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can finland<br />

SAVE THE<br />

WORLD?<br />

THE AbbEy<br />

that crowned<br />

a turbulent<br />

king<br />

woes of the<br />

FOOTbALL<br />

HEROES<br />

Body&Soul<br />

– We’re Hungry!


AmericanAirlines and AA.com are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Allian<strong>ce</strong>, LLC. © 2011 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.<br />

Starting May 2,<br />

American Airlines will<br />

offer a new daily nonstop<br />

fl ight from Helsinki to<br />

Chicago where you can<br />

easily connect to more than<br />

100 destinations across<br />

the Americas including<br />

Boston, Los Angeles, Miami,<br />

San Francisco and Seattle.<br />

For more information,<br />

<strong>vi</strong>sit AA.com/fi nland.<br />

C<br />

M<br />

Y<br />

CM<br />

MY<br />

CY<br />

CMY<br />

K


contents<br />

4 ..<br />

13<br />

14<br />

24<br />

28<br />

32<br />

40 ...<br />

52<br />

<strong>vi</strong>


and those who do not travel read only a page.”<br />

– St. AuguStine<br />

There may be as many as 30,000<br />

aeroplanes in flight over Europe at one time.<br />

There are about 3.5 million articles in the<br />

English-language version of Wikipedia, the<br />

Internet-based encyclopaedia. Globally,<br />

the encyclopaedia boasts 365 million readers.<br />

In<br />

Figures<br />

The world’s<br />

highest<br />

restaurant<br />

has been<br />

opened in<br />

Burj Khalifa,<br />

in the tallest<br />

building on<br />

earth, in<br />

Dubai. It is on<br />

the 122nd floor<br />

at an elevation<br />

of 442<br />

metres.<br />

Business on the Wing<br />

More than 25<br />

per <strong>ce</strong>nt of those<br />

li<strong>vi</strong>ng above the<br />

60th degree<br />

of latitude<br />

reside in Finland.<br />

A passenger<br />

train tested as<br />

it travelled<br />

between Beijing<br />

and Shanghai<br />

achieved a<br />

speed of<br />

486<br />

indigo, a budget airline company in india, has lashed out on a real highflying<br />

spree. the company made the biggest purchase of ci<strong>vi</strong>l aircraft of<br />

all time when it bought 180 a320s from european aeroplane manufacturer<br />

airbus.<br />

istockphoto<br />

MY MOMENT in Finland<br />

“I saw so many Moomin<br />

items in souvenir shops.<br />

I enjoy shopping and the<br />

Moomins are very cute. In<br />

Japan, not so many people<br />

know about Moomins, but<br />

I’m very fond of them.”<br />

Eri Kawakami<br />

student, Japan<br />

“I was surprised at the variety<br />

of food I could find in Finland.<br />

Before my <strong>vi</strong>sit I was wondering<br />

what the food would<br />

be like, but we could find<br />

food from all the continents,<br />

including Indian and Thai.”<br />

Dhulipala Prabhu<br />

engineer, india<br />

“I <strong>vi</strong>sited Jyväskylä in Central<br />

Finland and enjoyed just<br />

looking at the snowy s<strong>ce</strong>nery.<br />

You can’t find any snow in my<br />

hometown. It was really exciting<br />

just to see the snowflakes<br />

fall. It was the first time I have<br />

ever seen snow in my life.”<br />

Kazuko Matsuji<br />

teacher, Japan<br />

Fair Play<br />

TrANSPArENCy INTErNATIoNAL, an<br />

international organisation opposed to bribery, lists<br />

nations according to their level of corruption.<br />

The world’s least<br />

corrupted countries are:<br />

1. Denmark<br />

2. New Zealand<br />

3. Singapore<br />

4. Finland<br />

5. Sweden<br />

The most badly corrupted<br />

nations are:<br />

174. Uzbekistan<br />

175. Irak<br />

176. Afganistan<br />

177. Myanmar (Burma)<br />

178. Somalia<br />

sour<strong>ce</strong>:<br />

transParency<br />

international<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

5


the more luck I seem to have.”<br />

– PoliticiAn thomAS JefferSon<br />

P Stands for Distan<strong>ce</strong><br />

oVEr THE CENTUrIES, the Sámi natives of Lapland have<br />

learnt to live under Arctic conditions. In the old days – before<br />

snowmobiles became common – reindeer were important draught<br />

animals during the winter. As they plodded through the roadless<br />

wilderness on reindeer-driven pulka sleds the Sámi noted the<br />

distan<strong>ce</strong> they travelled using a natural recorder and a measure still<br />

generally referred to in Lapland as the poronkusema. It means the<br />

distan<strong>ce</strong> in reindeer urine – which can be up to 7.5 kilometres. The<br />

number of kilometres completed is noted by each stop, because a<br />

reindeer is unable to urinate while running, so it always stops to<br />

relieve itself. A reindeer can be driven up to seven poronkusema<br />

lengths in a day– in others words, more than 50 kilometres (about<br />

31 miles).<br />

Food’s also a problem<br />

FooD is a problem for one-third of the globe’s six billion<br />

people. The World Health Organisation (WHO) says more<br />

than a billion are already overweight. The United States has<br />

largest number, who make up one-third of the population. In<br />

Europe, the questionable top ranking is held by Great Britain,<br />

where one in four adults is overweight. At the same time, one<br />

billion of the world’s people go hungry every day, and the<br />

proportion of those undernourished is increasing.<br />

Photos: istockphoto<br />

TO THE POINT<br />

Chicago,<br />

Familiar but unknown<br />

BArAK oBAMA, Michael Jordan, Al Capone, the Chicago Bulls,<br />

the Chicago Blackhawks… Chicago is a city of world-famous<br />

sports associations and <strong>ce</strong>lebrities.<br />

It has also become famous through many films and tele<strong>vi</strong>sion<br />

series: The Untouchables, The Fugitive, The Negotiator, ER…<br />

This city of 2.9 million inhabitants lies at the southern end of<br />

Lake Michigan. You noti<strong>ce</strong> its location particularly in the winter,<br />

when the piercing wind blowing off the Great Lakes drives people<br />

indoors, perhaps into one of the monumental skyscrapers in the<br />

city <strong>ce</strong>ntre. Of these the most famous is still known as the Sears<br />

Tower, though now it is officially called Willis Tower.<br />

Sears Tower was built in 1993 and at the time was the highest<br />

building in the world, even higher than New York’s Twin Towers.<br />

It kept the title until 1998, when they built one even higher in<br />

Malaysia. From the 103rd floor of the 442 metre- (1,450 feet-) tall<br />

Willis Tower you can observe the seemingly endless labyrinth of<br />

buildings and roads that spans a metropolitan area of 8.3 million<br />

residents and plan an itinerary that takes in everything worth<br />

seeing in the city.<br />

www.chicagotraveler.com<br />

American Airlines from<br />

Helsinki Airport to Chicago<br />

from May 2011 american airlines<br />

will fly daily from helsinki airport<br />

to chicago during the entire summer.<br />

the boeing 767 that flies the<br />

route will take off at 14:00 and arrive<br />

in the usa at 15:20 local time.<br />

the flight leaves chicago at 15:40,<br />

getting to helsinki at 08:30. the<br />

time differen<strong>ce</strong> between helsinki<br />

and chicago is eight hours.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

7


which served afterwards to solve other problems.”<br />

– PhiloSoPher rené DeScArteS<br />

on the fortress was equipped to repel the West. A<br />

Finnish garrison was installed there on Finland’s<br />

independen<strong>ce</strong> in 1917. Even during World War II<br />

it played an important part in the air defen<strong>ce</strong> of<br />

Helsinki against Russian bombers.<br />

The entire area inside the more than six kilo-<br />

metres of fortress wall, containing almost 200<br />

buildings, is now a popular tourist destination.<br />

You can reach it easily by ferry from the <strong>ce</strong>ntre<br />

of Helsinki.<br />

www.suomenlinna.fi/en<br />

the unesco (united nations educational,<br />

scientific and cultural organisation)<br />

world heritage list is a system<br />

aimed at protecting significant and endangered<br />

cultural and natural heritage.<br />

currently, the world heritage list in-<br />

cludes 890 cultural and natural sites<br />

in 141 countries. finland lists seven<br />

sites: the fortress of suomenlinna, old<br />

rauma, Petäjävesi old church, Verla<br />

groundwood and board Mill, the bronze<br />

age burial site of sammallahdenmäki,<br />

struve geodetic arc and kvarken archipelago.<br />

http://whc.unesco.org/en/about/<br />

Culture in Turku<br />

CIrCUS PErForMANCES, underwater<br />

con<strong>ce</strong>rts, aerial acrobatics, Finnish sauna culture,<br />

exhibitions, modern opera, theatre… Finland’s<br />

City of Turku – European Capital of Culture in<br />

2011 – presents the whole spectrum of cultural<br />

expression this year.<br />

http://www.turku2011.fi/en<br />

ssshh! We Can<br />

Keep planes Quiet<br />

aircraft make two kinds of unavoidable noise<br />

– engine noise and aerodynamic noise.<br />

how loud engine noise is depends<br />

on the size of the engine, its type and<br />

its power output.<br />

aerodynamic noise, on the other<br />

hand, depends on the aircraft type,<br />

its disposition at any stage of the<br />

flight, and the speed of the aircraft.<br />

technological developments in<br />

aircraft and engines have redu<strong>ce</strong>d<br />

noise levels dramatically.<br />

the oldest engines in use pro-<br />

du<strong>ce</strong> narrow jets of air at high<br />

speeds, while the newest engines<br />

give a greater volume of air at lower<br />

speeds, which makes them quieter.<br />

Propeller-driven aircraft on short<br />

routes are generally quieter than jet<br />

aircraft.<br />

cda (continuous des<strong>ce</strong>nt approach)<br />

redu<strong>ce</strong>s noise.<br />

air traffic control can allow the pilot<br />

to redu<strong>ce</strong> speed steadily without<br />

the need for a horizontal flight stage.<br />

noise decreases when you are<br />

more than 10 kilometres from the<br />

runway.<br />

cda at helsinki airport has been<br />

in practi<strong>ce</strong> for almost 10 years.<br />

envIronMenTal FACT<br />

noise studies at finnish airports<br />

have looked at the spread of noise to<br />

air routes, in accordan<strong>ce</strong> with an eu directive.<br />

l describes noise levels over a<br />

den<br />

24-hour period, where the weighting<br />

for noise in the evening (19:00–22:00)<br />

is 5 decibels and at night (22:00–07:00)<br />

10 decibels. in practi<strong>ce</strong> one aircraft flying<br />

at night is equivalent in terms of<br />

noise to 10 aircraft flying during the day.<br />

noise can be controlled with optimal<br />

planning of air routes, runway practi<strong>ce</strong>s<br />

and des<strong>ce</strong>nt and take-off pro<strong>ce</strong>dures.<br />

helsinki airport uses the preferential<br />

runway assignment system.<br />

Measures are in pla<strong>ce</strong> to try and ensure<br />

that as few people as possible live<br />

in an area affected by noise.<br />

in 1990 some 100,000 people lived<br />

within helsinki airport’s noise impact<br />

area. in 2009 the figure was around<br />

10,000.<br />

helsinki airport is a pioneer in the<br />

‘green’ des<strong>ce</strong>nt approach – now 60 %<br />

of des<strong>ce</strong>nts apply the continuous des<strong>ce</strong>nt<br />

approach pro<strong>ce</strong>dure, as it is officially<br />

known.<br />

.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

9


Bergen 1:55<br />

Amsterdam 2:35<br />

Brussels 2:40<br />

Düsseldorf 2:25<br />

Geneva 3:00<br />

Zurich 2:55<br />

Ni<strong>ce</strong> 3:35<br />

Milan 3:15<br />

Frankfurt 2:40<br />

Pisa 2:55<br />

Billund 2:20<br />

Stuttgart 2:50<br />

Hamburg 1:55<br />

Munich 2:35<br />

Rome 3:35<br />

Oslo 1:30<br />

Veni<strong>ce</strong> 3:10<br />

Gothenburg 1:25<br />

Copenhagen 1:35<br />

Malta 4:05<br />

Ljubljana 2:35<br />

Berlin 2:00<br />

Prague 2:20<br />

Vienna 2:30<br />

Split 3:00<br />

Dubrovnik 3:30<br />

Stockholm 0:55<br />

Norrköping 1:20<br />

Visby 1:30<br />

Budapest 2:25<br />

Gdansk 1:55<br />

Krakow 1:45<br />

Warsaw 1:45<br />

HELSINKI<br />

St. Petersburg<br />

0:55<br />

Riga 0:55<br />

Vilnus 1:15<br />

Tallinn 0:35<br />

Athens 3:40<br />

Muurmansk 3:00<br />

Chania 3:50<br />

Bucharest 2:30<br />

Heraklion 3:55<br />

Moscow 1:50<br />

Minsk 1:25<br />

Samos 3:50<br />

WORLD POLiTiCS Murmansk, Russia<br />

With more than 300,000 inhabitants, Murmansk<br />

is the largest city north of the Arctic Circle, but<br />

is drawn much larger than its actual size on the<br />

world’s political map. Its global importan<strong>ce</strong> comes<br />

from its militarily significant location and its permanently<br />

i<strong>ce</strong>-free port on the shores of the Polar<br />

Sea. Honoured for its distinction during World<br />

War II, Murmansk was<br />

named a “Hero City”<br />

by the So<strong>vi</strong>et Union.<br />

The area still has<br />

important naval bases<br />

for russia’s nuclearpowered<br />

ships and<br />

submarines.<br />

Kiev 1:45<br />

Rhodes 4:00<br />

Istanbul 3:15<br />

Petrozavodsk XXX<br />

CHAnGE Gdansk, Poland<br />

Gdansk, Poland, hit the world’s headlines during the Cold<br />

War when the trade union movement born in the shipyards<br />

spurred the release of Eastern Europe from the yoke of<br />

the USSr. The history of Gdansk, however, reaches much<br />

farther back, for the Baltic city has been a significant <strong>ce</strong>ntre<br />

of commer<strong>ce</strong> for <strong>ce</strong>nturies.<br />

Poland is deeply Catholic and<br />

the best-known sightseeing attraction<br />

in Gdansk is St Mary’s<br />

Church, the largest brick church<br />

in the world. It can accommodate<br />

25,000 worshippers.<br />

Kos 3:50<br />

CULTURE Minsk, Belarus<br />

Paphos 4:15<br />

Larnaca 4:00<br />

Tokyo 9:25<br />

Nagoya 9:35<br />

Belarus – which means “White russia” – circulates<br />

its own rubles. The main building of the<br />

republic’s National Museum of Art is pictured<br />

on its one-thousand ruble note. In addition to<br />

White russian art, the museum also displays<br />

Slutsk belts, which have risen to the status of<br />

national mementoes. These belts have been<br />

important men’s wear in the culture of White<br />

russia, symbolising the wearer’s prosperity<br />

and power. Men exclusively<br />

wore these<br />

silk belts, and only<br />

men were allowed<br />

to assist in putting<br />

them on.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

11<br />

Osaka 9:45<br />

Seoul 8:35<br />

Hong Kong 9:50<br />

Beijing 7:40<br />

Shanghai 8:55<br />

Bangkok 9:45<br />

Delhi 6:40<br />

Ekatarinburg<br />

2:45<br />

Dubai 5:55


ex<strong>ce</strong>pt when milk comes out of my nose.”<br />

– AmericAn Director WooDy Allen<br />

Helsinki Airport has often been voted one of the best<br />

COLUMN by Kaarina Hazard<br />

Helsinki Airport, Sublime Nothingness<br />

airports in Europe, by international magazines and<br />

travellers alike. The ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> is good, the guide signs are<br />

ex<strong>ce</strong>llent, the facilities are great, and everything is clean<br />

and efficient.<br />

International recognition. For Finns it’s a portal<br />

from the Arctic gloom into the bright and cheery inner<br />

world of Scandina<strong>vi</strong>an design. People want to come<br />

here. They want to transit here. It’s always ni<strong>ce</strong> arri<strong>vi</strong>ng<br />

here. Folk enjoy just passing through. It’s wonderful.<br />

It is wonderful. Who cares if you’ve just driven<br />

through brown mud up to the door handle on the<br />

Helsinki ring road, if your hair is unwashed and you’ve<br />

no coins for the parking meter? Step inside and enjoy<br />

the warm, serene atmosphere,<br />

guaranteed to calm the most<br />

irritable mother picking up her<br />

sons from the arrivals hall after<br />

their jolly week in Ibiza. Penniless<br />

lovers board local buses to the<br />

airport to share a lukewarm coffee in a paper cup and<br />

dream about the plane that might take them away.<br />

People even come to Helsinki Airport to dream about<br />

staying there.<br />

Because… Helsinki Airport works. The escalator,<br />

the tap in the washroom, the conveyor belt, the security<br />

check – all demonstrate the same, reliable uniform<br />

quality. Spacious, bright, dependable – like banks<br />

used to be. Only the Arctic wind whistles outside – it’s<br />

so very pure, so very imper<strong>ce</strong>ptible, like an image in<br />

a women’s magazine become flesh. As if you were<br />

nowhere. And it’s odd but that is what the passengers<br />

love. Being nowhere.<br />

At the airport everyone has just come from wherever<br />

they have been, and it has never been as good as they<br />

imagined. The world isn’t one harmonious whole,<br />

it is a load of narrow-minded local communities all<br />

shrieking at one another. And by the time you reach<br />

the airport you’ve only just recovered from it all. All<br />

those embarrassments and hardships, endless queuing,<br />

sticky loo floors and broken mirror edges; sweaty old<br />

grannies and slobbering children who just get too<br />

Helsinki Airport<br />

is like the fantasy<br />

world of the<br />

commercials.<br />

close; bundles with unrecognisable gadgets spilling out,<br />

smells of daringly exotic snacks. You can’t escape it, no<br />

matter how tightly you clamp on your protective iPod<br />

earphones. And then it’s Helsinki Airport. The most<br />

international of international airports, they say. You feel<br />

like saying: “guaranteed nothingness.”<br />

There is nothing to ruffle you here, nothing to<br />

distract. It’s all as soft and soothing as that cloud you<br />

saw out of the window earlier on. No one is hassling<br />

you, no one asking for anything, no one pushing. No<br />

men in shabby jackets, no jui<strong>ce</strong>s on sale squeezed from<br />

weird fruits the labels say nothing about. Nobody’s<br />

trying sell you disgusting local pies and pastries. We<br />

can all wallow in our own infallibility, with no one<br />

constantly trying to bother us.<br />

Helsinki Airport – as if you were<br />

nowhere.<br />

Helsinki Airport is piped<br />

music incarnate, like a window<br />

display they vacuum clean in<br />

secret at night. It is a kitchen exhibition where water<br />

never runs and washing-up liquid forms no rings.<br />

Helsinki Airport is a project, with a schedule that holds<br />

and a budget no one argues about. It is bread and<br />

butter and a glass of warm milk – you can’t possibly<br />

hate it. Helsinki Airport doesn’t feel like anything,<br />

which is precisely why it is so wonderful.<br />

Helsinki Airport is like the fantasy world of the<br />

commercials. Dad, sober and straight, the family’s well<br />

cared for dog (paws clean of course!), jumping onto<br />

the back seat of the car while mum nimbly folds the<br />

walking gear into that designer rucksack. And the kids<br />

are still playing ball on the newly cut lawn. Helsinki<br />

Airport is controlled sunshine and refreshing summer<br />

rain. Grandma Duck’s blueberry pie cooling on the<br />

window sill, a freshly polished man’s shoe, a child’s<br />

spotlessly clean pullover, a friendly hug, a mobile phone<br />

with the battery always topped up. Helsinki Airport is<br />

a quarrel-free Christmas with the family, like a child<br />

snoozing through the night; like two lovers achie<strong>vi</strong>ng<br />

ecstasy at the same time.<br />

Kaarina Hazard is a Helsinki<br />

freelan<strong>ce</strong> writer.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

13


14 V I A HELSINKI<br />

FOOD<br />

iS A CUSTOM.


TEXT NINA PINjoLA SIDEBARS TErHI KIVIKoSKI-HANNULA PICTURES jArI HÄrKÖNEN<br />

iS HiSTORy.<br />

wilight on Christmas Eve in Finland. The snow<br />

takes a bluish tinge, it is freezing and nearly dark,<br />

though light shines out from the windows of many<br />

homes. All over Finland the same ritual is taking<br />

pla<strong>ce</strong> as families gather around tables groaning under the weight<br />

of food.<br />

There is plenty on the table. Christmas ham, roast turkey,<br />

carrot, swede and potato casserole, Christmas salad, different<br />

types of fish, maybe roe, salads and perhaps blinis (Russian<br />

pancakes) too. There may be home-brewed beer, Christmas<br />

beer or red wine. For dessert, perhaps fruit salad or plum fool,<br />

cake or chocolates. Spi<strong>ce</strong>d Christmas beverages such as mulled<br />

wine are imbibed before or after the meal.<br />

At Christmas in Finland, we indulge ourselves without in-<br />

hibition for three days. We no longer fuss about whether to<br />

scoff the starter first and then the main meal, or take a bit of<br />

everything at on<strong>ce</strong>. At other times of the year, Finns are quite<br />

sensible about eating. There’s usually a starter before the main<br />

meal, typically soup or salad, and after the main meal, some<br />

kind of dessert with coffee, such as a pie<strong>ce</strong> of cake or i<strong>ce</strong> cream.<br />

And that’s it.<br />

To Italians, our eating habits might seem odd. To them, food<br />

and its preparation are an art. Usually an antipasto is brought<br />

out first; a starter and various pie<strong>ce</strong>s or sticks of toasted bread<br />

(crostini). These are followed by the main course, il primo,<br />

then a second main course, il secondo. Finally, comes dessert,<br />

dol<strong>ce</strong>. It’s a time for leisurely delectation.<br />

Though gastronomy plays a less important role in Finland<br />

than it does in Italy, Finnish food can hardly be accused of<br />

being bad, though Italian prime minister Sil<strong>vi</strong>o Berlusconi<br />

claimed so when he <strong>vi</strong>sited Finland. Could this be about his-<br />

torically different food cultures or do some countries really<br />

have better food than others?<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

15


IMaGIne THIs: JoeY CHesTnuT WolFs doWn<br />

54 HoT doGs In Ten MInuTes.<br />

Patriotic Pizza and Chips<br />

Finns call chips “French potatoes” (also known as pommes<br />

frites, French fries) but fried spuds didn’t originate<br />

in Fran<strong>ce</strong>. Belgian journalist Jo Gérard asserts that chips<br />

were first made around 1680 in Belgium. The poor inhabitants<br />

of the Meuse Valley ate fried fish with their<br />

meals, but when the river froze in winter they repla<strong>ce</strong>d<br />

the fish with potatoes cut lengthwise into strips and<br />

fried them in oil.<br />

Like chips, hamburgers are often assumed to be<br />

American food, but unlike those French potatoes, we<br />

can trust the name. The hamburger really did originate<br />

in Hamburg, Germany.<br />

The pizza too has a long history. The tomato arrived<br />

in Europe from Peru and Chile with Columbus’s second<br />

voyage of exploration at the end of the 15th <strong>ce</strong>ntury and<br />

was originally thought to be poisonous. By the 18th <strong>ce</strong>ntury,<br />

the people of Naples in Italy were already filling<br />

their flat bread with tomatoes, and pizzas took off. It is<br />

said the pizza became such an attraction that tourists to<br />

Naples swarmed to the poor districts to taste it.<br />

Perhaps the best known of modern-day pizzas is the<br />

classic Margherita. It too has a story. It was concocted in<br />

1889 by the baker Raffaele Esposito, who created a patriotic<br />

pie in the form of the Italian flag, in green (basil),<br />

white (mozzarella) and red (tomato), to honour the <strong>vi</strong>sit<br />

of King Umberto i and his Queen, Margherita of Savoy.<br />

So the next time we chomp on a Margherita pizza, let us<br />

remember the queen.<br />

16 V I A HELSINKI<br />

istockphoto<br />

The first<br />

Jamie Olivers<br />

Our cave-dwelling forefathers probably had their own par-<br />

ticular way of preparing food, though you could hardly de-<br />

scribe it as cooking in today’s sense. Yet such ancient ci<strong>vi</strong>li-<br />

sations as Egypt and Assyria, respected cooking. The wealthy<br />

took pride in their extravagant banquets, which were a far<br />

cry from the morsels of the masses.<br />

Gastronomic literature only came into existen<strong>ce</strong> later,<br />

though, in Gree<strong>ce</strong>. The word gastronomy derives from the<br />

Greek words gaster (stomach) and nomos (law), and means<br />

familiarity with and expertise in the preparation of food,<br />

as well as the ability to enjoy it. The word gastronome came<br />

to describe an expert in cookery and a dis<strong>ce</strong>rning lover of<br />

good food.<br />

While Greek gastronomy was refined and sober, gluttony<br />

became the craze in republican Rome, whose feasts feature<br />

<strong>vi</strong><strong>vi</strong>dly in countless books and films. Gastronomy took a re-<br />

al step forward in the Renaissan<strong>ce</strong>, when Italy gave birth to<br />

western cuisine, from which French cooking also drew its<br />

influen<strong>ce</strong>. A royal wedding took things further when Ka-<br />

tariina de Medici married French king Henry II, and she<br />

brought with her to Fran<strong>ce</strong> an army of Florentine chefs. The<br />

French word la cuisine (kitchen) began to mean both<br />

food and its preparation.<br />

Food cultures evolved in dif-<br />

ferent ways in differ-


ent countries and depended greatly on local conditions. Har-<br />

vest time is short in northern Finland and winters long, so<br />

unlike the Italians, say, Finns had to de<strong>vi</strong>se proper methods<br />

of preservation. Salt was imported and expensive, so Finns<br />

settled on drying and acidifying food. Even today, Finnish<br />

food often has a sour taste.<br />

Food culture took its greatest strides towards the present<br />

day with three insights. The first con<strong>ce</strong>rned seasoning. Ini-<br />

tially, spi<strong>ce</strong>s largely obscured the flavour of ingredients, but<br />

in the 17th <strong>ce</strong>ntury chefs began to use them to emphasise fla-<br />

vours. The second big step came with the French Revolution<br />

in 1789, when food preparation and enjoyment moved from<br />

the homes of the nobility into restaurants, and “eating out”<br />

became more common. The third insight was food customs.<br />

As time passed, other food cultures came to the fore. Be-<br />

sides French and Italian cuisine, Chinese, Japanese (especially<br />

sushi) and Thai spread widely. Indian, Turkish, Mexican and<br />

Greek food, for instan<strong>ce</strong>, have also increased in popularity.<br />

It is ironic that the national cuisines that have spread<br />

abroad are often only variations on an original. Food in It-<br />

aly, Fran<strong>ce</strong> and China, will vary greatly from one pro<strong>vi</strong>n<strong>ce</strong><br />

to another, so, in Piedmont, Italy, it is pointless looking for<br />

the same fare as in Tuscany. National cuisines that have trav-<br />

elled are only a set of raw ingredients and recipes from dif-<br />

ferent regions of a country. There is no common theme in<br />

Italian or Chinese cuisine beyond what exists in our minds.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

17


18 V I A HELSINKI<br />

Peas on<br />

the knife?<br />

Many of us pause for a moment when we find three knives<br />

and three forks beside our plate. What was that etiquette<br />

again? And, where did those rules originate? The etiquette<br />

best known in the west, the rules of good manners, is actual-<br />

ly French, and dictates how you should behave at the dining<br />

table. For example, in western etiquette you show by the po-<br />

sition of your cutlery whether you have finished your course<br />

or would like some more.<br />

French dining etiquette is not universal, though, and<br />

each culture has its own rules. Eating habits and even the<br />

utensils vary from country to country. In the west we de-<br />

pend on the knife and fork, China eats with chopsticks and<br />

Thailand uses a fork and spoon. You use the fork to push<br />

the food onto the spoon and eat from that.<br />

We should be aware that many dislikes and ideas about<br />

food are acquired and culturally based. While fried cock-<br />

roaches may be a huge delicacy in Asia, westerners might<br />

well squirm at the thought. Indians wonder how westerners<br />

can eat a cow, a sacred animal. For Indians, eating the flesh<br />

of a cow is about as weird as eating a pet dog would be to<br />

westerners.


Crab With<br />

a Bite<br />

MICHelIn CHeF MarKus<br />

areMo BelIeves IF You<br />

Feel Good WHIle<br />

You CooK, Your Food<br />

WIll Turn ouT rIGHT.<br />

“When you are passionate about cook-<br />

ing,” he declares, “it’s the careful work<br />

rather than the ingredients that guaranteed<br />

good results. However, most important<br />

of all is the mood around the dining<br />

table. I have never drunk bad wine whilst<br />

in good company.<br />

“Here, from various well-known dishes,<br />

I have chosen crab soup, because<br />

there are various types of crab around<br />

the world and it is easy to prepare. It<br />

doesn’t even matter if the soup burns a<br />

little on the bottom – this just ac<strong>ce</strong>ntuates<br />

the toasted flavour of the crab shell.<br />

And if the meat is taken away before the<br />

shells are boiled, it can be used for the<br />

next meal. The flavour and some of the<br />

red colour comes from the shells. The<br />

tomato puree also gives colour. I don’t<br />

use dill as I feel it belongs in the boiling<br />

water used for the crabs, and not in the<br />

soup.<br />

“you know the meal is a suc<strong>ce</strong>ss when<br />

you’ve finished one plate and want some<br />

more.”<br />

Why do we eat?<br />

Our first answer is to stay alive. Believers in evolution contend<br />

that we eat because we are driven by an ancient sur<strong>vi</strong>val<br />

instinct, meaning we eat as much as possible, whenever possible.<br />

Others may say that some of us eat too much because<br />

our bodies have lost a healthy link to their regulatory mechanisms.<br />

This may be a consequen<strong>ce</strong> of overeating in childhood,<br />

for example. If you have been for<strong>ce</strong>d to always finish<br />

your plate whether you’re hungry or not, your body will eventually<br />

no longer recognise what is enough.<br />

Whatever the truth, we today seem to be eating for the<br />

most curious reasons – to derive pleasure from food or drink;<br />

for the sake of company; when there is nothing else to do;<br />

for comfort; because we dare not refuse food or drink; to<br />

achieve a <strong>ce</strong>rtain mood; to recall and remember an earlier<br />

eating event; even to win a prize.<br />

July 4th, 2010 and Joey Chestnut, already three time <strong>vi</strong>ctor<br />

of the hot-dog eating competition, wins again. He wolfs<br />

1 KG CRAb SHELLS<br />

100 ML TOMATO PUREE<br />

100 G CELERy<br />

100 G FEnnEL<br />

2 SPRinG OniOnS<br />

3–4 SPRiGS OF THyME<br />

1/2 bULb OF GARLiC<br />

¼ RED CHiLLi POD<br />

400 ML WHiTE WinE<br />

100 ML bRAnDy<br />

2 L FiSH STOCK OR WATER<br />

40 G bUTTER AnD 40 G WHEAT<br />

FLOUR FOR THiCKEninG<br />

500 ML DOUbLE CREAM<br />

AnD 200 G bUTTER<br />

SALT AnD PEPPER<br />

(AnD A LiqUEUR OR<br />

LOCAL SPiRiT)<br />

AVOCADO OR CROUTOnS<br />

PLACED On TOP OF<br />

THE FiniSHED SOUP<br />

MARKUS AREMO<br />

areMo’s crab souP<br />

• chef at la table bistro in helsinki from 2010.<br />

• achieved Michelin one-star ratings for the restaurants george (2006)<br />

and carma (2008), which he then left so that he could cook in a more<br />

relaxed en<strong>vi</strong>ronment.<br />

• became finnish chef of the year in 1999.<br />

Heat the crab shells, tomato puree, chopped<br />

and peeled vegetables, garlic and thyme in<br />

olive oil in a pan. Add the brandy and white<br />

wine and quickly bring to the boil. Pour the<br />

fish stock into the mixture. Cook the stock<br />

for one hour. Prepare the thickening in another<br />

pan. Strain the hot crab stock into<br />

this. When the soup is thick enough, season<br />

with butter, cream, pepper and salt, which<br />

you can add generously. You can give it an<br />

edge by adding a dash of liqueur or spirit.<br />

down 54 hot dogs in ten minutes, securing the 95th Nathan’s<br />

Hot Dog Eating Contest, an annual munch-fest on Coney<br />

Island, New York. Last year this world’s most famous hotdog<br />

eating joust was watched by more than 40,000 spectators,<br />

while more than 1.7 million <strong>vi</strong>ewed it live on tele<strong>vi</strong>sion.<br />

And there’s this: Mexican Manuel “Xa<strong>vi</strong>er” Uribe (b.<br />

1965), still the world’s hea<strong>vi</strong>est man a year ago, weighed at his<br />

hea<strong>vi</strong>est about 597 kg (1,320 lb). He could no longer get out<br />

of bed without the help of his mother and fiancée. Manuel<br />

sought expert help and tried desperately to slim down.<br />

Modern disorders such as obesity, anorexia and bulimia<br />

show that our relationship with food has become complicated.<br />

We no longer eat purely for our body’s needs.<br />

It is claimed that eating is the first manifestation of love.<br />

For adults, food may be a substitute for love. Dream interpreters<br />

suggest the same thing. In dream symbolism, food<br />

indicates the feelings and longings of the dreamer. The food<br />

in the dream might suggest <strong>ce</strong>rtain missed experien<strong>ce</strong>s or<br />

what the dreamer longs for in life. Similarly, it matters who<br />

pro<strong>vi</strong>des the grub (or love) in the dream. Or who refuses it.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

istockphoto<br />

19


a sudden overdose oF BeauTY Can MaKe You<br />

JusT as sICK as an eaTInG BInGe WIll.<br />

20 V I A HELSINKI<br />

How does<br />

food affect us?<br />

Do you order “the usual” or vegetarian on a flight? Do you<br />

think about what you eat? Do you eat healthily? Are there a<br />

lot of additives in your meals? Do you choose low fat prod-<br />

ucts, locally-sour<strong>ce</strong>d or organic food?<br />

We constantly fa<strong>ce</strong> such choi<strong>ce</strong>s. We are drowning in a<br />

sea of comestible data, but it’s inconsistent. Scientific find-<br />

ings and recommendations change all the time with new re-<br />

search, so we feel un<strong>ce</strong>rtain. Am I eating well? It is ever hard-<br />

er to answer this question. There’s an increasing proportion<br />

of additives and genetically modified or otherwise altered<br />

ingredients in our diet and no one knows the consequen<strong>ce</strong>s.<br />

A completely separate question – but just as interesting –<br />

is how the ingredients we eat or drink affect how we experi-<br />

en<strong>ce</strong> the world. Yet one thing is <strong>ce</strong>rtain, they do have an im-<br />

pact. Plant-derived sedatives and drugs have been around<br />

for aeons and people around the world have used them to al-<br />

ter their consciousness. Modern scien<strong>ce</strong> does the same with<br />

synthetic products in particular, such as sedatives and anti-<br />

depressants. We also like to change our consciousness our-<br />

selves and splash out huge sums on stimulants, such as al-<br />

cohol. What does this tell us? Do most of us really want to<br />

escape from our own lives and surroundings for a while?<br />

Not all substan<strong>ce</strong>s blur our sense of reality the way alco-<br />

hol does, and the effect may be the opposite, heightening our<br />

Capital Tastes<br />

COPEnHAGEn 1 hr 35 min<br />

the suc<strong>ce</strong>ss story of Smørrebrød, the<br />

danish sandwich, began in the latter half<br />

of the 19th <strong>ce</strong>ntury, when the copenhagen<br />

offi<strong>ce</strong>rs’ club created the first sandwich<br />

menu. key to Smørrebrød is that you can<br />

be imaginative and relaxed about preparing<br />

them. and you can enjoy them as an<br />

everyday snack, as a main meal, and with<br />

a beer or schnapps. you can pile absolutely<br />

anything you want onto a thin sli<strong>ce</strong><br />

of bread – vegetables, cheese, meat, even<br />

chocolate, fruit salad and whipped cream.<br />

awareness, at least if you believe essayist, novelist and social<br />

critic Aldous Huxley. He became a guinea pig for a research-<br />

er studying the effects of mescaline on the human mind and<br />

on interpretations of external reality.<br />

One May morning in the 1950s, Huxley swallowed 0.4 g<br />

of mescaline in a glass of water. Huxley reported that that<br />

minuscule drop of mescaline taken from the peyote cactus<br />

drastically changed his per<strong>ce</strong>ption of reality, of himself and<br />

his body. He based his world-famous book The Doors of Per-<br />

<strong>ce</strong>ption on his experien<strong>ce</strong>s.<br />

Surprisingly, Huxley did not feel that mescaline fabricat-<br />

ed reality but conversely, it helped him understand its in-<br />

nermost make-up. Encouraged by his experien<strong>ce</strong>s, he asks<br />

in his book whether we actually see the world as it is, at all.<br />

Huxley explains that beluga whales, for example, per<strong>ce</strong>ive<br />

the world in four dimensions and not three, as humans do.<br />

In bats, hearing and touch are combined with sight, so their<br />

awareness of phenomena is more comprehensive than ours.<br />

He believed that the operation of human senses <strong>vi</strong>a the brain<br />

and nervous system tended to eliminate rather than produ<strong>ce</strong><br />

sensation. So, we don’t per<strong>ce</strong>ive everything that exists. Only<br />

part of it filters through to us.<br />

In this other consciousness, the “ego” became less impor-<br />

tant and Huxley says he felt more like a small part of a large<br />

entity. Also, his relationship with his own body changed, as<br />

though he had strayed from his body without identifying<br />

with it. Different things now seemed important and he be-<br />

came more interested in the deep meaning of things. Time<br />

as a phenomenon disappeared, and he noti<strong>ce</strong>d he no long-<br />

Helsinki airport is also a gateway to a world of flavours. The cuisine typical of the pla<strong>ce</strong>s awaiting you at the end of<br />

ViEnnA 2 hr 30 min<br />

a culinary speciality in the cafes of<br />

Vienna is Sachertorte, a chocolate<br />

cake flavoured with apricot jam. this<br />

came into existen<strong>ce</strong>, like diamonds,<br />

under extreme pressure. in 1832, Prin<strong>ce</strong><br />

Wenzel Clemens Metternich ordered<br />

his kitchen staff to produ<strong>ce</strong> a particularly<br />

tasty dessert for some unexpected<br />

guests. when the head chef was taken<br />

ill, his 16-year-old apprenti<strong>ce</strong> Franz<br />

Sacher had to fill in for his boss. the<br />

rest, as they say, is history.


er per<strong>ce</strong>ived his en<strong>vi</strong>ronment primarily through perspective<br />

but <strong>vi</strong>a colours and the inner meaning of entities in particular.<br />

This way of looking at and seeing the world and himself<br />

was completely different, but at the same time, Huxley said,<br />

it felt more real than real life.<br />

Was he describing a reality that had opened up to him<br />

momentarily when some shutter mechanism had switched<br />

off? He believed so. No need for the rest of us to take mes-<br />

your flight is part of their soul, a summary of their culture. Photos: iStockphoto<br />

nEW yORK 8 hr 40 min<br />

hot-dog stalls and carts are<br />

a familiar sight on the streets<br />

of new york. there is no precise<br />

information about the<br />

inventor of this popular commodity,<br />

but it is said that this<br />

fast-food classic came ashore<br />

in the big apple around the<br />

1870s, when the german-born<br />

immigrant Charles Feltman<br />

began to sell sausage buns<br />

on coney island.<br />

caline or drugs, but perhaps similar experien<strong>ce</strong>s are possible<br />

without them. Huxley’s accounts are surprisingly similar<br />

to those found in sacred books of different cultures or,<br />

for example, the collective discussions of physicist Da<strong>vi</strong>d<br />

Bohm and the philosopher Krishnamurti. Could that widening<br />

of consciousness we call enlightenment open a window<br />

to a different kind of reality than the one we have become<br />

accustomed to?<br />

bEiJinG 7 hr 40 min<br />

Peking duck, referred to as one<br />

national dish of china, has already<br />

spoiled gourmands for hundreds<br />

of years now. requiring much<br />

time and effort, it is mentioned<br />

for the first time in 1330, in the<br />

recipe book of the imperial kitchen.<br />

Peking duck is produ<strong>ce</strong>d<br />

from birds specially reared for the<br />

purpose, and is roasted so that its<br />

skin becomes particularly tasty<br />

and crisp.<br />

SEOUL 8 hr 35 min<br />

in korea, the taste<br />

of all tastes is the<br />

fiery kimchi, lacticacid<br />

fermented<br />

chinese cabbage,<br />

served as an<br />

accompaniment<br />

and as part of a<br />

dish, such as kimchi ri<strong>ce</strong> or soup. the spi<strong>ce</strong>s<br />

used are chilli, onion, garlic, radish and<br />

ginger. the roots of this national dish extend<br />

back to the 7th <strong>ce</strong>ntury.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

21


22 V I A HELSINKI<br />

Feast the eye,<br />

feed the soul<br />

Mediaeval illustrations show black demons fleeing the<br />

mouths of the healed, while golden threads are said to bind<br />

the mouths of poets to heaven. Food and the mouth are closely<br />

associated with each other and to spirituality. We eat our<br />

food and breathe through the mouth, which also generates the<br />

speech by which we communicate. They also say the mouth<br />

speaks what fills the heart.<br />

Many artists are con<strong>vi</strong>n<strong>ce</strong>d that man is not purely a physical<br />

being but also a spiritual one. For them, a beautiful en<strong>vi</strong>ronment,<br />

music, the <strong>vi</strong>sual arts, literature, poetry or a walk<br />

in the garden or in the wilds seem to satisfy a different kind<br />

of hunger than a physical one. A person who craves food for<br />

the soul or what is pleasant to the eye will waste from within<br />

exactly as if they were to starve.<br />

Yet a sudden overdose of beauty can make you just as sick<br />

as an eating binge will, as Italian psychiatrist Graziella Magherini<br />

noti<strong>ce</strong>d in her work in Floren<strong>ce</strong>. Foreign tourists often<br />

arrived at her practi<strong>ce</strong> complaining of similar symptoms;<br />

nausea, palpitations and confusion.<br />

She realised their symptoms stemmed from an ex<strong>ce</strong>ptionally<br />

intense art-related experien<strong>ce</strong>, from art-indu<strong>ce</strong>d ecstasy,<br />

a kind of extreme reaction to an aesthetic experien<strong>ce</strong>. She diagnosed<br />

the condition unofficially as Stendhal syndrome, referring<br />

to the French author Stendhal (1783–1842, real name<br />

Marie-Henri Beyle), who described similar symptoms in his<br />

work Rome, Naples et Floren<strong>ce</strong>. In 1979, the sickness was diagnosed<br />

as psychosomatic.<br />

Huxley too, became con<strong>vi</strong>n<strong>ce</strong>d that man, aware that he is<br />

not seeing the full picture, tries to reach towards it. Besides<br />

edible food, we need food for the soul and a feast for the eye.<br />

He believed art, religion, carnivals, dan<strong>ce</strong> and prayer served<br />

as doors in an enclosing wall. We try to pass through these<br />

doors to extend our consciousness beyond the enclosing wall<br />

– and thus see more of reality.<br />

numerous encyclopaedias and websites have been used for information in<br />

this feature, including the Spectrum series, CD-Fakta and wikipedia, among<br />

others. other referen<strong>ce</strong>s: J. krishnamurti and da<strong>vi</strong>d bohm: The Ending of<br />

Time, anthony de Mello: Awakening, Meister eckhart: The depths of the soul.<br />

The World on a Plate<br />

Helsinki Airport offers a plethora of tasty delights for<br />

peckish travellers, whether you’re in a terminal or on the<br />

plane. At this intersection of food cultures you’re sure<br />

to find something to satisfy you, whatever your taste or<br />

mood.<br />

AT THE AiRPORT…<br />

…light snacks are on offer at Bar Delight (gate 14), Café<br />

Picnic (terMinal 2) and Café Tuuli (gate 27), where you<br />

can also buy food to take away. take-away fare is also available<br />

from Picnic Take Away (terMinal 2/arriVals 2a)<br />

and Go! Café (gate 20 and terMinal 1).<br />

finnish cuisine is pro<strong>vi</strong>ded by Café Alvar A (gate 24),<br />

decorated in the style of architect Alvar Aalto, and Seasons<br />

restaurant & Café (gate 14).<br />

savour a full-course meal at My City Helsinki (gate 35),<br />

amid decor that draws from finnish nature and design, and<br />

Fly Inn restaurant & Deli (gate 27), commanding <strong>vi</strong>ews of<br />

the runway.<br />

it is worth stopping at Cesar’s Pizza & Food Court (terMinal<br />

2) for a buffet meal or at breakfast time. Coffee Spoon<br />

(check-in area of terMinal 2), is the pla<strong>ce</strong> for snacks,<br />

soups and salads.<br />

in THE AiR…<br />

…the conditions may be tricky and there are limited options,<br />

so meal planning becomes important. Planning depends on<br />

the route. “the length of the flight determines the arrangements,”<br />

explains Maarit Örn, head of Product development<br />

at finnair catering, which is responsible for supplying meals<br />

to many other companies besides finnair. on long-haul<br />

flights, the meals on the return journey are sour<strong>ce</strong>d from the<br />

destination country to guarantee their freshness.<br />

the dishes are also selected on the basis of the route.<br />

they must appeal to as many people as possible.<br />

“our current theme is nordic cuisine, but we also take<br />

account of the food culture of the destination countries,”<br />

Maarit notes.<br />

she says the scandina<strong>vi</strong>an theme is apparent in the simplicity<br />

of the meals and in their ingredients. salmon, reindeer,<br />

chanterelles and finnish cheeses and berries are much<br />

in e<strong>vi</strong>den<strong>ce</strong>, though other national tastes are also taken into<br />

account. for example, Japanese passengers are offered<br />

white fish, and indians are always offered vegetables as a<br />

choi<strong>ce</strong> of main course.<br />

the caterers also take ideas from asia for european<br />

flights, because eastern food is enjoyed right around the<br />

world.


When Flavours Meet<br />

WHen easT MeeTs WesT In THe KITCHen,<br />

TWo ToTallY dIFFerenT Worlds oF TasTe<br />

CoMe FaCe To FaCe. WHICH Is preCIselY<br />

WHY THeY Have so MuCH To oFFer.<br />

“it is worth throwing Eastern and Western flavours together in the<br />

same meal, rather than on the same plate. If you combine them in the<br />

same dish, too many compromises have to be made. You can <strong>ce</strong>rtainly<br />

try to combine the methods of preparation and cooking”, says chef<br />

Matti Jämsen.<br />

In his opinion, the best part of Eastern cuisine is its spiciness, which<br />

should be introdu<strong>ce</strong>d to the West. “The world of flavours is richer in the<br />

East: there is fieriness and sweetness and a lot of flavours in between.”<br />

The converse idea is more difficult in his opinion, but in the East<br />

they could at least learn something from the simplicity of Western<br />

cooking. In the production of sushi, for instan<strong>ce</strong>, the idea is <strong>ce</strong>rtainly<br />

coming to fruition.<br />

Jämsen represented Finland in the 2011 Bocuse d'Or, the world's<br />

most respected cooking competition. In October, he participated in<br />

the Helsinki Airport Food & Fun event, which brought together 12 top<br />

experts in Asian and Western cuisine. The participants were split into<br />

Eastbound and Westbound teams, of which Jämsen belonged to the latter.<br />

For Thai chef Manit Poonhiran, who represented the East, when<br />

different styles of cuisine come fa<strong>ce</strong> to fa<strong>ce</strong>, it is a question of borrowing<br />

ideas above all, and not so much about mixing food cultures. So if<br />

the original ingredient is not available, he will use a local equivalent<br />

without a second thought. In Finland, papaya can be repla<strong>ce</strong>d with carrot<br />

or swede.<br />

Local tastes. The flavours of various countries are shaped, first and<br />

foremost, by their climatic conditions. The characteristics of food cultures<br />

are dictated initially by custom and constraints.<br />

Many ingredients commonpla<strong>ce</strong> in Thailand, such as lime, lemongrass<br />

and coriander, were for a long time unknown in Finland, and even<br />

today they are still imported. Before industrialisation, the raw ingredients<br />

were grown, collected and caught by the user. In countries with<br />

a short growing season, the shelf life of ingredients was paramount,<br />

which explains the strong foothold of salt, cabbage and swede in traditional<br />

Finnish food.<br />

In Thailand, it has been difficult to preserve raw ingredients for the<br />

opposite reason. Food goes off quickly in the heat. The basic spi<strong>ce</strong> of<br />

Thai food, renowned for its fieriness, is chilli pepper, which keeps food<br />

edible for longer, and in tropical regions the capsaicin in it is useful in<br />

another way too, cooling the body by making it sweat.<br />

Stepping into the fire. Both the fireworks of Eastern spi<strong>ce</strong>s and the<br />

mild flavours of Western food demand attention.<br />

We acquire our fondness for <strong>ce</strong>rtain tastes, which develop according<br />

to our surrounding food culture, which is why Thai food, for example,<br />

seems too fiery for many Finns.<br />

“Fieriness has not been part of our food culture. You become used<br />

to fiery food when you start eating it as a child. On the other hand,<br />

travel develops our palate from one generation to the next. Coriander<br />

has been introdu<strong>ce</strong>d to us in this way”, explains Jämsen.<br />

As these indi<strong>vi</strong>dual changes become more common they influen<strong>ce</strong><br />

the whole food culture, quite rapidly in fact. Poonhiran has first-hand<br />

experien<strong>ce</strong> of this phenomenon. While working in the Naantali Spa<br />

Hotel's Thai Garden restaurant, he has noti<strong>ce</strong>d that Finns who are particularly<br />

keen on holidaying in Thailand have quickly become lovers of<br />

fiery food. “When I started here as chef we used half a kilo of chilli a<br />

week. Now we’re using five kilos.”<br />

HelsInKI aIrporT Food & Fun,<br />

November 2010<br />

Teams of chefs gathered at this hub of air traffic<br />

between europe and asia to <strong>ce</strong>lebrate travel cuisine<br />

and the felicitous meeting of east and West.<br />

Their task was to create the travel food of the future<br />

– three travel-sized amuse-bouches, ‘amusements<br />

for the mouth’, which high-quality restaurants<br />

use as a way to greet their customers. They<br />

prepared three bite-sized morsels, one of fish, one<br />

of meat, and a dessert. They selected natural ingredients<br />

from east and West.<br />

The top chefs swapped ideas during the breaks<br />

and in the panel discussion on future trends, where<br />

it was found that air passengers expect quality<br />

and local sourcing of food, above all. To end it all<br />

their delicacies were gobbled down at the Fly Inn<br />

restaurant, which was also <strong>ce</strong>lebrating its opening.<br />

“We are absolutely <strong>ce</strong>rtain that at least some of<br />

these dishes will end up on our menu”, says Kalle<br />

Ruuskanen, Managing director of the restaurant’s<br />

owner, select ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> partner Finland.<br />

The event, which began in 2000 in reykja<strong>vi</strong>k,<br />

was in Finland for the first time and was organised<br />

by Finnair and I<strong>ce</strong>landair.<br />

www.foodnfun.fi<br />

Fly Inn GaTe 27<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

23


24 V I A HELSINKI


TEXT MEDIAFoCUS PHOTOS jArMo TEINILÄ<br />

Brand<br />

for World Sur<strong>vi</strong>val<br />

Be aFraId ClIMaTe CHanGe and oTHer<br />

World proBleMs – Here CoMes THe<br />

GrIM reaper. For one CounTrY Can<br />

save THe planeT – You’ve Guessed<br />

IT – FInland! MarIMeKKo CHIeF,<br />

MIKa IHaMuoTIla, Tells us WHY THe<br />

CounTrY Could Be a superHero.<br />

Brands are everywhere. We eat them, drink them,<br />

breathe them. But what sort of brand is a country,<br />

state or nation? And what’s the point of a brand<br />

you can’t buy or sell?<br />

A group of Finnish experts from different fields set out in<br />

late 2008 to answer these and many other questions. Their<br />

mandate from Foreign Minister Alexander Stubb was to de-<br />

termine Finland’s trump cards in a climate of ever fier<strong>ce</strong>r in-<br />

ternational competition – and how to play them.<br />

Many countries have carried out similar projects to show<br />

off their advantages. Country branding was widely seen as a<br />

way to attract tourists, students, experts and companies to a<br />

country. Now it was Finland’s turn to try.<br />

Nokia strong man Jorma Ollila headed the Finland Brand<br />

committee, guaranteeing media attention from the outset. The<br />

team worked mainly behind closed doors but it leaked onto<br />

the internet and TV, inspiring Finns to think about the sort of<br />

country Finland is and what its people are like. The aim had<br />

nothing to do with nostalgia; it was the future that mattered,<br />

right up to the year 2030.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

25


FunCTIonalITY Means THaT FInns FInd soluTIons<br />

To proBleMs and puT THeM InTo eFFeCT.<br />

Mission Possible! Finally, in November 2010 the Brand del-<br />

egation’s work bore fruit in a report of more than 300 pages,<br />

which, instead of advertising jargon, contained a number of<br />

missions that Finns – citizens, companies and state – should<br />

carry out if Finland is to achieve its objectives. Which are..?<br />

Nothing more or less than to be the number one country to<br />

solve the world’s most pressing problems!<br />

One member of the team, fashion house Marimekko’s CEO<br />

Mika Ihamuotila, smiles when he recalls the media’s about<br />

turn when they saw the report. “For the whole two years we<br />

heard nothing but doubt and criticism, but they changed their<br />

tune completely as soon as the report came out.”<br />

Ihamuotila thinks the change in the attitude of the press<br />

reflects the fact that the report addressed the core of Finn-<br />

ishness – Finns are people of action, unafraid to roll up their<br />

sleeves and get to work. The huge final report came as a call<br />

for united action – what Finns call ‘talkoot’.<br />

Yes, action. If you are going to learn even one word of Finnish<br />

you’d do well to start with talkoot, which says much about<br />

the national character. ‘Talkoot’ simply means working to-<br />

26 V I A HELSINKI<br />

gether – building a barn, a church or the welfare state, for<br />

no reward apart, perhaps, from a turn in the sauna in good<br />

company when the work is over.<br />

The Brand team’s noble idea is to turn attention away from<br />

the conventional targets of branding, the country, its history,<br />

its tourist destinations, and focus on the nation itself, the<br />

Finns and their culture in its various manifestations.<br />

The committee was supported in its ideas by Simon Anholt,<br />

the man who invented the country branding con<strong>ce</strong>pt<br />

almost 20 years ago. He organised five brainstorming sessions<br />

for the team, and as the leading guru in the field, he was ultimately<br />

impressed by their attitudes and level of commitment.<br />

“We think this is the most ambitious brand report ever<br />

produ<strong>ce</strong>d. And Anholt thought so too,” chuckles Ihamuotila.<br />

Plan for action. Jorma Ollila unveiled the report in November,<br />

calling it a model for the entire world. If people really<br />

wanted to move from talk to action, what could be a better<br />

solution than a practical manual? Ihamuotila agrees: “The<br />

Finland brand project will <strong>ce</strong>rtainly be one important point


of referen<strong>ce</strong> for countries that will do the same thing one day.<br />

This is one way to grab the bull by the horns.”<br />

So what aspects of Finland and its people does the Brand<br />

team highlight? The mighty tome relates to three key words,<br />

functionality, education, and nature. Of these the last is self-<br />

explanatory – Finland is a land of thousands of lakes and<br />

green forests where people put a high premium on their re-<br />

lationship with nature.<br />

In education, Finland is buoyant and representative. It is<br />

the shining star of the PISA studies, which have promoted<br />

the Finnish educational system far and wide. But what about<br />

Finnish functionality? The CEO and owner of Marimekko,<br />

Finland’s most legendary design company, is definitely the<br />

right man to answer this.<br />

“In a nutshell, functionality means that Finns find solu-<br />

tions to problems and put them into effect.” Ihamuotila be-<br />

lieves there are plenty of nations where creati<strong>vi</strong>ty and ideas<br />

abound but things just do not get done. There are also coun-<br />

tries that do not have a creative bent but do have the ability<br />

to carry out projects uncompromisingly.<br />

“Finland, however, is that rarity, a country with much cre-<br />

ati<strong>vi</strong>ty and capability to think about things from a new per-<br />

spective and, at the same time, the skills to make these <strong>vi</strong>-<br />

sions a reality.”<br />

Ihamuotila also mentions decorativeness, a hallmark of<br />

the design tradition in many countries, and often a value in<br />

itself. But decorativeness often means gaudy and flamboyant<br />

above all, whereas in Finland design has always rested on the<br />

notion that simple and functional are beautiful. “There is ob-<br />

<strong>vi</strong>ously a kind of as<strong>ce</strong>ticism behind this – we cannot afford<br />

to waste the few resour<strong>ce</strong>s of a small northern country. So<br />

our designers quickly learned to con<strong>ce</strong>ntrate on essentials.”<br />

As head of Marimekko, Ihamuotila ob<strong>vi</strong>ously knows fash-<br />

ion and the world of design best, but stresses that he means<br />

design in its broader sense. “Design extends to all areas of<br />

planning – whether you’re designing an educational system<br />

or a single school, or an airport, say, which must also func-<br />

tion in the winter and doesn’t cause congestion,” he says.<br />

“The question is how beauty and functionality can be com-<br />

bined in the best possible way.”<br />

Durable attitudes. Ihamuotila thinks a Finnish design phi-<br />

losophy is more ne<strong>ce</strong>ssary now than ever. With climate change<br />

we can no longer afford to produ<strong>ce</strong> disposable products. Du-<br />

rability is just as important as ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>ability among custom-<br />

ers the world over. “Durability has always been fundamen-<br />

tally important in Finnish design, but this is not so by any<br />

‘TO DO’ LiST FOR FinnS<br />

MiSSiOn FOR COMPAniES:<br />

solve a global problem and make good business out of it.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR SCHOOLS:<br />

every year schools should hold a day of reconciliation,<br />

when pupils practise discussing and resol<strong>vi</strong>ng conflicts.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR LOCAL AUTHORiTiES AnD THE STATE:<br />

Public procurement should favour energy-efficient products<br />

that can be ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>d and repaired.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR THE MiniSTRy OF FinAnCE:<br />

Make gross national sustainability measurable.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR THE MiniSTRy OF THE EnViROnMEnT:<br />

a water meter, i.e. water as a populariser of international<br />

en<strong>vi</strong>ronmental policy.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR SPORTS CELEbRiTiES:<br />

go to a school on<strong>ce</strong> a year to teach.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR THE MEDiA:<br />

take the popularisation of scien<strong>ce</strong> to a whole new level.<br />

MiSSiOn FOR GRAnDPAREnTS:<br />

share your manual skills.<br />

means in the traditions of other countries. Finns make lifts,<br />

drinking glasses and roads. No one can say these are disposable<br />

goods.”<br />

Ihamuotila had long pondered these matters before the<br />

country Brand team was set up. Three years ago the former<br />

banker made a great change in his life, abandoning the world<br />

of finan<strong>ce</strong> and taking over the management of Marimekko.<br />

The grand old lady of Finnish design, Kirsti Paakkanen,<br />

sold Ihamuotila an iconic firm she had on<strong>ce</strong> rescued from<br />

near death.<br />

Things were not easy for Ihamuotila either. When he took<br />

over Marimekko, Finland was gripped by economic crisis and<br />

the world was sinking into re<strong>ce</strong>ssion. Yet he was clear about<br />

the direction he would take the company in. “There may have<br />

been a re<strong>ce</strong>ssion but we wanted to continue with product development<br />

and open shops abroad,” he says, adding that the<br />

policy proved right. Marimekko has now built the foundations<br />

for a suc<strong>ce</strong>ssful future, he says.<br />

Marimekko’s re<strong>ce</strong>nt global triumphs recall the lines of a<br />

Leonard Cohen song; “First we take Manhattan, then we take<br />

Berlin.” Japan now has 20 Marimekko outlets and South Korea<br />

has just gained its first. Ihamuotila wants to bring to the<br />

world his sense of joy of life and his attitude through fashion<br />

and design. This year Marimekko is 60 years old. The company<br />

wants to cast off the “performan<strong>ce</strong>-<strong>ce</strong>ntred theatre”<br />

and repla<strong>ce</strong> it with well-being. At 60 the firm does not want<br />

to be merely a ‘heritage’ brand, simply resting on its laurels.<br />

“Marimekko’s ideology has always been to shy away from<br />

any kind of preten<strong>ce</strong>. When people have the courage to be<br />

themselves the world becomes a better pla<strong>ce</strong>,” Ihamuotila<br />

believes.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

27


28<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

DAN rIDEr PHOTOS ISToCKPHoTo, WIKIMEDIA


Lord<br />

Kings<br />

of the<br />

KInG HenrY vIII’s dYnaMIC<br />

personalITY doMInaTed<br />

HIs TIMe and ConTInues To<br />

FasCInaTe our oWn.<br />

He Was CroWned<br />

KInG aT WesT-<br />

MInsTer aBBeY<br />

In June 1509…<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

29


It was a reign that became a personal quest for fame<br />

30 V I A HELSINKI<br />

and power as obsessive as that of any 21st <strong>ce</strong>ntury <strong>ce</strong>-<br />

lebrity or politician. Rarely within the British mon-<br />

archy have events – in society, religion, foreign rela-<br />

tions and politics – so radically affected future generations.<br />

Above all, the English Reformation and the break with Rome<br />

would change the fa<strong>ce</strong> of England forever and Henry would<br />

banish in a single generation all his traditional medieval<br />

prede<strong>ce</strong>ssors as a stroke. The result was a revolutionary im-<br />

perial monarchy that would lead to Henry VIII becoming<br />

arguably the most infamous king in history. But, it would<br />

come at a severe pri<strong>ce</strong>.<br />

On 24th June 1509, the teenage Henry was crowned king<br />

in front of the high altar at Westminster Abbey in London.<br />

Just seventeen years old, his personality – sunny, romantic<br />

and gregarious – was the opposite of his father’s and prom-<br />

ised the new Tudor dynasty a fresh start. Henry though, was<br />

HenrY’s soap opera: sIx<br />

MarrIaGes, TWo WIves<br />

dIvorCed and TWo BeHeaded,<br />

produCed THree CHIldren<br />

BY dIFFerenT MoTHers.<br />

inheriting the crown with a heavy burden. His father, Henry<br />

VII, had died in his bed and died rich after a reign of almost<br />

24 years, but his dreams of an English monarchy that<br />

ruled Scotland, Ireland and Fran<strong>ce</strong> and dominated Europe<br />

too, had ended in frustration. The old king in his final years<br />

was regarded by his public as a miser and a tyrant and ruled<br />

his ‘empire’ like a private landlord, greedy for the ‘rent’. And<br />

for those who knew their history, including his son, this was<br />

not how a great ruler was supposed to behave.<br />

Henry VIII, however, was not brought up to be king. That<br />

future had been destined for his older brother Arthur, Prin<strong>ce</strong><br />

of Wales. Thus, as the second heir to the throne, Henry re<strong>ce</strong>ived<br />

a seemingly modern upbringing and was nurtured at<br />

Eltham Pala<strong>ce</strong>, Greenwich, by his mother Elizabeth and his<br />

sisters who idolised the strong and confident boy.<br />

Given the best education in Latin scholarship, Henry was<br />

highly intellectual, precocious and oozed star quality during<br />

his preteen years. Then it all changed. In 1502, when Henry<br />

was 11, his brother Arthur died of tuberculosis, followed<br />

soon after by his beloved mother. Now heir to the throne<br />

and growing up fast, a huge sour<strong>ce</strong> of conflict arose over his<br />

passionate participation in extreme sports, something his<br />

fier<strong>ce</strong>ly protective father was strongly against. These conflicting<br />

values would last until 21 April 1509, when his father<br />

died and Henry was crowned amidst wild s<strong>ce</strong>nes of popular<br />

rejoicing. Thus fired up with the idealism of youth and<br />

brought up on the legends of King Arthur and the heroic exploits<br />

of his an<strong>ce</strong>stor Henry V (and his famous <strong>vi</strong>ctory at the<br />

Battle of Agincourt), belie<strong>vi</strong>ng that a great king should also<br />

be a great warrior, Henry determined to make them the role<br />

models for his reign.<br />

With a large inheritan<strong>ce</strong> and the first pea<strong>ce</strong>ful transition<br />

of power sin<strong>ce</strong> the end of the War of the Roses in 1485, Henry’s<br />

court soon took on the feel of a magnifi<strong>ce</strong>nt party, with<br />

endless rounds of tournaments, jousts and courtly splendours.<br />

Soon all Europe was bedazzled by this <strong>vi</strong>brant young<br />

king and the associated glamour and pageantry. His desire<br />

was ob<strong>vi</strong>ous – a ‘splendid monarchy’ – and for glory, the impending<br />

conquest of Fran<strong>ce</strong>.<br />

Just days after his 18th birthday and 13 days before he was<br />

crowned, he married his brothers’ widow, the Spanish prin<strong>ce</strong>ss<br />

Catherine of Aragon, six years his senior. While <strong>ce</strong>menting<br />

England’s allian<strong>ce</strong> with Spain against Fran<strong>ce</strong>, Henry loved<br />

the confident, powerful and beautiful Catherine, but as the<br />

years passed and she failed to produ<strong>ce</strong> an heir – though his<br />

<strong>vi</strong>ctories in Fran<strong>ce</strong> had restored England’s heroism in battle<br />

– his personal life became increasingly fraught.


y 1525, Henry was a still youthful 34, but Catherine, who<br />

he’d long sin<strong>ce</strong> fallen out of love with, was 40 and had aged<br />

badly. She was almost continually pregnant during the first<br />

ten years of marriage but only one child sur<strong>vi</strong>ved, a daughter<br />

Mary (later to reign as queen from 1553–1558 and earn her-<br />

self the nickname Bloody Mary for her burning of Catholics).<br />

Like other kings, Henry had numerous mistresses and<br />

even a known son by one of them, but as his need for a male<br />

heir became palpable, into the s<strong>ce</strong>ne stepped Anne Boleyn,<br />

sister of one of his former mistresses. Seductive, intelligent<br />

and highly sexual, Anne refused sexual relations with Hen-<br />

ry unless he agreed to marry her. Still married to Catherine,<br />

who refused a divor<strong>ce</strong>, Henry eagerly began looking for le-<br />

gal grounds to dissolve the marriage, though he was fearful<br />

that the result might cause war with Spain.<br />

After two failed divor<strong>ce</strong> trials, by 1529, Henry was furious<br />

with both Catherine and Pope Clement VII who had failed<br />

to give him the freedom he so desired. Ordering his friend<br />

Thomas More to enfor<strong>ce</strong> religious changes that would allow<br />

him to remarry, finally, on 15th May 1531, with the shocked<br />

but obedient support of his parliament and the required leg-<br />

islation, Henry proclaimed himself Head of the Church of<br />

England. This assertion of the new royal Supremacy opened<br />

the way to a Protestant English Church separate from the<br />

Roman Catholic Church in Rome, a state which continues<br />

to the present day.<br />

It would be a dramatic but ultimately fleeting <strong>vi</strong>ctory,<br />

for more troubles had arisen. By Christmas 1532, Anne was<br />

pregnant and in strict secrecy, in January 1533, he married<br />

her though Catherine was still legally his wife. With a third<br />

divor<strong>ce</strong> trial, the new Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas<br />

Cranmer, swiftly ruled the first marriage void and Henry,<br />

after seven years of battle, finally had the queen he wanted.<br />

A new daughter, Elizabeth, soon followed (who as Elizabeth<br />

I, the ‘Virgin Queen’, reigned from 1558–1603 and during<br />

that heady Shakespearean era, became perhaps the monar-<br />

chy’s most iconic queen).<br />

The fate of Anne was more tragic however, as after only<br />

three years of marriage, she was sent to the Tower of London<br />

and executed on lurid (and now thought partly true) charges<br />

of adultery, in<strong>ce</strong>st and sexual perversion, when in reality her<br />

crime was mostly failing to adjust from the dominant role of<br />

mistress to submissive wife. She had also failed to produ<strong>ce</strong> a<br />

male heir. A day after Anne’s execution, on 30th May, 1536,<br />

Henry married the demure and conservative Jane Seymour<br />

who gave Henry a son, Edward (who became King Edward<br />

VI upon Henry’s death and reigned between 1547–1553).<br />

And though Jane died a few days later of puerperal fever,<br />

Henry’s first two disputed marriages and lack of male heir<br />

were now solved.<br />

by 1544, Henry, in the third decade of his reign, ruled England<br />

more like an emperor than a mere king. Though increasingly<br />

corpulent and plagued by ill-health – due to his continuing<br />

heroic consumption of alcohol and fatty red meat, a<br />

badly healed jousting wound and re<strong>ce</strong>nt e<strong>vi</strong>den<strong>ce</strong> that suggests<br />

advan<strong>ce</strong>d syphilis – he continued to rule with absolute<br />

power and growing tyranny. Yet, by making himself Supreme<br />

Head of the Church of England, plundering the monasteries’<br />

vast financial resour<strong>ce</strong>s and becoming extremely rich, he<br />

took the monarchy to an historical peak that has never been<br />

surpassed. He died on January 28th, 1547, aged 55.<br />

He was a true Renaissan<strong>ce</strong> man, heroic in war, egotistical,<br />

charismatic to all and fluent in several languages. But the soap<br />

opera turmoil – of six marriages (to Anne of Cleves, Catherine<br />

Howard and Catherine Parr in later years), two wives<br />

divor<strong>ce</strong>d (and two famously beheaded) that produ<strong>ce</strong>d three<br />

children by different mothers – created a fractured legacy for<br />

generations to come. Henry VIII however, has forever been<br />

immortalised as a complex, towering, lustful and brutally<br />

controversial cultural icon of the British Monarchy.<br />

the second-in-line to the british throne, hrh Prin<strong>ce</strong> William of wales, will<br />

marry Miss Catherine Middleton at westminster abbey, london on friday<br />

april 29th.<br />

Destination London<br />

The marriage of Prin<strong>ce</strong><br />

william to kate Middleton<br />

will be the 15th royal<br />

wedding at westminster<br />

abbey sin<strong>ce</strong> king henry i<br />

married Queen Mathilda<br />

of scotland in november<br />

1100. the abbey has<br />

also been the location for all british coronations sin<strong>ce</strong><br />

1066.<br />

following the april 29th wedding <strong>ce</strong>remony, the<br />

carriage pro<strong>ce</strong>ssion will then follow a route from westminster<br />

abbey to Parliament square, whitehall, horse<br />

guards Parade and the Mall before ending at<br />

buckingham Pala<strong>ce</strong>. large screens will also be erected<br />

in trafalgar square & hyde Park to <strong>vi</strong>ew the live event.<br />

Visit www.<strong>vi</strong>ewlondon.co.uk for an exhaustive guide to<br />

the wedding and much more…<br />

Finnair, British Airways & easyjet fly from Helsinki<br />

Airport to London Heathrow / Gatwick daily.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

31


HelsInKI<br />

aIrporT’s<br />

neW eleCTronIC<br />

aIr TraFFIC<br />

ConTrol sYsTeM<br />

unIQuelY CoMBInes<br />

rouTe ClearanCes,<br />

perMIssIons To<br />

proCeed and<br />

sITuaTIonal snapsHoTs,<br />

THanKs To<br />

a surveIllanCe<br />

radar sYsTeM.<br />

32 V I A HELSINKI<br />

MAArIT SEELING PHOTO FINAVIA


Super Pen<br />

Repla<strong>ce</strong>s Paper<br />

estriP controls helsinki airPort’s air striPs<br />

Helsinki Airport’s air traffic control system is<br />

now one of the most up-to-date in the world,<br />

following a programme of modernisation this<br />

winter. An electronic flight strip system called<br />

(eSTrIP) allows the strips used for tracking<br />

aircraft to be controlled by touching a screen<br />

with a pen. The system repla<strong>ce</strong>s the old method<br />

based on paper flight progress strips.<br />

The electronic system makes air traffic control<br />

at the airport more effective and flexible. The<br />

eSTrIPs are an aid in controlling air traffic, taxi<br />

clearan<strong>ce</strong> and vehicle traffic.<br />

air traffic controller<br />

Sami Niemi was inter<strong>vi</strong>ewed<br />

for this article.<br />

sami was a member<br />

of the air traffic<br />

control modernisation<br />

team.<br />

Pilots always need permission from air traffic control<br />

before they can pro<strong>ce</strong>ed along a taxiway or runway.<br />

route clearan<strong>ce</strong>s can be sent from the eSTrIP system<br />

digitally straight to the flight deck of an aircraft. So by<br />

manoeuvring the electronic strips on a monitor screen<br />

and by writing notes in them, air traffic controllers can<br />

ensure, for example, that no two aeroplanes are on the<br />

runway at the same time.<br />

Airport vehicles are equipped with radio transmitters<br />

and Global Positioning Systems which pro<strong>vi</strong>de air traffic<br />

control with real-time updates on their movements. Air-<br />

field surveillan<strong>ce</strong> (surfa<strong>ce</strong> movement) radar also allows<br />

the eSTrIP system to be integrated with airfield light-<br />

ing control. In future it will be possible to control light-<br />

ing <strong>vi</strong>a the eSTrIP system automatically.<br />

The innovations are an attempt to re-<br />

spond to future growth in air traffic and<br />

to improve traffic safety. Several elec-<br />

tronic air traffic control development<br />

projects are underway around the world,<br />

though for the time being such highly<br />

automated systems as this are still rare.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

33


Eliel Saarinen was among the most famous<br />

European architects of his time, whose status<br />

in the foundation of American Art Deco<br />

and modernism is indisputable. Finnish-<br />

American Eero is generally regarded as one<br />

of American modernism’s leading figures.<br />

34 V I A HELSINKI<br />

TEXT MINNA KALAjoKI PHOTOS WIKIMEDIA<br />

Their architectural saga began in the Katajanokka<br />

district of Helsinki, with the Tallberg building,<br />

which Eliel Saarinen and his fellow students de-<br />

signed, while still only about twenty years old, in<br />

1898. It is still in superb condition. Many other Art Nouveau<br />

buildings in the neighbourhood are also the work of the Saarin-<br />

en, Gesellius & Lindgren firm of architects. Lucky indeed are<br />

the residents of such pla<strong>ce</strong>s.<br />

To end the story we could turn our eyes upwards to the top<br />

of the 38 storey CBS Building in Manhattan, New York, which<br />

remains as the last work designed by Eero Saarinen, the great<br />

name in American modernism.<br />

Between these two buildings on two continents unfolds the<br />

story of the Saarinen design family. Eliel was among the most<br />

famous European architects of his time, whose status in the<br />

foundation of American Art Deco and modernism is indis-<br />

putable. Finnish-American Eero is generally regarded as one<br />

of American modernism’s leading figures.<br />

How did the Saarinens end up in the United States? Hel-<br />

sinki at the turn of the 20th <strong>ce</strong>ntury was fascinating enough.


Dynasty<br />

of<br />

Design<br />

THe 630-FooT HIGH sTeel sT. louIs<br />

GaTeWaY arCH and THe poWerFullY<br />

naTIonal roManTIC naTIonal<br />

MuseuM In HelsInKI sHare a CoMMon<br />

anCesTrY. lITerallY. THeY are BoTH<br />

THe oFFsprInG oF THe exCepTIonallY<br />

CreaTIve and GIFTed saarInen FaMIlY.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

35


anYone WHo Has leFT neW YorK’s JFK aIrporT Has surelY<br />

noTICed THe TWa TerMInal, lIKe a BIrd TaKInG FlIGHT.<br />

IT Was desIGned BY eero saarInen.<br />

Nationalism was thri<strong>vi</strong>ng, independen<strong>ce</strong> was at the door,<br />

and in Finland alone there were plenty of opportunities for<br />

designers. Key to their triumph in America was a Chicago-<br />

based newspaper, but we’ll come back to that.<br />

Eliel was the well-mannered son of a <strong>vi</strong>car and always<br />

dressed impeccably. He worked long hours at the firm of ar-<br />

chitects established by himself and two fellow students, who<br />

had just won a commission to design Finland’s pa<strong>vi</strong>lion at<br />

the 1900 World Fair in Paris.<br />

And what a pa<strong>vi</strong>lion it was! They were bursting to show<br />

their worth and this talented trio of young men worked on<br />

the national romantic structure day and night. The castle-<br />

like edifi<strong>ce</strong>, decorated with splendid works of art, was wide-<br />

ly hailed in the European press.<br />

After Paris, contracts for work and suc<strong>ce</strong>ss in architectural<br />

competitions poured in, with several residential buildings in<br />

Helsinki, the National Museum of Finland, the Helsinki rail-<br />

way station... and as if there wasn’t enough to do, the young<br />

architects decided to build a studio for themselves outside<br />

Helsinki at a pla<strong>ce</strong> called H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk.<br />

Offi<strong>ce</strong> for a new age. This became a collective work of art<br />

in tune with the spirit of the times. Many fittings and items<br />

of furniture were built in, and every ornament was specially<br />

designed for the premises. This thinking characterised the<br />

Saarinens’ working methods later too; they saw architecture<br />

as a collective whole comprising the landscape, the buildings,<br />

the furniture, fittings and ornaments.<br />

That newspaper which proved such a milestone in the<br />

Saarinen story was the Chicago Tribune, 7,000 kilometres<br />

away from Helsinki railway station. The biggest newspaper<br />

in the Midwest, it <strong>ce</strong>lebrated its 75th anniversary in 1922, and<br />

to honour it the paper organised a design competition for a<br />

Eliel Saarinen, 1873 rantasalmi, finland – 1950 bloomfield<br />

hills, Michigan, usa. one of the most famous finnish<br />

architects and designers; his styles included art nouveau,<br />

art deco and the first generation of modernism.<br />

Eero Saarinen, 1910 kirkkonummi, finland – 1961 ann<br />

arbor, Michigan, usa. finnish-american architect and<br />

designer; among the most famous exponents of the second<br />

generation of modernism in the united states.<br />

36 V I A HELSINKI<br />

new-age offi<strong>ce</strong> building. Naturally, this had to be a skyscraper.<br />

The judges had already selected the winners when Saari-<br />

nen’s proposal arrived at the eleventh hour, and it e<strong>vi</strong>dently<br />

stunned them. They are said to have written: “If the proposal<br />

that arrived at the last moment from Europe had not been so<br />

ex<strong>ce</strong>ptionally beautiful and had not demonstrated such bril-<br />

liant understanding of the requirements of an American offi<strong>ce</strong><br />

building, the outcome of the competition would have been<br />

consistent with the vote already made”. They took another<br />

vote and Saarinen’s proposal swept second prize.<br />

Even today, one wonders how an architect from a small,<br />

distant land suc<strong>ce</strong>eded in establishing the essen<strong>ce</strong> and tech-<br />

nical requirements of an American skyscraper. The design as<br />

such was not implemented but the much publicised competi-<br />

tion opened doors for Saarinen to the wider world.<br />

Project for the whole family. The talented Finnish archi-<br />

tect grabbed the attention of the renowned art patron George<br />

G. Booth, who encouraged Saarinen to move with his family<br />

to the United States in 1923. His assignment was to design<br />

Booth’s dream, Cranbrook Academy of Arts in Michigan.<br />

His son, Eero, at that time a teenager, had literally grown up<br />

under the drawing tables of the H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk studio. We shall<br />

hear more from him later.<br />

Over the years, the Saarinen family of designers, as they<br />

had become known, de<strong>vi</strong>sed a complex of dozens of build-<br />

ings. Eliel handled the buildings, Eero charted the details of<br />

their furniture and fittings, Eliel’s daughter Pipsan added<br />

decorative paintings to their <strong>ce</strong>ilings and his wife Loja over-<br />

saw the textile design. The interiors, of which there are many,<br />

are still fine examples of Art Deco.<br />

Saarinen also worked as a director of education and at-<br />

tracted renowned European designers and artists to Cran-<br />

brook. The influen<strong>ce</strong> can still be seen in the Academy of Art<br />

to this day.<br />

Eero Saarinen graduated as an architect from Yale and<br />

started work in his father’s offi<strong>ce</strong> in 1938 after a few years<br />

spent in Europe. As a result of seamless collaboration, the<br />

Kleinhans Music Hall (Buffalo, N.Y.) and the First Chris-<br />

tian Church (Columbus, Indiana), among other buildings,<br />

came into being.


Great arc of modernism. Eero’s personal breakthrough<br />

was <strong>vi</strong>ctory in 1948 in the design contest for a memorial to<br />

President Jefferson and westward expansion. This was the<br />

first time father and son competed with their own proposals.<br />

The reinfor<strong>ce</strong>d concrete Gateway Arch in St. Louis (Miss.),<br />

is ingenious in its simplicity, and many regard it to be Eero’s<br />

most impressive work.<br />

The General Motors Technical Center (Warren, Michigan)<br />

became the Saarinen offi<strong>ce</strong>’s main assignment, for which Ee-<br />

ro prepared the final blueprints. The vast business campus,<br />

incorporating materials borrowed from the car industry and<br />

a host of new ideas was inaugurated in 1956, after six years<br />

of building. This outstanding work of modern architecture<br />

was soon dubbed “the Versailles of Industry”.<br />

The Technical Center elevated Eero to become one of the<br />

highest-profile architects in the United States in the 1950s.<br />

Both press and public loved experimental and open-mind-<br />

ed modernism. This work, which was in tune with the times<br />

or even ahead of them, symbolised just what the Americans<br />

hungered for: progress, optimism, and industrial and com-<br />

mercial supremacy.<br />

There were indeed critics who sneered at the architect for<br />

his constant changes of style, but they did not discourage Ee-<br />

ro as he surveyed the long queues of clients at the door of Ee-<br />

ro Saarinen and Associates. After the attention from the GM<br />

coup, every self-respecting company wanted him in partic-<br />

ular to design their head offi<strong>ce</strong>. The master himself adorned<br />

magazine covers – including Time – with a fat cigar in the<br />

corner of his mouth.<br />

Art and commercialism also shook hands in that Coca-<br />

Cola advert where Father Christmas sits in a Womb chair de-<br />

signed by Eero Saarinen. Many of the pie<strong>ce</strong>s created by the<br />

younger Saarinen have become coveted furniture classics,<br />

his Tulip Chair being selected for the permanent collection<br />

of The Museum on Modern Art (MoMA).<br />

The now de<strong>ce</strong>ased Eliel Saarinen had declared: “home is<br />

where the work is” and Eero continued the sentiment. Work<br />

and <strong>vi</strong>rtually no free time took on an unpre<strong>ce</strong>dented inten-<br />

sity. It is said that Eero was always drawing wherever he was,<br />

even on the edges of paper napkins in restaurants. He drew<br />

with both right and left hands with ease.<br />

Yet the prolific Eero was clearly not as naturally gifted as<br />

his father. While Eliel could sketch huge entities and design<br />

them to completion in one go – such as the Chicago Tribune<br />

Tower – Eero drafted hundreds of alternatives, and even then<br />

he might make changes during building.<br />

Shaping the future. Eero’s most impressive buildings are<br />

well known to air passengers. Anyone who has left New York’s<br />

JFK Airport has surely noted the TWA terminal resembling<br />

a bird taking flight. This now protected building still seems<br />

surprisingly modern. Dulles International Airport (Wash-<br />

ington D.C.) was also designed by Saarinen.<br />

The idea for the shape of the TWA terminal reputedly<br />

emerged when the architect examined the remains of his<br />

grapefruit at the breakfast table. Later he explained his design<br />

had tried to attain “the spirit of flight”. Typical of Saarinen,<br />

the terminal’s winged concrete arches and sculpted exteri-<br />

or emphasised the optimism of his time and the glamour of<br />

flying in those days.<br />

Tragic indeed that Eero was not around to see his most fa-<br />

mous works completed. He died when he was only 51 years<br />

old in 1961. The TWA terminal was completed the following<br />

year, the Gateway Arch in 1965. In fact all the works uncom-<br />

pleted at his death were eventually finished.<br />

Eero Saarinen is buried in Ann Arbor, Michigan, while<br />

Eliel’s ashes were scattered as he wished beneath the monu-<br />

mental pine trees at H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk. Could it be that these same<br />

soaring pines had inspired him to design the Chicago Trib-<br />

une Tower?<br />

among the referen<strong>ce</strong>s used for this account are timo tuomi’s book Eliel<br />

ja Eero Saarinen (ajatus kirjat, 2007).<br />

elIel saarInen FooTprInTs In HelsInKI<br />

KARTTA<br />

1. Tallberg building 1898<br />

2. The Pohjola Insuran<strong>ce</strong> Company building 1901<br />

3. H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk studio 1902<br />

4. olofsborg 1902<br />

5. Eol 1903<br />

6. National Museum of Finland 1905–1910<br />

7. Helsinki Central railway Station 1905–1914<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

37


M I L E S T o N E<br />

The Glamour of<br />

Football<br />

The UEFA Champions League qual-<br />

ifying round in 1998 pitted HJK<br />

against Yerevan with just two weeks’<br />

noti<strong>ce</strong>, and in many ways that trip<br />

to Armenia has stayed in my memory. There were no direct<br />

scheduled flights, and the tight calendar meant that in the end<br />

we had to organise a privately chartered plane from Tallinn,<br />

then used by Estonia’s President, Lennart Meri.<br />

You might have thought the aircraft would have met states-<br />

manlike standards but it turned out to be such a shabby pro-<br />

peller plane that Finnish airports refused it permission to<br />

land. So we began our journey to Yerevan by ferry across the<br />

Gulf of Finland to Estonia.<br />

The game was very important, but we didn’t really know<br />

what to expect, so we even took along our own food and<br />

drink. Although we travel almost a hundred days a year, this<br />

cramped, windowless aircraft was perhaps the scariest expe-<br />

rien<strong>ce</strong> we had ever had, and one of our players with a fear of<br />

flying had to be given a sleeping drug.<br />

At the end of the millennium Armenia might have been<br />

poor but they loved their football. FC Yerevan fans were pas-<br />

sionate and home team supporters soon laid siege to our ho-<br />

tel, yelling long into the night and hurling stones at the win-<br />

dows. I was still quite a young lad, unused to the threats of<br />

football fans.<br />

Even the local stadium was in danger of collapsing but<br />

the game went well for us. We won 0–3. This <strong>vi</strong>tal <strong>vi</strong>ctory in<br />

difficult circumstan<strong>ce</strong>s meant that HJK was the first Finn-<br />

ish team to qualify for the 1998–1999 Champions League.<br />

The return trip was as eventful as the journey out. Fanci-<br />

ful documentation charges delayed our departure, with our<br />

aircraft captain and an airport official finally striking a deal.<br />

38 V I A HELSINKI<br />

MAArIT SEELING PHOTO SUSA jUNNoLA<br />

But we had to wait for four hours in an aeroplane with no<br />

air-conditioning. As the temperature rose our shirts were the<br />

first to come off. By the time it had got to about 50 Celsius<br />

in the cabin we were all in our underpants. Our delay also<br />

ob<strong>vi</strong>ously meant that we missed our onward connections to<br />

Finland, and we had to spend part of the night at the airport.<br />

The Champions League rounds had gone well, which<br />

boosted our status as players. When I got home after that<br />

gruelling journey I was surprised to find messages on my<br />

answerphone from professional teams in Norway and Scot-<br />

land. In the end I opted for Norway’s Oslo team, Våleren-<br />

ga. Mikael Forssell was snapped up by Chelsea. Following<br />

Helsinki’s suc<strong>ce</strong>ss in the Champions League, six HJK play-<br />

ers went on to play abroad.<br />

The arduous trip welded us together as a team. After-<br />

wards I played with many who had been in the Finnish na-<br />

tional team. Our biggest strengths were definitely our keen<br />

spirit and close friendship. I learnt then that, whatever the<br />

conditions, on the pitch you must focus only on the game.<br />

AKi RiiHiLAHTi<br />

aki riihilahti (b.1974) is a finnish midfielder who<br />

has carved an international career in football. he<br />

started with hJk (helsinki football club), and went<br />

on to play for Vålerenga, crystal Pala<strong>ce</strong>, kaisers-<br />

lautern and djurgården. the highlight of his career<br />

in england was when crystal Pala<strong>ce</strong> climbed to<br />

the Premier league for the 2004–2005 season.<br />

riihilahti has been a regular with the finnish<br />

national team and played in several world cup<br />

and european championship qualifiers. he has<br />

played a total of 69 caps, scoring 11 goals.


M o M E N T S<br />

aT THe end oF THe MIllennIuM, arMenIa MIGHT Have Been poor<br />

BuT THeY loved THeIr FooTBall. THe loCal sTadIuM Was<br />

In danGer oF CollapsInG.<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

39


Semi-<br />

hidden!<br />

The iittala Piilo storage box keeps your<br />

knickknacks safe even when they are<br />

too beautiful to be hidden away completely.<br />

Illustrated is the turquoise-blue<br />

glass / oak 60 mm box (EUR 22.50),<br />

though these boxes are available in<br />

a wide range of sizes and colours.<br />

Stockmann<br />

GATES 26 AND 33<br />

CAPi AnD CAPi ELECTROniCS<br />

Capi has everything to make your holiday<br />

memorable: memory cards, camera ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories<br />

and, of course, cameras. Capi outlets also<br />

stock all the leading mobile phone brands and<br />

their ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories, mp3 players, <strong>vi</strong>deo cameras,<br />

Suunto and Polar wrist-top computers and<br />

GPS de<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>s. A big, new shop opened at gates<br />

27–28 in February.<br />

GaTes 12, 27–28 and lonG-Haul<br />

FlIGHTs<br />

l Fashion, Ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories and<br />

Bags<br />

ARG AiRPORT FASHiOn<br />

The pla<strong>ce</strong> to go for international brands for<br />

men and women. ARG stocks such world<br />

renowned names as Boss, Day, Gant, Guess and<br />

Eton. A big new shop has opened in the longhaul<br />

flights area.<br />

GaTes 13–14 and lonG-Haul FlIGHTs<br />

LUHTA SHOP AiRPORT<br />

Luhta embra<strong>ce</strong>s the sporty everyday look<br />

known as “street sport”. The Finnish brand is<br />

owned by L-Fashion Group Oy, a leading Nordic<br />

clothing company in business sin<strong>ce</strong> 1907.<br />

The shop will be closed at the end of February.<br />

A big, new Luhta Store will be open during the<br />

spring at Gate 30 with more casual and outdoor<br />

products and brands, e.g. Rukka, I<strong>ce</strong>peak,<br />

Ril`s and Your Fa<strong>ce</strong>.<br />

GaTe 30<br />

LUxbAG<br />

Luxurious Loewe, Marc Jacobs and Celine bags,<br />

apparel and ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories for the discriminating<br />

taste.<br />

GaTe 34–35<br />

MARiMEKKO<br />

Looking for a Finnish classic? Get the Olkalaukku<br />

bag designed by Ristomatti Ratia in<br />

1971. Jackie Kennedy, fashion icon and wife of<br />

President John F. Kennedy, made Marimekko<br />

dresses famous in the 60s.<br />

GaTes 26–27<br />

Mauri Kunnas’s The<br />

Canine Kalevala (EUR<br />

22.40) is a canine adaptation<br />

of the Finnish<br />

national epic, and it<br />

is also a classic in Finnish<br />

children’s literature.<br />

Stockmann<br />

AIRPORT MAP<br />

GATE 26<br />

Gates 35–38<br />

VIA SPA<br />

Gates 30–34<br />

Fina<strong>vi</strong>a offers a wireless internet connection free of charge at Helsinki Airport.<br />

Airport Website:<br />

www.helsinkiairport.fi<br />

www.helsinki-vantaa.fi<br />

Security Control<br />

Passport Control<br />

Flights to/from Europe<br />

Flights to/from Asia,<br />

USA, UK and Russia<br />

Via Helsinki Website:<br />

www.<strong>vi</strong>ahelsinki.com<br />

T2<br />

Transfer Desk<br />

Smoking area<br />

Shopping area<br />

Restaurants, Bars & Cafés<br />

Airport Lounges<br />

Currency exchange /<br />

Tax Free Refund<br />

Children’s Playrooms<br />

TO<br />

HELSINKI<br />

CHECK-IN AREA<br />

Gates 24–29<br />

CHECK-IN AREA<br />

TO<br />

HELSINKI<br />

TO<br />

HELSINKI<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

Gates 11–23<br />

T1<br />

41<br />

VIP<br />

CENTRE<br />

CONGRESS<br />

CENTRE<br />

Airport Information 24 h<br />

tel. +358 200 14636 (0,57 €/min + lnc)


In the old days they believed there<br />

was a gnome li<strong>vi</strong>ng in every household…<br />

This <strong>ce</strong>ramic<br />

gnome (from EUR 12) is the<br />

work of Finn Päi<strong>vi</strong> Wilander.<br />

Santa’s Gift and Toy store<br />

LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />

M-bOxi<br />

Match your wallet, your handbag and your<br />

mood! Orange will give you energy while coral<br />

green will soothe you. At M-Boxi you can always<br />

find elegant Longchamp and Tumi products.<br />

GaTes 26–27 and 33<br />

MOOMin SHOP<br />

Moomin and his friends look good on anything<br />

and anyone: the extensive product range is not<br />

just for the kids. A new and bigger shop opened<br />

this February.<br />

GaTes 26–27<br />

MULbERRy<br />

Leather handbags, wallets and belts for men and<br />

women. We also stock the Bayswater, Mulberry’s<br />

all time favourite hand bag style!<br />

GaTe 33<br />

STOCKMAnn SHOP<br />

Stockmann is the best known department store<br />

in Finland, and the company’s Helsinki Airport<br />

Stockmann shop carries a full range of the<br />

world’s top fashion labels – Boss, Furla, Burberry<br />

and more!<br />

GaTe 33<br />

The Suunto M5 watch (EUR<br />

139) is a dream for active people.<br />

The watch recommends exercise<br />

programmes and tells you<br />

if your training is correct and<br />

how long you will take to recover.<br />

There are different designs<br />

for men and women.<br />

Capi and Capi Electronics<br />

GATES 12, 27–28 AND LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />

TiE RACK<br />

Tie Rack can pro<strong>vi</strong>de you with everything you<br />

might have left at home: socks, belts, boxer<br />

shorts. The selection also includes ties, bags,<br />

sweaters and scarves – for yourself or for loved<br />

ones.<br />

GaTe 27<br />

l Gifts & Toys<br />

SAnTA’S GiFT AnD TOy STORE<br />

Santa’s Gift and Toy store has opened in the<br />

long-haul flights area. Gifts and toys from<br />

Santa’s own shop.<br />

lonG-Haul FlIGHTs<br />

l Gourmet and Sweets<br />

AiRPORT SHOP<br />

Perfumes, confectionery, cosmetics, gifts and<br />

Finnish gourmet products. The shop at gates<br />

26–27 will close in March (week 10). A new shop<br />

will open after the summer in a new location.<br />

GaTes 20 and 26–27<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

43


A good book is above all entertaining,<br />

thinks Ines, and she picks<br />

up Cecilia Ahern’s novel The Book<br />

of Tomorrow (EUR 11.50), which<br />

tells of the young Tamara’s path<br />

from riches to rags and new insights<br />

on life.<br />

reader’s<br />

GATE 14 AND LoNG-HAUL<br />

FLIGHTS<br />

When Ines decides to buy something,<br />

she believes in first impressions. She<br />

knows she has found what she’s looking<br />

for when she sees this Mulberry<br />

tweed, leather bag (from EUR 800).<br />

The bag is unusual in that it has a shoulder<br />

strap embroidered on one side.<br />

Mulberry Shop<br />

GATE 33<br />

What’s in Your Bag,<br />

INES DE LIGHT?<br />

When Ines arrives at the airport, she<br />

feasts on Vietnamese spring rolls (EUR<br />

3.50 each, EUR 11 for 3), which are available<br />

in three flavours: tofu-mushroom,<br />

salmon-avocado and goose-omelette.<br />

My City Helsinki<br />

GATE 35<br />

Wine & View<br />

GATE 28<br />

Ines enjoys shopping, and her holiday culminates<br />

in buying gifts. Her first purchase<br />

is always perfume – you can never<br />

have too much. This time she chooses<br />

Yves Saint Laurent’s luxurious new<br />

fragran<strong>ce</strong>, Belle D’Opium (EdP EUR<br />

62.80 / 50 ml, EUR 80.40 / 90 ml).<br />

Helsinki Airport Duty Free<br />

GATES 13, 22-26 AND LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />

Ines takes a shine to<br />

the Chopard Happy<br />

Sport watch (EUR 16,010):<br />

Some of its 41 diamonds<br />

adorn the red-gold edge of<br />

the dial and some move under<br />

the glass. The watch-strap is<br />

made of leather.<br />

Aseman Kello<br />

GATES 26–27 AND LoNG-HAUL<br />

FLIGHTS<br />

The reading experien<strong>ce</strong><br />

is topped off by<br />

Kultasuklaa’s handmade<br />

Finnish chocolates<br />

(EUR 19.90 / 250 g).<br />

Stockmann<br />

GATE 26<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

45


Restaurants and<br />

Cafés<br />

bAR DELiGHT<br />

Beverages from beer to champagne, not<br />

forgetting the classics and a choi<strong>ce</strong> of special<br />

coffees. Tapas and snacks. Soft drinks and small<br />

savouries to take away. Sockets for charging<br />

laptops and phones.<br />

GaTe 14<br />

CAFé ALVAR A<br />

Alvar Aalto (1898–1976) was a Finnish functionalist<br />

architect and designer. His most famous<br />

building is the Finlandia Hall in Helsinki. Café<br />

Alvar A at Helsinki Airport is named after Aalto<br />

and represents the best of Finland, in philosophy,<br />

design and food. Much of the cafe’s food<br />

is produ<strong>ce</strong>d locally by small and independent<br />

Finnish farmers.<br />

GaTe 24<br />

CAFé PiCniC<br />

Newly renovated Picnic is known for its<br />

baguettes, baked potatoes and special coffees.<br />

Salads, soft drinks and pastries are also<br />

available.<br />

Open 24/7<br />

TerMInal 2<br />

CAFé TUULi<br />

Café Tuuli is temporarily located at gate 27 in<br />

one of the busiest areas at Helsinki Airport.<br />

When time is tight, get it to go from Tuuli. But<br />

if you have time to kill, sit down and enjoy the<br />

café’s range of sweet and savoury delicacies<br />

and selection of refreshing drinks.<br />

GaTe 27<br />

CESAR’S PizzA & FOOD COURT<br />

Helsinki Airport staff know this breakfast, lunch<br />

and dinner spot well, it’s just downstairs from<br />

Departures Hall 2. Buffet with a wide range to<br />

choose from. Pizza and filled baguettes also<br />

available.<br />

TerMInal 2<br />

GO!CAFé<br />

The history of GO!Café is a bit like the Eiffel<br />

Tower’s. Both were intended as temporary<br />

structures but plans changed. And as the<br />

popularity of the GO!Café has increased, so<br />

have its selection and ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>. There are now<br />

two of these cafes at Helsinki Airport.<br />

Terminal 2 Go!Café offers a superb selection of<br />

take away food and you can also recharge your<br />

laptop computer. Newsagent goods are also<br />

available, including newspapers and magazines,<br />

paperbacks, playing cards and hygiene products.<br />

There is an Inno<strong>ce</strong>nt Smoothie Bar at the<br />

café ser<strong>vi</strong>ng easy flight snacks such as smoothies,<br />

coffee and pastries. The eSer<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> Bar operates<br />

in the GoCafé premises at Terminal 2.<br />

The GO!Café in Terminal 1 serves an ex<strong>ce</strong>llent<br />

soup and salad lunch with beverage. New terra<strong>ce</strong><br />

open, Go!Café in terminal 1.<br />

GaTe 19 and TerMInal 1<br />

COFFEE SPOOn<br />

The clock on the Stockmann building in <strong>ce</strong>ntral<br />

Helsinki is one of the city’s most popular meeting<br />

spots. At Helsinki Airport, Spoon plays<br />

a similar role. Sweet and savoury pastries,<br />

sandwiches and baguettes, fresh salads, special<br />

coffees, smoothies and i<strong>ce</strong>-cream – also to take<br />

away. P.S. The soup special for the day costs<br />

Gucci Guilty (EdT EUR 58.40 / 50 ml) is an<br />

opulent fragran<strong>ce</strong> for audacious women – for<br />

those who like to party and have no fear.<br />

Helsinki Airport Duty Free<br />

GATES 13, 22–26 AND LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />

only €4.70 and the salad special €5.70. New<br />

terra<strong>ce</strong> open.<br />

Open 24/7<br />

CHeCK-In area oF TerMInal 2<br />

MObiLE COFFEE UniT<br />

Fancy a coffee but no time to sit down? Grab<br />

a cup to go from one of the two mobile coffee<br />

units operating in both terminals during rush<br />

hours. Chewing gum, sweets and pastry of the<br />

day are also available.<br />

GaTe area, TerMInals 1 and 2<br />

My CiTy HELSinKi<br />

Feeling peckish and a little thirsty? Relief is at<br />

hand in this comprehensive, 400 seat restaurant.<br />

It has its own bar offering a wide range of cocktails.<br />

The soundscape for the bar was designed<br />

by DJ Slow.<br />

GaTe 35<br />

nEW CAFé<br />

A brand new café has opened at gate 28 next to<br />

the Wine & View wine bar. Sit down and enjoy<br />

the café’s range of sweet and savoury pastries<br />

and selection of refreshing <strong>vi</strong>tamin waters.<br />

GaTe 28<br />

PiCniC TAKE AWAy<br />

Lea<strong>vi</strong>ng the airport on an empty stomach? The<br />

Picnic Take Away will make sure you leave satisfied!<br />

Sandwiches, salads, foodstuff and fresh<br />

bread to go.<br />

TerMInal 2/arrIvals 2a<br />

FLy inn RESTAURAnT & DELi<br />

A new restaurant with a panoramic <strong>vi</strong>ew and an<br />

interior of natural materials. Enjoy a refreshing<br />

breakfast at the Deli or try the famous reindeer<br />

burger from the restaurant’s á la carte menu.<br />

GaTe 27<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

47


FinnAiR LOUnGE*<br />

The new lounge in the long-haul flight area<br />

has spa<strong>ce</strong> for 250 passengers to work or relax.<br />

There’s a buffet for the peckish and a wine<br />

bar with a high quality selection. You can also<br />

freshen up in a private shower room.<br />

GaTes 36–37<br />

* Lounges are open to business class passengers,<br />

Priority Pass or Airport Angel card<br />

holders as well as entitlement card holders flying<br />

with the following airlines: Aeroflot Russian<br />

Airlines, Air China, Air Fran<strong>ce</strong>, British Airways,<br />

Bulgaria Air, Czech Airlines CSA, Finnair,<br />

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Malev and Ukraine<br />

International Airlines. LOT Polish Airlines and<br />

Turkish Airlines business class will be given an<br />

in<strong>vi</strong>tation at check-in which will also entitle<br />

them to lounge ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>.<br />

l Spa<br />

FinnAiR SPA & SAUnAS<br />

An oasis in the middle of an airport, with<br />

almost 600 square metres to relax in. Plunge<br />

into the spa’s mineral water pool or let the<br />

rocks in the clear water of the wading pool<br />

massage your feet. Refresh yourself in one<br />

of four different saunas and pamper yourself<br />

with one of the treatments specially designed<br />

for air passengers. Ask for a combined Finnair<br />

Lounge and Spa ticket!<br />

GaTes 36–37<br />

l VIP Ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>s<br />

ViP CEnTRE/HELSinKi AiRPORT COn-<br />

GRESS<br />

More than a dozen meeting rooms for business<br />

travellers – and for more romantic occasions.<br />

Every few months, a happy couple exchanges<br />

marriage vows in the airport’s VIP facilities. Let<br />

the honeymoon begin!<br />

Contacts: Tel. +358 020 708 3117,<br />

http://www.helsinki-vantaa.fi/<strong>vi</strong>p<br />

TerMInal 2<br />

l ATMs<br />

You can get cash from the ten ATM machines<br />

in the terminal.<br />

l Car Hire<br />

Renting a car at the airport is a convenient<br />

way to travel: put your cases in the car and<br />

drive away! Advan<strong>ce</strong> booking over the Internet<br />

makes travelling even faster. Rental car parking<br />

is available in car park P3. The ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> desks<br />

for car rentals are in the corridor between<br />

terminals 1 and 2.<br />

AViS<br />

tel. +358 9 822 833<br />

bUDGET<br />

tel. +358 207 466 610<br />

EUROPCAR<br />

tel. +358 40 306 2800<br />

HERTz<br />

tel. +358 20 555 2100<br />

SixT<br />

tel. +358 200 111 222<br />

l Conferen<strong>ce</strong> Ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>s<br />

Are you planning an international event in a<br />

quality en<strong>vi</strong>ronment? The facilities at Helsinki<br />

Airport can be adapted to meet the needs of<br />

large conferen<strong>ce</strong>s and small meetings alike.<br />

HELSinKi AiRPORT COnGRESS has nine<br />

flexible meeting rooms, the largest accommodating<br />

up to 140 people. The meeting rooms<br />

pro<strong>vi</strong>de modern audio<strong>vi</strong>sual equipment and<br />

BrAND PICK: oMEGA<br />

First Watch on the Moon<br />

The final letter of the Greek alphabet, omega Ω, symbolises the end point in<br />

western culture. We say “from alpha to omega”. But in the world of watches,<br />

it is more like the start of things. The swiss company omega has been leading<br />

development sin<strong>ce</strong> 1848 and was approved by nasa for its first manned flight to<br />

the Moon and for five others subsequently.<br />

aboard apollo 11 when it set off for the Moon on 16 July 1969 were flight<br />

commander Neil Armstrong, Michael Collins pilot of the Columbia flight module,<br />

and Edwin ‘Buzz’ Aldrin who piloted the eagle lunar module – and on his wrist<br />

was The omega speedmaster Chronograph. The whereabouts of this watch is<br />

unknown because it was stolen from its owner.<br />

omega has had plenty of highlights. The world’s <strong>ce</strong>lebrities have relied upon<br />

it, including john F. Kennedy, Prin<strong>ce</strong> William, George Clooney and Nicole Kidman,<br />

and at the vancouver Winter olympics last year it was the official timekeeper.<br />

The firm’s reputation as a pro<strong>vi</strong>der of timepie<strong>ce</strong>s that stand up to adventure<br />

has grown ever stronger sin<strong>ce</strong> the conquest of the Moon. The first choi<strong>ce</strong> of<br />

watch for divers was omega, and the omega seamaster has accompanied 007’s<br />

assignments sin<strong>ce</strong> 1995, when Pier<strong>ce</strong> brosnan became James Bond.<br />

omega’s renown as a pioneer is, of course, only figurative, but no other<br />

watchmaker has held as many records for accuracy. The company has come a<br />

long way sin<strong>ce</strong> the 23-year-old Louis brandt began to assemble pocket watches<br />

in la-Chaux-de-Fonds from parts produ<strong>ce</strong>d by local craftsmen.<br />

referen<strong>ce</strong>s: www.omegawatches.com,<br />

www.wikipedia.org<br />

Omega Seamaster<br />

Professional ,<br />

(EUR 2,610) is<br />

waterproof to<br />

a depth of 300<br />

metres.<br />

ASEMAN KELLo<br />

GATES 26–27 AND<br />

LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />

communications. A professional conferen<strong>ce</strong> assistant<br />

will help you with all the practicalities.<br />

tel. +358 207 629 732<br />

sales@sspfinland.fi<br />

TerMInal 2<br />

Three smaller rooms for meetings with 2–8<br />

participants.<br />

tel. +358 9 8277 3117<br />

<strong>vi</strong>p.helsinki-vantaa@fina<strong>vi</strong>a.fI<br />

TerMInal 2<br />

HiLTOn HELSinKi-VAnTAA AiRPORT<br />

tel. +358 9 73 220<br />

helsinkivantaa.airport@hilton.com<br />

nexT To TerMInal 2<br />

ViP PRESiDEnT TERMinAL is ideal for large<br />

groups and state <strong>vi</strong>sits. Weddings and other<br />

private events can also be organised here. The<br />

facilities readily accommodate 10–100 guests.<br />

Visitors have ac<strong>ce</strong>ss to two conferen<strong>ce</strong> rooms<br />

and a lounge as well as a festive lobby plus a<br />

separate press room.<br />

tel. +358 9 8277 3117<br />

<strong>vi</strong>p.helsinki-vantaa@fina<strong>vi</strong>a.fI<br />

LiiKELEnTOTiE 10<br />

V I A HELSINKI<br />

49


BOSS<br />

ORANGE<br />

BOSS ORANGE<br />

For Him<br />

EAU DE TOILETTE<br />

60 ml<br />

43,20 €<br />

BUY 3<br />

PAY 2<br />

PANDA<br />

LICORICE BIG BAGS:<br />

Licori<strong>ce</strong> Mix Original 450 g,<br />

Licori<strong>ce</strong> Mix Choco 350 g,<br />

Duello 375 g, Soft&Fresh<br />

Licori<strong>ce</strong> 500 g and Soft&Fresh<br />

Licori<strong>ce</strong> Filled 450 g<br />

International passengers can make purchases in the gate area after<br />

security control. When travelling to a destination outside the EU, to Canary<br />

Islands or to Åland Islands you can buy alcoholic beverages and cigarettes<br />

duty-free.<br />

Domestic passengers can also make purchases at the shops located in the<br />

gate area ex<strong>ce</strong>pt for the tax free and duty free shops that sell alcohol or<br />

tobacco. For domestic passengers there are special shops that sell<br />

cosmetic and sweets at gates 26 and 20.<br />

Pri<strong>ce</strong>s valid until 31.4.2011.<br />

Enjoy your shopping!<br />

ESCADA<br />

TAJ SUNSET<br />

ESCADA TAJ SUNSET<br />

For Her<br />

EAU DE TOILETTE<br />

50 ml<br />

42,30 €<br />

BUY 3<br />

PAY 2<br />

FAZER<br />

CHOCOLATES:<br />

250 G:<br />

Milk chocolate,<br />

Dark chocolate,<br />

Hazelnut, Liquori<strong>ce</strong> dragées,<br />

Creamy toffee pie<strong>ce</strong>s,<br />

Roasted Salted Cashew Nuts<br />

EVERYONE IS WELCOME TO SHOP<br />

Arri<strong>vi</strong>ng passengers can make purchases at the shops located in the gate<br />

area ex<strong>ce</strong>pt for the tax free and duty free shops that sell alcohol or<br />

tobacco. The shops located in the baggage claim areas at the International<br />

Terminal can also be used by arri<strong>vi</strong>ng passengers.<br />

All passengers and people meeting and seeing them off can use the shops<br />

and ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> desks located in the areas before security control.


Already 11 routes<br />

from and to Helsinki!<br />

Oslo<br />

from<br />

38€<br />

one way<br />

All pri<strong>ce</strong>s include taxes.<br />

Oulu<br />

36€<br />

from one way<br />

Rovaniemi<br />

36€<br />

from one way<br />

Stockholm<br />

37€<br />

from one way<br />

Copenhagen<br />

37€<br />

from one way<br />

London<br />

37€<br />

from one way<br />

Ni<strong>ce</strong><br />

70€<br />

from one way<br />

Split<br />

70€<br />

from one way<br />

Rome<br />

from<br />

70€<br />

one way<br />

Bar<strong>ce</strong>lona<br />

70€<br />

from one way<br />

Alicante<br />

70€<br />

from one way<br />

Malaga<br />

from<br />

70€<br />

one way<br />

Hania<br />

70€<br />

from one way

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