June 2008 issue - View Magazines

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<strong>View</strong> vcookery Although oranges are available all year, summer is the time when their juicy, fruity zing really comes into its own. When the weather warms up, I find myself reaching for oranges to make thirst-quenching orange barley water, orange-flavoured mayonnaise for dipping asparagus spears, sumptuous orange gateau or simply to squeeze the juice over strawberries or melon to bring out their flavour. It’s a wonderfully versatile fruit. Considering how often orange juice, rind (also referred to as peel or zest), slices and segments are called for in recipes, it’s surprising how frequently I’m asked how to prepare these ingredients. Beginning on the outside, the aromatic oil in the zest can be extracted by rubbing a sugar cube over it to soak up the oil. The sugar can then be crushed or dissolved for use as a flavouring. The flavour of the zest from which the oil has been extracted will be diminished. Next is the zest. Rub the orange up and down on the fine surface of a flat grater two or three times to remove the zest without picking up any of the bitter pith beneath. Alternatively, remove shreds of zest with a zesting tool, which will give you larger, sturdier shreds, almost like julienne. If you use a canelle knife, take care not to gouge too deeply, again to avoid including pith. It is a good idea to blanch sturdier shreds before using, as described below. A potato peeler will give you long, wide strips: again, avoid cutting too deeply. 16 Oranges are not the only fruit ... … but they’re certainly a favourite for fragrant summer recipes, says Hilaire Walden To turn the shreds into julienne, stack several together and, with a large, sharp knife, cut them into fine strips. If the julienne are not to be cooked in a recipe, soften them and mellow their flavour by blanching in boiling water for a couple of minutes before draining. To strip an orange down to the flesh, using a serrated knife, cut a slice from the top and bottom of the orange, through the orange layer and the white pith. Then, working over a bowl, cut from top to bottom, following the curve of the fruit, cutting away the zest, pith and segment skin. If you want to slice an orange, you need to do this first. The final stage in dismembering an orange is to divest it of its segments. If you have the choice, use seedless fruit and, if time allows, put the orange into the freezer or the coldest part of the fridge until well chilled but not frozen. Strip the orange as described above. Working over a bowl, slide the knife down one side of each segment and then the other, cutting the segment away from the skin. As you repeat with the remaining segments, you will be able to turn back the skin, not unlike the pages of a book. To get the maximum amount of juice from an orange, either roll it firmly on the work surface, steep it in boiling water for a couple of minutes, leave it on the side of a hot range cooker, or give it a few seconds in a microwave.
Peel that is not wanted for cooking can be put to good use by making candied peel that is infinitely superior to the shop-bought product sold in small tubs. Lemon and grapefruit peel can be used in the same way. Simmer 125g of thick-skinned peel in water until tender, for one and a half to two hours. Drain and simmer for a further 20 minutes. Drain again then cut into pieces. Stir 225g of sugar into 75fl oz of water in a saucepan over a low heat until dissolved, then bring to the boil. Add the peel and simmer until most of the syrup has disappeared, approximately 40 to 50 minutes. Spread the peel on a tray lined with greaseproof or silicone paper and leave to dry in a warm place, such as an airing cupboard, for one to three days, turning occasionally. Put into a paper bag and shake with sugar. Store in an airtight container. Honeyed peel is an easier variation. Cut 115 to 175g of citrus peel into the width and length of your choice (I usually do a variety). Boil them for four minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Dry well with paper towels then spread on a clean cloth on a wire rack and leave in a warmish, dry place to dry completely. Measure out 450g of clear honey. Put a layer of peel pieces in a dry, sterilized jar and cover with honey. Continue this layering until all the peel has been used. Insert a sterilized fine skewer or knitting needle to release any air bubbles. Cover the jar tightly and leave in a cold, dark place for at least three months, checking that the peel is still covered by honey: add more if necessary. Honeyed peel keeps for up to one year. V Picnic Barbecue FENNEL, ALMOND AND ORANGE SALAD If fennel is not to your taste, is not available, or for a change, use chicory instead. • 1 large fennel bulb, or 2 smaller • 1 tsp chopped feathery leaves of the fennel, or flat leaf parsley • 2 large navel oranges, peeled and sliced • 1 avocado, thinly sliced (optional) • 2 good handfuls mixed salad leaves to include watercress, rocket, frisée • 12 – 16 salted roasted almonds, coarsely chopped Dressing • 4 tbsp orange juice • 1 tsp finely grated orange rind • 6 tbsp olive oil • 3 /4 tsp Dijon mustard • 1 tbsp white wine vinegar • 1 tsp balsamic vinegar Shake the dressing ingredients together in a screw-top jar. Quarter the fennel and cut into very thin slices, preferably using a mandolin. Toss with 2 tablespoons of the dressing, and the chopped feathery fennel leaves or parsley. Toss the orange slices, and avocado if using, with another 2 tablespoons of the dressing. Put the salad leaves in a serving bowl, and toss with the remaining dressing. Scatter over the fennel and then the orange, and avocado if using. Finally, scatter over the almonds. Serves 4 Engulf yourself in a medley of different aromas ... The shop itself is an Aladdin's cave bursting with inspiration, waiting to be explored. The staff are friendly, helpful and Ceramics Hilaire’s ingredients are kindly supplied by Waitrose Food & Home, Salisbury Cheese with their vast knowledge and enthusiasm, they will encourage you to sample the exciting gourmet products on offer. Picnic cookery v Hampshire Life Food and Drink Awards Best Specialist Food Shop 2007 CADOGAN & JAMES Cadogan & James, 31A The Square, Winchester SO23 9EX Tel: 01962 840805 www.cadoganandcompany.co.uk Chocolate Undoubtedly the best deli in the country – an absolute must for all food lovers! 17 <strong>View</strong>
Page 1 and 2: Hampshire THE COUNTY’S FREE INDEP
Page 3 and 4: View editor’s In today’s celebr
Page 5 and 6: vailable from Saturday, June 28 the
Page 7 and 8: oice with the soft-rock band Amey-G
Page 9 and 10: Castlegate WINDOWS
Page 11 and 12: the sun Jungle print skirt £19.99,
Page 13 and 14: Beautifully designed fashion handba
Page 15: Open 9.30-5.00pm Monday to Saturday
Page 19 and 20: RESTAURANT 54 THE GEM OF AMPFIELD O
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