CULTURE THE FUTURE OF FASHION How 3D printing is revolutionizing the fashion industry WRITTEN BY MORGAN MCCARTY
F ashion has always been seen as a world of fantasy and fiction. <strong>The</strong> onslaught of new technology and materials has brought fantasy into the realm of science fiction and taken on new dimensions, [literally]. 3D printing technology has been incorporated into nearly every industry thus far; from medicine to movies scientists, engineers, artists, and designers. Although it seems to have just recently surfaced via media, this new form of printing has been developing for over the last thirty years. We’ve discovered the most functional and ingenious medium since pen and paper; and the potential applications are sure to make an impact in the most unimaginable ways. Naturally, the medical industry envisioned the potential applications of this technology by developing a way to “print” functioning organs and tissues, creating the first prosthetic kidney for animals. After further industry breakthroughs including, prosthetic limbs and vessels, robotic aircrafts, and the world’s first 3D printed car, this technology began to find itself more accessible to various consumer markets. Increasingly adaptable processes allow jewelry designers to use this medium precious metals, such as 14K gold and sterling silver. An ability to create abstract and surreal forms caught the attention of footwear designers, taking them to new ‘heights,’ as they created new conceptual and Avantgarde styles. Anything they draw, the printer could create. Commercial footwear companies such as, New Balance and Nike, debuted sneakers with a revolutionary 3D printed plate that enhanced football athlete’s performance. Fashion designers are expanding the scope of garment manufacturing far beyond the needle and thread. <strong>The</strong> dawning of technology had thus, entered the world of runway, Haute Couture and the red carpet. Couture integrated the latest 3D printing techniques to produce advanced garments, with innovative material manipulations; creating ‘techouture,’ where traditional techniques are replaced with codes. Dutch fashion designer, Iris Van Harpen, is one of the first adopters of 3D printing and has become a pioneer of materializing technology in innovative ways from hard-shell garments and more flexible 3D prints, collection after collection. Victoria’s Secret also acquired the growing trend for the recent Fashion show, when they collaborated in a 3D printing coproject with Swarovski’s crystals to create the sexy, snowflake ‘outfit’ worn by Supermodel and angel, Lindsay Ellington. Celebrities have also collaborated with engineers to create one-of-a kind red carpet garments. Dita Von Teese wore a Swarovski crystal encrusted, ‘mesh’ dress to a two-day, 3D printing conference. Based on the Fibonacci sequence, this fully articulated gown, was designed by Michael Schmidt, and modeled by architect, Francis Bitonti to be 3D printed in nylon by Shapeways. <strong>The</strong> gown was assembled from seventeen pieces, dyed black, lacquered, and adorned with over 13,000 Swarovski crystals to create a sensual flowing form. A significant influencer in fashion advancements, Lady Gaga has worn two 3D printed dresses this year. <strong>The</strong> first, called Anemone, was an integrated bubble dress, and more recently, a parametric sculptured dress at the launch of her album ARTPOP. Both pieces were designed by Studio XO, a Londonbased fashion technology company in collaboration with the Belgian 3D printing company, Materialise. Creatives have their minds set in the third dimension; seeing and thinking in 3D. What does this mean for fashion’s future? Bespoke clothing will be referenced in a digital sense, that a tailor and sewing machine will no longer be a part of the equation. 3D printing gives the ability to customize the piece according to exact measurements. Instead we will download codes for various garments and items to be able to print it in any way imaginable. Programmers are becoming fashion designers while fashion designers are becoming more in tune with this technology to take their fashion to new dimensions. <strong>The</strong> life of designers will change when consumers can buy designs online to make a 3D printed dress out of the plastic or nylon mix with their in-home printers. Here is where an area of controversy arises. <strong>The</strong>re is potential, that this technology can do to fashion, just as Napster did to the music industry. As 3D printing evolves, it will introduce new conflicts into copyright law. 3D printing processes contains opensource codes and designs instead of trademarked and protected industry techniques to create garments. With a computer, the right software, and a 3D printer, it’s now possible to produce your very own jewelry, accessories, or bikini within the home. Already, platforms such as Shapeways, allow users to upload and share digital designs with others. Brand owners may soon face challenges with the widespread cloning of their products, as well as the spread of their own design blueprints. <strong>The</strong> design and manufacturing process of 3D printing has serious implications for intellectual property and brand copyright. However, due to the complex and expensive nature of the printing process, it will be long before we see consumers recreating full couture garments on a mass scale. Nevertheless, there is significant potential in 3D printing with an enormous scope to revolutionize the fashion industry, particularly when it comes to materials. We will really see an impact when manufacturers begin to offer more flexible molds and garment-friendly materials. Pringle, of Scotland, collaborated with scientist Richard Beckett, and utilized a special process to produce flexible 3D printed fabrics that move like traditional fabric once combined. This is where 3D printing will make the biggest impact. <strong>The</strong> textile industry will be hit with a curve ball as more people begin to adopt 3D printed synthetic materials instead of traditional fabrics. “I do think cottons and silks will be gone, but it will take a long time,” claims designer Iris Van Herpen. (NYMAG.com) Whether the implications of 3D printing technology on the fashion industry are positive or negative, change is inevitable. An infinite amount of possibilities for designers, manufacturers, and consumers to utilize this technology. <strong>The</strong> potential is great, however there is still much to be done before 3D printing can be fully realized within the mainstream. Until then, we will leave it to imagination. to envision the future of fashion. 184
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ART GALLERY GIRL Clothing takes a f
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Ed Feingersh Marilyn with Chanel No
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ART MARILYN: An American Icon WRITT
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Marilyn Monroe Cecil Beaton Photogr
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PEOPLE IF YOU WANT SOMETHING DONE R
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REGRESSION ri-gresh-uhn the act of
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Our new found, or should I say, res
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“MITRA” BODY CHAIN MELANIE MCPH
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“MITRA” BODY CHAIN MELANIE MCPH
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HOOP EARRINGS, BODY CHAIN, BANDEAU,
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C ontinuing her journey to becoming
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A candid response from the designer
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