34 | THINGS TO DO | Art galleriesRecent exhibitions include The EmpireStrikes Back: Indian Art Today, AbstractAmerica: New Painting and Sculpture,and The Shape of Things to Come:New Sculpture, each reportedly drawingaround 4,000 visitors a day. Entry to allshows is free of charge.The Gallery Mess (see Restaurants) isworth checking out, and the gift shop isgreat for interesting presents for artytypes. Rooms at the gallery can be hiredfor events.Daily 10am-6pm, last entry at 5.30pm.Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road,SW3 4RY. T: 020 7811 3080www.saatchi-gallery.co.ukStephanie Hoppen GalleryStephanie Hoppen – mother to famousgallery owner Michael and interiordesigner Kelly – has been working at 17Walton Street since 1981. She believesin a practical approach to art, cuttingaway jargon and theory, where the oneconsideration for buyers should bewhether there is ‘love at first sight’. Thegallery displays works from British andinternational contemporary artists andphotographers.Tuesday to Friday 10am-6pm,Saturday 12pm-5pm, Monday byappointment.17 Walton Street, SW3 2HXT: 020 7589 3678www.stephaniehoppen.comNocturne in Blackand Gold – theFalling RocketAmerican-born artist James AbbottMcNeill Whistler lived at many placesin <strong>Chelsea</strong> (see Streets and Sights)and his painting Nocturnein Black and Gold – the FallingRocket, which depicts fireworks atCremorne Gardens over BatterseaBridge, resulted in a costly libel caseagainst the critic John Ruskin in 1877.Whistler had exhibited the paintingat the Grosvenor Gallery and Ruskinhad called him a ‘coxcomb’ for asking‘two hundress guineas for flinging apot of paint in the public’s face’.Whistler sued himfor libel, saying it was an ‘artisticarrangement’ rather than a view of thegardens, and that he didn’t ask twohundred guineas for the timeit took to paint, rather ‘for the knowledgeI have gained in the work of alifetime’.Whistler won the case, but was onlyawarded a farthing in damages andhad to pay his own costs,forcing him to sell his new housein Tite Street, designed for him byE W Godwin, and bankrupting him.Time travelFrom the Carlyle’s House to <strong>Chelsea</strong> FC,these museums will give you an insightinto the past and the presentNational Army MuseumThe National Army Museum is a bitdifferent to most other museums – ituses the objects in its collection as away to link the past and present, ratherthan to examine history as a separateentity. It aims to tell the story of theBritish Army – and the Indian Army, upuntil 1947 – as a whole, right up to thepresent day. The online exhibition aboutthe Army in Helmand, Afghanistan, andits permanent exhibition in the museum,Conflicts of Interest, 1969-present,show its dedication to covering currentconflicts as well as historic ones. Itreceives grant aid from the Ministryof Defence and it pays ground rent ofprecisely one guinea a year to its landlord,the Royal Hospital.The collections look at both the Army’srole in history around the world and thepersonal experiences of servicemenand women. The exhibitions, particularlyon modern or current conflicts, give anintimate portrayal of what it is like toserve in the military, and doesn’t shyaway from the psychological impact.It links into popular culture, too – forexample, War Horse: Fact & Fictionexplores Michael Morpurgo’s novel.The new Kids’ Zone soft-play area isa great addition, helping young childrento learn in a fun way, with the Early YearsFoundation Stages at its heart. There arealso plenty of family events. The educationdepartment is excellent.In fact, the museum is so popular thatan expansion is planned, with a glassatrium, a roof terrace, a restaurant, newNationalArmyMuseumeducation facilities and an overhaul ofsome of the galleries in the pipeline.An interesting series of celebrityspeakers runs at the museum, fromauthors to anthropologists and first-handaccounts from soldiers, along withlunchtime lectures. There’s sometimes aticket fee for talks, but most of themuseum’s events are free.Open daily 10am-5.30pm.Free admission.Royal Hospital Road,SW3 4HTT: 020 7730 0717www.nam.ac.uk<strong>Chelsea</strong> FC<strong>Chelsea</strong> FootballClub’s museum atStamford Bridge tellsthe story of the club fromits beginnings in 1905 to itsglobal reach today. It features memorabilia,interactive experiences including theadidas Shooting Gallery – which teachesvisitors how to shoot the perfect goal –and a showcase of shirts from some ofthe team’s greatest players. The museumworks in conjuction with an updatedstadium tour route and shop.
35 | THINGS TO DO | MuseumsA <strong>Chelsea</strong>Pensionerdressed in thefamous uniformOpen 10.30am-5pm (last entry 4pm) –on match days the opening hours will varydepending on kick-off time. Open until6pm (last entry 5pm) in July and August.Museum only prices: Adult (16+ years)£10, child (five-15 years, under fives freeof charge) £8, concession (senior citizenand students with valid ID) £9, familyticket (two adults and two children) £32.Stamford Bridge, Fulham Road,SW6 1HS. T: 0871 984 1955 (generalenquiries), 0871 984 1905 (tickets)www.chelseafc.comCarlyle’s HouseThe house of Scottish satirical writerThomas Carlyle and his wife Jane, preservedsince 1895. They were a celebrityRoyal Hospital <strong>Chelsea</strong>(For more about the Royal Hospital <strong>Chelsea</strong>, see Streetsand Sights)The Royal Hospital, home of the the <strong>Chelsea</strong> Pensioner, has asmall museum in the grounds. It originally opened in 1866 andits collection is mostly made up of objects left by former In-Pensioners. There are artefacts associated with the Duke ofWellington, a diorama of the Royal Hospital in 1742, a reconstructionof a typical berth in the Long Wards (which are notopen to the public) and a collection of more than 2,100 medals,among other items. Visitors can also see the Parade Chair,which was presented to Queen Elizabeth II by the RoyalHospital, and the Sovereign’s Mace, which the Queen presentedto the hospital in 2002. You can even book a guided tourwith a <strong>Chelsea</strong> Pensioner (£65 per tour, which contributesdirectly to the Royal Hospital’s funds to benefit the welfare ofthe <strong>Chelsea</strong> Pensioners. Tours begin 10am and 1.30pm,Monday-Friday).The Museum and Souvenir Shop are open to the publicMonday-Friday, 10am-5pm, excluding bank holidays and officialRoyal Hospital events, such as Founder’s Day. Individuals andgroups of up to 10 people can visit the Royal Hospital <strong>Chelsea</strong>for free (larger groups must book a tour on the number below).Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4SR. T: 020 7881 5200 (switchboard),020 7881 5298 (to book a tour).www.chelsea-pensioners.co.ukcouple in the Victorian literary world, andThomas influenced other famous authorsof the time, including Charles Dickensand John Ruskin. Jane was a wellknownletter-writer in her own right.The house is kept as it was in the 1850s,when Robert Tait painted a portrait ofthe couple in their home. It’s a chance topeek into the past of this very creativepart of <strong>Chelsea</strong>.Open Wednesday-Sunday and bankholiday Mondays, 11pm-5pm, lastadmission 30 minutes before closing.Admission: Adult £5.10, child £2.60,family £12.80.24 Cheyne Row, SW3 5HLT: 020 7352 7087www.nationaltrust.org.uk/carlyleshouseStar qualityWith two luxury cinemas, two worldclasstheatres and more movie cameosthan Alfred Hitchcock, Sloane Squareand the King's Road are unmissabledestinations for fans of stage and screen<strong>Chelsea</strong> TheatreLaunched in 1953, <strong>Chelsea</strong> Theatrecommissions and presents new workfrom leading international companies andartists, such as Goat Island, Lone Twin,Ron Athey, Annie Sprinkle, PacittiCompany, Julia Bardsley, DriesVerhoeven and Kazuko Hohki. Recentcollaborations have involved exchangeswith theatres in Vienna, Moscow, Rio deJaneiro and New York.Under artistic director FrancisAlexander, the focus since 2004 hasbeen on the production and presentationof live art, creating work where artistscross between visual, time-based andperformance practice. The theatre hasgained support from organisationsincluding Arts Council England, theBritish Council and the Live ArtDevelopment Agency.World’s End Place, King’s Road, SW100DR. T: 020 7352 1967www.chelseatheatre.org.ukCineworld <strong>Chelsea</strong>Cineworld <strong>Chelsea</strong> is a four-screencinema showing the latest blockbustersand independent films. The building isone of the oldest of Cineworld’s sites,and first opened as a cine-variety venuein 1910, and has continued to screenfilms right up until the present day.Cineworld <strong>Chelsea</strong> also has a programmeof alternative content, includinglive feeds of the Met Opera, seasonalshowings such as The Rocky HorrorPicture Show and golden oldiefavourites.Ticket prices: Adult £10.50 after 5pmMonday-Friday and all day Saturday andSunday, £8 before 5pm Monday-Friday,child (14 and under) £6.60, senior/student£7, family £29 after 5pm Monday-Friday and all day Saturday and Sunday,£24.50 before 5pm Monday-Friday.Weekend prices apply to bank holidays.There is an additional cost for 3D films(£2.30 for adults, £1.50 forchild/senior/student/unlimited, £5.60 forfamily ticket, 3D glasses 80p per pair).On-street parking only.279 King’s Road, SW3 5EWT: 0871 200 2000www.cineworld.co.uk/cinemas/10Curzon <strong>Chelsea</strong>A 700-seat luxury cinema, Curzon<strong>Chelsea</strong> shows both big releases andsmaller arty, independent and foreignlanguage films. It also shows live screeningsof opera and theatre from the NewYork Metropolitan Opera and London’sNational Theatre, among others.It’s a location full of cinematic history,built on the original site of film pioneerWilliam Friese-Greene’s studios andlaboratory. He patented a moving imageCurzon <strong>Chelsea</strong>