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December Issue 2010<br />

www.seren.bangor.ac.uk<br />

11<br />

Features<br />

Primark – the place of cheap,<br />

fashionable clothing; the student’s<br />

favourite place to shop.<br />

But why are the clothes so cheap<br />

The principles that Primark aim to<br />

meet are the provision of quality and<br />

ranged clothing at an affordable price,<br />

at the bottom end of the high street<br />

b u d g e t .<br />

People are<br />

inclined to<br />

believe tht<br />

this aim<br />

encourages<br />

the potential<br />

of poor<br />

w o r k i n g<br />

conditions.<br />

Maybe this<br />

is why Primark has been the subject<br />

of so many investigations and debates<br />

upon their labour ethics over<br />

the years.<br />

2005 saw Primark scoring the<br />

lowest of all leading clothing chains<br />

throughout the UK on the ethical<br />

index, which covers issues such as<br />

workers’ rights and business dealing<br />

with oppressive regimes. Primark<br />

contested these claims and, in 2006,<br />

joined the Ethical Trading Initiative<br />

to work on labour rights within their<br />

supply chains. Joining the ETI implies<br />

that Primark were committed towards<br />

implementing a code of conduct<br />

based on the International Labour<br />

Organisation. Primark’s participation<br />

within ETI suggested that the company<br />

intends to treat their labourers<br />

fairly. This was only the first time that<br />

Primark was under fire for dubious<br />

ethics.<br />

In December 2008, the criticism<br />

continued. UK charity War on Want<br />

exposed in their report, Fashion Victims<br />

II, that conditions had not improved<br />

in the Bangladeshi suppliers<br />

that Primark used after their visit two<br />

years previously.<br />

The most controversial revelation<br />

came just six months earlier, on 23<br />

June 2008. When Panoroma revealed<br />

that three of the Bangledeshi factories<br />

sub-contracted to Primark make use<br />

of child labour the public was outraged.<br />

Once the BBC informed Primark<br />

of this fact the company released<br />

a statement; “Under no circumstances<br />

would Primark ever knowingly permit<br />

such activities”. Primark immediately<br />

halted trading with the guilty<br />

suppliers.<br />

1 aim, 1 tenner, 1 charity shop!<br />

It’s charity shop time again guys, but Christy (my model) chose the charity<br />

this time it’s a winter Christmas shop Ty Gobaith, Hope House. It is a<br />

special! This month I was inspired tiny store situated near KFC, further<br />

by the new H&M in<br />

down the high<br />

<strong>Bangor</strong> town and by<br />

some of the students<br />

walking around.<br />

I wanted to pick a<br />

cute but warm outfit<br />

that would be suitable<br />

for Christmas Day or Boxing Day, and<br />

especially with the snow approaching,<br />

the outfit I chose suits perfectly. Me and<br />

Child protection groups criticised<br />

this action, stating that this would<br />

cause greater difficulties for the workers,<br />

it would have been better to work<br />

with the suppliers to improve working<br />

conditions for their labourers and<br />

change practices for the better.<br />

This wasn’t the end of the criticism<br />

surrounding Primark. The next focus<br />

of investigation was focused towards<br />

Primark’s employment practices. On<br />

the 9 January 2009, from an investigation<br />

carried out by the BBC/The<br />

Observer, a supplier was forced by the<br />

ETI to remove branding from Primark<br />

stores and websites after allegedly<br />

using illegal immigrant labour, paying<br />

less than the legal UK minimum<br />

wage, going strongly against the ethical<br />

trading standards of both the ETI<br />

and Primark.<br />

The unearthing of the truths surrounding<br />

the suppliers and their<br />

mistreatment of workers has led to<br />

P r i m a r k<br />

changing its<br />

ethical trading<br />

statements.<br />

As<br />

a result the<br />

prices seem<br />

to be rising<br />

as they<br />

attempt to<br />

remove the<br />

stigmatism<br />

by claiming<br />

to improve<br />

the conditions<br />

of their<br />

l a b o u r e r s .<br />

Primark still<br />

sits at the<br />

bottom end<br />

of the high<br />

street spectrum<br />

though,<br />

street. Firstly I<br />

chose the bright<br />

red knitted jumper,<br />

which cost £3.<br />

It is perfect for<br />

the Christmas<br />

season, and has the traditional patterns<br />

of black and white reindeer. It is bangon<br />

trend, with Topshop and New look<br />

below the likes of New Look which,<br />

despite a student discount, can still be<br />

pretty pricey sometimes. Primark is<br />

considered to be on a similar level to<br />

supermarket clothing chains belonging<br />

to Asda and Tescos.<br />

A visit to the Primark websiteshows<br />

that the multiple criticisms has<br />

led to a change. There is now a section<br />

within the website focused entirely<br />

upon ethical trading and Primark<br />

wants to emphasise it. On every page<br />

of the website the link to the section<br />

regarding Ethical Trading is present,<br />

inviting site visitors to take a look for<br />

themselves. The In-Practice subsection<br />

says “As Primark has grown, our<br />

record on ethical trading has come in<br />

for close scrutiny... we are firmly committed<br />

to improving the ethical performance<br />

of our business and that of<br />

our suppliers and their factories.”<br />

The fact still remains that whenever<br />

a controversy has arisen regarding<br />

exploitation of workers Primark<br />

has immediately ceased trading with<br />

the guilty supplier. Personally I can’t<br />

help but wonder whether Primark<br />

truly wish to protect the rights of their<br />

workers by ceasing trading or whether<br />

they are simply trying to save public<br />

face by disassociating themselves with<br />

Cheap and fair or just plain cheap<br />

I wanted to pick a cute but<br />

warm outfit that would be<br />

suitable for Christmas day<br />

or Boxing day<br />

People rioting at the 2007 store opening<br />

the guilty parties, claiming ignorance.<br />

Primark’s controversies haven’t<br />

been solely based on abuse of labourers.<br />

Attention was focused on Primark<br />

again in 2007, this time it was aimed<br />

at one of the UK stores in London’s<br />

Oxford Street. On its opening day the<br />

queuing shoppers descended into riots<br />

in their rush to reach the bargains<br />

and a non-existant half-price sale.<br />

After the store was forced to open 15<br />

minutes early due to the crush outside,<br />

two members of staff; a security<br />

guard and a manager, were injured<br />

and taken to hospital as a precaution.<br />

For days afterwards the news of<br />

the store riot could<br />

be found in many<br />

newspapers and<br />

in TV news, questioning<br />

whether<br />

the low prices were<br />

to blame for the<br />

crowds agitation.<br />

When reporting<br />

upon the incident<br />

The Independent<br />

again returned to<br />

the exploitation of<br />

workers “Anti-poverty<br />

charities claim<br />

the clothes are<br />

made by workers<br />

in Bangladesh paid<br />

as little as £3 for an<br />

80-hour week in<br />

selling the same style for a much higher<br />

price. Because the jumper is bold and<br />

bright, I wanted an understated look<br />

for the trousers. I chose some dark<br />

grey skinny jeans, which were an amazing<br />

£3.49. To top the look off, I chose<br />

a white woollen scarf to drape around<br />

Christy’s neck. It cost £1 which makes it<br />

the bargain of the day! So there we have<br />

it, and the whole outfit didn’t even cost<br />

a tenner! Just shows, a little thought<br />

can make an ideal Christmas outfit and<br />

you will feel good for giving to a wonderful<br />

charity which supports families<br />

and their terminally-ill children. Hope<br />

House relies on donations and fundraising<br />

to keep their hospice going, so<br />

you really will be making a difference<br />

and maybe helping to make somebody<br />

else’s Christmas a lot<br />

brighter.<br />

Abbi<br />

Ryan<br />

grim sweatshops<br />

without union representation.”<br />

The<br />

frequent return to this issue suggests<br />

that no matter how long Primark<br />

sticks around there will always be a<br />

stigma attached to their clothing production.<br />

Events such as the store riot can be<br />

considered to show the high popularity<br />

of the store and it certainly hasn’t<br />

l e s s e n e d<br />

since then.<br />

If anything,<br />

despite the<br />

allegations of<br />

labour abuse<br />

and the often<br />

poor quality<br />

of the<br />

clothing, the<br />

chain seems<br />

to be growing in popularity and it appears<br />

increasingly unlikely to lessen<br />

any time soon.<br />

Do students need Primark though<br />

In most university towns, <strong>Bangor</strong> in<br />

particular, there are multiple charity<br />

shops carrying high quality, almost<br />

new clothing for a fraction of the price<br />

(sometimes the clothes can be from<br />

the top end of the high street market<br />

from stores like Jane Norman). New<br />

Look offers a 20% student discount<br />

and regular sales giving student shoppers<br />

the chance to buy a larger range<br />

of clothes that are, in my opinion, of<br />

much higher quality. River Island<br />

too offer a large number of sales, occasionally<br />

cutting prices by as much<br />

as 75% (I managed to get a dress for<br />

£12.50 that was originally £50!).<br />

Most student shoppers have the<br />

knowledge and smarts to get the most<br />

for their money without the compromise<br />

on quality of clothing that Primark<br />

seems to give us. Maybe the rest<br />

of us should take a lesson from them<br />

and do the same. Plus charity shop<br />

shopping gives you the warm fuzzy<br />

feeling of helping a good cause while<br />

snapping up a bargain.<br />

Personally I think that Primark is<br />

going to be around for a long time, as<br />

the economy gets worse and that even<br />

after it recovers Primark will still be<br />

the hunting ground of those after a<br />

good bargain. Even when fancy dress<br />

outfits are necessary Primark is the<br />

best place to go, especially if you’re<br />

only going to wear it once. Honestly<br />

though, I’m unlikely to shop there for<br />

any other reason.<br />

Nicole Nally

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