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of noodle soups, potatoes and toasted flour. “Chow-chow”<br />

packet noodles, cooked up as a spicy soup snack, are ubiquitous.<br />

Vegetarians will feel at home in <strong>Nepal</strong>, since meat<br />

is considered a luxury. Tourist menus invariably include<br />

veggie items.<br />

vegetables and ginger, steamed, and served with hot<br />

tomato salsa and a bowl of broth. Fried momo are called<br />

kothe. Shyaphagle, made from the same ingredients, are<br />

Tibetan-style pasties. Tibetan cuisine is also full of hearty<br />

soups called thukpa or thenthuk, consisting of noodles,<br />

meat and vegetables in broth. For a group feast, try the<br />

huge gyakok (chicken, pork, prawns, fish, tofu, eggs and<br />

vegetables), which gets its name from the brass container<br />

Local <strong>Nepal</strong>i diners (bhojanalayas or, confusingly enough,<br />

“hotels”) are traditionally humble affairs, offering a limited<br />

choice of dishes or just daal bhaat. Menus don’t exist,<br />

but the food will normally be on display or cooking in<br />

full view, so all you have to do is point. On the highways<br />

they’re bustlingly public and spill outdoors in an effort to<br />

win business.<br />

Teahouses (chiyapasal) really only sell tea and basic<br />

snacks, while the simple taverns (bhatti) of the Kathmandu<br />

Valley and the western hills put the emphasis on<br />

alcoholic drinks and meaty snacks, but may serve <strong>Nepal</strong>i<br />

meals too. Trailside, both chiyapasal and bhatti are typically<br />

modest operations run out of family kitchens. Sweet<br />

shops (mithaipasal or misthan bhandar) are intended to<br />

fill the gap between the traditional mid-morning and early<br />

evening meals; besides sweets and tea, they also do South<br />

Indian and <strong>Nepal</strong>i savoury snacks. Street vendors sell<br />

fruit, nuts, roasted corn, and various fried specialities. As<br />

often as not, food will come to you when you’re travelling<br />

– at every bus stop, vendors will clamber aboard or hawk<br />

their wares through the window.<br />

Momo, arguably the most famous and popular of Tibetan<br />

dishes, are available throughout upland <strong>Nepal</strong>. Similar<br />

to dim sum, the half-moon-shapes are filled with meat,<br />

it’s served in. In trekking lodges you’ll encounter pitta-like<br />

Tibetan or “Gurung” bread.<br />

The average peasant seldom eats any of the above. Potatoes<br />

are common in the high country, and Sherpa potatoes<br />

– usually eaten boiled in their skins with a dab of salt<br />

and chilli paste – are justly famous for their nutty sweetness.<br />

Tsampa (toasted barley flour) is another staple, and<br />

often, especially for trekkers, mixed with milk or tea to<br />

make a porridge paste.<br />

Road Food<br />

Common food on the road includes pakora (vegetables<br />

dipped in chickpea-flour batter, deep fried), and bean<br />

curry served with puris or roti. Another possibility is dahi<br />

chiura, a mixture of yoghurt and beaten rice. If you’re<br />

in a hurry, you can grab a handful of samosas (curried<br />

vegetables in fried pastry triangles), baara (fried lentil patties),<br />

or other titbits on a leaf plate. In the hill towns and<br />

around Kathmandu, huge aluminium steamers placed by<br />

the restaurant door advertise momo. If nothing else, there<br />

will always be packet noodles (“chow-chow”).<br />

Source: (<strong>Nepal</strong> Tourism Board)

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