FLAUNT - The Generation Issue

F
ashion has always been seen as
a world of fantasy and fiction.
The onslaught of new technology and
materials has brought fantasy into the
realm of science fiction and taken on
new dimensions, [literally]. 3D printing
technology has been incorporated
into nearly every industry thus far;
from medicine to movies scientists,
engineers, artists, and designers.
Although it seems to have just recently
surfaced via media, this new form of
printing has been developing for over
the last thirty years.
We’ve discovered the most functional
and ingenious medium since pen and
paper; and the potential applications
are sure to make an impact in the
most unimaginable ways. Naturally,
the medical industry envisioned
the potential applications of this
technology by developing a way to
“print” functioning organs and tissues,
creating the first prosthetic kidney
for animals. After further industry
breakthroughs including, prosthetic
limbs and vessels, robotic aircrafts,
and the world’s first 3D printed car,
this technology began to find itself
more accessible to various consumer
markets.
Increasingly adaptable processes allow
jewelry designers to use this medium
precious metals, such as 14K gold
and sterling silver. An ability to create
abstract and surreal forms caught
the attention of footwear designers,
taking them to new ‘heights,’ as they
created new conceptual and Avantgarde
styles. Anything they draw,
the printer could create. Commercial
footwear companies such as, New
Balance and Nike, debuted sneakers
with a revolutionary 3D printed plate
that enhanced football athlete’s
performance.
Fashion designers are expanding the
scope of garment manufacturing far
beyond the needle and thread. The
dawning of technology had thus,
entered the world of runway, Haute
Couture and the red carpet. Couture
integrated the latest 3D printing
techniques to produce advanced
garments, with innovative material
manipulations; creating ‘techouture,’
where traditional techniques are
replaced with codes.
Dutch fashion designer, Iris Van
Harpen, is one of the first adopters
of 3D printing and has become a
pioneer of materializing technology
in innovative ways from hard-shell
garments and more flexible 3D prints,
collection after collection. Victoria’s
Secret also acquired the growing trend
for the recent Fashion show, when
they collaborated in a 3D printing coproject
with Swarovski’s crystals to
create the sexy, snowflake ‘outfit’ worn
by Supermodel and angel, Lindsay
Ellington.
Celebrities have also collaborated
with engineers to create one-of-a kind
red carpet garments. Dita Von Teese
wore a Swarovski crystal encrusted,
‘mesh’ dress to a two-day, 3D printing
conference. Based on the Fibonacci
sequence, this fully articulated gown,
was designed by Michael Schmidt,
and modeled by architect, Francis
Bitonti to be 3D printed in nylon by
Shapeways. The gown was assembled
from seventeen pieces, dyed black,
lacquered, and adorned with over
13,000 Swarovski crystals to create
a sensual flowing form. A significant
influencer in fashion advancements,
Lady Gaga has worn two 3D printed
dresses this year. The first, called
Anemone, was an integrated bubble
dress, and more recently, a parametric
sculptured dress at the launch of her
album ARTPOP. Both pieces were
designed by Studio XO, a Londonbased
fashion technology company
in collaboration with the Belgian
3D printing company, Materialise.
Creatives have their minds set in the
third dimension; seeing and thinking in
3D.
What does this mean for fashion’s
future? Bespoke clothing will be
referenced in a digital sense, that a
tailor and sewing machine will no longer
be a part of the equation. 3D printing
gives the ability to customize the piece
according to exact measurements.
Instead we will download codes for
various garments and items to be
able to print it in any way imaginable.
Programmers are becoming fashion
designers while fashion designers
are becoming more in tune with this
technology to take their fashion to
new dimensions. The life of designers
will change when consumers can buy
designs online to make a 3D printed
dress out of the plastic or nylon mix
with their in-home printers.
Here is where an area of controversy
arises. There is potential, that this
technology can do to fashion, just as
Napster did to the music industry. As
3D printing evolves, it will introduce
new conflicts into copyright law. 3D
printing processes contains opensource
codes and designs instead of
trademarked and protected industry
techniques to create garments. With a
computer, the right software, and a 3D
printer, it’s now possible to produce
your very own jewelry, accessories, or
bikini within the home.
Already, platforms such as Shapeways,
allow users to upload and share digital
designs with others. Brand owners
may soon face challenges with the
widespread cloning of their products,
as well as the spread of their own
design blueprints. The design and
manufacturing process of 3D printing
has serious implications for intellectual
property and brand copyright.
However, due to the complex and
expensive nature of the printing
process, it will be long before we see
consumers recreating full couture
garments on a mass scale.
Nevertheless, there is significant
potential in 3D printing with an
enormous scope to revolutionize the
fashion industry, particularly when
it comes to materials. We will really
see an impact when manufacturers
begin to offer more flexible molds and
garment-friendly materials. Pringle, of
Scotland, collaborated with scientist
Richard Beckett, and utilized a special
process to produce flexible 3D printed
fabrics that move like traditional
fabric once combined. This is where
3D printing will make the biggest
impact. The textile industry will be
hit with a curve ball as more people
begin to adopt 3D printed synthetic
materials instead of traditional fabrics.
“I do think cottons and silks
will be gone, but it will take a
long time,” claims designer Iris Van
Herpen. (NYMAG.com)
Whether the implications of 3D
printing technology on the fashion
industry are positive or negative,
change is inevitable. An infinite
amount of possibilities for designers,
manufacturers, and consumers to
utilize this technology. The potential is
great, however there is still much to be
done before 3D printing can be fully
realized within the mainstream. Until
then, we will leave it to imagination. to
envision the future of fashion.
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