br />

• synthesis of new, active molecules,<br />

• design and development of new products in all areas of cosmetics:<br />

skin and hair care, hair styling and colouring, sun protection,<br />

body care, make-up and fragrance. Each year, over<br />

3,000 new formulas are developed by our laboratories and marketed<br />

worldwide.


16<br />

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT<br />

The pursuit of optimum quality is the driving force at every<br />

stage of a product’s design. The aim is continually to improve<br />

a product’s current performance or to add an as yet unknown<br />

property. Performance is assessed at every point in the<br />

research process.<br />

One of the main objectives of our Research effort is to eliminate<br />

from the substances being studied any ingredient that<br />

might pose a threat to the consumer or the environment.<br />

Before any ingredient finds its way into a product, L’Oréal tests<br />

it using all the scientific knowledge and techniques available<br />

to it for assessing human and environmental safety.<br />

The International Safety Assessment Department closely examines<br />

the toxicological profile of all ingredients used and<br />

assesses the safety and tolerance of all formulations before<br />

they are accepted and put on the market. Products which are<br />

on the market undergo monitoring by a global network of specialist<br />

doctors set up by L’Oréal over twenty years ago.<br />

Testing centres have been set up by L’Oréal Research in a large<br />

number of countries in all five continents. These centres<br />

enable the group’s laboratories to test new formulas directly<br />

among the people for whom they are intended. Thanks to this<br />

structure, the different product categories in the group benefit<br />

from studies and tests that take into account the whole<br />

range of requirements, attitudes and characteristics of people<br />

all over the world. Large-scale cosmetics testing studies are<br />

carried out in Latin America, the USA and China, with a view<br />

to identifying the skin and hair types of women of African,<br />

Hispanic and Asian origin.<br />

Selecting raw materials<br />

L’Oréal attaches great importance to the selection of the raw<br />

materials used. To ensure constant improvement in product tolerance<br />

and effectiveness, all of the 2,800 raw materials used<br />

are continuously being renewed - at a rate of 150 per year.<br />

As part of its environmental policy, L’Oréal Research submits<br />

its formulations to risk assessment by outside international<br />

experts.<br />

Responding to the specific needs of<br />

a diverse human population<br />

L’Oréal’s Research scientists direct their efforts towards providing<br />

a scientific response to the most varied requirements.<br />

In vitro, human skin models obtained from cultures of skin<br />

cells from donors of different ages and ethnic groups facilitate<br />

the constant improvement of knowledge of the variations<br />

between skin types. In vivo, hair samples from all over the<br />

world are meticulously examined in terms of colour, composition,<br />

structure, resistance to the effects of contact with<br />

mechanical equipment and reaction to hair treatment. They are<br />

also cultivated in vitro.<br />

The group is in permanent dialogue with its suppliers all over<br />

the world, with a view to obtaining the highest quality fats,<br />

surfactants, solvents, polymers, plant extracts, propellants,<br />

dyes, pigments, UV filters, active biological ingredients,<br />

preservatives and antioxidants.<br />

It is active in promoting and developing the use of raw materials<br />

from natural, renewable sources. In <strong>2003</strong>, 39.7% of raw<br />

materials by volume came from plants*. Ethanol, for example,<br />

can be obtained from beetroot, and coconut can be used to<br />

produce fats and surfactants. The remaining raw materials are<br />

either synthetic or products that are very commonly found in<br />

nature (iron or titanium oxides, clay and schist).


17<br />

A PRE-EMPTIVE APPROACH TO HUMAN AND ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY<br />

When the first scientific data on the potential hazards associated with the outbreak of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE)<br />

in the United Kingdom became available, L’Oréal took immediate action.<br />

Although the conclusions of the experts were reassuring, the group asked its suppliers of bovine extracts to provide certificates of<br />

origin and of production process. From 1992, long before regulations made it compulsory in 1996, all ingredients derived from<br />

organs defined as high risk by the WHO were eliminated from our formulations.<br />

Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) were suspected of depleting the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere as early as the 1970s.<br />

As a precaution, under the aegis of the United Nations, the Montreal Protocol was signed in 1987 and has been amended several<br />

times since. Some 160 countries have committed to the Protocol, the aim of which is gradually to phase out the production,<br />

sale and consumption of substances that deplete the ozone layer.<br />

The Montreal Protocol resulted in a European Regulation issued in 1994. L’Oréal had already replaced CFCs used as aerosol<br />

propellants by 1989.<br />

L’ORÉAL INSTITUTE FOR ETHNIC HAIR AND SKIN RESEARCH<br />

This Advanced Research institute was created in Chicago in 2000, in order to increase knowledge of the properties and<br />

specific requirements of the skin and hair of people of different origins, in particular those of African descent.<br />

It is the first of its kind in the world. In addition to its own research, it collaborates with Northwestern University in Chicago and<br />

Howard University in Washington.<br />

In order to share and disseminate knowledge on the ethnicity of hair and skin from all over the world, L’Oréal initiated a series of<br />

symposiums. The first, held in September 2001, was entitled Ethnic hair and skin: what is the state of the science? and brought<br />

together 170 participants, mainly research scientists from universities and industry, dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons.<br />

The most recent, on Ethnic hair and skin: new directions in research, took place in September <strong>2003</strong> and was attended by<br />

even more participants.


18<br />

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT<br />

The principle guiding our choices is the wish to balance product<br />

quality, the health of employees, professionals and consumers,<br />

and respect for the environment. These new raw materials are<br />

the product either of L’Oréal Research or of research carried out<br />

in partnership with our suppliers. This diversified approach has<br />

enabled much progress to be made in the selection of raw materials,<br />

and the group intends to develop it in order to achieve<br />

greater respect for the environment and for biodiversity.<br />

Developing alternatives to animal testing<br />

The group’s research laboratories have always devoted considerable<br />

resources to ensuring the safety of its products and, in<br />

addition, to developing and validating alternative methods to<br />

animal testing. In 1989, L’Oréal had already stopped this practice<br />

and had developed alternative methods used routinely to<br />

assess tolerance of new formulas. These methods include cell<br />

culture testing and testing on reconstructed skin models<br />

(Episkin). They enable the study of several areas of toxicity (eye<br />

and skin irritation, photo toxicity and percutaneous absorption).<br />

EPISKIN<br />

The Episkin model is used routinely in L’Oréal laboratories<br />

to evaluate skin tolerance of formulas and ingredients.<br />

It is manufactured by the group on an industrial basis at<br />

the Cellular Bioengineering Centre recently built in Gerland,<br />

near Lyons, France.<br />

Episkin has been scientifically validated in Europe as<br />

an alternative method for the carrying out of skin corrosion<br />

tests. L’Oréal is currently involved in the campaign to<br />

validate Episkin for skin irritation testing, and is pursuing<br />

its work in other areas, in collaboration with industrial and<br />

academic partners, the ECVAM (European Centre for the<br />

Validation of Alternative Methods) and the OECD.<br />

Suppliers of chemical ingredients are required to guarantee<br />

their safety and harmlessness before they reach the market.<br />

At the present, most testing required under the various regulations<br />

can be carried out only on animals.<br />

For a number of years, L’Oréal has also been committed to<br />

research, development and validation of methods leading to<br />

reducing and replacing animal testing of the chemical ingredients<br />

used in cosmetics.<br />

There are currently three areas of toxicity for which alternative<br />

methods have been validated and which replace animal testing:<br />

skin corrosion, phototoxic potential and percutaneous<br />

absorption. L’Oréal Research has contributed extensively to the<br />

development, validation and international regulatory acceptance<br />

of these tests.


19<br />

As part of the search for alternative methods, L’Oréal has developed<br />

original in vitro techniques, particularly in the area of<br />

human skin models. Among the different models developed,<br />

the group’s research teams are credited with the world’s first<br />

skin model containing Langerhans cells, which play a crucial<br />

role in allergic response.<br />

L’Oréal conducted this research as the lead laboratory within a<br />

European Commission programme. In the future, if this model<br />

were reproduced on an industrial scale, it could be put forward<br />

as an alternative to skin allergy testing, alongside other cellbased<br />

tests.<br />

Looking beyond the progress already made, industry and scientific<br />

research as a whole face a complex challenge: that of<br />

developing and validating alternative methods of evaluating<br />

chemical ingredients in fields where there are currently<br />

no alternatives to animal testing – and within the timeframe<br />

set by the seventh amendment to the European Cosmetics<br />

Directive.<br />

L’Oréal is committed to bringing all its skills to bear on developing<br />

these new methods.


20<br />

Permanent dialogue, sharing knowledge, comparing ideas<br />

At L’Oréal, teamwork is part of everyday life, and takes place in an environment that is dynamic,<br />

international and convivial.<br />

KEY FIGURES<br />

Growth of the workforce<br />

Breakdown of personnel by<br />

geographic zone in <strong>2003</strong>*<br />

Breakdown of managers by gender in <strong>2003</strong>*<br />

60,000<br />

50,000<br />

40,000<br />

30,000<br />

20,000<br />

10,000<br />

0<br />

43,039<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

48,222<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

49,150 50,491 50,500<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

France<br />

30%<br />

Europe<br />

excluding<br />

France<br />

29%<br />

11% Asia<br />

Latin America<br />

7%<br />

Africa/<br />

Oceania<br />

4%<br />

North<br />

America<br />

19%<br />

n Women<br />

n Men<br />

51% 49%


21<br />

SOCIAL AND HUMAN AFFAIRS<br />

Sharing and communicating<br />

our experience<br />

L’Oréal has based its Corporate plan on the determination to establish a close link<br />

between economic performance and social achievement. The clear aim is to be one<br />

of the most dynamic companies in terms of remuneration, career development, profit<br />

sharing and overall attractiveness to employees. The monitoring of expectations all<br />

over the world ensures that motivation and commitment to the company go hand in<br />

hand with a share in the group’s continued success.<br />

The quality of L’Oréal’s products, as well as the group’s overall<br />

development, depend on every employee at every level of the<br />

organisation, who now benefit from local profit-sharing<br />

schemes in line with the growth of results in each country.<br />

Growth and forward planning enable us to carry out changes<br />

in the interest of employees and to anticipate restructuring<br />

initiatives.<br />

For L’Oréal, developing a sustainable human resources policy<br />

means adopting the following objectives:<br />

• motivation of our teams, particularly through a highly<br />

dynamic approach to remuneration and mobility,<br />

• recruitment of talented people from multicultural backgrounds<br />

and encouragement of diversity,<br />

• offer of exceptional international career opportunities,<br />

• promotion of personal and professional development through<br />

the training programmes offered by Continuing Education and<br />

through contrasting experience,<br />

• encouragement of social dialogue,<br />

• support for the inclusion of people in difficulty, especially<br />

youngsters and those who are handicapped. L’Oréal intends to<br />

maintain this activity as a principal focus of its Corporate<br />

Social Responsibility initiatives,<br />

• guarantee of the best possible working conditions.<br />

A growing workforce<br />

The group’s expansion brings about the creation of many jobs.<br />

In 10 years, L’Oréal’s workforce has risen from 32,261 to<br />

50,500 employees. L’Oréal is convinced that variety is a source<br />

of enrichment, and attaches great importance to the development<br />

of a highly diverse workforce: 94 different nationalities<br />

are represented within the group*. The group has built a database,<br />

currently limited to managerial staff, that gives precise<br />

figures for the number of people joining and leaving the company<br />

or moving within it, as well as for in-house training and<br />

the size of the workforce in each country.


22<br />

SOCIAL AND HUMAN AFFAIRS<br />

The group carefully monitors the male/female balance of its<br />

workforce worldwide; women represent 51% of managerial staff<br />

and, on average, a third of all Management Committee members*.<br />

International and multi-cultural<br />

executive recruitment<br />

The recruitment of executives is a key aspect of L’Oréal’s sustainable<br />

development strategy.<br />

RAISING AWARENESS OF OUR ACTIVITY AND<br />

PASSING ON KNOWLEDGE<br />

To share its management expertise, make L’Oréal’s skills<br />

more widely known and identify talented individuals,<br />

the group has developed the L’Oréal e-Strat Challenge and<br />

the L’Oréal Marketing Award.<br />

E-Strat Challenge<br />

This corporate strategy game gives students from all over<br />

the world (undergraduates and MBA students) the opportunity<br />

to take the virtual helm of a leading international cosmetics<br />

company.<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, L’Oréal e-Strat Challenge was won by a cosmopolitan<br />

team from INSEAD (see photo above).<br />

Marketing Award<br />

This competition, which focuses on creativity and marketing,<br />

is intended for the students of targeted colleges and<br />

universities. Teams of 3 students are required to imagine<br />

a new product range with its associated packaging and<br />

advertising campaign.<br />

The Universum <strong>2003</strong> survey involved 6,776 students<br />

from 81 schools and universities in 18 European countries.<br />

L’Oréal was ranked second among both men and women and<br />

first among women as the company they would “most like<br />

to work for”.<br />

Developing diversity and openness<br />

Whether in terms of culture, qualifications, training or nationality,<br />

L’Oréal’s policy is to continue to enrich its workforce by<br />

recruiting talented, open-minded people from diverse backgrounds.<br />

For L’Oréal, earlier education or training is not the only criterion<br />

for selection. L’Oréal attaches great importance to candidates’ personality<br />

and individual qualities: creativity, capacity for commitment,<br />

openness to the idea of a truly international organisation.<br />

An international focus<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, L’Oréal recruited 1,418 managers of 70 different<br />

nationalities in 53 countries*. 11% of candidates recruited in<br />

<strong>2003</strong> were of a nationality other than that of the country in<br />

which they were recruited.<br />

Developing partnerships with universities<br />

The group’s involvement with universities has been increased<br />

and it now has close partnerships with 125 universities in all<br />

parts of the world*. These take different forms: endowment of<br />

chairs, business games, business case-studies, lecture series or<br />

internships. The internship scheme is the key to a first practical<br />

experience of work. An internship is not merely a brief period<br />

spent in the company: more often than not it is the first<br />

stage of a career within the group. In <strong>2003</strong>, 1,916 internships<br />

were offered in 46 countries*.


23<br />

Personalised career development<br />

Encouraging mobility<br />

It is the group’s intention to give its employees outstanding<br />

and personalised career opportunities.<br />

Showing trust in young people by<br />

giving them early responsibility<br />

L’Oréal gives priority to recruiting young graduates with a view<br />

to constructing careers over the long term. Of the future managers<br />

recruited worldwide in <strong>2003</strong>, 47% were either beginners<br />

or people with less than 3 years’ work experience*. The group<br />

thus includes a pool of talented young individuals to whom it<br />

entrusts responsibilities at an early stage.<br />

L’Oréal was ranked first for the “promotion of leaders” in the<br />

survey carried out by Hewitt Associates in October <strong>2003</strong>.<br />

Organising a personalised and<br />

imaginative approach to career tracking<br />

The group is attentive to the career plans and expectations of<br />

its employees. L’Oréal relies on its worldwide human resources<br />

network as a measure of the quality of its career development.<br />

To ensure that the needs and aspirations of individuals are<br />

taken into account, L’Oréal has developed a formalised appraisal<br />

system that ensures transparency and includes a reference<br />

guide covering managerial skills and job-specific skills*.<br />

The intention is that each employee should have the benefit of<br />

a year-end appraisal interview giving them quality time in<br />

which to engage in dialogue with management; young managers<br />

(less than 5 years in the company) also benefit from a<br />

mid-year appraisal interview.<br />

The diversity that L’Oréal seeks relies on a policy of geographical<br />

and occupational mobility.<br />

Encouraging international mobility<br />

International mobility is part of L’Oréal’s strategy for the<br />

growth and development of its business, which is increasingly<br />

international. L’Oréal seeks to enhance the quality of its international<br />

management and local workforce by the addition of<br />

young or experienced expatriates. They contribute to the<br />

group’s development while broadening their knowledge and<br />

honing their skills.<br />

At the end of <strong>2003</strong>, 493 expatriates of 47 different nationalities<br />

were employed in management roles in 53 countries*.<br />

21.5% were women.<br />

To support and facilitate these international movements, the<br />

group offers employees a handbook and a set of guidelines to<br />

provide a framework for expatriates and their families during<br />

their missions abroad, and on their return home.<br />

Enabling occupational mobility<br />

Internal mobility gives employees the opportunity to acquire<br />

skills in various areas and to gain early access to jobs involving<br />

responsibility. As a result of their varied experience, they<br />

are better able to pass on L’Oréal’s know-how. In <strong>2003</strong>, 27% of<br />

executives took on new responsibilities.<br />

A policy for the development of skills<br />

L’Oréal expects all its employees to be part of an ongoing<br />

process aimed at increasing and enhancing their knowledge<br />

and their skills.


24<br />

SOCIAL AND HUMAN AFFAIRS<br />

Providing quality training<br />

In 1970, L’Oréal set up a Corporate Continuing Education<br />

Department in order to make career development a real lever<br />

for the group’s growth strategy.<br />

This Department is backed up by the training departments in<br />

the divisions and the Management <strong>Development</strong> Centres based<br />

in Singapore, New York, Rio and Paris. In 1971, the European<br />

Centre for Continuing Education (CEDEP) in Fontainebleau,<br />

France, was set up by a number of international companies,<br />

including L’Oréal, in conjunction with INSEAD. CEDEP enables<br />

L’Oréal to develop management training programmes adapted<br />

to its own aims and business categories, with the advantage of<br />

academic input at the highest international level.<br />

Adapting training and development initiatives<br />

to individual needs<br />

In 2002, L’Oréal launched the “Talent <strong>Development</strong>” project,<br />

accompanied by a vast publicity and training campaign*. This<br />

evaluation programme is intended to facilitate listening and<br />

dialogue; it centres on 9 managerial competencies for which<br />

specific training or development action may be provided.<br />

Many countries, including France and the USA, immediately<br />

made the programme available to all employees.<br />

Introduction of indicators<br />

A global reporting system provides for the analysis of Training<br />

activity. In <strong>2003</strong>, 42% of employees (60% of managerial staff)<br />

underwent training, for an average period of 5 days.<br />

Better access to training for all<br />

By devolving training, the Management <strong>Development</strong> Centres<br />

have made it much more accessible and opened up high quality<br />

programmes to many more people. An educational kit entitled<br />

“Discovery” has been distributed in all the subsidiaries.<br />

Everyone who joins L’Oréal is provided with essential information<br />

about the group and made aware of the management<br />

values set out in the Business Code of Ethics.<br />

Diversity is being gradually incorporated into management<br />

training programmes at CEDEP.<br />

“COOL” (CAREERS AND OPPORTUNITIES ON LINE)<br />

“COOL” is an intranet-based job exchange. It encourages<br />

employees’ occupational and geographical mobility by<br />

giving them access to all vacancies in a particular country.<br />

An international and inter-Divisional Corporate Training Course<br />

was given in New York to raise managers’ awareness of the multicultural<br />

nature of L’Oréal’s brands and workforce.<br />

A pay policy to motivate everybody<br />

“COOL” was developed and launched in April 2000 by<br />

L’Oréal USA. In <strong>2003</strong>, 26.3% of job vacancies were filled<br />

internally via “COOL”.<br />

In May 2002, “COOL” was introduced in France,<br />

chosen as the pilot country for Europe. The system shows<br />

all job vacancies available, with the exception of those at<br />

management level. Of the 264 job vacancies posted online<br />

in <strong>2003</strong>, 122 (46%) were filled via “COOL”.<br />

L’Oréal’s global pay policy reflects its recognition of its employees’<br />

involvement in the company’s development and simultaneously<br />

aims to attract talented individuals.<br />

Although it applies to all the group’s employees, the application<br />

of the policy varies according to the job and to the level of<br />

responsibility involved.


25<br />

Recognising individual qualities<br />

A permanent dialogue at all levels<br />

L’Oréal offers competitive rates of pay. Remuneration is linked<br />

to the job and takes into account potential as a means of playing<br />

a role in managers’ long-term development and involvement.<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, 2,500 managers, a fifth of the group’s managers<br />

worldwide, benefited from stock-options.<br />

Sharing in collective achievement<br />

L’Oreal gives financial rewards to all employees, in line with<br />

collective achievement. Since 2001, a “Worldwide Profit Sharing”<br />

(WPS) scheme has been implemented in every country*. It is a<br />

variable and collective share of remuneration, depending on<br />

the results of each country, and is a mainstay of the group’s<br />

remuneration policy – similar to profit sharing in France, which<br />

represents 16% of employees’ overall remuneration. The group<br />

hopes that WPS will strengthen its employees’ sense of belonging<br />

and increase their motivation. In <strong>2003</strong>, L’Oréal’s General<br />

Management required countries to pay employees the equivalent<br />

of two and a half weeks’ salary if performance objectives<br />

were fully met*. The group looks to continue the development<br />

of WPS, with the aim of bringing it up to 4 weeks’ salary by<br />

2005/2006.<br />

The quality of the “social climate” within the group is the<br />

result of permanent dialogue and of the pursuit of consensus<br />

between Management, employees and their representatives.<br />

These exchanges are facilitated by decentralised structures of<br />

representation, both legal and informal.<br />

In 1996, an agreement was reached between the Management<br />

and French and European trade unions (FECCIA and EMCEF) for<br />

the setting up of L’Oréal’s European Social Dialogue Works<br />

Council (IEDS).<br />

This agreement, renewed each year, anticipates the integration<br />

of 10 new Union European member countries in 2004. The purpose<br />

of this body is to inform and consult staff representatives<br />

(social exchange and dialogue) about the group’s current situation<br />

and its economic, financial and social prospects. In 2004,<br />

the IEDS is made up of 30 members representing 15 countries,<br />

for whom economic and social training is provided. A Secretariat<br />

for Liaison, in which at least two nationalities must be represented,<br />

is responsible for maintaining links between Management<br />

and the members.


26<br />

SOCIAL ET HUMAIN<br />

Integration and apprenticeship<br />

programmes<br />

L’Oréal is developing an active apprenticeship policy and<br />

numerous vocational integration initiatives in France and<br />

internationally.<br />

Welcoming apprentices<br />

Passing on experience and know-how to young people is a tradition<br />

that is strongly anchored in the corporate culture of the<br />

group. L’Oréal sees apprenticeship as a means of achieving<br />

excellence by:<br />

• training young people and giving them their first work experience,<br />

• developing a channel for recruiting high-calibre personnel in<br />

some of its business areas (a third of qualified apprentices has<br />

been taken on in France).<br />

In France, 1,750 apprentices have been taken under the wing of<br />

almost 1,200 apprenticeship supervisors since 1993. In <strong>2003</strong>,<br />

they numbered 401 (or 3.3% of the workforce), and 89% of<br />

them were studying for qualifications involving 2 years or more<br />

of post A-level study*.<br />

Internationally, the concept of work-based training takes different<br />

forms:<br />

• work-based training in Belgium, Spain, Italy, the UK (Student<br />

Sponsorship scheme) and the USA,<br />

• international programmes for French apprentice engineers.<br />

Encouraging integration of the socially<br />

disadvantaged and giving disabled employees<br />

access to the workplace<br />

In order to facilitate professional integration of the disadvantaged,<br />

particularly the young and disabled people, L’Oréal has<br />

set up partnerships with specialists in professional integration:<br />

• establishment of integration programmes for unemployed<br />

young people who lack qualifications,<br />

• a policy for the employment of disabled people: internships,<br />

adapting sites and tools, cooperation with specialist centres,<br />

• solidarity initiatives,<br />

• providing neighbourhood services in the workplace.<br />

In Brazil, the “Viva Rio” programme provides hairstyling training<br />

for women from the “favelas”. At the end of the training<br />

programme, they are awarded a certificate to promote their<br />

professional and social integration.<br />

The L’Oréal plant in Burgos, Spain, collaborates with the<br />

ASPANIAS sheltered workshops (subcontracting) and has set up<br />

full training programmes.


27<br />

L’Oréal Thailand launched the “Coiffeurs du cœur” project in<br />

partnership with the Pakkred women’s integration and training<br />

Centre in the province of Nonthaburi.<br />

The aim is to provide unemployed or disadvantaged women<br />

with training leading to a qualification in cutting, styling and<br />

colouring techniques.<br />

In France, L’Oréal increased its involvement with the Association<br />

Valentin HAUY in <strong>2003</strong>; the Association helps the blind and visually<br />

impaired to overcome their disability through:<br />

• internships,<br />

• short-term and long-term contracts,<br />

• employment workshops: preparation of a curriculum vitae and<br />

covering letters, interview practice.<br />

A wealth of resources is provided to help employees in their<br />

day-to-day work: a worldwide directory, L’Oréal intranet,<br />

Internet access, etc.<br />

Looking after employees’ health<br />

Keeping employees healthy is a permanent priority for L’Oréal:<br />

• removal of biomechanical causes by the phasing out of packing<br />

lines that involve a lot of manual handling,<br />

• increasing awareness and training initiatives for employees<br />

and management,<br />

• carrying out job and design ergonomics studies,<br />

• dissemination of best practices,<br />

• personalised medical care.<br />

Recognising initiative and sharing experience<br />

Sharing experience: the group seeks to pass on the results of<br />

successful actions carried out on one site to all other units.<br />

With this in view, the “L’Oréal Apprenticeship Award” is made<br />

every 2 years, alternating with the “L’Oréal Integration Award”.<br />

These awards provide an opportunity for L’Oréal to show its<br />

appreciation to the partners on which it relies.<br />

L’ORÉAL FINLAND - “GENEROSITY PROGRAMME”<br />

Since May 2002, 5 beauty advisers have been giving their<br />

services to sick people and children, within the framework<br />

of a partnership between L’Oréal Finland and three<br />

institutions based in Helsinki:<br />

Favourable working conditions<br />

L’Oréal attaches great importance to creating the best possible<br />

working conditions.<br />

Creating spaces for living and working<br />

Working and interacting with others in a convivial atmosphere<br />

are additional factors affecting staff motivation. Communal<br />

facilities such as a company restaurant, a café and meeting<br />

rooms are particularly appreciated. Particular attention is paid<br />

to interior features such as plants and lighting. Special facilities<br />

provide access for those who are disabled.<br />

• Mental Health Clinic<br />

This psychiatric institution cares for people with serious<br />

mental problems. Skin care and make-up sessions are held<br />

once a week and are very successful.<br />

• Radiotherapy Hospital<br />

Patients spend the day in this hospital for intensive cancer<br />

care. Skin care and make-up sessions are now provided for<br />

them every Thursday.<br />

• Children’s Hospital<br />

A beauty adviser makes a weekly visit to this hospital for<br />

children and teenagers.


28<br />

Transferring raw material to a manufacturing vat<br />

At each stage in production, health and safety rules are respected.<br />

KEY FIGURES<br />

The conventional frequency rate<br />

12<br />

10<br />

8<br />

6<br />

4<br />

11.2<br />

9.7<br />

7.8<br />

6.0<br />

4.3<br />

Transportable waste recycling coefficient<br />

(in %)<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

78.7<br />

87.3<br />

83.3 86.3 88.9<br />

Water consumption per finished product<br />

(in litres)<br />

1.10<br />

1.00<br />

0.80<br />

0.60<br />

0.40<br />

0.85 0.83 0.85 0.84<br />

0.82<br />

2<br />

20<br />

0.20<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

The conventional frequency rate represents<br />

the number of L’Oréal personnel involved in<br />

an accident (absent from work on the day after<br />

the accident) per million hours worked.<br />

The recycling coefficient represents the relationship,<br />

expressed as a percentage, between the mass of<br />

transportable waste recycled and that of all<br />

transportable waste.


29<br />

SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT<br />

Consideration and respect for<br />

all environments<br />

Faithful to its commitment to improve industrial safety, occupational health conditions<br />

and environmental protection, and to meet well-defined objectives, L’Oréal has followed<br />

a strict Safety, Health and Environment (SHE) policy for a number of years.<br />

This policy involves in particular:<br />

• respect for the law and local standards in terms of Safety,<br />

Health and Environment,<br />

• manufacturing compliant with SHE standards developed by<br />

L’Oréal, in addition to the required minima,<br />

• encouraging employees to improve SHE practices and implementing<br />

a permanent process of improvement,<br />

• ensuring that individuals and companies with whom L’Oréal<br />

has dealings respect these principles,<br />

• implementing environmental initiatives and active policies,<br />

notably for the reduction of energy and water consumption,<br />

• recycling of waste in all areas of activity.<br />

Organisation and management<br />

L’Oréal has implemented practices that lead to optimum environmental<br />

performance on all its sites: manufacturing sites,<br />

research laboratories and office buildings throughout the world.<br />

The group has put in place the mechanisms needed for this<br />

task: dedicated organisation and management, staff training<br />

and an audit process.<br />

The Production and Technology Department (DGT) ensures functional<br />

responsibility for the protection of people, property and<br />

the environment at all the group’s sites through the SHE and<br />

<strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Departments. These Departments are<br />

linked to each operational entity through SHE managers who<br />

coordinate the actions of local experts at each of their sites.


30 SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT<br />

The SHE Department is responsible for:<br />

• internationally available technical assistance in relation to<br />

Safety, Health and Environment,<br />

• the supervision of experts and SHE specialists at all levels of<br />

the organisation,<br />

• on all manufacturing sites,<br />

• monitoring the application of standards,<br />

• circulating best practices in the interest of constant<br />

improvement.<br />

The <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Department is responsible for:<br />

• informing, training and raising the awareness of employees<br />

throughout the world,<br />

• coordinating environmental and sustainable development<br />

programmes,<br />

• informing people both inside and outside the group of the<br />

results obtained.<br />

Together, the two Departments set the objectives to be<br />

achieved and monitor progress.<br />

Resources in support of SHE management<br />

The RIO and RIS (organisation and safety of industrial risks)<br />

are in-house documents issued by the Production and Technology<br />

Department setting out the rules governing L’Oréal’s overall<br />

policy regarding SHE. They define the responsibilities of each<br />

person, the information systems, training, and measures for<br />

improvement to be implemented, as well as the means for<br />

monitoring results.<br />

The “Safety, Health and Environment” performance indicators<br />

are used on all sites. Each month, they record 65 accident<br />

prevention parameters, provide information on incidents and<br />

report on figures relating to water and energy consumption,<br />

atmospheric discharges, effluents, waste and recycling. They<br />

are carefully analysed by the group’s SHE experts and form the<br />

basis for corrective action to enable objectives to be met.<br />

The SHE Awards are in-house prizes designed to motivate<br />

employees to improve risk management and contribute to environmental<br />

protection:<br />

• award for the best safety initiative (factories),<br />

• award for the best environmental initiative (factories),<br />

• award for the best safety, health and environment initiative<br />

(distribution centres and office buildings),<br />

• award for the best improvement (factories, distribution centres<br />

and office buildings),<br />

• Production and Technology Department SHE awards for excellence<br />

(factories, distribution centres).<br />

The aim of the awards is to pass on the fundamental values of<br />

continued improvement: initiative, improvement and stability.<br />

SHAP (Safety Hazard Assessment Programme) is an analytical<br />

programme for risk prevention. The SHAP identifies the risks<br />

involved in different areas of activity; when standardised<br />

across the group, it provides a precise cartography of inherent<br />

risks at each plant, enables their extent to be assessed and<br />

leads to new methods for monitoring residual risks.


31<br />

Training and informing employees<br />

Each employee, regardless of position, is made aware of safety,<br />

health and environmental issues, thanks to specific modules<br />

incorporated into the group’s and the sites’ training programmes.<br />

Information about SHE initiatives carried out and the results<br />

obtained is an integral part of communication within the group.<br />

It is circulated to all employees in the company, through internal<br />

publications such as En direct and Usine, the group intranet<br />

site, videos, CD-ROMs, etc.<br />

Industrial production<br />

L’Oréal has 120 industrial sites (factories and distribution centres),<br />

of which five are rated “Seveso” high.<br />

A quarter of L’Oréal’s plants are audited each year<br />

Monitoring through multiple audits<br />

An in-house and/or external audit programme for industrial<br />

sites has been in place for about ten years. It aims to give a<br />

systematic assessment of the progress of the sites in terms of<br />

SHE management.<br />

A quarter of the plants is audited each year, which means that<br />

each plant undergoes an in-depth inspection every four years.<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, 10 plants out of 42 were audited. Outside consultants<br />

perform about a third of these audits.<br />

Audits are also carried out at the factories and distribution<br />

centres by insurance companies. In <strong>2003</strong>, 9 such inspections<br />

dealt with environmental issues and 30 with safety conditions.<br />

Factories and distribution centres operate the group’s policy<br />

for their decentralised purchasing: units within the group carry<br />

out audits of their suppliers, and these include aspects related<br />

to SHE.<br />

Specific Safety, Health and Environment training in<br />

the workplace


32<br />

SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT<br />

Limiting the impact of our industrial<br />

activities<br />

Scope: environmental and safety indicators apply to<br />

100% of the 42 factories and 78 distribution centres,<br />

almost the whole of the group’s activity.<br />

Occupational safety at manufacturing sites<br />

The reduction of accidents and occupational illness at all manufacturing<br />

sites means:<br />

• adhering to local regulations and in-house rules that apply to<br />

the whole group in terms of health, safety and working conditions,<br />

• developing and improving the constructive work process with<br />

employees or their representatives,<br />

• carrying out constant checks and implementing corrective<br />

action,<br />

• communicating “best practices” in the interests of constant<br />

improvement.<br />

During the reporting period in question (since 1999), no fatal<br />

accidents at work were recorded and the work injury frequency<br />

rate was reduced by 62%.<br />

ááá THE TARGET: zero accidents<br />

In <strong>2003</strong>, 55 distribution centres and 11 factories hit the “zero<br />

accident” target. These were Tours, Saint-Quentin and Villepinte<br />

in France, Settimo in Italy, Suzhou in China, Savannah, Linden<br />

and West Caldwell in the USA, Gujarat in India, Carrascal in<br />

Chile and Cosmelor in Japan.<br />

The accident severity rate<br />

0.30<br />

0.25<br />

0.20<br />

0.15<br />

0.10<br />

0.05<br />

0<br />

0.24<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

0.25<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

0.19 0.19<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

0.14<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

The accident severity rate expresses the number of days lost by L’Oréal personnel (as a<br />

result of accidents at work) per 1,000 hours worked.


33<br />

Energy consumption<br />

Although the cosmetics industry consumes little energy compared<br />

with other areas of activity, the group pursues an active<br />

policy of limiting its consumption, for both environmental and<br />

financial reasons.<br />

Total energy used<br />

n Total consumption<br />

in million kWh (1)<br />

t<br />

900<br />

750<br />

600<br />

450<br />

300<br />

150<br />

0<br />

562<br />

191<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

Breakdown by energy source<br />

(in million kWh (1) )<br />

601<br />

184<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

693<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

(1) One million kWh is equivalent to 3.6 gigajoules.<br />

1999 2000 2001 2002 <strong>2003</strong><br />

Electricity 252 264 306 336 355 44%<br />

Gas 271 297 333 354 387 49%<br />

Fuel oil 38 39 54 55 57 7%<br />

Total 562 601 693 745 799 100%<br />

(1) One million kWh is equivalent to 3.6 gigajoules.<br />

Consumption for 1,000 finished products<br />

in kWh<br />

745<br />

199 198<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

799<br />

204<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

tx<br />

230<br />

220<br />

210<br />

200<br />

190<br />

180<br />

170<br />

productivity, have also contributed to a significant increase in<br />

energy consumption.<br />

Even though the group has achieved a high standard in this<br />

area and the possibilities for saving energy are at present limited,<br />

reduction in energy consumption remains our objective.<br />

L’Oréal’s energy policy exploits the experience built up over ten<br />

years as a means of seizing every opportunity in this area.<br />

Water consumption<br />

The group’s water consumption is linked to the water content<br />

of its products. Some products, such as shampoos, require more<br />

water in their manufacture than others. The composition of the<br />

group’s product portfolio therefore has a direct impact on the<br />

average water consumption per finished product.<br />

Total water consumed<br />

n Total consumption<br />

in thousand of m 3<br />

t<br />

3,500<br />

3,000<br />

2,500<br />

2,000<br />

1,500<br />

1,000<br />

0<br />

2,487<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

2,674<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

2,914<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

Consumption per finished products<br />

in litres<br />

3,214 3,280<br />

0.85 0.83 0.85 0.84<br />

0.82<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

tx<br />

3<br />

2.5<br />

2<br />

1.5<br />

1<br />

0.5<br />

0<br />

Supply<br />

Electricity used by the sites locally is provided by local utilities<br />

with their own means of production. It is therefore difficult to<br />

trace the energy required by each site to produce the electricity<br />

used by L’Oréal factories.<br />

Performance analysis<br />

The rise in energy consumption at L’Oréal’s manufacturing sites<br />

is the result of increase in production and the acquisition policy<br />

of the last five years. The automation of manufacturing systems<br />

and the improvement of health procedures to enhance<br />

safety and working conditions for employees, and to increase<br />

Performance analysis<br />

The manufacture of products like shampoos, which require the<br />

most water, has increased during the last three years. In spite<br />

of this, over the past ten years technological innovation and<br />

the day-by-day vigilance of employees have reduced the<br />

amount of water needed for manufacturing by 27%: in 1993,<br />

1.16 litres were used per finished product.


34 SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT<br />

ááá THE TARGET<br />

5% reduction in water consumption<br />

per finished product in the next two years<br />

All manufacturing sites have a drop-off centre<br />

Initiatives<br />

To reduce waste, the cooling water for machines and products<br />

is recycled and reused. In addition, during demineralisation of<br />

the water needed to manufacture products, several factories<br />

recycle the mineral-concentrated water and use it for cleaning<br />

purposes.<br />

Since <strong>2003</strong>, a special programme focused on reducing water<br />

consumption includes the development of new cleaning technologies<br />

and methods to identify and reduce water loss.<br />

At many sites, the pipes transporting the product are cleaned<br />

at the end of each cycle by a special cleaning system. A “pig”<br />

is propelled through the pipe, scraping the inner surface as it<br />

goes. This system not only reduces the amount of water consumed<br />

in the cleaning process, but also leads to less product<br />

loss, less waste and less residue in the effluent.<br />

Waste is sorted at source


35<br />

Atmospheric discharges<br />

Greenhouse gases<br />

None of L’Oréal’s manufacturing processes directly emits greenhouse<br />

gases. Only steam production and oil-fired heating of<br />

the group’s buildings produce CO2 emissions.<br />

Other atmospheric emissions<br />

SO2 emissions are related to the use of oil for heating. In order<br />

to limit these emissions, the group uses natural gas to fuel its<br />

heaters whenever possible.<br />

SO2<br />

CO2<br />

n Total emissions<br />

in thousands of tonnes<br />

t<br />

90<br />

75<br />

60<br />

45<br />

30<br />

15<br />

59.6<br />

62.8<br />

77.2<br />

Emissions per finished product<br />

in grams<br />

84.2<br />

89.0<br />

20 22 22 23<br />

19<br />

tx<br />

90<br />

75<br />

60<br />

45<br />

30<br />

15<br />

n Total emissions<br />

in tonnes<br />

t<br />

75<br />

60<br />

45<br />

30<br />

15<br />

0<br />

40<br />

14<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

41<br />

13<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

60 58<br />

17 15<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

Emissions per finished product<br />

in milligrams<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

65<br />

17<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

tx<br />

50<br />

40<br />

30<br />

20<br />

10<br />

0<br />

0<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

0<br />

Waste<br />

Motor vehicles are a major source of CO2 emissions.<br />

Comprehensive detailed information about the discharges due<br />

to their use in transporting the group’s products and as a<br />

means of transport for employees is not however available.<br />

Nonetheless, the group has for many years been developing<br />

less polluting transport solutions, such as the use of electric<br />

vehicles for certain urban sites and the adoption of combined<br />

road/rail transport methods. Some of the main initiatives in<br />

this area have been carried out on the France-Italy and France-<br />

Spain links, as well as for supplying northern Norway from the<br />

Copenhagen distribution centre.<br />

Gases that deplete the ozone layer<br />

The only gas emissions that deplete the ozone layer come from<br />

propellants for aerosols. The main offending gases (CFCs) have<br />

not been used by L’Oréal since 1989, well before the final ban<br />

came into effect in 1995.<br />

The group makes reducing waste a priority and sets precise<br />

annual targets at each manufacturing site. In the manufacture<br />

of its products, L’Oréal generates various types of discharge,<br />

including so-called “transportable” waste, as opposed to effluent<br />

or atmospheric emissions. Transportable waste is waste<br />

resulting from the manufacturing process that is intended to<br />

leave the manufacturing site (pallets, packaging, building<br />

debris, leftover finished products and materials used in the<br />

manufacturing process).<br />

Transportable waste<br />

n Total transportable waste<br />

in thousands of tonnes<br />

t<br />

150<br />

125<br />

100<br />

75<br />

50<br />

25<br />

0<br />

110.2<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

108.6<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

118.3<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

Transportable waste per finished product<br />

in grams<br />

127.3 128.1<br />

37.5 33.2 33.2 33.9 32.7<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

tx<br />

120<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0


36 SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT<br />

Transportable waste (in thousands of tonnes)<br />

Performance analysis<br />

1999 2000 2001 2002 <strong>2003</strong><br />

Special<br />

technical 28.4 31.1 34.0 38.7 40.0 31.2%<br />

waste (1)<br />

Sludge 9.7 8.2 8.0 10.0 10.3 8.0%<br />

Packaging 17.3 15.2 14.1 14.3 14.8 11.6%<br />

Other<br />

transportable waste 54.8 54.1 62.2 64.3 63.0 49.2%<br />

Total 110.2 108.6 118.3 127.3 128.1 100%<br />

(1) Special technical waste is made up of finished or semi-finished products, solvents,<br />

raw materials, used oil, cleaning water containing large amounts of product, etc. This<br />

type of waste is subject to regulations and its treatment is strictly controlled.<br />

L’Oréal has set up a waste recycling programme. Dumping<br />

waste is an option only when incineration is not available.<br />

39 manufacturing sites do not dump any of their waste.<br />

ááá THE TARGET: zero landfill for all sites<br />

Transportable waste recycling coefficient<br />

n Total quantity of recycled waste<br />

in thousand of tonnes<br />

t<br />

120<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

109.6 113.8<br />

86.5<br />

94.6 98.2<br />

78.7<br />

87.3 83.3 86.3 88.9<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

Recycling percentage<br />

%<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

tx<br />

100<br />

75<br />

50<br />

25<br />

0<br />

Transportable waste recycling in <strong>2003</strong><br />

(Factories and distribution centres)<br />

Landfill: 7%<br />

Destruction: 4%<br />

Less than 11% of waste from L’Oréal is not re-used or recycled.<br />

Initiatives<br />

89% Re-used, recycled and<br />

converted waste<br />

n Recycling: 44%<br />

n Re-use: 24%<br />

n Energy value: 21%<br />

The Karlsruhe plant in Germany has put in place best practices<br />

to enable it to achieve the zero non-recycled waste target.<br />

To this end, two systems for treating aerosol waste and sludge<br />

from the purification plant have been set up.<br />

Thanks to a partnership with a company specialised in recycling,<br />

aerosols, including the leftover product and gas, are recovered<br />

or recycled in their entirety: the various components of the<br />

product are separated and reused, the gas is used for other<br />

aerosols, the metal parts are recycled and the plastics are used<br />

to generate energy.<br />

The sludge is dried and transformed into a powder which will<br />

be burned as a source of energy. The water vapour produced by<br />

the drying process will be condensed and retreated in a purification<br />

plant.


37<br />

Effluent<br />

Scope: this indicator concerns only factories. The<br />

distribution centres do not discharge any waste<br />

water other than that resulting from the normal<br />

activity of an inhabited building (sanitary waste)<br />

and are not therefore included in this indicator.<br />

In the majority of its factories, L’Oréal pre-treats waste water<br />

before sending it to local treatment plants. However, all the<br />

waste water is tested before being sent to such plants or discharged<br />

into the ecosystem.<br />

COD – Chemical Oxygen Demand (1)<br />

n Total COD waste<br />

in tonnes<br />

t<br />

9,000<br />

7,500<br />

6,000<br />

4,500<br />

3,000<br />

1,500<br />

0<br />

6,213<br />

I<br />

1999<br />

6,771<br />

I<br />

2000<br />

6,889<br />

I<br />

2001<br />

COD waste per finished product<br />

in grams<br />

7,269<br />

I<br />

2002<br />

8,019<br />

2.1 2.1<br />

2 1.9 2.1<br />

I<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

tx<br />

6<br />

5<br />

4<br />

3<br />

2<br />

1<br />

0<br />

Raw material storage areas<br />

(1) Chemical oxygen demand (COD) – the amount of oxygen needed to oxidise all the<br />

pollutants contained in the effluent – is the value commonly used to measure the properties<br />

of waste water.<br />

Initiatives<br />

The Rambouillet plant in France has a novel water treatment<br />

plant. Instead of treating the waste water using first a physico-chemical<br />

then a biological process (the usual technique), it<br />

performs only the biological (bacterial) stage, combined with<br />

an innovative filtration process.<br />

This technique has the benefit of avoiding the production of<br />

sludge, caused by the use of the reactants required for physicochemical<br />

treatment, and of increasing the total purification<br />

capacity of the plant by the same amount.


38 SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT<br />

Packaging<br />

L’Oréal is responsible for the design and production of its own<br />

packaging, although it is not manufactured in-house. L’Oréal<br />

sees its approach to packaging one of the elements that set<br />

the group’s products apart, by using packaging that is as safe<br />

as possible to use and that shows respect for the environment.<br />

The innovative approach of having in-house teams dedicated<br />

to packaging research leads to continuous improvement in<br />

terms of aesthetic appearance, intelligible information, ease of<br />

transport and storage, ergonomics and environmental impact.<br />

Permanent quality and safety checks of packaging<br />

from design to end production.<br />

Reducing the environmental impact of the packaging used by<br />

the group is governed by four basic principles:<br />

• reduction at source,<br />

• promoting recycling,<br />

• use of recycled materials,<br />

• prolonging product life.<br />

Numerous developments have been introduced, such as refills<br />

and reusable pump systems and the elimination of heavy metals<br />

from plastics dyes and printing inks.<br />

Some examples of reduction at source:<br />

• Vichy Laboratoires: information leaflet discarded in favour of<br />

information printed on the back of the box, saving 4 tonnes of<br />

paper each year,<br />

• Garnier: the weight of Synergie cleansing milk and toner bottles<br />

reduced from 26g to 20g and box replaced by film wrapping,<br />

saving 3 tonnes of cardboard per year,<br />

• L’Oréal Germany: four brands reduced the weight of shampoo<br />

bottles, resulting in a reduction in plastics consumption of<br />

200 tonnes each year,<br />

• Lancôme: smaller cardboard box for samples, making them<br />

40% lighter and saving 59 tonnes of plastic and 110 tonnes of<br />

cardboard each year.<br />

The reuse of transport packaging has been extensively developed.<br />

Raw material containers are now returned to the supplier<br />

for reuse,


39<br />

• thermoformed plastic trays for delivering glass bottles can be<br />

reused 15-25 times,<br />

• large plastic bags used by suppliers to deliver plastic bottles to<br />

the manufacturing sites are returned to the supplier when empty,<br />

• boxes for plastic bottles can be reused 5-10 times.<br />

REDUCING THE CONSUMPTION OF MATERIALS AT SOURCE:<br />

ELSÈVE<br />

Elsève (Elvive, El’Vital) shampoo bottles have been improved<br />

and now require almost 25% less material, the equivalent of<br />

saving of almost 450 tonnes of polyethylene a year. In addition<br />

to this reduction, the indirect effects on transport and<br />

recycling are also minimised.<br />

ENVIRONMENTAL RESOURCES MANAGEMENT (ERM)<br />

Scope and methodology<br />

Environmental Resources Management (ERM) was called upon to<br />

certify the Safety, Health and Environmental (SHE) data relating<br />

to L’Oréal production sites published in this report, concentrating<br />

particularly on:<br />

• the SHE data collection process;<br />

• the SHE data management process;<br />

• the SHE data and tables presented in the report.<br />

ERM has reviewed the data and data management systems. To<br />

date we have visited 14 factories out of 42 and interviewed the<br />

staff responsible for collection, management and analysis of data.<br />

Reducing the environmental impact of packaging at the manufacturing<br />

stage is a key objective. But the group is also especially<br />

interested in what happens to packaging after it has<br />

been used by the consumer. That is why it is conducting<br />

advanced research in this area, and so influencing design.<br />

L’Oréal is also taking part in various programmes – such as<br />

“Eco-emballages” in France and “Der Grüne Punkt” in Germany<br />

– to organise the recycling of consumer product packaging.<br />

Findings<br />

The review has indicated that, in the representative sample concerned,<br />

the data collection and management systems provided<br />

accurate and reliable information. Some minor inaccuracies, of<br />

little importance for the consolidated group results, were identified<br />

and quickly corrected. Progress has been made in <strong>2003</strong> to<br />

improve the precision of data and the monitoring and consolidation<br />

of key SHE indicators. The selection of indicators published<br />

is pertinent, even though the scope of the review might<br />

usefully include research and administrative activities for information<br />

involving safety.<br />

Opinion<br />

We believe that the SHE data for <strong>2003</strong>, as set out in this report<br />

in the text and diagrams, provide a fair, transparent and reasonable<br />

representation of the factories’ and distribution centres’<br />

performance in these areas.<br />

Recommendations<br />

For future improvement, however, we recommend:<br />

• increasing the consistency of accountability reporting in safety<br />

training and the validation of equipment safety,<br />

• improving the assessment of SO2 emissions,<br />

• considering reasonable ways of broadening the scope of the<br />

examination of data related to safety.<br />

Paris, March 2004.<br />

Jacques Roman, Manager, Corporate Advisory Services.


40<br />

Professor Lucia Mendonça Previato, L’Oréal-Unesco “For Women in Science” Award winner<br />

for Latin America, in the Institute for Biophysics at the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro,<br />

which she shares with her husband, Professor José Previato.<br />

Her career has been principally devoted to the study, treatment and prevention of Chagas disease.<br />

This often fatal condition, transmitted to humans mainly via an insect, is endemic in Latin America,<br />

where it is thought to affect some 16 to 18 million people.


41<br />

RESPONSIBILITY AND SOCIETY<br />

Commitment to the community<br />

L’Oréal is a socially responsible company, and seeks to support projects that<br />

contribute to the public good, through long-term sponsorships and partnerships that<br />

are consistent with its values. The most striking and symbolic example of L’Oréal’s<br />

social commitment is the international programme For Women in Science, developed<br />

in partnership with UNESCO.<br />

Our commitment to society<br />

Since L’Oréal’s business is at the centre of people’s everyday<br />

lives and well-being, the group is closely involved in the life<br />

of the communities in which its facilities are located. L’Oréal<br />

has a duty to conduct itself as a socially responsible company<br />

and seeks to support projects that are for the public good, in<br />

the form of long-term sponsorships and partnerships.<br />

These are often local initiatives focusing on specific, clearly<br />

identified issues – women and science, solidarity, education –<br />

that are consistent with the values that the group has advocated<br />

for almost a century. The aim of these initiatives is to<br />

provide a strong foothold in the economic and social life of the<br />

countries in question.<br />

The group endeavours to preserve what gives these initiatives<br />

their strength and effectiveness, namely the independence of<br />

our locally-based companies and their ability to adapt to specific<br />

cultural environments.<br />

L’Oréal-UNESCO<br />

For Women in Science<br />

Six years ago, L’Oréal decided to work alongside UNESCO, a global<br />

organisation that speaks on behalf of all the world’s cultures.<br />

By supporting an organisation that facilitates understanding of<br />

cultural identities and recognition of their diversity, L’Oréal<br />

seeks to participate in the dialogue between cultures and to<br />

work for a better understanding between men and women from<br />

different traditions.<br />

For L’Oréal, 55% of whose research teams are women, science<br />

and women stand out as the two best vehicles for progress in<br />

the global community. The group therefore chose to give support<br />

to women scientists who, through their research work,<br />

contribute to the progress of the modern world, and to highlight<br />

those women students who will carry their work forward<br />

into the future.


42 RESPONSIBILITY AND SOCIETY<br />

Rewarding talent, and encouraging<br />

women to follow their vocation –<br />

an international partnership<br />

Following the first Awards in 1998, L’Oréal and UNESCO made a<br />

commitment, in September 1999, “through agreed and concerted<br />

cooperation, to set up joint projects to improve the situation<br />

of women internationally, and in particular to promote<br />

their scientific work.” (Extract from the Partnership Agreement<br />

signed by L’Oréal and UNESCO).<br />

The For Women in Science programme<br />

has three parts<br />

The L’Oréal-UNESCO Awards<br />

Each year, the L’Oréal-UNESCO Awards go to five outstanding<br />

scientists, representing all continents, for their contribution to<br />

the advancement of science in areas not related to the group’s<br />

activities. With the <strong>2003</strong> Awards, 26 scientists have received<br />

this distinction.<br />

The L’Oréal-UNESCO Awards are presented in alternate years to<br />

women engaged in scientific research in the Life Sciences and<br />

in Material Sciences.<br />

The two juries for the L’Oréal-UNESCO Awards are made up of<br />

eminent scientists from twenty countries and are chaired by a<br />

Nobel prizewinner. For the Life Sciences, they are Professor<br />

Christian de Duve, winner of the 1974 Nobel Prize in Medicine<br />

and Founding President of the L’Oréal-UNESCO Awards, and<br />

Professor Günter Blobel, winner of the 1999 Nobel Prize in<br />

Medicine. For Material Sciences: Professor Pierre-Gilles de<br />

Gennes, winner of the 1991 Nobel Prize in Physics.<br />

The UNESCO-L’Oréal Fellowships<br />

Each year, the UNESCO-L’Oréal Fellowships help 15 young<br />

women scientists, involved in promising, exemplary projects,<br />

to pursue their research in laboratories throughout the world.<br />

By sponsoring these young scientists, the programme aims to<br />

increase the role of women working in scientific disciplines.<br />

Forty-five young scientists from forty countries, including<br />

South Africa, Morocco, New Zealand, Bangladesh, Peru,<br />

Albania, Congo, Nigeria, Azerbaijan and China have received<br />

recognition since the UNESCO-L’Oréal Fellowships were set up.<br />

National Initiatives<br />

The L’Oréal-UNESCO partnership reaches many different countries<br />

through national programmes in support of women scientists,<br />

in collaboration with UNESCO’s national commissions.<br />

• A “Girls’ Mentorship Program” has been launched in Canada<br />

with Actua, a non-profit organisation dedicated to increasing<br />

the scientific and technical literacy of young Canadians of both<br />

sexes. This programme offers “Mentor Fellowships” to young<br />

women research scientists every year.<br />

• National Fellowships designed to promote young women scientists,<br />

as in Poland where, for the second year running, five<br />

Fellowships have been awarded with the support of UNESCO’s<br />

Polish National Commission.<br />

• In Spain, L’Oréal has sponsored the publication of a book,<br />

compiled under the direction of Margarita Salas, President of<br />

the Spanish Institute and winner of the L’Oréal-UNESCO Award<br />

in 2000. The book, entitled “Nosotras Biocientíficas Españolas”,<br />

profiles over 250 Spanish women scientists.<br />

• In Germany, the ministry of Education and Science, with<br />

L’Oréal’s support, has set up a series of some twenty seminars<br />

entitled “Kick-off for your career”, aimed at helping young<br />

scientists studying in the country’s top universities in their<br />

studies and careers.<br />

• Many other initiatives have been launched, including in the<br />

Republic of Korea, Finland, Romania, the UK and Turkey.<br />

All the national initiatives, taken in a large number of countries,<br />

help to improve the position of women in science all over<br />

the world.


43<br />

Philippa Marrack Christine Petit Jennifer Thomson Nancy Ip<br />

A partnership with<br />

international influence<br />

“For Women in Science” highlights work whose quality helps to<br />

change the perception, particularly among scientists, of the<br />

role of women in furthering knowledge, and gives support to<br />

young women from all over the world who wish to pursue a<br />

career in the sciences.<br />

The quality of the relationship forged with UNESCO and its<br />

representatives all over the world during the past six years has<br />

led L’Oréal to carry this collaboration further. It has drawn<br />

inspiration from the ideas and projects that have emerged in<br />

this global environment to increase its own understanding of<br />

global cultural issues and of less well-known identities.<br />

Philippa Marrack, winner of the Award for North America,<br />

is known for her work on T cells, which help the body to fight<br />

disease.<br />

Christine Petit won the Award for Europe, in recognition of<br />

her work on the molecular and cellular bases of deafness and<br />

other hereditary sensory defects in human beings.<br />

Jennifer Thomson, winner of the award for Africa, has<br />

devoted much of her research career to the development of<br />

transgenic plants that are resistant to viral infections,<br />

drought and other risks.<br />

ááá L’Oréal’s initiatives are a way of asserting<br />

the group’s social responsibility. But, sponsorship<br />

and partnership initiatives must on no account<br />

displace the first priority of any company,<br />

that of behaving responsibly in its “role”<br />

as a citizen.<br />

Nancy Ip, a Chinese neurobiologist, won the Award for the<br />

Asia-Pacific region. Her studies have led to the identification<br />

of neurotrophic factors as potential pharmaceutical agents<br />

in the treatment of neurodegenerative disorders, such as<br />

Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s diseases.


44<br />

Statutory Auditor’s statement on certain information relating to corporate<br />

affairs and R&D contained in the <strong>2003</strong> <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> <strong>Report</strong><br />

As Statutory Auditor for the L’Oréal Group and in accordance with the request made of me, I undertook the work described below<br />

relating to the procedures for collecting and consolidating certain information published in the present report and identified by<br />

an asterisk (*). Since this is the first year these measures have been in force, neither the implementation of the procedures in<br />

the subsidiaries nor the information itself came within the scope of my remit. General Management was responsible for preparing<br />

the information. It is my duty to inform you of the results of my review.<br />

Nature and extent of the review<br />

I carried out the following tasks:<br />

• For each set of information reviewed: meeting with the various parties listed below, who are responsible for the organisation<br />

of reporting and data consolidation at group level:<br />

· for corporate information: Group Department of HR Information Systems, Apprenticeship and Training Department, Continuing<br />

Education Department, Department of International Corporate Relations, International Mobility Department, International<br />

Recruitment Department, General Purchasing Department;<br />

· for R&D information, within the Research and <strong>Development</strong> Department: Management Control Department, International<br />

Department of Central Functions, International Industrial Property Department, International Raw Materials Department.<br />

• Working with these various parties and on the basis of interviews and documentary evidence (instructions sent to subsidiaries,<br />

subsidiary reporting, group consolidation), we ascertained:<br />

· that formalised and precise instructions regarding the definitions of the data to be collected and the methods of calculation<br />

have been drawn up;<br />

· that reporting and consolidation procedures are in place;<br />

· that the information published is consistent with the area to be covered;<br />

· on the basis of surveys, that the data generated by the reporting systems have been duly taken into account in the consolidation;<br />

· that the general conditions governing purchasing, production, promotional items and POS advertising drawn up at Head Office<br />

contain clauses forbidding the employment of young people under 16 years of age.<br />

In carrying out this review, I was assisted by experts in the <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> Department at PricewaterhouseCoopers.<br />

This review was not intended, and therefore does not enable me, to draw any conclusions expressing moderate (1) or reasonable (1)<br />

confidence in the information reviewed.<br />

Observations<br />

My investigations lead me to make the following observations:<br />

• With regard to the information reviewed, the L’Oréal group has put in place formalised and precise reporting and consolidation<br />

procedures.<br />

• A rigorous methodology has been used in drawing up these procedures.<br />

• Their implementation at Head Office is based on a clearly structured organisation and well-defined responsibilities.<br />

Paris, 5 March 2004<br />

Pierre Coll, Partner<br />

(1) The Statutory Auditor’s reports on the <strong>Sustainable</strong> <strong>Development</strong> <strong>Report</strong>s include a conclusion expressing moderate or reasonable confidence (the latter being the higher level)<br />

in the information and/or procedures. Given the limitations of the Statutory Auditor’s review, the purpose of the declaration reproduced above was intended solely to describe our<br />

observations.


Photographs: Craig McDean (cover), Jillian Edelstein<br />

(portrait of Mr Owen-Jones); Research and <strong>Development</strong>:<br />

Patrick Messina; Social and Human Affairs: Amid Fadavi,<br />

Jean-Jacques Pallot, David Arrenz, Richard Gardette,<br />

Richard Pak, Patrick Messina, Raphaël Trapet; Responsibility<br />

and Society: Micheline Pelletier / Gamma; X.<br />

Design and production<br />

133, avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris.


http://www.loreal.com<br />

Incorporated in France as a “Société Anonyme”<br />

with registered capital of €135,212,432<br />

632 012 100 R.C.S. Paris<br />

Headquarters:<br />

41, rue Martre<br />

92117 Clichy - France<br />

Tel.: +33 1 47 56 70 00<br />

Fax : +33 1 47 56 80 02<br />

Registered Office:<br />

14, rue Royale<br />

75008 Paris - France

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