Sukhothai - Tourism Authority of Thailand, Malaysia

Sukhothai Historical Park

10 11Sukhothai is located on the lower edge of the northern region,with the provincial capital situated some 450 km. north ofBangkok and some 350 km. south of Chiang Mai. The provincecovers 6,596 sq. km. and is above all noted as the centre of theold Thai kingdom of Sukhothai, with major historical remainsat Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai. Its main natural attraction isKhao Luang mountain park. The provincial capital, sometimescalled New Sukhothai, is a small town lying on the Yom Riverwhose main business is serving tourists who visit the nearbySukhothai Historical Park.City AttractionsPhra Mae Ya ShrineSituated in front of the City Hall, the Shrine houses the PhraMae Ya figure, in ancient queen’s dress, said to have been madeby King Ramkhamhaeng as a dedication to his late mother NangSueang.Sangkhalok MuseumThe Museum displays Sangkhalok (Sawankhalok) ceramics ofthe kind produced in old Sukhothai and ceramics produced inthe old Lanna Kingdom (now northern Thailand). Located 1 km.from town on the Phitsanulok Road; open daily 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; admission : 100 baht adults, 20 baht children.Wat Si ChumFish MuseumLocated in Rama IV Park on the Phitsanulok Road, the Museumdisplays a variety of freshwater fish mentioned in Thai literature.Open daily except Tuesdays 9 a.m.-5 p.m., admission free.Old SukhothaiFounded in the 13 th century, Sukhothai was the first trulySukhothai Historical Park Wat MahathatSukhothaiThe province covers 6,596 sq. km. and is aboveall noted as the centre of the old Thai kingdomof Sukhothai, with major historical remains atSukhothai and Si Satchanalai.

12 13independent Thai kingdom, and it enjoyed a golden age underthe great King Ramkhamhaeng. Abandoned and overgrownfor many centuries, the superb temples and monuments of thissplendid city have been restored in Sukhothai Historical Park,a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A must-see for all travellers,Sukhothai is one of the most important historical sites inSoutheast Asia.Historical BackgroundSukhothai, which means “Dawn of Happiness”, was the firstkingdom of the Thais, formed after Thai forces drove theKhmers out of the city, a major frontier post of the KhmerEmpire, and established it as their capital in 1238. The firstking’s son, Ramkhamhaeng, ascended the throne in 1278 andreigned for forty years. A fine warrior, King Ramkhamhaeng theGreat made Sukhothai a powerful and extensive kingdom whichincluded many parts of what are today neighbouring countries.King Ramkhamhaeng the Great opened direct political relationswith China and made two trips there, from which he broughtback Chinese artisans who taught the Thai fine pottery techniques,resulting in the famous Sawankhalok ceramics. A majorachievement of his reign was the revision of various forms ofthe Khmer alphabet into a system suitable for the writing ofThai. The alphabet that the king invented in 1283 is essentiallythe same that is used today.King Ramkhamhaeng the Great’s reign is noted for prosperityand happiness, as recorded in a stone inscription well-known toThais.“This realm of Sukhothai is good. In the water there are fish;in the fields there is rice. The ruler does not levy a tax on thepeople who travel along the road together, leading their oxenWat Chang LomWat Phra Si Rattana Mahathaton the way to trade and riding their horses on the way to sell.Whoever wants to trade in elephants, so trades. Whoever wantsto trade in horses, so trades. Whoever wants to trade in silverand gold, so trades.”King Ramkhamhaeng the Great also promoted religion andculture, and through his efforts Buddhism progressed among thepeople. Inspirational faith gave birth to classic forms of Thai religiousart. Images of the Buddha sculpted during the Sukhothaiera are cultural treasures which impart a feeling of peace andserenity. Eight kings ruled Sukhothai, whose gradual declineoccurred during the last two reigns. The end of the first Thaikingdom came in 1365 when it was reduced to a vassal state byAyutthaya, a young and rising Thai power to the south, whichbecame the capital for four centuries, succeeded by Bangkok.Sukhothai Historical ParkThe Park is located 12 km. from Sukhothai town on the TakHighway; open daily 8.30 a.m.-4.30 p.m.; admission 40 baht.

14 15Bicycles can be rented for touring the ruins. The Park’s TouristService Centre (Tel: 0 5569 7310) provides information anddisplays models of historical buildings and structures of the oldSukhothai. Lying over an extensive area, ruins of the royal palaces,Buddhist temples, city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches,ponds, canals and the water dyke control system are preserved,with major restoration by the Fine Arts Department in cooperationwith UNESCO.Inside the City WallsThe core city was surrounded by walls and earthen ramparts;this forms the centre of the historical park. It was rectangular,1,300 m. by 1,800 m., with four gates. A stone inscriptionrecords that King Ramkhamhaeng the Great set up a bell at oneof the gates. If his subjects needed help, they could ring the belland the king would come out to settle disputes and dispensejustice. Within the walls are the remains of 35 structures. Themost notable are described as follows:Royal Palace and Wat MahathatThe Royal Palace lies in the centre of the city, surrounded bya moat and contains two main compounds: the royal residenceand the royal sanctuary. Here, the famous stone inscription ofKing Ramkhamhaeng the Great was found by King Mongkut(Rama IV) in the 19 th century together with part of the stonethrone called Manangkhasila-at. King Ramkhamhaeng the Greatset up a throne in the midst of a sugar-palm grove where, at hisrequest, a monk preached on Buddhist holy days and the kingconducted the affairs of state on other days. This throne waslater installed in Bangkok’s Temple of the Emerald Buddha.Lying west of the Royal Palace compound is Wat Mahathat, theWat MahathatWat Mahathat

16 17Wat Mahathatroyal sanctuary, which is Sukhothai’s largest temple witha customary main chedi (bell-shaped stupa) in a lotus-bud shapeand ruined vihara (image hall). At the base of the chedi areBuddhist disciples sitting in adoration, and on the pedestal aresitting Buddha images. In front of this reliquary is a large viharaformerly containing a remarkable sitting bronze Buddha imageof the Sukhothai style, which was cast and installed by KingLithai of Sukhothai in 1362. In the late 18 th century, the imagewas moved to the Vihara Luang of Wat Suthat in Bangkok bythe order of King Rama I and has since been named Phra SiSakaya Muni. In front of the large vihara, is another smallervihara which was probably built during the Ayutthaya period. Itsmain Buddha image (8 m. high) was installed inside a separatebuilding. In front of the southern image, a sculpture calledKhom Dam Din was found, now kept in the Mae Ya Shrinenear the Sukhothai City Hall. To the south stands a pedestal ofa large stepped chedi, whose lowest platform is adorned withbeautiful stucco figures of demons, elephants, and lions withangels riding on their backs. A mural painting adorns this chedi.King Ramkhamhaeng the Great MonumentSituated to the north of Wat Mahathat, the bronze statue of KingRamkhamhaeng the Great sits on a throne with a bas-relief atthe base depicting the king’s life.Wat Mahathat

18 19its pedestal and laterite columns remain. Many monuments andmagnificent scenery are visible from this location.Wat Chana SongkhramSituated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Chana Songkhram.Its main sanctuary is a round Singhalese-style chedi. In frontof the chedi is the base of a vihara and behind the chedi standsan ubosot. Bases of twelve small chedi are also visible. NearCharot Withithong Road is a strange chedi with three bases,one on top of the other.San Ta Pha Daeng or Deity ShrineSituated to the north of Wat Mahathat is San Ta Pha Daeng.This monument consists of a single laterite prang witha staircase in front. Sandstone Hindu divine objects (Lop Buristyle) were found here.Wat MaiSituated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Mai, with an Ayutthaya-stylebrick vihara as the main sanctuary, its columns madeof laterite. A bronze image of Buddha under a Naga(a Lop Buri-style image) was found here and is now preservedin the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.Loi Krathong and Candle FestivalWat Si SawaiSituated amid magnificent scenery southwest of Wat Mahathatis Wat Si Sawai, with three prangs surrounded by a lateritewall. Inside the wall, the vihara in the west, built of laterite, isseparated from the main prang (Khmer-style pagoda) which wasconstructed in the Lop Buri or Hindu-style. A trace of the Hindusculpture Sayomphu was found here, indicating this was originallya Hindu shrine, later converted into a Buddhist temple.Wat Traphang ThongSituated to the east of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang Thong.The temple is located on an island in the middle of the largepond. There is a ruined laterite Singhalese-style chedi and a newmondop containing the Lord Buddha’s Footprint slab that wascreated by King Lithai in 1390. An annual fair to worship thissacred footprint takes place during the Loi Krathong Festival.King Ramkhamhaeng the Great MonumentWat Traphang NgoenSituated to the west of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang Ngoenwith its square pedestal, main sanctuary and stucco standingBuddha image in four niches. There is a vihara in front, and tothe east of the pond there is an island with an ubosot(consecrated assembly hall). This edifice has crumbled and only

22 23Wat Saphan HinRamkhamhaeng National Park (Khao Luang Sukhothai)This exquisite national park with a combined natural and historicalbackground covers an area of 341 sq. km. of high hillsand steep cliffs, some over 1,200 m. high, together with waterfalls,varied vegetation and wildlife are the natural attractionsalongside archaeological remains.This park is accessed via Highway 101 south from Sukhothaifor about 20 km. then west via a 16 km. laterite road. Trekkersmust bring food and essential equipment with them. Bungalowsand tents are available. For more information in Bangkok,contact the National Park,Wildlife and Plant ConservationDepartment Tel. 0 2562 0760.SawankhalokSawankhaworanayok National MuseumLocated at Sawankhalok town, 38 km. north of Sukhothai viaHighway 101, the Museum features sculptural art from variousperiods and Sangkhalok (Sawankhalok) pottery from the Sukhothaiera, some of it retrieved from sunken vessels in the Gulf ofThailand. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 8.30 a.m.-4 p.m.; except public holidays. For more information, call0 5564 1571.Lord Buddha of the Future.Wat Chang LomThe Sites to the EastWat Chang LomThis temple is located to the north of Charot Withithong Roadwith a bell-shaped chedi of Ceylonese influence standing at thecentre. The chedi is situated on a three-tiered square base witha platform decorated with rows of elephants. This type of elephant- decorated chedi is to be seen in many ancient towns ofthe Sukhothai period; for example, Kamphaeng Phet andSi Satchanalai.Wat Traphang ThonglangA square mondop is the main sanctuary. In front of the mondopto the east is a vihara and beyond the vihara stands an ubosot.The outer wall of the mondop is beautifully decorated withstucco figures in niches. The southern side portrays the LordBuddha flanked by angles descending from Tavatimsa Heaven(the second heaven in Buddhist six heavens). The west side portraysthe Lord Buddha preaching to his father and relatives. Thenorth side depicts the episode when the Lord Buddha returnedto preach to his wife. These stucco figures, especially those onthe south side, are masterpieces of Sukhothai art.

24 25Si SatchanalaiSi Satchanalai was a city of the Sukhothai kingdom,located close to the modern town of Si Satchanalai, which is67 km. north of new Sukhothai via Highway 101.Si Satchanalai Historical ParkSi Satchanalai Historical Park contains the remains of Sukhothai-eraStructures in a park and setting similar to SukhothaiHistorical Park. The 13 th to 15 th century ruins are located besidethe Yom River among hills and are less restored than those ofSukhothai. Open daily 8.30 a.m.- 4.30 p.m.The ancient site was the kingdom’s second city and theresidence of the crown prince. It enjoyed great importance, asdemonstrated by the size of its remains. Ruins of 134 structureshave been discovered within the park area.Wat Phra Si Rattana MahathatThis temple, also called Wat Phra Borommathat Mueang Chaliangor Wat Phra Prang, is situated 3 km. to the south of ancientSi Satchanalai’s walls. An immense laterite prang ona square base marks the centre of the temple. A steep staircasein front of the huge prang leads to a room where a reliquaryis enshrined.Wat Khao Phanom PhloengThis is a hilltop temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai.A laterite chedi in the centre, a large vihara or image hall infront and a small sanctuary behind all lie in ruins. Some lateritepillars and a damaged Buddha image constructed of lateriteslabs and coated with mortar are seen.Wat Khao Suwan KhiriThe hilltop temple is situated 200 m. from Phanom PhloengHill. A huge bell-shaped chedi on a five-tiered base marks theSi Satchanalai Historical ParkSi Satchanalai Historical Park

26 27centre of the temple. Ruins of a vihara, chedi and fragments ofhuge stucco figures lie scattered on the ground. Thesimilarity between some figures here and those at Sukhothai’sWat Chang Lom lead to the belief that King Ramkhamhaeng theGreat had this temple constructed.Wat Chang LomA huge bell-shaped chedi supported by 39 elephants, with fourat the cardinal points elaborately decorated marks the centre ofthe temple. Above the chedi’s base there are niches enshriningimages in the attitude of Subduing Mara (demon).Wat Chedi Chet ThaeoThis is one of the most beautiful temples in Sukhothai Province.Stupa of different artistic styles and influence were built here.Remnants of old mural paintings can still be seen in somestupa.Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan YaiLocated near Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo, across a dirt road, thistemple has the ruins of a large image hall. It is also called WatKao Hong, the Nine-Roomed Temple.Wat Nang PhayaThis temple is famous for its delicate stucco reliefs on the remainsof the northwestern wall of the seven-roomed vihara. Thepillars are decorated with unglazed ceramic designs. The centrallaterite stupa is surrounded by lamp-posts and accessible by aset Wat of Nang narrow Phaya stairs.Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan NoiThis temple’s ruins consist of a frontal vihara housinga Buddha, complete with a laterite roof.Sangkhalok Kiln Site Study and Conservation CentreAt one time, hundreds of huge pottery kilns lined the Yom Riverin this area. Several have been carefully excavated and one, ovalwith a curved roof and 7-8 m. wide, can be viewed within thecentre, while at another site a short distance away, there isa large outdoor kiln prepared for viewing. The centre displayspottery and potsherds, found in the area and information on theevolution of ancient ceramics. Located some 4 km. north ofSi Satchanalai; open daily 9 a.m.- 4 p.m. To get there, drive6.5 km. north of Si Satchanalai Historical Park to Ban Ko Noi,or take Highway 1201 from Si Satchanalai.Si Satchanalai National ParkThis forest and mountain park (213 sq. km.) offers trekkingroutes to waterfalls, caves and a hot spring. The park is about100 km. from Sukhothai via Highways 1113 and 1294 andcan be reached by a local bus (once daily, 50 mins) from SiSatchanalai where there is accommodation. For reservations andmore information in Bangkok, call 0 2579 5734, 0 2579 7223 or0 5561 9214-5.FestivalsSi Satchanalai Ordination CelebrationAprilLocally called Buat Chang Hat Siao, this event is held at HatSieo, Si Satchanalai, arranged by the local Thai Phuan people.It features a spectacular procession of ordination candidates(men about to become Buddhist monks) in colourful costumeson the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants.Songkran Festival13-15 AprilThis is the traditional Thai New Year celebration, also knownas the Water Festival. Songkran was mentioned in the famousstone inscription dating from the reign of King Ramkhamhaengthe Great.Loi Krathong and Candle FestivalOctober/ NovemberA grand Loi Krathong celebration is held at the Sukhothai HistoricalPark. The Festival is held over five days to celebrate Loi

30 31Wat Yai Tha SaoWat ThammathipataiUttaraditA flourishing port for regional trade, it wasrenamed Uttaradit, literally the Port of theNorth, by King Rama V (1868-1910) and madea provincial capital.A province in the Lower North, Uttaradit has a long history goingback to at least the Sukhothai period (13 th century).Today, it is most noted for the cultivation of langsat fruit and forthe major lake formed by the Sirikit Dam. The provincial capitalis located 491 km. from Bangkok and the province covers anarea of 7,838 sq.km. The original town, called Bang Pho ThaIt, was located on the right bank of the Nan River. A flourishingport for regional trade, it was renamed Uttaradit, literally thePort of the North, by King Rama V (1868-1910) and made aprovincial capital. When the northern railway line was built inthe early 20 th century with a stop at Uttaradit, the town receiveda further boost. Unfortunately, the town centre was largely destroyedin a fire in 1967 and was rebuilt in a modern style.City AttractionsWat ThammathipataiAt this temple, the door panels of the large and ancient viharaof Wat Phra Fang are kept. The wooden panels are 2.2 m. wideand 5.3 m. tall and are carved in the graceful style of the LateAyutthaya Period. Only the panels at Wat Suthat in Bangkok areregarded as better.Wat Tha Thanon

32 33Located beside the Nan River, this temple houses Luang PhoPhet, the principal Buddha statue of the province. It is in theancient Chiang Saen style and cast in bronze.Wat Yai Tha SaoSituated east of the town centre about 3 km. along SamranrunRoad, this temple features an old chapel with beautifully carvedwood door panels and lintels.Phaya Phichai Dap Hak MemorialThis statue commemorates a governor who in 1772 valiantlyfought the Burmese invaders until one of his swords broke intwo. Still he prevailed over them, and is remembered as“Phichai of the Broken Sword”.Uttaradit Provincial Cultural HallOnce the official residence of the provincial governor, thislate 19 th century traditional wooden building houses importanthistorical relics. A major item is the Yan Mat, a carved woodencarrying pole made by Late Ayutthaya period craftsmen.Out-Of-City AttractionsWat KlangLocated about 3 km. outside town at Ban Kae, this old templehas beautiful plaster bas-reliefs over the ubosot. Inside are rarewall murals of the Early Rattanakosin period style depicting theJataka and assemblage of celestial beings.Wat Phra Boromathat Thung YangWat Phra Boromathat Thung YangWat Phra Thaen Sila AtLocated about 3 km. from town on Highway 102, this oldtemple, once called Wat Mahathat, has a large roundSri Lankan style chedi enshrining a holy relic.Wat Phra Yun Phutthabat YukhonSituated near Wat Phra Boromathat Thung Yang, this templefeatures a Chiang Saen-style mondop sheltering holy footprints.It also houses a bronze Sukhothai-style Buddha statue.LaplaeAn ancient community dating from the Ayutthaya period,Laplae is an attractive place to visit with old wooden houses,hand-woven textiles and other craft specialities. It is also amajor producer of langsat, the province’s famous fruit. It lieswest of town via Highway 102 for 3 km., then to the right alongHighway 1041 for a further 6 km.Wat Phra Thaen Sila AtLocated near Laplae, this temple is believed to be of the SukhothaiPeriod. Its major feature is the base of a sermon platformbuilt with laterite.Namtok Mae PhunLocated at Ban Ton Klua, about 20 km. from town, the waterfallfeatures multi-level cascades amid pleasant naturalsurroundings.Sirikit Dam

34 35MayA unique religious ritual, is performed at Wat Phra BoromathatThung Yang after Visakha Puja Day in May. It featuresa re-enactment of the Buddha’s funeral ceremony.Langsat Day FairLate SeptemberThis day celebrates the province’s famous fruit. Langsat-growinghas long been the main occupation of the local people. Thefair features exhibitions, contests and parades of floats decoratedwith fruits and flowers, as well as entertainment.ShoppingInteresting items include woven materials with lovely designsand colours, and preserved fruit such as the chewy Kluai Kuanmade from bananas.Sak Yai Forest ParkBo Lek Nam PhiSituated at Tha Pla some 68 km. from town on the Uttaradit-Tha Pla Road, this is the country’s largest earthen dam. Stemmingthe Nan River, the dam is 800 m. wide. The large lake hasbeautiful scenery and during the cool season the landscape iscovered in a profusion of colourful flowers and blooms. Accommodationand boating services are available.Sak Yai Forest ParkThis park, located in Amphoe Nam Pat about 80 km. from townon Highways 1045, 1146 and 1047, features the largest teak treein the world. It has a circumference of 9.87 m. and an age ofabout 1,500 years. Sadly, its top was broken off in a storm, cuttingits height from 48.5 m. to 37 m., but it is still alive.Bo Lek Nam PhiHere swords and other weapons were forged from high qualitysteel. There are two mines still in existence, whose ores arebelieved to have been used to make the king’s swords only. Thisancient site is reached by going to Thong Saen Khan (42 km.southeast of town), then taking Highway 1245 for 14 km.FestivalsThe Tradition of Buddha CremationHow To Get There• By Car1. From Bangkok, take Highway 1 (alternative: Highway 32after Ayutthaya) to Nakhon Sawan, then Highway 117 to Phitsanulok,then Highways 12 and 11 to Uttaradit.2. From Bangkok, take Highway 1 to Ayutthaya, then Highway32 to In Buri, then Highway 11 to Uttaradit.• By BusAir-conditioned and non air-conditioned buses depart fromBangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road for Uttaradit.For more information, call 0 2936 2852-66 or visit www.transport.co.th, or call Win Tour (0 2936 3753-4) or CherdchaiTour (0 2936 0199).• By RailTrains depart from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station for Uttaraditeveryday. Tel. 0 2220 4334 or Hotline 1690, www.railway.co.th for more information.• By AirBangkok Airways flies from Bangkok to Sukhothai. For moreinformation, Tel.0 2265 5555 or Hotline 1771, www.bangkokair.com.

36 37Phitsanulok is a major province of the Lower North locatedwhere the Central Plains begin to rise into the Northern region.The provincial capital is 377 km. north of Bangkok and boasts anationally important temple. Most of the terrain is flat, contrastedby mountain ranges running along the east where waterfallsand national parks offer opportunities for nature treks. The townof Phitsanulok, situated on the banks of the Nan River, has beena major community since ancient Khmer times and enjoyedgreat prosperity during the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods.During 1463-1487, the city was in effect the royal capital asKing Borom Trailokanat of Ayutthaya resided permanently inthe province. Regrettably, most of the city was destroyed by afire in 1955, and today it is built in the modern style.City AttractionsWat Phra Si Rattana MahathatThis nationally important temple, commonly called Wat Yai,with its origin in the 14 th century is on the river’s east bank. Thevihara houses what is regarded as the most beautiful and gracefulBuddha statue in Thailand, the large bronze sitting statueof Phra Phuttha Chinnarat in the Sukhothai style, dating fromthe 14 th century. A celebration honouring the Chinnarat Buddhais held in late January. Other prominent features are the imagehall’s large pearl-inlaid doors made in 1756 by royal craftsmenand an 8 m. tall standing Buddha image called Phra Attharot,Phra Phattha ChinnaratPhitsanulokThe provincial capital is 377 km. north of Bangkokand boasts a nationally important temple.Most of the terrain is flat, contrasted by mountainranges running along the eastwhere waterfalls and national parks offer opportunitiesfor nature treks.Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat

38 39King Narai the Great of Ayutthaya. There is also a Khmer-stylepagoda (Prang) built with laterite, adorned with intricate swandesigns.King Naresuan the Great ShrineThe Shrine is on the site of the former Chan Palace, the birthplaceand residence of King Naresuan the Great, a revered kingfamous for defending the nation from the Burmese. Locatedclose to the river on the west bank, it features a statue of theking declaring independence from Burma.Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathatof the same period as the Chinnarat Buddha, originally housedin a large hall which has all but crumbled away. In the centreof the compound is a great Khmer-style pagoda or prang. It isthought the structure was originally a lotus bud-shaped stupa ofSukhothai style, and was altered into a prang during the earlyAyutthaya period.Folklore MuseumThis museum on Wisutkasat Road is regarded as Thailand’slargest and best collection of indigenous arts and utensils,a labour of love by Dr. Thawi. It displays pottery, kitchenware,agricultural tools and musical instruments, all reflecting the lifestyleand creativity of the traditional community. Open Tuesdayto Sunday, 8.30 a.m.- 4.30 p.m.; admission is free.Buddha - Casting FoundrySituated opposite the Folklore Museum and also created byDr. Thawi, the Foundry specialises in casting bronze Buddhaimages and statues, mostly copies of the Chinnarat Buddha inall sizes. Visitors are welcome; open Tuesday to Sunday,8.30 a.m.- 4.30 p.m.Wat RatchaburanaSituated on the east bank of the Nan River and south of WatPhra Si Rattana Mahathat, this temple also survived the fire. Theordination hall features a graceful three-headed Naga (mythicalserpent) over its eaves and murals painted in the early 19 thcentury. It was built by King Borom Trailokanat, who played amajor role in fostering Buddhism in the province.Wat Chedi Yot ThongLocated on Phaya Sua Road, this temple has a 15 th century lotusbud-shaped chedi of the typical Sukhothai style, the only suchstructure left in the province.Wat Chula ManiLocated on the east bank of the Nan River, about 5 km. southof the town centre on the Borom Trailokanat Road, this wasthe site of the original town. King Borom Trailokanat, accompaniedby more than 2,000 followers, was ordained as a monkhere in 1416. An important ancient structure in the temple is thehall containing a holy footprint and inscription stone built byCity WallsOriginally made of clay likethose of Sukhothai and builtduring the Ayutthaya periodto deter raids from Lannaand Burma, remnants canbe seen to the north andeast of town. Part of theold 12 m. wide city moatstill exists to the west oftown parallel to Phra RuangRoad.HouseboatsUniquely situated withina Thai city, many peopledwell in houseboats mooredon the river.Out-Of-CityKing Naresuan the Great Shrine

40 41watersheds feeding several streams flowing into the Nan River.A good walking trail starts from the sub-office at Ban NongMae Na (Km.100) and leads alternately through forest andsavanna. Thung Non Son, a grassy plateau in the heart of thepark, abounds with wild flowers in October to December. It lies16 km. by car and a further 15 km. on foot from Ban Nong MaeNa.Namtok Chattrakan National ParkThis forest and waterfall park lies some 145 km. from town. Itis reached via Highway 12, turning left at Km.68 onto Highway2013 to Nakhon Thai, then taking Highway 1143 to ChattrakanDistrict. The water cascades down seven tiers to a wide poolwith a beach. Some cliff faces carry traces of prehistoric carvings.Camping is allowed after contacting park officials.Phu Soi Dao National ParkThis park stretches along the Thai-Lao border in ChattrakanDistrict with the highest peak being 2,102 m. and the climateis cool most of the year. Attractive features of the park arewild flowers in the rainy season, savanna and waterfalls. It isnecessary to use guides for access and camping equipment forovernight stays.Namtok Wang Nok AnAttractionsHighway 12 Scenic RouteCutting through the eastern mountain ranges of Phitsanulok, theroute offers a series of attractive forested areas and waterfallswithin national parks. To visit these places, transport can behired in town. Highlights include: Namtok Wang Nok An, withinthe Sakunothayan Arboretum, which is 1 km. off the mainhighway at Km.33, with Kaeng Sai Rapids. At Km.45, KaengSong Waterfall. At Km.72 and a further 2 km. off the road is anextensive three-level waterfall, Namtok Kang Sopha runningover massive rock formations amongst lush vegetation. The besttime to visit all waterfalls is from September to December whenthe water flows are at a maximum.Phu Hin Rong Kla National ParkThis is an outstanding national park with unique scenic attractionsand historical significance. Located where Phitsanulokmeets Phetchabun Province, Phu Hin Rong Kla is reached viaHighway 12, turning right at Km.68 onto Highway 2013 travelling28 km. to Nakhon Thai, then taking Highway 2331 foranother 31 km. The mountainous area wasThung Salaeng Luang National ParkThung Salaeng Luang National ParkThis protected area of mountain forests and grasslands covers1,262 sq. km. The park office, where information may beobtained and accommodation booked, is at Km.80 on Highway12. The grasslands are bright with flowers, particularly duringthe late rainy season (October). The mountain ranges are

42 43ShoppingPreserved food products are a speciality, notably Kluai Tak,which are dried bananas coated with honey. Also popular areitems made from pork such as Nam (sour sausage) and Mu Yo.How To Get There• By Car1. From Bangkok, take Highway 1 and 32 to Nakhon Sawan,then Highway 117 to Phitsanulok (total 337 km.).2. From Bangkok, take Highway 1 to Ayutthaya, thenHighway 32 to In Buri, then Highway 11 to Wang Thong, thenHighway 12 to Phitsanulok (total 450 km.).Namtok Kang Sophaa communist guerilla base from 1967 to 1982 and many radicalstudents fled here after the 1976 massacre of students inBangkok. Reminders of the struggle are living quarters, schools,a hospital and other facilities. There are also beautiful waterfallsand strange rock formations with jagged boulders and deepcrevices. The Park has accommodation, campsites and foodfacilities.Interesting ActivityFlying VegetablesTouring Phitsanulok city by tricycle rickshaw (samlor, ortrishaw) is recommended, particularly around the river bankswhere floating restaurants abound with theatrical cooks making“flying vegetables”. The speciality is a dish called Phak BungLoi Fa to which is attached a big performance in which thecooks toss fried water spinach “sky-high”.FestivalLong Boat Races & FairOctoberThese races and fair are held when the Nan River is full at theclimax of the rainy season. The Fair is held in front of Wat PhraSi Rattana Mahathat. Robes are placed over the Phra PhutthaChinnarat, and there are contests of boat processions and raceswith scores of boats.• By BusBuses depart from Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng PhetII Road. For more information call Transport Co., Ltd. on 0 29362852-66; Phitsanulok Yan Yon Tour on 0 2936 2924-5; CherdchaiTour on 0 2936 0199 or Win Tour on 0 2936 3753.• By RailTrains depart from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Stationfor Phitsanulok. Call 1690 for more information.• By AirThai Airways operates daily flights (50 mins) from Bangkok toPhitsanulok. In Bangkok call 1566 for more information, or inPhitsanulok call 0 5525 8020.Long Boat Races

44 45Situated in the heart of Thailand, with its provincial capitalsome 346 km. north of Bangkok, Phetchabun is the meetingplace of three regions, the North, the Central Plains and theNortheast.The province centres on the Pa Sak River basin with mountainranges running along both the western and eastern reaches. Becauseof the fertility of the soil, Phetchabun has always been aproductive area, and its very name means “the land of crops andfood”. The province has a long and prosperous history and richtourism potential. Its climate is attractive due to the mountainsand forests.City AttractionsWat MahathatThis temple on Nikon Bamrung Road has several ancient stupasof the Sukhothai style.Phetchabun City Pillar ShrineRelocated from the ancient town of Si Thep, this is consideredthe oldest such structure in Thailand.Phu Tab BuekPhetchabunBecause of the fertility of the soil, Phetchabunhas always been a productive area, and its veryname means “the land of crops and food”. Theprovince has a long and prosperous history andrich tourism potential. Its climate is attractivedue to the mountains and forests.Wat Trai PhumThis temple on Phetcharat Road features a Buddha statue calledPhra Buddha Maha Dhammaracha cast in the ornamental LopBuri style. The ritual bathing of the image is performed eachSeptember.Out-Of-City AtrractionsHuai Pa Dang DamCreated by a dam constructed for irrigation purposes, locatedsome 8 km. west of town on Highway 2006, this isa pleasant place with scenic views.Accomodation in Khao Kho

46 47Tat Mok National ParkThis forest park has a huge waterfall fed by streams flowingdown mountain crevices, creating twelve beautiful tiers. Toreach the park, drive east for some 15 km. to Ban ChaliangLap, then take a right turn onto Highway 2275, then a left fork,continuing for 20 km.Si Thep Historical ParkSome 130 km. south of Phetchabun on Highway 21, and another9 km. after a left turn, lie the ruins of Si Thep. An ancient townwhere many structures still remain indicative of its past prosperityduring the 11 th -18 th Buddhist Centuries, Si Thep was thecentre of contact between the Dvaravati Kingdom in the CentralPlains and the Khmer Kingdom in the Northeast. There arewidespread remains of laterite buildings and of several ponds.Artefacts found here include elaborate lintels, Sema stones(used to mark out the limits of Buddhist temples) and jewellery.Khao KhoBare 1,000 m. high mountains to the northwest of town, KhaoKho was a base from which communist insurgents conductedtheir struggle from 1968 to1982. It is accessible via two routes:off Highway 12 (Phitsanulok-Lom Sak) at Ban Camp Son,and off Highway 21 at Ban Na Ngua, about 13 km. north oftown. Both routes wind through steep terrain. Interesting placesinclude various viewing points, remains of guerrilla bases, a warmemorial, an arms museum, a stupa containing a holy relic, theSi Dit Falls and a royal palace.B.N. FarmThis experimental farm grows cold-climate crops, includingvarious flowers which bloom in season and is beautifully scenic.It is situated on the route to Khao Kho 3 km. from Ban CampSon, off Highway 21 to the north of town. Fruit-based items areon sale.Phu Hin Rong KlaLocated in the mountains northwest of Lom Sak, in the north ofthe province, amidst exotic scenery, this was a communist guerrillabase in the 1970s and 1980s. See the Phitsanulok sectionfor more information.Namtok Man Daeng, Phu Hin Rong KlaNam Nao National ParkIts office located some 50 km. east of Lom Sak along Highway12, this is an immense tract of dry evergreen forest. Spread overrolling hills and including pineries and grasslands, it is the habitatof many diverse animals, and more than 100 bird species. InDecember and January, the temperature can drop to as low as2 degrees Celsius. Points of interest are spread out. Attractionsreached by taking Highway 12 include: Tham Pha Hong withstalactites and stalagmites, located 300 m. north from Km.39;Ban Paek Pinery, reached by a 5 km. walk from Km.49; PhuKhum Khao Pinery, 15 km. from Km.53, covering an area ofabout 10 sq.km. and Heo Sai and Sai Thong Falls, located onthe same trail, reached on foot, 1 km. and 1.5 km. respectivelyoff the main road at Km.67. There are also attractions on Highway2216 (Lom Kao-Huai Sanam Sai) such as Pha Lom-PhaKong which are 5 km. from Km.40 and Tham Yai Nam Naonear Km.60.FestivalsSweet Tamarind DayJanuary-FebruarySweet tamarind is strongly associated with Phetchabun andSweet Tamarind Day celebrates the harvest of this fruit. Duringthe festival, farmers bring their sweet tamarinds to sell atreasonable prices at Phetchabun’s provincial athletic field where

48 49best crop contests are held. In addition, there is a variety ofother entertainment.Um Phra Dam Nam CeremonySeptemberHeld on the 15 th day of the waning moon in the 10 th lunarmonth, or Sat Thai Day, the day in which Thais make merit byproffering Krayasat, sticky paste made from rice, bean, sesameand sugar and other offerings to monks. The festival honoursPhra Buddha Maha Dhammaracha, a highly revered ancientBuddha image. The image was found in the Pasak River bya group of farmers 400 years ago and taken to Wat Trai Phum.According to legend, the image twice wandered out of thetemple and was later found in water, and so the ritual bathingceremony came about. In the afternoon, the image is carriedaround town and then put under a tent in Wat Trai Phum,so Buddhists can pay respect by applying gold leaf to the statue.In the evening, prayers are chanted. At night, there are variouskinds of entertainment. The next morning, people make meritas it is Sat Thai Day. Food and other necessities are given tomonks. The Buddha image is then taken to be immersed inthe Pasak River by the governor of Phetchabun and traditionaldances are performed to show respect to it. After the ceremony,the water in the river is regarded as sacred, so people swim init or take the water to drink, and then there are traditional longboat races.ShoppingUm Phra Dam Nam CeremonyMakham Wan, sweet tamarind, a crop widely grown in Phetch-Resort in Khao Khoabun. Khanom Chin, a noodle-like dish made from flour, popularin Lom Kao District.How To Get There• By CarFrom Bangkok, take Highway 1 via Saraburi to Phu Khae(Km.125), then turn right onto Highway 21.• By BusBoth air-conditioned and non air-conditioned bus services plythe Bangkok-Phetchabun-Lom Sak route. Buses depart fromthe Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road. Call0 2936 2852-66 for more information, or Phet Tour on 0 29363230 or Thin Siam Tour on 0 2936 0500.• By AirThai Airways flies from Bangkok to Phetchabun on Tuesday,Thursday and Saturday. Call 1566 or 0 2628 2000, for moreinformation.

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