You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
can finland<br />
SAVE THE<br />
WORLD?<br />
THE AbbEy<br />
that crowned<br />
a turbulent<br />
king<br />
woes of the<br />
FOOTbALL<br />
HEROES<br />
Body&Soul<br />
– We’re Hungry!
AmericanAirlines and AA.com are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Allian<strong>ce</strong>, LLC. © 2011 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.<br />
Starting May 2,<br />
American Airlines will<br />
offer a new daily nonstop<br />
fl ight from Helsinki to<br />
Chicago where you can<br />
easily connect to more than<br />
100 destinations across<br />
the Americas including<br />
Boston, Los Angeles, Miami,<br />
San Francisco and Seattle.<br />
For more information,<br />
<strong>vi</strong>sit AA.com/fi nland.<br />
C<br />
M<br />
Y<br />
CM<br />
MY<br />
CY<br />
CMY<br />
K
contents<br />
4 ..<br />
13<br />
14<br />
24<br />
28<br />
32<br />
40 ...<br />
52<br />
<strong>vi</strong>
and those who do not travel read only a page.”<br />
– St. AuguStine<br />
There may be as many as 30,000<br />
aeroplanes in flight over Europe at one time.<br />
There are about 3.5 million articles in the<br />
English-language version of Wikipedia, the<br />
Internet-based encyclopaedia. Globally,<br />
the encyclopaedia boasts 365 million readers.<br />
In<br />
Figures<br />
The world’s<br />
highest<br />
restaurant<br />
has been<br />
opened in<br />
Burj Khalifa,<br />
in the tallest<br />
building on<br />
earth, in<br />
Dubai. It is on<br />
the 122nd floor<br />
at an elevation<br />
of 442<br />
metres.<br />
Business on the Wing<br />
More than 25<br />
per <strong>ce</strong>nt of those<br />
li<strong>vi</strong>ng above the<br />
60th degree<br />
of latitude<br />
reside in Finland.<br />
A passenger<br />
train tested as<br />
it travelled<br />
between Beijing<br />
and Shanghai<br />
achieved a<br />
speed of<br />
486<br />
indigo, a budget airline company in india, has lashed out on a real highflying<br />
spree. the company made the biggest purchase of ci<strong>vi</strong>l aircraft of<br />
all time when it bought 180 a320s from european aeroplane manufacturer<br />
airbus.<br />
istockphoto<br />
MY MOMENT in Finland<br />
“I saw so many Moomin<br />
items in souvenir shops.<br />
I enjoy shopping and the<br />
Moomins are very cute. In<br />
Japan, not so many people<br />
know about Moomins, but<br />
I’m very fond of them.”<br />
Eri Kawakami<br />
student, Japan<br />
“I was surprised at the variety<br />
of food I could find in Finland.<br />
Before my <strong>vi</strong>sit I was wondering<br />
what the food would<br />
be like, but we could find<br />
food from all the continents,<br />
including Indian and Thai.”<br />
Dhulipala Prabhu<br />
engineer, india<br />
“I <strong>vi</strong>sited Jyväskylä in Central<br />
Finland and enjoyed just<br />
looking at the snowy s<strong>ce</strong>nery.<br />
You can’t find any snow in my<br />
hometown. It was really exciting<br />
just to see the snowflakes<br />
fall. It was the first time I have<br />
ever seen snow in my life.”<br />
Kazuko Matsuji<br />
teacher, Japan<br />
Fair Play<br />
TrANSPArENCy INTErNATIoNAL, an<br />
international organisation opposed to bribery, lists<br />
nations according to their level of corruption.<br />
The world’s least<br />
corrupted countries are:<br />
1. Denmark<br />
2. New Zealand<br />
3. Singapore<br />
4. Finland<br />
5. Sweden<br />
The most badly corrupted<br />
nations are:<br />
174. Uzbekistan<br />
175. Irak<br />
176. Afganistan<br />
177. Myanmar (Burma)<br />
178. Somalia<br />
sour<strong>ce</strong>:<br />
transParency<br />
international<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
5
the more luck I seem to have.”<br />
– PoliticiAn thomAS JefferSon<br />
P Stands for Distan<strong>ce</strong><br />
oVEr THE CENTUrIES, the Sámi natives of Lapland have<br />
learnt to live under Arctic conditions. In the old days – before<br />
snowmobiles became common – reindeer were important draught<br />
animals during the winter. As they plodded through the roadless<br />
wilderness on reindeer-driven pulka sleds the Sámi noted the<br />
distan<strong>ce</strong> they travelled using a natural recorder and a measure still<br />
generally referred to in Lapland as the poronkusema. It means the<br />
distan<strong>ce</strong> in reindeer urine – which can be up to 7.5 kilometres. The<br />
number of kilometres completed is noted by each stop, because a<br />
reindeer is unable to urinate while running, so it always stops to<br />
relieve itself. A reindeer can be driven up to seven poronkusema<br />
lengths in a day– in others words, more than 50 kilometres (about<br />
31 miles).<br />
Food’s also a problem<br />
FooD is a problem for one-third of the globe’s six billion<br />
people. The World Health Organisation (WHO) says more<br />
than a billion are already overweight. The United States has<br />
largest number, who make up one-third of the population. In<br />
Europe, the questionable top ranking is held by Great Britain,<br />
where one in four adults is overweight. At the same time, one<br />
billion of the world’s people go hungry every day, and the<br />
proportion of those undernourished is increasing.<br />
Photos: istockphoto<br />
TO THE POINT<br />
Chicago,<br />
Familiar but unknown<br />
BArAK oBAMA, Michael Jordan, Al Capone, the Chicago Bulls,<br />
the Chicago Blackhawks… Chicago is a city of world-famous<br />
sports associations and <strong>ce</strong>lebrities.<br />
It has also become famous through many films and tele<strong>vi</strong>sion<br />
series: The Untouchables, The Fugitive, The Negotiator, ER…<br />
This city of 2.9 million inhabitants lies at the southern end of<br />
Lake Michigan. You noti<strong>ce</strong> its location particularly in the winter,<br />
when the piercing wind blowing off the Great Lakes drives people<br />
indoors, perhaps into one of the monumental skyscrapers in the<br />
city <strong>ce</strong>ntre. Of these the most famous is still known as the Sears<br />
Tower, though now it is officially called Willis Tower.<br />
Sears Tower was built in 1993 and at the time was the highest<br />
building in the world, even higher than New York’s Twin Towers.<br />
It kept the title until 1998, when they built one even higher in<br />
Malaysia. From the 103rd floor of the 442 metre- (1,450 feet-) tall<br />
Willis Tower you can observe the seemingly endless labyrinth of<br />
buildings and roads that spans a metropolitan area of 8.3 million<br />
residents and plan an itinerary that takes in everything worth<br />
seeing in the city.<br />
www.chicagotraveler.com<br />
American Airlines from<br />
Helsinki Airport to Chicago<br />
from May 2011 american airlines<br />
will fly daily from helsinki airport<br />
to chicago during the entire summer.<br />
the boeing 767 that flies the<br />
route will take off at 14:00 and arrive<br />
in the usa at 15:20 local time.<br />
the flight leaves chicago at 15:40,<br />
getting to helsinki at 08:30. the<br />
time differen<strong>ce</strong> between helsinki<br />
and chicago is eight hours.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
7
which served afterwards to solve other problems.”<br />
– PhiloSoPher rené DeScArteS<br />
on the fortress was equipped to repel the West. A<br />
Finnish garrison was installed there on Finland’s<br />
independen<strong>ce</strong> in 1917. Even during World War II<br />
it played an important part in the air defen<strong>ce</strong> of<br />
Helsinki against Russian bombers.<br />
The entire area inside the more than six kilo-<br />
metres of fortress wall, containing almost 200<br />
buildings, is now a popular tourist destination.<br />
You can reach it easily by ferry from the <strong>ce</strong>ntre<br />
of Helsinki.<br />
www.suomenlinna.fi/en<br />
the unesco (united nations educational,<br />
scientific and cultural organisation)<br />
world heritage list is a system<br />
aimed at protecting significant and endangered<br />
cultural and natural heritage.<br />
currently, the world heritage list in-<br />
cludes 890 cultural and natural sites<br />
in 141 countries. finland lists seven<br />
sites: the fortress of suomenlinna, old<br />
rauma, Petäjävesi old church, Verla<br />
groundwood and board Mill, the bronze<br />
age burial site of sammallahdenmäki,<br />
struve geodetic arc and kvarken archipelago.<br />
http://whc.unesco.org/en/about/<br />
Culture in Turku<br />
CIrCUS PErForMANCES, underwater<br />
con<strong>ce</strong>rts, aerial acrobatics, Finnish sauna culture,<br />
exhibitions, modern opera, theatre… Finland’s<br />
City of Turku – European Capital of Culture in<br />
2011 – presents the whole spectrum of cultural<br />
expression this year.<br />
http://www.turku2011.fi/en<br />
ssshh! We Can<br />
Keep planes Quiet<br />
aircraft make two kinds of unavoidable noise<br />
– engine noise and aerodynamic noise.<br />
how loud engine noise is depends<br />
on the size of the engine, its type and<br />
its power output.<br />
aerodynamic noise, on the other<br />
hand, depends on the aircraft type,<br />
its disposition at any stage of the<br />
flight, and the speed of the aircraft.<br />
technological developments in<br />
aircraft and engines have redu<strong>ce</strong>d<br />
noise levels dramatically.<br />
the oldest engines in use pro-<br />
du<strong>ce</strong> narrow jets of air at high<br />
speeds, while the newest engines<br />
give a greater volume of air at lower<br />
speeds, which makes them quieter.<br />
Propeller-driven aircraft on short<br />
routes are generally quieter than jet<br />
aircraft.<br />
cda (continuous des<strong>ce</strong>nt approach)<br />
redu<strong>ce</strong>s noise.<br />
air traffic control can allow the pilot<br />
to redu<strong>ce</strong> speed steadily without<br />
the need for a horizontal flight stage.<br />
noise decreases when you are<br />
more than 10 kilometres from the<br />
runway.<br />
cda at helsinki airport has been<br />
in practi<strong>ce</strong> for almost 10 years.<br />
envIronMenTal FACT<br />
noise studies at finnish airports<br />
have looked at the spread of noise to<br />
air routes, in accordan<strong>ce</strong> with an eu directive.<br />
l describes noise levels over a<br />
den<br />
24-hour period, where the weighting<br />
for noise in the evening (19:00–22:00)<br />
is 5 decibels and at night (22:00–07:00)<br />
10 decibels. in practi<strong>ce</strong> one aircraft flying<br />
at night is equivalent in terms of<br />
noise to 10 aircraft flying during the day.<br />
noise can be controlled with optimal<br />
planning of air routes, runway practi<strong>ce</strong>s<br />
and des<strong>ce</strong>nt and take-off pro<strong>ce</strong>dures.<br />
helsinki airport uses the preferential<br />
runway assignment system.<br />
Measures are in pla<strong>ce</strong> to try and ensure<br />
that as few people as possible live<br />
in an area affected by noise.<br />
in 1990 some 100,000 people lived<br />
within helsinki airport’s noise impact<br />
area. in 2009 the figure was around<br />
10,000.<br />
helsinki airport is a pioneer in the<br />
‘green’ des<strong>ce</strong>nt approach – now 60 %<br />
of des<strong>ce</strong>nts apply the continuous des<strong>ce</strong>nt<br />
approach pro<strong>ce</strong>dure, as it is officially<br />
known.<br />
.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
9
Bergen 1:55<br />
Amsterdam 2:35<br />
Brussels 2:40<br />
Düsseldorf 2:25<br />
Geneva 3:00<br />
Zurich 2:55<br />
Ni<strong>ce</strong> 3:35<br />
Milan 3:15<br />
Frankfurt 2:40<br />
Pisa 2:55<br />
Billund 2:20<br />
Stuttgart 2:50<br />
Hamburg 1:55<br />
Munich 2:35<br />
Rome 3:35<br />
Oslo 1:30<br />
Veni<strong>ce</strong> 3:10<br />
Gothenburg 1:25<br />
Copenhagen 1:35<br />
Malta 4:05<br />
Ljubljana 2:35<br />
Berlin 2:00<br />
Prague 2:20<br />
Vienna 2:30<br />
Split 3:00<br />
Dubrovnik 3:30<br />
Stockholm 0:55<br />
Norrköping 1:20<br />
Visby 1:30<br />
Budapest 2:25<br />
Gdansk 1:55<br />
Krakow 1:45<br />
Warsaw 1:45<br />
HELSINKI<br />
St. Petersburg<br />
0:55<br />
Riga 0:55<br />
Vilnus 1:15<br />
Tallinn 0:35<br />
Athens 3:40<br />
Muurmansk 3:00<br />
Chania 3:50<br />
Bucharest 2:30<br />
Heraklion 3:55<br />
Moscow 1:50<br />
Minsk 1:25<br />
Samos 3:50<br />
WORLD POLiTiCS Murmansk, Russia<br />
With more than 300,000 inhabitants, Murmansk<br />
is the largest city north of the Arctic Circle, but<br />
is drawn much larger than its actual size on the<br />
world’s political map. Its global importan<strong>ce</strong> comes<br />
from its militarily significant location and its permanently<br />
i<strong>ce</strong>-free port on the shores of the Polar<br />
Sea. Honoured for its distinction during World<br />
War II, Murmansk was<br />
named a “Hero City”<br />
by the So<strong>vi</strong>et Union.<br />
The area still has<br />
important naval bases<br />
for russia’s nuclearpowered<br />
ships and<br />
submarines.<br />
Kiev 1:45<br />
Rhodes 4:00<br />
Istanbul 3:15<br />
Petrozavodsk XXX<br />
CHAnGE Gdansk, Poland<br />
Gdansk, Poland, hit the world’s headlines during the Cold<br />
War when the trade union movement born in the shipyards<br />
spurred the release of Eastern Europe from the yoke of<br />
the USSr. The history of Gdansk, however, reaches much<br />
farther back, for the Baltic city has been a significant <strong>ce</strong>ntre<br />
of commer<strong>ce</strong> for <strong>ce</strong>nturies.<br />
Poland is deeply Catholic and<br />
the best-known sightseeing attraction<br />
in Gdansk is St Mary’s<br />
Church, the largest brick church<br />
in the world. It can accommodate<br />
25,000 worshippers.<br />
Kos 3:50<br />
CULTURE Minsk, Belarus<br />
Paphos 4:15<br />
Larnaca 4:00<br />
Tokyo 9:25<br />
Nagoya 9:35<br />
Belarus – which means “White russia” – circulates<br />
its own rubles. The main building of the<br />
republic’s National Museum of Art is pictured<br />
on its one-thousand ruble note. In addition to<br />
White russian art, the museum also displays<br />
Slutsk belts, which have risen to the status of<br />
national mementoes. These belts have been<br />
important men’s wear in the culture of White<br />
russia, symbolising the wearer’s prosperity<br />
and power. Men exclusively<br />
wore these<br />
silk belts, and only<br />
men were allowed<br />
to assist in putting<br />
them on.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
11<br />
Osaka 9:45<br />
Seoul 8:35<br />
Hong Kong 9:50<br />
Beijing 7:40<br />
Shanghai 8:55<br />
Bangkok 9:45<br />
Delhi 6:40<br />
Ekatarinburg<br />
2:45<br />
Dubai 5:55
ex<strong>ce</strong>pt when milk comes out of my nose.”<br />
– AmericAn Director WooDy Allen<br />
Helsinki Airport has often been voted one of the best<br />
COLUMN by Kaarina Hazard<br />
Helsinki Airport, Sublime Nothingness<br />
airports in Europe, by international magazines and<br />
travellers alike. The ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> is good, the guide signs are<br />
ex<strong>ce</strong>llent, the facilities are great, and everything is clean<br />
and efficient.<br />
International recognition. For Finns it’s a portal<br />
from the Arctic gloom into the bright and cheery inner<br />
world of Scandina<strong>vi</strong>an design. People want to come<br />
here. They want to transit here. It’s always ni<strong>ce</strong> arri<strong>vi</strong>ng<br />
here. Folk enjoy just passing through. It’s wonderful.<br />
It is wonderful. Who cares if you’ve just driven<br />
through brown mud up to the door handle on the<br />
Helsinki ring road, if your hair is unwashed and you’ve<br />
no coins for the parking meter? Step inside and enjoy<br />
the warm, serene atmosphere,<br />
guaranteed to calm the most<br />
irritable mother picking up her<br />
sons from the arrivals hall after<br />
their jolly week in Ibiza. Penniless<br />
lovers board local buses to the<br />
airport to share a lukewarm coffee in a paper cup and<br />
dream about the plane that might take them away.<br />
People even come to Helsinki Airport to dream about<br />
staying there.<br />
Because… Helsinki Airport works. The escalator,<br />
the tap in the washroom, the conveyor belt, the security<br />
check – all demonstrate the same, reliable uniform<br />
quality. Spacious, bright, dependable – like banks<br />
used to be. Only the Arctic wind whistles outside – it’s<br />
so very pure, so very imper<strong>ce</strong>ptible, like an image in<br />
a women’s magazine become flesh. As if you were<br />
nowhere. And it’s odd but that is what the passengers<br />
love. Being nowhere.<br />
At the airport everyone has just come from wherever<br />
they have been, and it has never been as good as they<br />
imagined. The world isn’t one harmonious whole,<br />
it is a load of narrow-minded local communities all<br />
shrieking at one another. And by the time you reach<br />
the airport you’ve only just recovered from it all. All<br />
those embarrassments and hardships, endless queuing,<br />
sticky loo floors and broken mirror edges; sweaty old<br />
grannies and slobbering children who just get too<br />
Helsinki Airport<br />
is like the fantasy<br />
world of the<br />
commercials.<br />
close; bundles with unrecognisable gadgets spilling out,<br />
smells of daringly exotic snacks. You can’t escape it, no<br />
matter how tightly you clamp on your protective iPod<br />
earphones. And then it’s Helsinki Airport. The most<br />
international of international airports, they say. You feel<br />
like saying: “guaranteed nothingness.”<br />
There is nothing to ruffle you here, nothing to<br />
distract. It’s all as soft and soothing as that cloud you<br />
saw out of the window earlier on. No one is hassling<br />
you, no one asking for anything, no one pushing. No<br />
men in shabby jackets, no jui<strong>ce</strong>s on sale squeezed from<br />
weird fruits the labels say nothing about. Nobody’s<br />
trying sell you disgusting local pies and pastries. We<br />
can all wallow in our own infallibility, with no one<br />
constantly trying to bother us.<br />
Helsinki Airport – as if you were<br />
nowhere.<br />
Helsinki Airport is piped<br />
music incarnate, like a window<br />
display they vacuum clean in<br />
secret at night. It is a kitchen exhibition where water<br />
never runs and washing-up liquid forms no rings.<br />
Helsinki Airport is a project, with a schedule that holds<br />
and a budget no one argues about. It is bread and<br />
butter and a glass of warm milk – you can’t possibly<br />
hate it. Helsinki Airport doesn’t feel like anything,<br />
which is precisely why it is so wonderful.<br />
Helsinki Airport is like the fantasy world of the<br />
commercials. Dad, sober and straight, the family’s well<br />
cared for dog (paws clean of course!), jumping onto<br />
the back seat of the car while mum nimbly folds the<br />
walking gear into that designer rucksack. And the kids<br />
are still playing ball on the newly cut lawn. Helsinki<br />
Airport is controlled sunshine and refreshing summer<br />
rain. Grandma Duck’s blueberry pie cooling on the<br />
window sill, a freshly polished man’s shoe, a child’s<br />
spotlessly clean pullover, a friendly hug, a mobile phone<br />
with the battery always topped up. Helsinki Airport is<br />
a quarrel-free Christmas with the family, like a child<br />
snoozing through the night; like two lovers achie<strong>vi</strong>ng<br />
ecstasy at the same time.<br />
Kaarina Hazard is a Helsinki<br />
freelan<strong>ce</strong> writer.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
13
14 V I A HELSINKI<br />
FOOD<br />
iS A CUSTOM.
TEXT NINA PINjoLA SIDEBARS TErHI KIVIKoSKI-HANNULA PICTURES jArI HÄrKÖNEN<br />
iS HiSTORy.<br />
wilight on Christmas Eve in Finland. The snow<br />
takes a bluish tinge, it is freezing and nearly dark,<br />
though light shines out from the windows of many<br />
homes. All over Finland the same ritual is taking<br />
pla<strong>ce</strong> as families gather around tables groaning under the weight<br />
of food.<br />
There is plenty on the table. Christmas ham, roast turkey,<br />
carrot, swede and potato casserole, Christmas salad, different<br />
types of fish, maybe roe, salads and perhaps blinis (Russian<br />
pancakes) too. There may be home-brewed beer, Christmas<br />
beer or red wine. For dessert, perhaps fruit salad or plum fool,<br />
cake or chocolates. Spi<strong>ce</strong>d Christmas beverages such as mulled<br />
wine are imbibed before or after the meal.<br />
At Christmas in Finland, we indulge ourselves without in-<br />
hibition for three days. We no longer fuss about whether to<br />
scoff the starter first and then the main meal, or take a bit of<br />
everything at on<strong>ce</strong>. At other times of the year, Finns are quite<br />
sensible about eating. There’s usually a starter before the main<br />
meal, typically soup or salad, and after the main meal, some<br />
kind of dessert with coffee, such as a pie<strong>ce</strong> of cake or i<strong>ce</strong> cream.<br />
And that’s it.<br />
To Italians, our eating habits might seem odd. To them, food<br />
and its preparation are an art. Usually an antipasto is brought<br />
out first; a starter and various pie<strong>ce</strong>s or sticks of toasted bread<br />
(crostini). These are followed by the main course, il primo,<br />
then a second main course, il secondo. Finally, comes dessert,<br />
dol<strong>ce</strong>. It’s a time for leisurely delectation.<br />
Though gastronomy plays a less important role in Finland<br />
than it does in Italy, Finnish food can hardly be accused of<br />
being bad, though Italian prime minister Sil<strong>vi</strong>o Berlusconi<br />
claimed so when he <strong>vi</strong>sited Finland. Could this be about his-<br />
torically different food cultures or do some countries really<br />
have better food than others?<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
15
IMaGIne THIs: JoeY CHesTnuT WolFs doWn<br />
54 HoT doGs In Ten MInuTes.<br />
Patriotic Pizza and Chips<br />
Finns call chips “French potatoes” (also known as pommes<br />
frites, French fries) but fried spuds didn’t originate<br />
in Fran<strong>ce</strong>. Belgian journalist Jo Gérard asserts that chips<br />
were first made around 1680 in Belgium. The poor inhabitants<br />
of the Meuse Valley ate fried fish with their<br />
meals, but when the river froze in winter they repla<strong>ce</strong>d<br />
the fish with potatoes cut lengthwise into strips and<br />
fried them in oil.<br />
Like chips, hamburgers are often assumed to be<br />
American food, but unlike those French potatoes, we<br />
can trust the name. The hamburger really did originate<br />
in Hamburg, Germany.<br />
The pizza too has a long history. The tomato arrived<br />
in Europe from Peru and Chile with Columbus’s second<br />
voyage of exploration at the end of the 15th <strong>ce</strong>ntury and<br />
was originally thought to be poisonous. By the 18th <strong>ce</strong>ntury,<br />
the people of Naples in Italy were already filling<br />
their flat bread with tomatoes, and pizzas took off. It is<br />
said the pizza became such an attraction that tourists to<br />
Naples swarmed to the poor districts to taste it.<br />
Perhaps the best known of modern-day pizzas is the<br />
classic Margherita. It too has a story. It was concocted in<br />
1889 by the baker Raffaele Esposito, who created a patriotic<br />
pie in the form of the Italian flag, in green (basil),<br />
white (mozzarella) and red (tomato), to honour the <strong>vi</strong>sit<br />
of King Umberto i and his Queen, Margherita of Savoy.<br />
So the next time we chomp on a Margherita pizza, let us<br />
remember the queen.<br />
16 V I A HELSINKI<br />
istockphoto<br />
The first<br />
Jamie Olivers<br />
Our cave-dwelling forefathers probably had their own par-<br />
ticular way of preparing food, though you could hardly de-<br />
scribe it as cooking in today’s sense. Yet such ancient ci<strong>vi</strong>li-<br />
sations as Egypt and Assyria, respected cooking. The wealthy<br />
took pride in their extravagant banquets, which were a far<br />
cry from the morsels of the masses.<br />
Gastronomic literature only came into existen<strong>ce</strong> later,<br />
though, in Gree<strong>ce</strong>. The word gastronomy derives from the<br />
Greek words gaster (stomach) and nomos (law), and means<br />
familiarity with and expertise in the preparation of food,<br />
as well as the ability to enjoy it. The word gastronome came<br />
to describe an expert in cookery and a dis<strong>ce</strong>rning lover of<br />
good food.<br />
While Greek gastronomy was refined and sober, gluttony<br />
became the craze in republican Rome, whose feasts feature<br />
<strong>vi</strong><strong>vi</strong>dly in countless books and films. Gastronomy took a re-<br />
al step forward in the Renaissan<strong>ce</strong>, when Italy gave birth to<br />
western cuisine, from which French cooking also drew its<br />
influen<strong>ce</strong>. A royal wedding took things further when Ka-<br />
tariina de Medici married French king Henry II, and she<br />
brought with her to Fran<strong>ce</strong> an army of Florentine chefs. The<br />
French word la cuisine (kitchen) began to mean both<br />
food and its preparation.<br />
Food cultures evolved in dif-<br />
ferent ways in differ-
ent countries and depended greatly on local conditions. Har-<br />
vest time is short in northern Finland and winters long, so<br />
unlike the Italians, say, Finns had to de<strong>vi</strong>se proper methods<br />
of preservation. Salt was imported and expensive, so Finns<br />
settled on drying and acidifying food. Even today, Finnish<br />
food often has a sour taste.<br />
Food culture took its greatest strides towards the present<br />
day with three insights. The first con<strong>ce</strong>rned seasoning. Ini-<br />
tially, spi<strong>ce</strong>s largely obscured the flavour of ingredients, but<br />
in the 17th <strong>ce</strong>ntury chefs began to use them to emphasise fla-<br />
vours. The second big step came with the French Revolution<br />
in 1789, when food preparation and enjoyment moved from<br />
the homes of the nobility into restaurants, and “eating out”<br />
became more common. The third insight was food customs.<br />
As time passed, other food cultures came to the fore. Be-<br />
sides French and Italian cuisine, Chinese, Japanese (especially<br />
sushi) and Thai spread widely. Indian, Turkish, Mexican and<br />
Greek food, for instan<strong>ce</strong>, have also increased in popularity.<br />
It is ironic that the national cuisines that have spread<br />
abroad are often only variations on an original. Food in It-<br />
aly, Fran<strong>ce</strong> and China, will vary greatly from one pro<strong>vi</strong>n<strong>ce</strong><br />
to another, so, in Piedmont, Italy, it is pointless looking for<br />
the same fare as in Tuscany. National cuisines that have trav-<br />
elled are only a set of raw ingredients and recipes from dif-<br />
ferent regions of a country. There is no common theme in<br />
Italian or Chinese cuisine beyond what exists in our minds.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
17
18 V I A HELSINKI<br />
Peas on<br />
the knife?<br />
Many of us pause for a moment when we find three knives<br />
and three forks beside our plate. What was that etiquette<br />
again? And, where did those rules originate? The etiquette<br />
best known in the west, the rules of good manners, is actual-<br />
ly French, and dictates how you should behave at the dining<br />
table. For example, in western etiquette you show by the po-<br />
sition of your cutlery whether you have finished your course<br />
or would like some more.<br />
French dining etiquette is not universal, though, and<br />
each culture has its own rules. Eating habits and even the<br />
utensils vary from country to country. In the west we de-<br />
pend on the knife and fork, China eats with chopsticks and<br />
Thailand uses a fork and spoon. You use the fork to push<br />
the food onto the spoon and eat from that.<br />
We should be aware that many dislikes and ideas about<br />
food are acquired and culturally based. While fried cock-<br />
roaches may be a huge delicacy in Asia, westerners might<br />
well squirm at the thought. Indians wonder how westerners<br />
can eat a cow, a sacred animal. For Indians, eating the flesh<br />
of a cow is about as weird as eating a pet dog would be to<br />
westerners.
Crab With<br />
a Bite<br />
MICHelIn CHeF MarKus<br />
areMo BelIeves IF You<br />
Feel Good WHIle<br />
You CooK, Your Food<br />
WIll Turn ouT rIGHT.<br />
“When you are passionate about cook-<br />
ing,” he declares, “it’s the careful work<br />
rather than the ingredients that guaranteed<br />
good results. However, most important<br />
of all is the mood around the dining<br />
table. I have never drunk bad wine whilst<br />
in good company.<br />
“Here, from various well-known dishes,<br />
I have chosen crab soup, because<br />
there are various types of crab around<br />
the world and it is easy to prepare. It<br />
doesn’t even matter if the soup burns a<br />
little on the bottom – this just ac<strong>ce</strong>ntuates<br />
the toasted flavour of the crab shell.<br />
And if the meat is taken away before the<br />
shells are boiled, it can be used for the<br />
next meal. The flavour and some of the<br />
red colour comes from the shells. The<br />
tomato puree also gives colour. I don’t<br />
use dill as I feel it belongs in the boiling<br />
water used for the crabs, and not in the<br />
soup.<br />
“you know the meal is a suc<strong>ce</strong>ss when<br />
you’ve finished one plate and want some<br />
more.”<br />
Why do we eat?<br />
Our first answer is to stay alive. Believers in evolution contend<br />
that we eat because we are driven by an ancient sur<strong>vi</strong>val<br />
instinct, meaning we eat as much as possible, whenever possible.<br />
Others may say that some of us eat too much because<br />
our bodies have lost a healthy link to their regulatory mechanisms.<br />
This may be a consequen<strong>ce</strong> of overeating in childhood,<br />
for example. If you have been for<strong>ce</strong>d to always finish<br />
your plate whether you’re hungry or not, your body will eventually<br />
no longer recognise what is enough.<br />
Whatever the truth, we today seem to be eating for the<br />
most curious reasons – to derive pleasure from food or drink;<br />
for the sake of company; when there is nothing else to do;<br />
for comfort; because we dare not refuse food or drink; to<br />
achieve a <strong>ce</strong>rtain mood; to recall and remember an earlier<br />
eating event; even to win a prize.<br />
July 4th, 2010 and Joey Chestnut, already three time <strong>vi</strong>ctor<br />
of the hot-dog eating competition, wins again. He wolfs<br />
1 KG CRAb SHELLS<br />
100 ML TOMATO PUREE<br />
100 G CELERy<br />
100 G FEnnEL<br />
2 SPRinG OniOnS<br />
3–4 SPRiGS OF THyME<br />
1/2 bULb OF GARLiC<br />
¼ RED CHiLLi POD<br />
400 ML WHiTE WinE<br />
100 ML bRAnDy<br />
2 L FiSH STOCK OR WATER<br />
40 G bUTTER AnD 40 G WHEAT<br />
FLOUR FOR THiCKEninG<br />
500 ML DOUbLE CREAM<br />
AnD 200 G bUTTER<br />
SALT AnD PEPPER<br />
(AnD A LiqUEUR OR<br />
LOCAL SPiRiT)<br />
AVOCADO OR CROUTOnS<br />
PLACED On TOP OF<br />
THE FiniSHED SOUP<br />
MARKUS AREMO<br />
areMo’s crab souP<br />
• chef at la table bistro in helsinki from 2010.<br />
• achieved Michelin one-star ratings for the restaurants george (2006)<br />
and carma (2008), which he then left so that he could cook in a more<br />
relaxed en<strong>vi</strong>ronment.<br />
• became finnish chef of the year in 1999.<br />
Heat the crab shells, tomato puree, chopped<br />
and peeled vegetables, garlic and thyme in<br />
olive oil in a pan. Add the brandy and white<br />
wine and quickly bring to the boil. Pour the<br />
fish stock into the mixture. Cook the stock<br />
for one hour. Prepare the thickening in another<br />
pan. Strain the hot crab stock into<br />
this. When the soup is thick enough, season<br />
with butter, cream, pepper and salt, which<br />
you can add generously. You can give it an<br />
edge by adding a dash of liqueur or spirit.<br />
down 54 hot dogs in ten minutes, securing the 95th Nathan’s<br />
Hot Dog Eating Contest, an annual munch-fest on Coney<br />
Island, New York. Last year this world’s most famous hotdog<br />
eating joust was watched by more than 40,000 spectators,<br />
while more than 1.7 million <strong>vi</strong>ewed it live on tele<strong>vi</strong>sion.<br />
And there’s this: Mexican Manuel “Xa<strong>vi</strong>er” Uribe (b.<br />
1965), still the world’s hea<strong>vi</strong>est man a year ago, weighed at his<br />
hea<strong>vi</strong>est about 597 kg (1,320 lb). He could no longer get out<br />
of bed without the help of his mother and fiancée. Manuel<br />
sought expert help and tried desperately to slim down.<br />
Modern disorders such as obesity, anorexia and bulimia<br />
show that our relationship with food has become complicated.<br />
We no longer eat purely for our body’s needs.<br />
It is claimed that eating is the first manifestation of love.<br />
For adults, food may be a substitute for love. Dream interpreters<br />
suggest the same thing. In dream symbolism, food<br />
indicates the feelings and longings of the dreamer. The food<br />
in the dream might suggest <strong>ce</strong>rtain missed experien<strong>ce</strong>s or<br />
what the dreamer longs for in life. Similarly, it matters who<br />
pro<strong>vi</strong>des the grub (or love) in the dream. Or who refuses it.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
istockphoto<br />
19
a sudden overdose oF BeauTY Can MaKe You<br />
JusT as sICK as an eaTInG BInGe WIll.<br />
20 V I A HELSINKI<br />
How does<br />
food affect us?<br />
Do you order “the usual” or vegetarian on a flight? Do you<br />
think about what you eat? Do you eat healthily? Are there a<br />
lot of additives in your meals? Do you choose low fat prod-<br />
ucts, locally-sour<strong>ce</strong>d or organic food?<br />
We constantly fa<strong>ce</strong> such choi<strong>ce</strong>s. We are drowning in a<br />
sea of comestible data, but it’s inconsistent. Scientific find-<br />
ings and recommendations change all the time with new re-<br />
search, so we feel un<strong>ce</strong>rtain. Am I eating well? It is ever hard-<br />
er to answer this question. There’s an increasing proportion<br />
of additives and genetically modified or otherwise altered<br />
ingredients in our diet and no one knows the consequen<strong>ce</strong>s.<br />
A completely separate question – but just as interesting –<br />
is how the ingredients we eat or drink affect how we experi-<br />
en<strong>ce</strong> the world. Yet one thing is <strong>ce</strong>rtain, they do have an im-<br />
pact. Plant-derived sedatives and drugs have been around<br />
for aeons and people around the world have used them to al-<br />
ter their consciousness. Modern scien<strong>ce</strong> does the same with<br />
synthetic products in particular, such as sedatives and anti-<br />
depressants. We also like to change our consciousness our-<br />
selves and splash out huge sums on stimulants, such as al-<br />
cohol. What does this tell us? Do most of us really want to<br />
escape from our own lives and surroundings for a while?<br />
Not all substan<strong>ce</strong>s blur our sense of reality the way alco-<br />
hol does, and the effect may be the opposite, heightening our<br />
Capital Tastes<br />
COPEnHAGEn 1 hr 35 min<br />
the suc<strong>ce</strong>ss story of Smørrebrød, the<br />
danish sandwich, began in the latter half<br />
of the 19th <strong>ce</strong>ntury, when the copenhagen<br />
offi<strong>ce</strong>rs’ club created the first sandwich<br />
menu. key to Smørrebrød is that you can<br />
be imaginative and relaxed about preparing<br />
them. and you can enjoy them as an<br />
everyday snack, as a main meal, and with<br />
a beer or schnapps. you can pile absolutely<br />
anything you want onto a thin sli<strong>ce</strong><br />
of bread – vegetables, cheese, meat, even<br />
chocolate, fruit salad and whipped cream.<br />
awareness, at least if you believe essayist, novelist and social<br />
critic Aldous Huxley. He became a guinea pig for a research-<br />
er studying the effects of mescaline on the human mind and<br />
on interpretations of external reality.<br />
One May morning in the 1950s, Huxley swallowed 0.4 g<br />
of mescaline in a glass of water. Huxley reported that that<br />
minuscule drop of mescaline taken from the peyote cactus<br />
drastically changed his per<strong>ce</strong>ption of reality, of himself and<br />
his body. He based his world-famous book The Doors of Per-<br />
<strong>ce</strong>ption on his experien<strong>ce</strong>s.<br />
Surprisingly, Huxley did not feel that mescaline fabricat-<br />
ed reality but conversely, it helped him understand its in-<br />
nermost make-up. Encouraged by his experien<strong>ce</strong>s, he asks<br />
in his book whether we actually see the world as it is, at all.<br />
Huxley explains that beluga whales, for example, per<strong>ce</strong>ive<br />
the world in four dimensions and not three, as humans do.<br />
In bats, hearing and touch are combined with sight, so their<br />
awareness of phenomena is more comprehensive than ours.<br />
He believed that the operation of human senses <strong>vi</strong>a the brain<br />
and nervous system tended to eliminate rather than produ<strong>ce</strong><br />
sensation. So, we don’t per<strong>ce</strong>ive everything that exists. Only<br />
part of it filters through to us.<br />
In this other consciousness, the “ego” became less impor-<br />
tant and Huxley says he felt more like a small part of a large<br />
entity. Also, his relationship with his own body changed, as<br />
though he had strayed from his body without identifying<br />
with it. Different things now seemed important and he be-<br />
came more interested in the deep meaning of things. Time<br />
as a phenomenon disappeared, and he noti<strong>ce</strong>d he no long-<br />
Helsinki airport is also a gateway to a world of flavours. The cuisine typical of the pla<strong>ce</strong>s awaiting you at the end of<br />
ViEnnA 2 hr 30 min<br />
a culinary speciality in the cafes of<br />
Vienna is Sachertorte, a chocolate<br />
cake flavoured with apricot jam. this<br />
came into existen<strong>ce</strong>, like diamonds,<br />
under extreme pressure. in 1832, Prin<strong>ce</strong><br />
Wenzel Clemens Metternich ordered<br />
his kitchen staff to produ<strong>ce</strong> a particularly<br />
tasty dessert for some unexpected<br />
guests. when the head chef was taken<br />
ill, his 16-year-old apprenti<strong>ce</strong> Franz<br />
Sacher had to fill in for his boss. the<br />
rest, as they say, is history.
er per<strong>ce</strong>ived his en<strong>vi</strong>ronment primarily through perspective<br />
but <strong>vi</strong>a colours and the inner meaning of entities in particular.<br />
This way of looking at and seeing the world and himself<br />
was completely different, but at the same time, Huxley said,<br />
it felt more real than real life.<br />
Was he describing a reality that had opened up to him<br />
momentarily when some shutter mechanism had switched<br />
off? He believed so. No need for the rest of us to take mes-<br />
your flight is part of their soul, a summary of their culture. Photos: iStockphoto<br />
nEW yORK 8 hr 40 min<br />
hot-dog stalls and carts are<br />
a familiar sight on the streets<br />
of new york. there is no precise<br />
information about the<br />
inventor of this popular commodity,<br />
but it is said that this<br />
fast-food classic came ashore<br />
in the big apple around the<br />
1870s, when the german-born<br />
immigrant Charles Feltman<br />
began to sell sausage buns<br />
on coney island.<br />
caline or drugs, but perhaps similar experien<strong>ce</strong>s are possible<br />
without them. Huxley’s accounts are surprisingly similar<br />
to those found in sacred books of different cultures or,<br />
for example, the collective discussions of physicist Da<strong>vi</strong>d<br />
Bohm and the philosopher Krishnamurti. Could that widening<br />
of consciousness we call enlightenment open a window<br />
to a different kind of reality than the one we have become<br />
accustomed to?<br />
bEiJinG 7 hr 40 min<br />
Peking duck, referred to as one<br />
national dish of china, has already<br />
spoiled gourmands for hundreds<br />
of years now. requiring much<br />
time and effort, it is mentioned<br />
for the first time in 1330, in the<br />
recipe book of the imperial kitchen.<br />
Peking duck is produ<strong>ce</strong>d<br />
from birds specially reared for the<br />
purpose, and is roasted so that its<br />
skin becomes particularly tasty<br />
and crisp.<br />
SEOUL 8 hr 35 min<br />
in korea, the taste<br />
of all tastes is the<br />
fiery kimchi, lacticacid<br />
fermented<br />
chinese cabbage,<br />
served as an<br />
accompaniment<br />
and as part of a<br />
dish, such as kimchi ri<strong>ce</strong> or soup. the spi<strong>ce</strong>s<br />
used are chilli, onion, garlic, radish and<br />
ginger. the roots of this national dish extend<br />
back to the 7th <strong>ce</strong>ntury.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
21
22 V I A HELSINKI<br />
Feast the eye,<br />
feed the soul<br />
Mediaeval illustrations show black demons fleeing the<br />
mouths of the healed, while golden threads are said to bind<br />
the mouths of poets to heaven. Food and the mouth are closely<br />
associated with each other and to spirituality. We eat our<br />
food and breathe through the mouth, which also generates the<br />
speech by which we communicate. They also say the mouth<br />
speaks what fills the heart.<br />
Many artists are con<strong>vi</strong>n<strong>ce</strong>d that man is not purely a physical<br />
being but also a spiritual one. For them, a beautiful en<strong>vi</strong>ronment,<br />
music, the <strong>vi</strong>sual arts, literature, poetry or a walk<br />
in the garden or in the wilds seem to satisfy a different kind<br />
of hunger than a physical one. A person who craves food for<br />
the soul or what is pleasant to the eye will waste from within<br />
exactly as if they were to starve.<br />
Yet a sudden overdose of beauty can make you just as sick<br />
as an eating binge will, as Italian psychiatrist Graziella Magherini<br />
noti<strong>ce</strong>d in her work in Floren<strong>ce</strong>. Foreign tourists often<br />
arrived at her practi<strong>ce</strong> complaining of similar symptoms;<br />
nausea, palpitations and confusion.<br />
She realised their symptoms stemmed from an ex<strong>ce</strong>ptionally<br />
intense art-related experien<strong>ce</strong>, from art-indu<strong>ce</strong>d ecstasy,<br />
a kind of extreme reaction to an aesthetic experien<strong>ce</strong>. She diagnosed<br />
the condition unofficially as Stendhal syndrome, referring<br />
to the French author Stendhal (1783–1842, real name<br />
Marie-Henri Beyle), who described similar symptoms in his<br />
work Rome, Naples et Floren<strong>ce</strong>. In 1979, the sickness was diagnosed<br />
as psychosomatic.<br />
Huxley too, became con<strong>vi</strong>n<strong>ce</strong>d that man, aware that he is<br />
not seeing the full picture, tries to reach towards it. Besides<br />
edible food, we need food for the soul and a feast for the eye.<br />
He believed art, religion, carnivals, dan<strong>ce</strong> and prayer served<br />
as doors in an enclosing wall. We try to pass through these<br />
doors to extend our consciousness beyond the enclosing wall<br />
– and thus see more of reality.<br />
numerous encyclopaedias and websites have been used for information in<br />
this feature, including the Spectrum series, CD-Fakta and wikipedia, among<br />
others. other referen<strong>ce</strong>s: J. krishnamurti and da<strong>vi</strong>d bohm: The Ending of<br />
Time, anthony de Mello: Awakening, Meister eckhart: The depths of the soul.<br />
The World on a Plate<br />
Helsinki Airport offers a plethora of tasty delights for<br />
peckish travellers, whether you’re in a terminal or on the<br />
plane. At this intersection of food cultures you’re sure<br />
to find something to satisfy you, whatever your taste or<br />
mood.<br />
AT THE AiRPORT…<br />
…light snacks are on offer at Bar Delight (gate 14), Café<br />
Picnic (terMinal 2) and Café Tuuli (gate 27), where you<br />
can also buy food to take away. take-away fare is also available<br />
from Picnic Take Away (terMinal 2/arriVals 2a)<br />
and Go! Café (gate 20 and terMinal 1).<br />
finnish cuisine is pro<strong>vi</strong>ded by Café Alvar A (gate 24),<br />
decorated in the style of architect Alvar Aalto, and Seasons<br />
restaurant & Café (gate 14).<br />
savour a full-course meal at My City Helsinki (gate 35),<br />
amid decor that draws from finnish nature and design, and<br />
Fly Inn restaurant & Deli (gate 27), commanding <strong>vi</strong>ews of<br />
the runway.<br />
it is worth stopping at Cesar’s Pizza & Food Court (terMinal<br />
2) for a buffet meal or at breakfast time. Coffee Spoon<br />
(check-in area of terMinal 2), is the pla<strong>ce</strong> for snacks,<br />
soups and salads.<br />
in THE AiR…<br />
…the conditions may be tricky and there are limited options,<br />
so meal planning becomes important. Planning depends on<br />
the route. “the length of the flight determines the arrangements,”<br />
explains Maarit Örn, head of Product development<br />
at finnair catering, which is responsible for supplying meals<br />
to many other companies besides finnair. on long-haul<br />
flights, the meals on the return journey are sour<strong>ce</strong>d from the<br />
destination country to guarantee their freshness.<br />
the dishes are also selected on the basis of the route.<br />
they must appeal to as many people as possible.<br />
“our current theme is nordic cuisine, but we also take<br />
account of the food culture of the destination countries,”<br />
Maarit notes.<br />
she says the scandina<strong>vi</strong>an theme is apparent in the simplicity<br />
of the meals and in their ingredients. salmon, reindeer,<br />
chanterelles and finnish cheeses and berries are much<br />
in e<strong>vi</strong>den<strong>ce</strong>, though other national tastes are also taken into<br />
account. for example, Japanese passengers are offered<br />
white fish, and indians are always offered vegetables as a<br />
choi<strong>ce</strong> of main course.<br />
the caterers also take ideas from asia for european<br />
flights, because eastern food is enjoyed right around the<br />
world.
When Flavours Meet<br />
WHen easT MeeTs WesT In THe KITCHen,<br />
TWo ToTallY dIFFerenT Worlds oF TasTe<br />
CoMe FaCe To FaCe. WHICH Is preCIselY<br />
WHY THeY Have so MuCH To oFFer.<br />
“it is worth throwing Eastern and Western flavours together in the<br />
same meal, rather than on the same plate. If you combine them in the<br />
same dish, too many compromises have to be made. You can <strong>ce</strong>rtainly<br />
try to combine the methods of preparation and cooking”, says chef<br />
Matti Jämsen.<br />
In his opinion, the best part of Eastern cuisine is its spiciness, which<br />
should be introdu<strong>ce</strong>d to the West. “The world of flavours is richer in the<br />
East: there is fieriness and sweetness and a lot of flavours in between.”<br />
The converse idea is more difficult in his opinion, but in the East<br />
they could at least learn something from the simplicity of Western<br />
cooking. In the production of sushi, for instan<strong>ce</strong>, the idea is <strong>ce</strong>rtainly<br />
coming to fruition.<br />
Jämsen represented Finland in the 2011 Bocuse d'Or, the world's<br />
most respected cooking competition. In October, he participated in<br />
the Helsinki Airport Food & Fun event, which brought together 12 top<br />
experts in Asian and Western cuisine. The participants were split into<br />
Eastbound and Westbound teams, of which Jämsen belonged to the latter.<br />
For Thai chef Manit Poonhiran, who represented the East, when<br />
different styles of cuisine come fa<strong>ce</strong> to fa<strong>ce</strong>, it is a question of borrowing<br />
ideas above all, and not so much about mixing food cultures. So if<br />
the original ingredient is not available, he will use a local equivalent<br />
without a second thought. In Finland, papaya can be repla<strong>ce</strong>d with carrot<br />
or swede.<br />
Local tastes. The flavours of various countries are shaped, first and<br />
foremost, by their climatic conditions. The characteristics of food cultures<br />
are dictated initially by custom and constraints.<br />
Many ingredients commonpla<strong>ce</strong> in Thailand, such as lime, lemongrass<br />
and coriander, were for a long time unknown in Finland, and even<br />
today they are still imported. Before industrialisation, the raw ingredients<br />
were grown, collected and caught by the user. In countries with<br />
a short growing season, the shelf life of ingredients was paramount,<br />
which explains the strong foothold of salt, cabbage and swede in traditional<br />
Finnish food.<br />
In Thailand, it has been difficult to preserve raw ingredients for the<br />
opposite reason. Food goes off quickly in the heat. The basic spi<strong>ce</strong> of<br />
Thai food, renowned for its fieriness, is chilli pepper, which keeps food<br />
edible for longer, and in tropical regions the capsaicin in it is useful in<br />
another way too, cooling the body by making it sweat.<br />
Stepping into the fire. Both the fireworks of Eastern spi<strong>ce</strong>s and the<br />
mild flavours of Western food demand attention.<br />
We acquire our fondness for <strong>ce</strong>rtain tastes, which develop according<br />
to our surrounding food culture, which is why Thai food, for example,<br />
seems too fiery for many Finns.<br />
“Fieriness has not been part of our food culture. You become used<br />
to fiery food when you start eating it as a child. On the other hand,<br />
travel develops our palate from one generation to the next. Coriander<br />
has been introdu<strong>ce</strong>d to us in this way”, explains Jämsen.<br />
As these indi<strong>vi</strong>dual changes become more common they influen<strong>ce</strong><br />
the whole food culture, quite rapidly in fact. Poonhiran has first-hand<br />
experien<strong>ce</strong> of this phenomenon. While working in the Naantali Spa<br />
Hotel's Thai Garden restaurant, he has noti<strong>ce</strong>d that Finns who are particularly<br />
keen on holidaying in Thailand have quickly become lovers of<br />
fiery food. “When I started here as chef we used half a kilo of chilli a<br />
week. Now we’re using five kilos.”<br />
HelsInKI aIrporT Food & Fun,<br />
November 2010<br />
Teams of chefs gathered at this hub of air traffic<br />
between europe and asia to <strong>ce</strong>lebrate travel cuisine<br />
and the felicitous meeting of east and West.<br />
Their task was to create the travel food of the future<br />
– three travel-sized amuse-bouches, ‘amusements<br />
for the mouth’, which high-quality restaurants<br />
use as a way to greet their customers. They<br />
prepared three bite-sized morsels, one of fish, one<br />
of meat, and a dessert. They selected natural ingredients<br />
from east and West.<br />
The top chefs swapped ideas during the breaks<br />
and in the panel discussion on future trends, where<br />
it was found that air passengers expect quality<br />
and local sourcing of food, above all. To end it all<br />
their delicacies were gobbled down at the Fly Inn<br />
restaurant, which was also <strong>ce</strong>lebrating its opening.<br />
“We are absolutely <strong>ce</strong>rtain that at least some of<br />
these dishes will end up on our menu”, says Kalle<br />
Ruuskanen, Managing director of the restaurant’s<br />
owner, select ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> partner Finland.<br />
The event, which began in 2000 in reykja<strong>vi</strong>k,<br />
was in Finland for the first time and was organised<br />
by Finnair and I<strong>ce</strong>landair.<br />
www.foodnfun.fi<br />
Fly Inn GaTe 27<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
23
24 V I A HELSINKI
TEXT MEDIAFoCUS PHOTOS jArMo TEINILÄ<br />
Brand<br />
for World Sur<strong>vi</strong>val<br />
Be aFraId ClIMaTe CHanGe and oTHer<br />
World proBleMs – Here CoMes THe<br />
GrIM reaper. For one CounTrY Can<br />
save THe planeT – You’ve Guessed<br />
IT – FInland! MarIMeKKo CHIeF,<br />
MIKa IHaMuoTIla, Tells us WHY THe<br />
CounTrY Could Be a superHero.<br />
Brands are everywhere. We eat them, drink them,<br />
breathe them. But what sort of brand is a country,<br />
state or nation? And what’s the point of a brand<br />
you can’t buy or sell?<br />
A group of Finnish experts from different fields set out in<br />
late 2008 to answer these and many other questions. Their<br />
mandate from Foreign Minister Alexander Stubb was to de-<br />
termine Finland’s trump cards in a climate of ever fier<strong>ce</strong>r in-<br />
ternational competition – and how to play them.<br />
Many countries have carried out similar projects to show<br />
off their advantages. Country branding was widely seen as a<br />
way to attract tourists, students, experts and companies to a<br />
country. Now it was Finland’s turn to try.<br />
Nokia strong man Jorma Ollila headed the Finland Brand<br />
committee, guaranteeing media attention from the outset. The<br />
team worked mainly behind closed doors but it leaked onto<br />
the internet and TV, inspiring Finns to think about the sort of<br />
country Finland is and what its people are like. The aim had<br />
nothing to do with nostalgia; it was the future that mattered,<br />
right up to the year 2030.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
25
FunCTIonalITY Means THaT FInns FInd soluTIons<br />
To proBleMs and puT THeM InTo eFFeCT.<br />
Mission Possible! Finally, in November 2010 the Brand del-<br />
egation’s work bore fruit in a report of more than 300 pages,<br />
which, instead of advertising jargon, contained a number of<br />
missions that Finns – citizens, companies and state – should<br />
carry out if Finland is to achieve its objectives. Which are..?<br />
Nothing more or less than to be the number one country to<br />
solve the world’s most pressing problems!<br />
One member of the team, fashion house Marimekko’s CEO<br />
Mika Ihamuotila, smiles when he recalls the media’s about<br />
turn when they saw the report. “For the whole two years we<br />
heard nothing but doubt and criticism, but they changed their<br />
tune completely as soon as the report came out.”<br />
Ihamuotila thinks the change in the attitude of the press<br />
reflects the fact that the report addressed the core of Finn-<br />
ishness – Finns are people of action, unafraid to roll up their<br />
sleeves and get to work. The huge final report came as a call<br />
for united action – what Finns call ‘talkoot’.<br />
Yes, action. If you are going to learn even one word of Finnish<br />
you’d do well to start with talkoot, which says much about<br />
the national character. ‘Talkoot’ simply means working to-<br />
26 V I A HELSINKI<br />
gether – building a barn, a church or the welfare state, for<br />
no reward apart, perhaps, from a turn in the sauna in good<br />
company when the work is over.<br />
The Brand team’s noble idea is to turn attention away from<br />
the conventional targets of branding, the country, its history,<br />
its tourist destinations, and focus on the nation itself, the<br />
Finns and their culture in its various manifestations.<br />
The committee was supported in its ideas by Simon Anholt,<br />
the man who invented the country branding con<strong>ce</strong>pt<br />
almost 20 years ago. He organised five brainstorming sessions<br />
for the team, and as the leading guru in the field, he was ultimately<br />
impressed by their attitudes and level of commitment.<br />
“We think this is the most ambitious brand report ever<br />
produ<strong>ce</strong>d. And Anholt thought so too,” chuckles Ihamuotila.<br />
Plan for action. Jorma Ollila unveiled the report in November,<br />
calling it a model for the entire world. If people really<br />
wanted to move from talk to action, what could be a better<br />
solution than a practical manual? Ihamuotila agrees: “The<br />
Finland brand project will <strong>ce</strong>rtainly be one important point
of referen<strong>ce</strong> for countries that will do the same thing one day.<br />
This is one way to grab the bull by the horns.”<br />
So what aspects of Finland and its people does the Brand<br />
team highlight? The mighty tome relates to three key words,<br />
functionality, education, and nature. Of these the last is self-<br />
explanatory – Finland is a land of thousands of lakes and<br />
green forests where people put a high premium on their re-<br />
lationship with nature.<br />
In education, Finland is buoyant and representative. It is<br />
the shining star of the PISA studies, which have promoted<br />
the Finnish educational system far and wide. But what about<br />
Finnish functionality? The CEO and owner of Marimekko,<br />
Finland’s most legendary design company, is definitely the<br />
right man to answer this.<br />
“In a nutshell, functionality means that Finns find solu-<br />
tions to problems and put them into effect.” Ihamuotila be-<br />
lieves there are plenty of nations where creati<strong>vi</strong>ty and ideas<br />
abound but things just do not get done. There are also coun-<br />
tries that do not have a creative bent but do have the ability<br />
to carry out projects uncompromisingly.<br />
“Finland, however, is that rarity, a country with much cre-<br />
ati<strong>vi</strong>ty and capability to think about things from a new per-<br />
spective and, at the same time, the skills to make these <strong>vi</strong>-<br />
sions a reality.”<br />
Ihamuotila also mentions decorativeness, a hallmark of<br />
the design tradition in many countries, and often a value in<br />
itself. But decorativeness often means gaudy and flamboyant<br />
above all, whereas in Finland design has always rested on the<br />
notion that simple and functional are beautiful. “There is ob-<br />
<strong>vi</strong>ously a kind of as<strong>ce</strong>ticism behind this – we cannot afford<br />
to waste the few resour<strong>ce</strong>s of a small northern country. So<br />
our designers quickly learned to con<strong>ce</strong>ntrate on essentials.”<br />
As head of Marimekko, Ihamuotila ob<strong>vi</strong>ously knows fash-<br />
ion and the world of design best, but stresses that he means<br />
design in its broader sense. “Design extends to all areas of<br />
planning – whether you’re designing an educational system<br />
or a single school, or an airport, say, which must also func-<br />
tion in the winter and doesn’t cause congestion,” he says.<br />
“The question is how beauty and functionality can be com-<br />
bined in the best possible way.”<br />
Durable attitudes. Ihamuotila thinks a Finnish design phi-<br />
losophy is more ne<strong>ce</strong>ssary now than ever. With climate change<br />
we can no longer afford to produ<strong>ce</strong> disposable products. Du-<br />
rability is just as important as ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>ability among custom-<br />
ers the world over. “Durability has always been fundamen-<br />
tally important in Finnish design, but this is not so by any<br />
‘TO DO’ LiST FOR FinnS<br />
MiSSiOn FOR COMPAniES:<br />
solve a global problem and make good business out of it.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR SCHOOLS:<br />
every year schools should hold a day of reconciliation,<br />
when pupils practise discussing and resol<strong>vi</strong>ng conflicts.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR LOCAL AUTHORiTiES AnD THE STATE:<br />
Public procurement should favour energy-efficient products<br />
that can be ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>d and repaired.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR THE MiniSTRy OF FinAnCE:<br />
Make gross national sustainability measurable.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR THE MiniSTRy OF THE EnViROnMEnT:<br />
a water meter, i.e. water as a populariser of international<br />
en<strong>vi</strong>ronmental policy.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR SPORTS CELEbRiTiES:<br />
go to a school on<strong>ce</strong> a year to teach.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR THE MEDiA:<br />
take the popularisation of scien<strong>ce</strong> to a whole new level.<br />
MiSSiOn FOR GRAnDPAREnTS:<br />
share your manual skills.<br />
means in the traditions of other countries. Finns make lifts,<br />
drinking glasses and roads. No one can say these are disposable<br />
goods.”<br />
Ihamuotila had long pondered these matters before the<br />
country Brand team was set up. Three years ago the former<br />
banker made a great change in his life, abandoning the world<br />
of finan<strong>ce</strong> and taking over the management of Marimekko.<br />
The grand old lady of Finnish design, Kirsti Paakkanen,<br />
sold Ihamuotila an iconic firm she had on<strong>ce</strong> rescued from<br />
near death.<br />
Things were not easy for Ihamuotila either. When he took<br />
over Marimekko, Finland was gripped by economic crisis and<br />
the world was sinking into re<strong>ce</strong>ssion. Yet he was clear about<br />
the direction he would take the company in. “There may have<br />
been a re<strong>ce</strong>ssion but we wanted to continue with product development<br />
and open shops abroad,” he says, adding that the<br />
policy proved right. Marimekko has now built the foundations<br />
for a suc<strong>ce</strong>ssful future, he says.<br />
Marimekko’s re<strong>ce</strong>nt global triumphs recall the lines of a<br />
Leonard Cohen song; “First we take Manhattan, then we take<br />
Berlin.” Japan now has 20 Marimekko outlets and South Korea<br />
has just gained its first. Ihamuotila wants to bring to the<br />
world his sense of joy of life and his attitude through fashion<br />
and design. This year Marimekko is 60 years old. The company<br />
wants to cast off the “performan<strong>ce</strong>-<strong>ce</strong>ntred theatre”<br />
and repla<strong>ce</strong> it with well-being. At 60 the firm does not want<br />
to be merely a ‘heritage’ brand, simply resting on its laurels.<br />
“Marimekko’s ideology has always been to shy away from<br />
any kind of preten<strong>ce</strong>. When people have the courage to be<br />
themselves the world becomes a better pla<strong>ce</strong>,” Ihamuotila<br />
believes.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
27
28<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
DAN rIDEr PHOTOS ISToCKPHoTo, WIKIMEDIA
Lord<br />
Kings<br />
of the<br />
KInG HenrY vIII’s dYnaMIC<br />
personalITY doMInaTed<br />
HIs TIMe and ConTInues To<br />
FasCInaTe our oWn.<br />
He Was CroWned<br />
KInG aT WesT-<br />
MInsTer aBBeY<br />
In June 1509…<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
29
It was a reign that became a personal quest for fame<br />
30 V I A HELSINKI<br />
and power as obsessive as that of any 21st <strong>ce</strong>ntury <strong>ce</strong>-<br />
lebrity or politician. Rarely within the British mon-<br />
archy have events – in society, religion, foreign rela-<br />
tions and politics – so radically affected future generations.<br />
Above all, the English Reformation and the break with Rome<br />
would change the fa<strong>ce</strong> of England forever and Henry would<br />
banish in a single generation all his traditional medieval<br />
prede<strong>ce</strong>ssors as a stroke. The result was a revolutionary im-<br />
perial monarchy that would lead to Henry VIII becoming<br />
arguably the most infamous king in history. But, it would<br />
come at a severe pri<strong>ce</strong>.<br />
On 24th June 1509, the teenage Henry was crowned king<br />
in front of the high altar at Westminster Abbey in London.<br />
Just seventeen years old, his personality – sunny, romantic<br />
and gregarious – was the opposite of his father’s and prom-<br />
ised the new Tudor dynasty a fresh start. Henry though, was<br />
HenrY’s soap opera: sIx<br />
MarrIaGes, TWo WIves<br />
dIvorCed and TWo BeHeaded,<br />
produCed THree CHIldren<br />
BY dIFFerenT MoTHers.<br />
inheriting the crown with a heavy burden. His father, Henry<br />
VII, had died in his bed and died rich after a reign of almost<br />
24 years, but his dreams of an English monarchy that<br />
ruled Scotland, Ireland and Fran<strong>ce</strong> and dominated Europe<br />
too, had ended in frustration. The old king in his final years<br />
was regarded by his public as a miser and a tyrant and ruled<br />
his ‘empire’ like a private landlord, greedy for the ‘rent’. And<br />
for those who knew their history, including his son, this was<br />
not how a great ruler was supposed to behave.<br />
Henry VIII, however, was not brought up to be king. That<br />
future had been destined for his older brother Arthur, Prin<strong>ce</strong><br />
of Wales. Thus, as the second heir to the throne, Henry re<strong>ce</strong>ived<br />
a seemingly modern upbringing and was nurtured at<br />
Eltham Pala<strong>ce</strong>, Greenwich, by his mother Elizabeth and his<br />
sisters who idolised the strong and confident boy.<br />
Given the best education in Latin scholarship, Henry was<br />
highly intellectual, precocious and oozed star quality during<br />
his preteen years. Then it all changed. In 1502, when Henry<br />
was 11, his brother Arthur died of tuberculosis, followed<br />
soon after by his beloved mother. Now heir to the throne<br />
and growing up fast, a huge sour<strong>ce</strong> of conflict arose over his<br />
passionate participation in extreme sports, something his<br />
fier<strong>ce</strong>ly protective father was strongly against. These conflicting<br />
values would last until 21 April 1509, when his father<br />
died and Henry was crowned amidst wild s<strong>ce</strong>nes of popular<br />
rejoicing. Thus fired up with the idealism of youth and<br />
brought up on the legends of King Arthur and the heroic exploits<br />
of his an<strong>ce</strong>stor Henry V (and his famous <strong>vi</strong>ctory at the<br />
Battle of Agincourt), belie<strong>vi</strong>ng that a great king should also<br />
be a great warrior, Henry determined to make them the role<br />
models for his reign.<br />
With a large inheritan<strong>ce</strong> and the first pea<strong>ce</strong>ful transition<br />
of power sin<strong>ce</strong> the end of the War of the Roses in 1485, Henry’s<br />
court soon took on the feel of a magnifi<strong>ce</strong>nt party, with<br />
endless rounds of tournaments, jousts and courtly splendours.<br />
Soon all Europe was bedazzled by this <strong>vi</strong>brant young<br />
king and the associated glamour and pageantry. His desire<br />
was ob<strong>vi</strong>ous – a ‘splendid monarchy’ – and for glory, the impending<br />
conquest of Fran<strong>ce</strong>.<br />
Just days after his 18th birthday and 13 days before he was<br />
crowned, he married his brothers’ widow, the Spanish prin<strong>ce</strong>ss<br />
Catherine of Aragon, six years his senior. While <strong>ce</strong>menting<br />
England’s allian<strong>ce</strong> with Spain against Fran<strong>ce</strong>, Henry loved<br />
the confident, powerful and beautiful Catherine, but as the<br />
years passed and she failed to produ<strong>ce</strong> an heir – though his<br />
<strong>vi</strong>ctories in Fran<strong>ce</strong> had restored England’s heroism in battle<br />
– his personal life became increasingly fraught.
y 1525, Henry was a still youthful 34, but Catherine, who<br />
he’d long sin<strong>ce</strong> fallen out of love with, was 40 and had aged<br />
badly. She was almost continually pregnant during the first<br />
ten years of marriage but only one child sur<strong>vi</strong>ved, a daughter<br />
Mary (later to reign as queen from 1553–1558 and earn her-<br />
self the nickname Bloody Mary for her burning of Catholics).<br />
Like other kings, Henry had numerous mistresses and<br />
even a known son by one of them, but as his need for a male<br />
heir became palpable, into the s<strong>ce</strong>ne stepped Anne Boleyn,<br />
sister of one of his former mistresses. Seductive, intelligent<br />
and highly sexual, Anne refused sexual relations with Hen-<br />
ry unless he agreed to marry her. Still married to Catherine,<br />
who refused a divor<strong>ce</strong>, Henry eagerly began looking for le-<br />
gal grounds to dissolve the marriage, though he was fearful<br />
that the result might cause war with Spain.<br />
After two failed divor<strong>ce</strong> trials, by 1529, Henry was furious<br />
with both Catherine and Pope Clement VII who had failed<br />
to give him the freedom he so desired. Ordering his friend<br />
Thomas More to enfor<strong>ce</strong> religious changes that would allow<br />
him to remarry, finally, on 15th May 1531, with the shocked<br />
but obedient support of his parliament and the required leg-<br />
islation, Henry proclaimed himself Head of the Church of<br />
England. This assertion of the new royal Supremacy opened<br />
the way to a Protestant English Church separate from the<br />
Roman Catholic Church in Rome, a state which continues<br />
to the present day.<br />
It would be a dramatic but ultimately fleeting <strong>vi</strong>ctory,<br />
for more troubles had arisen. By Christmas 1532, Anne was<br />
pregnant and in strict secrecy, in January 1533, he married<br />
her though Catherine was still legally his wife. With a third<br />
divor<strong>ce</strong> trial, the new Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas<br />
Cranmer, swiftly ruled the first marriage void and Henry,<br />
after seven years of battle, finally had the queen he wanted.<br />
A new daughter, Elizabeth, soon followed (who as Elizabeth<br />
I, the ‘Virgin Queen’, reigned from 1558–1603 and during<br />
that heady Shakespearean era, became perhaps the monar-<br />
chy’s most iconic queen).<br />
The fate of Anne was more tragic however, as after only<br />
three years of marriage, she was sent to the Tower of London<br />
and executed on lurid (and now thought partly true) charges<br />
of adultery, in<strong>ce</strong>st and sexual perversion, when in reality her<br />
crime was mostly failing to adjust from the dominant role of<br />
mistress to submissive wife. She had also failed to produ<strong>ce</strong> a<br />
male heir. A day after Anne’s execution, on 30th May, 1536,<br />
Henry married the demure and conservative Jane Seymour<br />
who gave Henry a son, Edward (who became King Edward<br />
VI upon Henry’s death and reigned between 1547–1553).<br />
And though Jane died a few days later of puerperal fever,<br />
Henry’s first two disputed marriages and lack of male heir<br />
were now solved.<br />
by 1544, Henry, in the third decade of his reign, ruled England<br />
more like an emperor than a mere king. Though increasingly<br />
corpulent and plagued by ill-health – due to his continuing<br />
heroic consumption of alcohol and fatty red meat, a<br />
badly healed jousting wound and re<strong>ce</strong>nt e<strong>vi</strong>den<strong>ce</strong> that suggests<br />
advan<strong>ce</strong>d syphilis – he continued to rule with absolute<br />
power and growing tyranny. Yet, by making himself Supreme<br />
Head of the Church of England, plundering the monasteries’<br />
vast financial resour<strong>ce</strong>s and becoming extremely rich, he<br />
took the monarchy to an historical peak that has never been<br />
surpassed. He died on January 28th, 1547, aged 55.<br />
He was a true Renaissan<strong>ce</strong> man, heroic in war, egotistical,<br />
charismatic to all and fluent in several languages. But the soap<br />
opera turmoil – of six marriages (to Anne of Cleves, Catherine<br />
Howard and Catherine Parr in later years), two wives<br />
divor<strong>ce</strong>d (and two famously beheaded) that produ<strong>ce</strong>d three<br />
children by different mothers – created a fractured legacy for<br />
generations to come. Henry VIII however, has forever been<br />
immortalised as a complex, towering, lustful and brutally<br />
controversial cultural icon of the British Monarchy.<br />
the second-in-line to the british throne, hrh Prin<strong>ce</strong> William of wales, will<br />
marry Miss Catherine Middleton at westminster abbey, london on friday<br />
april 29th.<br />
Destination London<br />
The marriage of Prin<strong>ce</strong><br />
william to kate Middleton<br />
will be the 15th royal<br />
wedding at westminster<br />
abbey sin<strong>ce</strong> king henry i<br />
married Queen Mathilda<br />
of scotland in november<br />
1100. the abbey has<br />
also been the location for all british coronations sin<strong>ce</strong><br />
1066.<br />
following the april 29th wedding <strong>ce</strong>remony, the<br />
carriage pro<strong>ce</strong>ssion will then follow a route from westminster<br />
abbey to Parliament square, whitehall, horse<br />
guards Parade and the Mall before ending at<br />
buckingham Pala<strong>ce</strong>. large screens will also be erected<br />
in trafalgar square & hyde Park to <strong>vi</strong>ew the live event.<br />
Visit www.<strong>vi</strong>ewlondon.co.uk for an exhaustive guide to<br />
the wedding and much more…<br />
Finnair, British Airways & easyjet fly from Helsinki<br />
Airport to London Heathrow / Gatwick daily.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
31
HelsInKI<br />
aIrporT’s<br />
neW eleCTronIC<br />
aIr TraFFIC<br />
ConTrol sYsTeM<br />
unIQuelY CoMBInes<br />
rouTe ClearanCes,<br />
perMIssIons To<br />
proCeed and<br />
sITuaTIonal snapsHoTs,<br />
THanKs To<br />
a surveIllanCe<br />
radar sYsTeM.<br />
32 V I A HELSINKI<br />
MAArIT SEELING PHOTO FINAVIA
Super Pen<br />
Repla<strong>ce</strong>s Paper<br />
estriP controls helsinki airPort’s air striPs<br />
Helsinki Airport’s air traffic control system is<br />
now one of the most up-to-date in the world,<br />
following a programme of modernisation this<br />
winter. An electronic flight strip system called<br />
(eSTrIP) allows the strips used for tracking<br />
aircraft to be controlled by touching a screen<br />
with a pen. The system repla<strong>ce</strong>s the old method<br />
based on paper flight progress strips.<br />
The electronic system makes air traffic control<br />
at the airport more effective and flexible. The<br />
eSTrIPs are an aid in controlling air traffic, taxi<br />
clearan<strong>ce</strong> and vehicle traffic.<br />
air traffic controller<br />
Sami Niemi was inter<strong>vi</strong>ewed<br />
for this article.<br />
sami was a member<br />
of the air traffic<br />
control modernisation<br />
team.<br />
Pilots always need permission from air traffic control<br />
before they can pro<strong>ce</strong>ed along a taxiway or runway.<br />
route clearan<strong>ce</strong>s can be sent from the eSTrIP system<br />
digitally straight to the flight deck of an aircraft. So by<br />
manoeuvring the electronic strips on a monitor screen<br />
and by writing notes in them, air traffic controllers can<br />
ensure, for example, that no two aeroplanes are on the<br />
runway at the same time.<br />
Airport vehicles are equipped with radio transmitters<br />
and Global Positioning Systems which pro<strong>vi</strong>de air traffic<br />
control with real-time updates on their movements. Air-<br />
field surveillan<strong>ce</strong> (surfa<strong>ce</strong> movement) radar also allows<br />
the eSTrIP system to be integrated with airfield light-<br />
ing control. In future it will be possible to control light-<br />
ing <strong>vi</strong>a the eSTrIP system automatically.<br />
The innovations are an attempt to re-<br />
spond to future growth in air traffic and<br />
to improve traffic safety. Several elec-<br />
tronic air traffic control development<br />
projects are underway around the world,<br />
though for the time being such highly<br />
automated systems as this are still rare.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
33
Eliel Saarinen was among the most famous<br />
European architects of his time, whose status<br />
in the foundation of American Art Deco<br />
and modernism is indisputable. Finnish-<br />
American Eero is generally regarded as one<br />
of American modernism’s leading figures.<br />
34 V I A HELSINKI<br />
TEXT MINNA KALAjoKI PHOTOS WIKIMEDIA<br />
Their architectural saga began in the Katajanokka<br />
district of Helsinki, with the Tallberg building,<br />
which Eliel Saarinen and his fellow students de-<br />
signed, while still only about twenty years old, in<br />
1898. It is still in superb condition. Many other Art Nouveau<br />
buildings in the neighbourhood are also the work of the Saarin-<br />
en, Gesellius & Lindgren firm of architects. Lucky indeed are<br />
the residents of such pla<strong>ce</strong>s.<br />
To end the story we could turn our eyes upwards to the top<br />
of the 38 storey CBS Building in Manhattan, New York, which<br />
remains as the last work designed by Eero Saarinen, the great<br />
name in American modernism.<br />
Between these two buildings on two continents unfolds the<br />
story of the Saarinen design family. Eliel was among the most<br />
famous European architects of his time, whose status in the<br />
foundation of American Art Deco and modernism is indis-<br />
putable. Finnish-American Eero is generally regarded as one<br />
of American modernism’s leading figures.<br />
How did the Saarinens end up in the United States? Hel-<br />
sinki at the turn of the 20th <strong>ce</strong>ntury was fascinating enough.
Dynasty<br />
of<br />
Design<br />
THe 630-FooT HIGH sTeel sT. louIs<br />
GaTeWaY arCH and THe poWerFullY<br />
naTIonal roManTIC naTIonal<br />
MuseuM In HelsInKI sHare a CoMMon<br />
anCesTrY. lITerallY. THeY are BoTH<br />
THe oFFsprInG oF THe exCepTIonallY<br />
CreaTIve and GIFTed saarInen FaMIlY.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
35
anYone WHo Has leFT neW YorK’s JFK aIrporT Has surelY<br />
noTICed THe TWa TerMInal, lIKe a BIrd TaKInG FlIGHT.<br />
IT Was desIGned BY eero saarInen.<br />
Nationalism was thri<strong>vi</strong>ng, independen<strong>ce</strong> was at the door,<br />
and in Finland alone there were plenty of opportunities for<br />
designers. Key to their triumph in America was a Chicago-<br />
based newspaper, but we’ll come back to that.<br />
Eliel was the well-mannered son of a <strong>vi</strong>car and always<br />
dressed impeccably. He worked long hours at the firm of ar-<br />
chitects established by himself and two fellow students, who<br />
had just won a commission to design Finland’s pa<strong>vi</strong>lion at<br />
the 1900 World Fair in Paris.<br />
And what a pa<strong>vi</strong>lion it was! They were bursting to show<br />
their worth and this talented trio of young men worked on<br />
the national romantic structure day and night. The castle-<br />
like edifi<strong>ce</strong>, decorated with splendid works of art, was wide-<br />
ly hailed in the European press.<br />
After Paris, contracts for work and suc<strong>ce</strong>ss in architectural<br />
competitions poured in, with several residential buildings in<br />
Helsinki, the National Museum of Finland, the Helsinki rail-<br />
way station... and as if there wasn’t enough to do, the young<br />
architects decided to build a studio for themselves outside<br />
Helsinki at a pla<strong>ce</strong> called H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk.<br />
Offi<strong>ce</strong> for a new age. This became a collective work of art<br />
in tune with the spirit of the times. Many fittings and items<br />
of furniture were built in, and every ornament was specially<br />
designed for the premises. This thinking characterised the<br />
Saarinens’ working methods later too; they saw architecture<br />
as a collective whole comprising the landscape, the buildings,<br />
the furniture, fittings and ornaments.<br />
That newspaper which proved such a milestone in the<br />
Saarinen story was the Chicago Tribune, 7,000 kilometres<br />
away from Helsinki railway station. The biggest newspaper<br />
in the Midwest, it <strong>ce</strong>lebrated its 75th anniversary in 1922, and<br />
to honour it the paper organised a design competition for a<br />
Eliel Saarinen, 1873 rantasalmi, finland – 1950 bloomfield<br />
hills, Michigan, usa. one of the most famous finnish<br />
architects and designers; his styles included art nouveau,<br />
art deco and the first generation of modernism.<br />
Eero Saarinen, 1910 kirkkonummi, finland – 1961 ann<br />
arbor, Michigan, usa. finnish-american architect and<br />
designer; among the most famous exponents of the second<br />
generation of modernism in the united states.<br />
36 V I A HELSINKI<br />
new-age offi<strong>ce</strong> building. Naturally, this had to be a skyscraper.<br />
The judges had already selected the winners when Saari-<br />
nen’s proposal arrived at the eleventh hour, and it e<strong>vi</strong>dently<br />
stunned them. They are said to have written: “If the proposal<br />
that arrived at the last moment from Europe had not been so<br />
ex<strong>ce</strong>ptionally beautiful and had not demonstrated such bril-<br />
liant understanding of the requirements of an American offi<strong>ce</strong><br />
building, the outcome of the competition would have been<br />
consistent with the vote already made”. They took another<br />
vote and Saarinen’s proposal swept second prize.<br />
Even today, one wonders how an architect from a small,<br />
distant land suc<strong>ce</strong>eded in establishing the essen<strong>ce</strong> and tech-<br />
nical requirements of an American skyscraper. The design as<br />
such was not implemented but the much publicised competi-<br />
tion opened doors for Saarinen to the wider world.<br />
Project for the whole family. The talented Finnish archi-<br />
tect grabbed the attention of the renowned art patron George<br />
G. Booth, who encouraged Saarinen to move with his family<br />
to the United States in 1923. His assignment was to design<br />
Booth’s dream, Cranbrook Academy of Arts in Michigan.<br />
His son, Eero, at that time a teenager, had literally grown up<br />
under the drawing tables of the H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk studio. We shall<br />
hear more from him later.<br />
Over the years, the Saarinen family of designers, as they<br />
had become known, de<strong>vi</strong>sed a complex of dozens of build-<br />
ings. Eliel handled the buildings, Eero charted the details of<br />
their furniture and fittings, Eliel’s daughter Pipsan added<br />
decorative paintings to their <strong>ce</strong>ilings and his wife Loja over-<br />
saw the textile design. The interiors, of which there are many,<br />
are still fine examples of Art Deco.<br />
Saarinen also worked as a director of education and at-<br />
tracted renowned European designers and artists to Cran-<br />
brook. The influen<strong>ce</strong> can still be seen in the Academy of Art<br />
to this day.<br />
Eero Saarinen graduated as an architect from Yale and<br />
started work in his father’s offi<strong>ce</strong> in 1938 after a few years<br />
spent in Europe. As a result of seamless collaboration, the<br />
Kleinhans Music Hall (Buffalo, N.Y.) and the First Chris-<br />
tian Church (Columbus, Indiana), among other buildings,<br />
came into being.
Great arc of modernism. Eero’s personal breakthrough<br />
was <strong>vi</strong>ctory in 1948 in the design contest for a memorial to<br />
President Jefferson and westward expansion. This was the<br />
first time father and son competed with their own proposals.<br />
The reinfor<strong>ce</strong>d concrete Gateway Arch in St. Louis (Miss.),<br />
is ingenious in its simplicity, and many regard it to be Eero’s<br />
most impressive work.<br />
The General Motors Technical Center (Warren, Michigan)<br />
became the Saarinen offi<strong>ce</strong>’s main assignment, for which Ee-<br />
ro prepared the final blueprints. The vast business campus,<br />
incorporating materials borrowed from the car industry and<br />
a host of new ideas was inaugurated in 1956, after six years<br />
of building. This outstanding work of modern architecture<br />
was soon dubbed “the Versailles of Industry”.<br />
The Technical Center elevated Eero to become one of the<br />
highest-profile architects in the United States in the 1950s.<br />
Both press and public loved experimental and open-mind-<br />
ed modernism. This work, which was in tune with the times<br />
or even ahead of them, symbolised just what the Americans<br />
hungered for: progress, optimism, and industrial and com-<br />
mercial supremacy.<br />
There were indeed critics who sneered at the architect for<br />
his constant changes of style, but they did not discourage Ee-<br />
ro as he surveyed the long queues of clients at the door of Ee-<br />
ro Saarinen and Associates. After the attention from the GM<br />
coup, every self-respecting company wanted him in partic-<br />
ular to design their head offi<strong>ce</strong>. The master himself adorned<br />
magazine covers – including Time – with a fat cigar in the<br />
corner of his mouth.<br />
Art and commercialism also shook hands in that Coca-<br />
Cola advert where Father Christmas sits in a Womb chair de-<br />
signed by Eero Saarinen. Many of the pie<strong>ce</strong>s created by the<br />
younger Saarinen have become coveted furniture classics,<br />
his Tulip Chair being selected for the permanent collection<br />
of The Museum on Modern Art (MoMA).<br />
The now de<strong>ce</strong>ased Eliel Saarinen had declared: “home is<br />
where the work is” and Eero continued the sentiment. Work<br />
and <strong>vi</strong>rtually no free time took on an unpre<strong>ce</strong>dented inten-<br />
sity. It is said that Eero was always drawing wherever he was,<br />
even on the edges of paper napkins in restaurants. He drew<br />
with both right and left hands with ease.<br />
Yet the prolific Eero was clearly not as naturally gifted as<br />
his father. While Eliel could sketch huge entities and design<br />
them to completion in one go – such as the Chicago Tribune<br />
Tower – Eero drafted hundreds of alternatives, and even then<br />
he might make changes during building.<br />
Shaping the future. Eero’s most impressive buildings are<br />
well known to air passengers. Anyone who has left New York’s<br />
JFK Airport has surely noted the TWA terminal resembling<br />
a bird taking flight. This now protected building still seems<br />
surprisingly modern. Dulles International Airport (Wash-<br />
ington D.C.) was also designed by Saarinen.<br />
The idea for the shape of the TWA terminal reputedly<br />
emerged when the architect examined the remains of his<br />
grapefruit at the breakfast table. Later he explained his design<br />
had tried to attain “the spirit of flight”. Typical of Saarinen,<br />
the terminal’s winged concrete arches and sculpted exteri-<br />
or emphasised the optimism of his time and the glamour of<br />
flying in those days.<br />
Tragic indeed that Eero was not around to see his most fa-<br />
mous works completed. He died when he was only 51 years<br />
old in 1961. The TWA terminal was completed the following<br />
year, the Gateway Arch in 1965. In fact all the works uncom-<br />
pleted at his death were eventually finished.<br />
Eero Saarinen is buried in Ann Arbor, Michigan, while<br />
Eliel’s ashes were scattered as he wished beneath the monu-<br />
mental pine trees at H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk. Could it be that these same<br />
soaring pines had inspired him to design the Chicago Trib-<br />
une Tower?<br />
among the referen<strong>ce</strong>s used for this account are timo tuomi’s book Eliel<br />
ja Eero Saarinen (ajatus kirjat, 2007).<br />
elIel saarInen FooTprInTs In HelsInKI<br />
KARTTA<br />
1. Tallberg building 1898<br />
2. The Pohjola Insuran<strong>ce</strong> Company building 1901<br />
3. H<strong>vi</strong>tträsk studio 1902<br />
4. olofsborg 1902<br />
5. Eol 1903<br />
6. National Museum of Finland 1905–1910<br />
7. Helsinki Central railway Station 1905–1914<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
37
M I L E S T o N E<br />
The Glamour of<br />
Football<br />
The UEFA Champions League qual-<br />
ifying round in 1998 pitted HJK<br />
against Yerevan with just two weeks’<br />
noti<strong>ce</strong>, and in many ways that trip<br />
to Armenia has stayed in my memory. There were no direct<br />
scheduled flights, and the tight calendar meant that in the end<br />
we had to organise a privately chartered plane from Tallinn,<br />
then used by Estonia’s President, Lennart Meri.<br />
You might have thought the aircraft would have met states-<br />
manlike standards but it turned out to be such a shabby pro-<br />
peller plane that Finnish airports refused it permission to<br />
land. So we began our journey to Yerevan by ferry across the<br />
Gulf of Finland to Estonia.<br />
The game was very important, but we didn’t really know<br />
what to expect, so we even took along our own food and<br />
drink. Although we travel almost a hundred days a year, this<br />
cramped, windowless aircraft was perhaps the scariest expe-<br />
rien<strong>ce</strong> we had ever had, and one of our players with a fear of<br />
flying had to be given a sleeping drug.<br />
At the end of the millennium Armenia might have been<br />
poor but they loved their football. FC Yerevan fans were pas-<br />
sionate and home team supporters soon laid siege to our ho-<br />
tel, yelling long into the night and hurling stones at the win-<br />
dows. I was still quite a young lad, unused to the threats of<br />
football fans.<br />
Even the local stadium was in danger of collapsing but<br />
the game went well for us. We won 0–3. This <strong>vi</strong>tal <strong>vi</strong>ctory in<br />
difficult circumstan<strong>ce</strong>s meant that HJK was the first Finn-<br />
ish team to qualify for the 1998–1999 Champions League.<br />
The return trip was as eventful as the journey out. Fanci-<br />
ful documentation charges delayed our departure, with our<br />
aircraft captain and an airport official finally striking a deal.<br />
38 V I A HELSINKI<br />
MAArIT SEELING PHOTO SUSA jUNNoLA<br />
But we had to wait for four hours in an aeroplane with no<br />
air-conditioning. As the temperature rose our shirts were the<br />
first to come off. By the time it had got to about 50 Celsius<br />
in the cabin we were all in our underpants. Our delay also<br />
ob<strong>vi</strong>ously meant that we missed our onward connections to<br />
Finland, and we had to spend part of the night at the airport.<br />
The Champions League rounds had gone well, which<br />
boosted our status as players. When I got home after that<br />
gruelling journey I was surprised to find messages on my<br />
answerphone from professional teams in Norway and Scot-<br />
land. In the end I opted for Norway’s Oslo team, Våleren-<br />
ga. Mikael Forssell was snapped up by Chelsea. Following<br />
Helsinki’s suc<strong>ce</strong>ss in the Champions League, six HJK play-<br />
ers went on to play abroad.<br />
The arduous trip welded us together as a team. After-<br />
wards I played with many who had been in the Finnish na-<br />
tional team. Our biggest strengths were definitely our keen<br />
spirit and close friendship. I learnt then that, whatever the<br />
conditions, on the pitch you must focus only on the game.<br />
AKi RiiHiLAHTi<br />
aki riihilahti (b.1974) is a finnish midfielder who<br />
has carved an international career in football. he<br />
started with hJk (helsinki football club), and went<br />
on to play for Vålerenga, crystal Pala<strong>ce</strong>, kaisers-<br />
lautern and djurgården. the highlight of his career<br />
in england was when crystal Pala<strong>ce</strong> climbed to<br />
the Premier league for the 2004–2005 season.<br />
riihilahti has been a regular with the finnish<br />
national team and played in several world cup<br />
and european championship qualifiers. he has<br />
played a total of 69 caps, scoring 11 goals.
M o M E N T S<br />
aT THe end oF THe MIllennIuM, arMenIa MIGHT Have Been poor<br />
BuT THeY loved THeIr FooTBall. THe loCal sTadIuM Was<br />
In danGer oF CollapsInG.<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
39
Semi-<br />
hidden!<br />
The iittala Piilo storage box keeps your<br />
knickknacks safe even when they are<br />
too beautiful to be hidden away completely.<br />
Illustrated is the turquoise-blue<br />
glass / oak 60 mm box (EUR 22.50),<br />
though these boxes are available in<br />
a wide range of sizes and colours.<br />
Stockmann<br />
GATES 26 AND 33<br />
CAPi AnD CAPi ELECTROniCS<br />
Capi has everything to make your holiday<br />
memorable: memory cards, camera ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories<br />
and, of course, cameras. Capi outlets also<br />
stock all the leading mobile phone brands and<br />
their ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories, mp3 players, <strong>vi</strong>deo cameras,<br />
Suunto and Polar wrist-top computers and<br />
GPS de<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>s. A big, new shop opened at gates<br />
27–28 in February.<br />
GaTes 12, 27–28 and lonG-Haul<br />
FlIGHTs<br />
l Fashion, Ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories and<br />
Bags<br />
ARG AiRPORT FASHiOn<br />
The pla<strong>ce</strong> to go for international brands for<br />
men and women. ARG stocks such world<br />
renowned names as Boss, Day, Gant, Guess and<br />
Eton. A big new shop has opened in the longhaul<br />
flights area.<br />
GaTes 13–14 and lonG-Haul FlIGHTs<br />
LUHTA SHOP AiRPORT<br />
Luhta embra<strong>ce</strong>s the sporty everyday look<br />
known as “street sport”. The Finnish brand is<br />
owned by L-Fashion Group Oy, a leading Nordic<br />
clothing company in business sin<strong>ce</strong> 1907.<br />
The shop will be closed at the end of February.<br />
A big, new Luhta Store will be open during the<br />
spring at Gate 30 with more casual and outdoor<br />
products and brands, e.g. Rukka, I<strong>ce</strong>peak,<br />
Ril`s and Your Fa<strong>ce</strong>.<br />
GaTe 30<br />
LUxbAG<br />
Luxurious Loewe, Marc Jacobs and Celine bags,<br />
apparel and ac<strong>ce</strong>ssories for the discriminating<br />
taste.<br />
GaTe 34–35<br />
MARiMEKKO<br />
Looking for a Finnish classic? Get the Olkalaukku<br />
bag designed by Ristomatti Ratia in<br />
1971. Jackie Kennedy, fashion icon and wife of<br />
President John F. Kennedy, made Marimekko<br />
dresses famous in the 60s.<br />
GaTes 26–27<br />
Mauri Kunnas’s The<br />
Canine Kalevala (EUR<br />
22.40) is a canine adaptation<br />
of the Finnish<br />
national epic, and it<br />
is also a classic in Finnish<br />
children’s literature.<br />
Stockmann<br />
AIRPORT MAP<br />
GATE 26<br />
Gates 35–38<br />
VIA SPA<br />
Gates 30–34<br />
Fina<strong>vi</strong>a offers a wireless internet connection free of charge at Helsinki Airport.<br />
Airport Website:<br />
www.helsinkiairport.fi<br />
www.helsinki-vantaa.fi<br />
Security Control<br />
Passport Control<br />
Flights to/from Europe<br />
Flights to/from Asia,<br />
USA, UK and Russia<br />
Via Helsinki Website:<br />
www.<strong>vi</strong>ahelsinki.com<br />
T2<br />
Transfer Desk<br />
Smoking area<br />
Shopping area<br />
Restaurants, Bars & Cafés<br />
Airport Lounges<br />
Currency exchange /<br />
Tax Free Refund<br />
Children’s Playrooms<br />
TO<br />
HELSINKI<br />
CHECK-IN AREA<br />
Gates 24–29<br />
CHECK-IN AREA<br />
TO<br />
HELSINKI<br />
TO<br />
HELSINKI<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
Gates 11–23<br />
T1<br />
41<br />
VIP<br />
CENTRE<br />
CONGRESS<br />
CENTRE<br />
Airport Information 24 h<br />
tel. +358 200 14636 (0,57 €/min + lnc)
In the old days they believed there<br />
was a gnome li<strong>vi</strong>ng in every household…<br />
This <strong>ce</strong>ramic<br />
gnome (from EUR 12) is the<br />
work of Finn Päi<strong>vi</strong> Wilander.<br />
Santa’s Gift and Toy store<br />
LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />
M-bOxi<br />
Match your wallet, your handbag and your<br />
mood! Orange will give you energy while coral<br />
green will soothe you. At M-Boxi you can always<br />
find elegant Longchamp and Tumi products.<br />
GaTes 26–27 and 33<br />
MOOMin SHOP<br />
Moomin and his friends look good on anything<br />
and anyone: the extensive product range is not<br />
just for the kids. A new and bigger shop opened<br />
this February.<br />
GaTes 26–27<br />
MULbERRy<br />
Leather handbags, wallets and belts for men and<br />
women. We also stock the Bayswater, Mulberry’s<br />
all time favourite hand bag style!<br />
GaTe 33<br />
STOCKMAnn SHOP<br />
Stockmann is the best known department store<br />
in Finland, and the company’s Helsinki Airport<br />
Stockmann shop carries a full range of the<br />
world’s top fashion labels – Boss, Furla, Burberry<br />
and more!<br />
GaTe 33<br />
The Suunto M5 watch (EUR<br />
139) is a dream for active people.<br />
The watch recommends exercise<br />
programmes and tells you<br />
if your training is correct and<br />
how long you will take to recover.<br />
There are different designs<br />
for men and women.<br />
Capi and Capi Electronics<br />
GATES 12, 27–28 AND LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />
TiE RACK<br />
Tie Rack can pro<strong>vi</strong>de you with everything you<br />
might have left at home: socks, belts, boxer<br />
shorts. The selection also includes ties, bags,<br />
sweaters and scarves – for yourself or for loved<br />
ones.<br />
GaTe 27<br />
l Gifts & Toys<br />
SAnTA’S GiFT AnD TOy STORE<br />
Santa’s Gift and Toy store has opened in the<br />
long-haul flights area. Gifts and toys from<br />
Santa’s own shop.<br />
lonG-Haul FlIGHTs<br />
l Gourmet and Sweets<br />
AiRPORT SHOP<br />
Perfumes, confectionery, cosmetics, gifts and<br />
Finnish gourmet products. The shop at gates<br />
26–27 will close in March (week 10). A new shop<br />
will open after the summer in a new location.<br />
GaTes 20 and 26–27<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
43
A good book is above all entertaining,<br />
thinks Ines, and she picks<br />
up Cecilia Ahern’s novel The Book<br />
of Tomorrow (EUR 11.50), which<br />
tells of the young Tamara’s path<br />
from riches to rags and new insights<br />
on life.<br />
reader’s<br />
GATE 14 AND LoNG-HAUL<br />
FLIGHTS<br />
When Ines decides to buy something,<br />
she believes in first impressions. She<br />
knows she has found what she’s looking<br />
for when she sees this Mulberry<br />
tweed, leather bag (from EUR 800).<br />
The bag is unusual in that it has a shoulder<br />
strap embroidered on one side.<br />
Mulberry Shop<br />
GATE 33<br />
What’s in Your Bag,<br />
INES DE LIGHT?<br />
When Ines arrives at the airport, she<br />
feasts on Vietnamese spring rolls (EUR<br />
3.50 each, EUR 11 for 3), which are available<br />
in three flavours: tofu-mushroom,<br />
salmon-avocado and goose-omelette.<br />
My City Helsinki<br />
GATE 35<br />
Wine & View<br />
GATE 28<br />
Ines enjoys shopping, and her holiday culminates<br />
in buying gifts. Her first purchase<br />
is always perfume – you can never<br />
have too much. This time she chooses<br />
Yves Saint Laurent’s luxurious new<br />
fragran<strong>ce</strong>, Belle D’Opium (EdP EUR<br />
62.80 / 50 ml, EUR 80.40 / 90 ml).<br />
Helsinki Airport Duty Free<br />
GATES 13, 22-26 AND LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />
Ines takes a shine to<br />
the Chopard Happy<br />
Sport watch (EUR 16,010):<br />
Some of its 41 diamonds<br />
adorn the red-gold edge of<br />
the dial and some move under<br />
the glass. The watch-strap is<br />
made of leather.<br />
Aseman Kello<br />
GATES 26–27 AND LoNG-HAUL<br />
FLIGHTS<br />
The reading experien<strong>ce</strong><br />
is topped off by<br />
Kultasuklaa’s handmade<br />
Finnish chocolates<br />
(EUR 19.90 / 250 g).<br />
Stockmann<br />
GATE 26<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
45
Restaurants and<br />
Cafés<br />
bAR DELiGHT<br />
Beverages from beer to champagne, not<br />
forgetting the classics and a choi<strong>ce</strong> of special<br />
coffees. Tapas and snacks. Soft drinks and small<br />
savouries to take away. Sockets for charging<br />
laptops and phones.<br />
GaTe 14<br />
CAFé ALVAR A<br />
Alvar Aalto (1898–1976) was a Finnish functionalist<br />
architect and designer. His most famous<br />
building is the Finlandia Hall in Helsinki. Café<br />
Alvar A at Helsinki Airport is named after Aalto<br />
and represents the best of Finland, in philosophy,<br />
design and food. Much of the cafe’s food<br />
is produ<strong>ce</strong>d locally by small and independent<br />
Finnish farmers.<br />
GaTe 24<br />
CAFé PiCniC<br />
Newly renovated Picnic is known for its<br />
baguettes, baked potatoes and special coffees.<br />
Salads, soft drinks and pastries are also<br />
available.<br />
Open 24/7<br />
TerMInal 2<br />
CAFé TUULi<br />
Café Tuuli is temporarily located at gate 27 in<br />
one of the busiest areas at Helsinki Airport.<br />
When time is tight, get it to go from Tuuli. But<br />
if you have time to kill, sit down and enjoy the<br />
café’s range of sweet and savoury delicacies<br />
and selection of refreshing drinks.<br />
GaTe 27<br />
CESAR’S PizzA & FOOD COURT<br />
Helsinki Airport staff know this breakfast, lunch<br />
and dinner spot well, it’s just downstairs from<br />
Departures Hall 2. Buffet with a wide range to<br />
choose from. Pizza and filled baguettes also<br />
available.<br />
TerMInal 2<br />
GO!CAFé<br />
The history of GO!Café is a bit like the Eiffel<br />
Tower’s. Both were intended as temporary<br />
structures but plans changed. And as the<br />
popularity of the GO!Café has increased, so<br />
have its selection and ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>. There are now<br />
two of these cafes at Helsinki Airport.<br />
Terminal 2 Go!Café offers a superb selection of<br />
take away food and you can also recharge your<br />
laptop computer. Newsagent goods are also<br />
available, including newspapers and magazines,<br />
paperbacks, playing cards and hygiene products.<br />
There is an Inno<strong>ce</strong>nt Smoothie Bar at the<br />
café ser<strong>vi</strong>ng easy flight snacks such as smoothies,<br />
coffee and pastries. The eSer<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> Bar operates<br />
in the GoCafé premises at Terminal 2.<br />
The GO!Café in Terminal 1 serves an ex<strong>ce</strong>llent<br />
soup and salad lunch with beverage. New terra<strong>ce</strong><br />
open, Go!Café in terminal 1.<br />
GaTe 19 and TerMInal 1<br />
COFFEE SPOOn<br />
The clock on the Stockmann building in <strong>ce</strong>ntral<br />
Helsinki is one of the city’s most popular meeting<br />
spots. At Helsinki Airport, Spoon plays<br />
a similar role. Sweet and savoury pastries,<br />
sandwiches and baguettes, fresh salads, special<br />
coffees, smoothies and i<strong>ce</strong>-cream – also to take<br />
away. P.S. The soup special for the day costs<br />
Gucci Guilty (EdT EUR 58.40 / 50 ml) is an<br />
opulent fragran<strong>ce</strong> for audacious women – for<br />
those who like to party and have no fear.<br />
Helsinki Airport Duty Free<br />
GATES 13, 22–26 AND LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />
only €4.70 and the salad special €5.70. New<br />
terra<strong>ce</strong> open.<br />
Open 24/7<br />
CHeCK-In area oF TerMInal 2<br />
MObiLE COFFEE UniT<br />
Fancy a coffee but no time to sit down? Grab<br />
a cup to go from one of the two mobile coffee<br />
units operating in both terminals during rush<br />
hours. Chewing gum, sweets and pastry of the<br />
day are also available.<br />
GaTe area, TerMInals 1 and 2<br />
My CiTy HELSinKi<br />
Feeling peckish and a little thirsty? Relief is at<br />
hand in this comprehensive, 400 seat restaurant.<br />
It has its own bar offering a wide range of cocktails.<br />
The soundscape for the bar was designed<br />
by DJ Slow.<br />
GaTe 35<br />
nEW CAFé<br />
A brand new café has opened at gate 28 next to<br />
the Wine & View wine bar. Sit down and enjoy<br />
the café’s range of sweet and savoury pastries<br />
and selection of refreshing <strong>vi</strong>tamin waters.<br />
GaTe 28<br />
PiCniC TAKE AWAy<br />
Lea<strong>vi</strong>ng the airport on an empty stomach? The<br />
Picnic Take Away will make sure you leave satisfied!<br />
Sandwiches, salads, foodstuff and fresh<br />
bread to go.<br />
TerMInal 2/arrIvals 2a<br />
FLy inn RESTAURAnT & DELi<br />
A new restaurant with a panoramic <strong>vi</strong>ew and an<br />
interior of natural materials. Enjoy a refreshing<br />
breakfast at the Deli or try the famous reindeer<br />
burger from the restaurant’s á la carte menu.<br />
GaTe 27<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
47
FinnAiR LOUnGE*<br />
The new lounge in the long-haul flight area<br />
has spa<strong>ce</strong> for 250 passengers to work or relax.<br />
There’s a buffet for the peckish and a wine<br />
bar with a high quality selection. You can also<br />
freshen up in a private shower room.<br />
GaTes 36–37<br />
* Lounges are open to business class passengers,<br />
Priority Pass or Airport Angel card<br />
holders as well as entitlement card holders flying<br />
with the following airlines: Aeroflot Russian<br />
Airlines, Air China, Air Fran<strong>ce</strong>, British Airways,<br />
Bulgaria Air, Czech Airlines CSA, Finnair,<br />
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Malev and Ukraine<br />
International Airlines. LOT Polish Airlines and<br />
Turkish Airlines business class will be given an<br />
in<strong>vi</strong>tation at check-in which will also entitle<br />
them to lounge ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>.<br />
l Spa<br />
FinnAiR SPA & SAUnAS<br />
An oasis in the middle of an airport, with<br />
almost 600 square metres to relax in. Plunge<br />
into the spa’s mineral water pool or let the<br />
rocks in the clear water of the wading pool<br />
massage your feet. Refresh yourself in one<br />
of four different saunas and pamper yourself<br />
with one of the treatments specially designed<br />
for air passengers. Ask for a combined Finnair<br />
Lounge and Spa ticket!<br />
GaTes 36–37<br />
l VIP Ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>s<br />
ViP CEnTRE/HELSinKi AiRPORT COn-<br />
GRESS<br />
More than a dozen meeting rooms for business<br />
travellers – and for more romantic occasions.<br />
Every few months, a happy couple exchanges<br />
marriage vows in the airport’s VIP facilities. Let<br />
the honeymoon begin!<br />
Contacts: Tel. +358 020 708 3117,<br />
http://www.helsinki-vantaa.fi/<strong>vi</strong>p<br />
TerMInal 2<br />
l ATMs<br />
You can get cash from the ten ATM machines<br />
in the terminal.<br />
l Car Hire<br />
Renting a car at the airport is a convenient<br />
way to travel: put your cases in the car and<br />
drive away! Advan<strong>ce</strong> booking over the Internet<br />
makes travelling even faster. Rental car parking<br />
is available in car park P3. The ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> desks<br />
for car rentals are in the corridor between<br />
terminals 1 and 2.<br />
AViS<br />
tel. +358 9 822 833<br />
bUDGET<br />
tel. +358 207 466 610<br />
EUROPCAR<br />
tel. +358 40 306 2800<br />
HERTz<br />
tel. +358 20 555 2100<br />
SixT<br />
tel. +358 200 111 222<br />
l Conferen<strong>ce</strong> Ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong>s<br />
Are you planning an international event in a<br />
quality en<strong>vi</strong>ronment? The facilities at Helsinki<br />
Airport can be adapted to meet the needs of<br />
large conferen<strong>ce</strong>s and small meetings alike.<br />
HELSinKi AiRPORT COnGRESS has nine<br />
flexible meeting rooms, the largest accommodating<br />
up to 140 people. The meeting rooms<br />
pro<strong>vi</strong>de modern audio<strong>vi</strong>sual equipment and<br />
BrAND PICK: oMEGA<br />
First Watch on the Moon<br />
The final letter of the Greek alphabet, omega Ω, symbolises the end point in<br />
western culture. We say “from alpha to omega”. But in the world of watches,<br />
it is more like the start of things. The swiss company omega has been leading<br />
development sin<strong>ce</strong> 1848 and was approved by nasa for its first manned flight to<br />
the Moon and for five others subsequently.<br />
aboard apollo 11 when it set off for the Moon on 16 July 1969 were flight<br />
commander Neil Armstrong, Michael Collins pilot of the Columbia flight module,<br />
and Edwin ‘Buzz’ Aldrin who piloted the eagle lunar module – and on his wrist<br />
was The omega speedmaster Chronograph. The whereabouts of this watch is<br />
unknown because it was stolen from its owner.<br />
omega has had plenty of highlights. The world’s <strong>ce</strong>lebrities have relied upon<br />
it, including john F. Kennedy, Prin<strong>ce</strong> William, George Clooney and Nicole Kidman,<br />
and at the vancouver Winter olympics last year it was the official timekeeper.<br />
The firm’s reputation as a pro<strong>vi</strong>der of timepie<strong>ce</strong>s that stand up to adventure<br />
has grown ever stronger sin<strong>ce</strong> the conquest of the Moon. The first choi<strong>ce</strong> of<br />
watch for divers was omega, and the omega seamaster has accompanied 007’s<br />
assignments sin<strong>ce</strong> 1995, when Pier<strong>ce</strong> brosnan became James Bond.<br />
omega’s renown as a pioneer is, of course, only figurative, but no other<br />
watchmaker has held as many records for accuracy. The company has come a<br />
long way sin<strong>ce</strong> the 23-year-old Louis brandt began to assemble pocket watches<br />
in la-Chaux-de-Fonds from parts produ<strong>ce</strong>d by local craftsmen.<br />
referen<strong>ce</strong>s: www.omegawatches.com,<br />
www.wikipedia.org<br />
Omega Seamaster<br />
Professional ,<br />
(EUR 2,610) is<br />
waterproof to<br />
a depth of 300<br />
metres.<br />
ASEMAN KELLo<br />
GATES 26–27 AND<br />
LoNG-HAUL FLIGHTS<br />
communications. A professional conferen<strong>ce</strong> assistant<br />
will help you with all the practicalities.<br />
tel. +358 207 629 732<br />
sales@sspfinland.fi<br />
TerMInal 2<br />
Three smaller rooms for meetings with 2–8<br />
participants.<br />
tel. +358 9 8277 3117<br />
<strong>vi</strong>p.helsinki-vantaa@fina<strong>vi</strong>a.fI<br />
TerMInal 2<br />
HiLTOn HELSinKi-VAnTAA AiRPORT<br />
tel. +358 9 73 220<br />
helsinkivantaa.airport@hilton.com<br />
nexT To TerMInal 2<br />
ViP PRESiDEnT TERMinAL is ideal for large<br />
groups and state <strong>vi</strong>sits. Weddings and other<br />
private events can also be organised here. The<br />
facilities readily accommodate 10–100 guests.<br />
Visitors have ac<strong>ce</strong>ss to two conferen<strong>ce</strong> rooms<br />
and a lounge as well as a festive lobby plus a<br />
separate press room.<br />
tel. +358 9 8277 3117<br />
<strong>vi</strong>p.helsinki-vantaa@fina<strong>vi</strong>a.fI<br />
LiiKELEnTOTiE 10<br />
V I A HELSINKI<br />
49
BOSS<br />
ORANGE<br />
BOSS ORANGE<br />
For Him<br />
EAU DE TOILETTE<br />
60 ml<br />
43,20 €<br />
BUY 3<br />
PAY 2<br />
PANDA<br />
LICORICE BIG BAGS:<br />
Licori<strong>ce</strong> Mix Original 450 g,<br />
Licori<strong>ce</strong> Mix Choco 350 g,<br />
Duello 375 g, Soft&Fresh<br />
Licori<strong>ce</strong> 500 g and Soft&Fresh<br />
Licori<strong>ce</strong> Filled 450 g<br />
International passengers can make purchases in the gate area after<br />
security control. When travelling to a destination outside the EU, to Canary<br />
Islands or to Åland Islands you can buy alcoholic beverages and cigarettes<br />
duty-free.<br />
Domestic passengers can also make purchases at the shops located in the<br />
gate area ex<strong>ce</strong>pt for the tax free and duty free shops that sell alcohol or<br />
tobacco. For domestic passengers there are special shops that sell<br />
cosmetic and sweets at gates 26 and 20.<br />
Pri<strong>ce</strong>s valid until 31.4.2011.<br />
Enjoy your shopping!<br />
ESCADA<br />
TAJ SUNSET<br />
ESCADA TAJ SUNSET<br />
For Her<br />
EAU DE TOILETTE<br />
50 ml<br />
42,30 €<br />
BUY 3<br />
PAY 2<br />
FAZER<br />
CHOCOLATES:<br />
250 G:<br />
Milk chocolate,<br />
Dark chocolate,<br />
Hazelnut, Liquori<strong>ce</strong> dragées,<br />
Creamy toffee pie<strong>ce</strong>s,<br />
Roasted Salted Cashew Nuts<br />
EVERYONE IS WELCOME TO SHOP<br />
Arri<strong>vi</strong>ng passengers can make purchases at the shops located in the gate<br />
area ex<strong>ce</strong>pt for the tax free and duty free shops that sell alcohol or<br />
tobacco. The shops located in the baggage claim areas at the International<br />
Terminal can also be used by arri<strong>vi</strong>ng passengers.<br />
All passengers and people meeting and seeing them off can use the shops<br />
and ser<strong>vi</strong><strong>ce</strong> desks located in the areas before security control.
Already 11 routes<br />
from and to Helsinki!<br />
Oslo<br />
from<br />
38€<br />
one way<br />
All pri<strong>ce</strong>s include taxes.<br />
Oulu<br />
36€<br />
from one way<br />
Rovaniemi<br />
36€<br />
from one way<br />
Stockholm<br />
37€<br />
from one way<br />
Copenhagen<br />
37€<br />
from one way<br />
London<br />
37€<br />
from one way<br />
Ni<strong>ce</strong><br />
70€<br />
from one way<br />
Split<br />
70€<br />
from one way<br />
Rome<br />
from<br />
70€<br />
one way<br />
Bar<strong>ce</strong>lona<br />
70€<br />
from one way<br />
Alicante<br />
70€<br />
from one way<br />
Malaga<br />
from<br />
70€<br />
one way<br />
Hania<br />
70€<br />
from one way