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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2013<br />

Precession Of Hipsters<br />

Atli Bollason is a professional bohemian.<br />

10<br />

MAY<br />

NEWS IN BRIEF<br />

– Continued –<br />

cover most of the costs of care. The<br />

agreement is being implemented<br />

in stages over the course of the<br />

year, starting with the most atrisk-for-cavities<br />

age group—15<br />

to 17—what with all the nammi and<br />

Coke they consume.<br />

The ever-growing number<br />

of tourists has brought<br />

economic prosperity and a<br />

whole lot of fun or dullness to<br />

town, depending on who you<br />

ask. But what is the new face of<br />

Reykjavík doing to the hipster in<br />

the mirror<br />

The number of tourists<br />

in Iceland has grown by<br />

110% since 2003. And the<br />

summer of 2013 is sure<br />

to break all records; so<br />

far, the year has seen a<br />

45.5% increase compared<br />

to 2012—if the trend<br />

continues we’ll break<br />

the 900,000 tourist-wall<br />

only seven years after<br />

we broke the 400,000 one.<br />

This is apparent to anyone<br />

who spends time downtown:<br />

whole families clad in Gore-<br />

Tex from head to toe, euro-hippie<br />

couples with backpacks, psychedelic<br />

head scarves and frowzy<br />

beards, and packs of young stock brokers<br />

with thousands of dollars to burn on<br />

drugs and alcohol grace the streets of 101<br />

Reykjavík like never before. Moreover, they do<br />

so all year round, even in November and February.<br />

Why do these people come here For nature,<br />

primarily, but secondarily for something<br />

we could term the Reykjavík hip scene (I’m using<br />

‘hip’ and ‘hipster’ here in a non-derogatory<br />

fashion, loosely denoting a young and stylish<br />

crowd that likes art, loves parties and doesn’t<br />

seem to worry too much about things like politics<br />

and money). They have heard about the<br />

long and rowdy Reykjavík bar-nights, they have<br />

read something positive about our art and music<br />

somewhere and now they want to experience<br />

it first-hand.<br />

WE ARE SELF-<br />

CONSCIOUS<br />

At this point, the hipsters of Reykjavík know<br />

very well how they have been presented to the<br />

outside world. Journalists from fancy magazines<br />

have come here, perceived us as a bit<br />

wacky, quite uninhibited, extremely creative,<br />

and waxed poetic about it all to readers across<br />

the world. There exists, now, a somewhat approved<br />

image of the Icelandic hipster. The result<br />

We are self-conscious.<br />

See, there is some sort of gold rush happening<br />

in town; new hostels and hotels and<br />

tour offices and tourist-what-have-yous seem<br />

to open every week. And perhaps this mentality<br />

has seeped into our behavioural systems.<br />

More and more, it seems like we are playing a<br />

role. We act and dress as if Laugavegur were<br />

Bedford Avenue. We throw countless afterparties<br />

for anyone and everyone. We feel obliged<br />

to show tourists a splendid time in the proper,<br />

prescribed fashion. In other words, we put on<br />

a show, the very show that tourists have paid<br />

good money to come and see. The scene feels<br />

eerily like a stage these days.<br />

Illustration: Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir<br />

WE ARE THE<br />

SIMULACRA<br />

I was going to try not to evoke<br />

this term, but it seems like ol’<br />

Baudrillard pretty much nailed<br />

what’s going on with his concept<br />

of the simulacra: We are copies of<br />

an original that doesn’t exist anymore—it<br />

probably never existed<br />

outside the minds of partying media<br />

representatives high on Sigur<br />

Rós’ golden whale tears—proliferating<br />

points on the Borgesian<br />

map.<br />

So far, we’re doing a very<br />

good job and everybody just<br />

seems to be enjoying themselves.<br />

The trade-off is fair<br />

enough: Just play the role and the<br />

tourists will smile. You don’t really<br />

make a profit (a beer or two, a joint<br />

perhaps) but making someone smile<br />

is always worth it; hell—you might<br />

make a friend for life. One cannot help but<br />

wonder though if with time this new identity<br />

will take on a life of its own, one separate<br />

from our ‘true selves,’ but still stick—like a mask<br />

super-glued to your face.<br />

WE ARE ON<br />

THE SCENE<br />

Of course, upon closer inspection you realise<br />

this is only postmodern business as usual.<br />

‘Scene’ literally means ‘stage’ goddammit, so<br />

being ‘on the scene’ means being on stage. So<br />

maybe what I’m describing is only the stale core<br />

of the hipster debate itself: Those who ‘play the<br />

role’ are non-hip ‘hipsters’ and those who don’t<br />

give a shit and are ‘authentic’ are plain cool.<br />

But this distinction is false and impossible to<br />

gauge. Moreover, such a view prioritises the<br />

‘real,’ the ‘natural,’ the ‘authentic,’ the ‘organic,’<br />

the ‘original’—it imposes a hierarchy I’ve never<br />

understood because fake can be just as good.<br />

Sometimes it’s better.<br />

All of which is to say that while this may be<br />

happening, I’m not afraid. I don’t think playing<br />

this game is a symptom of us consciously or<br />

unconsciously heeding the market’s desires. I<br />

don’t even think it signifies a watering-down of<br />

the true coolness that gave us our rep to begin<br />

with. Rather, I think we didn’t quite recognise<br />

ourselves in the pink gleam of the media-mirror—who<br />

were all those awesome, crazy, artistic<br />

and friendly people anyway—and just<br />

wanted to look a bit more like them.<br />

Breast health was also a hot topic<br />

after CEO and co-founder of de-<br />

CODE genetics Inc. Kári Stefánssson<br />

announced that his company<br />

has coded information about 2,400<br />

Icelanders with the breast cancer<br />

gene, BRCA2, of which he said<br />

about half are women with an 80%<br />

likelihood of developing breast<br />

cancer. He would like to inform<br />

carriers in order for them to make<br />

an informed health decision, while<br />

public health authorities are resistant<br />

to allow this due to privacy<br />

concerns.<br />

As the world<br />

celebrated<br />

May 17 as the<br />

anniversar y<br />

of the declassification<br />

of<br />

homosexuality as a psychiatric<br />

disorder, the International Gay<br />

& Lesbian Association published<br />

the Rainbow Europe Package<br />

report which ranked Iceland<br />

in tenth place for gay and trans<br />

rights. The scores were marked<br />

out of 100% of which Iceland received<br />

56%, prompting the president<br />

of Samtökin ’78 to state that<br />

more work is needed here for recognising<br />

LGBTI issues and rights.<br />

Sweden scored 66% on the same<br />

report and proudly displayed and<br />

supported gay rights at the annual<br />

Eurovision song contest, with not<br />

one but two same-sex wedding<br />

scenarios! Iceland’s contestant<br />

Eyþór Ingi made it into the finals<br />

with the mother-language<br />

power-ballad “Ég<br />

á líf” but it proved<br />

not to stand a<br />

chance next to<br />

Denmark’s panflute<br />

infused pop<br />

tune “Only Teardrops.”<br />

Finally there were the American<br />

tourists who felt it would be a wise<br />

idea to have a picnic on the edge<br />

of an ice sheet. As luck would<br />

have it, the chunk of ice they were<br />

eating on then broke off and floated<br />

away. A rescue team was deployed<br />

and found them calmly sitting there<br />

as the ice floe drifted 10 metres<br />

from the shore, seemingly oblivious<br />

to the extreme danger they<br />

were in. They<br />

were safely<br />

rescued, but<br />

their picnic<br />

was ruined.<br />

The National Museum of Iceland<br />

celebrates its 150th anniversary 2013.<br />

Along with the permanent exhibition that features<br />

Iceland’s history from settlement to present day the<br />

museum will offer a variety of exhibitions during the<br />

year, e.g. on Icelandic silver and photography.<br />

THREE Course Menu<br />

Sushi – Lamb or fish – Chocolate Kr. 6.990-<br />

www.rub23.is<br />

Opening hours:<br />

Summer (1. May-15. September): Daily 10-17<br />

Winter (16. September-30. April): Tuesday-Sunday 11-17<br />

Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík.<br />

tel: 530 2200 Thjodminjasafn@thjodminjasafn.is<br />

RUB23 | Aðalstræti 2 | 101 Reykjavík | Phone: +354 553 5323 | reykjavik@rub23.is<br />

RUB23 | Kaupvangsstræti 6 | 600 Akureyri | Phone: +354 462 2223 | rub23@rub23.is

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