The Rectory, Greenford Magna - The Parish of Greenford Magna

The Rectory, Greenford Magna
The house has stood here for 127 years, and before that, a Tudor building housed
the parish priest. The first rector to live in this house was Arthur Beard, (1874-1890)
and I am the 12th rector to bring his life, family and work under this roof.
The house is full of noises, some of which may be explained easily, some of which
can’t be! On many occasions Marion has been convinced that I have opened the
front door and come home but when she calls “hello” to me, nobody is there. Bill
McLaughlin once told me that a house should retain a sense of mystery for a child up
to about the age of 11. This one keeps on and on!
From the Rectory living room there is an uninterrupted view of the churches and it is
strangely moving to look out from the same vantage point as so many priests before
me, admiring the old village church and latterly, the splendid lines of the New Church.
As you wander round, you see that the detail of the woodwork was designed to
reflect that this is not just a Rectory, but a Holy Cross Rectory. The sign of the cross
is found in unexpected places: in the window of the main door, the studs on the inner
door, in the hand rail on the staircase.
Living in this house may be expensive and awkward, but it is a pleasure, a great
pleasure, and good to share it with visitors and parishioners on their church business.
At a glance you see that this house reflects the high social position of the Rector in
mid-Victorian times. Times have changed and in a way, living in this house now feels
like living under false pretences. On the other hand, the house and garden represent
a community resource which reflects how the Church of England has changed and
become not the preserve of the rich but an open community of the disciples of Jesus
Christ.
1

Holy Cross Church, Greenford
The Parish Church of the Holy Cross and the Holy Cross New Church represent
something bright and beautiful of our Christian heritage. Built in dark days, they shine
with optimism and confidence in God. The New Church in particular speaks of this
faith in God’s goodness and love. At war with a frightening and seemingly invincible
enemy, facing death and destruction on a daily basis and with a very uncertain
future, Greenford people, led by Father Donald Harris, raised the money and built
this magnificent Church which still today holds the community together for both our
worship of God and many aspects of our social life because the new Church is
officially designated a dual-purpose building and so may become our Church hall
whenever we wish.
In our own time, we keep the faith. We try to maintain and improve the buildings and
we use them for the good of local people as well as for the worship of God who still
inspires us. I wish more ordinary Greenford people could appreciate what gems are
here for them, gifted from our past and ready for our present.
2

Tim and Eva Hanlon, 73 Oldfield Lane South
I suppose Tim and Eva are the nearest thing to neighbours that we at the Rectory
have got! They have lived at 73 Oldfield Lane for forty eight years and they were
among some of the first people I met in 1982. Tim is well known for his horticultural
skills which keep his front garden in such special trim!
Eva and Tim told me that soon after their arrival, Mr Blount, the revered Head Master
of Betham School came across the lane from Betham House to visit them and to
show them a dilapidated sign close to their house marking what had once been a
rural footpath from Greenford to St. Mary’s Church, Northolt. This path must have
threaded its way inconspicuously through the fields that spread themselves between
the churches in times past.
I imagine people from Paddington and Kensal Green coming here on their bicycles
with their picnics and spending the afternoon exploring the quiet footpaths and
delighting in their visits to the old country churches!
3

75a Oldfield Lane South
Strictly speaking, the self-contained maisonette, which was created in the 1960’s out
of the former servants’ quarters, is still a part of the rectory rather than a separate
house. The inevitable noises made by living are equally audible on either side of the
partition between the two sections. In this sense, the residents of 75a are not so
much neighbours as living under one roof.
Servants! Can you believe it? Father Harris (rector 1936-1945) once told me that in
1936 he employed a housekeeper, cook and gardener and they lived in the back
section of the rectory which is now 75a. Along with the usual complement of 5 or 6
curates resident in the Rectory, this must have made this house one of the busiest
and possibly most cluttered in the parish.
At this time, the parish of Greenford Magna was the most populace parish in the
country and a magnet to keen and highly educated young clergy. Can you imagine
the learned and optimistic topics of conversation in the rectory rooms during this
period, before the second world war took its toll on the young people of this country?
4

The Greenford Road Medical Centre
Well, I still think of it as Doctor Boxer’s Surgery! It has dramatically changed over the
past 20 years. I remember going to my first consultation in 1982 and sitting in a tiny
consulting room which was, quite simply, the back room of a typical Greenford semi
decorated with a few medical bits and bobs. The temperature was not very high in
winter and Doctor Boxer was kept warm by an old smelly and unguarded gas fire!
It felt comfortable, somehow, rather like being at home.
Today’s more clinical environment is comforting in other ways, of course! Doctor
Moore and his excellent colleagues are to be congratulated for bringing the house
into the modern medical era!
Emilie Burton was employed by the Doctors as a receptionist and the desk was a
half-stable door leading into the kitchen area. In those days, with such traditionalists
as Doctor Boxer and Doctor Shrago, there was no possibility of the Rector waiting to
see a Doctor. The staff had instructions that if Father Richardson came through the
door, he was to be ushered in at the next opportunity rather than wait in the waiting
room. Actually, I found that rather more embarrassing than waiting, but I took it as a
compliment at any rate!
5

Fairlight Court
What can one say?
I suppose, if you can’t say anything nice, its probably better not to say anything at
all?
However!
Fairlight Court is not a pretty sight and I feel slightly responsible (on behalf of the
official Church of England) because after all, this was the Rectory paddocks, an
integral part of Benefice land, and perhaps someone should have checked what was
to be built there before agreeing to the sale of the land?
And there is still doubt and potential dispute about who owns what bits of land round
the back. It seems that the idea had been to build two such blocks. On second
thoughts, perhaps I should be counting my blessings, not moaning?
Some people still remember attending Scout and church events on the Rectory
paddocks and the romance of the word paddocks represents something lost in
Greenford life, lost for good, but oh, so sadly.
I have a dream that one day, Fairlight Court will be pulled down and the land restored
to green. I apologise to the residents of Fairlight Court, who carry no blame for its
appearance, but every time I pass it by, I hope that my dream comes true.
7

Betham House
Rather like the Rectory, Betham House along Oldfield Lane is hidden away
somewhat by a brick perimeter wall. Despite this, the house still holds a very special
place in Greenford’s history and its importance should never be overlooked.
When I first arrived in 1982, the Governors of the Betham School were still paying
back a sizeable loan from the London Diocesan Board for Schools. The loan,
together with the proceeds from the sale of Betham House in 1975, was used to
purchase Coston School for Boys building from the London Borough of Ealing in
order to open up the new Betham Church of England Middle school.
So yes, it is true, Betham House was still in the possession of the Betham Trustees
as late as 1975. Whilst I see the advantages of selling the House to raise money for
a Middle school, and also ridding the Trustees of its maintenance costs, it may be
seen, with the benefit of hindsight, that the sale of the House was not really the best
option. What a resource for the School and Community this House might have
become? Former Head Colin Neville wanted the Trustees to buy it back for use as a
Head Teacher’s House!
Now occupied as three separate dwellings, its seminal place in Greenford life still
shines from Betham House but it could have been a very special place indeed for
Greenford.
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The Litten
Or, more pedantically, The Litten Tree Public House. Here is an excellent example of
how to ruin an old farm building. The original house was small but representative of
Greenford’s past. The development of its use as a Public House has ended in the
mess we see today.
Inside, it is all cacophony and unavoidable screens of various shapes and sizes.
Outside it is more like a playground than a garden. Although popular at the moment,
bringing children into the remit of drinking is a questionable project.
After all, goodness me, we are not French, are we!
What would my father say about this? In his generation, the pub was where the men
went to spend time away from the wife and kids. Nowadays, the women not only go
down the pub as well, but take the brats along with them!
With the traffic congestion from people trying to gain access to the car park, the
queuing minicabs, the noise and the general sense of rowdiness which spreads out
into the surrounding streets as the evening progresses, The Litten Tree is not
Greenford’s most attractive venue, despite the efforts of successive Managers to
improve the climate.
9

Patel’s Papershop
Ashok Patel and his wife and family continue to run the shop, despite telling me
some ten years ago that he was sure the business couldn’t survive!
Ashok is an amiable person and he works hard to make his living with very early
starts to the day to get the papers out for the readers. Children are always in his shop
on errands for sweets and comics. It was good to have his twin daughters at Edward
Betham School for part of their Primary school careers.
Local newsagents seem doomed to failure as more and more people buy their daily
papers at the Supermarkets. This is the story of Greenford in a nut-shell!
However, I am also to blame because we stopped buying our milk from a roundsman
some time ago. The problem was that the milk arrived later and later in the day and
so often stayed on the doorstep for many hours until we returned home in the
evening. Warm milk, but none for breakfast! The worst of both worlds.
10

Shree Jalaram Mandir
When the Greenford Synagogue closed in January, 2000, the building was up for
sale and many people wondered what would happen to it. There were fears that the
building might end up in the hands of an intolerant campaigning religious group of
one complexion or another.
During the course of 2000, the building was stripped of its Jewish artefacts, including
the windows with symbols of the faith, and opened in December as a Hindu temple.
If you visit, you will see that it has now been re-fitted with all the appurtenances you
would expect, including a full range of Deities.
The visual contrast to the Synagogue interior could not be much greater!
I have happy memories of the Synagogue and remember with pleasure hearing
Abraham Banks singing the Hebrew liturgy with his fine tenor voice.
I have visited the Mandir twice and although I have attempted to contact the leaders,
this has so far not resulted in any meaningful contact. I think that we must try and
establish some friendly links with this community so that we may be good neighbours
in times which are difficult for many faith communities.
As Greenford changes, the Christian community should remember that hospitality is
part of our faith commitment and in the end, we may all learn from each other if we
are prepared to listen and accept differences.
11

Avon Ruby
Pictured are Jenny, Gaye and Nova outside their office on Ferrymead Gardens.
Avon Ruby are a local firm providing a wide range of building services, including a 24
hour emergency service, to the people of Greenford and its environs. The firm started
as a small family affair with Gaye’s father working from home and its growth made a
move to dedicated premises vital to its development. Sited since 1991 in the old
Estate Office where residents of Greenford past came to pay their rent, Avon Ruby is
an undoubted Greenford success story.
Before they moved out of Greenford, Jenny and Gaye were Holy Cross regulars
along with Gaye’s son Grant and daughter Nova. I still miss them!
Gaye and Jenny are the heart of the office and their determination and hard work
have made the difference for the company, bringing it through some very hard times
in the building trade. If you visit the office, you will be impressed with the sense of fun
which pervades the atmosphere. Here is a group of people who take much pleasure
in doing their work well.
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The Legion
Or, as the late Lord Molloy delighted to intone in his mellifluous Welsh voice, The
Greenford Branch of the Royal British Legion.
There are two faces to the Legion: the Branch and the Club. The Club is a drinking
club and a place for people to meet friends and enjoy the company of like-minded
people. The Branch is a serious group of people who do their best to serve the needs
of many victims of war, both soldiers and widows. Although not very much noticed,
the support offered by Branch volunteers is a significant contribution to the social
well-being of many people in Greenford and the area.
It is, of course, possible to enjoy the Club and be a hard-working Branch member!
As Honorary Chaplain to the Branch, I frequently officiate at funerals of members and
the Union Standard often flies at half-mast, as it does in the picture. As time goes by,
the ageing process makes a visible impact on the membership, but they all retain a
sense of pride and achievement in particular at how Britain stood firm against Hitler’s
fascism. It was ordinary men and women, like the people who come to the club
house, who took the defence of liberty seriously enough to risk their life and limbs.
13

Greenford Community Centre
Once an imposing 18th century house and home to rich families, the Community
Centre is now a veritable hive of activity of many kinds, ranging from dog-handling to
English classes for refugees. Now, that is progress for you!
Under the leadership of Claire Maddison and a forward-looking Management
Committee, the Centre has become a beacon of good practice. Claire has never sat
on her achievements. She has found more and more ways to serve the changing
needs of Greenford’s people, both those with organisational skills and a voice of their
own, and those without.
At the turn of the 19th century, the house was occupied by the Roy family. A stained
glass window on the north side of the Old Church commemorates a family member
and Robert Roy’s memorial is a large Celtic cross in the churchyard.
Some of the interiors retain a sense of the gracious past and if you have never had a
tour, go and ask Claire.
14

Edward Betham School
Infant Department
I have chosen two photographs of the school because I can’t imagine my life at Holy
Cross Church without it. I love being there and mixing with the staff and children.
Edward Betham was Rector of Greenford Magna from 1769-1782. He was, by any
standards, a rich man but he was not married and had no children as heirs. As his
life came to an end, he made three major decisions. First he commissioned a life-size
statue of King Henry VI, the founder of Eton College and King’s College, Cambridge.
The statue stands today in the narthex of the Chapel at Eton. Then he donated
money to endow the Cambridge Horticultural Garden. Most significantly for us, he
endowed a school in Greenford to provide boys and girls with a free education.
Its strange to think that the children who entered the school as tiny 5 year olds in
1982 are now 25 years old. I have known four Head Teachers and many staff. Mrs
Jean Vaughan was the Head of the former First School with Mrs Lesley-Jane Spector
as Head of the Middle School. Colin Neville (on a second-time-around at Betham)
was appointed as the first Head of the Edward Betham Primary School and currently,
Mrs Maralyn Kehely is the current expert pedagogist at the helm.
I feel in awe of the number of children who, during the course of the past 222 years.
have learned to read, count, write poetry and stories, sing songs, make friends, gain
a knowledge of history and science as well as learning about God.
We really should be thankful for this and not take it for granted.
15

Edward Betham School
Junior Department
I have chosen two photographs of the school because I can’t imagine my life at Holy
Cross Church without it. I love being there and mixing with the staff and children.
Relationships between school and church should always be a strong feature of
parish life. So much mutual benefit is derived from close working together. Can you
imagine how cosy it must have been when the Head Teacher was also one of the
Churchwardens and the Church organist, and a parent at the school!
The buildings which comprise the school today are an example of higgledy-piggledy
unplanned development, starting with the original school in 1780, the Clock school of
1878, a Village Hall-cum-School-Hall or two from the 1920’s, more additional
buildings of various kinds, including bomb-shelters round the back of the Juniors from
war time, and more recently, the acquisition of the Junior department building in
1975, new Infant classrooms in 1995 and an ICT room in 2001. Then there is a hut
in the Junior playground, all of which makes the whole place look a mess.
However, its what goes on inside that really counts!
The playgrounds at the school are really inadequate to the needs of the children.
Perhaps what we should do is raze the whole site to the ground, including Coston
School, and then build two new schools, modern schools, ready and equipped for a
modern education.
Thankfully, there is no chance of another war doing the demolition job for us!
16

Coston School
I have always been a friend of Coston School, and from 1986-1997, I chaired the
Governing Body simultaneously with that of Edward Betham School. The atmosphere
at Coston is quite different to that at Betham, but both schools have excellent
teachers and create the climate for a happy staff and creative, productive children.
Coston School has had a mixed history, being at times First and Middle Schools, a
High School for Girls and now a Primary with a thriving Nursery Class. Long-standing
Holy Crosser, Marjorie Knott, who died in 1994, was once a Deputy Head of the Girls’
school.
I love taking Assembly at Coston. Normally it is a whole-school job, with everyone
from the Reception through to Year 6 cramming in the hall. They sing heartily and
respond well to stimulation from poems, art and music. Although a school of very
mixed religious affiliations, I never feel awkward about praying to God with the
children, and they are always keen with the Amen at the end!
The current Head is Miss Hope, which is a good name for a teacher! Before her
expert work came Heads Roger Parker, Eve Bass, and Sue Johnson who sadly died
of cancer before her time.
I hope that Holy Cross Church will always keep a close relationship with Coston
School and that the Church will be able to find ways of supporting education.
17

The A40
One of the constant features of life in Greenford during the past 20 years has been
the rattle and drone of vehicles mounting the flyover as the A40 rises above the
Greenford roundabout. As the great pantechnicons grind along, their tyres bump on
the joins between the sections of the road and the resulting thud thud still wakes me
up at all times of the night. Even at 3am, the road is noisy from speeding vehicles.
In the house, the road is still audible, partly because we have no double-glazing, but
it is bearable. What really hurts is that the wonderful rectory garden is more or less
ruined by the noise. Two people wanting a conversation need to shout at each other
to make themselves heard over the din.
The A40 is a huge artery, with traffic flowing in and out of London at all hours of the
day and night. In the morning, the flow easterly is frequently grid-locked and then, as
evening starts, the westerly direction is at a stand-still. Why do they do it? How can
they stand it?
It is still just possible to use the A40 for swift travel, but you need to start before 7am
or wait until after 11am when going into London. However, sudden accidents or
planned but un-notified road maintenance schemes can reduce the flow to 3 mph in
an instant, and this is very frustrating for everyone.
I often reflect on what the road will be like when the world’s oil resources eventually
run out! The sound of horses’ hooves is also very disturbing, as I remember from my
childhood. (The Rag and Bone Man, the Coal Man.)
At least, perhaps we can then have the rectory paddocks back?
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Greenford Library
A library is a place of safety and at the heart of a community. It represents something
of the best in our cultural development. Books and the pursuit of knowledge were
once hidden away in monasteries and inaccessible because of general illiteracy.
Now, long-established and free to all, the Public Library system should be cherished
and honoured.
It is an extraordinary concept. Here, on the shelves and in the stacks, a whole world
of information, literature, art, architecture, philosophy, ideas, history, theatre and
music is open to the enquirer.
I suppose that the library is a precursor of the modern internet. But whilst it is
possible to find most things you need to know on the internet, in the library you can
also have a conversation with a friendly librarian, safely mix with and meet all sorts of
people, and find something that is unique because it is so local.
It is good to know that Holy Crossers and authors Peter and Frances Hounsell are
such stalwarts of Ealing’s library service, in their different ways. Education was
always a godly activity.
19

Greenford Police Station
The familiar and re-assuring blue lamp stand is still there, but policing has altered
dramatically over the past few years. It feels more distant, or is it just more
professional?
Have you visited the Police Station recently? Nowadays, it is just as hard for the
innocent to get into a Police Station as it is for the guilty to get out!
A police force can so easily become a separated section of the community, seen as
“them” by the rest of us. That is a disaster. Policing requires expertise, confidentiality
and specialist sections, of course, but in the end, what people want from the police is
an officer who is also a human being, able to understand and to admit mistakes.
We want a police force which has accountability so that it will also have the consent
of the majority to protect the public and to detect the crimes which so damage our
community life. So a police station should be open and friendly, just as the local
police force should be drawn from the local community and known to us by name.
It is still good to see PC Claridge walking through the streets of Greenford, some
years after his retirement.
20

The Parish of Greenford Magna
Greenford Eye
Reflections of Greenford life
in photographs and words
Twenty photographs by
Toby Vandevelde
and words by
Neil Richardson
From Saturday 14th September until Sunday 22nd September, 2002,
Holy Cross Church in Greenford will house a photographic exhibition which is a
reflection on life in Greenford since 1982 when Neil and Marion Richardson brought
their children Toby, Ben and Hannah to live in The Rectory as Neil started his work
as Rector of Greenford Magna.
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Neil Richardson has been Rector of Greenford Magna since 1982 and he is a
Prebendary of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.
Toby Vandevelde is Neil’s oldest son and currently working for the Uxbridge
Gazette as a press photographer.
The photographs were taken during 2002 using a Canon A1 camera and with a
Canon 50mm and a Canon 24-70mm lens.
For photographic commissions, please phone Toby on 07879 020490
The Photographs:
The Rectory, Greenford Magna
Holy Cross Church, Greenford
Tim and Eva Hanlon, 73 Oldfield Lane South
75a Oldfield Lane South
Greenford Road Medical Centre
The Bridge Hotel
Fairlight Court
Betham House
The Litten
Patel’s Papershop
Shree Jalaram Mandir
Avon Ruby
The Legion
Greenford Community Centre
Edward Betham School Infant Dept.
Edward Betham School Junior Dept.
Coston School
The A40
Greenford Library
Greenford Police Station
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