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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2013<br />
Precession Of Hipsters<br />
Atli Bollason is a professional bohemian.<br />
10<br />
MAY<br />
NEWS IN BRIEF<br />
– Continued –<br />
cover most of the costs of care. The<br />
agreement is being implemented<br />
in stages over the course of the<br />
year, starting with the most atrisk-for-cavities<br />
age group—15<br />
to 17—what with all the nammi and<br />
Coke they consume.<br />
The ever-growing number<br />
of tourists has brought<br />
economic prosperity and a<br />
whole lot of fun or dullness to<br />
town, depending on who you<br />
ask. But what is the new face of<br />
Reykjavík doing to the hipster in<br />
the mirror<br />
The number of tourists<br />
in Iceland has grown by<br />
110% since 2003. And the<br />
summer of 2013 is sure<br />
to break all records; so<br />
far, the year has seen a<br />
45.5% increase compared<br />
to 2012—if the trend<br />
continues we’ll break<br />
the 900,000 tourist-wall<br />
only seven years after<br />
we broke the 400,000 one.<br />
This is apparent to anyone<br />
who spends time downtown:<br />
whole families clad in Gore-<br />
Tex from head to toe, euro-hippie<br />
couples with backpacks, psychedelic<br />
head scarves and frowzy<br />
beards, and packs of young stock brokers<br />
with thousands of dollars to burn on<br />
drugs and alcohol grace the streets of 101<br />
Reykjavík like never before. Moreover, they do<br />
so all year round, even in November and February.<br />
Why do these people come here For nature,<br />
primarily, but secondarily for something<br />
we could term the Reykjavík hip scene (I’m using<br />
‘hip’ and ‘hipster’ here in a non-derogatory<br />
fashion, loosely denoting a young and stylish<br />
crowd that likes art, loves parties and doesn’t<br />
seem to worry too much about things like politics<br />
and money). They have heard about the<br />
long and rowdy Reykjavík bar-nights, they have<br />
read something positive about our art and music<br />
somewhere and now they want to experience<br />
it first-hand.<br />
WE ARE SELF-<br />
CONSCIOUS<br />
At this point, the hipsters of Reykjavík know<br />
very well how they have been presented to the<br />
outside world. Journalists from fancy magazines<br />
have come here, perceived us as a bit<br />
wacky, quite uninhibited, extremely creative,<br />
and waxed poetic about it all to readers across<br />
the world. There exists, now, a somewhat approved<br />
image of the Icelandic hipster. The result<br />
We are self-conscious.<br />
See, there is some sort of gold rush happening<br />
in town; new hostels and hotels and<br />
tour offices and tourist-what-have-yous seem<br />
to open every week. And perhaps this mentality<br />
has seeped into our behavioural systems.<br />
More and more, it seems like we are playing a<br />
role. We act and dress as if Laugavegur were<br />
Bedford Avenue. We throw countless afterparties<br />
for anyone and everyone. We feel obliged<br />
to show tourists a splendid time in the proper,<br />
prescribed fashion. In other words, we put on<br />
a show, the very show that tourists have paid<br />
good money to come and see. The scene feels<br />
eerily like a stage these days.<br />
Illustration: Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir<br />
WE ARE THE<br />
SIMULACRA<br />
I was going to try not to evoke<br />
this term, but it seems like ol’<br />
Baudrillard pretty much nailed<br />
what’s going on with his concept<br />
of the simulacra: We are copies of<br />
an original that doesn’t exist anymore—it<br />
probably never existed<br />
outside the minds of partying media<br />
representatives high on Sigur<br />
Rós’ golden whale tears—proliferating<br />
points on the Borgesian<br />
map.<br />
So far, we’re doing a very<br />
good job and everybody just<br />
seems to be enjoying themselves.<br />
The trade-off is fair<br />
enough: Just play the role and the<br />
tourists will smile. You don’t really<br />
make a profit (a beer or two, a joint<br />
perhaps) but making someone smile<br />
is always worth it; hell—you might<br />
make a friend for life. One cannot help but<br />
wonder though if with time this new identity<br />
will take on a life of its own, one separate<br />
from our ‘true selves,’ but still stick—like a mask<br />
super-glued to your face.<br />
WE ARE ON<br />
THE SCENE<br />
Of course, upon closer inspection you realise<br />
this is only postmodern business as usual.<br />
‘Scene’ literally means ‘stage’ goddammit, so<br />
being ‘on the scene’ means being on stage. So<br />
maybe what I’m describing is only the stale core<br />
of the hipster debate itself: Those who ‘play the<br />
role’ are non-hip ‘hipsters’ and those who don’t<br />
give a shit and are ‘authentic’ are plain cool.<br />
But this distinction is false and impossible to<br />
gauge. Moreover, such a view prioritises the<br />
‘real,’ the ‘natural,’ the ‘authentic,’ the ‘organic,’<br />
the ‘original’—it imposes a hierarchy I’ve never<br />
understood because fake can be just as good.<br />
Sometimes it’s better.<br />
All of which is to say that while this may be<br />
happening, I’m not afraid. I don’t think playing<br />
this game is a symptom of us consciously or<br />
unconsciously heeding the market’s desires. I<br />
don’t even think it signifies a watering-down of<br />
the true coolness that gave us our rep to begin<br />
with. Rather, I think we didn’t quite recognise<br />
ourselves in the pink gleam of the media-mirror—who<br />
were all those awesome, crazy, artistic<br />
and friendly people anyway—and just<br />
wanted to look a bit more like them.<br />
Breast health was also a hot topic<br />
after CEO and co-founder of de-<br />
CODE genetics Inc. Kári Stefánssson<br />
announced that his company<br />
has coded information about 2,400<br />
Icelanders with the breast cancer<br />
gene, BRCA2, of which he said<br />
about half are women with an 80%<br />
likelihood of developing breast<br />
cancer. He would like to inform<br />
carriers in order for them to make<br />
an informed health decision, while<br />
public health authorities are resistant<br />
to allow this due to privacy<br />
concerns.<br />
As the world<br />
celebrated<br />
May 17 as the<br />
anniversar y<br />
of the declassification<br />
of<br />
homosexuality as a psychiatric<br />
disorder, the International Gay<br />
& Lesbian Association published<br />
the Rainbow Europe Package<br />
report which ranked Iceland<br />
in tenth place for gay and trans<br />
rights. The scores were marked<br />
out of 100% of which Iceland received<br />
56%, prompting the president<br />
of Samtökin ’78 to state that<br />
more work is needed here for recognising<br />
LGBTI issues and rights.<br />
Sweden scored 66% on the same<br />
report and proudly displayed and<br />
supported gay rights at the annual<br />
Eurovision song contest, with not<br />
one but two same-sex wedding<br />
scenarios! Iceland’s contestant<br />
Eyþór Ingi made it into the finals<br />
with the mother-language<br />
power-ballad “Ég<br />
á líf” but it proved<br />
not to stand a<br />
chance next to<br />
Denmark’s panflute<br />
infused pop<br />
tune “Only Teardrops.”<br />
Finally there were the American<br />
tourists who felt it would be a wise<br />
idea to have a picnic on the edge<br />
of an ice sheet. As luck would<br />
have it, the chunk of ice they were<br />
eating on then broke off and floated<br />
away. A rescue team was deployed<br />
and found them calmly sitting there<br />
as the ice floe drifted 10 metres<br />
from the shore, seemingly oblivious<br />
to the extreme danger they<br />
were in. They<br />
were safely<br />
rescued, but<br />
their picnic<br />
was ruined.<br />
The National Museum of Iceland<br />
celebrates its 150th anniversary 2013.<br />
Along with the permanent exhibition that features<br />
Iceland’s history from settlement to present day the<br />
museum will offer a variety of exhibitions during the<br />
year, e.g. on Icelandic silver and photography.<br />
THREE Course Menu<br />
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www.rub23.is<br />
Opening hours:<br />
Summer (1. May-15. September): Daily 10-17<br />
Winter (16. September-30. April): Tuesday-Sunday 11-17<br />
Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík.<br />
tel: 530 2200 Thjodminjasafn@thjodminjasafn.is<br />
RUB23 | Aðalstræti 2 | 101 Reykjavík | Phone: +354 553 5323 | reykjavik@rub23.is<br />
RUB23 | Kaupvangsstræti 6 | 600 Akureyri | Phone: +354 462 2223 | rub23@rub23.is