InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL - Scruples Hair Care Products

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16 sel F -T O u r ® OF HAiRCOLOUR SkIn tOnE AnD EyE COLOUR Self-To u r ® includes assessing the skin tone and eye colour of the client. Categorizing the skin tone and eye colour as warm, cool or neutral provides clues to the Tru e In T e g r I T y series that best suits the client. Skin tone and Eye Colour Series Options the 3 principles of haircolour selection will determine the series and shade level: • the haircolour series and shade should compliment the skin tone • the haircolour level should contrast the skin tone; select one or more levels lighter or darker than the skin • the haircolour can contrast or compliment the eye colour NOtE: extremely light or dark haircolour on fine hair can exaggerate sparse or thin hair. CLIEnt PERSOnALIty Warm Neutral Warm, Gold, Mocha, Copper, Brilliant Copper, Cherry Chocolate Cool Neutral, Ash, Beige, Mocha, Cherry Chocolate, Radiant Red, Merlot Neutral all series the client’s personality will not determine the haircolour selection but rather the haircolour placement. the haircolour technique itself has a personality. • Understated — monochromatic haircolour selection with subtle, blended application • Overstated — multiple contrasting colours with bold haircolour techniques • Somewhere in-between — haircolour selection within the recommended series and a contrasting colour with distinct haircolour application HAIR AnALySIS the characteristics of hair density (thin or thick), physical texture (curly or smooth), chemical texture (porosity) and current style affect the haircolour selection: • Use haircolour to add texture, dimension and contour to the cut • Combinations of light and dark shades create movement and dimension • Use haircolour to emphasize facial features
True InTegrITy OPALESCEnt COLOUR CREME PROCEDURE COLOUR pROCEDURE 1. Self-Tour: reveal the client’s personal characteristics by observing their face shape, skin tone, eye colour and personality as well as analyzing their hair. From the se l F-TO u r discovery, recommend the series (warm, cool or neutral; page 16) and level (lightness/darkness) that best suits the client. the Tr u e In T e g r I Ty Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book provides the client with a beautiful visual of the series and level options recommended. 2. Determine the client’s natural level and percentage of gray: utilize the Tr u e In T e g r I Ty performance (tip) Guide. Refer to the Gray Coverage procedure (page 18) if the hair is 25 – 100% gray. 3. Select the desired series and shade level: refer to the Tr u e In T e g r I Ty Opalescent Colour Creme Swatch Book or Colour Swatches (page 10 and 11). 4. Select the volume of developer: refer to the Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer Chart to determine desired result. Pur e Ox I CREME DEVELOpER CHARt Developer Selection Desired Results Processing time Demi-permanent (1.9%) natural results and blending gray 20 – 30 minutes 10 Volume (3%) tone on tone or darker and gray coverage* 30 minutes 20 Volume (6%) 1 – 2 levels of lift 35 minutes 30 Volume (9%) 2 – 3 levels of lift 40 minutes 40 Volume (12%) 3 – 4 levels of lift 45 – 50 minutes 40 Volume (12%) Ultra Light Blondes 30 – 45 minutes *Always use Pur e Ox I 10 Volume Creme Developer for superior gray coverage when no lift is desired. Use Pur e Ox I 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer if lift is desired. Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. All developers can process with heat. Using heat reduces processing time and provides deeper haircolour deposit. A strand test is recommended. 5. Mixing Ratio: 1 : 1.5 (1 part Colour Creme to 1.5 parts Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer). Measure 1 oz/30 g Colour Creme and 1.5 oz/45 g Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer. Refer to the Mixing Ratio Guide (page 13). 6. Apply: using a bowl and brush, apply to unwashed, dry hair. to ensure thorough saturation, apply a generous amount of the haircolour mixture. Use a virgin or retouch application procedure. 7. Processing: refer to the Pu r e Ox I Creme Developer Chart for processing times. Gray hair at levels 8, 9 and 10 should process with heat for 30 minutes with a 5-minute cool down for optimal haircolour deposit. Levels 7 and darker can process with or without heat. All developers can be processed with heat. processing with heat provides a deeper deposit of colour and reduces processing time. A strand test is recommended. 8. Colour balance the ends: as needed during the last 5 – 10 minutes of the processing cycle. if the original haircolour mixture uses Pu r e Ox I 20, 30 or 40 Volume Creme Developer, remix the formula with Pu r e Ox I 10 Volume Creme or Demi-permanent Creme Developer (select shade 1 level lighter) for maximum tonal deposit. 9. Removal: shampoo twice with Wh I Te Te a Sulfate Free Restorative Shampoo. Apply <strong>Scruples</strong> nO h2O2 (No peroxide) to adjust the hair’s pH, remove residual peroxide, protect the hair, and seal in condition and shine. Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse. Massage hair with Wh I Te Te a Restorative Conditioner from scalp to ends. Leave on 1 – 3 minutes and rinse. 17
Page 1 and 2: InStRUCtIOn MAnUAL
Page 3 and 4: • the reflection of a translucent
Page 5 and 6: Scruples’ nutrient-rich botanical
Page 7 and 8: Example: Mocha 5GV LEVEL 5 Internat
Page 9 and 10: FASHiON NAtURAL COLOUR CREME SERiES
Page 11 and 12: Red Violet Graphite tRUE iNtEGRitY
Page 13 and 14: Pur e Ox I ® CREME DEVELOpERS Deve
Page 15: FACE SHAPE AS It RELAtES tO COLOUR
Page 19 and 20: GRAY COVERAGE MiXiNG pROpORtiONS 75
Page 21 and 22: PAStEL tOnERS pAStEL tONERS AND SHE
Page 23 and 24: REPIGMEntAtIOn PROCEDURE REpiGMENtA

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