46 | INSIDER | Open spaces<strong>Chelsea</strong> Physic Garden,Royal Hospital RoadWalk past Wren’s glorious Royal Hospital(the finest brick building in London?)towards the river, past Gordon Ramsay’sflagship restaurant and arrive at anunpretentious brick wall. Hiding behindthat long, low wall is the ultimate secretgarden – the <strong>Chelsea</strong> Physic Garden.It has been there since 1673, when theriver was its southern boundary andships moored there with plants discoveredfrom all around the world.Explore and enjoy the greatest varietyof trees and rare plants in London: themagical miniature world of the Victorianfernery, a special land of natural medicineand perfumed flowers. Where better,ever, anywhere, to take tea and cake ona summer’s afternoon?Albert BridgeI’m so glad the bridge is back in actionand reborn out of its scaffold shroud ofthe past two years. I missed it like an oldfriend.My favourite gateway into <strong>Chelsea</strong> (Igrew up south of the river), it is alwaysThe <strong>Insider</strong>’s Guideto open spacesBy Paul Davis,local architectand lover ofLondon past andpresent. Onceupon a timehe raced carsbut now, forrelaxation, hegardens andplants treesthe prettiest of London bridges. At night itsparkles in the Thames, like the thresholdinto a magic kingdom.Go and stand on it at dawn, see the sunrise over Battersea Park and the grand oldPower Station, the seabirds wading at lowtide, stillness and space in the middle ofLondon. At sunset, sometimes the waterseems to catch fire, all the reds of a paintbox colouring in the water around thehouseboats. Even the chimneys of LotsRoad Power Station appear romantic inthe evening light. No wonder Turner andWhistler loved to paint this panorama,available to us all.<strong>Chelsea</strong> Arts Club,Old Church StreetAnother treat only found in <strong>Chelsea</strong>.Beyond the snooker table, the piano, therandom bucket leather chairs in the bigbow window, you will find the garden.The crumpled flagstones characterfullyshabby, the rose arbour glorious in whiteblooming all summer long. Explore thegarden’s corners, the romantic secretnook hidden behind the statue of Diana.Reinvented (in part) only recently, thequirky thatched arcade under the cleverlycropped cupressus trees, a columnarcolonnade, provides shelter from the rainwhile supping wine, smoking cigars anddebating the vagaries of artistic directions.Ranelagh Gardens,Royal Hospital <strong>Chelsea</strong>,Royal Hospital RoadThis shady retreat is a place of absurdextremes. In June, it is one of the mostdensely populated places during the<strong>Chelsea</strong> Flower Show. That is a wonderfulevent and part of what makes<strong>Chelsea</strong> world-class. But for 11 monthsof the year, it is almost forgotten.Walk through the London Gate of theRoyal Hospital, past Light Horse Courtand into Ranelagh Gardens and don’t besurprised if you find yourself in your ownprivate park, alone. The idea I most love,as you walk towards the river in leafysolitude, is that 270 years ago this wasthe site of London’s most fashionablepleasure ground.Designed by William Jones and paintedby Canaletto, the Rotunda, a magnificent120ft diameter domed pavilion, was partof the riverside setting with Wren’smasterpiece.This is where the ‘masquerade’ wasintroduced to the English public, whenoysters were common fare, whereprinces and dukes mingled with peoplefrom all walks of life.Mozart played there as a nine-year-oldwhile living in Ebury Street just aroundthe corner. Nell Gwyn was there andcourtship was in the air.The entrance fee was two shillings andsixpence then – now it is free.<strong>Chelsea</strong> GreenThe heart of an urban village in the middleof a world city. A tiny triangle of openspace, dissected by a path lined withbenches and adorned with two cherrytrees (best at springtime in pink blossom).Most remarkable is the atmosphereand character created by useful, everydayand still elegant (it is <strong>Chelsea</strong>, afterall) shops. A real fishmonger, open-frontedwith traditional grey Carrara marble slabs;the pie (Man) shop; a local butcher; Finn’sfine food delicatessen; Jane Asher’s cakeshop and an excellent wine merchant.Especially essential, there is a goodpharmacy, newsagent, dry cleaner andshoe repairs, a picture framer and, mostimportantly (this little boy never grew up),a wonderful toy shop. The few clothesboutiques here are not to be found onevery high street or miserable mall.Tom Aikens and others provide varietyin restaurants and not a Starbucks insight – hooray!
47 | INSIDER | Places for childrenThe <strong>Insider</strong>’s Guideto places forchildrenWhen I’m not working or undertakingcharity work, one of my top <strong>Chelsea</strong>hangouts is KX, a private members’ gymand spa. My favourite restaurants in thearea are Ilia (96 Draycott Avenue) for itsincredible selection of antipasti, EightOver Eight (392 King’s Road) for its livelybar and pan-Asian menu (the chilli saltsquid and duck salad are two of myfavourite dishes anywhere) and my friendRichard Caring’s place Daphne’s (112Draycott Avenue) for its seasonal Italianfood and atmosphere.Igloo, 227 King’s RoadAs a mother to two little girls nearing theage of three, I find myself in children’sshops all the time and <strong>Chelsea</strong> has areally good range of stores for everythingthe little ones need. Igloo on the King’sRoad is fantastic for great shoes andboots and it’s also a brilliant place to buygifts for all my friends’ kids. The range ofclothes is great as they stock two of myfavourites – Petit Bateau and I LoveGorgeous. The staff are all super-helpfuland friendly, which always makesshopping with little ones all the moreBy Jenny Halpern Prince,who has lived in <strong>Chelsea</strong> andhad her office on the King’sRoad for more than 15 years.She started Halpern, one ofLondon’s leading consumer PRagencies, in her kitchen and ithas grown into an agency thatlooks after some of the world’sleading brands. Jenny sits onthe boards of Great OrmondStreet Hospital Children’sCharity, Tate, Women’s Aid andThe Legacy List. She is alsothe governor of the LondonAcademy and a mentor forcreative start-upsThe Little WhiteCompanypleasant. At the moment my two arebudding ballerinas and Igloo has abeautiful range of tutus by Angel’s Face.Trotters, 34 King’s RoadTrotters, also on the King’s Road, hasnailed what kids’ shops should be. Whileparents stock up on clothes and more,the children can have their hair cut andare kept entertained seated in front ofa giant aquarium. It’s a good place tostock up on books as well as hair clipsand other accessories too, like hats,scarves and gloves.The Little White Company,4 Symons StreetThe Little White Company is perfect forbedding and the basics, and everythingis so fresh-looking. My two would neverhave been able to sleep as little oneswithout their Little White Company growbags and even now still love the pyjamasfrom there.Natural History Museum,Cromwell RoadAway from the shops, when the kids andI are after some entertainment, my firstport of call is the Natural HistoryMuseum. I am addicted to this place –probably even more so than my children– due to my fascination with animals.Nothing beats walking round theimpressive building and ending up inthe room with the blue whale replica in it.It amazes me every time.Science Museum,Exhibition RoadThe Science Museum is also a must-seeas there are endless installations andNatural History Museum Wildlife Gardendisplays for the kids to interact with. Likeme and the Natural History Museum, thekids never get bored of the ScienceMuseum and spend days chatting abouteverything they have seen there eachtime we go.Kensington GardensI love to get out the house and into thefresh air with the girls and KensingtonGardens is hands-down the best park incentral London for me, especially forskating/scooting, feeding swans andducks and the unique pirate ship andplayground. Many a happy day has beenspent here with the children and my dog.I always bump into other friends whilestrolling around, especially when the sunis out. Regardless of whether it’s flip-flopor welly boots weather, it’s hard to dragthe children away.