Chelsea Insider Low - Cadogan

ChelseainsiderThe best ofChelsea by thepeople who know2012

22 | WHAT TO DO | MusicChelsea insiderIntroduction 4HistoryChelsea 5Sir Hans Sloane 9The Cadogans 10Streets and sightsStreet by street guide 12WalksTours on foot 25Things to doArt galleries 31Museums 34Film and theatre 35Music 37Green spaces 39Sport 40Spas 42Events 43Hotels andapartmentsPlaces to stay 48Food and drinkRestaurants 52Cafés 60Food stores 61Pubs, bars andnightlife 62ShoppingSpotlight on shops 68Sloane directory 73UsefulinformationNeed to know 82Map 84

4 | INTRODUCTION |IntroductionWhether you’re a visitor to London or alifelong resident in the capital, Chelseahas something to offer. With grandbuildings, a fascinating history and someof the best shops, sights and restaurants,there’s always something to discover.In this guide, we look at Chelsea’sevolution, from early settlements to thebustling centre of culture and retail wesee today. We meet some of its mostsignificant figures and explain how thefocus shifted away from the River Thamesand towards the Kings Road. We tell itsstory, from Henry VIII and Sir ThomasMore to the Swinging Sixties to life inChelsea today. And we get top tips andfavourite places from locals who know thearea inside-out – our Insiders.Chelsea is still evolving today. And so,while we never intended to make thisguide comprehensive – indeed, it’simpossible to do so when writing aboutbusy, living, thriving place because itdoesn’t stand still – we hope that it willgive you an insight into how you couldspend your time and enjoy the best ofwhat Chelsea has to offer.Explore the past and present with ourwalking guide, sample a restaurant, listento some live music or find a hidden gemthat only people who really know the areawould be able to tell you about.That’s what this guide is about. We hopeyou find it useful and that it helps youdiscover the secrets and successes ofthis wonderful place for yourself.

5 | HISTORY | A short history of ChelseaA short history of ChelseaHistorySloane SquareA powerful pastFrom humble origins as a tiny Thamessidefishing village, Chelsea grew to bea religious centre, an artistic hotspot,and a favourite of the wealthy. Wereveal the area’s fascinating history,from the Romans to Roman AbramovichChelsea has had a rich and interestinghistory, and this is a brief overview ofhow it developed into today’s wealthy,bustling area. For more information onspecific streets, places and people, seeStreets and SightsEarly historyThere is some limited archaeologicalevidence of prehistoric activity inChelsea. Flint and pottery fragmentshave been unearthed near ChelseaCommon and Chelsea Old Church.A Neolithic flint sickle, an oak club or‘beater’ dated to 3540-3360 BC, andpart of a human skull were all found onthe Thames foreshore.‘Chelsea Man’, as the prehistoricowner of the skull fragment is nowknown, died between 1750-1610 BCand had been subjected to trepanation,a surgical procedure in which a hole isdrilled or scraped through the patient’sskull in order to relieve afflictions suchas migraine, or in an attempt to treatmental illness. The procedure was notuncommon and would have beenperformed on a conscious patient,without anaesthetic, with a piece offlint for a surgical tool. A form of theprocedure is still practised today to treatpatients suffering a build-up of bloodaround their brains.‘Chelsea Man’ survived this ordeal, aswe can tell by the bone regrowth aroundthe edges of the hole in the skull, only todie six months later.Roman timesLittle is known about Chelsea in theRoman period, although pits, ditches,and a timber structure found under theChelsea Old Church churchyard indicateRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s Servicethat there may have been a small ruralsettlement there.A few metres away, at 6-16 OldChurch Street, a pit and a shallow ditchcontaining third century AD Romanpottery suggests that the area wasoccupied in some way at the time. It isalso possible that Julius Caesar used thelow waters in the Chelsea section of theThames at the time cross itduring his invasion of Britain in 54 BC.Anglo-Saxon timesA fishing village emerged around the siteof Chelsea Old Church during the Anglo-Saxon period, and two large mid-Saxonfish traps, originally thought to have beenwharves, have been uncovered on theThames foreshore, giving an insight intoThe Old Chelsea Bun Houseby Walter Greaves

6 | HISTORY | A short history of ChelseaRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s Servicethe lives of the residents in that period.The first mention of Chelsea – ‘cealchythe’– appears in the Anglo-SaxonChronicle’s AD 785 record as the placewhere a ‘litigious synod was holden’. TheOld English word ‘cealc’ can meanchalk, stone or lime, and ‘hythe’ translatesas ‘landing place’. It is possible thatChelsea was a stopping point for boatsshipping building materials or lime forfertiliser.Whatever its original purpose, Chelseabecame a place of religious and politicalsignificance. Between AD 785 andAD 816, at least ten religious synodswere held in the area. It is thought thatthe Mercian kings, who largely ruled whatis now the Midlands, kept a residenceat Chelsea to in order to deal with theChurch and London. The etymology ofthe nearby hamlet of Kensal – derivedfrom cyning holt meaning ‘king’s wood’– also suggests there was a strongroyal link.The political importance of Chelseawas still in evidence at the end of theThe synod of AD785 as playedout at the Chelsea Pageantin 1908ninth century. Viking attacks had plaguedLondon and the surrounding area fromAD 830 onwards. According to theAnglo-Saxon Chronicle, there was “greatslaughter” in London in AD 839 – 850Viking ships entered the mouth of theThames in AD 851 and stormed Londonand Canterbury, and in AD 871 a “largeheathen army”, which had been inEngland since AD 866, captured Londonand wintered there.By AD 898, King Alfred the Great hadsuppressed the threat from Denmark witha series of victories, concluding the‘Danish War’. He then met with religiousand political leaders at Chelsea to discussthe refounding of London.Norman conquestIn AD 1086, 20 years after the Normanconquest which brought Anglo-Saxondominance in England to an end, theDomesday Book recorded that theManor of Chelsea – covering 780 acres ofmeadow, pastureland and woodland, andwith 60 pigs – was valued at nine pounds.In the centuries after the Normanconquest, Chelsea remained largelyunchanged. The Anglo-Saxon settlementby the river continued to be the focus ofthe area, and was surrounded by fields ofarable land. The Thames retained itsimportance to the village. Travelling byriver was faster and safer than by land,and Chelsea’s position on its banks, twoand a half miles upriver from Westminster,meant that a boat owner could travelthere quickly. This convenience became adraw for the rich and powerful, and fromthe 13th century onwards, court officials,nobles and kings are said to have usedthe area.The Black DeathEven though the Manor of Chelseawas quite secluded during this period,its proximity to London meant that it wasvulnerable to the plague. In the mid-14thHenry VIII andSir Thomas MoreBy the time Pepys was setting off on hisunfortunate journey, Chelsea had alreadyundergone major transformation.In the 16th century, great mansions beganto appear and a significant royal endorsementboosted the appeal of the village and itssurrounding area.Henry VIII apparently wanted to have a nurseryfor his children at Chelsea and was said to havewanted to live there following visits to the houseof his friend and advisor, Thomas More. WhenMore was executed in 1535, the king receivedMore’s house. He neglected it – his only recordedvisit was in 1538, when he stayed for two days.Henry had built his own manor house on thesite of today’s Cheyne Walk in 1536, wherePrincess Elizabeth, Lady Jane Grey and Anne ofCleves lived at various times. Sir Hans Sloanebought the Manor of Chelsea in 1712 (see SirHans Sloane).The royal connection meant that Crown propertiesin Chelsea could be used as residences formembers of the royal family and other notables.Henry granted a French Ambassador residenceat the house of the late Sir Thomas More for thesummer of 1538 so that he could take refugefrom the plague, and Thomas Cromwell, theking’s closest minister, was in Chelsea at thesame time.While the wealthy continued to be drawnto Chelsea, more humble settlers came too.By the mid-17th century, housing demand waspredominantly for smaller dwellings, rather thanimpressive mansions.The statue of Sir Thomas Moreoutside Chelsea Old Churchcentury, the Black Death ravaged London,and the manor of Chelsea along with it.Richard de Heyle, who inhabited themanor house at this time, saw his threechildren taken by the plague and, destitute,was forced to lease his property toWestminster Abbey for the duration ofhis life.Later, in 1630, the plague was stilla threat to the area, as can be seen ina draft proclamation warning residentsnot to entertain strangers and risk thespread of the pestilence. On April 9,1666, Samuel Pepys, “thinking to havebeen merry at Chelsey,” found himselfand his companions confronted with ahouse that was shut due to the plague,and turned back to Kensington “withgreat affright”.Growth and changeAnother flashpoint in the developmentof Chelsea came in the late 1600s.Charles II authorised the construction ofthe Royal Hospital on December 22,1681. It was designed by Sir ChristopherWren and admitted its first ‘in-pensioners’in 1692.The Royal Hospital brought with it asudden increase in interest in the area,and construction rapidly increased. Thepopulation rose along with the newbuildings – baptisms in the parish morethan doubled between the 1680s andthe 1730s. This boom came alongsidechange in the social make-up of the area.By the early 18th century, the aristocraticpresence in Chelsea was declining.While Chelsea could be called a ‘town ofpalaces’ in 1724, many of these greatseats and houses were being let asboarding schools, and MPs and governmentofficials rather than aristocrats wereoccupying the new developmentsaround the Royal Hospital.Chelsea EmbankmentThe construction of the Chelsea

7 | HISTORY | A short history of ChelseaA place of pleasureIn the 18th century, Chelsea reached itsheyday as a riverside pleasure resort.There were many inns and coffeehouses, the most popular of which weredotted along the riverbank. A painting byWalter Greaves of the Cross Keys pubshows its proximity to the river. DonSaltero’s Museum and Coffee House,famous for its ‘good conversation’,would have looked much the same.In 1742, Ranelagh Gardens opened tothe public to much fanfare. The politicianand author Horace Walpole commentedon the gardens' centrepiece, a rotundaamphitheatre with a circumference of555 feet and a diameter of 150 feet:'Everybody that loves eating, drinking,staring or crowding, is admitted fortwelvepence.’ Concerts were playedthere – the child prodigy, Mozart,performed there in 1764 – and therewere fireworks, dancing and balloonascents. Visitors could wander thegardens while the garden-orchestraprovided a soundtrack.By the 1770s, Ranelagh was losing itsallure, and despite attempts to revive it,the gardens were eventually closed tothe public in 1826. Although many innsand coffee houses remained, and theThe ‘Chinese House’ and theRotunda in Ranelagh Gardens,by Thomas Bowles, 1754Royal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceA tournment at Cremorne Gardensfamous Bun House was said to havesold 250,000 buns on Good Friday1829, by 1833 a journalist could writethat Chelsea ‘though now proverbial forits dullness, was formerly a place ofgreat gaiety’.The opening of Cremorne Gardens tothe public in 1846 signalled a revival forthe resort, and the crowds began toreturn to see pony-riding monkeys or toparachute from hot air balloons. ButCremorne gained a reputation as a placewhere reputable women would not travelalone and men went looking for fistfights,and it never reached the heights offashion that Ranelagh had.Embankment in 1874 signalled theend for the riverside resort. It was animportant protection against flooding andimproved sanitation, but the embankmentalso contributed to the steadynorthward shift of the village, away fromthe Old Church Street area where it hadbegun as an Anglo-Saxon fishing village.A new parish church, St. Luke’s, hadalready been built on Sydney Streetin 1824 and King’s Road, which hadofficially become a public road in 1830– it had previously been ‘the King’sPrivate Road’ – became the new heartof Chelsea. The construction of theembankment effectively closed the mostfamous of Chelsea’s riverside inns andcoffee houses, and ruined the vistasbeloved of artists such as Turner and theGreaves brothers.At the heart of artIn the second half of the 19th century,Chelsea gained a reputation as anartistic and bohemian haven. While inprevious years artists had been drawnto Chelsea for its picturesque housesand riverside views, its proximity to theWest End and the affordability of spacesfor artists' studios attracted their descendants,particularly after the constructionof the Chelsea Embankment.Pre-Raphaelite artists, such as DanteGabriel Rossetti, with his extensivemenagerie of exotic animals, helpedestablish Chelsea’s bohemian culture.Artistic Chelsea was a theme thatcontinued to run into the 20th century.Mass-produced artists’ studios, whichstarted to appear in the area towards theend of the 19th century and continuedbeing built at the start of the 20th century,allowed a more diverse range of artistson a wider range of incomes to take upresidence in the area.By 1921 a census showed thatChelsea had the highest concentrationof male artists in London.Working class at the World’sEndMany Chelsea residents during the firsthalf of the 20th century, however, wereneither artists nor wealthy pleasure-seekers,but the lower and working classes,who lived in poverty in decaying properties.Many of these residents lived in theWorld’s End area, and it was not untilafter the Second World War – and theBlitz – that the housing situation therebegan to improve.Cheyne Walk, by T H Shepherd, 1850The BlitzBecause of its central location, Chelseadid not escape Luftwaffe bombardmentsduring the war. The worst attack happenedin 1944, when a wing of theGuinness Estate in west Chelsea wasdestroyed, leaving 86 dead and 111injured.Sloane Square Underground stationwas destroyed in November 1940, andfive months later Chelsea Old Churchwas also razed to the ground.But on the whole, Chelsea was leftrelatively unscathed by German bombsand was described as ‘neither blitzed norblighted’.

8 | HISTORY | A short history of ChelseaQuant and the Swinging SixtiesChelsea’s bohemian heritage returned infull force after the Second World Warwhen King’s Road became the epicentreof the pop-culture revolution.Fashion icon Mary Quant had openedBazaar, London’s first boutique, at138a King’s Road in November 1955.The operation had to be run on a shoestringat first, with Quant making all ofher clothes in her studio apartment usingfabric bought at retail price from Harrods.She railed against the “unattractive,alarming and terrifying, stilted, confinedand ugly” appearance of adults anddeveloped instead the mini-skirt andhot-pants.Along the road, at Sloane Square,the Royal Court Theatre opened JohnOsborne’s Look Back in Anger in 1956,changing the face of theatre and launchingthe idea of the ‘angry young man’ –used by the media to describe youngBritish writers, often from working ormiddle-class backgrounds, who weredisillusioned with society. It was a hugecontrast to the more traditional, genteelplays that had come before it.Another hot topic in the media wasthe group that became known as the‘Chelsea set’ – a crowd of youngsocialites headed by Quant and herhusband Alexander Plunket Greene,including wealthy pleasure-seekers andthe talented working class alike. Duringthe day they met at Bazaar, Kiki Byrne’sor one of the of coffee houses, andduring the evening they convened at theMarkham Arms or the Pheasantry beforemoving on to the house party of choice.The young and the beautiful flocked toparade themselves on King’s Roadthroughout the 1960s as the day-to-dayshops disappeared and boutiques,restaurants and cafes moved in toreplace them.With the now slightly older generationof ‘rebels with causes’, the Quants andRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceOsbornes, forming the heart of the new‘in’ scene, girls wearing mini-skirts andbell-bottom trousers mixed with touristsand the media as they all descended onChelsea. The aim was to be seen, andKing’s Road became a world-famouscatwalk.Hedonism was the order of the day. In1966, an article in Time magazine likenedLondon to the cheerful, violent, lusty townof William Shakespeare.When the Chelsea Drugstore – anAmerican-style complex with space todrink, eat, dance and shop – opened inThe Chelsea Drugstore1968, it soon became one of the King’sRoad’s top venues. It appeared in Kubrik’sA Clockwork Orange as the ‘MusikBootick’, and was referenced in theRolling Stones song You Can’t AlwaysGet What You Want. Pressure from localresidents forced the Drugstore to shutdown in 1971.The 1970s and punksIn the early 1970s, King’s Road was ajumble of boutiques, restaurants, cafés,delicatessens, antique shops and junkshops, where the young and eager wouldGranny Takes a Tripstill migrate to shock and be shocked.It was in this setting, in 1971, thatVivienne Westwood and MalcolmMcLaren opened the first incarnationof their infamous boutique, Let It Rock,and brought about the start of a newcounter-culture: the punk movement.Let It Rock reopened in 1974 with anew name and a new sign – the word‘SEX’ emblazoned above the shop frontin PVC. As an extension of this secondincarnation of the boutique, McLarentook on the management of a new band– the Sex Pistols. They started playinggigs in the autumn of 1975 and took astand against love and peace, drugs,flared jeans, long hair and beards, alongwith anything else to do with the 1960sideology. Instead, they wore rippedT-shirts, ripped jeans, safety pins, blackleather, rubber and piercings – a lookwhich was recreated, packaged and soldby Westwood and McLaren’s boutique,which would become the face of themovement.SEX became Seditionaries, andmoved its focus further towardsbondage, and the punk movementcontinued to thrive along King’s Road.The Sex Pistols, of course, weren’t theonly punk band associated with the areaand groups like Siouxsie and theThe RoyalBorough ofKensington andChelseaThe boroughs of Chelsea andKensington were amalgamated in1965 – despite the best efforts ofChelsea residents – when localgovernment boundaries wereredrawn and 32 new Londonboroughs were created.Banshees and Generation X carried onwhat the Sex Pistols had started.The punks’ brash lifestyles oftenlanded them in trouble. Weekends wouldsee violence erupt involving punks, Teds(Teddy Boys, who wore bootlace tiesand styled their hair into quiffs) andfootball hooligans, and in July 1977members of four separate punk bandswere involved in separate incidents overthe course of a few days.Sloane RangersBecause of their loudness, it’s easy tothink that Chelsea was completelyoverrun by punks in the 1970s and early1980s, but they were very much in theminority. The eastern fringes of Chelseahad long been a seat of more conservativewealth.The fact that, by the 1980s, the term‘Sloane Ranger’ had been coined torefer to young upper-class men andwomenshows just how embedded thewealthy were in Chelsea by that time.Property and gentrificationBehind these periods of youth counterculturerevolution, more conventionalforces were driving Chelsea.After the Second World War, a resurgencein the property market meant that

9 | HISTORY | Sir Hans Sloanemany Chelsea tenants were left facingeither hikes in their rent or eviction.This trend continued with otherfactors exacerbating the situation:the high proportion of space-hungryinstitutions in Chelsea such as theRoyal Hospital meant less room forhousing, and redevelopment led by thecouncil started targeting tenants fromhigher income groups.Sections of society that had longcalled Chelsea home, such as theartists, were gradually forced out of thearea. The cultural revolutions of the1960s and 1970s sped up this processthrough the fashionable appeal thatcame with them, and by the mid-1980sthe gentrification of Chelsea was in fullswing.Today, Chelsea still bears the marksof its rich cultural heritage: fashion, art,theatre, music and history combinetogether to create the diverse area wesee now.Chelsea’sfoundingfamiliesTwo names you see everywhere inChelsea, from street signs to pubs, areSloane and Cadogan – the families whohelped make the area what it is. And itall started with a medical genius whoinvented hot chocolate...Sir Hans SloaneSir Hans Sloane is one of the mostimportant figures in Chelsea’s past andhe is remembered in place namesthroughout the area, from Sloane Squareto Hans Town to the Botanist pub. Hewas a physician and philanthropist whoinvented drinking chocolate and gifted thenation such a vast collection of naturalspecimens, books, coins, manuscriptsand artefacts that the British Museumwas formed to house them.Chelsea Physic Gardenfeatures a statue ofSir Hans SloaneRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceBorn in Ireland in 1660, Sloane studiedbotany at the Chelsea Physic Gardenand chemistry at the Apothecaries’ Hall.He travelled around Europe to learnmore about medicine and botany, andpassed his Doctorate of Physic in 1683.He was friends with botanist John Rayand chemist Robert Boyle (known forBoyle’s Law).Sloane quickly became a rising starin the medical field, becoming a Fellowof the Royal Society in 1685 at the ageof 25 and a Fellow of the Royal Collegeof Physicians in 1687. He set off on avoyage to Jamaica as the 2nd Dukeof Albemarle’s physician and wroteextensive notes about the flora andfauna, local customs and other pointshe found interesting. He also startedcollecting samples of plants and animalswith a passion.Sloane invented a recipe for drinkingchocolate, mixing it with milk rather thanwater, after encountering cocoa inJamaica. It was originally sold by apothecariesas a beverage with health-givingproperties and by the 19th century, theCadbury Brothers were selling tins ofdrinking chocolate.Sloane returned to England in1689 and set up a medical practice inBloomsbury a few years later, which washugely successful. He married ElizabethRose, a widow, in 1695, and they hadtwo daughters – Sarah and Elizabeth.He was appointed the physician tothree different monarchs during his life:Queen Anne in 1696, George I in 1716and George II in 1727. He was knightedin 1716. Sloane became president ofthe College of Physicians in 1719 andsucceeded Sir Isaac Newton as presidentof the Royal Society in 1727. Hewas a socially-minded man and usedsome of the fortune he made providingmedical care to the rich to give freeservices to the poor.Collecting was an obsession Sloanepursued throughout his life, and hebought the Manor of Chelsea fromCharles Cheyne to house and exhibit hisgrowing collections in 1712. It also gavehim the freehold of the Chelsea PhysicGarden, which he supported by leasing itto the Society of Apothecaries in 1722for £5 a year in perpetuity on the conditionthat ‘it be forever kept up andmaintained as a physic garden’ andthat 50 plant specimens a year weredelivered to the Royal Society until 2,000pressed and mounted species had beenreceived. By 1795, the total had reached3,700. The peppercorn rent is still paidto Sloane’s heirs at the Cadogan Estateby the charity that runs the Chelsea

10 | HISTORY | The CadogansThe 8th Earl CadoganPhysic Garden today.When Sloane retired from hismedical practice in 1742, he livedin the Chelsea house that hadbeen built for Henry VIII until hisdeath in 1753 at the age of 92. Hewas buried at Chelsea Old Church.In his will, Sloane offered his vastcollection – more than 71,000 naturalhistory specimens, books, coins andmedals – to the nation for a fraction of itsestimated value. He wanted the collectionto stay together in London and beused and enjoyed for learning, so hewould probably be delighted that it wasacquired by Parliament and used tofound the British Museum and later theNatural History Museum.When he died, Sloane’s property wasdivided between his two daughters ashis wife, Elizabeth, had died 29 yearspreviously, in 1724.The CadogansThe name Cadogan comes from theGaelic word ‘Cadwgan’, which means‘battle-keenness’, and the family cantrace its history back to Wales.The spelling was anglicised in the15th century.The foundations for the CadoganEstate in Chelsea were laid when CharlesCadogan married Elizabeth Sloane, theyounger daughter of Sir Hans Sloane, in1717. Charles became the 2nd BaronOakley when his older brother Williamdied in 1726 and passed the title to him.When Sloane died in 1753, his Chelseaproperty was left to Elizabeth and hersister, Sarah Stanley. The Manor ofChelsea included 11 houses, 166 acresand a selection of tenements, whichwere split between the sisters.The 2nd Baron started negotiationswith Henry Holland, son-in-law ofLancelot ‘Capability’ Brown (whom the2nd Baron had contracted to landscapehis estate at Caversham Park, nearReading) for a lease on 90 acres of landthat would become Hans Town. Thedevelopment was postponed because ofthe death of the 2nd Baron and the warwith America, but thelease was granted byCharles Sloane Cadogan,the son of the 2nd Baron,in 1777 (see Hans Town in Sights andStreets).Charles Sloane was made ViscountChelsea and Earl Cadogan in 1800because he had been a supporter ofPitt’s government, despite being a Whigpolitician. His grandfather, WilliamCadogan, had also held the title but thiswas a new creation, so Charles becamein effect the second 1st Earl Cadogan.He completed the agreement with HenryGeneral William Cadogan, the 1st Earl CadoganHolland and sold the Caversham estate.Holland created Sloane Street, HansPlace and Sloane Square, laying thefoundations for today’s Chelsea.In 1821, the whole of the Manor ofChelsea came under the ownership ofthe Cadogan family because they werethe closest surviving relatives to the heirsof Sarah Stanley, Sir Hans Sloane’s otherdaughter.The next stage of the CadoganEstate’s development was led by the 5thEarl Cadogan, George Henry Cadogan(1840-1915). He went to school with thePrince of Wales and became lifelongfriends with the future King Edward VII.The 5th Earl was Under Secretary of Warunder Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli,Under Secretary for the Colonies, LordPrivy Seal in Lord Salisbury’s cabinet andthe Viceroy of Ireland. He was also aChelsea councillor and its first Mayor.He commissioned William Young tobuild a new home for the family, andChelsea House was completed in 1874,close to where the Jumeirah CarltonTower stands today.As the leases on the buildings in HansTown came to an end, the Cadogan andHans Place Estate Co. pioneered the‘Pont Street Dutch’ style when it redevelopedthe area. Most of the estate wasredeveloped between 1877 and 1900.Holy Trinity Church was built with financialassistance from the 5th Earl.The 7th Earl was a military man, in thetradition of the family, and the last Mayorof Chelsea before it was incorporatedwith the Royal Borough of Kensington.He died in 1997, aged 83, when the titlepassed to Charles Gerald JohnCadogan, the current Earl Cadogan.Today the Earl Cadogan is LifePresident of Cadogan Group Limited, theholding company for the UK propertyinvestment business of his family, whichis owned by both charitable and familytrusts.The Cadogan family and Cadogan asa company are active in keeping Chelseamoving forward as well as preserving itspast, from building the shopping successstory Duke of York Square to providingfunding for a new organ at Holy TrinityChurch.

11 | INSIDER | Memories of the King’s RoadThe Insider’s Guideto memories of theKing’s Road1950sMy first memory of Chelsea was spendingtime in the family business, then arather Victorian drapery store sellingeverything from household linens,furnishing fabrics and haberdashery tohats, gloves and gowns.The staff, mostly women who weredressed in black with white collars andcuffs, were like family, and quite a fewreally were relatives.In 1953, aged six, I remember hangingout of the window of 52 King's Roadwatching the Queen and Prince Philipriding by our shop (then called SidneySmith) opposite the Duke of York’s HQ inan open-top car, with all the staff of localshops – among others – waving andcheering.1960s-1970sI hung out, occasionally dropped out andworked in various jobs including theshop at the weekends. The King’s Roadwas the catwalk for the fashion subculturesof youth – denim and leather,beads and embroidery, prints and PVC,all tailored to the mood of the moment.By Hazel Smith, member of acentury-old King's Road familybusiness, currently trading asthe King’s Road Sporting Club.Chair of the King’s Road TradeAssociation, ex-flower child,ex-policewoman, ex-professionalscuba diver, ex-maker of suedeand leather made-to-measureclothes and belts, internationalbusiness consultant and writerThere were mods and rockers, flowerchildren and hippies, skinheads andpunks.At one point, the pavement outside theDuke of York’s HQ was strewn withyouths with jagged paintwork on theirfaces, hair stuck up in coloured spikes,tattooed knuckles and wearing rippedclothes with silver studs – punks.One of them, Dave, whose frizzed-up‘afro’ hair was black on one side and redon the other, soon began to organisethem. If a tourist looked as if they weretrying to take a photo, he would go up tothem and suggest a pose (for which hegot paid). If any of his mates turned upwith a less-than-perfect look – a floppymohican, for instance – he would sendthem packing.On September 20, 1973, an IRA bombwent off at about 1am in the ground floorgarage of the Duke of York barracksacross the road from my flat. I wasreading in bed and was ‘sucked’ outonto the floor. I looked out of the window,saw what I thought were flames of myburning building being reflected in thewindows opposite, and evacuated myflatmates. We arrived in the street tofind that it was the now-windowlessbarracks burning, and there were someinjured people who needed help.About eight bombs went off in hearingdistance of my flat. The first causedgreat concern. By the eighth, we lookedat one another and shrugged our shoulders– if we had time to do that, then ithadn’t hit us!1974-1984During this period I worked as a SpecialConstable in Chelsea. On one occasion,I was involved in the arrest of about90 skinheads, who had been fightingoutside the Chelsea Potter pub.It was bedlam in Chelsea PoliceStation as we processed all thosearrested, and there were a few childrenin the melee. I heard one eight-year-oldtell another: “If you don’t leave me alone,I’ll tear your safety pin out.” The pin inquestion was through the nose.A few weeks later, one of the guys Ihad processed came into the shop andtried to chat me up. He kept saying heknew me and I kept on telling him hedidn’t. Finally, exasperated, I told himwhere we had met – he turned very paleand backed out of the shop.1970s-1990sThis was the era of the King’s Roadcustom car cruise. Every Saturday, theroad would be full of noise and smokeas the most fabulous customised cars,lovingly turned out in all their uniquedesigns and splashes of shining colours,would vroom and sometimes rattle andjump up and down the road. A sight tobehold and mostly missed – the traffictoday would mean they would stand inone place a lot longer.1990-presentI enjoy sitting in a café (formerly Blushes,now Caffé Concerto) people-watching.For most of the past two decades, it hasbeen with my friend Branko Bokun, theauthor, who I assisted with writing hislast three (of 30) books, notably hismemoirs, The Nomadic Humorist. Thepeople who stopped and talked to uscame from all walks of life and fromaround the world.I grew up and live in a street strewnwith familiar faces, from royals to musicand movie stars, entrepreneurs, politiciansand world leaders, much as it istoday. It is sometimes hard to rememberwhether one knows the person or justrecognises their face from the media.I have loved and love every bit of it, it’smy home and place of work. One thing isfor sure – when I want to see someoneor they want to meet me, I have noproblem suggesting they come to merather than I go to them. In the words ofmy lovely late mentor, Branko: “Why goanywhere when you have arrived?”

12 | STREETS & SIGHTS |Stellar streetsStreetsand sightsThere’s history around every corner inChelsea, and you can still stroll past thehouses where personalities including KarlMarx, Oscar Wilde and Mick Jagger lived,worked and – in Mick’s case – partied.Here we explore some of Chelsea’s notablestreets and sights. For a general overview,see History, page 5Royal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceAnderson Street• Karl Marx (1818-1883) lived with hiswife and children at 4 Anderson Street in1849, but was evicted for not paying therent and moved to the German Hotel inLeicester Square, and later Dean Streetin Soho.Beaufort Street• Sir Thomas More, advisor to Henry VIII,bought more than 20 acres of land onthe site of what is now Beaufort Street inthe 1520s and built a house there. Hewas the first of several prominent figuresto build large properties in the area,including Henry himself, who decidedChelsea would be a fitting place for hischildren to grow up (see Cheyne Walk).Left: Beaufort House. Below: Thomas MoreMore became Henry's Lord Chancellorin 1529. He initially supported the king’sannulment of his marriage to his first wife,Catherine of Aragon, but when Henrymoved to declare himself Supreme Headof the Church in England and dissolvethe monasteries, he resigned.More’s downfall came when herefused to take an oath swearingallegiance to the Act of Succession in1534, which named Henry’s daughterElizabeth (by Anne Boleyn) the legitimateheir to the throne and declared Mary,his daughter from his first marriage,illegitimate. It acknowledged the breakfrom the Pope’s authority over theChurch of England, which More refusedto accept.More was arrested, charged withhigh treason and was executed in 1535.Five years later, More's Chelsea homewas demolished and, in 1566, BeaufortStreet was built on part of the site. (SeeChelsea Old Church for more about SirThomas More).Bywater Street• John Le Carré’s fictional spy, GeorgeSmiley, lived at 9 Bywater Street, a littlecul-de-sac off the King’s Road, withhouses painted in lovely pastel colours.Cadogan Place• William Wilberforce (1759-1833), thepolitician, philanthropist and leader ofthe movement to abolish slavery, died at44 Cadogan Place.• Actress Dorothy Bland (1761-1816),also known as Mrs Jordan, lived at 30Cadogan Place. She never married, so‘Mrs Jordan’ was a name she took toseem more respectable on stage. Shebecame the mistress of William, Duke

13 | STREETS & SIGHTS |of Clarence, later King William IV, andhad at least ten illegitimate children withhim.Cadogan Square• Novelist Arnold Bennett (1867-1931),who wrote The Old Wives' Tale andAnna of the Five Towns, lived at75 Cadogan Square.Carlyle Square• Dame Sybil Thorndike (1882-1976),the famous actress and wife of actor andtheatre director Sir Lewis Casson, livedat 6 Carlyle Square. George BernardShaw wrote the play Saint Joan withher in mind for the title role, which sheperformed at theLondonpremiere in 1924. Theproduction was a huge success. Herremains are buried in WestminsterAbbey.Chelsea BarracksThe 12.8-acre Chelsea Barracks site wasa former British army barracks which hadbeen closed to the public for more than150 years. The Qatari Diar Real EstateInvestment Company, via its subsidiaryProject Blue Ltd, won planning permissionfrom Westminster City Council inJune 2011 to redevelop the land.The masterplan went through a 21-month consultation process and willsee the area turned into a residentialneighbourhood in a landscaped setting,featuring houses, apartments, localconvenience shops, restaurants, a multipurposecommunity and cultural centre,a public sports and fitness facility and amedical centre.The development will also feature fiveacres of new streets and gardens, andaround a third of the residential unitswill qualify as affordable housing. Thearchitects behind the successful plansare Dixon Jones, Squire and Partnersand Kim Wilkie Associates. Theplanning permission was granted twoyears after Prince Charles intervenedover a previous design, after whichthe planning application waswithdrawn.Chelsea Park Gardens• Artist and Royal Academypresident Sir Alfred Munnings(1878-1959), best known forhis paintings of horses and hiscriticism of Modernism, lived at96 Chelsea Park Gardens.However, the plaque to markthis fact is on the side of thebuilding, in Beaufort Street.Chelsea Reach and ChelseaYacht and Boat CompanyThe Chelsea Yacht and Boat Company,established in 1935, owns the residentialhouseboat moorings that stretch betweenBattersea Bridge and Lots Road, closeto Cheyne Walk. Celebrities includingLaurence Olivier and Nick Cave haveowned houseboats there and thecommunity is tight-knit and bohemian.The Chelsea Reach Residents’Association – which represents 59 boatowners, with high-profile membersRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceChelsea EmbankmentChelsea Embankment was built to improve thesewer and drainage system in the area, protectit from floods and provide a thoroughfare. Itchanged the look of the riverside and somestreets were lost in the process, including someof the scenes painted by Turner and other artists.Joseph Bazalgette’s design for the embankmentwas completed in 1874 as part of theMetropolitan Board of Works’ plans to combatthe days of ‘the Great Stink’, when the smell ofraw sewage in the Thames became unbearablein the hot summer of 1858.Gardens were planted to soften the look of thenew embankment (see Green Spaces).George Frederick Samuel Robinson (1827-1909), 1st Marquess of Ripon and Viceroy ofIndia, lived at 9 Chelsea Embankment. He wasborn at 10 Downing Street, the son of PrimeMinister Frederick John Robinson. Despite hisfather being a Tory, he was a Whig and a Liberal,serving in the cabinet and as Leader of theHouse of Lords. He pushed for more legal rightsfor native Indians while he was Viceroy of India.Chelsea Reach houseboatsincluding artist Damien Hirst and YO!Sushi founder Simon Woodroffe – aretrying to buy the Chelsea Yacht andBoat Company after it was put up forsale in 2011.Cheyne WalkNamed after one of Chelsea’s first landlords,Cheyne Walk has been home to aroll call of famous people.• Henry VIII’s manor house was on thesite of today’s 19-26 Cheyne Walk. Hebuilt the Manor of Chelsea in 1536, andresidents included Princess Elizabeth,Lady Jane Grey and Anne of Cleves atvarious times.• In 1655, Charles Cheyne marriedJane Cavendish, a wealthy lady whosefamily owned land in London. With herdowry, he was able to buy Henry VIII’sformer manor house, which the couplemodernised and renamed ChelseaPlace. When Charles died in 1698, theirson William inherited the property andSir Hans Sloane bought it in 1712.• Number 6 Cheyne Walk was home toItalian physician Dr Dominiceti in 1795,who built a series of baths and claimedthat bathing in them would cure anyillness. Dr Samuel Johnson was notimpressed and said there was nothing atall in his ‘boasted system’.• Civil engineer Sir Marc IsambardBrunel (1769-1849) and his sonIsambard Kingdom Brunel (1806-1859), who worked together on thefirst tunnel under the Thames, lived atnumber 98 from 1808 until 1825.• One of the greatest English landscapepainters, Joseph Mallord WilliamTurner (1775-1851), lived at 119 CheyneWalk in his old age until his death. Hewas inspired by the view of the river fromhis Chelsea home and had a balconybuilt so he could see it better. MallordStreet is named after him.• The Pre-Raphaelite poet and artistDante Gabriel Rossetti (1828-1882)

14 | STREETS & SIGHTS |lived at number 16 for 20 years from1862, and kept a menagerie of animalsthere, including armadillos, kangaroosand peacocks – much to his neighbours’distress.He was particularly fond of wombats,which he described as ‘a joy, a triumph,a delight, a madness’. He even lamentedthe death of one in a pen drawing and averse: ‘I never reared a young wombat,to glad me with his pin-hole eye, Butwhen he was most sweet and fat, Andtail-less he was sure to die’ – a parodyof Irish poet Thomas Moore’s Lalla Rookh.Algernon Charles Swinburne andGeorge Meredith also lived with himat the house at various times.• Victorian author George Eliot (1819-1880), who wrote novels includingMiddlemarch, Daniel Deronda, SilasMarner and The Mill on the Floss, movedinto number 4 with her new husband in1880. She died there later that year of akidney infection. She used a male penname rather than her own name, MaryAnne Evans, because she thought itwould help her work to be taken moreseriously.• The American artist James AbbottMcNeill Whistler (1834-1903) lived atHenry VIII’s Chelseamanor houseRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s Serviceseveral addresses in Chelsea including 96Cheyne Walk, where a plaque bears hisname. He was known for his wit and wasfriends with Oscar Wilde. A sculpture ofWhistler by Nicholas Dimbleby stands onCheyne Walk near Battersea Bridge, at apoint affectionately known as Whistler’sReach. He signed his works with a butterflyimage and painted scenes around thearea, including Nocturne: Blue and Gold –Old Battersea Bridge, and Nocturne inBlack and Gold – The Falling Rocket(see Art).• Number 10 housed one of the 20thcentury’s key politicians, David LloydGeorge (1863-1945) – the only Welshprime minister and the last Liberal to holdthe office. He was PM between 1916 and1922, and was one of the ‘big three’(along with France’s Georges Clemenceauand US President Woodrow Wilson) whofinalised the Treaty of Versailles, signed inJune 1919, that ended the state of warbetween Germany and the Allied Powersafter the First World War.• Scottish sculptor John Tweed (1869-1933), known for statues including LordKitchener at Horse Guards Parade, thepeers’ war memorial at the House of Lordsand Joseph Chamberlain in WestminsterAbbey, lived at 108 Cheyne Walk.• Poet, essayist and historian HilaireBelloc (1870-1953) moved to 104 CheyneWalk in 1900 and lived there for five years.He worked closely with the writer GKChesterton, leading George Bernard Shawto call their partnership ‘Chesterbelloc’ -a name that stuck. The house hadpreviously been occupied by artist WalterGreaves (1846-1930), who lived therefrom 1855-1897 and painted the riverextensively.• Mathematician, logician and philosopherBertrand Russell (1872-1970), lived atseveral Chelsea addresses including14 Cheyne Walk. He wrote the landmarkmaths tome Principia Mathematica withAlfred Whitehead, who lived at 17 CarlyleRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceSquare, while living in Chelsea.• Women’s rights campaigner SylviaPankhurst (1882-1960) lived at number120. She was the daughter of EmmelinePankhurst, founder of the Women’sSocial and Political Union, and, like someof her fellow suffragettes, enduredimprisonment and force-feeding for hercause – to try to win rights for womenand be treated as equals to men.• Carlyle Mansions, on the corner ofLawrence Street and Cheyne Walk, washome to several wordsmiths, earning itthe nickname ‘the Writers’ Block’.Residents in the flats through the yearsincluded Henry James, TS Eliot,Somerset Maugham and Ian Fleming,among others.• Sir Jacob Epstein, the sculptor whocreated the memorial to Oscar Wildethat stands in Paris’s Père Lachaisecemetery, lived at 72 Cheyne Walk.The site of his studio, which he usedbetween 1909 and 1914, was bombedin 1941 and is now known as Roper’sGarden.• Other residents of Cheyne Walk haveincluded composer Ralph VaughanWilliams, artists William Holman Huntand Philip Wilson Steer, designer andarchitect Charles Robert Ashbee andRolling Stones members Keith Richardsand Mick Jagger.GeorgeEliot’shouse onCheyneWalk, byW BurgessCheyne Row• Artist William De Morgan (1839-1917)lived at 30 Cheyne Row and 127 OldChurch Street. He worked with WilliamMorris and is best known for his glazedpottery, but he also painted anddesigned stained glass, and wrote anovel that became a best-seller in 1906.• Margaret Damer Dawson (1875-1920), the founder of the Women’sPolice Service, is remembered in aplaque at number 10 Cheyne Row. Theorganisation started out as the Women’sPolice Volunteers when the First WorldWar began in 1914, paving the way forwomen to enter the police service.Danvers Street• Sir Alexander Fleming (1881-1955),discoverer of penicillin, lived at 20aDanvers Street.Draycott Avenue• Pioneering plastic surgeon SirArchibald McIndoe (1900-1960), whohelped airmen who had been badlyburned in the Second World War, lived atFlat 14 in Avenue Court.Draycott Place• John Rushworth Jellicoe (1859-1935), 1st Earl Jellicoe and Admiral ofthe Fleet, lived at 25 Draycott Place.He commanded the Grand Fleet at theBattle of Jutland in the First World War,and there is a bust of him in TrafalgarSquare.Duke of York SquareDuke of York Square has become sucha part of Chelsea that it’s now difficultto imagine the King’s Road without it.It used to be the Duke of York’s armybarracks, which had been inaccessibleto the public for 200 years, and beforethat had been a school, the Duke ofYork’s Royal Military Asylum, set up in1802.

15 | STREETS & SIGHTS |Cadogan bought the site from theMinistry of Defence in 1999 and began a£120 million development which included100,000 sq ft of shops, cafés, officesand flats.Architects Paul David & Partnersworked with English Heritage to makesure the new buildings complementedthe historic ones around them, and workbegan in April 2000. The area was landscapedby Elizabeth Banks Associatesand was designed to create a havenfrom the bustle of the King’s Road, withpale stone, fountains and shrubs. It wasthe first new public square in centralLondon for more than a century.The development was opened by HRHPrince Andrew, the Duke of York, onMarch 19, 2003. A sculpture of childrenplaying commemorates the school thatstood on the site, and a statue of SirHans Sloane links it to both Chelsea andCadogan’s past.Today, Duke of York Square featuresthe Saatchi Gallery and a variety of fashion,beauty and food shops, as well asrestaurants and cafés. There are regularevents, including the Saturday Farmers'Market, the annual BADA Antiques &Fine Art Fair and concerts. For more,visit www.dukeofyorksquare.com.Elm Park Gardens• Labour politician Sir Stafford Cripps(1889-1952) was born at 32 Elm ParkGardens. He served in several posts inthe wartime coalition in the SecondWorld War and was Chancellor of theExchequer from 1947 to 1950.• Entertainer and writer Joyce GrenfellOBE (1910-1979) lived in Flat 8 at 34Elm Park Gardens between 1957 and1979. She is best known for her onewomanshows and monologues, includingher role as a nursery teacher with thecatchphrase: “George… don’t do that.”She had also lived in the King’s Roadand St Leonard’s Terrace.Dukeof YorkSquareopeningKing’s RoadThe King’s Road started life as just that –the King’s private road. It was built byCharles II in the 17th century as a routefrom Whitehall to Hampton Court.Because not everyone could use thethoroughfare, Chelsea was based morearound the riverside.However, locals were allowed to usethe road, and when George I looked setto take away this right, Sir Hans Sloaneand the local rector organised a petitionand saved the custom. It remainedclosed to the general public – only thosewith a special token could pass – until1830, when it was opened to everyone,helping to invigorate the area.The King’s Road’s reputation as afashion hub and key scene in theSwinging Sixties really began with theopening of Mary Quant’s shop Bazaarin 1955. She railed against traditionalfashion and launched cutting-edgedesigns including mini-skirts and plasticraincoats. Iconic boutiques such asGranny Takes a Trip, Hung on You andthe Chelsea Drugstore complex alsosprung up in the King’s Road.The road was the epicentre of punkculture in the 1970s, as a new era sweptaway the idealism of the 1960s.Vivienne Westwood and MalcolmMcLaren opened their shop, Let It Rock,at 430 King’s Road in 1971. It reopenedas SEX in 1974 and changed its focus toS&M-inspired anti-fashion that challengedthe establishment.McLaren had been helping a bandcalled the Strand – soon to be known asthe Sex Pistols – and spotted JohnLydon, who auditioned at SEX andbecame the band’s lead singer, JohnnyRotten. McLaren managed the band andThe Pheasantry onthe King’s Roadhelped them gain notoriety.In the 1980s, the King’s Road becameknown for ‘Sloane Rangers’, after thepublication of Ann Barr and Peter York’sOfficial Sloane Ranger Handbook in1982. ‘Sloanes’ was a term for the caricatureof the young, upper or upper-middleclass men and women often seen onthe road.Today the King’s Road is known for itsshopping, nightlife and history (for moreon the history of the King’s Road, seeHistory).• Thomas Arne (1710-1778), the composerof Rule, Britannia!, lived at 215King’s Road. He also wrote music forconcerts at Ranelagh Gardens. His son,Michael, who was also a composer, hada passion for alchemy and built a laboratoryin Chelsea, where eventually hisobsession destroyed his finances.• Actress Ellen Terry (1847-1928), oneof the great beauties of her time, alsolived at 215 King’s Road. She was oneof the era’s leading actresses andappeared at Chelsea’s Royal CourtTheatre.Her first marriage was to the artistGeorge Frederic Watts, who was mucholder, and she features in several of hispaintings. Although they separated afterless than a year, she wasn’t divorcedfrom him until much later – making herrelationship with architect EdwardWilliam Godwin, with whom she hadchildren, something of a scandal.• John McKean Brydon's Chelsea OldTown Hall was finished in 1887. Thefront of the building, seen from the King’sRoad, was added 30 years later byLeonard Stokes. The building hostsevents and has beautiful rooms availablefor hire, including for civil marriage ceremoniesand receptions. It also housesthe Chelsea Library.• Thomas Crapper had a bathroomfittings showroom at 120 King’s Road.Contrary to myth, he didn’t invent theflush toilet, but he did help to populariseit and developed several important inventions,such as the floating ballcock.• The Six Bells pub on the King's Roadwas a favourite of artists includingWhistler. It is now Henry J Bean’s (seePubs, bars and nightlife).• The Glaciarium, the first mechanicallyfrozen ice rink, opened just off the King’sRoad in 1876 and moved to a permanentvenue on the street the next year.• Australian-born pianist, composer andarranger Percy Grainger (1882-1961)lived at 31 King’s Road. He is bestknown for his piano arrangement of thefolk tune Country Gardens, which he is

16 | STREETS & SIGHTS |said to have detested. Much of his workwas experimental.• The Pheasantry at 152 King’s Road isa Chelsea landmark with a long historyas a hub for creative artists – includingdancers, actors, writers and musicians.The building’s name comes from itsearlier use as a site to breed pheasants.Ballet dancer Princess SeraphineAstafieva (1876-1934) lived and taughtthere from 1916-1934. She was a relativeof Tolstoy and her pupils includedMargot Fonteyn and Alicia Markova.The basement housed a club andrestaurant from the 1930s up until themid-1960s and it counted DylanThomas, Francis Bacon, LucianFreud, Gregory Peck and PeterUstinov among its members.Eric Clapton lived on the top floor inthe late 1960s, and the Pheasantry alsohosted early UK gigs by Lou Reed,Queen and Hawkwind. The buildingnow houses a Pizza Express, whichcarries on the tradition by continuing tohost live music.• The Markham Arms pub at 138 King’sRoad was frequented by East End crimefigures the Kray twins in the 1950s. Thebow-fronted building is now a bank.• The Chelsea Drugstore – mentionedin the Rolling Stones’ You Can’t AlwaysGet What You Want and featured inStanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orangeas the Musik Bootick – opened in 1968.It was a trendy, American-style complexbased on Le Drugstore in Paris, withspaces to eat, drink, dance and shop,and had a very modern glass and aluminiumlook.It was open 16 hours a day, sevendays a week, and even offered a ‘flyingsquad’ delivery service, where girls onmotorcycles would deliver purchases. Itclosed in 1971 after pressure from localresidents, and although a pale imitationopened later, it failed to revive the glorydays. The site is now a McDonald’s.• Christian the Lion was a real lionthat lived in a basement flat on theKing’s Road. He was bought as a cubfrom Harrods’ pet department by JohnRendall and Ace Bourke in 1969, andvisited restaurants and exercised in thegrounds of the Moravian church onthe King’s Road. But he was growingfast, and Rendall and Bourke workedwith Born Free stars Bill Travers andVirginia McKenna and conservationistGeorge Adamson to return Christian tothe wild. He was released in Kenya in1971 and the footage of the emotionalreunion with his former owners whenthey visited a year later has sincebecome a YouTube hit.• Ian Fleming’s iconic fictional spyJames Bond lived in a unnamed squareoff the King’s Road.Lawrence StreetPorcelain was manufactured in Chelseain a house in Lawrence Street, establishedaround 1745. It was known forhigh-quality tableware and figures, andwas run by craftsmen including formersilversmith Nicholas Sprimont and laterChelsea Methodist ChurchWith its striking blue and gold front,Chelsea Methodist Church might catchyour eye amid the shops on the King’sRoad. The church and pastoral centrerun a variety of different activities foryoung and old throughout the week andthe building is also the hub of WestLondon Churches Homeless Concern, aseparate charity.Methodists started meeting in Chelseain a local woman’s house in the 18thcentury, where the movement's founder,John Wesley, preached to them severaltimes. As the movement grew, they firstrented rooms in Ranelagh Gardens, thenleased and converted a slaughterhousein the Sloane Street area and had apurpose-built chapel in Sloane Square(now the site of the Royal Court Theatre)in the early 19th century.Their second chapel was in SloaneTerrace, on the present site of CadoganHall. They built here on the King’s Roadin 1903, but a bomb destroyed thesanctuary in 1941, and the whole site wasredeveloped in 1983.The new design created 21 flats for theelderly and sanctuaries designed byBernard Lamb, including the narthex(welcoming area) in front of the church’smain sanctuary.Today, the upstairs hall is used by communitygroups, play sessions and classes,and office space on the top floors is rentedout to charities. The narthex welcomeseveryone, from the homeless to people whojust need to see a friendly face (9-4pm onMondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays). Thechurch also takes part in the winter nightshelter for the homeless run by WestLondon Churches Homeless Concern.It is open every day for prayer and thereare services from 11am on Sundays, with adiverse congregation.155a King’s Road, SW3 5TX. T: 0207352 9305. www.chelseamethodist.org.uk

17 | STREETS & SIGHTS |Chelsea Old ChurchChelsea Old Church is on the cornerof Old Church Street and ChelseaEmbankment. There has probably been achurch on this site ever since Christianitycame to England, and it used to be theparish church of the village of Chelseabefore it was part of London.The building – before it was bombedduring the Second World War – datedfrom the 13th century, and consisted ofthe chancel, north and south chapelsand the later nave and tower (datingfrom 1670).The chapels were private property andthe north one, the Lawrence Chapel,belonged to the Lord of the Manor ofChelsea. The south chapel was rebuilt in1528 as Sir Thomas More’s private chapel.The date appears on one of the capitalsof the pillars leading to the chancel, saidto have been designed by Holbein.The church was almost completelydestroyed when it was heavily bombedin 1941 and a painstaking period ofrebuilding and restoration followed, led bythe architect Walter Godfrey. The MoreChapel suffered the least damage andwas extended and reopened in 1950. Thechancel and Lawrence Chapel wererestored and were rededicated in May 1954and the entire church was reconsecrated inMay 1958 by the Lord Bishop of London, inthe presence of HM Queen Elizabeth theQueen Mother. It is still on the original foundations.The More Chapel was brought backinto use for weekday services in July 1964.Chelsea Old Church features manyimportant monuments commemoratingsome of the people who have worshippedthere. They were damaged in the SecondWorld War, but were mostly saved andrestored. These include the monument toSir Thomas More against the south wall ofthe sanctuary, with an inscription composedby More in tribute to his first wife and wishingthat he and his second wife should beburied in the same tomb. It’s a matter ofdebate where More’s final resting place wasafter he was executed in 1535.A tomb in the south-east corner of theMore Chapel remembers Jane Dudley,the Duchess of Northumberland, whowas the mother of Elizabeth I’s favourite,Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. On thenorth side of the nave, Lady JaneCheyne, daughter of the Duke ofNewcastle and a benefactor of thechurch andChelsea,is rememberedin a1669 memorialby GianLorenzoBernini. Theseare just a fewof the church’smonuments.Sir HansSloane isburied inChelsea OldChurchand amonumentwas erectedin his honouron the north wallof the chancery,paid for by theFriends of theBritish Museumand unveiled byEarl Cadogan, a descendent of HansSloane.Chelsea Old Church is Anglican andpart of the Church of England’s Dioceseof London. The church hall is the nearbyPetyt Hall, which can be hired. Thereare regular services and the church isalso open Tuesday to Thursday from2pm-4pm.For more information, telephone020 7795 1019 or visit www.chelseaoldchurch.org.uk.by Derby porcelain factory ownerWilliam Duesbury. It closed around1784.• For The Cross Keys, see Pubs andBars.• Novelist and poet Tobias Smollett(1721-1771), best known for TheAdventures of Roderick Random andThe Adventures of Peregrine Pickle, livedat 16 Lawrence Street and also lived inpart of the same house as the porcelainfactory from 1750 to 1762.Lennox Gardens• Polish statesman and diplomat CountEdward Raczynski (1891-1993) lived at8 Lennox Gardens from 1967-1993. Hewas the Polish ambassador to theLeague of Nations and became theambassador of the Republic of Poland inthe UK. He signed the Anglo-Polishalliance that led Britain to declare war onGermany after Hitler’s aggressiontowards Poland, and was his country'spresident-in-exile from 1979-1986.Mallord StreetMallord Street is named after JosephMallord William Turner.• Painter and etcher Augustus John(1878-1961) lived at 28 Mallord Street ina house modelled on Rembrandt’s studioin Amsterdam, designed for him byDutch architect Robert van’t Hoff. Helater lived at 33 Tite Street.• AA Milne (1882-1956), author ofWinnie-the-Pooh, lived at 13 MallordStreet.Oakley Gardens• Novelist George Gissing (1857-1903)lived at 33 Oakley Gardens from 1882to 1884.Oakley Street• Lady Jane Francesca Wilde (1821-1896), Oscar Wilde's mother, lived at87 Oakley Street from 1887 to 1896.

18 | STREETS & SIGHTS |She was an Irish poet, who wrote underthe pen name ‘Speranza’.• Captain Robert Falcon Scott(1868-1912), also known as Scott ofthe Antarctic, an explorer who led twoexpeditions to the South Pole, lived at56 Oakley Street.He led a small team to reach the polein January 1912, only to discover that arival Norwegian team had beaten themto it by five weeks. Scott and his team allperished on the return journey, despitethe unwell Captain Lawrence Oatesfamously sacrificing himself by walkingout of the tent into a blizzard to give histeam-mates a better chance of survival.• David and Angie Bowie lived at 89Oakley Street from 1973 to 74.Old Church Street• John F Sartorius (c.1775-c.1830),best known for his sporting paintings,especially of horses, lived at 155 OldChurch Street from 1807-1812.• University professor, Church ofEngland priest and author CharlesKingsley (1819-1875), best knownfor writing The Water-Babies, livedat 56 Old Church Street. His fatherwas Chelsea’s parish rector from1836-1860.• Ceramic artist and novelist WilliamDe Morgan (1839-1917) and his wifeEvelyn (1855-1919) lived and died at127 Old Church Street. He was friendswith William Morris and designed tiles,stained glass and furniture for Morris &Co, while Evelyn was a Pre-Raphaelitepainter.• Sound Techniques, an independentrecording studio, was at 46a Old ChurchStreet from 1964-1976, and was usedby artists including Nick Drake, PinkFloyd, the Who and the Yardbirds.• Former Def Leppard guitarist SteveClark (1960-1991) died from a drugoverdose at his home at 44 Old ChurchStreet, aged 30.Royal Hospital ChelseaPont Street• Sir George Alexander (1858-1918)lived at 57 Pont Street. He was actormanagerof St James’s Theatre andproduced several major plays, includingOscar Wilde’s Lady Windermere’s Fanand The Second Mrs Tanqueray bySir Arthur Wing Pinero.Wilde’s The Importance of BeingEarnest premiered at the theatre inFebruary 1895, with Alexander himselfRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceThe Flying ManOne of the most colourful stories fromChelsea’s past is that of the ‘flying man’.Vincent de Groof, a Belgian with adream of making a flying machine thatimitated a bird’s wings, planned a publicdemonstration of his invention atCremorne Gardens in 1874. He hadalready successfully trialled his flyingapparatus at the gardens, and claimedhe could fly through the air for 500 feet.On a fateful July evening, the crowdsgathered to watch him make hisdescent. His invention, made of caneand silk and similar to a bat’s wings, hadlevers to control it and he planned toswoop down from a balloon. The balloonlifted de Groof and his machine high intothe air, about 300-400 feet, but heseemed to lose his nerve and ask for theballoon to be lowered to he could makehis flight from nearer the ground.According to newspaper reports atthe time, as the balloon drifted towardsSt Luke’s Church, the balloonist washeard to tell de Groof to cut himselfloose or he would land on the churchroof. De Groof cut the rope when he was80 feet from the ground, hoping to landin the churchyard, but his wings didn’tinflate and he plummeted into RobertStreet (now Sydney Street).He never regained consciousness andin the role of Mr John Worthing, JP.The Marquess of Queensberry, whowould eventually bring about Wilde’sdownfall (see Oscar Wilde underTite Street), intended to disrupt the premiere,but Alexander and Wilde weretipped off and prevented him fromattending.Wilde’s conviction for gross indecencyin May 1895 led to the play beingclosed, despite its success.died shortly after at Chelsea Infirmary.His wife reportedly fainted at the sightof the crash and the flying machine wascarried off in shreds by the crowd beforethe police could secure it. The balloonsoared away over Victoria Park and wasapparently watched with interest bymany people, unaware of its role inthe tragedy.• Actress Lillie Langtry (1853-1929) livedat 21 Pont Street (see The Cadogan inHotels).Royal Hospital Road• The Royal Hospital Chelsea is abeautiful, grand Grade I-listed 17thcenturybuildings, mostly built by SirChristopher Wren, with three largecourtyards and well-kept grounds. Themain courtyard, Figure Court, features anRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s Service

19 | STREETS & SIGHTS |impressive statue of Charles II, whichwas regilded in 2002 for the Queen’sGolden Jubilee.The Chelsea Pensioners themselvesare immediately recognisable in theirscarlet uniforms, and there are tours byChelsea Pensioner guides (seeMuseums). The RHS Chelsea FlowerShow has been held in the SouthGrounds of the hospital since 1913.There are events, such as concerts, heldat the hospital and certain rooms can behired for functions or weddings.The Royal Hospital was establishedunder Charles II, who issued a RoyalWarrant in 1681 authorising its buildingto provide for the welfare of old or disabledsoldiers. Sir Christopher Wren,Surveyor-General of Works to Charles II,was commissioned to design it and SirStephen Fox, former Paymaster Generalto the Army and Commissioner of theTreasury, secured the funds – with somedifficulty.Despite delays and problems withfunding, building work was finallycompleted in 1692 and in February thesame year, the first in-pensioners wereadmitted. The hospital includes the LongWards, which contains the pensioners’living quarters, the State Apartments, theWren Chapel, the Great Hall and theOctagon. The berths in the Long Wards,where the pensioners sleep, wereextended in 1954-55 and again in 1991to their present size of 9 x 9ft.The Royal Hospital was funded bydeductions from army pay and got occasionalboosts from other sources in itsearly days, but since 1847 it has beensupported by Government ‘grant-in-aid’,legacies, donations and unclaimed sharesof money from the Army Prize Fund.Today it is still supported by grant-in-aidbut major projects and non-routine maintenanceare funded by private donations.It is home to between 300 and 350veteran soldiers who have surrenderedtheir military pension to the Treasury inreturn for accommodation, food, uniformclothing and medical care.The Great Hall, where the pensionerseat, is an impressive space and featuresa number of artworks, including a muralpainting by Antonio Verrio and HenryCooke of Charles II on horseback, datingfrom around 1690, which was restoredin 2002.One of the hospital’s real gems is theWren Chapel. It has a high ceiling, greatacoustics and a mural of theResurrection by Sebastiano Ricci, datingfrom 1714. The first televised churchservice in Britain was broadcast from thechapel in 1949.Chelsea pensioner tour guidesThe Octagon, which links the chapeland the Great Hall, supports the cupolaand rises to 130ft. The Royal Coat ofArms over the north entrance originallycame from the Royal Hospital atKilmainham, Dublin, which closed in1925. The striking statue of a ChelseaPensioner by Philip Jackson was erectedin front of the Octagon in 2000 to markthe new millennium.Sir John Soane added a new infirmarybuilding on the site of today’s NationalArmy Museum in 1809, but it wasdemolished after being bombed in 1941,Royal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceSt Luke’s andChrist ChurchSt Luke’s ChurchSt Luke’s on Sydney Street and Christ Churchoff Flood Street are treated as the same parish.St Luke’s, designed by James Savage, wasconsecrated in 1824 and was built becauseChelsea Old Church had become too small forthe rising population. Christ Church, designedby Edward Blore, was consecrated in 1839,originally as a ‘chapel of ease’ for St Luke’s.St Luke’s is regarded as one of the firstneo-Gothic churches in London.Charles Dickens married Catherine Hogarthat St Luke’s on April 2, 1836, two days afterthe first part of The Pickwick Papers was published.Other famous figures connected withthe church include The Water-Babies authorCharles Kingsley, whose father was the rectorof the parish from 1836-1860; John Goss,who wrote the hymn Praise My Soul the Kingof Heaven; and John Ireland, who wrote thetune for My Song is Love Unknown. Goss andIreland were organists at the church.The nave is 60ft high, thought to be thetallest of any parish church in London, and thetower is 142ft tall. The east window coversmore than 500 sq ft and was designed byHugh Easton. It features emblems of thesaints and was installed in 1959 to replace awindow destroyed in the Second World War.Behind the altar, a painting by JamesNorthcote (1746-1831) shows the taking ofChrist from the cross, and two modern sculpturesby Stephen Cox either side of the highaltar depict Adam and Eve at the fall of manin the Garden of Eden. The ten bells in thetower were cast at Whitechapel when thechurch was built and are still rung.The organ at St Luke’s was built by JohnCompton in 1932 and includes some of theoriginal 1824 instrument. It was the prototypefor the organs at Broadcasting House andDownside Abbey.The PPFA Chapel on the south side of thechurch is used for prayer and is a memorialchapel to the Punjab Frontier Force, based inIndia from 1847 to 1947. There are othermemorials to locals at St Luke’s, including LtCol Henry Cadogan and Luke Thomas Flood.The labyrinth of crypts under the church isnow used as offices, and the burial groundhas been a public garden since 1881 (seeGreen Spaces).Christ Church is smaller than St Luke’s andwas designed as a church for the workingclass. It was funded by the Hydman familytrust and cost much less than St Luke’s, theidea being to cater for the maximum numberof people for the minimum cost. It wasextended over the years, with adornmentsadded as the social make-up of the areachanged. The organ and pulpit were rescuedfrom churches that were being demolished.Christ Church established a boys’ schoolsoon after its consecration at rented propertyin Flood Street. It accepted girls from 1843,when land was donated by Lord Cadoganand new schools were built. Today, it is aChurch of England primary school.Christ Church rejoined St Luke’s in 1986 toform the Parish of Chelsea: St Luke andChrist Church. Each church is managedseparately.For more information, telephone 020 73517365 or visit www.chelseaparish.org.

20 | STREETS & SIGHTS |during the Second World War. Parts ofthe hospital were also damaged bybombs in 1918, rebuilt in 1923 anddestroyed again by a V2 rocket in 1945.The Margaret Thatcher Infirmary with its125 en suite bedrooms, built by QuinlanTerry, was opened in 2009 to providestate-of-the-art care.The creation of the ChelseaEmbankment resulted in the loss ofWren’s original formal gardens, and theRoyal Hospital has lost and gained landover the years. Today, the grounds cover66 acres.The Chelsea Pensioners’ Appeal, aregistered charity, is campaigning to raise£30 million to update the living accommodationin the Long Wards, which arealready being refurbished, hoping tochange wooden cubicle berths andshared bathrooms into modern en-suitestudy bedrooms. (For more informationabout visiting the Royal HospitalChelsea, see Museums and GreenSpaces.)• For the National Army Museum, seeMuseums.• For the Chelsea Physic Garden, seeGreen Spaces.• For Restaurant Gordon Ramsay andFoxtrot Oscar, see Restaurants.Sloane SquareSloane Square was part of the 1771Hans Town development designed byHenry Holland and his son, also calledHenry, and named after Sir Hans Sloane(see Hans Town panel on page 23). Inthose days, it had a small green in thecentre and Blandel Bridge crossed theRiver Westbourne in the eastern corner.The bridge was known as 'the bloodybridge’ because it was a notorious spotfor highwaymen, muggings and murders.Many of the premises in this area wereutilitarian in nature at first.By the 19th century, roads had sprungup to connect the surrounding streets.Sloane Square station opened in 1868(see Sloane Square Station) and PeterJones was created when draper PeterRees Jones opened shops at the topend of King's Road, redeveloping themas a single building in the 1880s (seePeter Jones in Shopping). The buildingthat houses the Royal Court Theatre wasbuilt in 1888 (see Royal Court Theatrein Theatre).The Venus Fountain at the centre ofthe square is Grade II-listed and wassculpted by Gilbert Ledward. It wasinstalled in 1953 and shows a kneelingVenus pouring water from a conch shell,while the basin depicts Charles II and hismistress, actress Nell Gwyn.Several proposals to redevelop thesquare have been put forward in recentyears. A public consultation was held in2007 about changes to the road layout,including a plan to create a crossroads.However, the plans were not popular anda renovation of the square was carriedout instead.Sloane Square StationSloane Square Station serves the Districtand Circle Underground lines and is onthe south-eastern corner of the Square,next to the Royal Court Theatre. The stationwas opened in 1868 as part of theDistrict line.The River Westbourne, one ofLondon’s ‘lost rivers’, flows above thetracks in a pipe on its way from itssource at Hampstead Heath to theThames at Chelsea Hospital.The station was rebuilt in the late 1930sbut it was heavily bombed in the SecondWorld War. In November 1940, bombsfell on the station causing the roof to collapsewhile a train was at the platform,killing or seriously injuring 79 people.Another tragedy at the station was thedeath of Peter Llewelyn Davies, theinspiration for JM Barrie’s Peter Pan, whocommitted suicide on the tracks.Holy TrinitySloane SquareDespite being known as Holy Trinity SloaneSquare, this church is actually on Sloane Street.One of London’s most beautiful buildings, itwas built in 1888 by John Dando Sedding, anarchitect inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement,which promoted skilled, hand-craftedwork as a reaction to industrialisation.The church was described by poet JohnBetjeman as “the cathedral of the Arts andCrafts movement”, featuring works by WilliamMorris, Edward Burne-Jones and ChristopherWhall, among others.The roof was destroyed by incendiary bombsduring the Blitz, but the church was restored bythe 1960s. The beautiful stained-glass windows,made by William Morris & Co, Sir WilliamBlake Richmond and Christopher Whall, havebeen returned to their former glory and areonce again a showcase for the Arts andCrafts style.Music is very important at Holy Trinity –Sedding himself was an organist, so the churchwas designed with a huge organ chamber morethan 40ft high. The Sunday morning servicesinclude music and there are often concerts heldat the church.The restoration of the organ began in July2011, funded by the Cadogan family andCadogan Estates Ltd. The original was built byJames John Walker and completed in 1891. Ithas been modified and repaired many timessince then, including an unfortunate incident in1967 when a member of staff fell into the secondlargest pipe while replacing glue on thejoints (he survived). The rebuilt organ, which willhave a completely new structure and mechanismwhile retaining most of the historicpipework, is expected to be completed in latesummer 2012. Made by Harrison & Harrisonorgan builders, it will have 4,200 pipes, rangingfrom three-quarters of an inch to 32 feet.For more information, telephone 020 77307270 or visit www.holytrinitysloanesquare.co.uk.

21 | STREETS & SIGHTS |The station is usually decked withplants when the RHS Chelsea FlowerShow (see Events) is running.Sloane Street• Jane Austen stayed with her brotherat 64 Sloane Street (see Hans Townpanel on page 23).• Statesman and author Sir CharlesWentworth Dilke (1843-1911) lived at16 Sloane Street. He had been tipped asa future prime minister, but a high-profiledivorce case in which he was cited asthe seducer of an MP’s young wife,ruined his career. He spent much of hislife trying to clear his name.• Actor and theatre manager Sir HerbertTree (1852-1917) lived at 76 SloaneStreet, where a plaque now marks thefact. Tree changed his surname fromBeerbohm so it was easier for audiencesto call for an encore.He managed the Haymarket Theatreand helped fund the rebuilding of HerMajesty’s Theatre (then known as HisMajesty’s Theatre), which he later managed.He also played Henry Higgins inthe premiere of Pygmalion there. He alsofounded the famous Royal Academy ofDramatic Art in 1904, and was knightedfor his contributions to theatre.Swan WalkSwan Walk was named after The Swan,a pub visited by Samuel Pepys andmentioned in his diaries. It was theoriginal finishing place of the Doggett’sCoat and Badge Race.• The Doggett’s Coat and Badge Raceis a rowing race for the young Freemenof the Company of Watermen andLightermen along the River Thames fromLondon Bridge to Chelsea. The race isfour miles and seven furlongs long, andin recent years has included women.The Watermen and Lightermen still workthe Thames – the Watermen are concernedwith passenger transport, andthe Lightermen with the carriage of goods.The race was founded in 1715 byThomas Doggett – actor, comedian andmanager of Drury Lane Theatre – anduntil 1873 was rowed against the tide.The prize is a scarlet coat, breeches anda silver badge, based on the originalcostume of 18th-century Watermen. It isstill run each year, but the finishing pointis now Cadogan Pier.• Mary Astell (1666-1731), a pioneeringfeminist writer, lived on Swan Walk.• Elizabeth Blackwell (1707-1758) livedat 4 Swan Walk. She was a botanicalillustrator who recorded many of theunusual plants in the Chelsea PhysicGarden, a career she turned to after herdoctor husband, Alexander, ended up ina debtor’s prison.St Leonard’s Terrace• Bram Stoker (1847-1912), author ofDracula, lived at 18 St Leonard’s Terrace.Oscar WildeRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceTite StreetTite Street runs down from RedburnStreet to Royal Hospital Road and isbest known for being the home of OscarWilde. It was named after William Tite,an architect who was a member of theMetropolitan Board of Works, which waslargely responsible for the creation ofChelsea Embankment. The numbershave changed over the years and today’snumbers are given here (for example, 34Tite Street was known as number 16when Wilde lived there).• Landscape and portrait painter JohnSinger Sargent (1856-1925) lived at 31Tite Street. Henry James, who lived innearby Carlyle Mansions, was one of hissitters.• Irish writer, poet and wit Oscar Wilde(1854-1900) lived in Tite Street, first atnumber 44 and then at today’s number34 after he married Constance Lloyd in1884. They had two sons, Cyril (1885)and Vyvyan (1886). The house wastransformed by Edward William Godwin,who had also designed a house in thestreet for James Abbott McNeillWhistler – although Whistler never got toenjoy it because of his costly libel action(see Art).Many of Wilde’s greatest successeshappened while he lived here, includingthe publication of his novel The Pictureof Dorian Gray (1891) and the staging ofLady Windermere’s Fan (1892) and AWoman of No Importance (1893). Salomé,which he wrote in French, was refused alicence by the Lord Chamberlain’s Officeand was first performed in 1896 in Paris.In 1895, An Ideal Husband and TheImportance of Being Earnest were staged,but at the height of his fame, Wilde suedthe Marquess of Queensberry, the fatherof his lover Lord Alfred Douglas, for libelover an insulting note that read ‘ForOscar Wilde, posing somdomite’ [sic]. Itwas a disastrous decision – the evidencethat the case unearthed led to Wildebeing arrested for gross indecency withmen (see The Cadogan in Hotels formore about Wilde’s arrest). He waseventually convicted and sent to prison,sentenced to two years of hard labour.By chance, the judge who decided hisfate also lived in Tite Street.After Wilde was released in 1897, hefled to Paris and died there in 1900. Hisremains lie in the Père Lachaise cemetery.Constance Wilde changed her andher sons’ surname to Holland afterWilde’s conviction.• The composer Peter Warlock(a pseudonym of Philip Arnold Heseltine,1894-1930), lived at 30 Tite Street.Tedworth Square• Samuel Clemens (1835-1910), betterknown by his pen name Mark Twain,lived at 23 Tedworth Square in 1896-97.He wrote The Adventures of Tom Sawyerand Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.Upper Cheyne Row• Journalist and poet Leigh Hunt (1784-1859) lived at 22 Upper Cheyne Row.He was a Chelsea resident from 1833and published poets including Keats andShelley in his weekly periodical TheExaminer. However, it landed him inprison after he printed an insultingdescription of the Prince Regent.

22 | INSIDER | Buildings & architectureThe Insider’s Guideto buildings andarchitectureBy Hugh Seaborn, chiefexecutive of Cadogan, whichrepresents extensive Cadoganfamily land holdingsin Chelsea. These date back to1712, when Sir Hans Sloanepurchased the Manor ofChelsea and Charles, 2nd BaronCadogan, subsequently marriedhis daughter Elizabeth Sloanein 1717Duke ofYork SquarePeter Jones, Sloane SquareI would start at the top of Peter Jones,enjoying a coffee while drinking in theview from its picture windows. On theway in, wonder at the statement madeby the building, built in the 1930s onan impressive scale. Look at its sizecompared to everything around it.The confidence it conveys is reflectedin the pioneering use of curtain walling.This is where the John Lewis workers’cooperative began.Cadogan Hall, 5 Sloane TerraceA two-minute walk away in SloaneTerrace is the hidden gem of CadoganHall. This concert hall, open to the public,was converted with great sensitivity froma Church of Christ, Scientist. It wasoriginally built by Robert Chisholm intwo sections, and was finished in 1907.Above all, look at the windows,which were designed by Baron vonRosenkrantz with beautiful, rich colours.Holy Trinity Church,Sloane StreetOn the way back, walking south onCadogan HallSloane Street, you will pass theHoly Trinity Church designed by JohnSedding, where you can marvel at thepeace just off this busy shopping street,and again drink in the stained glasswindows with the light behind them.Duke of York Square,King’s RoadFrom here it is less than five minutes tothe Duke of York Square, opposite PeterJones. There is much to see, but I wouldstart with the Saatchi Gallery, which wasoriginally a home for soldiers’ childrenbuilt in the first years of the 19th centuryby John Sanders. The connection withchildren continues today as you willfrequently see children from Hill HouseSchool on the playing fields in front ofthe gallery. The buildings were so wellconverted by Paul Davis and Partnersthat it feels as though it was designedfor its present use.Royal Hospital Chelsea,Royal Hospital RoadNo visit to Chelsea for someoneinterested in buildings is complete untilyou have enjoyed the Royal Hospital,designed by Christopher Wren in thelate 17th century. It is extraordinarythat these wonderful buildings are stillused for the same purpose they weredesigned for, more than 300 years ago.The Chelsea Pensioners add to thedignity and elegance in their smart,scarlet uniforms.Cadogan SquareFinally, if you have the energy left,I would suggest taking a walk aroundCadogan Square and look at the varietyof gables. Imagine the confidence of theVictorians building these mansions fortheir successful merchants in place ofthe small Georgian houses that hadbeen there for 100 years previously.Number 52 on the west side of thesquare may particularly catch your eye.It was designed in 1885 by Sir ErnestGeorge and is rich in the styles of theFlemish and German Renaissance. It isa private house, so you cannot go in, butthe external details alone justify the visit.

23 | STREETS & SIGHTS |Hans TownThe area of Chelsea that was known asHans Town has been frequented by manyremarkable characters, including authorsJane Austen, Lady Caroline Lamb andMary Mitford.Henry Holland the builder and his son,Henry Holland the architect, put forwardplans in 1771 to develop 89 acres of fieldsand market gardens betweenKnightsbridge in the north and Blacklands– what is now Turks Row, behind theSaatchi Gallery – in the south. It was anambitious scheme. To put it in perspective,the £2 billion regeneration of King’s Crosswhich is destined to deliver 2,000 homes,500,000 sq ft of retail and 3.4 million sq ftof offices, covers only 67 acres.The Holland scheme – known as HansTown after Sir Hans Sloane, whose heirsowned the land – became the model formany new towns in central London duringthe building boom in the 18th and 19thcenturies.Work on Hans Town began in 1777, andby 1790, spacious three-storey Georgianterraces lined the west side of SloaneStreet and flowed into Hans Place, HansStreet and Hans Crescent.The buildings had been let on 99-yearleases and when the leases came to anend, the Cadogan Estate launched a redevelopmentprogramme in a style that artcritic, author and cartoonist OsbertLancaster described as ‘Pont Street Dutch’.The red-brick buildings, with their large windows,ornamentation and gables, areinstantly recognisable.Sloane PlaceHenry Holland the architect built himself amansion south of Hans Place, set in threeacres, and had moved in by 1789.Pont Street Dutch gablesOriginally called Sloane Place, it becameknown as the Pavilion because the frontof the house was built as a model for theBrighton Pavilion, with a Doric columncolonnade.The south of the mansion looked overlandscapes designed by ‘Capability’Brown, Holland’s father-in-law and partner.The gardens featured a Gothic icehouseand a faux ruined priory, createdusing stones from the demolished homeof Cardinal Wolsey.The Pavilion was demolished duringthe 19th-century redevelopment, but iscommemorated in the name of PavilionRoad. Cadogan Square was laid out inpart of the gardens.22 Hans Place22 Hans Place was a school in 1978,attended by Lady Caroline Lamb, novel-ist Mary Russell Mitford and journalist,poet and novelist Letitia Landon, whowas known by her initials, LEL.Lady Caroline Lamb (1785-1828)married the future prime minister, the2nd Viscount Melbourne, and is bestknown for her affair with Lord Byron. Shefamously described Byron as, “mad, badand dangerous to know.”Mary Mitford (1787-1855), who wroteOur Village, was a friend of ElizabethBarrett Browning and had plays producedin Covent Garden.Letitia Landon (1802-1838) had herfirst poem published in the LiteraryGazette when she was 18, and went onto become its chief reviewer. Her poetrywas popular but her reputation sufferedafter rumours began to circulate that shehad given birth to secret children –something her fiancé John Foster did nothelp with when he investigated to see if itwas true.She broke off the engagement andmarried the governor of the Gold Coastin Africa in 1838, leaving Britain behind.Two months after she arrived in Africa,she was found dead with a bottle ofprussic acid in her hand.After redevelopment, 22 Hans Placebecame the headquarters of the IrishTreaty delegation. It was decided thereon December 5, 1921, that the delegateswould recommend the Anglo-IrishTreaty, which ended the Irish War ofIndependence, to the Dáil Éireann.23 Hans PlaceJane Austen’s brother Henry lived in ahouse at 64 Sloane Street in 1811 andJane visited him in the spring, just beforeSense and Sensibility was published. Buttwo years later, his wife had died and hehad moved to rooms above his bank inCovent Garden. In 1813, he moved to23 Hans Place and Jane stayed with himseveral times before he became ill in1815.

24 | INSIDER | Favourite placesThe Insider’s Guideto favourite placesBy Michael Hoppen, owner ofthe Michael Hoppen Gallery inJubilee Place. He is a leadingphotography dealer and hisrecent exhibitions haveincluded works by legendaryfashion photographer GuyBourdin and the first Europeansolo show from Japanesephotographer Hisaji Hara.Michael is the son of StephanieHoppen, whose gallery isin Walton Street, and thebrother of interior designerKelly HoppenSt Luke’s, Sydney StreetI have always loved St Luke’s church.It’s beautifully maintained, close to mygallery, and the gardens are alwaysa good place to reflect. A refuge.606 Club, 90 Lots Road606 still makes my feet tap wheneverI go.Chelsea Physic Garden,Royal Hospital RoadThe Chelsea Physic Garden is anamazing place to wander. So muchhistory and so many beautiful, smallthings to look at.Chelsea Arts Club,143 Old Church StreetA long lunch at the Chelsea Arts Clubis a perfect way to spend an afternoonin Chelsea.Fetter Lane Moravian Church,381 King’s RoadMy secret green space is the Moraviangardens down at World’s End. I rememberseeing the lion cub exercise therewhen I was a small boy growing uparound Chelsea in the 1960s (see‘Christian the lion’, page 16, in Streetsand Sights).Phat Phuc Noodle Bar,151 Sydney StreetThe best Vietnamese noodles in town.The Pig’s Ear, 35 Old ChurchStreetThis pub has a great atmosphere forwhen the Arts Club is too busy.The King’s RoadI have so many memories of the King’sRoad as I grew up here from the early1960s. I remember the Stones’ concert inHyde Park when all the hippies camedown the King’s Road walking to thepark. There was a couple who paintedtheir bodies with flowers and walkednaked up the street. My eyes were onstalks!Cocomaya, Unit 10, 186 PavilionRoadA wonderful café behind Peter Jones –the best coffee in Chelsea bar none.

25 | WALKS |Wander ofwondersDon’t miss any of Chelsea’s treasures with thesewalking tours of the area’s unmissable sightsChelsea is a small enough place for you to see alot on foot, but big enough that there is plenty tosee. Even within a few streets, the atmosphere andarchitecture can be vastly different. We haveplanned three walks to show you some of the bestsights and hidden gems in the area.How long they take to walk is up to you – theestimated times given here are purely for theroutes on foot. Make sure you give yourself extratime for any shopping, eating or visitingattractions.Sloane Squareto Knightsbridge

26| WALKS |Sloane Square toKnightsbridgeTime: 45minsSights include: Holy Trinity SloaneSquare, Hans Town, Harrods and HarveyNichols.This walk takes you fromSloane Square Tube station toKnightsbridge Tube station,covering a bit of history andsome of the area’s iconicshops.Start at Sloane Square Tube station.Cross over the road towards Hugo Boss.Continue past Hugo Boss and walk upto the traffic lights. Turn right and crossover to the middle of Sloane Square qitself. [Sight: Sloane Square.] Have a lookat the fountain, which usually has penniesin it where visitors have made awish.Continue over Sloane Square andcross the pedestrian crossing to SloaneStreet, which has Tiffany & Co. on theleft-hand corner, followed by Cartier.Walk up Sloane Street and you will seeHoly Trinity Sloane Square w on yourright, an impressive Arts & Crafts buildingwith striped brickwork. [Sight: Holy TrinityChurch.] Notice the carving over thedoor and the ornate window.Continue up Sloane Street. InsiderCassandra Goad’s shop e is immediatelyafter the church. [Insider:Cassandra Goad.]Just before you reach Jo Malone, turnright into Sloane Terrace to see CadoganHall. r [Sight: Cadogan Hall.] There is acarving over the stage door, a remnantfrom the building’s former life as the FirstChurch of Christ, Scientist.Return to Sloane Street and turn rightto continue up it, past Jo Malone.Turn right down Ellis Street (just afterthe Paule Ka shop). There is a charminglittle row of shops here, including SelinaBlow t and Lulu Guinness. y [Sight:Shops – Selina Blow, Lulu Guinness.]Walk to the end of Ellis Street and turnleft into D’Oyley Street. On the corner ofD’Oyley Street and Cadogan Gate, thereare a couple of white metal bollardsmarked ‘Hans Town 1819’.Turn left into Cadogan Gate, withCadogan Place Gardens on your right, toreturn to Sloane Street. There are someBarclays Cycle Hire bicycles here, knowncolloquially as ‘Boris Bikes’ after Mayorof London Boris Johnson, a prominentsupporter of the scheme.At the end of Cadogan Gate, turn rightand continue up Sloane Street. CadoganPlace Gardens u is one of Chelsea’smany private gardens and is residentsonly,but you can peek over the railingsto see what the people who live hereenjoy.Cross over to the other side of SloaneStreet to walk on the left-hand side ofthe road. After a few minutes’ walk, you’llsee blue plaques to actor Sir HerbertTree and politician Sir Charles Dilke[Sights] on your left, at number 76. iContinue up Sloane Street and you willsee the Cadogan hotel o [Sight:Cadogan hotel] on the left, where OscarWilde was famously arrested.Sloane Street meets Pont Street here.Look down Pont Street to the left to seethe Cadogan Restaurant, formerlyLangtry’s, where there is a blue plaquemarking it as the former home oflegendary actress Lillie Langtry.Look right to see a green hut a onPont Street – one of the charity-fundedcabmen’s shelters, which are scatteredaround London. They have been a foodand respite stop for cabbies since 1875and were conceived by the Earl ofShaftesbury as a way for cab drivers tohave a hot meal and a cup of tea withoutleaving their cabs unattended.Cross over Pont Street to continue upSloane Street. Just before the theEmbassy of Iceland, turn left into HansStreet and walk towards the green treesat the end. This is Hans Place, with a privategarden in the middle and greatexamples of Pont Street Dutch architecture.[Sight: Hans Town, 22 Hans Place,23 Hans Place.] Walk around Hans Placeclockwise. Number 22 s has had aninteresting past, including being a 19thcenturyschool and the headquarters ofthe Irish Treaty delegation in 1921. Atnumber 23 d you can see a blueplaque marking the London home ofJane Austen.Continue around Hans Place until youreach Hans Road. If you look down HansRoad, you can see Harrods, f with itsbeautiful detailing and iconic greencanopies. [Sight: Harrods in Shopping]Visit it if you like, and then to continuethe walk, return to Hans Place via HansRoad.Continue walking around Hans Placeuntil you reach Herbert Crescent. There’sanother white bollard on the corner,marked ‘St Luke Chelsea 1844’. Walkdown Herbert Crescent and head for thebig, white house at the end, which is onHans Crescent, and then turn right downHans Crescent to return to SloaneStreet. You should be able to see Dolce& Gabbana, Valentino and Yves StLaurent on Sloane Street ahead of you.Turn left to continue up Sloane Street,where there are a whole range of designershops, including Chanel, Bulgari,Hermès, Fendi, Versace, Jimmy Chooand Dior.Continue to the end of Sloane Streetuntil you reach the junction withBrompton Road. Harvey Nichols g is onyour right at the end of Sloane Street[Sight: Harvey Nichols in Shopping], withan entrance for Knightsbridge Tube stationjust in front of it.

27 | WALKS |Chelsea – Old and newChelsea – Old and newTime: 1 hourSights include: Royal Hospital Chelsea,the National Army Museum, Tite Streetand Duke of York Square/Saatchi Gallery.This walk shows you some ofChelsea’s historic sights andtakes you through to Duke ofYork Square, a recently-builtdevelopment that has proved ahuge success.Start at Sloane Square Tube station.Cross over the road towards Hugo Boss.Continue past Hugo Boss and walk upto the traffic lights. At the traffic lights justafter Hugo Boss, turn left into LowerSloane Street.Walk down Lower Sloane Street. Lookout for the dragon on top of the PontStreet Dutch-style building at number 44.q You can see the Sloane Club at number52. Walk past the shops and theRose and Crown pub and continuetowards the trees at the end of LowerSloane Street. The Chelsea Barracks sitew (see Streets and Sights) is on theother side of the road, next to ChelseaBridge Road.Turn right into Royal Hospital Roadand cross over to walk on the left-handside of the street. The Royal HospitalChelsea’s Margaret Thatcher Infirmary eis on your left.When you reach London Gate, turnleft to go into the grounds. There’s apainted statue of a Chelsea Pensioner ona bench, and the café, museum andsouvenir shop are on the left as you walkdown. The State Apartments are on theright. Walk down to the trees at the endand go through Garden Gate.The peaceful Ranelagh Gardens r[Sight: Ranelagh Gardens in GreenSpaces] are on the left, which you canexplore if you wish. When you want tocontinue the walk, retrace your stepsback out of the grounds to RoyalHospital Road.Continue down Royal Hospital Roadand pause at Chapel Gate to see theRoyal Hospital Chelsea t from thefront. [Sight: Royal Hospital Chelsea.] Ifyou want to explore further, Light HorseCourt, Figure Court, College Court andthe Chapel are open Monday-Saturday10am-12pm, and 2pm-4pm, and theGreat Hall is open Monday-Saturday11am-12pm and 2pm-4pm. (For receptionand enquiries, go to Chelsea Gate,further up Royal Hospital Road).Continue along Royal Hospital Road.After passing the Royal Hospital Chelsea,you will see the National Army Museumy on the left. [Sight: National ArmyMuseum in Museums.] Visit if you like,and to continue the walk, return to RoyalHospital Road.Keep walking along Royal HospitalRoad and cross over Tite Street, whichwe will return to later. You will see someshops on your left, including FoxtrotOscar u (see Restaurants). Furtherdown Royal Hospital Road is RestaurantGordon Ramsay i (see Restaurants).When you reach Swan Walk, you will seea blue plaque with information aboutChelsea Physic Garden o [Sight:Chelsea Physic Garden in GreenSpaces]. Turn left down Swan Walk andthe entrance to the garden is on theright. Visit if you like, and return to SwanWalk to continue the walk.Continue down Swan Walk to ChelseaEmbankment [Sight: ChelseaEmbankment in Streets and Sights] and

28 | WALKS |turn left. Walk down the Embankmentand look out for the blue plaque onTurner’s Reach House, a number 9,marking the home of George FrederickSamuel Robinson, Marquess of Riponand Viceroy of India. [Sight: GeorgeFrederick Samuel Robinson]. Continuewalking along Chelsea Embankment andturn left into Tite Street.Walk down Tite Street, looking out fora stone plaque on the right marking JohnSinger Sargent’s house at number 31s. Continue down Tite Street, lookingout on the left for blue plaques to LordHaden-Guest at number 38, OscarWilde’s house at number 34 [Sight:Oscar Wilde], and Peter Warlock at number30 d [Sight: Peter Warlock].Keep walking down Tite Street, crossingover Royal Hospital Road andChristchurch Street, until you reachTedworth Square, where the trees are, atthe end of Tite Street. Turn right and seethe blue plaque marking the house onthe corner as Mark Twain’s house. f[Sight: Mark Twain].Walk to the end of the block and turnleft, walking past the green square with iton your left, until you reach the northeastcorner of the square. Turn right ontoSt Leonard’s Terrace, and walk down,crossing straight over the junction withSmith Street and Durham Place, withBurton Court on your right. Look out forthe white house on the left with the blueplaque – Bram Stoker’s house. g [Sight:Bram Stoker]St Leonard’s Terrace was also thehome of Alex Rider in the filmStormbreaker. [Sight: Film locations inFilm.]Turn left into Royal Avenue, which hasa gravel section in the middle with linesof trees on either side. There is a plaqueexplaining the history of Royal Avenue,which was laid out by Sir ChristopherWren, on the side of the house on theright-hand side of the avenue. Further upon the opposite side of Royal Avenue,there is a blue plaque to film directorJoseph Losey at number 29 h.Continue to the end of Royal Avenueto the King’s Road. The McDonald’s onthe left side of the junction betweenRoyal Avenue and the King’s Road usedto be the Chelsea Drugstore j [Sight:Chelsea Drugstore in King’s Road inStreets and Sights] and was a film locationfor A Clockwork Orange.Turn right on the King’s Road and walkup towards Duke of York Square, kwhich is on the right after Jigsaw.Walk into Duke of York Square [Sight:Duke of York Square], where there is astatue of Sir Hans Sloane. [Sight: SirHans Sloane in History.] The SaatchiGallery is on your right as you face thestatue. [Sight: Saatchi Gallery in Art.]You can either finish your walk here,visiting the Saatchi Gallery and exploringDuke of York Square, or make your wayback to the King’s Road and turn right towalk back up to Sloane Square Tubestation,Historic Chelsea andChelsea GreenTime: Part one (50 minutes), part two (20minutes), whole walk (1 hour 25 minutes,including walking between the two parts).Sights include: Cheyne Walk, Old ChurchStreet, Chelsea Old Church and ChelseaGreen.This walk takes you throughsome of Chelsea’s most historicstreets and into Chelsea Green.It is a fairly long walk, so youcan either do the whole walk orsplit it into two parts. The firstpart covers Cheyne Walk andChelsea Old Church, while thesecond includes ChelseaFarmers Market, St Luke’s andChelsea Green.Part oneStart on the King’s Road at the top ofFlood Street, which is opposite the purpleTrafalgar pub and is about 15 minutes’walk from Sloane Square Tube station.Turn left down Flood Street, which isnamed after Luke Thomas Flood, whoperformed many charitable works inChelsea. There is a memorial to him atSt Luke’s Church, which appears in thesecond part of this walk.Walk to the end of Flood Street, lookingdown Robinson Street (on the leftabout three-quarters of the way down) tosee Christ Church, q which is linked toSt Luke’s Church. [Sight: Christ Church]Continue to the end of Flood Streetand turn right into Cheyne Walk [Sight:Cheyne Walk]. This beautiful street hasbeen home to many famous people,although not all of their former homeshave blue plaques – for a detailed list,see Streets and Sights.Walk down Cheyne Walk. At number4, there is a blue plaque marking it asGeorge Eliot’s house w [Sight: GeorgeEliot]. Tudor House, e which was hometo Dante Gabriel Rossetti and AlgernonCharles Swinburne, is at number 16 andhas a blue plaque [Sight: Dante GabrielRossetti].There’s a little passageway calledCheyne Mews on the right just beforethe junction – look out for the plaque onthe wall about Henry VIII’s manor house.You can see down Cheyne Mews to thetrees at the end, and there’s also a littlesign just under the arch, reminding driversto walk their horses.Cheyne Walk is split by a junction,which you need to cross to continuedown Cheyne Walk. Cross over OakleyStreet, towards the Mercedes-Benzshowroom. In front of the showroom is astatue, Boy With a Dolphin r by DavidWynne. Continue past the showroomand continue down Cheyne Walk.When you reach Cheyne Row, whichruns off Cheyne Walk to the right justbefore the Cheyne Walk Brasserie (seeRestaurants), step into the gardens onthe left to see a statue of ThomasCarlyle. t Go back out of the gardensand walk down Cheyne Row to seeCarlyle’s House y at number 24 [Sight:Carlyle’s House]. It is a National Trustproperty and you can visit it at this pointif you wish.Continue to the end of Cheyne Rowand turn left down Upper Cheyne Rowto reach Lawrence Street. There’s a blueplaque at number 16 u noting thisstreet’s past as a site of the famousChelsea China pottery, and that authorTobias Smollett lived in part of the samebuilding.

29 | WALK |Historic Chelseaand Chelsea GreenTurn left down Lawrence Street andlook down a picturesque little streetcalled Justice Walk. Continue downLawrence Street past the Cross Keyspub i [Sight: The Cross Keys]. At theend of the street, Carlyle Mansions o[Sight: Carlyle Mansions] is on the left.Notice the white decorative carvings.Turn right, back onto Cheyne Walk,and walk to the end, where you can seeChelsea Old Church a [Sight: ChelseaOld Church]. There’s a statue of SirThomas More in the gardens to the leftof the church, and the large stonememorial to Sir Hans Sloane in thechurch grounds, by the gate markedPetyt Hall. Continue around the churchto the beginning of Old Church Street.You can see the front of the churchhere, with Roper’s Garden s [Sight:Roper’s Garden in Green Spaces] onyour left.Walk up Old Church Street. The Pig’sEar pub is on the left, and just after thaton the opposite side of the road is a yellowhouse (number 46) with some tilespainted with pretty country scenes. Lookdown the driveway next to it to see abuilding with a large cow’s head on thefront.Continue up Old Church Street.Manolo Blahnik is on the left. Walk to theend of the street to return to the King’sRoad.This forms a natural break in the walk,so you can either finish your walk here,or continue to part two of the walk byturning right to walk up the King’s Roadtowards Sydney Street. If you continuethe walk here, look out for Henry JBean’s d [Sight: Henry J Bean’s inPubs] on the right as you walk up theKing’s Road. It’s an old pub that used tobe the Six Bells, a favourite of Whistler’s.Dovehouse Green f [Sight: DovehouseGreen] is opposite it, on your left.Continue up to Sydney Street, justbefore Heal’s furniture shop.Part twoIf you are continuing the walk from partone, turn left off the King’s Road intoSydney Street. If you are starting thewalk here, start at the top of SydneyStreet, where it meets the King’s Road.Walk down Sydney Street. On the leftis Chelsea Farmers Market, g whichisn’t really a farmers’ market but rather acollection of huts containing interestingshops and restaurants, including theChelsea Gardener. Have a look aroundthe market if you like, and then return toSydney Street and continue walking.Spare a thought for the unfortunateFlying Man (see Streets and Sights) asyou walk along Sydney Street towards StLuke’s h [Sights: St Luke’s, St Luke’sGardens]. Walk past the church groundsand the sports facilities and turn rightonto Cale Street.Walk up Cale Street past the church,passing Tom’s Kitchen j (seeRestaurants) on the right. This is the areaknown as Chelsea Green, k althoughthe green itself is tiny today. There arelots of charming shops and boutiqueshere, from the Chelsea Fishmonger toJane Asher Sugarcraft. It has a villagefeel that is quite different from the bustleof the King’s Road.Continue walking until you reach thetriangle of shops surrounding ChelseaGreen. The tiny green has some benchesand is a pleasant place to sit.Turn right down Jubilee Place, a prettystreet that will take you back to theKing’s Road. Look out for Insider MichaelHoppen’s gallery l [Sight: Insiders,Michael Hoppen] as you approach theKing’s Road.When you reach the King’s Road, lookright to see the Chelsea Potter pub ;[Sight: Chelsea Potter in Pubs]. You caneither end your walk with a welldeserveddrink in there, or turn left towalk back up the King’s Road to SloaneSquare Tube station.

30 | INSIDER | Favourite placesThe Insider’s Guideto favourite placesBy Tom Aikens, one of Britain’sleading chefs. After working inMichelin-starred restaurantsincluding La Tante Claire andPied à Terre, he opened his ownrestaurant, Tom Aikens, inChelsea’s Elystan Street in2003. He won its Michelin starin 2004. His second Chelsearestaurant, Tom’s Kitchen,opened in Cale Street in 2006.(For more on Tom Aikens’restaurants, see Restaurants)The Chelsea Fishmonger,10 Cale StreetThis is the freshest and best fish inChelsea. It comes direct from the southcoast and Billingsgate Market. Theyalways have a wide range of line-caughtfish and sustainable produce, which isvery important to me.Dri Dri, Chelsea FarmersMarket, Sydney StreetThis ice cream shop is fairly new toChelsea. The recipes are Italian-basedand you'll find delicious favouriteflavours like frozen yoghurt, pistachio,strawberry and caramel. They are servedin cups, cones or large freezer packs totake away, which I like.old and new objects. A great place tofind something unique.Haynes Hanson & Clark,7 Elystan StreetHaynes Hanson & Clark is a thriving,independent wine merchant in Chelseaand has another shop in Gloucestershire.They have a great range of wines and Ibelieve they deliver all over the UK.Aubaine, 260-262 BromptonRoadIf I have time to take a little break in theafternoon, I love nothing more than grabbinga coffee and treat from Aubaine. It’sparticularly nice in the summer on theterrace.Felt, 13 Cale StreetFelt stocks contemporary jewellery, featuringbeautiful pieces by Giorgio Vigna,Taher Chemerik, Alyssa Norton, PippaSmall, Alison Evans, Marijke de Goeyand Jemima Rogers. They also sell greatfelt products and have an eclectic mix of

31 | THINGS TO DO | Art galleriesArt of the matterThings to doImage courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery,London, © Matthew Booth, 2009Whether you’re in the mood tocheck out a gallery, catch aground-breaking play, find a quietspot to sit or listen to aspellbinding concert, there’splenty to do in ChelseaGalleries showcasing photography,sculpture, drawings and paintings fromall ages are found splashed around theChelsea area, which is now a majorarts hub, partly thanks to the arrival ofmodern art mecca, the Saatchi Gallery9 Langton StreetAlong with its sister gallery on Lacy Roadin Putney, 9 Langton Street exhibitsfigurative and abstract contemporary art– including paintings and sculpture –from around 65 young London artists.The gallery is nestled in between theItalian restaurant La Famiglia (seeRestaurants) and Offer Waterman & Co(see below) and specialises in one-offshows by talented young artists who arehitting the ground running. Althoughthere are a few artists who have built uptheir reputation through longer-standingrelationships with the gallery, the majorityare new and previously unknown.Monday-Friday 10am-6pm, byappointment at weekends.9 Langton Street, SW10 0JLT: 020 7823 3606www.9langtonstreet.co.ukAndipa Gallery & AndipaContemporaryDescended from a family of art dealersand collectors that dates back to16th-century Venice, and based onWalton Street since 1967, the AndipaGallery owns an impressive catalogueof paintings, drawings, sculptures andrare prints by some of the biggestnames in modern and contemporary art.Matisse, Picasso, Warhol, Lichtenstein,Hockney, Damien Hirst and Banksyare all represented there. AndipaContemporary holds exhibitions in theAndipa Gallerylower ground gallery and was opened in2010 to showcase ‘fresh, innovative andaesthetically stimulating’ works by newartists from around the world.Monday-Friday 9.30am-6pm,Saturday 11am-6pm, by appointmentat other times.162 Walton Street, SW3 2JLT: 020 7589 2371www.andipa.comCricket Fine ArtCricket Fine Art was founded in 1996 byLeslie Pratt, who ran the gallery from herhome. In 2003 the gallery joined otherson Langton Street, before moving toPark Walk in 2010. It was created topromote and support talented contem-

32 | THINGS TO DO | Art galleriesporary artists. The idea that art is bestviewed hanging in a home environmentis integral to the gallery – hence its‘furnished home’ feel.Monday-Friday 10:30am-6pm,Saturday 11am-5pm, and by appointment.2 Park Walk, SW10 0ADT: 020 7352 2733www.cricketfineart.co.ukDaniel Hunt Fine ArtBased just south of Sloane Square,Daniel Hunt Fine Art is a world leader inthe field of sporting art and also has alarge collection of Italian and Dutch OldMasters, early British paintings and earlymarine paintings. Prices usually rangebetween £1,000 and £50,000, but somehigher value works are also available.Monday-Friday 10am-5pm, byappointment at all other times.60 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8BPT: 020 7259 0304www.danielhuntfineart.co.ukThe Gallery atAnthropologieFlying Colours GalleryWith a name that was picked fromRoget’s Thesaurus, the Flying ColoursGallery was founded in Scotland, cameto London in 1995 and is now based inChelsea. It promotes both emerging andestablished talent in British art.Exhibitions feature a range of figurativeand landscape works of art priced from£500 to £30,000.Monday-Friday 10.30am-5.30pm,by appointment at all other times.6 Burnsall Street, SW3 3STT: 020 7351 5558www.flyingcoloursgallery.comThe Gallery at AnthropologieIn line with Anthropologie’s reputation fordoing things its own way, the Gallery atAnthropologie allows the staff at itsKing’s Road clothing and home decorstore to share inspiring work fromunknown artists they admire with theircustomers. This means that exhibitionscover a wide spectrum of work, suchas Tom Stogdon’s water-erodedgarden sculptures, Chloe Harrison’shand-stitched tweed trophy heads orMoroccan Boucherouite rugs. The galleryopened in February 2010.Gallery hours: Monday, Wednesday,Friday, Saturday 10am-7pm, Thursday10am-8pm, Sunday 12pm-6pm.139 King’s Road, SW3 4PWT: 020 7349 3110http://www.anthropologie.eu/en/uk/kings-road-store/page/kingsroad/James Harvey British ArtThe Harvey family live above the gallery,and the upstairs hall and drawing roomare even used for larger exhibitions andentertainment. The gallery is situated inthe little cluster of galleries on LangtonStreet and promotes traditional figurativecontemporary art and British artistsdating back to the 17th century, particularlyfocusing on the less well-knownRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceThe London SketchClubThe London Sketch Club is a gentlemen’s clubfor artists, illustrators, graphic designers andarchitects that has its origins in the sketchingsection that formed in the Artists’ Society in1838. This became the Langham Sketching Clubwhen the society moved to 1 Langham Placein 1854.In 1898, the members fell out over whethermeals should be served hot or cold, and the ‘hotmeals’ supporters – including Phil May, TomBrowne and Dudley Hardy – split off and formedthe London Sketch Club.The new club first met at the Modern Gallery,175 Bond Street, and its first president wasGeorge Haité. After being based at severaldifferent sites in London, the club moved to itscurrent home in Dilke Street in 1957.Members have included Heath Robinson,Peter Blake, Gerald Scarfe and Michael Foreman.The club holds regular sketching nights andevening dinners, and often co-hosts events withChelsea Arts Club. It is staunchly traditional andhas resisted allowing women full access – eventoday, the only women admitted on drawingnights are the life models. Visits to the club areby invitation only.7 Dilke Street, SW3 4JE. T: 020 7352 8209 (barphone, Tuesday and some Friday evenings only).www.londonsketchclub.comThe London SketchClub in 1969artists of the 18th and 19th centuries.Tuesday-Thursday 10am-6pm, byappointment at all other times.15 Langton Street, SW10 OJLT: 020 7352 0015www.jhba.co.ukJonathan Cooper GalleryThe Jonathan Cooper Gallery is basedjust south of Fulham Road on Park Walkand has been promoting internationalcontemporary artists for more than25 years. The gallery specialises inbotanical and wildlife art in paintings,photography and sculpture, and holdssolo exhibitions throughout the year.Monday-Friday 10am-6pm, Saturday11am-4pm.20 Park Walk, SW10 0AQT: 020 7351 0410www.jonathancooper.co.ukKing’s Road GalleryAlong King’s Road to the west, almostas far as World’s End, the King’s RoadGallery exhibits European and Asiancontemporary art from both establishedand emerging artists. The gallery openedon the King’s Road in 1998, three yearsafter its Hong Kong sister gallery.Monday-Friday 10am-6pm,Saturday 11am-5pm, by appointmenton Sundays.436 Kings Road, SW10 0LJT: 020 7351 1367www.kingsroadartgallery.comLittle Black GalleryAfter the death of the iconic photographerBob Carlos Clarke in 2006, three peopleclose to him – his wife Lindsey, friendTamara Beckwith and agent GhislainPascal – came together to found theLittle Black Gallery, which opened in2008. One room at the gallery is permanentlydedicated to his work and thereare frequent guest exhibitions.Monday-Friday 11am-6pm, Saturday

33 | THINGS TO DO | Art galleries11am-4pm, by appointment at all othertimes.13A Park Walk, SW10 0AJT: 020 7349 9332www.thelittleblackgallery.comMica GalleryMica opened in the wake of the‘Arab Spring’ in 2011 with an exhibitionof contemporary Egyptian art from bothbefore and after the country’s revolution.The gallery specialises in – and is anacronym of – modern Islamic andcontemporary art which has beeninfluenced by Islamic culture or heritage.The Mica definition is pretty flexible –modern Islamic works are rooted intraditional calligraphy and geometry,while the contemporary artists are morebroadly inspired by Islamic culturalheritage at large from British, European,Arab, African and South Asian artists.By appointment only from 10am-6pmMonday-Friday and 11am-6pm onSaturdays.259A Pavilion Road, SW1X 0BPT: 020 7730 1117www.micagallery.comMichael Hoppen Gallery &Michael Hoppen ContemporaryGalleryThe Michael Hoppen Gallery specialisesin 19th, 20th and 21st-century photography.Based just north of the King’s Road,near the Chelsea Potter pub, the galleryhas been in Chelsea since 1993.The Michael Hoppen ContemporaryGallery – another major internationalphotographic gallery – opened in 2000and occupies the second floor of thesame building. It supports establishedand emerging contemporary artists.Monday-Friday 10.30am-6pm,Saturday 10.30am–5pm.3 Jubilee Place, SW3 3TDT: 020 7352 3649www.michaelhoppengallery.comRoyal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceChelsea Arts ClubChelsea Arts Club is a private members’club. The membership is divided intoordinary members who practice the visualarts – painters, sculptors, architects,photographers, designers and so on – andassociate members from related fields, suchas musicians, actors, gallerists and writers.The club was founded by artistsincluding sculptor Thomas Lee and painterJames Abbott McNeill Whistler as a rival toMayfair’s Arts Club. Originally based at181 King’s Road, the club moved to143 Old Church Street in 1902.The Chelsea Arts Ball, held from 1908 to1958, was a themed public fancy dress ballthat became progressively more lavish –and raucous – and grew to occupy ChelseaTown Hall and then the Royal Albert Hall.It was originally held for Mardi Gras, buteventually moved to New Year’s Eve. It wasbanned in 1959, but was revived in 1984/5.Club membership was opened to womenartists in 1966. Would-be members need tobe proposed and seconded by people whohave known them for more than two yearsand who have been members of the clubfor more than two years.The outside of the building is sometimespainted to mark an event, such as the the70th anniversary of the end of the Blitzin 2011.143 Old Church Street, SW3 6EBT: 020 7376 3311www.chelseaartsclub.comArtworkfor theChelseaArtsClubannualdinner1968Northcote GalleryThe Northcote Gallery, which has a sistergallery on Northcote Road in Battersea,specialises in modern British andinternational contemporary paintings andsculpture and hosts ten solo exhibitionsfrom established and emerging artistseach year.Tuesday-Saturday 11am-6pm, Sunday1pm-4pm.253 King’s Road, SW3 5ELT: 020 7351 0830www.northcotegallery.comOffer Waterman & CoEstablished in 1996 amid the smallcluster of art galleries next to theLa Famiglia restaurant on LangtonStreet, Offer Waterman is a leader inthe fields of 20th-century British paintings,drawings and sculpture, and canalso offer expertise in American andEuropean, Impressionist, modernand contemporary art.Monday to Friday 10am-6.30pm, byappointment on Saturdays.11 Langton Street, SW10 0JLT: 020 7351 0068www.waterman.co.ukProud ChelseaThe Proud Group was launched byAlex Proud in 1998 and includes amusic venue in Camden, a speakeasystylevenue in the City, a gallery justoff the Strand and Proud Chelsea –a photographic gallery that aims tointroduce high-quality photography toa mainstream audience.Proud uses popular themes to createaccessible exhibitions with a distinct rock‘n’ roll emphasis – the Sex Pistols, BobMarley, Bob Dylan, the Libertines and‘the Rock n Roll Years’ have all been thefocus of exhibitions.Daily 10am-7pm, until 8pm onWednesdays.161 King’s Road, SW3 5XPProud ChelseaT: 020 7349 0822www.proudonline.co.uk/Saatchi GalleryIn 2009 and 2010 the Saatchi Galleryheld five of the six most attendedexhibitions in London – the only one toachieve more visitors was Van Gogh atthe Royal Academy of Arts.Charles Saatchi opened his originalSaatchi gallery in 1985 in a disused paintfactory in St John’s Wood before movingto County Hall on the South Bank in2003. The gallery was forced to closein 2005 after a row with County Hall’sowners and was without a home forthree years.In 2008, the Saatchi Gallery reopenedat the Duke of York’s Headquarters –a vast 70,000 sq ft space that wasa perfect blank canvas to display paintings,sculpture and installations. Thegallery exhibits contemporary art fromhome-grown talent, often previouslyunseen, and international artists thathave rarely or never before exhibited inthe UK.

34 | THINGS TO DO | Art galleriesRecent exhibitions include The EmpireStrikes Back: Indian Art Today, AbstractAmerica: New Painting and Sculpture,and The Shape of Things to Come:New Sculpture, each reportedly drawingaround 4,000 visitors a day. Entry to allshows is free of charge.The Gallery Mess (see Restaurants) isworth checking out, and the gift shop isgreat for interesting presents for artytypes. Rooms at the gallery can be hiredfor events.Daily 10am-6pm, last entry at 5.30pm.Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road,SW3 4RY. T: 020 7811 3080www.saatchi-gallery.co.ukStephanie Hoppen GalleryStephanie Hoppen – mother to famousgallery owner Michael and interiordesigner Kelly – has been working at 17Walton Street since 1981. She believesin a practical approach to art, cuttingaway jargon and theory, where the oneconsideration for buyers should bewhether there is ‘love at first sight’. Thegallery displays works from British andinternational contemporary artists andphotographers.Tuesday to Friday 10am-6pm,Saturday 12pm-5pm, Monday byappointment.17 Walton Street, SW3 2HXT: 020 7589 3678www.stephaniehoppen.comNocturne in Blackand Gold – theFalling RocketAmerican-born artist James AbbottMcNeill Whistler lived at many placesin Chelsea (see Streets and Sights)and his painting Nocturnein Black and Gold – the FallingRocket, which depicts fireworks atCremorne Gardens over BatterseaBridge, resulted in a costly libel caseagainst the critic John Ruskin in 1877.Whistler had exhibited the paintingat the Grosvenor Gallery and Ruskinhad called him a ‘coxcomb’ for asking‘two hundress guineas for flinging apot of paint in the public’s face’.Whistler sued himfor libel, saying it was an ‘artisticarrangement’ rather than a view of thegardens, and that he didn’t ask twohundred guineas for the timeit took to paint, rather ‘for the knowledgeI have gained in the work of alifetime’.Whistler won the case, but was onlyawarded a farthing in damages andhad to pay his own costs,forcing him to sell his new housein Tite Street, designed for him byE W Godwin, and bankrupting him.Time travelFrom the Carlyle’s House to Chelsea FC,these museums will give you an insightinto the past and the presentNational Army MuseumThe National Army Museum is a bitdifferent to most other museums – ituses the objects in its collection as away to link the past and present, ratherthan to examine history as a separateentity. It aims to tell the story of theBritish Army – and the Indian Army, upuntil 1947 – as a whole, right up to thepresent day. The online exhibition aboutthe Army in Helmand, Afghanistan, andits permanent exhibition in the museum,Conflicts of Interest, 1969-present,show its dedication to covering currentconflicts as well as historic ones. Itreceives grant aid from the Ministryof Defence and it pays ground rent ofprecisely one guinea a year to its landlord,the Royal Hospital.The collections look at both the Army’srole in history around the world and thepersonal experiences of servicemenand women. The exhibitions, particularlyon modern or current conflicts, give anintimate portrayal of what it is like toserve in the military, and doesn’t shyaway from the psychological impact.It links into popular culture, too – forexample, War Horse: Fact & Fictionexplores Michael Morpurgo’s novel.The new Kids’ Zone soft-play area isa great addition, helping young childrento learn in a fun way, with the Early YearsFoundation Stages at its heart. There arealso plenty of family events. The educationdepartment is excellent.In fact, the museum is so popular thatan expansion is planned, with a glassatrium, a roof terrace, a restaurant, newNationalArmyMuseumeducation facilities and an overhaul ofsome of the galleries in the pipeline.An interesting series of celebrityspeakers runs at the museum, fromauthors to anthropologists and first-handaccounts from soldiers, along withlunchtime lectures. There’s sometimes aticket fee for talks, but most of themuseum’s events are free.Open daily 10am-5.30pm.Free admission.Royal Hospital Road,SW3 4HTT: 020 7730 0717www.nam.ac.ukChelsea FCChelsea FootballClub’s museum atStamford Bridge tellsthe story of the club fromits beginnings in 1905 to itsglobal reach today. It features memorabilia,interactive experiences including theadidas Shooting Gallery – which teachesvisitors how to shoot the perfect goal –and a showcase of shirts from some ofthe team’s greatest players. The museumworks in conjuction with an updatedstadium tour route and shop.

35 | THINGS TO DO | MuseumsA ChelseaPensionerdressed in thefamous uniformOpen 10.30am-5pm (last entry 4pm) –on match days the opening hours will varydepending on kick-off time. Open until6pm (last entry 5pm) in July and August.Museum only prices: Adult (16+ years)£10, child (five-15 years, under fives freeof charge) £8, concession (senior citizenand students with valid ID) £9, familyticket (two adults and two children) £32.Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road,SW6 1HS. T: 0871 984 1955 (generalenquiries), 0871 984 1905 (tickets)www.chelseafc.comCarlyle’s HouseThe house of Scottish satirical writerThomas Carlyle and his wife Jane, preservedsince 1895. They were a celebrityRoyal Hospital Chelsea(For more about the Royal Hospital Chelsea, see Streetsand Sights)The Royal Hospital, home of the the Chelsea Pensioner, has asmall museum in the grounds. It originally opened in 1866 andits collection is mostly made up of objects left by former In-Pensioners. There are artefacts associated with the Duke ofWellington, a diorama of the Royal Hospital in 1742, a reconstructionof a typical berth in the Long Wards (which are notopen to the public) and a collection of more than 2,100 medals,among other items. Visitors can also see the Parade Chair,which was presented to Queen Elizabeth II by the RoyalHospital, and the Sovereign’s Mace, which the Queen presentedto the hospital in 2002. You can even book a guided tourwith a Chelsea Pensioner (£65 per tour, which contributesdirectly to the Royal Hospital’s funds to benefit the welfare ofthe Chelsea Pensioners. Tours begin 10am and 1.30pm,Monday-Friday).The Museum and Souvenir Shop are open to the publicMonday-Friday, 10am-5pm, excluding bank holidays and officialRoyal Hospital events, such as Founder’s Day. Individuals andgroups of up to 10 people can visit the Royal Hospital Chelseafor free (larger groups must book a tour on the number below).Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4SR. T: 020 7881 5200 (switchboard),020 7881 5298 (to book a tour).www.chelsea-pensioners.co.ukcouple in the Victorian literary world, andThomas influenced other famous authorsof the time, including Charles Dickensand John Ruskin. Jane was a wellknownletter-writer in her own right.The house is kept as it was in the 1850s,when Robert Tait painted a portrait ofthe couple in their home. It’s a chance topeek into the past of this very creativepart of Chelsea.Open Wednesday-Sunday and bankholiday Mondays, 11pm-5pm, lastadmission 30 minutes before closing.Admission: Adult £5.10, child £2.60,family £12.80.24 Cheyne Row, SW3 5HLT: 020 7352 7087www.nationaltrust.org.uk/carlyleshouseStar qualityWith two luxury cinemas, two worldclasstheatres and more movie cameosthan Alfred Hitchcock, Sloane Squareand the King's Road are unmissabledestinations for fans of stage and screenChelsea TheatreLaunched in 1953, Chelsea Theatrecommissions and presents new workfrom leading international companies andartists, such as Goat Island, Lone Twin,Ron Athey, Annie Sprinkle, PacittiCompany, Julia Bardsley, DriesVerhoeven and Kazuko Hohki. Recentcollaborations have involved exchangeswith theatres in Vienna, Moscow, Rio deJaneiro and New York.Under artistic director FrancisAlexander, the focus since 2004 hasbeen on the production and presentationof live art, creating work where artistscross between visual, time-based andperformance practice. The theatre hasgained support from organisationsincluding Arts Council England, theBritish Council and the Live ArtDevelopment Agency.World’s End Place, King’s Road, SW100DR. T: 020 7352 1967www.chelseatheatre.org.ukCineworld ChelseaCineworld Chelsea is a four-screencinema showing the latest blockbustersand independent films. The building isone of the oldest of Cineworld’s sites,and first opened as a cine-variety venuein 1910, and has continued to screenfilms right up until the present day.Cineworld Chelsea also has a programmeof alternative content, includinglive feeds of the Met Opera, seasonalshowings such as The Rocky HorrorPicture Show and golden oldiefavourites.Ticket prices: Adult £10.50 after 5pmMonday-Friday and all day Saturday andSunday, £8 before 5pm Monday-Friday,child (14 and under) £6.60, senior/student£7, family £29 after 5pm Monday-Friday and all day Saturday and Sunday,£24.50 before 5pm Monday-Friday.Weekend prices apply to bank holidays.There is an additional cost for 3D films(£2.30 for adults, £1.50 forchild/senior/student/unlimited, £5.60 forfamily ticket, 3D glasses 80p per pair).On-street parking only.279 King’s Road, SW3 5EWT: 0871 200 2000www.cineworld.co.uk/cinemas/10Curzon ChelseaA 700-seat luxury cinema, CurzonChelsea shows both big releases andsmaller arty, independent and foreignlanguage films. It also shows live screeningsof opera and theatre from the NewYork Metropolitan Opera and London’sNational Theatre, among others.It’s a location full of cinematic history,built on the original site of film pioneerWilliam Friese-Greene’s studios andlaboratory. He patented a moving imageCurzon Chelsea

36 | THINGS TO DO | Film and theatrecamera in 1839, and experimented withcolour and motion pictures. By 1934, ahuge cinema – the Gaumont Palace –had replaced his studio. A bas relief ofhis image can still be seen on the façadeof the building.Designed by William E Trent andErnest F Tully, it had seating for 2,502and included a fully-equipped stage, arehearsal room, dressing rooms and aCompton theatre organ. It became theGaumont Theatre from 1937 and wasmodernised in 1960. It was renamed theOdeon in 1963 but closed its doors in1972. The foyer and stalls becameHabitat, while the stage became flatsand offices.A new Odeon cinema opened inSeptember 1973, seating 739, occupyingthe former balcony area, but it closedin 1981. After the cinema had been darkfor two years, distributor Artificial Eyetook it over and renamed it the ChelseaCinema. It joined Curzon Cinemas in2006, and became the Curzon Chelseaafter extensive refurbishment in 2010mboasting the biggest screen outside theWest End. The auditorium has 713 seats,some of which are luxury ‘Pullman’seats, and the cinema also has a bar.Ticket prices: Adults £10.50, Cineaste(Curzon members) £8.50, Pullman seats£15/£13 Cineastes (Monday-Friday after5pm, Saturday and Sunday after 2pm).Cinesaver (Monday-Friday 2pm-5pm)£7.50 adults, £6.50 Cineaste, £11/£9Pullman seats. Early bird (open to 2pm)£7.50 adults, £6 Cineaste £5, £9/£8Pullman seats. Children (under 15) £6 atall times. There is a surcharge of £2 onall tickets for 3D films. The cinema is currentlyinaccessible to wheelchair users,but staff can offer assistance with stairs ifyou phone in advance to discuss yourneeds.206 King’s Road, SW3 5XPT: 0330 500 1331www.curzoncinemas.com/cinemas/chelsea/Film locationsWith its diverse architecture and rich history,Chelsea has always been in demand as alocation for films. Here are just a few of themovies that have scenes shot in the areaBlow-Up (1966)Michelangelo Antonioni’s thriller sees glamorousfashion photographer Thomas (DavidHemmings) showing his portfolio to hisagent, Ron (Peter Bowles), in El Blason,8-9 Blacklands Terrace, and attending aparty on Cheyne Walk.A Clockwork Orange (1971)The McDonalds on the King’s Road used tobe the Chelsea Drugstore, which doubledas a record store visited by Alex (MalcolmMcDowell) in Stanley Kubrick’s iconic film.Withnail and I (1986)Monty, played by Richard Griffiths, lives at35 Glebe Place and is visited by hisnephew Withnail (Richard E Grant) and hisfriend, played by Paul McGann and namedonly as ‘…& I’ in the end credits. BruceRobinson’s black comedy is a cult favouriteand counts Beatle George Harrison as oneof its executive producers.Match Point (2005)Scarlett Johansson’s American actresscharacter Nola auditions for a role at theRoyal Court Theatre in Woody Allen’s thriller.A Good Year (2006)The iconic Bluebird Café on the King’sRoad features in Ridley Scott’s romanticcomedy.Alex Rider: Stormbreaker (2006)Adapted from Anthony Horowitz’s novel,this film stars Alex Pettyfer as teenage spyAlex Rider, who lives in St Leonard’sTerrace.Royal Court TheatreThe Royal Court is a non-commercialtheatre renowned for its work championingnew writing and staging landmarkplays, such as John Osborne’s LookBack in Anger and Edward Bond’sSaved. Its ongoing writers programmesand festivals, including Rough Cuts andthe Young Writers Programme, havehelped to launch the careers of newvoices such as Mike Bartlett, LucyPrebble, Polly Stenham, Laura Wade andBola Agbaje.The Royal Court – originally called theCourt Theatre – was built by WalterEmden and opened in 1888. It becamefamous for its George Bernard Shawseasons. It was used as a cinema from1932-1935, after which it closed for awhile, and was damaged in the SecondWorld War. After the war, it presentedlight musical reviews.In 1952, former music hall performerAlfred Esdaile acquired the lease of thetheatre and the land next to SloaneSquare underground station from theCadogan Estate, and reopened thebuilding as a theatre club. The EnglishStage Company, led by artistic directorGeorge Levine, made the Court its homein 1955. Look Back in Anger opened atthe theatre in 1956 – the start of a newera of modern British drama.The Royal Court has also been instrumentalin the abolition of censorshipon the London stage, with Osborne’sA Patriot For Me and Bond’s Saved andEarly Morning being refused a licenceto be performed in public by the LordChamberlain’s Office in the 1960s. Therole of official censor was abolished in1968.In 1966, the Young People’s Theatrewas set up to develop and produce newwriting by writers under 25 years old,and the Young Writers Festival, now aregular event, was launched in 1973.The Theatre Upstairs, one of the firstArtisticdirectors at theRoyal CourtTheatre2007 – 2013: Dominic Cooke1998 – 2006: Ian Rickson1992 – 1998: Stephen Daldry1979 – 1992: Max Stafford-Clark1977 – 1979: Stuart Burge1975 – 1977: Robert Kidd andNicholas Wright1972 – 1975: Oscar Lewenstein1969 – 1972: William Gaskill,Lindsay Andersonand Anthony Page1965 – 1969: William Gaskill1956 – 1965: George Devine

37 | THINGS TO DO | Film and theatreNotable RoyalCourt TheatreproductionsLook Back in Anger by John Osborne(1956)The Chairs by Eugene Ionesco (1957)Endgame by Samuel Beckett (1958)Roots by Arnold Wesker (1959)The Knack by Ann Jellicoe (1962)Saved by Edward Bond (1965)The Lion and the Jewel by WoleSoyinka (1966)Over Gardens Out by Peter Gill(1969)The Contractor by DavidStorey (1969)As Time Goes By byMustapha Matura (1971)The Rocky Horror Showby Richard O’Brien(1973)The Island byAthol Fugard(1973)Cloud NineFrom the original RoyalCourt Theatre production ofThe Rocky Horror Showby CarylChurchill(1979)Bent by Martinblack box studios opened by a mainstreamtheatre, launched in 1969.The Royal Court’s building closed temporarilyfor redevelopment in 1996, withthe company moving to the West Enduntil it reopened in 2000. A book aboutthe Royal Court’s life – The Royal CourtTheatre: Inside Out by Ruth Little andEmily McLaughlin – is available in thebookshop or from the online shop. Playtexts are also available.Recent successes at the Royal Courthave included Jez Butterworth’s awardwinningJerusalem, which transferred toSherman (1979)Top Girls by Caryl Churchill (1982)Rita, Sue and Bob Too by AndreaDunbar (1982)Rat in the Skull by Ron Hutchinson(1984)Road by Jim Cartwright (1986)Our Country’s Good by TimberlakeWertenbaker (1988)Death and the Maiden by Ariel Dorfman(1991)Blasted by Sarah Kane (1995)East is East by Ayub Khan-Din (1997,performed at the Ambassadors duringthe Royal Court building’s redevelopment)Attempts On Her Life by Martin Crimp(1997, performed at the Ambassadors)The Weir by Conor McPherson (1997,performed at the Ambassadors)Plasticine by Vassily Sigarev (2002)A Number by Caryl Churchill (2002)Fallout by Roy Williams (2003)Motortown by Simon Stephens (2006)Gone Too Far! by Bola Agbaje (2007)That Face by Polly Stenham (2007)Shades by Alia Bano (2009)Enron by Lucy Prebble (2009)Jerusalem by Jez Butterworth (2009)Clybourne Park by Bruce Norris (2010)The Heretic by Richard Bean (2011)the West End and New York's Broadway.The Royal Court’s artistic director,Dominic Cooke, has announced thathe will step down from the post in April2013 to focus on freelance work. Hissuccessor has not yet been announced.The Jerwood Theatre Upstairs is thestudio theatre, while the Jerwood TheatreDownstairs is the main house. All seatsare £10 on Mondays, available on theday of performance from 9am online,10am in-person.Sloane Square, SW1W 8AS. T: 020 75655000. www.royalcourttheatre.comTuned inWhether you'd like to hear the RoyalPhilharmonic in a spectacular concerthall or enjoy live jazz with your jumboshrimp, Chelsea's many music venuesshould hit the right note606 ClubThe 606 Club is a jazz club restaurantwhich hosts live British-based musicseven nights a week. Run by musicianSteve Rubie, the club is set in a basementvenue and has been hosting a varietyof jazz, latin, soul, groove, R&B andblues acts since 1976. It moved to itscurrent location to suit higher demand in1988.There is a bar, but non-members canonly be served alcohol with a ‘substantial’meal. Membership costs £95 peryear and you must have visited the clubat least three times before being accepted.There is also a music charge of £10(Sunday to Thursday) or £12 (Friday andSaturday), which goes straight into theband’s pocket and is added on to yourbill.Sunday-Thursday 7pm-12am, Friday-Saturday 8pm-2am.90 Lots Road, London SW10 0QDT: 020 7352 5953www.606club.comCadogan HallCadogan Hall is the home of the RoyalPhilharmonic Orchestra and the grandestof Chelsea’s music venues.It was designed by Robert FellowesChisholm as a New Christian ScienceChurch in 1907 and could draw congregationsof up to 1,600. Almost 90 yearslater, in 1996, the congregations weredwindling and change was needed. TheCadogan Estate bought the hall in 2000606 Cluband converted it into a music venue, withacoustics, atmosphere and technologyhigh on the list.The hall can seat an audience ofaround 900 and offers an eclectic mix ofmusic including classical, opera, choral,jazz, rock, pop and world music. See thewebsite for listings.The box office is open Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm (8pm on performancedays) and on Sundays (only onperformance days) from 3pm-8pm.5 Sloane Terrace, London, SW1X 9DQT: 020 7730 4500www.cadoganhall.comCaffé Concerto (see Cafés)Chelsea Old ChurchClassical concerts are held at ChelseaOld Church most months (avoidingbusier times in the church calendar suchas Christmas and Easter).The singers and musicians for the

38 | THINGS TO DO | Musicmost part come from the professionalsaffiliated with Chelsea Old Church,although other artists also appear. Thereare operatic arias and requiems on someevenings. It is worth calling or checkingthe website for details of upcomingevents.64 Cheyne Walk, SW3 5LTT: 020 7795 1019www.chelseaoldchurch.org.ukHoly Trinity Sloane SquareThe Holy Trinity Church at Sloane Squarehosts concerts throughout the year andprides itself on the diversity of the musicat its Sunday morning services – fittingfor a church that the former PoetLaureate and Chelsea resident JohnBetjeman described as the ‘cathedral ofthe arts and crafts movement’.Holy Trinity also has a fine organ,which was built in 1891 by JW Walker &Sons. See the website for details ofupcoming concerts and services.Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7730 7270www.holytrinitysloanesquare.co.ukChelsea musiciansThomas Arne, the composer of thetraditional British song Rule,Britannia!, lived at 215 King’s Roadduring the final years of his life.Percy Grainger – a famouspianist and composer who was saidto have detested the piece that hewas most famous for, CountryGardens – lived at various addressesin Chelsea between 1901 and1914.Peter Warlock – originally PhillipArnold Heseltine – died from gaspoisoning at 30 Tite Street onDecember 17, 1930.Holy TrinitySloane SquareRalph Vaughan Williams, whocomposed favourite English hymnssuch as Come Down O Love Divine,lived at 13 Cheyne Walk from 1905to 1929.Wolfgang Amadeus Mozartstayed on Five Fields Row (nowEbury Street) in 1765 for sevenweeks. He wrote two symphonieswhile he was there and also performedat Ranelagh Gardens – all atthe age of nine.For more notable figures wholived and worked in Chelsea, seeStreets and Sights.Royal Hospital ChelseaThe Royal Hospital hosts the RHCConcerts series every autumn,showcasing internationally celebratedmusicians as well as promising youngartists. The concerts are held in the WrenChapel to meet high demand for tickets.See the website for more information.Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4SRT: 020 7881 5324www.chelsea-pensioners.co.uk/rhcconcert-seriesBig Easy Bar.B.Q & CrabshackDiners can enjoy live jazz, rock, R&B andsoul music at Big Easy every night in themain dining room from 8.30pm onSundays-Thursdays and 9pm on Fridaysand Saturdays.332-334 King’s Road, SW3 5URT: 020 7352 4071www.bigeasy.co.ukPizza Express – the PheasantryLive music kicks off at Pizza Express atthe Pheasantry early on most evenings.There is an eclectic mix of music – predominantlyjazz, but also includingswing, blues, cabaret, latin, pop and awide range of other genres and styles.The website has an up-to-date andcomprehensive list of the line-up for themonths ahead.For details about The Pheasantry’shistory, see Streets and Sights.152 King’s Road, SW3 4UTT: 0845 6027 017pizzaexpresslive.co.ukCadogan HallChelsea in musicChelsea has featured in many songsand music pieces. Here are just a fewChelsea Bridge is a 1941 jazz standardby Billy Strayhorn, which hasbeen recorded by artists includingDuke Ellington, Ben Webster, TonyBennett and Ella Fitzgerald.The Rolling Stones song You Can’tAlways Get What You Want on their1969 album Let it Bleed mentions theChelsea Drugstore, which was on theKing’s Road: “I went down to theChelsea Drugstore/To get your prescriptionfilled.”The Tom Petty and theHeartbreakers song King’s Roadappeared on their 1981 album HardPromises. The first verse is: ‘Well theyput me out on the old King’s Road/Ididn’t know which way to go/Therewas people all around/Wearin’ funnylookin’ clothes/Some boys, somegirls, some I don’t know.’

39 | THINGS TO DO | Green spacesGarden partyYou don't have to look too hard to finda calm, green space to transport youfrom all the bustle of the King's Road.Here are our pick of some of the area'sgreatest gardensRoyal Hospital – South Groundsand Ranelagh GardensRanelagh Gardens opened in 1742 andwere designed as pleasure gardens, apopular attraction of the time. A Chinesehouse was built and a huge rotundastaging classical music concerts provideda grand centrepiece. A young Mozartperformed there in 1764. However, by1805 the site had deteriorated and wasclosed.The Royal Hospital acquired the gardensand a summer house was built forthe pensioners there in 1834. JohnGibson, the designer of Battersea Park,redesigned the gardens in 1860, alongwith the South Grounds – famous as thesite of the Chelsea Flower Show, whichRanelagh Gardenstakes place in May. Other events andfairs are also held there.The grounds include sports areas forfootball, tennis and netball (see Sports).Opening times: April 1-30 10am-7.30pm, May 1-August 31 10am-8.30pm, September 1-30 10am-7pm,October 1-30 10am-5pm, November 1-March 31 10am-4.30pm, open from2pm on all Sundays.Royal Hospital Chelsea, Royal HospitalRoad, SW3 4SR. T: 020 7881 5200(Switchboard, Monday-Friday, 9am-5pm)www.chelsea-pensioners.co.ukOpen Garden Squares WeekendOpen Garden Squares Weekend is a rarechance to see some of the hidden gemsof Chelsea, with gardens not normallyopen to the public welcoming visitors.The Royal Borough of Kensington andChelsea is one of the biggest contributorsand around 80 gardens in the areatook part last year, including MarkhamSquare and Paultons Square.The event will take place on June 9-10in 2012.www.opensquares.orgChelsea CommonChelsea Common used to be around 30acres, but as Chelsea developed, buildingsand roads encroached on the land,and this pretty garden is the last remainingpiece.Cale Street, SW3Chelsea EmbankmentThere are several small, pleasant gardensnear the Thames, including theChelsea Embankment Gardens outsideChelsea Old Church and the St ThomasMore Gardens, which feature a statue ofMore. The gardens were created after SirJoseph Bazalgette built the Thamesembankmentbetween 1869 and 1874.Chelsea Embankment, SW3Chelsea Physic GardenThis is a different kind of garden – onethat’s not only beautiful, but useful.There are more than 4,800 kinds ofplants in the four-acre space, and thereis an emphasis on those that have apractical purpose.There are plants that are used in medicine– both in pharmaceutical treatmentsand in cultures throughout the world –perfumery, aromatherapy and rare vegetables.Collections are grouped aroundlittle signs marking uses like ‘dermatology’and ‘parasitology’, and there areearthy-smelling glasshouses of ferns andmore exotic plants.The garden was founded by theSociety of Apothecaries in 1673 andleased to them for £5 a year in perpetuityfrom 1722 by Sir Hans Sloane – on thecondition it stayed a physic garden. Thesum is still paid to his heirs at Cadoganby the charity that runs Chelsea PhysicGarden today. Sir Hans himself is immortalisedin a statue in the grounds.It is like a living museum, and there isa walk showing the work of differentpeople associated with its history, includingPhilip Miller, William Hudson, SirJoseph Banks and William Forsyth. TheGrade II*-listed pond rock garden, createdfrom stones from the Tower ofLondon, Icelandic lava, fused bricks andflint, was completed in 1773.The garden has a wide-ranging eventsprogramme, from workshops in beekeepingto photography and makingcosmetics. There is a café (see Eatingsection) and the garden welcomes peoplewith disabilities (telephone in advancefor details about access).Adults and senior citizens £9;students, unemployed and children (five-15 years) £6; Friends of the Garden andcompanions of disabled visitors areadmitted free. Assistance dogs only.Maximum of two children allowed peraccompanying adult.Opening times: April 1-October 31,Tuesday-Friday 12pm-5pm, Sundaysand bank holidays 12pm-6pm, lastadmission 30 minutes before closing.66 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HST: 020 7349 6458www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

40 | THINGS TO DO | Green spacesCremorne GardensThis garden has good views and commemoratesthe former riverside pleasuregardens, which opened in 1845 andclosed in 1877. The Cremorne PleasureGardens hosted entertainment includingconcerts, balloon ascents and fireworks.Whistler captured the scene inNocturne in Black and Gold – the FallingRocket, which became the subject of alibel case (see Art).Cremorne Gardens was regarded assomewhere where respectable womenwould not wish to be seen alone, and itfaced heavy criticism from its neighbours.Staffed garden, open 7.30am untildusk. Public toilet facilities.Lots Road, SW10Dovehouse GreenA gift to the borough from Sir HansSloane in 1733, this was used as a burialground until 1824. It was developed in1947-50, when the small area wasopened to the public and the mortuarywas demolished.The Chelsea Society and the RoyalBorough of Kensington and Chelseaturned the space into a garden in 1977for the Queen’s Silver Jubilee andrenamed it Dovehouse Green. Thegarden was reworked again in 2003 forthe Queen’s Golden Jubilee. It is a quietspot to sit and escape the commotion ofthe King’s Road.Dovehouse Street, SW3Roper’s GardenClose to Chelsea Old Church, thisgarden was once an orchard, whichSir Thomas More gave to his daughter,Margaret, when she married WilliamRoper in 1521. The buildings weredestroyed by a parachute mine in April1941 and a sunken garden was createdon the site in March 1964.An ancient cherry tree was planted init to mark the visit of Gunji Koizumi, a‘The Female Blondin’Cremorne Pleasure Gardens drew crowds towatch spectacles, and one of these was anattempt by Madame Genevieve, or ‘theFemale Blondin’ as she was billed, to crossthe Thames from the gardens to Batterseaon a tightrope in August 1861. It nearlyended in disaster.After she had started crossing thetightrope, the guy ropes were cut by someoneso they could steal the lead weights.She managed to avoid danger by slidingdown a rope and reaching a boat on theThames. The tried again a week later andsuccessfully completed the stunt.martial arts master who introduced judoto the UK in 1918.Cheyne Walk, SW3St Luke’s GardenThe gardens next to St Luke’s Churchhave beautiful flower displays, a playgroundand a games area (see Sports).They are a popular place to sit.The site was consecrated in 1812 tocope with the parish’s growing populationand it was used as a burial grounduntil 1857. It became a public garden in1881 and the gravestones were movedto form a boundary wall. The gardenswere developed in 1887, and the churchand the gardens are Grade II listed.Open 7.30am until dusk.Sydney Street, SW3.Good sportsSweat it out on the squash court, testyourself on a treadmill, or leave it to theprofessionals from the comfort of thestands at Stamford Bridge with thisrun-down of some of the area’s stunningsport and leisure venuesChelsea FCNow one of the top teams in the world,Chelsea Football Club was founded in1905 by two brothers, HA and JT Mears.They entered the second tier of theEnglish Football Leagues and immediatelybegan drawing big crowds – on GoodFriday that year, their match againstManchester United was attended by67,000 people.After only two seasons in existence,Chelsea FC reached Division One – thehighest level of competition in the Englishgame at the time. They found success inthe 1950s, 1960s and 1990s, winningthe League Division One title in 1955 andFA Cup titles in 1970, 1997 and 2000.On July 2, 2003, Roman Abramovichbought the club and made it a globalpowerhouse overnight. In his first offseasonperiod, Abramovich spent morethan £100 million on players. During theRussian oligarch’s ownership of the club,Chelsea has finished either first or secondin all but one Premier League seasons(2008-9). It also won three FA Cuptitles, reached the final of the UEFAChampions League (2007-8), and haslifted the Football League Cup and theFA Charity/Community Shield twice.The Stadium, Stamford Bridge, seats41,841 spectators and prices range from£41 to £87 for a Premier League fixture.Tickets for matches are often hard tocome by – they only go on general saleafter being offered to members and season-ticketholders. If any are available,they appear two weeks from the date ofthe fixture.Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road, SW61HS. Ticketing sales & enquiries: 08719841 905 (UK), +44 207 835 6000 (Intl.)www.chelseafc.comSport centres andfacilitiesChelsea Sports CentreInside its charming exterior, the ChelseaSports Centre houses a swimming pooland has facilities for five-a-side football,basketball, badminton and table tennis.There’s also a gym (see Fitness Centres).Monday-Friday 6.30am-10pm,Saturday 8am-8pm, Sunday 8am-10pm.Chelsea Manor Street, SW3 5PLT: 020 7352 6985www.gll.org/centre/chelsea-sportscentre.aspChelseaSportsCentre

41 | THINGS TO DO | Sport – facilitiesCremorne RiversideThis outdoor activity centre providescanoeing and kayaking on the tidalThames for young people aged nine to19. They also offer introductions towhite-water, surf and sea kayaking.There are sessions for adults too. Adultbeginner courses run from March toOctober and fitness sessions can bebooked on Wednesdays (6.45am-8.45am) and Saturdays (by arrangement).To take part in the fitness sessions,you must have completed the adultbeginner course or arrange a two-hourinduction paddle. Hours vary dependingon the time of year.Cremorne Gardens, Lots Road, SW100QH. T: 020 7349 9591www.rbkc.gov.uk/cremorneRoyal Hospital South GroundsAs well as being the staging area for theannual RHS Chelsea Flower Show, theRoyal Hospital South Grounds offers twofootball pitches, two tennis courts, onenetball court (which is overlaid on thetennis courts) and a sports pavilionequipped with public toilets.Duke of York’sSquare AthleticsTrackIn 1953, Roger Bannister, the first man torun a mile in under four minutes, movedhis training to the athletics track at theDuke of York’s Square Headquarters,which now houses the Saatchi Gallery.He successfully achieved the record onMay 6, 1954. The track is now mainlyused by local school children and is notopen to the public.Cremorne Riversideoffers kayakingsessions on the ThamesThe tennis courts are available toeveryone for casual booking, with nomembership required. Open from7.30am until dusk. For more informationon any of the facilities, call the sportsbooking line below.Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4SRT: 020 7602 2226St Luke’s GardensIn the shadow of the early 19th-centuryNeo-Gothic church, St Luke’s Gardenshas two ‘Multi-Use Games Areas’, orAstroturf pitches. For more information,call the sports booking line at ChelseaSports Centre: 020 7352 6985.Sydney Street, SW3Fitness centresChelsea Sports CentreThe gym at the Chelsea Sports Centreoffers a range of cardiovascular andresistance training equipment as well asfree weights and a stretching area.Monthly memberships are available, aswell as a pay-as-you-go service.Monday-Friday 6.30am-10pm,Saturday 8am-7.30pm, Sunday 8am-10pm.Chelsea Manor Street, SW3 5PLT: 020 7352 6985www.gll.org/centre/chelsea-sportscentre.aspKXKX Gym (pronounced ‘kicks’) is beautifullydesigned, with a well-equipped gymon the ground floor, four studios andthree private studios for pilates, yogaand private general training. It is strictlymembers-only and there are no publishedfees (a membership consultant willguide you through the options). The onlypart of KX that is open to non-membersis the spa (see Spas panel).151 Draycott Avenue, SW3 3AL. T: 0207584 5333www.kxgym.co.ukLA FitnessThe LA Fitness chain describes its SouthKensington gym as the jewel in itscrown. Facilities include a sauna, steamroom, swimming pool, cardiovascularand Technogym equipment, as well asgroup classes. It offers short-term dealsas well as long-term memberships.Monday-Thursday 6.30am-10pm,Friday 6.30am-9pm, Saturday-Sunday9am-8pm.63/81 Pelham Street, SW7 2NJT: 0843 170 1021www.lafitness.co.uk/gym/london-southkensington/Peak Health Club & Spa at theJumeirah Carlton TowerThe really impressive thing about thePeak is the view. The club is located onthe ninth and 10th floors of the five-starCarlton Tower hotel, with views to thenorth and south across London.Launched in 1982, The Peak’s membershipgives you access to a 20-metrestainless steel indoor swimming pool,The Peak Health Clubjacuzzi and spa (see Spas) as well as aclub restaurant and lounge. There’s a2,335 sq ft gym, an aerobics studio, aspinning studio and a golf simulator thatallows players to tackle some of theworld’s best-known courses without everleaving Chelsea. The Peak is open toguests and members, who also haveaccess to tennis courts in private gardensin Cadogan Square.Monday-Friday 6.15am-10pm,Saturday-Sunday 7.30am-9pm.Jumeirah Carlton Tower, on CadoganPlace, SW1X 9PY. T: 020 7858 7300www.jumeirah.com/en/Hotels-and-Resorts/Destinations/London/Jumeirah-Carlton-Tower/Health-Spa/

42 | THINGS TO DO | Sport – fitness centresPowertone StudiosPowertone Studios specialise in PowerPlate workouts which use ‘vibrationtechnology’ to improve your muscularendurance and core stability. They alsoprovide a variety of Powertone equipmentto complement your workout.There are many different membershipoptions, including monthly memberships,annual memberships and pay-as-you-gooptions.Monday-Thursday 7.30am-8pm,Friday 7.30am – 5pm, Saturday 9am-1pm.1st Floor, Kings Walk Mall, 122 King’sRoad, SW3 4TR. T: 020 7584 4911www.powertonestudios.com/chelseapowerplate-studio.htmlSP & CoOften described as the world’s mostexclusive gym, Stephen Price & Co islimited to only 30 members. StephenPrice himself was once a professionalcricketer and his vision is to make thekind of integrated healthcare previouslyonly available to elite athletes available toothers. Each member receives one-ononeattention from a group of experts instrength and fitness, yoga, pilates, physiotherapy,nutrition and aromatherapy –there is even a Neuro Muscular Dentist.All of the equipment and facilities arestate-of-the-art. The altitude chamber isdescribed as ‘Europe’s most advanced’and the rooms are designed by awardwinninginterior designer Kelly Hoppen.But this luxury comes at a cost – membershipfor a year will set you back£5,000, and on top of that your time withthe experts will be charged at an hourlyrate of between £75 and £150. Theteam also operates beyond the gym atestablishments including the DorchesterHotel Spa and the Berkely Health Club &Spa.3 Jubilee Place, SW3 3TDT: 020 7351 3332www.spandco.co.ukThe Chelsea ClubBased at Stamford Bridge, ChelseaFootball Club’s stadium, the ChelseaClub’s facilities include a spa, swimmingpool, sauna, steam room, lounge,restaurant and crèche. Workouts canbe performed in the gym or in studioclasses and there is also a full conciergeservice.Monday-Friday 6am-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 9am-8pm.Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road, SW61HS. T: 020 7915 2200www.thechelseaclub.comReach for the spasIf sport isn’t your thing or you just fancya bit of pampering, Chelsea has plenty ofsoothing spas where you can recharge.Here are just a few – some salons alsoprovide spa facilities and treatments(see Shopping)Amanda Lacey LondonIndependent skincare therapist AmandaLacey developed her own range of productsand treatments based on naturaloils and gentle, effective solutions nearlyten years ago. Based in Chelsea, shehas become famous for her facials.PO Box 63725, SW3 9BBT: 07590 436029www.amandalacey.comAntara Spa at the Chelsea ClubA new holistic spa at the Chelsea Club,bringing together Ayurvedic, Oriental andEuropean wellness therapies.Monday-Friday 6am-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 9am-8pm.The Chelsea Club, Stamford Bridge,Fulham Road, SW6 1HS. T: 020 7915 2215www.thechelseaclub.com/antara-spa/welcome/Balance the ClinicA clinic offering a wide range of health,beauty and body treatments, fromacupuncture and colon hydrotherapy tobody wraps, massages and semi-permanentmake-up.Monday-Thursday 9am-8pm, Friday9am-7pm, Saturday 9am-6pm, Sunday10am-5.30pm.The Courtyard, 250 King’s Road, SW35UE. T: 020 7565 0333www.balancetheclinic.comfacials, waxing, laser services, nail careand body treatments, including the tripleoxygen treatment and IPL hair removal.Monday-Wednesday 9.30am-8pm,Thursday-Friday 9.30am-9pm, Saturday9.30am-8pm, Sunday 11am-7pm.60 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DDT: 020 7590 6146www.blissworld.co.uk/spa/spa-411/locations/bliss-london.aspxThe Chelsea Day SpaThe Chelsea Day Spa opened in 2009and is on two floors of a townhouse justoff the King’s Road, giving it a boutiquefeel. It has four treatment rooms and anail bar, and offers massage therapy,body treatments, waxing, nail therapy,spray tanning and facials. The expressNew York Manicure is a good deal if youwant a quick spruce-up (£12.50 for upto 30 minutes). The spa also providesspecific treatments and grooming formen.Monday-Thursday 9am-8pm, Friday9am-7pm, Saturday 9am-6pm, Sunday12pm-6pm.Second and third floor, 69a King’s Road,SW3 4NX. T: 020 7351 0911www.thechelseadayspa.co.ukSP & CoBliss LondonThe London site of international spachain Bliss, this has eight multi-purposetreatment rooms and offers massages,The Chelsea Day Spa

43 | THINGS TO DO | SpasGina Conway Aveda LifestyleSalon and SpaGina Conway moved from San Franciscoto London in 2001 and opened a seriesof award-winning combined salon andspas that provide hair treatments, designand colour as well as spa services suchas facials, massages, body, hand andfoot treatments, tinting, waxing andthreading and eyelash extensions.Monday 9am-7pm, Tuesday-Friday9am-9pm, Saturday 9am-7pm, Sunday10am-6pm.199 King’s Road, SW3 5EDT: 020 7352 1013www.ginaconway.co.ukLiz Earle Skincare andTreatmentsFounded in 1995 by Liz Earle and KimBuckland, Liz Earle Naturally ActiveSkincare has a flagship store with treatmentrooms in Duke of York Square.Services include the Liz Earle SignatureFacial (90 minutes, £85), skincare tutorial(45 mins, £45) and back and body massages.The team at the store can alsogive advice about your personal skincare.Monday 10am-7pm, Tuesday10.30am-7pm, Wednesday-Saturday10am-7pm, Sunday and bank holidays11am-5pm.38-39 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7881 7750uk.lizearle.comLush SpaPitched as a ‘traditional English countryspa’ and set in a country kitchen beforeyou enter the treatment room, the LushSpa is a bit different and has a range ofquirky treatments which are a bit like aspa equivalent of a Heston Blumenthaldish. Try the Lush Sound Bath – an hourof relaxation and sound therapy (£70),including a hot and cold stone facial anda scalp massage.123 King’s Road, SW3 4PLT: 020 7349 9648www.lush.co.uk/spaNYR Organic Beauty SpaNeal’s Yard Remedies is famous for itsorganic, natural health and beauty products,and its spa at the King’s Road followsthis ethos. It offers facials, bodytreatments, waxing, manicures and pedicuresand men’s treatments, as well as asauna and CACI treatments using microcurrents.It is also a carbon-neutral companyand uses organic towels, cottonwool and natural cleaning products.Monday 11am-7pm, Tuesday 10am-6pm, Wednesday 10am-7pm, Thursday-Friday 10am-6pm, Saturday 10am-7pm,Sunday 11.30am-6pm.124b King’s Road, SW3 4TRT: 020 7225 2050.www.nealsyardremedies.com/nyr-organic-beauty-spaThe Peak Health SpaDay spa and beauty treatments on theninth floor of the Jumeirah Carlton TowerHotel, including Pevonia Facials, men’streatments and the Voya ‘Tangle Me Up’Liz Earle Skincareand Treatmentssignature experience – a body wrap inorganic seaweed, head massage, andhour-long facial (105 minutes, £130).Monday-Friday 6.15am-10pm, weekends7.30am-9pm.Jumeirah Carlton Tower, on CadoganPlace, SW1X 9PY. T: 020 7858 7300www.jumeirah.com/en/Hotels-and-Resorts/Destinations/London/Jumeirah-Carlton-Tower/Health-Spa/Sen ChelseaA centre offering traditional Chinesemedicine treatments, including Chineseherbal medicine, acupuncture, acupressure,reflexology and other techniques.There is also a Sen on the fourth floorof Harvey Nichols (T: 020 7201 8695).Monday-Friday 11am-7pm, Saturday10am-7pm, Sunday 12pm-6pm.149 King’s Road, SW3 5TXT: 020 7352 9333www.senhealth.com/uk/homeThe Spa at BluebirdThe Spa at Bluebird tailors treatments toeach client and works with MichelineArcier Aromatherapie for essential oilblends and techniques. Most therapiesare suitable for men and women, andinclude facials, massage, body treatments,manicures and pedicures andwaxing. New clients for treatments needto have an initial consultation (30 minutes,£25), including skin and lifestyleanalysis, to help the therapist choose thebest treatments and products for you.Try the express back massage (30 minutes,£55) if you are new to massages orwant a quick way to wind down, or thejet lag massage (105 minutes, £125) ifyou’ve just flown in.Monday-Saturday10am-7pm, Sunday12pm-6pm.350 King’s Road, SW3 5UUT: 020 7349 5090www.theshopatbluebird.com/category/spa-and-beauty/treatments/It’s allgoing onChelsea boasts a busy year-roundschedule of events, including the FlowerShow, one of London's biggest antiquesevents, and the ever-popular AffordableArt Fair. The dates given in our guide arefor 2012Affordable Art FairMarch 14-18, October 24-28The Affordable Art Fair is based just southof the river in Battersea and displayscontemporary works of art by a widerange of artists, each with a price ceilingof £4,000. A free shuttle bus service runsfrom Sloane Square to the fair.www.affordableartfair.com/battersea/homeArt LondonOctober 4-8Art London is held annually at the RoyalArt London. Credit:Alex Brenner

44 | THINGS TO DO | EventsHospital, Chelsea. It showcases works ofart from London and UK-based galleries,as well as from galleries around theworld in Australia, the Middle East, Asiaand North America. Tickets can be purchasedon the door and cost £12 (£18for two). The catalogue costs £5 and issold separately.www.artlondon.netChelsea Antiquarian Book FairRan in early November in 2011, 2012dates TBAThe Chelsea Antiquarian Book Fair is abook-lovers’ haven. It has been held inChelsea for more than 20 years and runsat the Chelsea Old Town Hall eachNovember. More than 75 exhibitorspresent a wide range of items, from 16thto 21th-century works, priced between£10 and £10,000.www.chelseabookfair.comChelsea Antiques FairMarch 21-25, September 19-23The Chelsea Antiques Fair isnow the oldest fair of its kind inBritain. It has been operatingsince 1950 and is based in theChelsea Old Town Hall. The fairhas 38 stands of specialistsoffering a wide variety of qualitywares, including furniture, jewellery,porcelain, Orientalpieces and fine art. Entrycosts £5 and prices rangebetween £200 and £20,000.www.penman-fairs.co.ukChelsea Art FairApril 20-22The 38 exhibitors at theChelsea Art Fair are allrespected British galleriesand many representinternationalartists. The fair showscontemporary art in aRHS Chelsea Flower Show, © RHS Imagesrange of different media, including paintings,drawings and sculpture. Pricesrange between £500 and £20,000.www.chelseaartfair.orgRHS Chelsea Flower ShowMay 22-26The RHS Chelsea Flower Show beganas the ‘Great Spring Show’ in the mid-19th century and has been based at theRoyal Hospital nearly every year since1913.Over the five days, a variety of exhibitsfalling under five different award categories– Flora (garden and floral exhibits),Hogg (exhibits of trees), Knightian(exhibits of vegetables, including herbs),Lindley (exhibits of special educational orscientific interest) and Grenfell (exhibits ofpictures, photographs, floral arrange-Tips for visiting the RHSChelsea Flower ShowIf you’re in London when the FlowerShow is on, it makes a wonderful dayout, whether you’re a keen gardener ornot. The sea of colours is spectacularand there are lots of unusual plants andstylish garden designs. Here are a fewtips for attendees.• Wear comfortable shoes. You’ll be onyour feet for a long time and it’s surprisinghow far you can end up walkingwhen you’re looking around.• Take a bottle of water and check theweather forecast. If it’s forecast to besunny, make sure you take sunscreenand a hat. If you’re not so lucky andrain is forecast, make sure you take awaterproof jacket – you often see verydamp and miserable-looking ladieswalking around Chelsea who chosefashion rather than practicality at arainy show.ments and floristry) – are put on display.There are also special awards, includingBest Show Garden, Best City Garden,RHS Floral arrangement trophies and theRHS President’s Award. The showgardens are often spectacular and gainthe most publicity, with media coverageincluding television broadcasts.There is a big sell-off of plants at theend of the show (from 4pm on May 26).The RHS Chelsea Flower Show is aworld-famous, extremely popular event,so visitor numbers are capped at157,000.It is essential to book in advance eitherby telephone or online if you would liketo attend.Children under five are not admitted tothe show and no animals except guideor assistance dogs are allowed.• Work out which gardens or exhibitsyou want to see the most and visitthem first. It’s easy to get caught upin the crowds and there’s lots to see,so you’ll miss things if you’re justambling through.• Take a digital camera so you candocument any plants you want totrack down later. And, of course, soyou can capture your day.• It sounds obvious, but take antihistaminesand any other medication youmight need if you suffer from hayfever,allergies or asthma. That’s a lot ofpollen in one place.• If the crowds get too much or you’regetting tired, take a break at one ofthe picnic/seating areas. You’ll enjoyit more if you take a ten-minutebreather and then continue withthe show.There is no re-entry to the showgroundonce you have left.www.rhs.org.uk/shows-events/rhs-chelsea-flower-show/2011Chelsea FringeMay 19-June 10This ambitious event is opening for thefirst time in 2012 and is hoping to buildon the popularity of the RHS ChelseaFlower Show by catering for a wideraudience of potential gardeners as wellas existing ones.Events planned for the Fringe include‘secret gardens’ in the backs of lorrieswhich will park on street corners beforerevealing gardens, ‘floral boats’ floatingdown the Thames and ‘pop-up gardens’which will appear in unexpected locations.www.chelseafringe.com

45 | THINGS TO DO | EventsChelsea Gifts for Christmas FairRan December 16-18 in 2011, dates for2012 TBAIf you have some last-minute Christmasshopping to do, the Chelsea Gifts forChristmas Fair at the Chelsea Old TownHall could offer an exotic and quirky giftfrom one of its 50 stalls.www.chelseachristmasgifts.comPaule Ka taking part in Chelsea in BloomChelsea in BloomMay 21-26Another event which coincides with theChelsea Flower Show, Chelsea in Bloomsees local retailers transform their shopsand shop windows into ambitious, stunningfloral exhibits. The RoyalHorticultural Society judges namedTiffany & Co. on Sloane Street the ‘BestFloral Display’ in 2011 when the themewas ‘Oriental Chic’. Guided tours offervisitors an insight into the themes andideas behind each display.www.chelseainbloom.co.ukChristmas Fair at ChelseaPhysic GardenDecember 1-2Large heated marquees offer shelterfrom the winter weather in the groundsof the Chelsea Physic Garden for theChristmas Fair. It is not only a chance tobrowse the wide range of gifts offered bystallholders, but also a rare chance tosee the garden in winter when it is usuallyclosed to the public.www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk/fairs/fair.htmFrock Me! Vintage FashionApril 29, June 10, September 9, October28, December 2Frock Me! has been based at ChelseaOld Town Hall since 2004 and claims tobe London’s hottest vintage fashionevent. Kate Moss, Laura Bailey and KylieMinogue have all shopped at the showand there is something on offer fromevery era. Prices range from one poundup to several hundred.www.frockmevintagefashion.comLittle Chelsea Antiques FairMarch 5-6, June 11-12The Affordable Antiques Fair, as the LittleChelsea Antiques Fair is known, isrenowned for offering something foreveryone, with items costing from tenpounds to more than £30,000. It hasbeen based at Chelsea Old Town Hallsince 1980 and the UK-based dealersoffer a diverse range of antique and decorativeitems such as furniture, jewellery,glass and porcelain, textiles and scientificinstruments, as well as other noveltyitems.www.littlechelseaantiquesfair.co.ukFrock Me! Vintage FashionHandmade in BritainOctober 16-18Handmade in Britain was set up to supportand promote UK-based designermakers.It organises a contemporarycraft and design fair at Chelsea OldTown Hall, where designer-makersHandmadein Britainexhibit a wide variety of wares includingglass, jewellery, furniture, greeting cards,stationery, metalwork, ceramics, sculpture,woodwork, prints and etchings.www.handmadeinbritain.co.ukIl Circolo – Italian ChristmasBazaar: 12th – 13th November2012November 12-13Il Circolo is a registered charity that promotesItalian culture in the UK throughscholarships and events. One such eventis the Italian Christmas Bazaar, which isheld each year at Chelsea Old Town Halland 10% of all sales and entrance feesgo towards scholarships for talented students.www.ilcircolo.org.ukOpen House LondonSeptember 22-23Open House London is an architecturalcelebration of London’s buildings, placesand neighbourhoods. It is a free eventwith a huge catalogue of buildings toview – in 2011 more than 780 buildingswere available for viewing, one of whichwas Holy Trinity Church, just off SloaneSquare.The printed programme becomesavailable in August each year, as doesthe search facility on the website.www.londonopenhouse.orgOpen Garden Squares Weekend(see Green Spaces)Untitled Artists FairJune 1-3Untitled is the biggest artists' fair in theUK. There are no agents and no galleriesinvolved, and 100 per cent of all salesincome goes directly to the artists themselves.It is based in Chelsea Old TownHall and each year as many as 170artists display and sell their wares.www.untitledartistsfair.co.uk

46 | INSIDER | Open spacesChelsea Physic Garden,Royal Hospital RoadWalk past Wren’s glorious Royal Hospital(the finest brick building in London?)towards the river, past Gordon Ramsay’sflagship restaurant and arrive at anunpretentious brick wall. Hiding behindthat long, low wall is the ultimate secretgarden – the Chelsea Physic Garden.It has been there since 1673, when theriver was its southern boundary andships moored there with plants discoveredfrom all around the world.Explore and enjoy the greatest varietyof trees and rare plants in London: themagical miniature world of the Victorianfernery, a special land of natural medicineand perfumed flowers. Where better,ever, anywhere, to take tea and cake ona summer’s afternoon?Albert BridgeI’m so glad the bridge is back in actionand reborn out of its scaffold shroud ofthe past two years. I missed it like an oldfriend.My favourite gateway into Chelsea (Igrew up south of the river), it is alwaysThe Insider’s Guideto open spacesBy Paul Davis,local architectand lover ofLondon past andpresent. Onceupon a timehe raced carsbut now, forrelaxation, hegardens andplants treesthe prettiest of London bridges. At night itsparkles in the Thames, like the thresholdinto a magic kingdom.Go and stand on it at dawn, see the sunrise over Battersea Park and the grand oldPower Station, the seabirds wading at lowtide, stillness and space in the middle ofLondon. At sunset, sometimes the waterseems to catch fire, all the reds of a paintbox colouring in the water around thehouseboats. Even the chimneys of LotsRoad Power Station appear romantic inthe evening light. No wonder Turner andWhistler loved to paint this panorama,available to us all.Chelsea Arts Club,Old Church StreetAnother treat only found in Chelsea.Beyond the snooker table, the piano, therandom bucket leather chairs in the bigbow window, you will find the garden.The crumpled flagstones characterfullyshabby, the rose arbour glorious in whiteblooming all summer long. Explore thegarden’s corners, the romantic secretnook hidden behind the statue of Diana.Reinvented (in part) only recently, thequirky thatched arcade under the cleverlycropped cupressus trees, a columnarcolonnade, provides shelter from the rainwhile supping wine, smoking cigars anddebating the vagaries of artistic directions.Ranelagh Gardens,Royal Hospital Chelsea,Royal Hospital RoadThis shady retreat is a place of absurdextremes. In June, it is one of the mostdensely populated places during theChelsea Flower Show. That is a wonderfulevent and part of what makesChelsea world-class. But for 11 monthsof the year, it is almost forgotten.Walk through the London Gate of theRoyal Hospital, past Light Horse Courtand into Ranelagh Gardens and don’t besurprised if you find yourself in your ownprivate park, alone. The idea I most love,as you walk towards the river in leafysolitude, is that 270 years ago this wasthe site of London’s most fashionablepleasure ground.Designed by William Jones and paintedby Canaletto, the Rotunda, a magnificent120ft diameter domed pavilion, was partof the riverside setting with Wren’smasterpiece.This is where the ‘masquerade’ wasintroduced to the English public, whenoysters were common fare, whereprinces and dukes mingled with peoplefrom all walks of life.Mozart played there as a nine-year-oldwhile living in Ebury Street just aroundthe corner. Nell Gwyn was there andcourtship was in the air.The entrance fee was two shillings andsixpence then – now it is free.Chelsea GreenThe heart of an urban village in the middleof a world city. A tiny triangle of openspace, dissected by a path lined withbenches and adorned with two cherrytrees (best at springtime in pink blossom).Most remarkable is the atmosphereand character created by useful, everydayand still elegant (it is Chelsea, afterall) shops. A real fishmonger, open-frontedwith traditional grey Carrara marble slabs;the pie (Man) shop; a local butcher; Finn’sfine food delicatessen; Jane Asher’s cakeshop and an excellent wine merchant.Especially essential, there is a goodpharmacy, newsagent, dry cleaner andshoe repairs, a picture framer and, mostimportantly (this little boy never grew up),a wonderful toy shop. The few clothesboutiques here are not to be found onevery high street or miserable mall.Tom Aikens and others provide varietyin restaurants and not a Starbucks insight – hooray!

47 | INSIDER | Places for childrenThe Insider’s Guideto places forchildrenWhen I’m not working or undertakingcharity work, one of my top Chelseahangouts is KX, a private members’ gymand spa. My favourite restaurants in thearea are Ilia (96 Draycott Avenue) for itsincredible selection of antipasti, EightOver Eight (392 King’s Road) for its livelybar and pan-Asian menu (the chilli saltsquid and duck salad are two of myfavourite dishes anywhere) and my friendRichard Caring’s place Daphne’s (112Draycott Avenue) for its seasonal Italianfood and atmosphere.Igloo, 227 King’s RoadAs a mother to two little girls nearing theage of three, I find myself in children’sshops all the time and Chelsea has areally good range of stores for everythingthe little ones need. Igloo on the King’sRoad is fantastic for great shoes andboots and it’s also a brilliant place to buygifts for all my friends’ kids. The range ofclothes is great as they stock two of myfavourites – Petit Bateau and I LoveGorgeous. The staff are all super-helpfuland friendly, which always makesshopping with little ones all the moreBy Jenny Halpern Prince,who has lived in Chelsea andhad her office on the King’sRoad for more than 15 years.She started Halpern, one ofLondon’s leading consumer PRagencies, in her kitchen and ithas grown into an agency thatlooks after some of the world’sleading brands. Jenny sits onthe boards of Great OrmondStreet Hospital Children’sCharity, Tate, Women’s Aid andThe Legacy List. She is alsothe governor of the LondonAcademy and a mentor forcreative start-upsThe Little WhiteCompanypleasant. At the moment my two arebudding ballerinas and Igloo has abeautiful range of tutus by Angel’s Face.Trotters, 34 King’s RoadTrotters, also on the King’s Road, hasnailed what kids’ shops should be. Whileparents stock up on clothes and more,the children can have their hair cut andare kept entertained seated in front ofa giant aquarium. It’s a good place tostock up on books as well as hair clipsand other accessories too, like hats,scarves and gloves.The Little White Company,4 Symons StreetThe Little White Company is perfect forbedding and the basics, and everythingis so fresh-looking. My two would neverhave been able to sleep as little oneswithout their Little White Company growbags and even now still love the pyjamasfrom there.Natural History Museum,Cromwell RoadAway from the shops, when the kids andI are after some entertainment, my firstport of call is the Natural HistoryMuseum. I am addicted to this place –probably even more so than my children– due to my fascination with animals.Nothing beats walking round theimpressive building and ending up inthe room with the blue whale replica in it.It amazes me every time.Science Museum,Exhibition RoadThe Science Museum is also a must-seeas there are endless installations andNatural History Museum Wildlife Gardendisplays for the kids to interact with. Likeme and the Natural History Museum, thekids never get bored of the ScienceMuseum and spend days chatting abouteverything they have seen there eachtime we go.Kensington GardensI love to get out the house and into thefresh air with the girls and KensingtonGardens is hands-down the best park incentral London for me, especially forskating/scooting, feeding swans andducks and the unique pirate ship andplayground. Many a happy day has beenspent here with the children and my dog.I always bump into other friends whilestrolling around, especially when the sunis out. Regardless of whether it’s flip-flopor welly boots weather, it’s hard to dragthe children away.

48| HOTELS AND APARTMENTS |Staying powerHotels andapartmentsThe main bar at The CapitalThere is no shortage of places tostay in Chelsea, from self-cateringapartments to luxury hotels wherechampagne is served at six. Here,we check out some of the placesto check-inBasil Street Apartments****Luxury serviced apartments close toHarrods. There are eight apartments,ranging from studios to three-bedrooms,featuring kitchens, washer/dryers, anda relaxation area. There is a minimumstay of three nights.15 Basil Street, SW3 1AXT: 020 7631 8288www.basilstreetapartments.comThe Beaufort****A privately-owned, four-star boutiquehotel, close to Harrods and HarveyNichols. Set in a tree-lined cul-de-sac,it has 29 individually decorated rooms.Room rates include a complimentaryafternoon cream tea and a drink at theresidents’ bar.33 Beaufort Gardens, SW3 1PPT: 020 7584 5252www.thebeaufort.co.ukThe Capital*****Opened by Scottish proprietor DavidLevin in 1969, this five-star boutiquehotel is still family-run. Its CapitalRestaurant was voted one of the fivebest hotel restaurants in London byZagat in 2011 (see Restaurants).Special events and masterclasses arerun at the hotel throughout the year.The Capital Apartments in BasilStreet are available for longer stays,from short to long lets, and havekitchens and washing machines as wellas housekeeping.22-24 Basil Street, SW3 1ATT: 020 7589 5171www.capitalhotel.co.ukRoom ratesDue to the changeable nature ofroom rates - which depend onavailability, dates required andany special deals - we have notincluded a price guide for hotels.Please contact the hotels directly orsearch online for the current rates.Drinks at The Capital

49 | HOTELS AND APARTMENTS |The Cadogan*****‘A thump and a murmur of voices –(“Oh why must they make such adin?”)As the door of the bedroom swungopenAnd two plain-clothes policemen camein:“Mr Woilde we’ave come for tew takeyewWhere felons and criminals dwell.We must ask yew tew leave with usquoietlyFor this is the Cadogan Hotel.”'John Betjeman’s 1937 poem sumsup both the Cadogan’s prestigiousreputation and one of its most famousmoments – the arrest of Oscar Wildein 1895.The writer, poet and notable wit wasstaying in room 118 and, ignoring theAfternoontea at TheCadoganpleas of his friends to flee, remaineddrinking at the hotel until his arrest forhomosexual activities. He was sent toReading Gaol, the beginning of the endfor one of Victorian society’s mostcolourful characters. He died in Paris,destitute, in 1900, aged 46 (for more onOscar Wilde, see Tite Street in Streetsand Sights).The hotel also includes what was oncethe home of Lillie Langtry, actress andlover of the future king of England,Edward VII. She lived at 21 Pont Streetfrom 1892 to 1897 – even after she soldthe house and it was absorbed into thehotel in 1895, she would stay in her oldbedroom. In fact, she was so attachedto the rooms that her ghost is said tohaunt her old living quarters. TheCadogan’s restaurant is in her formerhome (see Restaurants).These days the five-star Cadogan is acalm and luxurious place to stay close toGucci, Tiffany, Harrods and HarveyNichols, and its Edwardian grandeur is areminder of its past stories. It has privategardens, tennis courts and a fitness studio.75 Sloane Street, SW1X 9SGT: 020 7235 7141www.cadogan.comChelsea Cloisters***A three-star property with more than200 studio, one-bed and two-bedserviced apartments. Guests can bookfor stays of one night up to many weeks.Each apartment has its own kitchen anden-suite bathroom.Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DWT: 020 7589 5100www.chelseacloisters.co.ukDraycott Hotel*****Named England’s Leading BoutiqueHotel in the 2010 World Travel Awardsand a runner-up for Europe’s LeadingBoutique Hotel in 2011, the Draycottaims to be a luxurious home from home.It has 35 large rooms and suites,all individually decorated and filled withantiques, and each is named after atheatrical figure – such as Sheridan,Coward and Grenfell. Every suite has afully fitted-out kitchen, and many haveworking gas fireplaces. Modern touchesinclude air conditioning, satellite television,CD systems and complimentary wi-fi.The five-star townhouse hotel occupiesthree red-brick Edwardian homes andhas its own garden square and a privatedining room. The 'English country retreat'feel is summed up by the complimentarydrinks served every day at set times inthe Drawing Room – tea and biscuits at4pm, champagne at 6pm and hotchocolate from 10pm. If only all homescould be like that.26 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RPT: 020 7730 6466www.draycotthotel.comDurley House*****Boutique hotel Durley House has 11suites furnished in a classic period style,all 45 sq m or more, some with kitchens.It has the air of a private house, withLord Durley’s portrait looking on asguests enter the hotel.Reservations include complimentaryuse of the Peak Health Club and Spa atthe Jumeirah Carlton Tower, a fiveminutewalk away, for one guest.Durley House does not have a restaurantbut offers 24-hour room service withdishes prepared by its own chef, deliveredto suites by a traditional dumbwaiterservice lift. Champagne afternoontea is served in the lounge (£24.50 perperson).115 Sloane Street, SW1X 9PJT: 020 7235 5537www.durleyhouse.comJumeirah Carlton Tower*****The five-star Jumeirah Carlton Tower, alandmark on the Knightsbridge skyline,celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2011.Designed by Michael Rosenauer, whoalso created the Time Life Building onNew Bond Street, it was the tallest hotelin London when it opened in 1961.Its modern design and spectacularviews made it the backdrop to photoshootsby fashion designer Mary Quantand Twiggy’s Mini campaign, andcelebrities including Princess Diana,Michael Jackson and Madonna havestayed there. It also made the headlinesin 1975 when the IRA shot at the hotel –luckily, the bullets passed betweenThe Draycott Hotel

50 | HOTELS AND APARTMENTS |diners in the Rib Room restaurant andno one was hurt.The hotel has three restaurants, twobars and the Peak Health Club and Spa,which has a gym and a 20-metre indoorrooftop swimming pool (see SportsCentres and Facilities and Spas).It was nominated for Europe’s LeadingBusiness Hotel in the World TravelAwards in 2011.For more on the Rib Room Restaurantand Bar, see Restaurants.Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PYT: 020 7235 1234www.jumeirah.com/Hotels-and-Resorts/Reiseziele/London/Jumeirah-Carlton-TowerThe Levin*****The Levin is a five-star boutique hotelwith just 12 rooms, a stone’s throw awayfrom Harrods. It is owned and operatedby David Levin, who also createdthe Capital next door. The rooms areindividually designed with luxury in mind,and Le Metro Bar & Brasserie servesafternoon tea as part of its all-day menu.28 Basil Street, SW3 1AST: 020 7589 6286www.thelevinhotel.co.ukMillennium & Copthorne Hotelsat Chelsea Football Club****This four-star deluxe hotel is based atChelsea Football Club and offers footballpackages, including match tickets andprogrammes, accommodation, dinnerand breakfast. Of course, you don’t haveto be going to a match to stay there –it’s also close to the Fulham Broadwayend of the King’s Road. See also MarcoRestaurant in Restaurants.Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road, SW61HS. T: 020 7565 1400www.millenniumhotels.co.uk/millenniumcopthornechelseafcJumeirahCarlton TowerMillennium Hotel LondonKnightsbridge****A large, four-star deluxe hotel at the top ofSloane Street, close to Harvey Nichols,Harrods and designer stores. It has 222guest rooms. Its MU Restaurant &Cocktail Bar serves Asian fusion cuisine.17 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NUT: 020 7235 4377www.millenniumhotels.co.uk/millenniumknightsbridgeNo.11 London*****No.11 is a luxury, five-star hotel in aquiet area close to Sloane Square. Set ingrand buildings, it has 60 rooms and fourindependent apartments. No.11 also hasa gym, spa and restaurant.11 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJT: 020 7730 7000www.no11london.comSan Domenico House*****A five-star boutique hotel with 16 bedroomsand suites and an extensive roomservice menu, a three-minute walk fromSloane Square Tube Station.29-31 Draycott Place, SW3 2SHT: 020 7581 5757www.sandomenicohouse.comSearcy’s 30 Pavilion Road***1/230 Pavilion Road has 11 roof gardenbedrooms in a country-style Georgiantownhouse. The whole house is alsoavailable for exclusive use for dinners,receptions and other events.30 Pavilion Road, SW1X 0HJT: 020 7584 4921 (bedrooms)T: 020 7823 9212 (events).www.searcys.co.uk/30-pavilion-road/Sloane Club****/*****The exclusive Sloane Club has its originsin the Service Women’s Club, which wasfounded for serving and former ladyofficers of the Armed Forces in theSecond World War.It became the Helena Club for ladiesin the early 1960s, established by a ladyin-waitingto Princess Marie Louise.Gentlemen were admitted in the 1970sand it became the Sloane Club in 1976.It is designed as a home from home andmany club members use it as a base forthe social season, staying there whileattending the Henley Regetta, RoyalAscot and the Chelsea Flower Show,among other events.Although you need to be a memberto book into a room or dine at theclub (members can bring a guest), nonmemberscan book an apartment andare granted membership for the durationof their stay, allowing them to use therestaurant, private dining room, bar androof terrace.The 20 apartments are four orfive-star, ranging from studios to fourbedrooms, and can be found in LowerSloane Street and Sloane Gardens.They are available from one week tothree months (shorter periods onrequest).52 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8BST: 020 7730 9131www.sloaneclub.co.ukMillennium HotelLondonKnightsbridgeThe Sloane Square Hotel****Overlooking Sloane Square, this four-starhotel is a convenient base to explore thearea from. The bedrooms include someinteresting extra features, including freelocal and national calls, a Toshiba laptop,a DVD player and library of 250 films,iPhone and iPod docking stations andfree Sky Sports TV channels. See alsoChelsea Brasserie in Restaurants.Sloane Square, SW1W 8EGT: 020 7898 9988www.sloanesquarehotel.co.ukSydney House Chelsea****A four-star deluxe hotel with 21 bedroomsset in a Grade II-listed, Georgiantownhouse. It has a drawing room, barand a boardroom, and the top-floordouble room (known at the Room atthe Top) has its own private roof garden.An organic, cooked English breakfast isavailable until 6.30pm.9-11 Sydney Street, SW3 6PUT: 020 7376 7711www.sydneyhousechelsea.com

51 | INSIDER | Chelsea, past and presentThe Insider’s Guideto Chelsea, pastand presentNational Army MuseumAs a long-time Chelsea resident, I think itmust be one of the best places – if notthe best place – to live in London, whichitself is the most vibrant and cosmopolitancity in the world.My chief joy is walking round thestreets, squares and places that makeChelsea a village within a city. The mostspecial places are the Royal HospitalChelsea, which is still doing what it hasbeen doing for more than 300 years; theChelsea Physic Garden; the NationalArmy Museum, which is brilliant forchildren (and, in my case, grandchildren);and Duke of York Square, which – thanksto an inspired redevelopment as London’snewest public square – is a meetingplace for all ages.Then there are the wonderful churches,such as Chelsea Old Church, wheremy wife and I were married, as wasmy widowed mother on her secondmarriage. Her mother’s funeral tookplace there, which is appropriate asshe did so much to raise funds for itsrebuilding after bomb damage.Also, there is the chapel at the RoyalHospital Chelsea – where my ex-soldierBy Sir Michael Craig-CooperCBE TD DL, who has lived mostof his life in Chelsea and hasheld several important postsin the area.Following National Service inCombined Operations, he wasarticled to a solicitor andundertook many unpaidvoluntary roles in the serviceof Chelsea, the Royal Boroughand Greater London. He servedas a councillor for the HansTown Ward, during which timehe was chairman of theCouncil's Finance Committeefor two years, and then servedas one of the last of thealdermen. Having served in theTerritorial Army for many years,he was a deputy lieutenantfor Greater London and therepresentative deputylieutenant for the RoyalBorough of Kensington andChelsea until his promotion toVice Lord-Lieutenant in 2005 –a role he completed in 2011.He is currently president of theFriends of the Royal HospitalChelsea and is a trustee of theThames Diamond JubileePageant Foundation, as well asserving as vice president of theReserve Forces and CadetsAssociation of Greater Londonson was married and his two childrenchristened – Holy Trinity Sloane Street,St Luke’s in Sydney Street, and manyothers I have connections to.It is a great privilege to live inHans Town which, until the reorganisationof London local government in thelate 1800s, was the oldest secular unitof local government under its commissionersoutside the City of London.It was an additional privilege to representit on the council for six years and as analderman for a further four.The Wren Chapel at theRoyal Hospital Chelsea

52 | FOOD AND DRINK | RestaurantsFood anddrinkThe Lounge at ZumaWhether you’re looking forward to aspecial dinner, you’re meeting friends fordrinks or you’re just feeling a bit peckish,there’s a myriad of restaurants, cafés,pubs and nightlife spots in the areaTop tablesChelsea is peppered with some of theworld’s finest restaurants, including thelegendary Michelin-magnet RestaurantGordon Ramsay – but if you don’t fancybreaking the bank, there are plenty ofalternatives on the menuAwana££££A fine-dining Malaysian restaurant andsatay bar, Awana offers an à la cartemenu, specials, vegetarian and veganfood and a couple of set menus (‘Tasteof Malaysia’ and ‘Malaysian Banquet’).The satay bar serves up Malaysianstreet food, particularly dishes from theisland of Penang, while the substantialcocktail list features plenty of exotic fruitsand flavours.Lunch: 12pm-3pm. Dinner: Monday-Wednesday 6pm-11pm, Thursday-Saturday 6pm-11.30pm, Sunday 6pm-10.30pm.85 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DXT: 020 7584 8880www.awana.co.ukBaity Kitchen££Baity Kitchen serves an interesting mixof Middle Eastern and Mediterraneancuisine – the result of a partnershipbetween Palestinian-born food bloggerand chef Joudie Kalla-Anagnou and herGreek friend Christina Mouratoglou.It’s an all-day dining venture that hasopened relatively recently (December2010), with an emphasis on home-cooking.‘Baity’ means ‘my home’ in Arabic,and the restaurant aims to serve up thesort of home-cooking that isn’t normallyfound on menus in Arabic restaurants.Joudie has worked in RestaurantPrice guide:The following key shows a generalprice guide for the restaurants,based on an average three-coursemeal from the à la carte menu(including VAT but not includingdrinks or service charges). Pleasenote that this is just a guide to pricesand should be treated as such.£: Under £25££: £25-£35£££: £35-£45££££: £45-£55£££££: £55 and overBaity Kitchen Cake Pops

53 | FOOD AND DRINK | RestaurantsGordon Ramsay, Daphne’s and Papillon,so she has the skills to back up herhome-cooking. Best-sellers include theGreek dish gemista (stuffed vegetableswith rice) and the Palestinian sayyadiyeh(seared cod with cumin on cumin onionrice with a tahini sauce, tomatoes,parsley and lemon juice). There is also acatering service.Monday-Saturday 8am-9pm, Sunday9am-8pm.172 Walton Street, SW3 2JLT: 020 7584 6866www.baitykitchen.comBeaufort House£££The brasserie and cocktail bar on theground floor are open to the public, whilethe rest of Beaufort House is a privatemembers’ club. The brasserie has anall-day brunch menu and a dinner menumade up of British and European dishes.It welcomes families with youngchildren in the day and becomes moreof a bar in the evening. For the cocktailBeaufort HouseCocktail Bar andBrasseriebar, see Pubs, Bars and Nightlife.Brasserie and cocktail bar openSunday-Wednesday 10am-12.30pm,Thursday-Saturday 10am-1.30pm.354 King’s Road, SW3 5UZT: 020 7352 2828www.beauforthousechelsea.co.ukBenihana££££Benihana Chelsea is part of an internationalchain of Japanese restaurantsfounded in 1964 with a theatrical flair,where food is prepared and cooked atyour table on a Hibachi Grill. TheChelsea branch opened in 1993.The menu features mostly steak andfish/shellfish dishes – often a combinationof the two. If you feel in the mood tosplash out, there’s even Wagyu beef.There’s also a selection of hot and coldappetisers, sushi and bento boxes. Thelunchtime dishes are generally cheaper.Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5.30pm-10.30pm, Sunday and bank holidays5pm-10pm.77 King’s Road, SW3 4NXT: 020 7376 7799www.benihana.co.ukBig Easy Bar.B.Q & Crabshack££A restaurant inspired by Gulf Coastcrabshacks in the US of A, Big Easybrings American barbeque food toChelsea. The ‘theme’ idea might putsome people off, but it’s not just akitschy gimmick – the food has won fans(and some awards) and it’s buzzy, withlive music in the evenings.The menu features steaks, fajitas, lobster,ribs, burgers – and crab, of course.Prices for mains are around the £15-£25mark, unless you’re going for the topsteaks or a steak/lobster combo. Thereare some good deals, too, depending onthe day of the week – whether it’s a200gm 28-day-aged sirloin steak and awhole lobster with fries, house salad anda Jose Cuervo Gold frozen margarita ora beer for £19.50, or all-you-can-eatshrimp with fries, coleslaw and a beer orfrozen margarita for £14.95 per person.There’s a kids’ menu too, if you don’tthink they can handle coming face toface with a whole crab. It’s happy hourat the bar at 12pm and 4pm daily,Tuesday-Friday 4pm-7.30pm and all dayon Monday until 11pm, and the drinkslist is cocktail-heavy.Sunday to Thursday 12pm-11pm,Friday and Saturday 12pm-12am.332-334 King’s Road, SW3 5URT: 020 7352 4071www.bigeasy.co.ukBlack & Blue£££Black & Blue, a restaurant group thatspecialises in steak and hamburgers,has taken over the site of the famousPicasso café on the King’s Road.Picasso was much-loved by locals andBluebird Restaurantwas a hangout for rock stars and celebs,including the Rolling Stones and EricClapton in the 1960s, and Bob Geldofand Gordon Ramsay in later years.The recession took its toll and it closedin 2009.The Black & Blue menu includes aselection of light lunches and more substantialmeals, primarily steaks, burgersand fish. There is an extensive wine list.Sunday-Thursday 8am-11pm, Fridayand Saturday 8am-11.30pm.127 King’s Road, SW3 4PWT: 020 7351 1661www.blackandbluerestaurants.comBluebird Chelsea£££Set in a striking 1920s Grade II-listedformer garage, this foodie hub has arestaurant, a bar, a café (see Cafés),an al fresco dining area, a food store anda wine shop (see Shopping).Terence Conran developed thebuilding in the 1990s as the BluebirdGastrodome, and it has since beentaken over by restaurant group D&DLondon. There’s also a shop sellingclothes, accessories, gifts and furnitureand a spa in the same complex (seeShopping and Spas).The restaurant is on the the first-floor –cut between the café and the al frescocourtyard and up the stairs on the lefthandside as you face the main building.The concrete steps lead into a largerestaurant flooded with natural light,with sleek, modern décor and an eyecatchingart deco-style chandelier overthe bar.The à la carte menu is made up ofmodern British dishes and classics witha twist, and the desserts include grownuptakes on childhood favourites. There’salso a lunch menu, a set lunch menuand a Sunday lunch menu, as well asbar snacks.Bluebird has four private dining rooms,

54 | FOOD AND DRINK | Restaurantswhich can be booked for dinners andevents, and the restaurant and bar canalso be hired.Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-2.30pm,Saturday and Sunday 12pm-3.30pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-10.30pm, Sunday 6pm-9.30pm.Bluebird Chelsea, 350 King’s Road, SW35UU. T: 020 7559 1000 (restaurant, barand café)www.bluebird-restaurant.co.ukByron King’s Road£Tom Byng founded restaurant chainByron in 2007 to serve ‘proper hamburgersthe way they should be’. There are afew salads as well, but it’s all about theburgers here and there’s a substantial listof toppings and dips so you can customisethem.The desserts are American in themeand there are milkshakes too. The winelist is minimal but there’s a good selectionof craft beers.Monday-Thursday 12pm-11pm, Friday12pm-11.30pm, Saturday 11am-11.30pm, Sunday 11am-10.30pm.300 King’s Road, SW3 5UHT: 020 7352 6040www.byronhamburgers.comThe Cadogan Restaurant££This luxurious restaurant, adjacent to theCadogan, is set in the former home ofactress Lillie Langtry, famous for heraffair with the future king of England,Edward VII.Formerly known as Langtry’s, thisrestaurant is undergoing a relaunch atthe time of writing and will be teaming upwith the Good Taste Awards for 2012,using only award-winning produce. Thecuisine is modern British.Lunch: Tuesday-Sunday 12pm-2.30pm. Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-10pm.Cheyne Walk Brasserie21 Pont Street, SW1W 9SGT: 0800 023 5445.www.cadogan.com/restaurant.htmlThe Capital£££££Under executive head chef JérômePonchelle, the award-winning restaurant inthe Capital Hotel serves up contemporaryand classic French and British cuisine andcelebrated its 40th birthday in 2011.The à la carte menu changes accordingto the season and there are also degustationmenus for the whole table. A setmenu is available for lunch (Monday-Friday) and there is a Sunday lunch menu,including a carvery. The wine list is hugeand reached the final round of the AAWine Award in 2011/12.Events – including special wine andchampagne dinners – and masterclassesare held throughout the year. Ponchellealso oversees menus for the privatedining rooms.Lunch: Monday-Sunday 12pm-2.30pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-10.30pm.The Capital Hotel, 22-24 Basil Street,SW3 1AT. T: 020 7591 1202www.capitalhotel.co.uk/restaurantbar.htmlCaraffini££Close to Sloane Square, Paolo Caraffini’slong-established Italian restaurant servestraditional food at relatively affordableprices. There are daily specials in additionto the à la carte menu, and the winelist focuses mostly on Italian wines. Tablereservations are only available by telephone.Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12.15pm-2.30pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday6.30pm-11.30pm.61-63 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8DH.T: 020 7259 0235www.caraffini.co.ukChelsea Brasserie and BarChelsea Brasserie and Bar£££Simon Henbery, former head chef atJamie Oliver’s Fifteen, runs the kitchen atthe Chelsea Brasserie and Bar on SloaneSquare. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunchand dinner, the European menu has amodern, seasonal twist.Breakfast: Monday-Friday 7am-10.30am, Saturday-Sunday 7am-10am.Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-10.30pm.Sunday brunch: 11.30am-3.30pm.7-12 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EGT: 020 7881 5999www.chelsea-brasserie.co.ukCheyne Walk Brasserie££££Set in a former Victorian pub, this longrunning,riverside French brasserie andsalon has a Provençal-inspired menu.Seasonal produce is prepared on anopen grill in the heart of the brasserie.There’s a good-value weekday setlunch (Tuesday-Friday, £19 for twocourses, £25 for three) and a weekendset lunch (£28 for two courses, £34 forthree), and you can choose your dessertfrom the à la carte menu for both.There’s also a weekend children’s menu(£9.50 for two courses). The wine list isextensive.The upstairs Salon has a river viewand serves drinks and cocktails, witha menu of tartines, baguettes and thetraditional Croque Monsieur. The Salonsometimes hosts jazz nights - check thewebsite for event details.Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday 12pm-3pm,Sunday 12pm-3.30pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 7pm-10.30pm.50 Cheyne Walk, SW3 5LRT: 020 7376 8787www.cheynewalkbrasserie.comEight Over Eight£££Part of restaurateur Will Ricker’s group oftrendy pan-Asian restaurants, the sleekEight Over Eight has recovered from thefire it suffered in 2009 and is back to itsglamorous best.The bar serves interesting cocktails(£8-£10) – including the Black Orchard(Johnnie Walker Black shaken with freshginger, chilli, lemon juice and sugar,served short over ice) and the LycheeBellini (lychee liquor and sake toppedwith champagne).The menu features dim sum, sushi

55 | FOOD AND DRINK | Restaurantsand sashimi, tempura, curries ,BBQ/roasts, specials and salads. There’salso a bento box lunch special (£13.50-£16.50), which brings together sushi,salads and hot dishes in set menus.It’s worth checking out the specialoffers on the website too, which can givea hefty discount on selected days.Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-3pm,Saturday and Sunday 12pm-4pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-11pm,Sunday 6pm-10.30pm. Bar (dim sumserved all day): Monday-Saturday 12pm-12am, Sunday 6pm-11.30pm.392 King’s Road, SW3 5UZT: 020 7349 9934www.rickerrestaurants.com/eightovereight/El BlasonEl Blason is a Spanish restaurant whichfeatured in the film Blow-Up (1966) –see Film. At the time of writing, it wasclosed for refurbishment.8-9 Blacklands Terrace, SW3 2SPT: 020 7823 7383Foxtrot OscarElistano££Head chef William Pinfold, who hasworked with Tom Aikens and GordonRamsay, recently joined Elistano, so thetraditionally Italian restaurant is broadeningout to offer modern European-stylefood as well as the old favourites. Thereis some pavement seating if you want toeat al fresco.Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-3.30pm,Saturday 12pm-4pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-10.30pm. Sunday all day10am-4pm.25-27 Elystan Street, SW3 3NTT: 020 7584 5248www.elistano.comFifth Floor Restaurant atHarvey Nichols£££Harvey Nichols’ Fifth Floor Restauranthas European seasonal menus designedby executive chef Jonas Karlsson, drawinginspiration from his Swedish heritage.The daily-changing ‘market menu’showcases produce from the HarveyNichols Foodmarket, also on the fifthfloor. The neutral, sophisticated décormakes it a calming place to take a breakfrom shopping, and the award-winningwine list offers more than 750 wines fromall over the world. Wi-fi is available.Lunch: Monday-Thursday 12pm-3.30pm, Friday-Sunday 12pm-4pm.Afternoon tea: Monday-Thursday2.30pm-5.30pm, Friday-Saturday3.30pm-5.30pm, Sunday 3pm-5pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-11pm.Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge,SW1X 7RJ. T: 020 7235 5250www.harveynichols.com/restaurants/fifthfloor-london/fifth-floor-london-restaurantFoxtrot Oscar££Part of Gordon Ramsay’s stable ofrestaurants, Foxtrot Oscar is a modernbistro with a relaxed atmosphere.Head chef Cary Doherty puts hisexperience from working at restaurantsincluding Maze, Zuma and GordonRamsay’s flagship restaurant down theroad to good use in a simpler style offood, and he’s particularly proud ofFoxtrot’s burger and chips.His experience with Asian cuisinelends an interesting twist to dishes suchas braised caramelised pork belly, whichcomes with jasmine rice and Asian salad.À la carte prices range from £7 upwardsfor starters, £12.75-£16.50 for mainsand £5-£6 for desserts.There’s a two-course set menu for£18, three courses for £22 (lunchMonday-Saturday and early supperMonday-Thursday), and the Sunday setmenu is £20 for two courses and £25for three. A Sunday roast menu is alsoavailable. You can bring your own wineon Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday atlunch and dinner (corkage fee of £10 perbottle).Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm,Sunday 12pm-3.45pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-10.30pm, Sunday 6pm-9pm.79 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HNT: 020 7352 4448www.gordonramsay.com/foxtrotoscar/Gallery Mess at the SaatchiGallery££It’s not somewhere that you might thinkof immediately when you’re looking for aplace to eat, but the Saatchi Gallery’srestaurant is definitely worth a look.The setting is lovely, with largewindows looking over the Duke of YorkSquare lawns, exposed brickwork andvaulted ceilings, and there’s an al frescoterrace. Naturally, it’s decorated withcontemporary art, and the food is muchbetter than you might expect from agallery restaurant. The building was oncepart of the barracks mess, hence thename, and the restaurant is operated byRhubarb Food Design, which also runsrestaurants at the Royal Albert Hall.The Gallery Mess has daily, seasonalspecials and an ever-evolving menu,mostly made up of British and Europeandishes. There’s also a children’s menu(two courses £9.95) and afternoon tea(£9.50/£17). There’s a sizeable drinks list,including cocktails.Monday-Saturday 10am-11.30pm,Sunday 10am-7pm. Pastries served10am-11.30am. Starters and salads11.30am-close. Mains £12pm-close.Puddings 11.30am-close. Children’smenu 11.30am-close. Afternoon tea2.30pm-6pm.Saatchi Gallery, King’s Road, SW3 4SQT: 020 730 8135www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk/gallerymess/Geales££Seafood restaurant Geales in ChelseaGreen – sister restaurant to Geales inNotting Hill – serves posh fish and chips,oysters, sharing platters and classics likeGallery Mess at theSaatchi Gallery

56 | FOOD AND DRINK | Restaurantsfish soup, fish pie and Morecombe Baypotted prawns. There are also some beefdishes for people not so keen on fish,but honestly, it’s rather missing the pointif you order steak.The desserts are comforting favouritessuch as apple and blackberry crumble.The fixed lunch menu offers good value(£11.95 for two courses, availableTuesday-Friday, 12pm-2.30pm).Lunch: Tuesday-Friday 12pm-3.30pm.Dinner: Monday-Friday 6pm-10.30pm.Weekends: Saturday 12pm-10.30pm,Sunday 12pm-9.30pm.1 Cale Street, SW3 3QT. T: 020 79650555www.geales.comGaucho Sloane££££Argentine steak restaurant chain Gauchohas sites all over London). The black andwhite décor (complete with cow hide) isstriking and it’s a haven for carnivores,although probably terrifying for vegetarians.The cuts are explained to you by awaiter holding a board covered withmeat, which is helpful if you don’t knowwhat bife de chorizo, bife de ancho andbife de lomo are. Sides are ordered separately.Starters include ceviche,empanadas and grilled provoleta.If you have room, the desserts and thefantastic cheese board – also explainedby the waiter – are worth a look. Thewine list is extensive, with an impressiveoffering of Malbecs.Gaucho runs masterclasses if youwant to find out more about cocktails,wine, beef or ceviche.Monday-Thursday 12pm-11pm,Friday-Saturday 12pm-11.30pm, Sunday10am-10.30pm.89 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DXT: 020 7584 9901www.gauchorestaurants.co.ukLe CercleLoungeRestaurantKing’s Road Steakhouse & Grill££££Serving classic steak cuts, roasts andfish, this steakhouse is under the MarcoPierre White banner, part of his partnership,the London Steakhouse Company.It has a £21.50 set menu and a £29.50set menu, as well as the a la carte menu.Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm,Sunday 12pm-4pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5.30pm-11pm, Sunday 6pm-10pm. Dress code: Smart casual.386 King’s Road, SW3 5UZT: 020 7351 9997www.kingsroadsteakhouseandgrill.orgLa Famiglia£££A Tuscan restaurant founded in 1966 byAlvaro Maccioni, La Famiglia is tuckedamong the galleries in Langton Street,World’s End.Family photos hang on the walls, andthe blue and white décor gives it aMediterranean feel. The menus areauthentic and include a section devotedto seasonal dishes. There’s a hugeamount of choice, with the pasta andmeat sections alone featuring around 15dishes each, not counting the seasonallist. There’s a heated outside terrace ifyou want to eat al fresco.Lunch: 12pm-2.45pm. Dinner: 7pm-11.45pm.7 Langton Street, SW10 0JLT: 020 7351 0761www.lafamiglia.co.ukLe Colombier£££A French restaurant with an emphasison Parisian brasserie dishes, LeColombier was established in 1998 byDidier Garnier. The á la carte menu featuresplenty of classics and there is adaily set menu of two courses for£19.50, including coffee. Le Colombierhas a pretty terrace.Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm,Sunday 12pm-3.30pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-10.30pm, Sunday6.30pm-10pm.145 Dovehouse Street, SW3 6LBT: 020 7351 1155le-colombier-restaurant.co.ukMade in Italy£The first restaurant in Made in Italy’schain, this opened in 1989. A real sellingpoint is the pizzametro – literally ‘pizzametre’ - a pizza up to a metre-long for atable to share, covered with strips of differentingredients to satisfy everyone.Monday 6pm-11.30pm, Tuesday-Saturday 12pm-11.30pm, Sunday12pm-10.30pm.249 King’s Road, SW3 5ELT: 020 7352 1880www.madeinitalygroup.co.ukManicomioManicomio£££This newly-refurbished Italian restaurantin Duke of York Square is handy for abite to eat while shopping and has an alfresco, heated dining area to survey thecomings and goings in the square fromwhile you eat.The building was the former militaryasylum of the Duke of York’s barracks,hence the name Manicomio, which means‘asylum’ or ‘mad house’. There’s a caféand deli (see Cafés) and a restaurant.The restaurant serves contemporaryItalian cuisine that’s unfussy and elegant.Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-3pm,Saturday 12pm-5pm, Sunday 12pm-5pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-10.30pm, Sunday 6.30pm-10pm.85 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 3366.www.manicomio.co.ukMarco Restaurant££££One of three restaurants at the ChelseaFootball Club hotel, this is a collaborativeeffort between Marco Pierre White and

57 | FOOD AND DRINK | Restaurantsthe Chelsea FC owner.There are set menus and specialdeals, such as Marco Steak Night onThursdays. There are also matchdayspecial offers. Serving fish, roasts andgrills, and steaks, the menu is a mix ofFrench and English dishes. There’s agood showing of English and Irish stouts,ales and ciders in addition to the wine listand cocktail list.Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-22.30pm.Millennium & Copthorne Hotels atChelsea Football Club, Stamford Bridge,Fulham Road, SW6 1HST: 020 7915 2929www.marcorestaurant.orgPalm Restaurant££££The London outpost of this USA-basedrestaurant group, the Palm Restaurant isfamous for its prime-aged Americansteaks and jumbo Nova Scotia lobsters.Lunch: Friday-Saturday 12pm-5pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5pm-11pm,Sunday 6pm-10pm.1 Pont Street, SW1X 9EJT: 020 7201 0710www.thepalm.comThe Painted Heron£££Head chef Yogesh Datta serves upmodern Indian cuisine in this smartrestaurant, one of Zagat 2011’s ‘topfood in Chelsea’ picks.The à la carte menu changes regularly,the décor is elegant and the food showsEuropean ingredients in a new light. Theset price menu (six courses for £45, forthe whole table, minimum two people)and weekend brunch menu (£20 perperson) are excellent value.Brunch: Saturday and Sunday, 11am-5pm. Dinner: 6pm-11pm daily.112 Cheyne Walk, SW10 0DJT: 020 7351 5232www.thepaintedheron.comPellicanoPellicano£££Serving Italian cuisine with a Sardinianaccent, this Chelsea Green restaurant’sà la carte menu changes seasonally.There are also weekly specials and fixedprice set menus that change every week(set lunch menu £16.95 for two courses,£19.95 for three).Lunch: Monday-Friday 12.30pm-3pm,Saturday 12.30pm-15.30pm, Sunday12.30pm-9.30pm. Dinner: Monday-Friday 6.30pm-11pm, Saturday12.30pm-11pm.19-21 Elystan Street, SW3 3NTT: 020 7589 3718www.pellicanorestaurant.co.ukPeter Jones Brasserie££Easy to overlook because of its poshdepartment store location, the Brasseriein Peter Jones is a proper restaurant,with waiter service and reservations.It serves surprisingly good contemporarydishes, sometimes with a littlecomplimentary amuse-bouche from thechef. It seats 58 and has a relaxedatmosphere – a great place to have ameal and people-watch while you’reexploring Chelsea, especially if you canget a window seat.It also serves afternoon tea, includingset menus (afternoon tea for two£22.50, champagne afternoon tea fortwo £38.50).Monday-Saturday 9.30am-6.30pm(Wednesday until 7.30pm), Sunday11am-4.30pm.Peter Jones, Sloane Square, SW1W 8ELT: 020 7881 6457www.peterjones.co.ukPizza Express – the Pheasantry£The Pizza Express chain might be ubiquitous,but this restaurant is on a historicsite (see Streets and Sights) and it’s acheap place to grab a bite to eat on theKing’s Road. It’s over three floors andthere’s a heated garden area for al frescodining. It serves pizza, pasta and salads,and is also a live music venue (seeMusic).Daily 11.30am-11pm.The Pheasantry, King’s Road, SW3 4UTT: 020 7351 5031www.pizzaexpress.comRestaurantGordonRamsayRasoi Vineet Bhatia£££££In the restaurant guides to Chelsea,Michelin-starred Rasoi, helmed by VineetBhatia, is usually somewhere near thetop of the list.The innovative Indian cuisine isimpressive, but the prices can be prettysteep – the ‘gourmand’ menu is £85 forseven courses (there is a separate vegetarianversion too). The ‘prestige’ menuis £87 (vegetarian £78) and the set pricefor à la carte is £49 for two courses or£59 for three. The lunch menu is greatvalue – two courses for £22, three for£27 and four for £32.Lunch: Monday-Friday 2pm-2.30pm,Sunday 12pm-2.30pm. Dinner: Monday-Friday 6pm-10.45pm, Saturday 6pm-11pm, Sunday 6pm-10pm.10 Lincoln Street, SW3 2TST: 020 7225 1881www.rasoi-uk.comRestaurant Gordon Ramsay£££££Gordon Ramsay’s flagship restaurant hasheld three Michelin stars – the highestrating awarded by the guide – for tenyears, and is now London’s longestrunningthree-starred restaurant. It’svery popular in the food guides too,scoring near the top of the best UKrestaurant lists.Menus include a set lunch (threecourses £45), à la carte (three courses£95), menu prestige (seven courses£125) and seasonal inspiration (dinneronly, seven courses £185). The food issophisticated and refined, the ingredientsare top-line and the service is impeccable– but be prepared to open yourwallet wide.Launched in 1998, this was Ramsay’sfirst wholly-owned restaurant. By 2001, ithad been awarded three Michelin stars.Clare Smyth has been the head chefsince 2008. The restaurant seats 45 and

58 | FOOD AND DRINK | Restaurantswas designed by David Collins. Bookwell in advance to get a table – it has along waiting list.It also offers masterclasses to teachyou how to prepare Gordon Ramsay signaturedishes (£600 for one person toattend the class and then enjoy a threecourselunch with a guest, with winespaired to each course).Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-2.30pm.Dinner: 6.30pm-11pm. Dress codesmart – no trainers, shorts or sportswear.68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HPT: 020 7352 4441www.gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad/The Rib Room Bar andRestaurant£££££The Rib Room at the Carlton Tower issomething of an institution. It has beenserving up beef since the hotel openedin 1961 and regulars at the restaurantinclude Nigella Lawson, Charles Saatchiand Sir David Frost.It recently underwent a major redesignfront of house and has a new teambehind the scenes – general managerMichele Caggianese, head chef Ian Rudge(who has worked at Michelin-starredrestaurants Northcote Manor, RestaurantGordon Ramsay and Whatley Manor)and head sommelier Louise Gordon.Rudge aims to serve up British cuisinethat’s “good, honest food” with someinteresting twists to surprise diners. Themuch-loved roast rib of beef withYorkshire pudding is still present, butthere’s also less traditional dishes likecaper-crusted rack of Cornish lamb,lightly-curried neck, shallot compoteand Jerusalem artichoke purée. The winelist includes around 500 wines and ispresented on iPads. The set lunch menuis good value, with two courses for£19 and three for £25, and there’s achildren’s menu too.The RibRoomThe restaurant redesign was by MartinBrudnizki (the man behind the look ofScott’s and Corrigan’s Mayfair), who hasgiven it a New York clubby feel.The walls are hung with originalsby expressionist artist Feliks Topolski,including portraits of Churchill, a Chelseapensioner, and the ‘Chelsea Girls’series, featuring Vanessa Redgrave andLady Astor.The restaurant made the headlines in1975 when the hotel was attacked bythe IRA. Luckily, the window table’sposition in the Rib Room meant that thebullets passed between diners and noone was hurt.Breakfast: Monday-Friday 7am-10.30am, Sunday and bank holidays7am-11am. Lunch: Monday-Friday12.00pm-3pm, Saturday-Sunday andbank holidays 12.30pm-3pm. Dinner:Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-11pm,Sunday and bank holidays 6.30pm-10.30pm. Dress code: smart casual.Jumeirah Carlton Tower, Cadogan Place,SW1X 9PY. T: 020 7858 7250www.theribroom.co.ukScalini£££A welcoming Italian restaurant witha dedicated following, Scalini serves traditionalfood and has a chef’s specialityevery day. A private room has recentlybeen added.Lunch: Monday-Sunday 12pm-3pm.Dinner: 7pm-12pm.1-3 Walton Street, SW3 2JDT: 020 7225 2301/02www.scalinionline.comSushinho£££This restaurant and cocktail bar servingJapanese/Brazilian food takes inspirationfrom the popularity of Japanese food inBrazil.Sushinho has a sushi bar which worksin conjunction with the restaurant – youcan order sushi, warm dishes or both –and operates a family-style service whereall the dishes are meant for sharing andare brought to the table as the kitchenserves them up.It’s an interesting combination, withJapanese sushi, sashimi, tempura andnoodles on the menu alongside Brazilianceviche and beef with chimichurri sauce.It no longer serves tuna, as it has a sustainablesources policy.The bar serves interesting cocktails –including ‘popular in Sao Paolo’ and‘Nipo-Brazilian’ sections – and there is adecent wine list.Lunch: Wednesday-Saturday12.30pm-2.30pm. Dinner: Sunday-Tuesday 6pm-10pm, Wednesday-Saturday 6pm-10.30pm.312-314 King’s Road, SW3 5UHT: 020 7349 7496www.sushinho.comTom’s Kitchen£££Tom Aikens’s Chelsea Green brasserie isjust round the corner from his ElystanTom’sKitchenStreet flagship, but the tone is entirelydifferent.Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner,and brunch on weekends, it offerscomforting classics with a few quirkytwists. There is a first-floor bar andprivate dining.Breakfast: Monday-Friday 8am-11.45am. Brunch: Saturday and Sunday10am-1pm. Lunch: Monday-Friday12pm-3pm, Saturday-Sunday 1pm-4pm.Dinner: Monday-Friday 6pm-11pm,Saturday-Sunday 6pm-10.30pm.27 Cale Street, SW3 3QPT: 020 7349 0202www.tomskitchen.co.uk/chelsea/Tom Aikens££££Tom Aikens’s flagship restaurantreopened in January 2012 after anextensive refurbishment.Aiken’s sophisticated dishes areimaginative and feature interestingflavours and techniques. The new menusinclude a three-course à la carte menu(£50), a six-course taster menu (£55), aneight-course taster menu (£75) and a

59 | FOOD AND DRINK | Restaurantsten-course taster menu (£95).Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-3pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6.45pm-11pm. The restaurant is also available forexclusive hire on weekends.43 Elystan Street, SW3 3NTT: 020 7584 2003www.tomaikens.co.ukThe World’s End££Brother and sister team Mitch andMeredith Tillman have recently launchedthis three-level redevelopment on the siteof the World’s End Distillery. It’s made upof the Scene on the ground floor, theSummerhouse upstairs and the Cellar inthe basement.The duo behind the First RestaurantGroup – its other venues include theNotting Hill Brasserie and Mayfair gastropubthe Running Horse – are the sonand daughter of Harold Tillman, chairmanof the British Fashion Council andowner of Jaegar and Aquascutum.Harold also opened what is regardedas the UK’s first cocktail bar, Rumours, inCovent Garden in 1978. Mitch started byopening a small deli and eventually builtup a restaurant portfolio, and Meredith,who had a background in advertisingand an eye for design, joined him in thebusiness.The three levels in their new project inWorld’s End have very different identities.The Scene Bar and Kitchen is anAmerican diner with a cinematic theme,with movies – from classics likeBreakfast at Tiffany’s to 1980s favouriteslike Ferris Bueller’s Day Off – playing inthe background. The menu is full ofAmerican favourites and an all-daybreakfast is served at weekends. Thereare nightly special deals. Soft drinksinclude milkshakes and smoothies andit’s big on cocktails, with alcoholicshakes and slushies in addition to themojitos and mules.The World’s EndThe Summerhouse is a seafoodrestaurant decked out like a Hamptonsbeach house. It’s a sister restaurant tothe Summerhouse on the Union Canal inMaida Vale. It closes for the winter,although it can be hired during that time,and reopens for the summer in April 2012.The Cellar is a candle-lit basement bar,which can be hired for private eventsand can be catered with a bespokemenu created from either the Scene orthe Summerhouse.The Scene: Tuesday-Friday 6pm-10.30pm. Saturday breakfast: 10am-4pm. Full menu: 12pm-10.30pm, Sunday10am-6pm. Bar open until 12am.The Cellar: Licensing hours 11ammidnight(later licences can be obtainedfor private parties).459 King’s Road, SW10 0LRT: 020 3362 3362www.theworldsend.coZiani’s££An established Italian restaurant thatwelcomes children, Ziani serves Venetianspecialities and is tucked away in a quietstreet off the King’s Road. The wine listfocuses on Italian regional varieties.Lunch: Monday-Saturday 12.15pm-2.45pm, Sunday 12.15pm-3.15pm.Dinner: Monday-Saturday 7pm-11.30pm, Sunday 7pm-10.30pm.45-47 Radnor Walk, SW3 4BPT: 020 7351 5297www.ziani.co.ukZuma££££This contemporary Japanese restaurantoffers a sophisticated take on theinformal, 'izakaya' style of eating anddrinking.You can eat in the main dining area orat the sushi counter and robata grill,where you can watch the chefs in action,and the sake bar offers more than 40different varieties of sake, as well ascocktails.The beautifully-designed interior andbold flavours are popular with foodiesand celebs alike, with good reason – butit’s not a cheap night out, especially ifZuma’s sushicounteryou get carried away sampling the sake.There’s no set protocol on orderingfrom the menu – dishes are designed tobe shared or eaten individually. There’salso a tasting menu. You don’t need areservation to sit at the counters, and thefull menu is still available.Lunch: Monday-Thursday 12pm-2.30pm, Friday 12pm-3pm, Saturday-Sunday and bank holidays 12.30pm-3.30pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm-11pm, Sunday and bank holidays 6pm-10.30pm.5 Raphael Street, SW7 1DLT: 020 7584 1010www.zumarestaurant.com/zuma_uk.html

60 | FOOD AND DRINK | CafésCafé cultureIf you fancy a more simple meal, thereare dozens of high-end cafes in the area,serving up all-day breakfasts, pastries,strong coffee, and some seriously goodsandwichesIts pavement seating area alwaysseems to be very popular, which is notsurprising given its prime location on theKing’s Road. It hosts live music from7pm, ranging from jazz to classical, pop,soul and swing.Daily 9am-11pm.52 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 0844 335 8403www.caffeconcerto.co.ukPatisserieValerieGelateriaBluebird Café and CourtyardThe café has an all-day menu, servingeverything from a classic English breakfast– or healthy options like granola ifyou are so inclined – to sandwiches,smoothies, eggs, pasta, salads and fishand chips.There are also dishes from the grill androtisserie. The drinks menu includes aninteresting mix of wine, champagnecocktails, beer and hot drinks, whichreflects the al fresco courtyard’s role asa place to relax.Turfed with artificial grass, bright withlarge sun umbrellas and warmed byheaters in the evening, this is designedfor people to sit and talk from the afternooninto the evening, rather than justsomewhere to grab a quick bite to eat.Opening hours: Monday-Friday 8am-11pm, Saturday 9am-11pm, Sunday9am-10pm.Bluebird doesn’t take reservations forthe courtyard except for members.350 King’s Road, SW3 5UUT: 020 7559 1000 (restaurant, barand café)www.bluebird-restaurant.co.ukCaffé ConcertoThis branch of Caffe Concerto opened inFebruary 2011 – there are others inKnightsbridge and South Kensington.Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, themenu mostly focuses on sandwiches forthe daytime and Italian favourites for theevening.BluebirdCaféCaffè FratelliAn Italian café in Duke of York Square. Itserves a selection of pasta, sandwichesand salads from the counter display, andthe coffee is excellent. The customersinclude plenty of Italians – always agood sign.There’s a pleasant al fresco seatingarea with lots of tables right on thesquare.Monday-Friday 7.30am-7.30pm,Saturday-Sunday 8.30am-7.30pmDuke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7823 6800http://fratellidelicafe.comCa’puccinoItaly-based Ca’puccino opened itsKing’s Road branch in July 2011, its thirdsite in the UK. It serves coffee, pastries,paninis, Italian regional dishes and icecreams.Ca’puccino also has a café in Harrods(T: 020 7590 0986, café open Monday-Saturday 10am-8pm, Sunday 11.30am-6pm).Daily 8am-8pm.138A King’s Road, SW3 4XBT: 020 7036 0555www.ca-puccino.comChelsea Quarter CaféDoron and Valeria Zilkha, ownersof Brompton Quarter Brasserie,Quarter Grocer and Health Quarter inKnightsbridge, opened Chelsea QuarterCafé in October 2011. They aim toreflect the area’s identity at each site andChelsea Quarter Café was designed byMathilde Allibe, who lives locally. It servesquirky sandwiches and fresh fruit juices.Monday-Friday 7.30am-7pm,Saturday-Sunday 8am-7pm.219 King’s Road, SW3 5EJT: 020 7352 3660www.bqbrasserie.comChelsea Gelateria ValerieClose to its sister café in Duke of YorkSquare, this Patisserie Valerie gelateriaoffers handmade ice cream in both traditionaland unusual flavours.It also serves up continental breakfasts,cakes, patisseries, tea and coffeeand light lunches such as sandwichesand grilled croissants. A takeaway menuis available.Monday-Friday 7.30am-6pm, Saturday8am-7pm, Sunday 9am-6pm.Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 7978www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk/chelseagelateria.aspxCuisine de Bar by PoilâneFrench artisan bakery Poilâne has

61 | FOOD AND DRINK | Cafésrecently opened an all-day restaurantin Chelsea.You can sit at the eating bar – wherechefs make fresh tartines to order – atone of the individual or communal tables,or relax in the lounge. There’s complimentarywi-fi throughout the restaurantduring the morning.Breakfast includes classic Frenchdishes and pastries, while lunch featureshealthy options and savoury tartines.Last orders for supper are at 9.30pm.Bread, pastries and related accessoriessuch as baskets, knives and books areavailable to buy.Monday-Friday 8am-8.30pm,Saturday-Sunday 9am-6.30pm.39 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2TBT: 020 3263 6019www.poilane.comDri DriAn Italian gelato in Chelsea FarmersMarket, with flavours ranging frombiscotto (cookies and cream) to cioccolato(chocolate) and caffè expresso(espresso coffee). It also offers workshopswhere children can learn how tomake sorbets and create their own tubto take away, and has a catering service.Daily 11am-8pm.Unit 16, Chelsea Farmers Market,125 Sydney Street, SW3 6NRT: 020 8616 5718www.dridrigelato.comJak’sClose to the galleries and boutiqueshops on Walton Street, Jak’s serves upMediterranean food. It's a popularbrunch stop on weekends and offersdishes from pasta to moussaka. Jak’sBar is a few doors down on the samestreet.Monday-Sunday 7.30am-11pm.77 Walton Street, SW3 2HTT: 020 7584 3441www.jakswaltonstreet.comPatisserie Valerie onDuke of York SquareManicomio Café and Deli(see Restaurants for the restaurant)The café serves breakfast, paninis,bruschettas and an informal dinner, whilethe delicatessen has a counter displayso you can choose what to take away oreat in the café and conservatory.Monday-Saturday 8am-7pm, Sunday10am-6pm.85 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 3366.www.manicomio.co.ukPatisserie Valerie – ChelseaLeft Wing CaféThe original Patisserie Valerie opened inFrith Street in 1926, when Belgian-bornMadam Valerie decided to bring continentaltreats to England.As well as patisserie treats such aséclair au chocolate and tarte au citron,there’s continental breakfasts, all-daybreakfast and brunch (up to £8.50),grilled snacks and lunch, through toevening dishes including salads, lasagneand soup of the day (£4.05-£9.50).Drinks include fruit smoothies (£4.05),ice-cream milkshakes (£3.35) and agood selection of tea and coffee. Thereis also a takeaway menu.Monday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday8am-9pm, Sunday 9am-7pm.Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 7094www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk/cafechelsea.aspxPeter Jones Espresso BarGrab a freshly-made coffee (and a cakeor pastry, if you’re like us) and get abird’s eye view over Chelsea at PeterJones’s top-floor expresso bar. There’salso a self-service restaurant on thesame floor, should you want a moresubstantial bite to eat.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-7pm,Sunday 11am-5pm, bank holidays10am-6pm.Peter Jones, Sloane Square, SW1W 8ELT: 0207 730 3434www.peterjones.co.ukRamelli’s Sandwich BarClose to Sloane Square Tube station(turn left as you come out), this sandwichbar serves snacks, hot and cold foodand drinks.Daily 6am-5pm.6 Holbein Place, SW1W 8NPT: 020 7730 3113Royal Court Theatre Café Bar(see Pubs, Bars and Nightlife)Snog ChelseaServing up pure frozen yogurt treats,Snog offers a healthier alternative toice cream. Choose a yogurt and addtoppings, which are updated with theseasons.Daily 11am-12am.155 King’s Road, SW3 5TXT: 020 7351 7164www.ifancyasnog.comTreats totake homeChelsea is lucky enough to have lotsof wonderful food and wine stores – hereare just a few of themArtisan du ChocolatLuxury chocolate company Artisan duChocolat was founded by Irish chef andchocolatier Gerard Coleman in 2000and the Chelsea shop opened in 2001.The chocolates are beautiful as well asdelicious – perfect for a gift or a treat.Monday-Saturday 10am-7pm, Sunday12pm-5pm.89 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8DAT: 0845 270 6996, option 2.www.artisanduchocolat.comThe Bluebird Food Store andWine CellarThe food store sells bakery breads,cured meats, chutneys and Britishcheeses, and there’s also a takeawaymenu. There are prepared meals totake home, takeaway coffees and a selfservicesalad bar, and you can have aPack a picnicWhen the weather’s nice, a greatalternative to dining at one of themany restaurants with gardens andal fresco areas is to visit some ofthe food shops in Chelsea and puta picnic together. Sitting by thefountains in Duke of York Square orin Ranelagh Gardens is a lovely wayto spend a lunchtime.

62 | FOOD AND DRINK | Food storesbespoke hamper made up for you.The breads are baked on the premisesand the Bluebird food store also suppliesbread to other restaurants and shops.The wine cellar below supplies morethan 750 unique wines, liqueurs, spiritsand cigars from all over the world. It alsoruns special wine tasting events andclasses.Food store: Monday-Friday 7.30am-7.30pm, Saturday 9am-7pm, Sunday9am-5pm. Wine cellar: Monday-Friday10am-7.30pm, Saturday 11am-7pm,Sunday 11am-5pm.350 King’s Road, SW3 5UU. T: 020 75591140 (food store), 020 7559 1130 (winecellar)www.bluebird-restaurant.co.ukThe Chelsea Cake ShopA cake shop specialising in individuallycrafted cakes, from wedding cakes tocup cakes. All the cakes are made toorder in the open-plan kitchen.Tuesday-Friday 10am-5.30pm,Saturday 10am-4.30pm.66 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8BPT: 020 7730 6277www.chelseacakeshop.co.ukThe Bluebird Food Storeand Wine CellarJane Asher Party Cakes andSugarcraftActress Jane Asher’s Chelsea Greencake shop, with everything you need tocreate a baking masterpiece.If baking is not your thing, they canmake you a show-shopping cake toorder.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-5.30pm.22-24 Cale Street, SW3 3QUT: 020 7584 6177www.janeasher.comJeroboamsPeter Rich opened the first Jereboamsshop in 1985, taking inspiration fromFrance’s traditional fromageries. It originallyfocused mainly on cheeses, butalso stocked speciality foods, fine winesand champagnes.The Pont Street store has a range ofwines from Bordeaux, Burgandy andTuscany, as well as from around theworld. It is managed by New ZealanderXavier Hornblow.Monday-Friday 10am-8pm, Saturday10am-7pm, closed Sundays.6 Pont Street, SW1X 9ELT: 020 7235 1612www.jeroboams.co.ukHereA specialist organic supermarket inChelsea Farmers Market, off SydneyStreet.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-8pm,Sunday 10am-6.30pm.T: 020 7351 4321La BottegaAn Italian delicatessen that also servesfood and coffee and offers a cateringservice and hampers.Monday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday9am-6pm, Sunday 9am-5pm.65 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8HDT: 020 7730 8844www.labottega65.comPartridgesPartridgesPartridges is the holder of the RoyalWarrant, By Appointment Grocers toHM the Queen, and celebrates its40th anniversary of trading in Chelseain 2012.The family-run food shop originallyopened at 132 Sloane Street by RichardShepherd in May 1972, and he wasjoined by his brother John in 1981. Thestore expanded and eventually relocatedto Duke of York Square in 2004.There’s a food market with around150 small speciality food producers onSaturdays.Partridges has a range of more than5,000 foods and wines from Britain andaround the globe, and also has a winebar and café with a private terrace.It offers local delivery and bespokehampers.Market: Saturday 10am-4pm. Store:Daily, 8am-10pm.2-5 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 0651www.partridges.co.ukThirst classYou’d be hard-pressed to find anywherein London with better pubs, clubs andbars than Chelsea. Whether you fancya cider on Sydney Street or shots inSloane Square, there will be a venue foryou in our guideThe Admiral CodringtonThis pub has a restaurant and a privatedining room as well as the traditional bararea, and that sets the tone for theCodrington. It has a reputation for goodfood and a buzzy atmosphere, and itdoes a good job of mixing the traditionaland the modern.The restaurant even has a retractableglass roof that can be pulled back onsunny days to allow al fresco dining.Well-prepared for the changeable Englishweather, there’s also a heated beergarden with all-weather awning.The food ranges from fish and chips tomore exotic fare. The lunch menu is alsoavailable in the bar. Sunday’s menuincludes brunch and roasts.Open Monday-Thursday 11.30am-12am, Friday and Saturday 11.30am-1am, Sunday 12pm-10.30pm.Restaurant service: Monday-Friday lunch12pm-2.30pm, dinner 6.30pm-11pm,Saturday lunch 12pm-3.30pm, dinner6.30pm-11pm, Sunday 12pm-9pm. Barmenu: Monday-Friday 12pm-2.30pm,Saturday 12pm-3.30pm, Sunday 12pm-4pm. The evening bar snacks menu isavailable daily, 6pm-10.30pm.17 Mossop Street, SW3 2LYT: 020 7581 0005www.theadmiralcodrington.co.ukBartsBarts is a ‘secret’ speakeasy-style baron Sloane Avenue. To find it, you have to

63 | FOOD AND DRINK | Pubs, bars and nightlifewalk through a large 1930s apartmentbuilding until you come to a black doorwith a lantern and an inconspicuoussign.Inside, the bar is decorated with quirkyand antique ornaments, and there’s afancy dress box packed with wigs, costumesand hats. Barts plays ‘Prohibitionera’ music and has a Cuban-themedgarden. Cocktails, snacks and canapésare served, including sharing cocktailsserved in teapots or top hats.Monday-Thursday 6pm-12.30am,Friday-Saturday 6pm-1.30am, Sunday6pm-11pm.Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DWT: 020 7581 3355www.barts-london.comBeaufort House(see Restaurants for brasserie)The ground floor cocktail bar andbrasserie are open to the public, whilethe upper floors are part of a privatemembers’ club. In the evening it’s muchmore of a bar, with mixologists creatingsignature and classic cocktails.Members have access to the members’lounge/bar/restaurant, the clubThe Botanistroom and the Penthouse ChampagneBar. Contact the venue regardingmembership queries.Brasserie and cocktail bar openSunday-Wednesday 10am-12.30pm,Thursday-Saturday 10am-1.30pm.354 King’s Road, SW3 5UZT: 020 7352 2828www.beauforthousechelsea.co.ukThe BotanistThe Botanist, sister site to Tom and EdMartin’s The Cadogan Arms, nodstowards Sir Hans Sloane in both itsname and the backlit drawings of floraand fauna on the restaurant wall. It’s apopular drinking spot for locals and hasa great selection of signature cocktails.On the breakfast menu, The Botanistpays special attention to hot chocolate inhonour of Sir Hans Sloane’s invention,here made with chocolate flakes andserved with a chocolate stirring stickfrom Rococo Chocolates. The choiceof tea for breakfast is also impressive.The lunch and dinner menus featureBritish/modern European dishes with aseasonal angle, including a good showingof fish, steak and oysters. There arealso menus for Saturday brunch/lunch,Sunday lunch, afternoon tea and pretheatre/post-theatre,and a substantialbar menu.Monday-Friday 8am-11.30pm,Saturday-Sunday 9am-11.30pm.Breakfast Monday-Friday 8am-11.30am,Saturday-Sunday 9am-11.30am. LunchMonday-Friday 12pm-3.30pm, Saturday-Sunday 12pm-4pm. Afternoon tea3.30pm-6pm daily. Dinner 5.30pm-11pmdaily. Pre and post-theatre menu5.30pm-6.30pm, 10pm-11pm. The barmenu is available 12pm-10.30pm daily,and bar customers are also able to orderfrom the restaurant menus during lunchand dinner service times.7 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EET: 020 7730 0077www.thebotanistonsloanesquare.comThe Builders ArmsA gastropub serving predominatelyBritish cuisine, the Builders Arms is ina Georgian building with a main bar anda dining area. It has a trendy, relaxedambience similar to the other Geronimopubs in the area, the Phoenix and theSurprise.There are roasts on Sundays andthe wine list has been put together byMaster of Wine John Clevely.Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-3pm,Saturday-Sunday 12pm-4pm. Dinner:Monday-Wednesday 7pm-10pm,Thursday-Saturday 7pm-11pm, Sunday7pm-9pm.13 Britten Street, SW3 3TYT: 020 7349 9040www.geronimo-inns.co.uk/thebuildersarms/The CadoganArmsYou can play pool upstairs on the firstfloor – there are three American eight-balltables available to play by the hour – andthe room can be hired out. A £10 dealincludes an hour of pool, a glass of wineor a bottled beer and mini cheeseburgers,fish and chips and sausage rolls. There’sa pub quiz on Mondays at 7.30pm(teams of up to six people, £2 each toplay, £100 bar tab for the winning team).The pool and quizzes might betraditional pub activities, but the food isdefinitely more of a brasserie style andranges from about £12-£23 for mains.There’s a lunch and dinner menu and aSunday lunch menu too.The selection of beers on tap is quitesmall, but there are some interestingbottled beers, including Dark BrewerySunburst and Samuel Smith’s OrganicLager, and there’s also a cocktail list.Monday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday11am-10.30pm. Food: Monday-Friday12pm-3.30pm and 6pm-10.30pm,Saturday 12pm-10.30pm, Sunday12pm-9pm.298 King’s Road, SW3 5UG.T: 020 7352 6500thecadoganarmschelsea.comThe Cadogan ArmsThe other Chelsea gastropub owned bybrothers Tom and Ed Martin (along withthe Botanist), the Cadogan Arms mixesthe feel of a proper English pub with thestyle of a brasserie restaurant.

64 | FOOD AND DRINK | Pubs, bars and nightlifeThe Cellar at the World’s End(see Restaurants)Chelsea PotterThe Chelsea Potter was originally calledthe Commercial Tavern and was built byentrepreneur Richard Smith, whoacquired the former grounds of a manorhouse in the 1830s and tried all sorts ofbusiness ideas there, including a pleasuregarden, a wash baths for workingmen, a theatre and finally a dance halland a tavern.The Commercial Tavern and the danceand entertainment venue the CommercialRooms or Commercial Hall – now theFounders’ Hall that houses classroomsat Hill House International Junior School– were both built around 1842.The tavern and the hall were connectedby an internal door, and it is thoughtthat the buildings were linked even whenthe hall was being used as a place ofworship later in the 19th century.Architects found the door opening whenthey were recently restoring theFounders’ Hall for the school.The tavern was renamed the ChelseaPotter in the 1950s, and was a hangoutfor King’s Road icons in the 1960s,including Jimi Hendrix and The RollingStones.Today the Chelsea Potter is a populartraditional English pub that serves caskales and British pub food. It has a fewtables outside for the lucky few who getthere early enough, and there’s usually acrowd balancing drinks on the outsidewindowsills in the evenings once thetables have been filled.119 King’s Road, SW3 4PLT: 020 3603 5764www.taylor-walker.co.uk/pubfood/chelsea-potter-chelsea/pid-C6708Coopers ArmsA pub on the corner of Redburn Streetand Flood Street, the Coopers Arms isThe CrossKeysdedicated to real ales and home-cookedfood, from sandwiches to bangers andmash, fish pie and curry. There’s also aSunday menu (available 12pm-9pm)which includes a Sunday roast.Open daily 12pm-11pm. Food servedMonday-Friday 12pm-3pm and 5pm-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 12pm-10pm.87 Flood Street, SW3 5TBT: 020 7376 3120www.coopersarms.co.ukThe Cross KeysFounded in 1708, the Cross Keys hascounted Dante Gabriel Rossetti, JMWTurner, James Abbott McNeill Whistler,John Singer Sargent and Agatha Christieamong its patrons.It’s a striking sight with the reliefs ofSt Peter, an angel and a heron on thebuilding’s front – the ‘cross keys’ symbolis a reference to the keys of heaven.The Cross Keys has a restaurant witha roof that can be opened and servesmodern European food. It also has privateevent rooms – the Gallery and theRoom at the Top.Bar: 12pm-12am. Restaurant:Monday-Tuesday 6pm-10.30pm,Wednesday-Saturday 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm, Sunday 12pm-3.30pm. Barfood available in the bar all day.1 Lawrence Street, SW3 5NBT: 020 7349 9111www.thexkeys.co.ukHenry J Beans Bar and GrillOnce the famous Six Bells pubfrequented by artists including Whistler,Henry J Bean’s is now an American barand grill. The food is classic Americanburgers, steaks and hotdogs, and there’san extensive spirits and cocktails list.It might not have the historic atmosphereof some of the other local pubs,but it makes up for it with its garden –it is huge by the standards of Chelsea,where outside drinking spots get verybusy. If you’re finding it tough to get aspace to drink outside or accommodatesmokers in your party, this is probably agood bet – although it too gets crowdedin the summer.Monday-Wednesday 11am-11pm,Thursday-Saturday 11am-12am, Sunday11am-12am. Children are not allowed inthe venue after 7pm.195-197 King’s Road, SW3 5EDT: 020 7352 9255www.henryjbeans.co.ukThe Henry RootThis bistro/wine bar/tea shop is namedafter the pseudonym used by WilliamDonaldson, who wrote letters lampooningthe wealthy, famous and influentialfrom this street. It aims to be a place torelax with a slice of cake and a cup oftea or glass of wine, or grab a bite to eatfrom the seasonal menu. Brunch isserved at weekends.JuJu9 Park Walk, SW10 0AJT: 020 7352 7040Monday-Friday 11am-11pm, Saturdayand Sunday 9.30am-11pm.www.thehenryroot.comThe Jam TreeThe Jam Tree is an open-plan gastropubwith a decked garden complete with itsown bar and a barbeque. The wine list issubstantial and there are speciality beersand a decent cocktail list, including thesignature Jam Mojito (white Cubanrum stirred with fresh mint, lime andraspberry jam).It hosts special events, such as a‘steak out’ evening and resident DJs,and the menus have a modern Britishand ‘colonial’ flavour. The Sunday menuincludes roasts. There’s also a specialmenu for when the barbeque is fired upon Thursday and Friday nights andall-day Saturday and Sunday, weather

65 | FOOD AND DRINK | Pubs, bars and nightlifepermitting, including jerked chicken leg,rib-eye steak and giant barbequeprawns.Open Sunday-Thursday 12pm-11pm,Friday-Saturday 11am-2am. Lunch:12pm-3pm. Dinner: 6pm-10pm.541 King’s Road, SW6 2EBT: 020 3397 3739www.thejamtree.com/chelsea/JuJuWinner of Best Bar at the London Cluband Bar Awards 2011, JuJu is a cocktailand champagne bar on the King’s Road,owned by ex-footballer Lee Chapmanand his actress wife Lesley Ash.Sharing plates of mostly pan-Asiandishes are served tapas-style, as well asparty menus (pre-order only). The cocktaillist is long, including non-alcoholicones, shared cocktails and pitchers.Look on the website for deals, such asafter-work drinks at a reduced price.Cocktail classes are available if youwant to learn to mix your own at home(from 3pm every day, pre-bookingrequired, £50 per person including pan-Asian tapas and up to four cocktails,minimum four people per booking).Monday 9pm-1.30am, Tuesday 8pm-1.30am, Wednesday 7pm-1.30am,Thursday 6pm-1.30am, Friday-Saturday5pm-2.30am, Sunday closed for privatebookings.316-318 King’s Road, SW3 5UHT: 020 7351 5998www.jujulondon.comKings ClubKing’s Road private members’ clubKing’s Club features the sumptuousPersian Room on the top level and aheated Roof Terrace, where you canenjoy shishas. A Middle Eastern menu isserved up in the Lounge. The MainRoom hosts club nights at the weekendand private events during the week.Kings Club has recently launchedKittsJajouka, a live music and entertainmentnight held on Tuesdays.Tuesday-Thursday 6pm-10pm (upstairscocktail lounge), Friday-Saturday6pm-3am.107 King’s Road, SW3 4PAT: 020 7351 5521www.kingsclubchelsea.comKittsA boutique private members’ club,with a name inspired by the travelsof Sir Hans Sloane, who conductedbotanical research on the Caribbeanisland of St Kitts.7-12 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EGT: 020 7881 5990www.kittslondon.comThe Markham InnThe duo behind Mahiki and WhiskyMist, Nick House and Piers Adam,recently opened this bar/brasserie inChelsea Green.It has an all-day modern Europeanmenu, with an emphasis on British,seasonal ingredients, and also servesbreakfast daily, brunch on weekends androasts on Sundays. The wine list focuseson the old world, and the beveragemenu includes homemade cream soda,cloudy original lemonade and gingerbeer. There are also thick homemadeshakes. Cocktails are served with a jar offreshly salted or smoked popcorn.Monday-Friday 8am-11pm, Saturday-Sunday 9am-11pm. Breakfast: Daily until11am. Brunch: Weekends 11am-4pm.Roasts: Sunday 11am-4pm.2 Elystan Street, SW3 3NST: 020 7581 9139themarkhaminn.comThe PhoenixA popular spot for a drink and a bite toeat, the Phoenix is a relaxed pub thatserves a mix of modern and traditionalBritish food, including Sunday roastsand daily specials.There’s an extensive wine list, plusguest wines and some real ales. A fewoutside tables are available for al frescodining or drinking. Check the website fordetails of events, including food-themednights.Kitchen: Monday-Saturday 12pm-3pm, 7pm-10pm, Sunday 12pm-8pm.23 Smith Street, SW3 4EET: 020 7730 9182www.geronimo-inns.co.uk/thephoenix/The Pig’s EarWith past lives in the 19th century as theBlack Lion and the 20th century as theFront Page, today the Pig’s Ear is agastropub and restaurant servingBritish/French brasserie food with anemphasis on seasonal produce.The menu is changed daily and foodis served in the bar and the adjoiningBlue Room, which has an open fire inthe winter and takes reservations. Theoak-panelled dining room on the firstfloor opens during busier evening andweekend lunches and feels more like arestaurant – reservations are essential.Royal Borough of Kensingon & Chelsea, Family & Children’s ServiceDrinks include British cask ales fromSambrooks Brewery – a local microbreweryin Battersea – as well as the signaturePig’s Ear from the Uley Brewery inGloustershire. There are also bottledEuropean cider and lagers and the winelist has a predominately French influence.Kitchen: Monday-Friday 12pm-3pm,6pm-10pm, Saturday 12.30pm-10.30pm, Sunday 12.30pm-9pm.35 Old Church Street, SW3 5BST: 020 7352 2908www.thepigsear.infoThe Queen’s HeadA gay pub just off the King’s Road,the Queen’s Head is traditional andunpretentious. It has some outsidetables, tucked away from the bustleof the main roads, and the pub itself islarger than it first appears because it issplit into several rooms.25-27 Tryon Street, SW3 3LGT: 020 7589 0262RafflesA famous private members’ club, namedafter the colonial mogul Sir ThomasThe Black Lion(now The Pig’sEar) in the1860s

66 | FOOD AND DRINK | Pubs, bars and nightlifeStamford Raffles.Membership is available by invitationonly and you must first be put forward bya current member, but once gained getsyou privileges including ski trips, summerparties abroad and away days. There isa dress code – see the website fordetails.Wednesday-Saturday 10pm-5.30am.297 King’s Road, SW3 5EWT: 020 7351 4964www.raffleschelsea.comRoyal Court Café BarThe Royal Court Café Bar is a reallygood option for a central meeting placeeven if you’re not going to see a show,because it’s right next to Sloane SquareTube station.Set in the 19th-century auditorium pit,it’s a surprisingly big space. It servesseasonal British food and uses curedmeats, oils and olives from the Spanishfood emporium Brindisa, meat fromSmithfield Market and cheese fromNeal’s Yard Dairy. Sausage rolls, tortillasand cakes are on offer if you’re just a bitpeckish, as well as a more substantialmenu if you’re hungry. Book in advanceif you want a pre-show dinner. The bar isstocked with seasonal wines chosen byBibendum.Monday-Saturday 12pm until late.Lunch and dinner served 12pm-8pm,bar snacks served throughout theevening.Royal Court Theatre, Sloane Square,SW1W 8AS. T: 020 7565 5058www.royalcourttheatre.com/your-visit/cafe-bar/The Sporting PageThe Sporting Page is a gastropub thatshows sporting events (you can evenbook a private booth to watch the game)and has four screens.The food is generally pub classics,with the menu changing to take advantageof what is in season and what theweather is like. Check the website forevents and offers. The drinks menu isextensive and has a good range of beersand wines, as well as some cocktails.The pavement terrace is heated in winter.Royal Court Café BarMonday-Saturday 11am-11pm,Sunday 11am-10.30pm. Lunch and dinnerevery day. Brunch: From 11amSaturday and Sunday.6 Camera Place, SW10 0BHT: 020 7349 0455www.thesportingpagechelsea.co.ukThe SurpriseA sister pub to the Phoenix and theBuilders Arms, the Surprise is a gastropubthat serves up small plates of Britishfood, with the idea being that you ordera few dishes rather than picking one.It has real ales on tap and servesSunday roasts.The wines are chosen by Master ofWine John Clevely.Lunch: Monday-Friday 12pm-3pm,Saturday 12pm-4pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-10pm. Food served allday Sunday, 12pm-9pm.6 Christchurch Terrace, SW3 4AJT: 020 7351 6954www.geronimo-inns.co.uk/thesurpriseThe SurpriseSushinho(see Restaurants)Sydney ArmsThe Sydney Arms is traditional in styleand serves pub and brasserie food.The cocktail list includes the memorablynamed Basil Fawlty (Smirnoff No.21vodka blended with apple juice, passionfruitand homemade basil syrup) andSydney James.The bar snacks are a posh twist onstandard pub favourites. It also servesbreakfast.The Sydney Arms shows live sports onfive screens inside and outside the pub,and you can book a table in advance toguarantee your spot.Monday-Wednesday 12pm-11pm,Thursday-Friday 12pm-12am, Saturday10am-12am, Sunday 10am-10pm.70 Sydney Street, SW3 6NJ. T: 020 73527924www.sydneyarmschelsea.comThe TrafalgarDon’t be too put off by the bright purpleexterior – the Trafalgar is nicer insidethan it looks from the outside, and it’spretty spacious. It even has a small gardenwith heating and a sheltered area.The venue has a good selection ofspeciality beers too, from regularlychanging cask ales to bottled beers fromaround the world. The spirits are goodquality and there are homemade softdrinks in summer.The food is seasonal and there’s alsoa brunch menu. Sunday’s menu includesroasts.Check the website for more detailsand offers.Monday-Tuesday 11.30am-11pm,Wednesday-Saturday 11.30am-12am,Sunday 11.30am-10.30pm.200 King’s Road, SW3 5XPT: 020 7349 1831www.thetrafalgarchelsea.co.uk

67 | INSIDER | Design inspirationThe Insider’s Guideto designinspirationAnya Hindmarch BespokeBy Cassandra Goad, whostarted her business in 1985and now has a shop on SloaneStreet. Her unique jewellerycombines traditional methodswith modern designs to createindividual, wearable pieces.Cassandra’s passion forgemology is reflected in thediverse, colourful and raregemstones she uses, includingprasiolites, kyanites,tourmalines and fire opals.She travels the world sourcingstones and gleaning inspiration.In addition to her own designsand collections, Cassandraoffers a bespoke servicecreating custom-made jewelleryin her own in-house workshopthe ski slopes in Italy, I went straightto see Anya and asked her to write amessage in a wallet for him so he wouldnever forget that trip. “Pronto soccorsoRio Negro” was the message, after theslope he fell on.St Mary’s Bourne StreetI walk past this beautiful, hidden churchevery day. It is an oasis of calm andholiness amid the bustle of London life.Some of my most successful designscame about after I had stopped by here.John Sandoe Books,10 Blacklands TerraceWhenever I think about a new country totravel to, I always walk across to JohnSandoe and ask them to suggest booksof all sorts to start me off on my journey.Their advice is unfailingly excellent,diverse and provocative.Anya Hindmarch Bespoke,15-17 Pont StreetWhen my husband had an accident onCuisine de Bar by PoilâneCuisine de Bar by Poilâne,39 Cadogan GardensThe Poilâne café always reminds me ofthe day my five-year-old daughter stoodover the Metro air vent in Paris and herskirt flew up. Her little face was full ofdelight at the unexpected magic. Wewere walking to buy our bread at Poilânein the days when there was no Poilâne inLondon. To my great joy, they haveopened a café just off the King’s Road.All the best creative days start with a bigslice of their bread.Hunan, 51 Pimlico RoadIn 2004, I set off to China, climbed theGreat Wall, stared at the TerracottaWarriors, walked the streets of theForbidden City and marvelled at thebeautiful gardens of Suzhou. And everywheremy sketchbook came with me.When I got back, I took my team toHunan and with their delicious food they'transported' us all to China for anevening.

68 | SHOPPING | Spotlight on shopsShop and awePeter JonesSpotlighton shopsAs well as being home to some of theworld’s most famous stores (Harrodsand Harvey Nicks being just two), thearea also boasts small but brilliantboutiques. We’ve picked out just a fewin our Spotlight on Shops – for more,see the Shopping directory, page 73Department storesHarrodsA five-minute walk from its rival HarveyNichols, Harrods is a famously upmarketdepartment store. It is enormous,covering 4.5 acres, with seven floors.Its history is as rich as its décor.Charles Henry Harrod opened a wholesalegrocers with a special interest in teain 1834 in the East End of London, andmoved to a single room in Knightsbridgein 1849 to capitalise on the GreatExhibition in Hyde Park in 1851. Thebusiness expanded under the leadershipof Harrod’s son, Charles Digby Harrod,and it took over adjacent buildings,becoming a thriving department store.Disaster struck in December 1883when the entire store burned to theground but, incredibly, Charles still fulfilledall of his customers’ Christmasdeliveries, making record profits. Thestore was rebuilt with the help of architectCharles William Stephens, who gaveit a grand style.By the 1890s, Harrods had become apublic company and, in 1898, it installedone of the world’s first escalators – witha brandy for nervous customers at thetop.In the Second World War, Harrodsturned its focus from luxury goods toproducing uniforms, parachutes andparts for Lancaster bombers.The House of Fraser Group boughtHarrods in 1959 and the young fashionboutique Way In opened there in 1967.The store returned to private ownershipin 1985 when it was bought byMohamed Al Fayed and his brother Ali.They implemented a £300 million refurbishmentplan. In 2010, Qatar HoldingHarrodsbought Harrods for £1.5 billion.The store has suffered two IRA attacksin its history – one in 1983, when a carbomb exploded in an adjacent street,and one in 1993, when a bomb was putin a bin outside.In addition to its reputation for luxurygoods, Harrods is known for its lavishstyle and famous food halls, which are ajoy to wander around. It also has a hugerange of restaurants and cafés and evenhas a tasting room for wine samplingand dining.The store has a dress code whichasks that all clothing is clean and presentable,not too revealing and thatappropriate footwear is worn. Small bagsand rucksacks are allowed, but large

69 | SHOPPING | Spotlight on shopsbags and rucksacks must be checkedinto the left luggage service. The closesttube station is Knightsbridge, on thePiccadilly line.Monday-Saturday 10am-8pm, Sunday11.30am-6pm (browsing only between11.30am and 12pm on Sundays).Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road,Knightsbridge, SW1X 7XL (enter SW31BB for sat-navs). T: 020 7730 1234www.harrods.comPeter JonesPeter Jones is a huge, eight-floor departmentstore opposite the Royal CourtTheatre on Sloane Square. It is namedafter its founder, Peter Rees Jones, aWelsh draper who moved to London andstarted a shop in Hackney, then movedto Bloomsbury, then to Draycott Avenueand eventually to 4-6 King’s Road in1877.The business expanded until it tookover 28 houses and a new building wasdeveloped in the 1880s. He is thought toPeter Jonesbe the first person to light his store withelectric lighting.When Jones died in 1905, JohnLewis, who owned a shop in OxfordStreet, bought Peter Jones. Legend hasit that Lewis put £22,500 in cash in hispocket, caught a bus to Sloane Squareand bought Peter Jones in his lunchbreak.John Lewis’s son, John Spedan Lewis,ran the Peter Jones store from 1914 andcame up with the idea of making theentire business a partnership, with all thepermanent staff becoming partners andsharing in the profits, giving them a voicein a business they co-owned.The John Lewis Partnership wasfounded in 1920 and has a written constitutionsetting out its principles, governanceand rules. The idea is that wheneveryou go into a John Lewis shop, youare served by an owner.The present Peter Jones building, nowGrade II-listed, was built in 1936. Themodernist design by Slater, Crabtree andMoberly, with its ‘glass curtain’ wall,caused quite a stir.A five-year, £107 million refurbishmentof the store was completed in 2004. Ithas a brasserie, an espresso bar and atop-floor restaurant.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-7pm(Wednesdays until 8pm, bank holidays10am-6pm), Sundays 10.30am-5pm(browsing only between 10.30am and11am on Sundays).Peter Jones, Sloane Square, SW1 8ELT: 020 7730 3434www.peterjones.co.ukDesignerdestinationsBeatrix OngBeatrix Ong, who rose from being afashion intern at Harper's Bazaar tobecome creative director of JimmyHarvey NicholsHarvey Nichols, affectionately known asHarvey Nicks, is an eight-floor luxurydepartment store specialising in fashion,beauty and lifestyle products, with thefifth floor dedicated to food, wine andrestaurants.It started as a linen shop in a terracedhouse on the corner of Knightsbridgeand Sloane Street in 1813, opened byBenjamin Harvey. It passed onto hisdaughter in 1920, on the understandingthat she go into partnership with ColonelNichols, selling Oriental carpets, silksand luxury goods alongside the linens.In 1880, the present building was built.Harvey Nichols was bought byDebenhams in 1919 and became part ofthe Burton Group in 1985, but wasacquired by Dickson Concepts(International) Ltd in 1991. In 1996, itwas listed on the London StockExchange, but was de-listed in 2003when it returned to private ownership.Today, Harvey Nichols has six UKstores, including the flagship atKnightsbridge, and one in Dublin, as wellas five stores in Saudia Arabia, HongKong, Dubai and Turkey. Future storesinclude one in Kuwait and a secondstore in Hong Kong. The group alsolaunched restaurants in the OXO Towerand Prism Restaurant and Bar.The fifth floor of the Knightsbridgestore houses a restaurant, a café andChoo, launched her shoe range in2002 and was made an MBE in 2011for services to British fashion.Her concept store on Pavilion Roadshowcases her collections of shoes andaccessories.Monday-Saturday 10am-6.30pm.188 Pavilion Road, SW3 2BFT:020 3463 7369www.beatrixong.comterrace, a bar, a food market and a wineshop, while the fourth floor featuresbeauty services including a BeyondMediSpa, SEN treatment rooms and theDaniel Hersheson Salon. The Fifth FloorCafé recently had a major makeover, featuringan open plan kitchen and a golden,horseshoe-shaped espresso bar.The closest tube station isKnightsbridge, on the Piccadilly line.Monday-Saturday 10am-8pm, Sunday11.30am-6pm (browsing only between11.30am and 12pm on Sundays).Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge,SW1X 7RJ. T: 020 7235 5000www.harveynichols.comCassandra GoadJewellery designer Cassandra Goadlaunched her business more than 25years ago and soon moved to SloaneStreet, where she can be found next toHoly Trinity Church. The store, whichtakes up four floors, features twoshowrooms, a private room for specialcommissions, a design studio and anin-house workshop. Cassandra often

70 | SHOPPING | Spotlight on shopsuses unusual stones and her designs areclassical with a quirky touch.Monday-Friday 10am-5.30pm, openon some Saturdays (closed on Saturdaysin July and August).147 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7730 2202www.cassandragoad.comChloéKnown for its elegant, feminine andromantic collections, Chloé celebrates its60th anniversary in 2012. While there areChloé ranges in luxury department storesincluding Harrods and Harvey Nichols,this is London’s only standalone Chloéboutique. It offers ready-to-wear, accessoriesand fragrance lines.Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm(Wednesday until 7pm).152-153 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BXT: 020 7823 5348www.chloe.comLulu GuinnessBritish accessories designer LuluGuinness is famous for her witty handbagsand some of her designs are in thepermanent fashion collection atthe Victoria and AlbertMuseum. Fashion fansshould make time to popinto her Ellis Street store –even if you don’t end upbuying anything, it’s awonderful showcase ofher quirky style.Monday-Friday 10am-6pm, Saturday 10am-6pm.3 Ellis Street, SW1X 9ALT: 020 7823 4828www.luluguinness.comManolo BlahnikShoe icon ManoloBlahnik’s flagship store is in OldChurch Street. His dramatic designsare spectacular – worth a look for anyfashion (or Sex and the City) fan.Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm.49-51 Old Church Street, SW3 5BST: 020 7352 8622www.manoloblahnik.comMaria GrachvogelDesigner Maria Grachvogel recentlymoved into Culford Gardens from SloaneStreet. The three-storey townhouse,designed by Russell Sage, features anatelier, a couture and bridal space andthe ready-to-wear collection.She says her aim is ‘to create piecesthat when worn make you look and feelamazing’ and her mission is to design forall women – rather than use a fit model,she uses real women. It makes for flattering,beautiful clothes, and her designsare often seen on the red carpet.Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm(Wednesday until 7pm).18 Culford Gardens, Blacklands Terrace,SW3 2ST. T: 020 7245 9331www.mariagrachvogel.comMary QuantMary Quant, the designer thatkickstarted the King’s Road’sreputation for fashion withBazaar in 1955 (see Historyand King’s Road in Streetsand Sights), has her selftitledLondon shop in Dukeof York Square. It sells fashionand cosmetics and thereis a makeover service.Monday-Saturday 10am-6.30pm (Wednesday until7pm), Sunday 11am-5pm.37 Duke of York Square,Lulu Guinness SW3 4LY. T: 020 7881 9833www.maryquant.co.ukRigby & PellerRigby & Peller, famous forits luxurious lingerie, hasheld the Royal Warrant of Appointmentas Corsetieres to the Queen since 1960.It’s a family-run business and its flagshipstore is on the King’s Road.Monday-Saturday 10am-7pm(Wednesday until 8pm), Sunday 12pm-6pm.13 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 0845 076 5545www.rigbyandpeller.comSelina BlowSelina Blow launched her first collectionin 1992 and is known for her sharp,clean tailoring and bold colours. Herready-to-wear range is available in herretail store just off Sloane Street.Monday-Friday 10am-6pm, Saturday11am-6pm.1 Ellis Street, SW1X 9AL. T: 020 77302077www.selinablow.comWorlds EndVivienne Westwood has played animportant role in Chelsea’s history (seeHistory and King’s Road in Streets andSights) and her presence is still felt onthe King’s Road with her wonderfullyeccentric shop.Its design is a fusion of The OldCuriousity Shop and a galleon,with a huge clock on its front thatspins backwards and deliberatelysloping floors. It is, infact, the same shop thatused to be called SEX –where Johnny Rottenauditioned for the SexPistols – and waslater rebrandedSeditionaries. It wasManoloBlahnikrenamed and remodelled as Worlds Endin 1980. With its unusual, outlandishand edgy fashion, it is still pushingboundaries and challenging the mainstreamtoday.430 King’s Road, SW10 0LRT: 020 7352 6551www.worldsendshop.co.ukSomethingdifferentBasia ZarzyckaA sparkling chest of accessories,garments, things for brides, antiquehandbags and hair combs, going intoBasia Zarzycka is like stepping intoanother world.She is inspired by nature and folklore,and her unique designs are unusual andspectacular, and her customers haveincluded Kylie Minogue, Johnny Deppand Monica Bellucci. Before last year'sRoyal wedding, Kate, William and Harrypaid a visit.Basia explains: “Everything here ismade from scratch using old-fashionedtechniques and I stamp it all with mypersonality, with flowers and stones andsparkly things, to bring a smile to people’sfaces.”Past commissions have included atiara for a real swan in an advertisement,and a wedding dress with a train 12metres long and weighing 42 kilos – theyhad to make little wheels to carry it on –studded with Swarovski crystals and3D flowers.54 Sloane Square, SW1W 8AXT: 020 7730 1660www.basia-zarzycka.comBritish Red CrossCharity shops in wealthy areas get somehigh quality donations, and the BritishRed Cross shop in Old Church Street iswell worth a look.

71 | SHOPPING | Spotlight on shopsLook out for vintage gems and famouslabels – this particular branch is one ofthe British Red Cross’s specialist designercharity shops. You could find yourselfa bargain and do your bit for charity atthe same time.Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm.69-71 Old Church Street, SW3 5BST: 0845 054 7101www.redcross.org.ukThe Chelsea GardenerThe Chelsea Gardener in ChelseaFarmers Market has plants, furniture,containers and accessories, and theexpert team can give you gardening tipsand advise on design.Monday-Saturday 9am-6pm, Sunday12pm-6pm. In the spring, the hourschange to 9am-7pm Monday-Saturday(Sunday remains 12pm-6pm).125 Sydney Street, SW3 6NRT: 020 7352 5656www.chelseagardener.comJohn SandoeA wonderful independent bookshop withan enthusiastic and knowledgeable teamof staff. It was set up by John Sandoe in1957 and in 1989 it was sold to membersof staff. It’s a great place for browsingand they’ll try to hunt down any bookyou ask for, even if it’s out of print.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-5.30pm(until 7.30pm on Wednesdays), Sunday12pm-6pm (except for bank holidayweekends, when it is closed bothSunday and Monday).10 Blacklands Terrace, SW3 2SRT: 020 7589 9473www.johnsandoe.comPet PavilionA pet grooming, food and accessoriesshop in Chelsea Farmers Market. Theyalso run a dog walking service and offera delivery service for all their products,including for grooming – they can pickBasia Zarzyckaup your pet and return them lookinggreat.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-6pm,Sunday 11am-6pm.125 Sydney Street, SW3 6NRT: 020 7376 8800www.petpavilion.co.ukThe Shop at BluebirdThe Shop at Bluebird opened in 2005and is a concept store taking inspirationfrom the boutiques of the Sixties andSeventies, when the King’s Road was amelting pot of styles and fashions.It sells everything from designer dressesto furniture to books and music. Italso has a spa and beauty area whereyou can get pampered, pop-up spacesfor chic, unusual brands and it hostsevents.If you’re looking for a gift that’s a bitdifferent, this is a good place to start.Monday-Saturday 10am-7pm, Sunday12pm-5pm.350 King’s Road, SW3 5UUT: 020 7351 3873www.theshopatbluebird.comRay WardRay Ward provides quality shootingsupplies, luxury rifles and shotguns andexpert advice, offering brands such asBoss & Co, Holland & Holland andJames Purdey and Sons.Ray Ward celebrated its 50th anniversaryby branching into the gunsmithtrade and releasing the first pair of RayWard shotguns.Monday-Friday 9.30am-6pm (Fridayduring the hunting season, October 1-January 31, 8.30am-7pm). Saturday9.30am-5.30pm (during the huntingseason 9am-5.30). Sunday (duringthe hunting season only) 10am-4pm.Closed on Sundays for the rest ofthe year.The garden atThe ChelseaGardener12 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PUT: 0800 953 5844/020 3283 8944www.rayward.co.ukR. SolesR. Soles was set up by Douglas Berneyand opened on the King’s Road in 1975.It’s an independent shop selling supercoolcowboy boots, which have featuredon catwalks in New York, London andParis. The boots are designed by JudyRothchild.Monday-Saturday 1am-7pm, Sunday12pm-6pm.109A King’s Road, SW3 4PAT: 020 7351 5520www.rsoles.comVV RouleauxA gorgeous ribbons and trimmings shop,full of lace, feathers, flowers and silk. Itwas started in 1990 by Annabel Lewis,who previously ran a flower shop. And itdoesn’t stop at ribbons – there’s everythingfrom pretty cushions to woodenbangles to a vintage lace bridal headdress.Whether you want to customise anoutfit, design clothes or decorate yourhome, it’s a place to spark creativity.Monday-Saturday 9.30am-6pm,Wednesday 10.30am-6.30pm, Sunday12pm-4pm.261 Pavilion Road, SW1X 0BPT: 020 7730 3125www.vvrouleaux.com

72 | INSIDER | Quirky shopsJohn Sandoe,10 Blacklands TerraceLaunched as a book shop by JohnSandoe in 1957, the three floors of this18th-century building just off the King’sRoad are crammed and chaotic withbooks piled on the stairs and on everyflat surface.The cramming is real – there are25,000 books in this tiny store – but thechaos is an illusion: if the book you areJohnSandoeBooksThe Insider’s Guideto quirky shopsBy Erik Brown, gentlemanjournalist, back-bedroomguitarist, occasionalfalconer and publisher ofSloane Squareasking for is in stock, staff will be able totake you straight to it. Brilliantly, andunlike the chain bookstores, they seemto have one copy of everything. And ifthey don’t have it they can usually get itfor you faster than you can get it on line.Despite the books on the stairs, theonly real danger in John Sandoe is thatyou will lose the rest of your day. It’s likeslipping into a different dimension.Andrews Pharmacy,149B Sloane StreetThe B behind that number is significantbecause it suggests half a shop ratherthan a whole one, and that is prettybang-on.This is the tiniest chemist’s inChristendom, stacked to the rafters withpills, potions and oddities likeMediterranean natural sea sponges anda Georgian razor with a fake horn handle.All of this is presided over by residentcomic and pharmacist NormanWaidhofer, one of Chelsea’s genuinecharacters. Members of the royal family,film stars and multi-millionaires areamong the customers.Artisan du Chocolat,89 Lower Sloane StreetEvery Christmas, just before my last fitnesstraining session of the year, I slipdown to L’Artisan du Chocolat to buy my(female) personal trainer a big box full ofthese special handmade chocolates. Andwhen I hand them over, my trainer smilesa smile that reminds me of kids unwrappingpresents around a Christmas tree.A couple of years ago, I caught herchopping up a chocolate with a knife sothat all of her colleagues in the sportsteam at the Lansdowne Club could havea taste. Now I buy two boxes – one forthe sports crew and the other for mytrainer to take home to her mum and sister.These chocolates are so fresh thatthey have to be refrigerated – if they lastthe night. Usually, they don’t.Green & Stone of Chelsea,259 Kings RoadThis store is so compellingly attractivethat it frightens me. Historic and beautifullylaid out, it contains everything anartist needs and lots more besides. Forinstance, it has a range of antique cameralucida for sale. A camera lucida wasan optical device used by artists to projectan image of the subject on to paper –it’s related to a camera obscura.Green & Stone of ChelseaThere are travelling paint tables, mannequins,pen racks, writing boxes, blotters,inkwells… It’s enough to make anybodywant to become an artist.Founded in 1927, Green & Stone hasoccupied the same site since 1934.Previously the store was a shop for theWomen’s Suffragette Movement.Partridges, Duke of York SquareGrocer to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II,Partridges is up there with Harrods’ foodhalls and Fortnum & Mason as an icon ofgrocery opulence.Founded in 1973 by MP RichardShepherd and run by his affable brotherJohn, it is at first a visual experience –with hams and cans and bread and readymeals and thousands of other foodstuffsvying for attention. Then it is an olfactoryexperience, with the smell of freshlybakedcroissants and roasting chickenblowing away the diesel fumes of theKing's Road.There are a couple of cafés inPartridges – one out front and the othertucked away in a back corner – that aregood for impromptu meetings with excellentcoffee. And if you’re lucky you mightrun into John Shepherd, a real gent andsince 2008 President of the Royal WarrantHolders’ Association.

73 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryTateossianShoppingdirectoryFashionKidsJewelleryBooksHealth and beautyFashionÀ La ModeSells some of the most desirabledesigner collections from around theworld. Free alterations and worldwidedelivery available.10 Symons Street, SW3 2TJT: 020 7730 7180www.alamodefashion.co.ukAgent ProvocateurLuxury designer lingerie.16 Pont Street, SW1X 9ENT: 020 7235 0229www.agentprovocateur.comagnès bChic women’s fashion from Paris.31-32 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 2255www.agnesb.comAlberta Ferretti – PhilosophyItalian designer boutique selling elegantfeminine day and eveningwear pieceswith intricate detailing.205-206 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QX (at 73-74 Sloane Street during renovation worksand moving back in summer 2012).T: 020 7235 2349www.albertaferretti.comAll SaintsMenswear and womenswear that is allabout mixing the old with the new,restyled with a contemporary edge.14 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 0404www.allsaints.co.ukAnne FontaineFrench shirt designer that promises thatthe cut and fabric of their creations willsuit every woman’s needs in terms ofcomfort and elegance.14 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NBT: 020 7838 9210www.annefontaine.comAnya HindmarchA leading British accessories designer.Anya's designs are synonymous withbeautiful craftsmanship, exceptionalquality and an element of humour. Piecesinclude handbags, shoes, luggage, smallleather goods, coats, cashmere andbeachwear.157-158 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BTT: 020 7730 0961www.anyahindmarch.comAnya Hindmarch BespokeA beautiful, award-winning store specialisingin uniquely personalised productsfor men and women. Choose your ownleather or fabric and embellish with aninlaid photograph or embossing in yourown handwriting.15-17 Pont Street, SW1X 9EHT: 020 7838 9177www.anyahindmarch.comBanana RepublicAn accessible luxury brand offeringhigh-quality clothing and accessoriescollections for men and women, andsuperior customer service. From workto casual occasions, it offers covetable,modern style.20-23 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 4704www.bananarepublic.euBasia ZarzyckaCouture bridal and evening dresses, andaccessories including shoes and tiaras.Every bride has a free consultation toestablish what will suit her. For moredetails, see Spotlight on Shops.54 Sloane Square, SW1W 8AXT: 020 7730 1660www.basia-zarzycka.comBCBG Max AzriaThis is the first shop in London for the

74 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryfashion house, which claims to delivera vision of global style and attitude.23-25 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 020 7824 9840www.bcbg.comBeatrix OngLuxury shoes, accessories and luggagefor men and women. For more, seeSpotlight on Shops.188 Pavilion Road, SW3 2BFT: 020 3463 7369www.beatrixong.comBerlutiFamous for being one of the finest men'sshoemakers, operating since 1895. Itoffers a bespoke service and ready-towearshoes.4 Harriet Street, SW1X 9JRT: 020 7823 2300.www.berluti.comBillionaire Italian CoutureHaute couture brand devoted to menlaunched by entrepreneur Flavio Briatore.This boutique hosts the brand’s collection,including prêt-a-porter, luggage andaccessories plus a made-to-measureand personalised items service.9 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7245 0096www.billionairecouture.comBoggi MilanoLuxury shop offering traditional andstylish Italian men’s ready-to-wear. Thecollection includes casual and formalwear, as well as personal tailoring.28 Sloane Square, SW1W 8ABT: 020 7823 5044www.boggi.comBottega VenetaA leader in luxury fashion, best knownfor its signature leather goods, includinghandbags, luggage and leather wallets.33 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NREmilio PucciT: 020 7838 9394www.bottegaveneta.comBroraBeautiful clothing and fine Scottishcashmere for women, men, childrenand babies.6-8 Symons Street, SW3 2TJT: 020 7730 2665344 King's Road, SW3 5URT: 020 7352 3697www.brora.co.ukBrownsFine selection of womenswear fromprestigious luxury labels and upcomingnew talent, including designers exclusiveto Browns.6C Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7514 0040www.brownsfashion.comBrunello CucinelliLuxury Italian fashion for men and women.159 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BT. T: 0207730 5207www.brunellocucinelli.itCalvin KleinMen’s and women’s underwear from theworld-famous designer.68 King's Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7838 0647www.cku.comCarine Gilson Lingerie CoutureThe finest silk, the airiest Chantilly lace,hand-crafted haute couture: underwearthat deserves to be worn as outerwear.11 Pont Street, SW1X 9EHT: 020 7235 9491www.carinegilson.comCesare PaciottiBeautiful shoes, handbags and jewelleryfor men and women, from this respectedItalian company.8A Sloane Street, SW1X 9LAT: 020 7235 3393www.cesare-paciotti.comChanelBoutique offering ready-to-wear clothingfrom this famous French fashion house,along with shoes, accessories, finejewellery, perfumery and cosmetics.167-169 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QFT: 020 7235 6631www.chanel.comChloéThe Chloé girl is “sassy, sexy andultra-cool”, says this prestigious Frenchfashion company. Its clothes combinefemininity and romance with a street-crededge. For more, see Spotlight on Shops.152-153 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BXT: 020 7823 5348www.chloe.comChristian DiorWorld-famous French fashion housestocking ladies’ ready-to-wear clothing,leather goods, shoes and fine jewellery.31 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NRT: 020 7245 1330www.dior.comCoccinelleStylish Italian handbags, shoes, scarves,jewellery and leather and cashmereclothing.13 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LY.T: 020 7730 7657www.coccinelle.comComptoir des CotonniersFrench women’s ready-to-wear brandwhose creative style and original imagehave won over a wide public throughcampaigns that illustrate the bond unitingmothers and daughters.15 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 020 7730 9600188A King's Road, SW3 5XPT: 020 7352 5249www.comptoirdescotonniers.comDolce & GabbanaBoutique selling the Italian designhouse’s ready-to-wear collections formen, together with a wide selection ofshoes and accessories.6 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7201 0140www.dolcegabbana.comElliot RhodesThe UK’s only custom belt-maker invitesyou to discover the world of custombelts and buckles. Classic, contemporaryand extravagant styles for both men andwomen.55 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 4000www.elliotrhodes.comEmilia Wickstead“A fresh approach to couture.” The lowerground floor is reserved for private clientsfor made-to-measure pieces in a chic,luxurious and intimate environment. Onthe ground floor the new atelier housesthis season’s ready-to-wear collection.28 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9RXT: 020 7235 1104www.emiliawickstead.comEmilio PucciThe Sloane Street boutique stocksready-to-wear clothes and accessories

75 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryfor women, and a small range of men’saccessories.170 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QGT: 020 7201 8171www.emiliopucci.comEmma HopeLuxury shoes and handbags. Emma’strademark is her exquisite use ofembroidered velvets and calf leathers.53 Sloane Square, SW1X 8AXT: 020 7259 9566www.emmahope.co.ukEric BompardLeading French cashmere designer,specialising in luxury clothing and accessoriesfor men, women and children.29 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 020 7730 9826www.eric-bompard.comErmanno ScervinoItalian couturier Ermanno says his stylebecomes fashion, because fashioncomes and goes but true style remains.198-199 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7235 0558www.ermannoscervino.itFendiDesigner boutique offering women’s andmen’s ready-to-wear fashions, shoesand accessories.181-182 Sloane Street., SW1X 9QPT: 020 7838 6288www.fendi.comFerragamoDesigner clothes for women. Quality,creativity and craftsmanship are thehallmarks of this Italian fashion label.207 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7838 7730www.ferragamo.comFranchetti BondFine leather accessories, with particularemphasis on sumptuous ladies’ handbagsand shoes made in classic designsby the best Italian artisans.50 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7823 5550www.franchettibond.comFratelli RossettiTraditional and stylish Italian shoes, bagsand fine leather clothing. Classic tastewith a personal twist.196 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7259 6397www.rossetti.itFrench SoleShoe shop selling more than 500 differentstyles and colour combinations ofstylish ballet flats. French Sole have alsorecently introduced an exciting range ofbags, small leather goods and flat bootsto their collection.6 Ellis Street, SW1X 9ALT: 020 7730 3771323 King’s Road, SW3 5EPT: 020 7351 1634www.frenchsole.comGabriela Ligenza HatsHigh-fashion hats and accessories.Gabriela Ligenza designs and sourcesclassic but contemporary items for hershop. Commissions welcome.5 Ellis Street, SW1X 9ALT: 020 7730 2200www.gabrielaligenza.comGianfranco FerréBoutique selling Italian fashion designsfor men and women.29 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NET: 020 7838 9576www.gianfrancoferre.comGieves & HawkesThis famous name from Savile Row presentsits full ready-to-wear collection,classic core essentials as well as amade-to-measure service with new offeringson fabrics and trims.33 Sloane Square, SW1W 8AQT: 020 7730 1777www.gievesandhawkes.comGinaA British design, manufacturing and retailcompany specialising in luxury designershoes and accessories for ladies.189 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QRT: 020 7235 2932www.gina.comGiorgio ArmaniReady-to-wear, accessories, fine jewelleryand watch collections for men andwomen. The boutique also offers amade-to-measure tailoring service formen and information on haute couturefor ladies.37 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LPT: 020 7235 6232www.giorgioarmani.comGiuseppe Zanotti DesignShoe designer that is no stranger to thered carpet, counting Cameron Diaz,HerveLegerPenélope Cruz and Jessica Biel amongits customers.49 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LU. T: 020 78389455www.giuseppezanottidesign.comGucciFlagship store offering the completerange of Gucci luxury fashion products.Ready-to-wear plus a new made-toorderservice. A full children’s range isalso now in store.18 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NET: 020 7235 6707www.gucci.comHackettBritish menswear label which bases itsreputation on a distinctive cut, the finestcloths, the use of colour and the qualityof its products.137-138 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AYT: 020 7730 3331www.hackett.comHeidi KleinEverything you need to look fabulous onyour holiday.257 Pavilion Road, SW1X 0BPT: 020 7259 9418www.heidiklein.comHermèsFashion house renowned for its leathergoods, ready-to-wear clothing, silk,accessories and porcelain. The companyboasts, “exquisite contemporary productscombining a passion for beauty, traditionand innovation.”179 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QPT: 020 7823 1014www.hermes.comHerve LegerSince 1985, the striking and sensualstyle of Herve Leger has attracted aninternational clientele consisting of theworld’s most fashionable women.

76 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryHollywood stars have become some ofthe label’s most devoted fans.29 Lowndes Street, SW1X 9HXT: 020 7201 2590www.herveleger.comHoganHigh-quality leathers offering chic designwith functionality. Stylish shoes, bagsand accessories for men, women andchildren.10 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7245 6363www.hoganworld.comJimmy ChooThe largest Jimmy Choo store worldwideand home to the label’s first VIP room.Glamorous shoes, boots, handbags andleather goods.32 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NRT: 020 7823 1051www.jimmychoo.comJitroisLeather and fur specialists.6F Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7245 6300www.jitrois.comLoro PianaLuxury cashmere products for men,women, children and the home.47 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LUT: 020 7235 3203www.loropiana.comLouis VuittonLuxury French fashion brand, sellingleather goods, fashion, accessories,jewellery, ready-to-wear and shoes.190-192 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7201 4190www.vuitton.comHoss IntropiaSpanish fashion label producingoriginal, eclectic and varied clothes andaccessories for today’s cosmopolitanwoman.27A Sloane Square, SW1W 8ABT: 020 7259 9072www.hossintropia.comHugo BossThe company’s flagship store in the UK,offering menswear, womenswear andaccessories.35-38 Sloane Square, SW1W 8AQT: 020 7259 1240www.hugoboss.comIntimissimiMen’s and women’s underwear from thisfamous Italian company.56b King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7584 6350www.intimissimi.comJigsawWomenswear, childrenswear andaccessories. This branch also hasthe concession Cabbages & Roses,which specialises in womenswear andhomeware.6 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 4404www.jigsaw-online.comJosephStores carrying the Joseph own-labelcollection, plus a selection of womenswearfrom some of the best designersof the moment.76 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 239516 Sloane Street, SW1 9LQT: 020 7735 1991www.joseph.co.ukKing’s Road Sporting ClubIndependent sportswear retailerspecialising in men’s and women’sactivewear, swimwear andfootwear.38-42 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7589 5418www.krsc.co.ukThe KooplesAn upmarket range designed for menand women.36 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7589 7696www.thekooples.co.ukLa Perla BoutiqueDesigner lingerie, swimwear, nightwearand fashion.163 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QBT: 020 7245 0527www.laperla.comLes Petites…Launched in 1992 by Isabelle Bénichou,this retailer is famous for flagship stylessuch as cashmeres and dresses.131 Sloane Street, SW1X 9ATT: 020 7259 9188www.lespetites.co.ukLiza Bruce SwimwearBoutique showcasing exclusive anddistinctive products: luxurious cashmere,made-to-measure swimwear, handcraftedjewellery, kaftans, cushions and antiquetextiles.9 Pont Street, SW1X 9EJT: 020 7235 8423www.lizabruce.comLK BennettLuxury shoes, clothes and accessories.18-21 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7881 0766www.lkbennett.comLK BennettLowndesMenswear shop selling Italian clothingincluding the Brioni brand, handmadetrousers, jackets and suits. For enquiries,please contact the shop by phone oremail.lowndesuk@aol.com.25C Lowndes Street, SW1X 9JFT: 020 7235 4383Lulu GuinnessBritish accessories designer Lulu isrenowned for her glamorous and wittyhandbags. The shop also sells jewellery,sunglasses, fragrances and umbrellas.For more, see Spotlight on Shops.3 Ellis Street, SW1X 9ALT: 020 7823 4828www.luluguinness.comMajeContemporary, free, daring, sensual anddelicate, Maje has developed a vibrantand lively style over the past ten years.129 Sloane Street, SW1X 9ATT: 020 7730 9097www.maje-paris.frMaria GrachvogelWomenswear designer known forcreating timeless, transformative clothing.A supplier for some of the world’smost glamorous women including

77 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryAngelina Jolie, Emma Thompson, ErinO'Connor and Marie Helvin. For more,see Spotlight on Shops.18 Culford Gardens, Blacklands Terrace,SW3 2ST. T: 020 7245 9331www.mariagrachvogel.comMarniMarni is a cutting-edge Italian fashionlabel of researched and refined eclecticcollections.26 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NET: 020 7245 9520www.marni.comMCMGerman luxury brand specialising inleather goods, handbags, luggage andaccessories.5 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LAT: 020 7235 3331www.mcmworldwide.comMissoniLegendary Italian fashion house famousfor knitwear in bold colours and zig zagprints. This is the only Missoni boutiquein the UK.193 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7823 1910www.missoni.comMiu MiuLuxury brand known for using finematerials and interesting designs.Apart from womenswear, Miu Miu alsooffers shoes, handbags, gloves andother accessories, for which it is widelyrecognised.185 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NWT: 020 7235 6965www.miumiu.comMoncler BoutiqueLuxury leisurewear and outerwear.197 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7235 0857www.moncler.comMylaA beautiful collection of luxury lingerie,sleepwear, swimwear and an exclusiverange of bedroom toys and accessories.74 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 0700www.myla.comN.PealLuxurious cashmere knitwear retailer formore than 75 years.149 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7730 6891www.npeal.com9 LondonSpecialist in beautiful designer maternitywear from around the globe. The storeoffers a huge selection of maternitydenim, evening wear, day wear andnightwear as well as gifts.190 Pavilion Road, SW3 2BFT: 020 7730 1318www.9london.co.ukOfficeFashion retailer for men, ladies andsports shoes.58 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7584 5611www.office.co.ukOliver BrownHunting, country and formal wear forladies and gentlemen. Includes formalmenswear hire service and a largeselection of antique top hats.75 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8DAT: 020 7259 9494www.oliverbrown.org.ukOska WomenSimple and elegant collection ofwomen’s clothing using natural fabrics.Sizes 8-22 in a variety of beautiful mutedcolours.70 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 8989www.oska.de/en/Paul & JoeFlagship London boutique stocking thebest of Paul & Joe’s distinctive, femininedesigns. This boutique brings an originaland fresh touch.134 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AXT: 020 7824 8844www.paulandjoe.com/ukPaule KaChic and elegant fashion and accessoriesin a timeless style, à la AudreyHepburn.161 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BTT: 020 7823 4180www.pauleka.comPickettLeather luggage, wash bags, leatherboundbooks and games, handbagsand gloves plus a rainbow of pashminashawls and semi-precious jewellery.149 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7823 5638www.pickett.co.ukPinkoItalian boutique stocking ladies’ ready-towearfashion and accessories.9 King’s Road, SW3 1QUT: 020 7730 1500www.pinko.itPradaThe Prada Group is one of the world’sleaders in design, production anddistribution of fine leather goods,footwear, clothing and accessories.43-45 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LUT: 020 7235 0008www.prada.comPretty BallerinasMenorcan footwear label specialising inbeautiful ballet pumps and flats. Thestore stocks many styles and all areavailable in a large selection of sizes.7 Pont Street, SW1X 9EHT: 020 7245 0895www.prettyballerinas.comPringle of ScotlandLuxury fashion for men and women withexpertise in knitwear. Stocks the mainline and 1815 collection, as well as anaccessories line.141 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AYT: 020 7881 3060www.pringlescotland.comRicci BurnsWomen’s fashion.25G Lowndes Street, SW1X 9JFT: 020 7823 1555www.ricciburns.comRigby & PellerCompany well known for the quality ofits luxurious lingerie, expert bra fittingservice and for holding the Royal Warrantas corsetieres to HM Queen Elizabeth

78 | SHOPPING | Shopping directorysince 1960. For more, see Spotlight onShops.13 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 0845 076 5545www.rigbyandpeller.comRoberto CavalliThe Italian fashion designer of modernand luxury clothing. This Sloane Streetboutique stocks couture for men andwomen.20-22 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QPT: 020 7823 1879www.robertocavalli.comRoger VivierLondon showroom of the French shoedesigner credited with the invention ofthe stiletto heel.188 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QRT: 020 7245 8270www.rogervivier.comRussell and BromleyShoes for ladies, men and children, aswell as handbags and men’s belts.64 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7584 5445www.russellandbromley.co.ukSandroLuxury French boutique offering thefinest in ready-to-wear clothing forwomen, shoes and accessories.133 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9AXT: 020 7259 9539www.sandro-paris.comSarah PaciniA unique blend of knitwear and prêt-àporter.Simple, scintillating colours resultin an ultra-feminine collection.53 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7259 9936www.sarahpacini.comSelina BlowShowcase for Selina's signature tailoringand opulent fabrics. In addition to herwomenswear, the store also carries hermenswear and childrenswear lines, andshoes from Meher Kakalia. For more, seeSpotlight on Shops.1 Ellis Street, SW1X 9ALT: 020 7730 2077www.selinablow.comSergio RossiLuxury Italian accessories brand famedfor feminine, modern and sexy shoesmade expertly with quality materials anda superior fit. Beautiful bags are madewith luxurious fabrics for day and night.207a Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7811 5950www.sergiorossi.comShanghai TangWhere Chinese culture and traditionmeet 21st-century design, sophisticationand functionality. Imperial tailoring,clothing for women, men and children,and home furnishings.6A/B Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7235 8778www.shanghaitang.comShi CashmereCashmere made in Scotland in 150colours. Designs are also available inother sumptuous fabrics, includingsuede, silk, linen and flannel.30 Lowndes Street, SW1X 9HXT: 020 7235 3829www.shicashmere.comTed BakerDesigner label encompassing menswear,formal wear, womenswear, shoes andfragrances.19 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7881 0850www.tedbaker.comThomas PinkBeautiful hand-finished shirts for menand women. Only natural cotton fabricsare used, woven into classic and moreunusual designs.162B Sloane Street, SW1X 9BST: 020 7245 0202www.thomaspink.comTM LewinOne of the UK’s leading makers of fineshirts since 1898. Suits, ladieswear andaccessories also available.11 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 020 7881 0957www.tmlewin.co.ukTod’sItalian shoes, accessories and handbagsfor men and women.35-36 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LPT: 020 7235 1321www.tods.comTrilogyBoutique shop offering a unique mix ofcontemporary and stylish premiumdenim brands, including Paige, Citizens,WolfordHudson, Goldsign and J Brand.33 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 6515www.trilogystores.co.ukValentinoLuxury clothes and accessories forwomen from the world-famous Italianfashion house.174 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QGT: 020 7235 5855www.valentino.comVersaceLuxury clothing, accessories andfragrances from the international fashionhouse.183-184 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QPT: 020 7259 5700www.versace.comVentiloFrench fashion specialist in ladieswearand menswear.148 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7824 8884www.ventilo.frWalter SteigerHandmade shoes for ladies and men,and accessories of the highest quality.48 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LUT: 020 7245 8480www.walter-steiger.comWhistlesA leading-edge womenswear fashionbrand, recently reinvented and known forits coats, dresses and knitwear.31 King’s Road, SW3 4RPT: 020 7730 2006www.whistles.co.ukWolfordLuxury manufacturers of ready-to-wear,bodywear, lingerie and swimwear.17 King’s Road, SW3 4RP. T: 020 7730 9152www.wolford.com

79 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryYves Saint LaurentClothes and accessories for men andladies.171-172 Sloane Street, SW1X9NR. T: 020 7235 6706www.ysl.comZadig & VoltaireParisian brand comprisingwomenswear, menswear,childrenswear and accessories.Key pieces includeessential cashmeresweaters, aged and customisedjeans, Tunisian finecotton T-shirts, lace-edgedsilk camisoles and easyaccessories in the softestleather.140 Sloane Street, SW1X9AY. T: 020 7730 1880www.zadig-et-voltaire.comZaglianiFounded in 1947, Zagliani is renownedfor timeless and luxurious handbags andaccessories created with exclusivelytreatedleathers and exotic skins.8 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7235 4124www.zagliani.itZaraWomenswear, menswear, childrenswearand a Zara Home section from theinternational high-street brand.65 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7901 8700www.zara.comKidsZaglianiBaby DiorChristian Dior presents its childrenswearcollection from newborn to 12 years.6 Harriet Street, SW1X 9JWT: 020 7823 2039www.dior.comBonpointCreative, elegant and modern, Bonpointis the luxury French fashion house forchildren and young adults.15 Sloane Street, SW1X 9NBT: 020 7235 1441www.bonpoint.comCaramel Baby & ChildThis stylish luxury childrenswear storeoffers the perfect selection of clothing,accessories and a hair salon for children.A cool, calm signature style gives shoppersa traditional collection with a twist.Sizes from three months to 12 years.259 Pavilion Road, SW1X 0BPT: 020 7730 2564www.caramel-shop.co.ukKidspaceLuxury children’s boutique on SloaneStreet selling exclusive apparel fromnewborn to 14 years.3 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LAT: 020 7235 3730www.kidspace.itThe Little White CompanyLuxurious products for home, womenand children.4 Symons Street, SW3 2TJT: 020 8166 0199www.thewhitecompany.com/the-littlewhite-companyBonpointMarie-ChantalContemporary clothes and accessoriesfor boys and girls from newborn to12 years. Everything from everydayessentials to gorgeous partywear.133a Sloane Street, SW1X 9AXT: 020 7730 8662www.mariechantal.comNeck & NeckA unique brand specialising in children’sclothing and accessories, ranging fromnewborn to 14 years.34 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7881 0802www.neckandneck.comOvaleUnique French concept store whichoffers a beautiful collection of babyclothes, and also original gifts andobjects for loved ones.35b Sloane Street, SW1X 9LPT: 020 7235 5235www.ovale.comRachel RileyTraditional clothing for ladies, childrenand babies. Mail-order available.14 Pont Street, SW1X 9ENT: 020 7259 5969www.rachelriley.comTrottersExclusive childrenswear (0-10 years) plusthe best in children’s shoes, books, toys,gifts and accessories. Hairdressing availableby appointment. Much loved byparents and children.34 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7259 9620www.trotters.co.uk

80 | SHOPPING | Shopping directoryJewelleryAnnoushkaFine jewellery collection created byAnnoushka Ducas, which is fastbecoming renowned for its exquisitedesign and unique 18-carat gold pieces.The boutique showcases her collectionsand those of select guest designers.41 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2TBT: 020 7881 5828www.annoushka.comArijeSpecialists in watches and jewellery.165 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QBT: 020 7752 0246www.arije.comAvakianExclusive and glamorous jewellerymade by the finest craftsmanship,incorporating the most precious and elegantgemstones.Jumeirah Carlton Tower Hotel,2 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PYT: 020 7235 1323www.avakian.comBoodlesThe ultimate shopping experience forcontemporary and unique British finejewellery. Designed, created and familyownedin the UK for more than 200years. This shop is closed for refurbishmentin the early part of 2012.1 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LAT: 020 7235 011www.boodles.comBrilliantDesign-led and quality-focused piecesset by hand by master craftsmen usingthe finest quality diamond simulants.41 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7259 9555www.bybrilliant.comBulgariContemporary Italian jeweller, specialisingin jewellery, watches and accessories.177-178 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QLT: 020 7838 9411www.bulgari.comCartierBy combining tradition with innovation,Cartier has stayed at the forefront ofjewellery and watch making, creatingobjects of the highest design andcontemporary elegance.143-144 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AYT: 020 7312 6930www.cartier.comCassandra GoadDesigner of fine jewellery expressing“inventive contemporary style andclassical confidence”. An in-house workshopensures that seasonal collectionsand private commissions are of exceptionalcraftsmanship. For more, seeSpotlight on Shops.147 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7730 2202www.cassandragoad.comDodoJewellery collection created by the distinguishedItalian jewellery house ofPomellato in 1995. A playful family ofFrey Willeanimal charms, each with its own tendermessage of friendship or love, to begifted and collected.31 Sloane Square, SW1W 8AGT: 020 7259 1414www.dodo.itEscadaReady-to-wear and accessories, plussunglasses and jewellery.194-195 Sloane Street, SW1X 9QXT: 020 7245 9800www.escada.comFaraone MennellaFrom 'classic' jewels to wear every dayto the most exceptional one-of-a kindcouture pieces, Faraone Mennella knowshow to surprise and make a statement.28 Lowndes Street, SW1X 9HXT: 020 7235 1183www.faraonemennella.comCartierFrey WilleEnamel jewellery and accessoriesinspired by famous artistic and historicalepochs and emotions, which wearers willwant to experience every day.4a Sloane Street, SW1X 9LAT: 020 7235 1388www.frey-wille.comGilda’s TrystExciting British accessories label withbold, fashion-forward gemstone jewelleryand evening bags. The limited editiondesigns are inspired by old-worldglamour and strong feminine muses.71 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7730 8200www.gildastryst.comGraffOnly the finest diamonds are selected tobe created into a Graff jewel, says thecompany. Clients can acquire exquisitejewellery to be treasured and passed onfrom generation to generation.11 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LET: 020 7201 4120www.graffdiamonds.comKiki McDonoughJeweller Kiki McDonough designs finejewellery featuring her trademark useof vibrant semi-precious stones withdiamonds in 18-carat gold. Bold, contemporaryyet extremely elegant, Kiki’spieces are modern classics. Now availableonline.12 Symons Street, SW3 2TJT: 020 7730 3323www.kiki.co.ukLara BohincDesigner of innovative jewellery, accessories,handbags, shoes and scarvesthat are refined and elegant. Lara addsanother dimension to jewellery, creatingpieces that are architecturally influencedand glamorously feminine.

81 | SHOPPING | Shopping directory149F Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7730 8194www.larabohinc.comLinks of LondonInnovative and original luxury jewellery,watches and accessories and creators ofthe official jewellery collection for London2012.16 Sloane Square, SW1W 8ERT: 020 7730 3133www.linksoflondon.comMontblancInternational luxury lifestyle brand offeringexquisite female jewellery, male accessories,watches, leather goods and writinginstruments.151 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BXT: 020 7730 7681www.montblanc.comTateossianSpecialist in men’s cufflinks and accessoriesplus contemporary ladies’ jewellery.The style is elegant and distinctive,using sterling silver with semi-preciousstones, fibre-optic glass and leather.15 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7259 0777www.tateossian.co.ukTiffany & Co.Internationally-renowned jewellerproviding classic designs for life’smemorable occasions. A wide range ofengagement rings, statement, fine andfashion jewellery, sterling silver gifts andaccessories.145 Sloane Street, SW1X 9AYT: 020 7409 2790www.tiffany.co.ukBooksBookHausA beautiful showroom for HausPublishing’s stylishly-produced biographies,history, travel writing, fiction andprize-winning modern Arabic literature.70 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9AHT: 020 7838 9055www.hauspublishing.comwww.arabiabooks.co.ukJohn SandoeA leading independent bookshop withmore than 25,000 books. Specialists inmodern fiction, biography, history, poetry,art and architecture.10 Blacklands Terrace, SW3 2SRT: 020 7589 9473www.johnsandoe.comPotterton Books LondonIndependent bookshop specialising innew and out-of-print titles on the arts,design and lifestyle.93 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8DAT: 020 7730 4235www.pottertonbookslondon.co.ukTaschenBookstore selling an eclectic variety ofbooks from Taschen, unique internationalpublishers of art, anthropology andaphrodesia.12 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LYT: 020 7881 0795www.taschen.comHealth and beautyA MooreModern chemist and health-food shopoffering excellent customer service.25E Lowndes Street, SW1X 9JFT: 020 7235 5887Andrews PharmacyThis community pharmacy is aptlyreferred to by its catchphrase: “Wheresmall is great.” Despite its tiny size, itboasts an amazing variety of products.149B Sloane Street, SW1X 9BZT: 020 7730 1018www.andrews-pharmacy.co.ukBeauty at 25aAn established and prestigious beautysalon offering a high standard of qualitytreatments by knowledgeable and friendlytherapists.25A Lowndes Street, SW1X 9JFT: 020 7235 3154The Body ShopNatural body, hair and make-up products.Men’s grooming products alsoavailable.54 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7584 0163www.thebodyshop.co.ukBootsHealth and beauty products includingcosmetics, toiletries, medicines, vitaminsand pharmacy. Other services includephoto processing and lunchtime foodand drink.60 King’s Road, SW3 4UDT: 020 7589 3234www.boots.comPotterton BooksCadogan ClinicDiscreet and exclusive day clinic offeringmedical and cosmetic treatments.120 Sloane Street, SW1X 9BWT: 020 7901 8500

82 | USEFUL INFORMATION |Need to knowUsefulinformationBarclays Cycle Hire,also known as ‘Boris bikes’From getting money to getting around,here is some information that couldcome in handy when you’re in andaround ChelseaATMs and banksThere are cash machines at SloaneSquare (where there is also anInternational Currency Exchange), alongKing’s Road, Fulham Road, BromptonRoad and at Knightsbridge. There arealso free ATMs on Sydney Street andSloane Avenue.Public toiletsThe only public lavatory in Chelsea isthe Autoloo outside Sloane SquareUnderground Station, which costs 20pto use. There is another Autoloo locatedat South Kensington Undergroundstation.Phone numbersEmergency ServicesFor police, fire or ambulance services,dial 999 or 112.You can also register your mobilephone for the 999 text messagingservice for the hard of hearing:emergencysms.org.uk.Chelsea Police Station2 Lucan Place, SW3 3PB.T: 020 7589 1212Operator assistanceDial 100Directory enquiriesThere are a variety of different directoryenquiry services that begin with 118 asstandard. There is a charge for callingthese numbers. The British Telecomdirectory enquiries number is 118 500.International operatorassistanceDial 155International directoryenquiriesDial 152TransportA helpful tool for planning your journeysis Transport for London’s JourneyPlanner, which can be found at:journeyplanner.tfl.gov.uk. It allows you toenter the places you are travelling from

83 | USEFUL INFORMATION | Transportand to, with many preference options,and tells you the best route and howlong it will take – it will even give you liveupdates telling you whether there are anydelays.Here’s a bit of information to get youup to speed with transport in Chelsea.London Underground TubestationsSloane SquareCircle and District lines.KnightsbridgePiccadilly line.South KensingtonCircle, District and Piccadilly lines.Fulham BroadwayDistrict line.CyclingBarclays Cycle HireAffectionately known to Londoners as‘Boris bikes’ due to the Mayor ofLondon’s high-profile endorsement of thescheme, these blue bicycles can be seencruising around central London.You can hire either on a membership(UK residents only) or casual basis. Youhave to pay an access fee (£1 for 24hours) and then a rate depending onhow long you use the bike (up to 30minutes is free, up to one hour is £1, upto one and a half hours is £4 and so on).Chelsea straddles the south-westernedge of the 17 sq m coverage zone, sowhile it has more than ten docking stations,they are all based to the north-eastof the area. It is worth noting that helmetsand other such protective gear arenot provided.For more information on the scheme,see the website: www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/14808.aspx.TaxisBlack cabs can be hailed when theirorange light is lit (your best bet is tohead to the nearest main road), pickedup from a taxi rank (there is one atSloane Square, on the central island), orbooked in advance.A cheaper option is a minicab, but foryour own safety, make sure they arefrom a licensed company. Minicabs mustbe booked or ordered in advance (onlyblack cabs are allowed to pick up passengerson the street) and if you’re lookingfor a good deal it is often worth callingmore than one company for a quote.Make sure the minicab driver can confirmyour name and destination beforeyou get into the car to ensure it is theone you have booked, and check thedriver’s photo ID.Black cabsOne-Number Taxi: 0871 871 8710Call-A-Cab: 020 8901 4444www.callacab.comComputer Cab: 020 7908 0207www.comcablondon.comMinicabsAddison Lee (London-wide minicabservice)T: 0844 800 6677Sloane Cars65 Wiltshire Close, Draycott Avenue,SW3 2NTT: 020 7854 1189Hurlingham Cars Ltd18 Lillie Road, London, SW6 1TST: 020 7381 1111For more licensed minicab numbers, usethe ‘Findaride’ service on the Transportfor London website which can be foundhere:www.tfl.gov.uk/tfl/gettingaround/findaride/default.aspx.BusesLots of buses travel through Chelsea. To get the best picture of busroutes, go to the interactive bus map on the Transport for London website:www.tfl.gov.uk/tfl/gettingaround/maps/buses. For now, here is a listof buses that go through Chelsea and the streets they stop on:Bus No.11N11*14**19N19*22N22*49170211319345**360414Stops on…Lower Sloane St/SloaneSquare/King’s Rd.Lower Sloane St/SloaneSquare/King’s Rd.Fulham RdSloane St/SloaneSquare/King’s Rd/Beaufort St.Sloane St/SloaneSquare/King’s Rd/Beaufort St.Sloane St/SloaneSquare/King’s Rd.Sloane St/SloaneSquare/King’s Rd.Sydney St/King’sRd/Beaufort St.Royal HospitalRd/Chelsea EmbankmentChelsea BridgeRd/Sloane Square/King’sRd/Sydney St./FulhamRd.Sloane Square/King’sRd/Beaufort St.Fulham Rd/Beaufort St.Sloane Ave/SloaneSquare/Lower Sloane St.Fulham Rd.* Night bus.** Runs day and night.Interesting stopsWest: Fulham Town Hall. East: Victoria, Westminster,Trafalgar Square, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Liverpool StreetStation.West: Ealing Broadway, Chiswick, Hammersmith, FulhamBroadway. East: Victoria, Westminster, Trafalgar Square,St. Paul’s Cathedral, Liverpool Street Station.North: Warren Street, Tottenham Court Rd., PiccadillyCircus. South: Chelsea Football Club, Fulham Broadway,Putney Heath.North: Highbury, Islington, Piccadilly Circus. South:Battersea.North: Highbury, Islington, Piccadilly Circus. South:Battersea, Clapham Junction.West: Putney. East: Hyde Park, Piccadilly Circus.West: Twickenham, Richmond, Barnes, Putney. East:Hyde Park, Piccadilly Circus.North: Shepherds Bush. South: Battersea, ClaphamJunction.North: Victoria. South: Battersea, Clapham Junction,Wandsworth Town, Putney Heath.West: Hammersmith, Fulham Broadway, Chelsea FootballClub. East: Victoria, Westminster, Waterloo.South: Battersea, Clapham Junction, WandsworthCommon, Streatham.North: Natural History Museum. South: Battersea,Clapham Common, Brixton, Peckham.North: Natural History Museum. South: Pimlico, Vauxhall,Imperial War Museum, Elephant & Castle.North: Warwick Avenue, St. John’s Wood. South: ChelseaFootball Club, Fulham Broadway, Putney.

84 | USEFUL INFORMATION | MapContains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2012