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11<br />

is the rock temple of Galvihara<br />

on the northern edge of Alahana<br />

Parivena. It was a shrine created by<br />

Parakramabahu I, the central feature<br />

of which is four images, probably<br />

all of the Buddha, carved into<br />

the face of a massive granite rock.<br />

These include an enormous<br />

recumbent figure, a large standing<br />

figure, one seated cross-legged<br />

and another seated inside an artificial<br />

cavern. The remains of<br />

brick walls suggest that originally<br />

each had its own image house.<br />

The lavish scale of the growth<br />

and development of Polonnaruwa<br />

under Parakramabahu I and<br />

Nissankamalla impoverished the<br />

city and, when Nissankamalla died<br />

without a designated heir, chaos<br />

ensued. Renewed fighting with<br />

the Tamils led to looting and the<br />

eventual destruction of the city.<br />

It was abandoned as a capital in<br />

AD 1293 and the Sinhalese migrated<br />

south, establishing capitals at<br />

Yapahuwa, Kurunegala, Gampola<br />

and Dedigma.<br />

The following three or four centuries<br />

represent a complex and<br />

disordered period in Sri Lankan history<br />

in which different factions vied<br />

for power and the island was vulnerable<br />

to attack by invaders from<br />

China, Malaya and Burma.<br />

In the midst of this, the Tamils,<br />

whose numbers had grown significantly,<br />

set up an independent kingdom<br />

in the north of the island,<br />

centred on Jaffna. The Dedigma<br />

kings were eclipsed by a new set<br />

of rulers based in the city of Kotte<br />

on the west coast, and the monarchy<br />

based in Gampola moved to<br />

an obscure town in the hills called<br />

Senkadagala. The latter subsequently<br />

became known as Kandy,<br />

11. The Thuparama is<br />

the oldest dagoba<br />

in Anuradhapura.<br />

Reconstructed during<br />

the 19th century, it<br />

was originally built<br />

to protect the right<br />

collarbone of the<br />

Buddha, which was<br />

brought to the city in<br />

the 3rd century BC.<br />

Photo: Ray Dunning.<br />

12. Another reclining<br />

Buddha, one of 153<br />

statues of the Buddha<br />

at Dambulla. There<br />

are also three statues<br />

of Sri Lankan kings<br />

and four of deities,<br />

including Hindu<br />

gods. 1st century<br />

BC, repaired and<br />

repainted during<br />

the 11th, 12th and<br />

18th centuries.<br />

Photo: Ray Dunning.<br />

home of the last independent<br />

Sinhalese kingdom on the island<br />

from 1592. It remained independent<br />

and survived two centuries of<br />

colonial incursions before finally<br />

falling to the British in 1815.<br />

As the capital, Kandy became<br />

home to the Tooth Relic following<br />

a 4th-century tradition that placed<br />

a responsibility on the Sinhalese<br />

monarchy to protect this physical<br />

remnant of the Buddha. Hence<br />

the Temple of the Tooth Relic was<br />

built originally as part of the Royal<br />

Palace complex. The palace, which<br />

now houses the National Museum<br />

of Kandy, was the last to be built in<br />

Sri Lanka.<br />

Today Kandy is both an administrative<br />

and religious centre. It is<br />

one of the most venerable places in<br />

the world for Buddhist pilgrimage<br />

and it perpetuates rituals and ageold<br />

traditions that remain an integral<br />

part of the life of the people.<br />

These reach a climax in August on<br />

the night of the full moon when<br />

everyone turns out to pay homage<br />

to the Sacred Tooth as it is paraded<br />

12<br />

through the streets.<br />

It was this synthesis of living tradition<br />

with the physical remains of<br />

the Kingdom of Kandy, more than<br />

consideration for any particular site,<br />

which led to the city’s inclusion in<br />

the Cultural Triangle Project. Hence<br />

the restoration work involves not<br />

only excavation and restoration but<br />

also the clearing of modern accretions<br />

and work to return the inner<br />

city to its original glory.<br />

Given the problems which continue<br />

to afflict the far north of Sri<br />

Lanka, it is important to note that<br />

the UN’s involvement with the<br />

island is not restricted to preserving<br />

the material remains of the past.<br />

The UN Development Programme<br />

also supports many projects to help<br />

the country meet its own development<br />

goals, to reduce poverty and<br />

to foster peace and recovery.<br />

That said, the Cultural Triangle<br />

Project is important, not only to<br />

preserve for posterity the remains of<br />

one of Asia’s longest-lasting civilisations,<br />

but also for the future economy<br />

of the country. n<br />

Minerva January/February 2013<br />

49

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