InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL - Scruples Hair Care Products
InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL - Scruples Hair Care Products
InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL - Scruples Hair Care Products
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<strong>InStRUCtIOn</strong> <strong>MAnUAL</strong>
Model: Jana, Natural Level 3 | Base Colour: Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 4 Cherry Chocolate (4MG) | Highlight Colour: Bla z I n g Highlighting & Color System – Chestnut
• the reflection of a translucent with the coverage of an opaque<br />
opaque colour translucent colour opalescent colour<br />
• Low ammonia permanent and demi-permanent haircolour system<br />
• provides beautiful colour selection and expert gray coverage<br />
• Mixes easily to a beautiful, creamy consistency<br />
• Self-To u r ® — taking the colorist to the next level<br />
• PBX® helps protect the colour molecule and the Tru e In T e g r I T y of hair while providing deeper penetration<br />
of colour for radiant, shiny results<br />
• nutrient-rich botanical blend — orange flower, orange oil, panthenol, vitamin E, sunflower and aloe<br />
for beautiful, rich tones and silky hair<br />
• Inventory options — stock all tubes for easy colour selection or stock selected colours for reduced<br />
inventory and mixing options<br />
• All ranges of haircolour are calibrated at every level for accuracy in mixing and are true to level, true to shade
Model: Karen, Natural Level 7 | Base Colour: Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme – Level 7 Brilliant Copper (7CC)<br />
tABLE OF COntEntS<br />
True In T eg rI T y ® OPALESCEnt COLOUR CREME<br />
5 technology<br />
6 inventory Options and Components<br />
COLOUR IDEntIFICAtIOn SyStEM<br />
7 Colour identification System<br />
8 Colour Wheel<br />
9 Colour Creme Series, Levels and Bases<br />
10 Colour Swatches<br />
Pure oxI ® CREME DEVELOPERS<br />
12 Pur e Ox I Creme Developers<br />
13 Developer Selection Chart<br />
– Mixing Ratio Guide<br />
SCRUPLES’ Self-To u r ® OF HAIRCOLOUR<br />
14 sel F-TO u r Defined<br />
– Characteristics<br />
– principles of Light and Dark Shades<br />
15 Face Shapes and Colour placement<br />
16 Skin tone and Eye Colour<br />
– personality<br />
– <strong>Hair</strong> Analysis<br />
PROCEDURE<br />
17 Colour procedure<br />
18 Gray Coverage<br />
20 intensifiers<br />
21 pastel toners and Sheer Coverage Options<br />
22 Ultra Light Blondes<br />
23 Repigmentation procedure
<strong>Scruples</strong>’ nutrient-rich botanical blend includes a combination of pure botanical<br />
extracts and vitamins that enhance the condition, shine and brilliance of hair:<br />
◊ Orange flower extract and orange oil – condition and add sheen<br />
◊ panthenol (pro-vitamin B) – helps renew and repair dehydrated,<br />
damaged hair<br />
◊ Vitamin E (antioxidant) – helps stop the oxidation process, reduces colour<br />
fading, and strengthens and conditions hair<br />
◊ Sunflower – provides ultraviolet (UV) protection and soothes the scalp<br />
◊ Aloe – moisturizes and helps heal the cuticle layer<br />
tHE tECHNOLOGY<br />
<strong>Scruples</strong> Protective Barrier Complex (PBX®) is a blend of essential ingredients that help protect the colour molecule and<br />
provide deeper penetration of colour for radiant results. included in the complex are ingredients that moisturize and strengthen<br />
hair, providing environmental protection and preventing colour from fading while adding incredible shine. PBX ensures the True<br />
InT egrI T y of hair.<br />
PBX® surrounds and protects the colour molecule.<br />
PBX® delivers the colour molecule deep into hair with precise depth and<br />
coverage, ensuring haircolour longevity.<br />
<strong>Scruples</strong>’ nutrient-rich botanical blend beautifully conditions hair with<br />
healthy, shiny results.<br />
5
6<br />
iNVENtORY OptiONS<br />
tRUE iNtEGRitY COMPLEtE<br />
inventory all 65 shades available:<br />
• Selection includes 11 series of 59 shades plus 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades and 4 intensifiers<br />
• Colour selection is easy with no mixing required<br />
tRUE iNtEGRitY MIXInG<br />
A reduced inventory option:<br />
• the salon inventories 42 of the 65 shades available<br />
• Option of carrying 1A, 4 intensifiers and 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades<br />
• Formulas for 22 additional shades provided<br />
• Mixing option always delivers true to level, true to shade results<br />
Whether you choose to inventory all shades or select shades for mixing options, Tr u e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme is calibrated at every<br />
level for accuracy when mixing between shades within a series. All series colours are intermixable for unlimited haircolour creativity.<br />
COMPOnEntS<br />
• the Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book showcases the vast array of haircolour series and shades available<br />
• the Tru e InT e g r I T y instruction Manual provides the most complete and detailed instructions on how to use Tru e InT e g r I T y Opalescent<br />
Colour Creme<br />
• the Tru e In T e g r I T y performance (tip) Guide is a conveniently sized tool that has condensed information on the use of Tru e In T e g r I T y<br />
Opalescent Colour Creme<br />
• the Tru e InT e g r I T y Quick Reference Wall Chart displays printed colour swatches of the 11 series, 4 intensifiers, 4 pastel toner<br />
formulas and 3 Ultra Light Blonde haircolour shades
Example: Mocha 5GV<br />
LEVEL 5<br />
International Level System<br />
GOLD<br />
Primary<br />
Shade Reflection<br />
COLOUR iDENtiFiCAtiON SYStEM<br />
VIOLET<br />
Secondary Shade Reflection<br />
• the Colour Identification System is used to determine the level of a colour and the<br />
primary and secondary shades in the haircolour series<br />
• the International Level System identifies the level by using a number to<br />
represent the depth of a shade ranging from levels 1 – 10<br />
• the Shade System identifies the shade by using a letter for easy identification;<br />
if a shade has more than one letter, the first letter represents the primary shade<br />
reflected and the second letter represents the secondary shade reflected<br />
7
8<br />
COLOUR WHEEL<br />
COLOUR WHEEL<br />
the Colour Wheel identifies shades by using a letter for easy haircolour selection; this provides a visual of the haircolour shade within<br />
the theory of a colour wheel.<br />
• Corrective colour: select a haircolour shade directly across the colour wheel from the shade you want to neutralize<br />
(e.g. selecting a shade that contains copper or red neutralizes hair that is ash or green)<br />
• <strong>Hair</strong>colour enhancement: enhance a client’s haircolour by selecting a haircolour shade that compliments or contrasts<br />
— to compliment, select a haircolour shade that is 1 – 2 shades to the right or left of the client’s desired haircolour on the colour wheel<br />
— to contrast, select a haircolour shade that is directly across from the client’s desired haircolour or that is 1 – 2 shades<br />
to the left or right of the contrasting shade on the colour wheel
FASHiON NAtURAL<br />
COLOUR CREME SERiES, LEVELS AND BASES<br />
True InTegrITy Opalescent Colour Creme has 5 natural series, 6 fashion series, 4 intensifiers and 2 Ultra Light Blonde shades for a<br />
total of 65 fabulous shade selections. Custom blend a formula by mixing from 2 or more different series or by adding an intensifier.<br />
Tr u e In T e g r I T y OPalesCenT COlOur CreMe CharT<br />
Series Levels Base<br />
Neutral 1N, 2N, 3N, 4N, 5N, 6N, 7N, 8N, 9N, 10N N = Blue/Yellow/Red<br />
Neutral Warm 4NW, 5NW, 6NW, 7NW, 8NW, 9NW NW = Blue/Yellow/Yellow/Red<br />
Ash 1A, 5A, 6A, 7A, 8A, 9A, 10A 1A = Blue; 5A – 10A = Green<br />
Gold 4G, 5G, 6G, 7G, 8G, 9G, 10G G = Yellow<br />
Beige 6AG, 7AG, 8AG, 9AG AG = Green/Yellow<br />
Mocha 5GV, 6GV, 7GV, 8GV GV = Yellow/Violet<br />
Cherry Chocolate 4MG, 5MG, 6MG, 7MG, 8MG MG = Red Violet/Yellow<br />
Copper 4C, 5C, 6C, 7C, 8C C = Orange<br />
Brilliant Copper 6CC, 7CC, 8CC CC = Orange/Orange<br />
Radiant Red 4RR, 5RR, 6RR, 7RR, 8RR RR = Red/Red<br />
Merlot 3RM, 4RM, 5RM RM = Red/Red Violet<br />
Ultra Light Blonde UL-N, UL-A<br />
intensifier Yellow, Red, Red Violet, Graphite<br />
UL-N = Blue/Yellow/Red<br />
UL-A = Blue/Violet<br />
Y = Yellow R = Red<br />
RV = Red Violet G = Blue Green<br />
9
10<br />
tRUE iNtEGRitY COLOUR SWAtCHES<br />
6AG<br />
Dark Ash<br />
Gold Blonde<br />
7AG<br />
Medium Ash<br />
Gold Blonde<br />
5GV<br />
Golden<br />
Violet Brown<br />
6GV<br />
Dark Gold<br />
Violet Blonde<br />
1 /2 5GV + 1 /2 7GV
Red Violet Graphite<br />
tRUE iNtEGRitY COLOUR SWAtCHES 11
12<br />
Pur e Ox I ® CREME DEVELOpERS<br />
Pure oxI Creme Developers are fully stabilized to provide long-lasting potency and ensure optimal haircolour results. Pur e Ox I<br />
Creme Developers mix easily with Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme for a smooth, creamy consistency.<br />
there are 5 creme developer strengths available: 10C, 20C, 30C, 40C and Demi-permanent.<br />
<strong>Scruples</strong> Pure oxI Demi-Permanent Creme Developer contains a revolutionary pH adjuster that neutralizes the ammonia content<br />
in the haircolour and transforms the mixture into a deposit-only haircolour. the colour lasts 4 – 6 weeks and gradually fades from<br />
the hair. it is ideal for blending gray or creating natural results when introducing haircolour to clients. When colour balancing the<br />
ends during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle, remix the formula 1 level lighter with Pur e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme<br />
Developer for maximum tonal deposit.<br />
When using Pur e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme Developer, select a shade 1 level lighter than the desired level.<br />
the haircolour mixture becomes a deposit-only colour and will process 1 level darker than the desired shade.<br />
True InTegrIT y<br />
Colour Creme Levels<br />
Ammonia Content<br />
Pur e Ox I AMMONiA CONtENt<br />
Ammonia Content mixed<br />
with 10, 20, 30 or 40<br />
Volume Developer<br />
Ammonia Content<br />
mixed with<br />
Demi-Permanent Developer<br />
1 1.05 .42 .13<br />
2 1.15 .46 .14<br />
3 – 6 1.5 .6 .18<br />
7 – 10 2 .8 .24<br />
Ultra Light Blondes 3 1.2 – – –<br />
intensifiers 1 .4 .12
Pur e Ox I ® CREME DEVELOpERS<br />
Developer Selection Desired Results Processing time<br />
Demi-permanent (1.9%) natural results and blending gray 20 – 30 minutes<br />
10 Volume (3%)<br />
Pur e Ox I CREME DEVELOpER CHARt<br />
tone on tone or darker<br />
and gray coverage<br />
30 minutes<br />
20 Volume (6%) 1 – 2 levels of lift 35 minutes<br />
30 Volume (9%) 2 – 3 levels of lift 40 minutes<br />
40 Volume (12%) 3 – 4 levels of lift 45 – 50 minutes<br />
40 Volume (12%) Ultra Light Blondes 30 – 45 minutes<br />
All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended.<br />
True InTegrITy Opalescent Colour Creme : Pure oxI Creme Developers<br />
OUnCES GRAMS<br />
1 Part<br />
True InTegrI T y<br />
1 /4 oz<br />
1 /2 oz<br />
1.5 Parts<br />
Pure oxI<br />
3 /8 oz<br />
3 /4 oz<br />
3 /4 oz 1 1 /8 oz<br />
1 oz 1 1 /2 oz<br />
1 1 /2 oz 2 1 /4 oz<br />
2 oz 3 oz<br />
MiXiNG RAtiO GUiDE (1 : 1.5)<br />
1 Part<br />
True In T eg rI T y<br />
1.5 Parts<br />
Pure oxI<br />
8 g 12 g<br />
15 g 22 g<br />
22 g 34 g<br />
30 g 45 g<br />
45 g 68 g<br />
60 g 90 g<br />
13
14<br />
sel F -T O u r ® OF HAiRCOLOUR<br />
Self-To u r ® OF HAIRCOLOUR<br />
Self-To u r ® is a journey the artist takes with the client to explore client identity, personality and key characteristics that pertain to<br />
creating the perfect colour service. the customization of haircolour is a path that only the artist can explore with their client.<br />
the areas discovered through the sel F-TO u r ® process include:<br />
• Face shape<br />
• Skin tone and eye colour<br />
• personality<br />
• <strong>Hair</strong> analysis<br />
PRInCIPLES OF LIGHt AnD DARk SHADES<br />
identifying the face shape helps determine colour placement and the effects it will create. Keep in mind the principles of light and<br />
dark shades:<br />
Self: a person, identity, personality, quality or characteristic<br />
tour: a journey, to explore, a path or discovery<br />
• Light shades extend or maximize, drawing the eye to an area<br />
• Dark shades recede or minimize, diminishing focus on an area
FACE SHAPE AS It RELAtES tO COLOUR PLACEMEnt<br />
Colour can visually adjust and change face shape.<br />
Oval • All combinations of light and dark shade placement<br />
Round • Lighter shades in the fringe and crown add height<br />
• Lighter shades below the jaw add length<br />
• Darker shades on the sides narrow the face<br />
triangle–Up • Lighter shades on the fringe and temple areas add width<br />
sel F -T O u r ® OF HAiRCOLOUR<br />
• Darker shades on the sides from the temple to the perimeter narrow the face<br />
triangle–Down • Lighter shades on the crown add height<br />
• Darker shades on the fringe and temple narrow width<br />
• Lighter shades on the sides from the temple to the perimeter widen the face<br />
Square • Lighter shades on the fringe and crown add height and length<br />
• Darker shades on the sides narrow width<br />
Rectangle • Lighter shades on the sides add width<br />
• Darker shades on the fringe, crown and jaw line soften the length of the face<br />
15
16<br />
sel F -T O u r ® OF HAiRCOLOUR<br />
SkIn tOnE AnD EyE COLOUR<br />
Self-To u r ® includes assessing the skin tone and eye colour of the client. Categorizing the skin tone and eye colour as warm, cool or<br />
neutral provides clues to the Tru e In T e g r I T y series that best suits the client.<br />
Skin tone and Eye Colour Series Options<br />
the 3 principles of haircolour selection will determine the series and shade level:<br />
• the haircolour series and shade should compliment the skin tone<br />
• the haircolour level should contrast the skin tone; select one or more levels lighter or darker than the skin<br />
• the haircolour can contrast or compliment the eye colour<br />
NOtE: extremely light or dark haircolour on fine hair can exaggerate sparse or thin hair.<br />
CLIEnt PERSOnALIty<br />
Warm Neutral Warm, Gold, Mocha, Copper, Brilliant Copper, Cherry Chocolate<br />
Cool Neutral, Ash, Beige, Mocha, Cherry Chocolate, Radiant Red, Merlot<br />
Neutral all series<br />
the client’s personality will not determine the haircolour selection but rather the haircolour placement. the haircolour technique<br />
itself has a personality.<br />
• Understated — monochromatic haircolour selection with subtle, blended application<br />
• Overstated — multiple contrasting colours with bold haircolour techniques<br />
• Somewhere in-between — haircolour selection within the recommended series and a contrasting colour with<br />
distinct haircolour application<br />
HAIR AnALySIS<br />
the characteristics of hair density (thin or thick), physical texture (curly or smooth), chemical texture (porosity) and current style<br />
affect the haircolour selection:<br />
• Use haircolour to add texture, dimension and contour to the cut<br />
• Combinations of light and dark shades create movement and dimension<br />
• Use haircolour to emphasize facial features
True InTegrITy OPALESCEnt COLOUR CREME PROCEDURE<br />
COLOUR pROCEDURE<br />
1. Self-Tour: reveal the client’s personal characteristics by observing their face shape, skin tone, eye colour and personality as well as analyzing<br />
their hair. From the se l F-TO u r discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level (lightness/darkness) that best suits<br />
the client. the Tr u e In T e g r I Ty Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book provides the client with a beautiful visual of the series and level options<br />
recommended.<br />
2. Determine the client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the Tr u e In T e g r I Ty performance (tip) Guide. Refer to the Gray Coverage<br />
procedure (page 18) if the hair is 25 – 100% gray.<br />
3. Select the desired series and shade level: refer to the Tr u e In T e g r I Ty Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book or Colour Swatches (page 10 and 11).<br />
4. Select the volume of developer: refer to the Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer Chart to determine desired result.<br />
Pur e Ox I CREME DEVELOpER CHARt<br />
Developer Selection Desired Results Processing time<br />
Demi-permanent (1.9%) natural results and blending gray 20 – 30 minutes<br />
10 Volume (3%) tone on tone or darker and gray coverage* 30 minutes<br />
20 Volume (6%) 1 – 2 levels of lift 35 minutes<br />
30 Volume (9%) 2 – 3 levels of lift 40 minutes<br />
40 Volume (12%) 3 – 4 levels of lift 45 – 50 minutes<br />
40 Volume (12%) Ultra Light Blondes 30 – 45 minutes<br />
*Always use Pur e Ox I 10 Volume Creme Developer for superior gray coverage when no lift is desired. Use Pur e Ox I 20, 30 or 40<br />
Volume Creme Developer if lift is desired.<br />
Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit.<br />
All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended.<br />
5. Mixing Ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Colour Creme and 1.5 oz/45 g Pu r e Ox I<br />
Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing Ratio Guide (page 13).<br />
6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. to ensure thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of the haircolour mixture.<br />
Use a virgin or retouch application procedure.<br />
7. Processing: refer to the Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer Chart for processing times. Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for<br />
30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. Levels 7 and darker can process with or without heat. All developers can<br />
be processed with heat. processing with heat provides a deeper deposit of colour and reduces processing time. A strand test is recommended.<br />
8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. if the original haircolour mixture uses Pu r e Ox I 20,<br />
30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pu r e Ox I 10 Volume Creme or Demi-permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1<br />
level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit.<br />
9. Removal: shampoo twice with Wh I Te Te a Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply <strong>Scruples</strong> nO h2O2 (No peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH,<br />
remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage hair with Wh I Te Te a<br />
Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.<br />
17
18<br />
GRAY COVERAGE<br />
GRAy COVERAGE PROCEDURE<br />
1. Self-Tour: from the se l F-TO u r discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level that best suits the client.<br />
2. Determine the client’s percentage of gray<br />
Percentage of Gray Desired Shade Addition of n, nW or G<br />
0 – 25% gray 100% desired shade – – –<br />
25 – 100% gray N, NW or G – – –<br />
25 – 100% gray 75% desired shade 25% N, NW or G at the same level<br />
GRAy HAIR at levels 8, 9 and 10 75% desired shade 25% N, NW or G at level 7*<br />
* Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 requires additional level 7 n, nW or G to provide complete gray coverage. process with heat for<br />
30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit.<br />
3. neutral, neutral Warm or Gold adjustment results:<br />
• Add N to a shade that is cool or if no additional warmth is desired<br />
• Add NW to a shade when a slight amount of warmth is desired<br />
• Add G to a shade when gold will enhance the selected colour<br />
Series n (cool) nW (warm) G (gold)<br />
Neutral X X X<br />
Neutral Warm – – – X X<br />
Ash X – – – – – –<br />
Gold X X – – –<br />
Beige X – – – – – –<br />
Mocha X X – – –<br />
Cherry Chocolate X X X<br />
Copper – – – X X<br />
Brilliant Copper – – – X X<br />
Radiant Red X X – – –<br />
Merlot X X – – –
GRAY COVERAGE MiXiNG pROpORtiONS<br />
75% Desired Shade<br />
25% n, nW or G<br />
75% 3 /8 oz 12 g<br />
25% 1 /8 oz 4 g<br />
total 1 /2 oz 16 g<br />
75% 1 /2 oz 16 g<br />
25% 1 /4 oz 6 g<br />
total 3 /4 oz 22 g<br />
75% 3 /4 oz 22 g<br />
25% 1 /4 oz 8 g<br />
total 1 oz 30 g<br />
75% 1 1 /8 oz 34 g<br />
25% 3 /8 oz 12 g<br />
total 1 1 /2 oz 46 g<br />
75% 1 1 /2 oz 44 g<br />
25% 1 /2 oz 16 g<br />
total 2 oz 60 g<br />
4. Gray coverge mixing proportions: if adjusting the desired shade is<br />
necessary, measure 75% of the desired shade and 25% of the N, NW<br />
or G shade at the same level as the desired haircolour shade.<br />
5. Mixing ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pur e OxI Creme<br />
Developer). Measure 0.75 oz/22 g desired shade : 0.25 oz/8 g N<br />
or NW : 1.5 oz/45 g Pur e Ox I Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing<br />
Ratio Guide (page 13).<br />
6. Developer selection: always use Pur e Ox I 10 Volume Creme Developer<br />
for gray coverage when the hair is more than 25% gray or if the desired<br />
shade is the same natural level or darker. When gray coverage requires lift<br />
use Pur e Ox I 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer. Refer to Pur e Ox I<br />
Creme Developer Chart (page 17).<br />
7. Apply to unwashed, dry hair: use a virgin or retouch application<br />
procedure. Apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture to ensure<br />
thorough saturation.<br />
8. Processing: refer to the Pur e Ox I Creme Developer Chart (page 17)<br />
for recommended processing times.<br />
NOtE: for resistant gray hair, process with heat to provide deeper haircolour<br />
deposit and maximum gray coverage.<br />
9. Colour balancing gray coverage: refresh the ends as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. if the haircolour<br />
formula was mixed with Pur e Ox I 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pur e Ox I 10 Volume or<br />
Demi-permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1 level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit.<br />
NOtE: formulas that have additional N, NW or G require remixing the desired formula without N, NW or G. if the formula with<br />
the additional shade is applied to the ends, it may produce drab results on hair that already contains permanent haircolour.<br />
10. Removal: shampoo twice with WhI T e Te a Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply <strong>Scruples</strong> nO h2O2 (No peroxide) to<br />
adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and<br />
rinse. Massage hair with WhI T e Te a Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.<br />
GRAY COVERAGE<br />
19
20<br />
iNtENSiFiERS<br />
Model: Marie, Natural Level 4 | Base Colour: Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme –<br />
Level 5 Radiant Red (5RR) + Red Violet intensifier<br />
IntEnSIFIERS<br />
True InTegrIT y Opalescent Colour Creme Intensifiers are used to<br />
enhance selected series or correct undesirable tones in hair. intensifiers<br />
should never exceed 10 – 25% of a haircolour formula. the chart below<br />
indicates which intensifier is best suited for each series. Use Yellow to<br />
intensify gold tones and add brightness, Red to intensify orange and red<br />
tones, Red Violet to intensify red and red violet tones and Graphite to<br />
cancel unwanted red, orange and gold tones in hair. Adding an intensifier<br />
to a formula does not require additional developer. Simply mix the colour<br />
creme and selected developer using a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio; then add the<br />
selected intensifier.<br />
InTensIFIer CharT<br />
Intensifier Enhance neutralize<br />
yellow up to 25%<br />
of haircolour formula<br />
Red up to 25%<br />
of haircolour formula<br />
Red Violet up to 25%<br />
of haircolour formula<br />
Graphite<br />
• levels 1 – 5 up to 25%<br />
of haircolour formula<br />
• levels 6 – 7 up to 10%<br />
of haircolour formula<br />
(not recommended for<br />
levels 8 or higher)<br />
Neutral, Neutral Warm,<br />
Gold, Mocha, Copper<br />
and Brilliant Copper<br />
Mocha, Cherry Chocolate,<br />
Copper, Brilliant Copper,<br />
Radiant Red and Merlot<br />
Mocha, Cherry Chocolate,<br />
Radiant Red and Merlot<br />
- - -<br />
- - -<br />
- - -<br />
- - -<br />
Neutral, Ash<br />
and Beige<br />
levels 1 – 7<br />
NOtE: intensifiers should not exceed 25% of a haircolour formula (i.e. 1 oz/30 g<br />
Colour Creme : 1.5 oz/45 g Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer : 0.25 oz/15 g intensifier).<br />
Tr u e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme intensifiers are added to a formula to create<br />
colour intensity and should NOt be used as 100% of a haircolour formula.
PAStEL tOnERS<br />
pAStEL tONERS AND SHEER COVERAGE OptiONS<br />
True In T egr IT y Opalescent Colour Creme offers formulas to create Pastel toners. the selection includes 4 shades: Neutral,<br />
Ash, Gold and Mocha.<br />
the Pastel toner formulas require a 1 : 4 mixing ratio (1 part Colour Creme : 4 parts Pu r e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme Developer).<br />
Measure 1 /2 oz/15 g Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pur e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme Developer. this unique mixing ratio creates a toner<br />
with a translucent effect on prelightenend hair. the hair has a pastel blonde tone with incredible shine and silky condition. Apply to<br />
prelightened, damp hair. process 5 – 20 minutes; a test strand is recommended.<br />
SHEER COVERAGE OPtIOnS<br />
Mixing ratios can be adjusted with increased amounts of demi-permanent<br />
creme developer to vary the amount of coverage achieved. When the<br />
mixing ratio of developer increases beyond the recommended 1.5 parts,<br />
the dye load becomes more sheer. Using a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio provides<br />
maximum dye load for complete coverage. By increasing the amount of<br />
demi-permanent creme developer used, the dye load is sheered from<br />
100% coverage to 25% coverage. See the Mixing Ratio Coverage Chart (right). Pur e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme Developer is<br />
used for sheer coverage options because it won’t create underlying tone in the selected haircolour.<br />
Example: a client who is a natural level 4 desires a golden tone in the hair. Use a 1 : 3 mixing ratio for a moderate amount of<br />
haircolour deposit. Measure 1 /2 oz/16 g 4G and 1 1 /2 oz /46 g Pur e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme Developer. the amount of colour<br />
deposited on the hair will be 50% more sheer and will add a gold cast to the hair.<br />
MIxIng raTIO COVerage CharT<br />
Mixing Ratio Coverage Dye Load<br />
1 : 1.5 100% Maximum<br />
1 : 2 75% intermediate<br />
1 : 3 50% Medium<br />
1 : 4 25% Minimum<br />
Use Pu r e Ox I Demi-permanent Creme Developer OnLy<br />
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20 22 ULtRA LiGHt BLONDES<br />
Model: AJ, Natural Level 7 | Base Colour: Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme –<br />
Ultra Light Neutral + Low Light: Bla z I n g lO W lI g h T s – Brown Sugar<br />
ULtRA LIGHt BLOnDES PROCEDURE<br />
1. Self-To u r: from the sel F-TO u r discovery, recommend the series (neutral,<br />
neutral-ash or ash) that best suits the client.<br />
2. Determine client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the Tru e<br />
InT e g r I T y performance (tip) Guide. if the hair is less than 50% gray and<br />
is a level 4 or lighter, Ultra Light Blondes are recommended. Natural levels<br />
4 and 5 will attain 2 – 3 levels of lift. Natural levels 6 or lighter will attain<br />
4 – 5 levels of lift. Ultra Light Blondes are not recommended for hair that<br />
is 50% or more gray. Ultra Light Blondes will not lift or lighten previously<br />
deposited permanent haircolour.<br />
3. Select the desired Ultra Light Blonde shade: refer to the Tru e In T e g r I T y<br />
Opalescent Colour Creme Ultra Light Blonde swatches.<br />
4. Volume of developer: use only Pur e Ox I 40 Volume Creme Developer.<br />
Refer to the Pur e Ox I Creme Developer Chart (page 17).<br />
5. Mixing ratio: 1 : 2 for maximum lift (1 part Colour Creme : 2 parts Pur e<br />
OxI 40 Volume Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Ultra Light Blonde<br />
Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pur e Ox I 40 Volume Creme Developer.<br />
Use a 1 : 1.5 mixing ratio for maximum tonal deposit (1 part Colour Creme<br />
: 1.5 parts Pur e Ox I 40 Volume Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g<br />
Tru e In T e g r I T y Ultra Light Blonde Colour Creme : 1.5 oz/45 g Pur e Ox I<br />
40 Volume Creme Developer.<br />
6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. to ensure<br />
thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture. Use a<br />
virgin or retouch application method.<br />
7. Process: 30 – 45 minutes at room temperature. Ultra Light Blondes can<br />
process with heat. Using heat reduces the processing time; a strand test is<br />
recommended.<br />
8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of<br />
the processing cycle. When colour balancing the ends, select a pastel toner<br />
formula that best replicates the Ultra Light Blonde shade.<br />
nOtE: colour balancing the ends with an Ultra Light Blonde shade is not<br />
recommended; the concentration of pigment results in an over-deposit and<br />
an off-tone shade.<br />
9. Removal: shampoo twice with Wh I T e Te a Sulfate Free Restorative<br />
Shampoo. Apply <strong>Scruples</strong> NO H2O2 (No peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH,<br />
remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, condition and seal in shine. Leave<br />
on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage WhI T e Te a Restorative Conditioner<br />
from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.
REPIGMEntAtIOn PROCEDURE<br />
REpiGMENtAtiON pROCEDURE<br />
Repigmentation is the process of replacing underlying tone missing in hair that has been lightened. if the desired haircolour level is<br />
3 or more levels darker than the current colourtreated hair, follow the repigmentation procedure.<br />
1. Select the repigmentation formula at the same level as the desired haircolour shade.<br />
2. Mix the selected formula using a 1 : 2 mixing ratio (1 oz/30 g Colour Creme : 2 oz/60 g Pur e OxI Demi–permanent Creme<br />
Developer). if the hair is excessively porous use a 1 : 3 mixing ratio.<br />
3. Apply the haircolour mixture to colourtreated, dry, unwashed hair.<br />
4. Process: 10 – 15 minutes, checking frequently.<br />
5. Shampoo hair: once to remove haircolour. towel–blot gently and dry hair.<br />
6. Mixing ratio for desired haircolour shade: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme : 1.5 parts Pur e Ox I Creme Developer).<br />
7. Apply desired haircolour shade: apply a generous amount of haircolour mixture to ensure thorough saturation.<br />
8. Processing: 15 – 30 minutes, checking frequently.<br />
9. Removal: shampoo once with WhI T e Tea Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply <strong>Scruples</strong> nO h2O2 (No peroxide) to<br />
adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and<br />
rinse. Massage hair with WhI T e Te a Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse.<br />
rePIgMenTaTIOn FOrMula CharT<br />
Desired Colour Level Replacement of Underlying tone Repigmentation Formula<br />
10, 9 and 8 Lightest–Light Blondes Yellow 9G<br />
7 Medium Blonde Yellow-Orange 50% 8G + 50% 8C<br />
6 Dark Blonde Orange 75% 6C + 25% 7G<br />
5 Brown Red-Orange 6C<br />
4 Medium Brown Red 5C<br />
3 Dark Brown Violet-Red 4RR<br />
2 Darkest Brown Violet 75% 2N + 25% 4RR<br />
1 Black Black-Violet 75% 1N + 25% 4RR<br />
NOtE: perform a strand test to determine proper colour selection and timing.<br />
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Cover Model: Stephanie, Natural Level 4<br />
ALL HAIRCOLOUR USED: Tru e In T e g r I T y Opalescent Colour Creme | Base Colour: Level 4 Merlot (4RM)<br />
Highlight Colour: Level 7 Brilliant Copper (7CC) | Low Light Blend: Level 2 Neutral (2N) + Level 4 Copper (4C)<br />
Styled with cocktail of Enforce Extra Firm Sculpting Glaze + Dual Design Gel/Wax<br />
<strong>Scruples</strong> Inc., Dist. | 8231 214th Street West | Minneapolis, MN 55044-9009<br />
office 1.800.457.0016 | technical assistance 1.888.<strong>Scruples</strong> (727.8753) | www.scrupleshaircare.com<br />
printed in USA 728900-1 709