IN THE KITCHEN PICKLED/CURED TREND: JAPANESE PICKLED CUCUMBER Pickling has certainly seen its day in the sun these last few years. While it was once galvanized by hard times and a cruel economy, it’s currently being fueled by the DIY movement and ever-burgeoning farmers’ markets. This particular recipe is well suited for the uninitiated and the impatient. A quick pickle can be made overnight, without employing a water bath canning method. The Japanese-inspired brine is super simple and adaptable to myriad vegetables (carrots, daikon, and asparagus). If you can find Persian or Kirby cucumbers, they would be a good first choice. Otherwise, English cucumbers are well suited. Makes 1, 32-ounce jar 2 English cucumbers (about 13–16 ounces total), sliced ½-inch thick 2 1-inch squares of kombu, cut (with scissors) into thin strips 2 dried chile de árbol, stemmed, seeded, and cut into strips 1 cup water 6 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons kosher salt ½ cup rice wine vinegar Place sliced cucumbers, kombu, and chile strips in jar. In a small saucepan, heat water, then add sugar and salt. Stir until dissolved, then remove from heat and allow to cool. Add rice wine vinegar, then pour mixture into the jar to cover the cucumbers. Close the lid, and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. They will keep refrigerated for up to two weeks. GLUTEN-FREE TREND: OVEN ROASTED WHOLE CAULIFLOWER Gluten-free cooking doesn’t have to be a woeful, wheatless reproduction of the foods we once loved. Indeed, there are so many options for gluten-free eaters, given the abundance in the produce, meat, and fish aisles. I recently discovered this method for roasting cauliflower and have been refining and riffing on it since. While we don’t often think of roasting a whole cauliflower in the way we’d roast a whole chicken, the adaptation is befitting. This is my go-to for an inclusive dinner party with gluten-free (and gluten-ful) friends. Carve it at the table for a dramatic presentation and serve it alongside rice specked with fresh herbs and seasonal fish. Serves 4 to 6 8 cups water 2 cups dry white wine ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons lemon juice 3 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon sugar 2 bay leaves 1 head cauliflower, trimmed of leaves ½ cup yogurt 1 tablespoon tahini 1 tablespoon lemon zest 2 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper extra-virgin olive oil, to drizzle on top To a large pot (large enough to hold a whole head of cauliflower), add the water, wine, olive oil, butter, pepper flakes, lemon juice, kosher salt, sugar, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then turn heat down to a simmer and carefully lower in the whole head of cauliflower. Cook at a low simmer, turning cauliflower occasionally, until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove cauliflower from broth, pat dry, and set aside in a large bowl. Heat oven to 475 degrees F. In another small bowl, add yogurt, tahini, lemon zest, garlic paste, salt, and pepper and mix to combine. Spread the yogurt mix all over the cauliflower (it’s easiest to do this with your hands), then position the head of cauliflower onto a lined baking dish. Bake until golden brown, rotating dish halfway through, about 30 to 40 minutes. Serve whole on a platter, drizzled with olive oil. MIDDLE EASTERN MEAT TREND: SINDHI BIRYANI (PAKISTANI GOAT CURRY WITH RICE) Goat meat has been playing a bigger role on restaurant menus of late—an eventual trickle-down effect from our growing affinity for goat-milk cheeses. But goat meat in the kitchen is nothing new. It’s a trend that’s endured through the ages, across the globe, even if it’s a newly discovered ingredient in 8 home by design|april|may|2014
IN THE KITCHEN Japanese Pickled Cucumber Oven Roasted Whole Cauliflower home by design|april|may|2014 9
Change language