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11<br />
is the rock temple of Galvihara<br />
on the northern edge of Alahana<br />
Parivena. It was a shrine created by<br />
Parakramabahu I, the central feature<br />
of which is four images, probably<br />
all of the Buddha, carved into<br />
the face of a massive granite rock.<br />
These include an enormous<br />
recumbent figure, a large standing<br />
figure, one seated cross-legged<br />
and another seated inside an artificial<br />
cavern. The remains of<br />
brick walls suggest that originally<br />
each had its own image house.<br />
The lavish scale of the growth<br />
and development of Polonnaruwa<br />
under Parakramabahu I and<br />
Nissankamalla impoverished the<br />
city and, when Nissankamalla died<br />
without a designated heir, chaos<br />
ensued. Renewed fighting with<br />
the Tamils led to looting and the<br />
eventual destruction of the city.<br />
It was abandoned as a capital in<br />
AD 1293 and the Sinhalese migrated<br />
south, establishing capitals at<br />
Yapahuwa, Kurunegala, Gampola<br />
and Dedigma.<br />
The following three or four centuries<br />
represent a complex and<br />
disordered period in Sri Lankan history<br />
in which different factions vied<br />
for power and the island was vulnerable<br />
to attack by invaders from<br />
China, Malaya and Burma.<br />
In the midst of this, the Tamils,<br />
whose numbers had grown significantly,<br />
set up an independent kingdom<br />
in the north of the island,<br />
centred on Jaffna. The Dedigma<br />
kings were eclipsed by a new set<br />
of rulers based in the city of Kotte<br />
on the west coast, and the monarchy<br />
based in Gampola moved to<br />
an obscure town in the hills called<br />
Senkadagala. The latter subsequently<br />
became known as Kandy,<br />
11. The Thuparama is<br />
the oldest dagoba<br />
in Anuradhapura.<br />
Reconstructed during<br />
the 19th century, it<br />
was originally built<br />
to protect the right<br />
collarbone of the<br />
Buddha, which was<br />
brought to the city in<br />
the 3rd century BC.<br />
Photo: Ray Dunning.<br />
12. Another reclining<br />
Buddha, one of 153<br />
statues of the Buddha<br />
at Dambulla. There<br />
are also three statues<br />
of Sri Lankan kings<br />
and four of deities,<br />
including Hindu<br />
gods. 1st century<br />
BC, repaired and<br />
repainted during<br />
the 11th, 12th and<br />
18th centuries.<br />
Photo: Ray Dunning.<br />
home of the last independent<br />
Sinhalese kingdom on the island<br />
from 1592. It remained independent<br />
and survived two centuries of<br />
colonial incursions before finally<br />
falling to the British in 1815.<br />
As the capital, Kandy became<br />
home to the Tooth Relic following<br />
a 4th-century tradition that placed<br />
a responsibility on the Sinhalese<br />
monarchy to protect this physical<br />
remnant of the Buddha. Hence<br />
the Temple of the Tooth Relic was<br />
built originally as part of the Royal<br />
Palace complex. The palace, which<br />
now houses the National Museum<br />
of Kandy, was the last to be built in<br />
Sri Lanka.<br />
Today Kandy is both an administrative<br />
and religious centre. It is<br />
one of the most venerable places in<br />
the world for Buddhist pilgrimage<br />
and it perpetuates rituals and ageold<br />
traditions that remain an integral<br />
part of the life of the people.<br />
These reach a climax in August on<br />
the night of the full moon when<br />
everyone turns out to pay homage<br />
to the Sacred Tooth as it is paraded<br />
12<br />
through the streets.<br />
It was this synthesis of living tradition<br />
with the physical remains of<br />
the Kingdom of Kandy, more than<br />
consideration for any particular site,<br />
which led to the city’s inclusion in<br />
the Cultural Triangle Project. Hence<br />
the restoration work involves not<br />
only excavation and restoration but<br />
also the clearing of modern accretions<br />
and work to return the inner<br />
city to its original glory.<br />
Given the problems which continue<br />
to afflict the far north of Sri<br />
Lanka, it is important to note that<br />
the UN’s involvement with the<br />
island is not restricted to preserving<br />
the material remains of the past.<br />
The UN Development Programme<br />
also supports many projects to help<br />
the country meet its own development<br />
goals, to reduce poverty and<br />
to foster peace and recovery.<br />
That said, the Cultural Triangle<br />
Project is important, not only to<br />
preserve for posterity the remains of<br />
one of Asia’s longest-lasting civilisations,<br />
but also for the future economy<br />
of the country. n<br />
Minerva January/February 2013<br />
49