22 | INSIDER | Buildings & architectureThe <strong>Insider</strong>’s Guideto buildings andarchitectureBy Hugh Seaborn, chiefexecutive of <strong>Cadogan</strong>, whichrepresents extensive <strong>Cadogan</strong>family land holdingsin <strong>Chelsea</strong>. These date back to1712, when Sir Hans Sloanepurchased the Manor of<strong>Chelsea</strong> and Charles, 2nd Baron<strong>Cadogan</strong>, subsequently marriedhis daughter Elizabeth Sloanein 1717Duke ofYork SquarePeter Jones, Sloane SquareI would start at the top of Peter Jones,enjoying a coffee while drinking in theview from its picture windows. On theway in, wonder at the statement madeby the building, built in the 1930s onan impressive scale. Look at its sizecompared to everything around it.The confidence it conveys is reflectedin the pioneering use of curtain walling.This is where the John Lewis workers’cooperative began.<strong>Cadogan</strong> Hall, 5 Sloane TerraceA two-minute walk away in SloaneTerrace is the hidden gem of <strong>Cadogan</strong>Hall. This concert hall, open to the public,was converted with great sensitivity froma Church of Christ, Scientist. It wasoriginally built by Robert Chisholm intwo sections, and was finished in 1907.Above all, look at the windows,which were designed by Baron vonRosenkrantz with beautiful, rich colours.Holy Trinity Church,Sloane StreetOn the way back, walking south on<strong>Cadogan</strong> HallSloane Street, you will pass theHoly Trinity Church designed by JohnSedding, where you can marvel at thepeace just off this busy shopping street,and again drink in the stained glasswindows with the light behind them.Duke of York Square,King’s RoadFrom here it is less than five minutes tothe Duke of York Square, opposite PeterJones. There is much to see, but I wouldstart with the Saatchi Gallery, which wasoriginally a home for soldiers’ childrenbuilt in the first years of the 19th centuryby John Sanders. The connection withchildren continues today as you willfrequently see children from Hill HouseSchool on the playing fields in front ofthe gallery. The buildings were so wellconverted by Paul Davis and Partnersthat it feels as though it was designedfor its present use.Royal Hospital <strong>Chelsea</strong>,Royal Hospital RoadNo visit to <strong>Chelsea</strong> for someoneinterested in buildings is complete untilyou have enjoyed the Royal Hospital,designed by Christopher Wren in thelate 17th century. It is extraordinarythat these wonderful buildings are stillused for the same purpose they weredesigned for, more than 300 years ago.The <strong>Chelsea</strong> Pensioners add to thedignity and elegance in their smart,scarlet uniforms.<strong>Cadogan</strong> SquareFinally, if you have the energy left,I would suggest taking a walk around<strong>Cadogan</strong> Square and look at the varietyof gables. Imagine the confidence of theVictorians building these mansions fortheir successful merchants in place ofthe small Georgian houses that hadbeen there for 100 years previously.Number 52 on the west side of thesquare may particularly catch your eye.It was designed in 1885 by Sir ErnestGeorge and is rich in the styles of theFlemish and German Renaissance. It isa private house, so you cannot go in, butthe external details alone justify the visit.
23 | STREETS & SIGHTS |Hans TownThe area of <strong>Chelsea</strong> that was known asHans Town has been frequented by manyremarkable characters, including authorsJane Austen, Lady Caroline Lamb andMary Mitford.Henry Holland the builder and his son,Henry Holland the architect, put forwardplans in 1771 to develop 89 acres of fieldsand market gardens betweenKnightsbridge in the north and Blacklands– what is now Turks Row, behind theSaatchi Gallery – in the south. It was anambitious scheme. To put it in perspective,the £2 billion regeneration of King’s Crosswhich is destined to deliver 2,000 homes,500,000 sq ft of retail and 3.4 million sq ftof offices, covers only 67 acres.The Holland scheme – known as HansTown after Sir Hans Sloane, whose heirsowned the land – became the model formany new towns in central London duringthe building boom in the 18th and 19thcenturies.Work on Hans Town began in 1777, andby 1790, spacious three-storey Georgianterraces lined the west side of SloaneStreet and flowed into Hans Place, HansStreet and Hans Crescent.The buildings had been let on 99-yearleases and when the leases came to anend, the <strong>Cadogan</strong> Estate launched a redevelopmentprogramme in a style that artcritic, author and cartoonist OsbertLancaster described as ‘Pont Street Dutch’.The red-brick buildings, with their large windows,ornamentation and gables, areinstantly recognisable.Sloane PlaceHenry Holland the architect built himself amansion south of Hans Place, set in threeacres, and had moved in by 1789.Pont Street Dutch gablesOriginally called Sloane Place, it becameknown as the Pavilion because the frontof the house was built as a model for theBrighton Pavilion, with a Doric columncolonnade.The south of the mansion looked overlandscapes designed by ‘Capability’Brown, Holland’s father-in-law and partner.The gardens featured a Gothic icehouseand a faux ruined priory, createdusing stones from the demolished homeof Cardinal Wolsey.The Pavilion was demolished duringthe 19th-century redevelopment, but iscommemorated in the name of PavilionRoad. <strong>Cadogan</strong> Square was laid out inpart of the gardens.22 Hans Place22 Hans Place was a school in 1978,attended by Lady Caroline Lamb, novel-ist Mary Russell Mitford and journalist,poet and novelist Letitia Landon, whowas known by her initials, LEL.Lady Caroline Lamb (1785-1828)married the future prime minister, the2nd Viscount Melbourne, and is bestknown for her affair with Lord Byron. Shefamously described Byron as, “mad, badand dangerous to know.”Mary Mitford (1787-1855), who wroteOur Village, was a friend of ElizabethBarrett Browning and had plays producedin Covent Garden.Letitia Landon (1802-1838) had herfirst poem published in the LiteraryGazette when she was 18, and went onto become its chief reviewer. Her poetrywas popular but her reputation sufferedafter rumours began to circulate that shehad given birth to secret children –something her fiancé John Foster did nothelp with when he investigated to see if itwas true.She broke off the engagement andmarried the governor of the Gold Coastin Africa in 1838, leaving Britain behind.Two months after she arrived in Africa,she was found dead with a bottle ofprussic acid in her hand.After redevelopment, 22 Hans Placebecame the headquarters of the IrishTreaty delegation. It was decided thereon December 5, 1921, that the delegateswould recommend the Anglo-IrishTreaty, which ended the Irish War ofIndependence, to the Dáil Éireann.23 Hans PlaceJane Austen’s brother Henry lived in ahouse at 64 Sloane Street in 1811 andJane visited him in the spring, just beforeSense and Sensibility was published. Buttwo years later, his wife had died and hehad moved to rooms above his bank inCovent Garden. In 1813, he moved to23 Hans Place and Jane stayed with himseveral times before he became ill in1815.