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Number in series 59; Year of publication 1966 - Fell and Rock ...

Number in series 59; Year of publication 1966 - Fell and Rock ...

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SUN, SNOW AND SILENCE<br />

—A Journey Across Central Greenl<strong>and</strong> on Ski<br />

Roger Tufft<br />

Last summer Roger Tufft, William Wallace, Dr. Hugh<br />

Simpson <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Simpson crossed from the east to the<br />

west coast <strong>of</strong> Greenl<strong>and</strong>—the first unaided cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the<br />

ice-cap s<strong>in</strong>ce that <strong>of</strong> Nansen <strong>in</strong> 1888. The ma<strong>in</strong> purpose <strong>of</strong><br />

the cross<strong>in</strong>g was to make a study <strong>of</strong> adrenal response to<br />

prolonged physical stress. This is an account <strong>of</strong> their<br />

400-mile journey.<br />

In the summer <strong>of</strong> 1888, the young Norwegian, Fridtj<strong>of</strong><br />

Nansen, confounded his critics <strong>and</strong> astonished his contemporaries<br />

by mak<strong>in</strong>g the first cross<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Greenl<strong>and</strong><br />

ice-cap. Aga<strong>in</strong>st all advice he crossed from the un<strong>in</strong>habited<br />

<strong>and</strong> virtually unknown east coast to the friendly, <strong>in</strong>habited<br />

west. However, delays <strong>in</strong> the pack ice had resulted <strong>in</strong> Nansen<br />

ab<strong>and</strong>on<strong>in</strong>g his orig<strong>in</strong>al plan <strong>of</strong> a cross<strong>in</strong>g from Angmagssalik<br />

to Christianshaab <strong>and</strong> tak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>stead a shorter <strong>and</strong> more<br />

southerly route.<br />

S<strong>in</strong>ce Nansen's time there have been numerous cross<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong><br />

the ice-cap with a variety <strong>of</strong> expeditions aided by dogs, ponies<br />

<strong>and</strong> Weasels. No-one had repeated Nansen's achievement <strong>of</strong><br />

cross<strong>in</strong>g us<strong>in</strong>g man-power only. However, techniques <strong>in</strong><br />

manhaul<strong>in</strong>g have improved almost as much as climb<strong>in</strong>g s<strong>in</strong>ce<br />

1888 <strong>and</strong> it seemed by no means unreasonable therefore to<br />

plan an unaided cross<strong>in</strong>g along Nansen's orig<strong>in</strong>al route.<br />

Fortunately, Dr. Simpson who had done previous physiological<br />

research <strong>in</strong> the Antarctic <strong>and</strong> Arctic, was able to obta<strong>in</strong><br />

a grant to study the effect <strong>of</strong> prolonged stress such as that<br />

provided by a 400-mile manhaul<strong>in</strong>g journey. However, the<br />

Danish government refused to give permission for us to<br />

attempt the journey <strong>and</strong> certa<strong>in</strong> authorities at home demurred<br />

at back<strong>in</strong>g a trip <strong>of</strong> such length, ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g that it would be<br />

impossible to carry sufficient food <strong>and</strong> fuel for the complete<br />

cross<strong>in</strong>g. Accord<strong>in</strong>gly, we agreed to shorten our cross<strong>in</strong>g by<br />

descend<strong>in</strong>g from the ice-cap <strong>in</strong> the region <strong>of</strong> Sondre Strom<br />

fiord whence we would complete the journey to Christianshaab<br />

by canoe. (In fact, whilst not obstruct<strong>in</strong>g us, the Danes never<br />

did give permission to make the cross<strong>in</strong>g.)<br />

On 12th June 1965 we left Glasgow for Reykjavik <strong>and</strong> the<br />

next day flew by Dakota to Angmagssalik. Whilst still some

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