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Abandoned roads - Jos Lammers

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laundry in the mornings, at the pool in the afternoons<br />

and in the evening watching the late night movies with<br />

commercial breaks (‘you asked for it, you got it, Toyota’).<br />

And on Monday back to the office. Worrying about sex,<br />

because only too soon it became clear that Stefanie would<br />

have much preferred to stay brother and sister.<br />

The next morning we follow Highway 89 from the<br />

Navajo Reservation, where we have spent the night in a<br />

school annex hotel full of silent Indians, heading west<br />

for the Grand Canyon. A hand written sign ‘Nice Indians<br />

Behind You’ along the road marks the boundary between<br />

Indian reservation and national park. Accompanied by a<br />

sharp transition to green forests and spectacular rising<br />

mountains. The same silver jewelry and blankets that a<br />

few miles back were for sale on shaky booths along the<br />

road, you can buy here in a neatly decorated trading post.<br />

They don’t carry the peace pipe that I had set my heart<br />

on by now for the home grown little friends in my own<br />

garden, says a lady in a tightly ironed rangers uniform<br />

behind the counter. Must also be ‘behind you’, I realize<br />

too late.<br />

The canyon itself is really beautiful, even if to see it we<br />

have to deal with vast parking lots full of tour busses. It<br />

is a red rock sculpture ten miles wide and almost three<br />

hundred miles long. All the way down the Colorado River<br />

flows, a dingy little stream responsible for this enormous<br />

74

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