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What's a Martinez? - Tales of the Cocktail

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<strong>What's</strong> a <strong>Martinez</strong><br />

March 7, 2012 - 7:39pm | by Daniel Priseman<br />

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Chris Doig, Hatvani Zília and 69 o<strong>the</strong>rs like this.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> it, <strong>the</strong> question <strong>of</strong> ‘what’s a <strong>Martinez</strong>’ seems pretty selfexplanatory;<br />

after all, you can walk into any good bar, order one and be<br />

pretty confident about what you’ll get in your glass. The chances are you’ll<br />

get a lot <strong>of</strong> sweet vermouth, a little bit <strong>of</strong> gin, a splash <strong>of</strong> maraschino and<br />

a dash or two <strong>of</strong> bitters. Occasionally <strong>the</strong>re might be a bit more gin and a<br />

little less vermouth, or you might get Boker’s bitters or orange bitters;<br />

you might even get a splash <strong>of</strong> curacao instead <strong>of</strong> maraschino, but all in<br />

all you’re likely to receive a sweet vermouth and gin cocktail, with a<br />

splash <strong>of</strong> liqueur and a dose <strong>of</strong> bitters.<br />

Links<br />

bar tools (1)<br />

blogs (6)<br />

brands we like: bourbon<br />

(2)<br />

brands we like: cachaca<br />

(1)<br />

brands we like: gin (2)<br />

Over <strong>the</strong> years <strong>the</strong>re has been much debate about <strong>the</strong> intertwined history<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail and <strong>the</strong> Martini, with speculation about whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> might be <strong>the</strong> forefa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Martini or, if in fact <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

once <strong>the</strong> same drink, known by similar names but got confused over <strong>the</strong><br />

years. The truth is we’re never likely to know, but somewhere along <strong>the</strong><br />

way <strong>the</strong> two drinks have diverged to become completely different<br />

cocktails. It’s now accepted that <strong>the</strong> Martini is made with dry vermouth<br />

and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> with sweet, <strong>the</strong> former has no liqueur added but <strong>the</strong><br />

latter is usually enriched with a barspoon <strong>of</strong> maraschino. The Martini is<br />

heavy on gin, with vermouth playing a supporting role, whereas <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> is a vermouth-led cocktail. In o<strong>the</strong>r words <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

only connected in as much as that <strong>the</strong>y are in <strong>the</strong> broad family <strong>of</strong> gin and vermouth based drinks.<br />

So when I recently made a drink using <strong>the</strong> same ingredients as a modern <strong>Martinez</strong>, but in vastly different proportions, and<br />

posted <strong>the</strong> recipe on Twitter, I was shocked to hear people calling it a <strong>Martinez</strong>. After all, three parts gin to one part sweet<br />

vermouth makes a completely different cocktail, in fact it was closer in pr<strong>of</strong>ile to a Gin and It. An online discussion quickly<br />

ensued about what people consider a <strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail to be and what <strong>the</strong> original spec was; it soon became clear that this is a<br />

cocktail with a hazy past, and even a somewhat muddled present.<br />

Inspired by my previous blog about <strong>the</strong> Corpse Reviver, I thought that with a little help I might be able to unravel <strong>the</strong> past <strong>of</strong><br />

this delicious, but misunderstood drink. I immediately posted some questions on Facebook and Twitter and started to put<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r a timeline for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail. Once again Adam Elmegirab and Craig Harper came to my aid contributinging<br />

various recipes for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> in <strong>the</strong> hopes <strong>of</strong> understanding how we have arrived at <strong>the</strong> modern version we know today.<br />

Along <strong>the</strong> way our research expanded into <strong>the</strong> entire family <strong>of</strong> gin, vermouth and bitters based cocktails, but that’s a subject for<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r time. In fact Adam is already well on his way to amassing a broad history <strong>of</strong> this family <strong>of</strong> drinks.<br />

WHY SO MUCH CONFUSION<br />

It seems clear from <strong>the</strong> modern viewpoint that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail is two parts sweet vermouth to one part gin, with a splash<br />

<strong>of</strong> maraschino and a dash <strong>of</strong> bitters. In fact when I asked bartenders what <strong>the</strong>ir standard recipe is for this drink, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m said<br />

two to one ratios in favour <strong>of</strong> sweet vermouth, and almost everyone said maraschino and ei<strong>the</strong>r Boker’s or orange bitters. So if<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is a reasonably standard modern recipe, <strong>the</strong>n why am I implying that <strong>the</strong>re is some confusion as to <strong>the</strong> recipe for <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> It comes down to two things: vermouth choice and ratios.<br />

You see if you refer to cocktail books from <strong>the</strong> 1930s and 40s most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m actually call for dry vermouth instead <strong>of</strong> sweet, in<br />

fact <strong>the</strong> first time I made myself a <strong>Martinez</strong> I followed <strong>the</strong> recipe from <strong>the</strong> Savoy <strong>Cocktail</strong> Book, which calls for dry. So to me<br />

this has always been a drink that can be served both ways, sweet and dry, which leaves <strong>the</strong> drink open to interpretation<br />

depending on where you first read <strong>the</strong> recipe. In addition, I’ve seen recipes calling for equal parts gin and vermouth, so even<br />

<strong>the</strong> ratio can be called into question.<br />

This got me wondering about when <strong>the</strong> recipe changed from sweet to dry, and <strong>the</strong>n back again to sweet. The trouble, I soon<br />

realised from chatting with Adam and Craig, is that <strong>the</strong>re are surprisingly few recipes for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> in any early cocktail<br />

books. In fact as Craig pointed out, you almost never see <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> and <strong>the</strong> Martini in <strong>the</strong> same book, so is it possible <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are <strong>the</strong> same drink Was <strong>the</strong> name and <strong>the</strong> recipe muddled in <strong>the</strong> early years <strong>of</strong> its invention, leaving us with two cocktails<br />

where originally <strong>the</strong>re was just one


ZIM ZAM ZIMMY<br />

WHAT'S IN A NAME<br />

The first recipe I have been able to find for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail is from 1884, with<br />

only a handful <strong>of</strong> fur<strong>the</strong>r recipes over <strong>the</strong> following two decades. Likewise <strong>the</strong> Martini<br />

makes an appearance only a couple <strong>of</strong> years after <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong>, and has its own<br />

handful <strong>of</strong> recipes in <strong>the</strong> late 1800s. To make it even more confusing <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

drinks from <strong>the</strong> same era such as <strong>the</strong> Martine and Marguerite that also combine gin,<br />

vermouth and bitters. So is this just a classic case <strong>of</strong> Chinese whispers, with a drink<br />

being created and named, and <strong>the</strong>n being passed on from bar to bar and<br />

slowly changing<br />

There are <strong>of</strong> course stories about where <strong>the</strong> name came from; some claiming it for<br />

<strong>the</strong> town <strong>of</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> in California, o<strong>the</strong>rs saying it was made for a customer who<br />

used to travel to <strong>the</strong> town. Still o<strong>the</strong>rs claim that <strong>the</strong> Martini actually came first and<br />

that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> was just ano<strong>the</strong>r name for <strong>the</strong> same drink. Then again <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

stories <strong>of</strong> a judge from New York whose name was Martine, so some believe this to<br />

be an east coast creation and nothing whatsoever to do with <strong>the</strong> town in California.<br />

Truth be told we’re unlikely to ever know <strong>the</strong> origins <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> name.<br />

Many claim that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> was created in <strong>the</strong> 1860s and that <strong>the</strong> Martini came<br />

into being in <strong>the</strong> 1870s, but this is still hard to prove, so for me it seems sensible to<br />

start with recipes that have been recorded in cocktail books. But if all we have are a handful scattered through a few<br />

publications over <strong>the</strong> years, <strong>the</strong>n what’s <strong>the</strong> truth about this drink Has it always been <strong>the</strong> sweet vermouth based drink we<br />

know today Well let’s see if we can make some sense <strong>of</strong> it simply by tracking it through <strong>the</strong> years.<br />

THE EARLY DAYS OF THE MARTINEZ<br />

As I mentioned earlier, <strong>the</strong> first recipe for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> that I’ve found (and I’d<br />

love to hear from anyone who knows <strong>of</strong> an earlier one, or a version I’ve missed<br />

from <strong>the</strong> timeline below) is from O H Byron in 1884. Unfortunately all he has to<br />

say on <strong>the</strong> subject is this:<br />

“ Same as Manhattan, only you substitute gin for whisky.”<br />

Now this wouldn’t be a problem if he had been considerate enough to list only<br />

one recipe for <strong>the</strong> Manhattan. There were unfortunately two Manhattan recipes<br />

listed directly above <strong>the</strong> entry for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong>, one with sweet vermouth one<br />

with dry (for full recipes see <strong>the</strong> timeline fur<strong>the</strong>r down <strong>the</strong> page). So maybe, as<br />

with many vermouth and spirit cocktails <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> was originally a drink that<br />

could be ordered sweet or dry The problem with this <strong>the</strong>ory is that we never see<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> listed in books with <strong>the</strong> two styles <strong>of</strong>fered, as we do with <strong>the</strong> Martini<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Manhattan. Often <strong>the</strong>se drinks are <strong>of</strong>fered, for example, as <strong>the</strong> Dry<br />

Martini or <strong>the</strong> Sweet Martini with distinct recipes. Nowhere have I found <strong>the</strong> same<br />

for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong>. Still it’s a thought…<br />

The next recipe that we find in print is from <strong>the</strong> 1887 revised edition <strong>of</strong> Jerry<br />

Thomas’ Bon Vivants Companion, which was published two years after his death. The recipe calls for one part Old Tom Gin to<br />

two parts ‘vermouth’. We know from records that most vermouth in <strong>the</strong> US at this time was Italian (sweet) vermouth, and it’s<br />

taken for granted that unless French vermouth is specified in a recipe, <strong>the</strong>n Italian would have be used. So it seems likely that<br />

this recipe is <strong>the</strong> one responsible for our current understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> as being a sweet vermouth cocktail.<br />

Next up we have <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> recipe listed in Stuart’s Fancy Drinks from 1896, but unfortunately it seems that he has<br />

plagiarised O H Byron, as his entry is identical to <strong>the</strong> 1884 entry in that book (word for word, down to <strong>the</strong> order <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drinks).<br />

So o<strong>the</strong>r than being a second time that we see both a sweet and dry version, it doesn’t actually help us to understand how this<br />

drink might originally have been served.<br />

Fast forward almost a decade to 1905 and we find a recipe for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> in <strong>the</strong> romantically named Consolidated Library <strong>of</strong><br />

Modern Cooking and Household Recipes, volume 5 by Christine Terhune Herrick and M. Harland, which is remarkably similar to<br />

Jerry Thomas' recipe above. The recipe calls for two parts vermouth (sweet) to one part gin with two dashes <strong>of</strong> maraschino<br />

and a dash <strong>of</strong> Boker’s Bitters. Gum syrup may be added if desired. The parting shot is to point out that this recipe is exactly <strong>the</strong><br />

same as <strong>the</strong> one before, which as you might have guessed, is for <strong>the</strong> Manhattan.<br />

MANHATTAN MARTINEZ<br />

What can be made <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se early recipes Well keeping in mind some good advice I received recently from Dave Wondrich when<br />

he said, “I always try to be careful to distinguish between 'it happened once or twice' and 'it's in common use.' The latter is<br />

much more important for writing history; firsts are in my mind highly overrated. People will do any damn thing once or twice.”<br />

it’s hard to draw any firm conclusions from so few recipes. It’s certainly interesting to note that three out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> four mentions<br />

<strong>of</strong> this drink compare it directly to <strong>the</strong> Manhattan cocktail.<br />

We know that <strong>the</strong> Manhattan was by this time a popular and widely consumed drink, and we <strong>of</strong>ten see it served with ei<strong>the</strong>r dry<br />

or sweet vermouth (or on occasion calling for both), so with this in mind, it is at least possible that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> may have been<br />

served ei<strong>the</strong>r way. I’m not for one moment stating this as fact, but instead <strong>of</strong>fer it as food for thought, especially when viewing<br />

<strong>the</strong> next era in <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong>.


THE PROHIBITION ERA MARTINEZ<br />

There’s a significant gap in <strong>the</strong> timeline <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> as far as I’ve been able<br />

to tell (but hopefully readers will find some recipes to fill in <strong>the</strong> gaps) between<br />

1905 and 1922. By this time American bartenders were leaving <strong>the</strong>ir native<br />

shores to escape prohibition, and we start to see <strong>the</strong>m running bars (and<br />

writing books) in Europe. One such example is <strong>Cocktail</strong>s How To Mix Them by<br />

Robert Vermier, where we see an early prohibition era recipe calling for equal<br />

parts Old Tom Gin and French vermouth, combined with ei<strong>the</strong>r curacao or<br />

maraschino and orange bitters. This is just <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> a trend towards a drier<br />

style <strong>of</strong> drink.<br />

Robert also states that in England <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> generally contains Plymouth gin<br />

and French vermouth, with orange syrup and Angostura bitters; once again<br />

pointing at a dry style <strong>of</strong> drink.<br />

In 1930 <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> pops up in <strong>the</strong> Savoy <strong>Cocktail</strong> Book with an almost<br />

identical recipe to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> listed in Robert’s book, only not specifying Old<br />

Tom and simply listing gin instead. So yet again we have a dry style <strong>of</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong><br />

appearing in print.<br />

This is also true <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> recipe in 1700 <strong>Cocktail</strong>s for <strong>the</strong> Man Behind <strong>the</strong> Bar, in 1934, where <strong>the</strong> recipe is for several servings.<br />

Here we have three glasses <strong>of</strong> Plymouth gin and three <strong>of</strong> French vermouth combined with a dessertspoon <strong>of</strong> orange bitters and<br />

two dessertspoons <strong>of</strong> curacao or maraschino. In <strong>the</strong> same year Patrick Gavin Duffy included an identical recipe (again for six<br />

people) in his book <strong>the</strong> Official Mixer’s Manual.<br />

In 1935’s Old Mr. Boston we find <strong>the</strong> first recipe specifying dry gin, as by this time Old Tom had fallen out <strong>of</strong> fashion and London<br />

Dry was <strong>the</strong> go-to style <strong>of</strong> gin for cocktails. Once again equal parts <strong>of</strong> dry gin and French vermouth are combined with orange<br />

bitters and curacao.<br />

So it seems that in <strong>the</strong> 1920s and 30s dry vermouth was <strong>the</strong> standard ingredient for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong>, and <strong>the</strong> ratio had changed<br />

from being vermouth heavy to equal parts vermouth and gin. The drier style <strong>of</strong> drink is not surprising as this was very much <strong>the</strong><br />

taste <strong>of</strong> that era, in fact this is when we start seeing <strong>the</strong> Martini grow more and more dry, so perhaps this is nothing more than<br />

<strong>the</strong> fashion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time<br />

The trend towards dry vermouth is still <strong>the</strong>re in 1946 when Trader Vic includes a <strong>Martinez</strong> in his Bartender’s Guide, made <strong>of</strong><br />

equal parts gin and French vermouth, with ½ a teaspoon each <strong>of</strong> orange bitters and curacao.<br />

It’s interesting that in <strong>the</strong> ten recipes above only two specify sweet vermouth, two <strong>of</strong>fer it both dry and sweet and <strong>the</strong><br />

remaining six all call for dry vermouth. While this is still not such a weighty catalogue <strong>of</strong> evidence as to be able to state that <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> should rightly be made using dry vermouth, it is enough to say that it has been made that way in <strong>the</strong> past, possibly<br />

from <strong>the</strong> time when it was first conceived. I also can’t help but notice that curacao was called for more <strong>of</strong>ten than maraschino,<br />

and while we’re usually only talking about a couple <strong>of</strong> dashes this is enough to change <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drink.<br />

To me this makes some sense when you think about <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r ingredients involved; Old Tom Gin was sweeter than <strong>the</strong> modern<br />

style and more full bodied, liqueur is being added, contributing yet more sweetness, so wouldn’t it make sense to use dry<br />

vermouth to balance <strong>the</strong> drink We’ll probably never know how <strong>the</strong> drink was intended to be, but it’s at least interesting to open<br />

ones mind to <strong>the</strong> possibility that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> may once have been intended as a dry vermouth drink and not <strong>the</strong> sweet one we<br />

know today.<br />

THE MODERN MARTINEZ<br />

So how have we arrived at <strong>the</strong> modern <strong>Martinez</strong> After all, when you look at <strong>the</strong> history above almost all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drinks call for<br />

dry vermouth and not sweet, many are equal parts gin and vermouth, and a lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m call for curacao and orange bitters.<br />

These differences from <strong>the</strong> modern understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> are significant enough to make <strong>the</strong>m worth thinking about.<br />

The key to me, as I mentioned earlier, is <strong>the</strong> importance placed on Jerry Thomas’ book, The Bon Vivant’s Companion, or How to<br />

Mix Drinks. The first edition in 1862 is also <strong>the</strong> first cocktail book in existence, and as such is <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong> starting place for<br />

bartenders to gain insight into <strong>the</strong> classic cocktails <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1800s. But although I agree it’s an important book, it’s by no means<br />

infallible. The fact that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> doesn’t appear in <strong>the</strong> first edition and wasn’t added until two years after Thomas’ death,<br />

means that we don’t even know <strong>the</strong> real source <strong>of</strong> this recipe. Who was it that edited this book and added <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> Where<br />

did he or she get <strong>the</strong>ir recipe It seems to me we've been blindly following this version for some time now, without really<br />

considering <strong>the</strong> source.<br />

I suspect it’s no coincidence that our modern version <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> containing maraschino matches Thomas' so closely, when<br />

his book is so revered. I’m not saying that <strong>the</strong> industry is wrong, or that bartenders have <strong>the</strong>ir facts mixed up, but if you look<br />

through <strong>the</strong> recipes I’ve found so far, it seems that <strong>the</strong> jerry Thomas recipe has been held up as <strong>the</strong> correct one, without much<br />

thought being given to o<strong>the</strong>r recipes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time. Maybe it's worth taking a moment to consider <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r options.<br />

SO IS THERE ANY SUCH THING AS THE MARTINEZ<br />

What conclusion can be drawn from all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> above We can see that in our current cocktail culture <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> is a wellknown<br />

drink that is widely accepted as being made with sweet vermouth and gin (Old Tom), some maraschino and bitters. It’s<br />

clear from looking at <strong>the</strong> timeline below that it hasn't always been made this way though; for at least some <strong>of</strong> its life it was a<br />

dry vermouth and gin based drink. Also worth thinking about is <strong>the</strong> fact that for a drink that is so well established in <strong>the</strong><br />

repertoire <strong>of</strong> modern bartenders <strong>the</strong>re are surprisingly few references to it in cocktail books over <strong>the</strong> years.


It seems likely to me that if it had not been included in two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important and well<br />

respected cocktails books <strong>of</strong> all time, this drink might very well have faded into oblivion,<br />

despite <strong>the</strong> fact that it is a damned tasty cocktail. The fact that <strong>the</strong> two recipes are so very<br />

different can at least partly be put down to <strong>the</strong> availability <strong>of</strong> ingredients in different<br />

countries and different eras, and also to <strong>the</strong> fashion for sweeter drinks in <strong>the</strong> 1880s and dry<br />

drinks in <strong>the</strong> 1920s. None <strong>the</strong> less, <strong>the</strong>re is enough difference between recipes from across<br />

<strong>the</strong> decades that it calls into question what <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> really was.<br />

In fact, given <strong>the</strong> intertwined history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Martini and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> (not to mention <strong>the</strong><br />

Martine and even <strong>the</strong> Turf Club), it’s almost impossible to know if <strong>the</strong>y were <strong>the</strong> same<br />

drink, but known by different names or, if <strong>the</strong>y were designed to be different from <strong>the</strong><br />

outset. Seeing as we have arrived at a time and place where we do indeed have two<br />

individual drinks, it probably doesn’t matter what <strong>the</strong> original intention behind <strong>the</strong>m was.<br />

They have grown apart, and now stand on <strong>the</strong>ir own merits as individual cocktails.<br />

So here is a timeline <strong>of</strong> recipes, for a drink that may or may not ever have been intended<br />

to be different from <strong>the</strong> martini, and may or may not have originally been made with<br />

dry vermouth:<br />

1884 – O H Byron – ‘same as Manhattan but with gin replacing whisky’<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> 1<br />

1 pony French vermouth, ½ pony gin, 3 or 4 dashes Angostura bitters, 3 dashes gum syrup<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> 2<br />

2 dashes curacao, 2 dashes Angostura bitters, ½ wineglass gin, ½ wineglass Italian vermouth<br />

1887 – Jerry Thomas – revised edition 2 years after his death<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> – 1 dash Boker’s bitters, 2 dashes maraschino, 1 pony Old Tom gin, 1 wineglass vermouth.<br />

1896 – Stuart’s Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them<br />

Identical recipe to O H Byron 1884 and once again compared to <strong>the</strong> Manhattan, served both dry and sweet<br />

1905 – Consolidated Library <strong>of</strong> Modern Cooking and Household Recipes, volume 5<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> – shake up well and strain into a large cocktail glass 1 dash <strong>of</strong> bitters, 2 dashes <strong>of</strong> maraschino, 1 pony <strong>of</strong> Old Tom gin,<br />

1 wineglassful <strong>of</strong> vermouth, 2 small lumps <strong>of</strong> ice. Add a slice <strong>of</strong> lemon, and gum syrup if desired, as in last recipe (Manhattan)<br />

1922 – <strong>Cocktail</strong>s and How to Mix Them by Robert<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail – 2 dashes orange bitters, 3 dashes curacao or maraschino, ¼ gill Old Tom Gin, ¼ gill French vermouth<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> in England – 2 dashes orange syrup, 2 dashes Angostura bitters, ¼ gill Plymouth gin, ¼ gill French Vermouth<br />

1930 – Savoy <strong>Cocktail</strong> Book<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail (6 people) – Pour into <strong>the</strong> shaker 3 glasses <strong>of</strong> gin, 3 <strong>of</strong> French vermouth, add a dessertspoonful <strong>of</strong> orange<br />

bitters and 2 <strong>of</strong> curacao or maraschino. Shake and serve with a cherry and a piece <strong>of</strong> lemon rind<br />

1934 – 1700 <strong>Cocktail</strong>s for <strong>the</strong> Man Behind <strong>the</strong> Bar<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> – 3 glasses Plymouth gin, 3 glasses French Vermouth, 1 dessertspoonful orange bitters, 2 dessertspoonful curacao or<br />

maraschino, serve with a cherry and a lemon rind<br />

1934 – Official Mixer’s Manual, Patrick Gavin Duffy<br />

Same recipe as 1700 <strong>Cocktail</strong>s for <strong>the</strong> Man Behind <strong>the</strong> Bar<br />

1935 – Old Mr. Boston<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> cocktail – ½ dry gin, ½ French vermouth, 1 dash orange bitters, 1 dash curacao<br />

1946 – Trader Vic – Bartender’s Guide<br />

¾ oz gin, ¾ oz French vermouth, ½ tsp orange bitters, ½ tsp curacao<br />

So <strong>the</strong>re we have it, 10 recipes for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> spanning from 1884 to 1946, with <strong>the</strong> majority specifying dry vermouth. It's<br />

generally accepted that <strong>the</strong> gin changes through <strong>the</strong> ages as Old Tom becomes less popular and gives way to London Dry and in<br />

some cases even Plymouth. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> recipes <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong> choice <strong>of</strong> ei<strong>the</strong>r maraschino or curacao, and many call for orange<br />

bitters too. Yet we have <strong>the</strong> modern <strong>Martinez</strong> that is at odds with many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se early recipes, but resembles <strong>the</strong> version<br />

included by an anonymous editor <strong>of</strong> Jerry Thomas’ work, who added his recipe two years after <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essors’ death.


I love a good <strong>Martinez</strong> and will gladly accept <strong>the</strong> current version <strong>of</strong> this drink<br />

whenever someone wishes to stir one for me. That being said I can’t wait to try all <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> recipes above to see how <strong>the</strong>y differ, but that’s a blog for ano<strong>the</strong>r day. I hope to<br />

ga<strong>the</strong>r toge<strong>the</strong>r many <strong>of</strong> those who contributed <strong>the</strong>ir research to this blog, so that we<br />

can compare <strong>the</strong>se recipes to get a real sense <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong> drink evolved. In <strong>the</strong><br />

meantime I’ll make do with my own version <strong>of</strong> this drink… after all, as long as you<br />

combine roughly <strong>the</strong> right ingredients, you seem to be able to call anything<br />

a <strong>Martinez</strong>!<br />

THE COMPRIMISED MARTINEZ<br />

45ml Hammer & Son Old English Gin<br />

45ml Noilly Ambre vermouth<br />

1 dash curacao<br />

1 dash maraschino<br />

1 dash orange bitters<br />

1 dash Boker’s bitters<br />

Stir or shake (after all both methods have been used over <strong>the</strong> years), <strong>the</strong>n strain into a chilled coupe and garnish with your<br />

choice from <strong>the</strong> following: a cherry, a lemon twist, a slice <strong>of</strong> lemon, or all three, it’s entirely up to you!<br />

Please if you have more information or recipes for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong>, we’d love to hear from you and add it into <strong>the</strong> timeline <strong>of</strong> this<br />

ever evolving cocktail.<br />

FURTHER READING - in reply to <strong>the</strong> question posed in <strong>the</strong> title <strong>of</strong> this article Adam Elmegirab has posted his thoughts and<br />

research regarding <strong>the</strong> intertwined nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Manhattan, <strong>Martinez</strong> and Martini here. an excellent read and definitely states<br />

<strong>the</strong> case for <strong>the</strong> camp who believe that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> was a sweet vermouth drink from <strong>the</strong> outset!<br />

also see this great chart based on <strong>the</strong> timeline above as created by Tristan Stephenson <strong>of</strong> Purl and Whistling Shop fame:<br />

Tags: Boker's bitters <strong>Cocktail</strong> recipes Gin Jerry Thomas <strong>Martinez</strong> Martini Old English Gin Old Tom Gin Plymouth Gin<br />

Savoy cocktail book<br />

Comments<br />

by David T Smith | March 9, 2012 - 8:58am<br />

Given <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> consistency<br />

Given <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> consistency <strong>of</strong> what a <strong>Martinez</strong> is - it seems harder to conceive that it really was <strong>the</strong> evolutionary ancestor <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Martini.<br />

reply


y Daniel Priseman | March 9, 2012 - 10:22am<br />

well...<br />

Hi David,<br />

thanks for reading <strong>the</strong> blog.<br />

I agree that <strong>the</strong> history is a bit inconsistant, but I think it’s clear that <strong>the</strong> one thing that sets <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> apart from<br />

<strong>the</strong> Martini is that even at it’s lowest ratio it is still much more vermouth led. That being said <strong>the</strong>re’s no reason why<br />

<strong>the</strong>y couldn’t have been <strong>the</strong> same drink known by similar but different names in <strong>the</strong>ir early days.<br />

For me though I have started thinking <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> as being closer to a gin Manhattan.<br />

There’s certainly room for interpritation though<br />

Cheers<br />

Dan<br />

reply<br />

by Adam | March 9, 2012 - 3:08pm<br />

What is a Martini<br />

Great piece Dan!<br />

The lines between <strong>the</strong> Martini and <strong>Martinez</strong> blur. What we now know as <strong>the</strong> Martini was very different to what I<br />

think was <strong>the</strong> first published recipe from 1891 (if <strong>the</strong>re’s something earlier please let me know)<br />

“Wehmann’s Bartenders Guide (Henry J.Wehmann)<br />

Martini <strong>Cocktail</strong><br />

(Use large bar glass)<br />

Fill <strong>the</strong> glass with ice<br />

2 or 3 dashes Gum Syrup<br />

2 or 3 dashes Bitters<br />

1 dash <strong>of</strong> Curacoa<br />

1/2 wine glassful <strong>of</strong> old Tom Gin<br />

1/2 wine glassful <strong>of</strong> vermouth<br />

Stir well with a spoon, strain into cocktail glass, squeeze a piece <strong>of</strong> lemon peel on top, and serve”<br />

Look familiar doesn’t it<br />

I personally don’t think <strong>the</strong>re can be any doubt that <strong>the</strong> Martini, as we now know it, spawned from <strong>the</strong><br />

Manhattan/<strong>Martinez</strong> and gained popularity for numerous reasons, namely <strong>the</strong> link with <strong>the</strong> brand (who likely<br />

named it) and <strong>the</strong> switch towards dried drinks. Also have to take into account that <strong>the</strong> Martini we know today is<br />

rarely called so, it’s likely called <strong>the</strong> Dry Martini. Which was <strong>the</strong> name switch that happened in 1906 (Louis’<br />

Mixed Drinks).<br />

I’m posting my expanded thoughts on my webpage at <strong>the</strong> moment…<br />

reply<br />

by James | March 9, 2012 - 4:33am<br />

Variations<br />

Once again a great read and as always informative while stimulating fur<strong>the</strong>r thought.<br />

I was by chance working on a martinez variation tonight for a new menu. Having had <strong>the</strong> luck to work beside Adam on a<br />

couple <strong>of</strong> bars I based my drink on a martinez he once made for me with tequila instead <strong>of</strong> gin.<br />

I opted for equal parts don julio reposado and dubonnet with b/s grand marnier and orange bitters and grapefruit bittes.<br />

Turned out well balanced and enjoyed by all who tried it. However, dry vermouth had been playing on mind and after reading<br />

this post I’m itching to get back and test it out.<br />

Is this still a martinez though Or does this tequila version already exist under ano<strong>the</strong>r name<br />

reply<br />

by Tom Bartram | March 13, 2012 - 3:58am<br />

.... Did someone say tequila!<br />

Hi James<br />

To <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> my knowledge (I love <strong>the</strong> disclaimer style wording we all use!) <strong>the</strong> first time <strong>the</strong>se great liquids (tequila<br />

and vermouth) appear toge<strong>the</strong>r in print is in Cafe Royal <strong>Cocktail</strong> Book (1937, William J Tarling) in <strong>the</strong> from <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

following two libations, written as printed:<br />

Matador<br />

1/3 Orange Curaçao.


1/3 French Vermouth.<br />

1/3 Tequila.<br />

Shake.<br />

Sombrero<br />

1/4 French Vermouth.<br />

1/4 Italian Vermouth.<br />

1/2 Tequila.<br />

Squeeze lemon peel on top.<br />

Shake.<br />

Tequila back <strong>the</strong>n would have been Blanco, as ageing and carmel addition (gold) hadn’t began by <strong>the</strong>n. It could have<br />

possibly been mixto, which came to prevalence in <strong>the</strong> 1930s, although many suggest early mixtos would have been<br />

around 80% agave, so not so much like todays 51% agave mixtos. Although this is <strong>the</strong> case, I’d say use whatever<br />

tequila you want, and feel free to use a dash <strong>of</strong> this or that, as times change, tastes change, trends change, ingredients<br />

change, and (however stubborn <strong>the</strong> history geek inside us all wants to be) cocktails evolve with <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

reply<br />

by humberto | March 8, 2012 - 2:07pm<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong><br />

This recipe <strong>of</strong> a <strong>Martinez</strong> by a book that i have 1st edition 1936 - How to mix drinks - Bill Edwards<br />

States:<br />

1 part Old Tom Gin<br />

1 part french vermouth<br />

2 dashes Angostura bitters per cocktail<br />

squeeze a piece <strong>of</strong> lemon peel on top and Serve with an olive<br />

reply<br />

by John Clay | March 8, 2012 - 11:40am<br />

Love it<br />

Hi Dan<br />

Again a fantastic article… Now sadly, I already wrote a post this morning but it appears my to have gone through. Which is<br />

irritating as it was quite lOng and from my iPhone. None<strong>the</strong>less I shall repost and condense my twopence into a shorter<br />

post :D<br />

There’s a few points which are worth considering. I can totally see why Mr Duff would use whiskey An for me it connects to an<br />

understanding <strong>of</strong> spirits <strong>of</strong> that era. Understanding ol Tom an Genever really chane <strong>the</strong> drink. The drink never made sense to<br />

my palate until I started exploring old toms and genevers and <strong>the</strong>n suddenly it was like, woah, <strong>the</strong>re’s <strong>the</strong> link. The heavy<br />

weight <strong>of</strong> Genever, especially in <strong>the</strong> 2:1 versions, can really stack up against <strong>the</strong> vermouth… In <strong>the</strong> same way that whiskey<br />

can. Old Tom has <strong>the</strong> potential too but it really depends on how it’s made. Old Tom is a bit <strong>of</strong> a catch all term and ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />

being jut a kinda sweetened gin, <strong>the</strong>y varied from <strong>the</strong> relatively clean versions made with column Distilledspirit and sugared<br />

for mouthfeel and depth and quite heavily spiced …to <strong>the</strong> more Genever like versions that were pot still versions where <strong>the</strong><br />

base spirit was pot Distilled and more rich and, well whiskey-ish.<br />

I understand that Genever at <strong>the</strong> time was <strong>of</strong> high pr<strong>of</strong>ile and repute and so most certainly a cocktail spirit for <strong>the</strong> high brass<br />

drinking crowd… So working on assumptions an reading between <strong>the</strong> lines, this I where I end up. On that point, I think it’s<br />

difficult with this period because Mr JT left so many things unspecified and only as cocktail books progress and start trying to<br />

outdo each o<strong>the</strong>r do we start ending up with more specifics.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> vermouth front, I’m fairly sure that <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> Noilly and it’s big push in <strong>the</strong> late 1800s wasresponsonle for helping<br />

push <strong>the</strong> drink in a particular direction and popularising <strong>the</strong> dry version.<br />

I love to think <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> big headed showman JT, looking down on us an relishing in <strong>the</strong> attention we give him.<br />

Thanks for pushing <strong>the</strong> boundaries Dan and asking <strong>the</strong> right questions.<br />

J<br />

reply<br />

by Hack | March 8, 2012 - 10:34am<br />

The wild nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong><br />

During Copenhagen Spirits and <strong>Cocktail</strong>s this year, Philip Duff presented a couple <strong>of</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> during his seminar “Going<br />

Against <strong>the</strong> Grain: Crafting Spirits and Flavours Around Grain Distillates”. All <strong>of</strong> those were made <strong>of</strong> whiskey instead <strong>of</strong> gin.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> presentation I asked him why he made it with whiskey (and if you would still be able to call it a <strong>Martinez</strong>), to which<br />

he responded that <strong>the</strong> nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> is wild and brutal and isn’t a specific recipe but more <strong>of</strong> a concept for a drink<br />

(Sorry if I misunderstood anything, Philip!). Doesn’t seem like he goes by <strong>the</strong> book on this one, but never <strong>the</strong> less his point<br />

seems legit - taken <strong>the</strong> many past recipes in consideration..<br />

Anyway. The first recipe for a <strong>Martinez</strong> I’ve learned is a bit unlike those posted:<br />

2 parts gin (no specific type)<br />

1 part dry vermouth<br />

1 part sweet vermouth


1 barspoon <strong>of</strong> maraschino<br />

1-3 dashes <strong>of</strong> angostura<br />

Garnish with lemon zest<br />

reply<br />

by Daniel Priseman | March 8, 2012 - 10:51am<br />

nicely put<br />

I love that description. Mr Duff always has a way with words<br />

I agree that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong> is a concept, and my gut feeling is that it most likely started out as <strong>the</strong> gin version <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Manhattan, which means <strong>the</strong>re is room to move in terms <strong>of</strong> ratios, balance and nuances. As for making it with whiskey,<br />

well a Manhattan by any o<strong>the</strong>r name still tastes great to me!<br />

I like your recipe, I guess you’d have to call it a perfect <strong>Martinez</strong> if you follow <strong>the</strong> Manhattan <strong>the</strong>ory!<br />

reply<br />

by François Monti | March 8, 2012 - 7:30am<br />

A great article, thanks<br />

A great article, thanks a lot.<br />

I find it interesting that most bartenders you asked say <strong>the</strong>y use a 2:1 in favour <strong>of</strong> sweet vermouth. I’ve been working on a<br />

<strong>Martinez</strong> post — not so much about <strong>the</strong> history, my aim is simply to find my “ideal” <strong>Martinez</strong> — and I have been asking<br />

bartenders in Spain and in France what recipe <strong>the</strong>y use. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m go for <strong>the</strong> 2:1 in favour <strong>of</strong> gin (sometimes London Dry,<br />

sometimes Old Tom), a few go for 1:1. Of <strong>the</strong> people I asked, only one used 2:1 sweet vermouth ratio: Charles Vexenat, who<br />

worked for quite a while in London.<br />

Maybe <strong>the</strong> prevalence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sweet vermouth heavy version is due not only to Thomas’ book but also to Wondrich’s. I’d guess<br />

it has made less <strong>of</strong> an impact on Spanish (and French) bartenders, so <strong>the</strong>y keep using <strong>the</strong> recipe that was most common in<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir country a while ago<br />

reply<br />

by Daniel Priseman | March 8, 2012 - 9:10am<br />

interesting<br />

thanks for checking out <strong>the</strong> blog Francois<br />

it’s very interesting to hear that a completely different recipe is prevelant in Spain and France, and it makes me wonder<br />

what <strong>the</strong> origin <strong>of</strong> this version is. Does it come from <strong>the</strong> simple fact that most cocktails <strong>the</strong>se days are spirit led, so at<br />

some point <strong>the</strong> ratios were changed in favour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gin, or is <strong>the</strong>re a historical reason (recipes from non English/US<br />

cocktail books for example)<br />

The 2:1 ratio <strong>of</strong> gin to vermouth moves this much closer to many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old recipes for a Sweet Martini or <strong>of</strong> course <strong>the</strong><br />

Gin and It. But maybe on <strong>the</strong> continent, once <strong>the</strong> ratio had moved towards 1:1 in <strong>the</strong> 1930’s it continued to develop in<br />

a different direction to <strong>the</strong> way it moved in <strong>the</strong> US and UK<br />

thanks for commenting and for adding ano<strong>the</strong>r question to <strong>the</strong> timeline <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Martinez</strong><br />

D<br />

reply<br />

by Anonymous | March 9, 2012 - 8:55am<br />

2:1 Gin:Sweet Vermouth is<br />

2:1 Gin:Sweet Vermouth is what I’ve always been told.<br />

reply<br />

by Daniel Priseman | March 9, 2012 - 10:25am<br />

interesting<br />

I’m starting to hear that a little more from bartenders, but mainly from those working in Europe, with UK<br />

bartenders mainly saying 2:1 vermouth to gin. I wonder when <strong>the</strong> gin heavy version started coming in and<br />

where it originated. I haven’t found a recipe printed in a book for that spec yet, but books aren’t by any<br />

means <strong>the</strong> only place where drinks develop<br />

Cheers for reading <strong>the</strong> blog<br />

Dan<br />

reply<br />

by François Monti | March 9, 2012 - 7:29pm


Well, “Joy <strong>of</strong> Mixology” has<br />

Well, “Joy <strong>of</strong> Mixology” has it 2:1 gin…<br />

reply<br />

by François Monti | March 8, 2012 - 11:31am<br />

I asked one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bartenders<br />

I asked one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bartenders why he prefered <strong>the</strong> 2:1 gin version, and he said it was more suited to <strong>the</strong> modern<br />

palate, which I found quite weird because Madrid drinkers have a sweet tooth and vermouth is a typical drink<br />

here (you find it on tap in most traditional bars). Although to be fair, most punters would not ask a <strong>Martinez</strong><br />

(Mojito and Caïpis are still <strong>the</strong> rage here, even in better bars) and <strong>the</strong> few cocktail enthusiasts prefer indeed<br />

spirits heavy drinks.<br />

Unfortunately, I don’t have any classic spanish book around but I might just ask a cocktail book collector <strong>of</strong> mine<br />

who might have some stuff (although most <strong>of</strong> his collection is now used as decoration in one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> main<br />

bars here).<br />

reply<br />

by H | March 8, 2012 - 12:48am<br />

like it!!!<br />

like it!!!<br />

reply<br />

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