Number in series 59; Year of publication 1966 - Fell and Rock ...

ZERO GULLY
Geoff Oliver
The main gullies of Ben Nevis have a most mundane and
unromantic set of names. Numbers Five, Four, Three and
Two Gullies, for instance, do little to inspire the climber
studying the guide-book before his first visit. I hasten to add
that few are disappointed when they come to climb them.
Zero Gully is probably the biggest misnomer of them all,
for this is no nonentity but a major ice climb of almost alpine
proportions. It has often been said that winter climbing in
Scotland provides an effective preparation for alpine mountaineering.
It might also be said that a few seasons in the Alps
make useful groundwork for the more serious Scottish climbs
as the speed which one develops by alpine climbing is
absolutely essential when dealing with long steep gullies on
short winter days.
My interest in Zero Gully was aroused in 1962 upon reading
an account of its first ascent. As this had not taken place until
the nineteen-fifties one supposed that this must be an exceptional
climb. Discovering that Eric Rayson shared my interest
we arranged to book the Charles Inglis Clark hut for a week
in early March. During February, we listened with glee to
reports of snowfalls and ice in the north, while others cursed
their effect on daily routine. By the night of our departure
we were confident that we should find conditions on our
mountain all that could be desired. Unfortunately, good ice
conditions almost proved our undoing as they also prevailed
at road level and we were lucky to arrive at Fort William at all.
The 2,000-foot climb from Glen Nevis next morning, with
several days' supply of food on our backs, was almost as
hazardous, and it was only after resorting to crampons that
we were able to reach the hut. The C.I.C. hut may have a
spartan exterior, but once inside its three-foot walls and
double doors, with the pot-bellied stove boosting the temperature
to over 90°F, to the weary climber it is a positive
haven from the elements.
The situation of the hut, about five minutes' walk from the
foot of the classic Tower Ridge, and with the other ridges
ranging in a half circle, makes it ideal as a centre. In the next
four days we climbed several of the less difficult routes; and
then, as the mountain appeared a little less overwhelming, we
decided to take a look at Zero.