12 13independent Thai kingdom, and it enjoyed a golden age underthe great King Ramkhamhaeng. Abandoned and overgrownfor many centuries, the superb temples and monuments <strong>of</strong> thissplendid city have been restored in <strong>Sukhothai</strong> Historical Park,a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A must-see for all travellers,<strong>Sukhothai</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> the most important historical sites inSoutheast Asia.Historical Background<strong>Sukhothai</strong>, which means “Dawn <strong>of</strong> Happiness”, was the firstkingdom <strong>of</strong> the Thais, formed after Thai forces drove theKhmers out <strong>of</strong> the city, a major frontier post <strong>of</strong> the KhmerEmpire, and established it as their capital in 1238. The firstking’s son, Ramkhamhaeng, ascended the throne in 1278 andreigned for forty years. A fine warrior, King Ramkhamhaeng theGreat made <strong>Sukhothai</strong> a powerful and extensive kingdom whichincluded many parts <strong>of</strong> what are today neighbouring countries.King Ramkhamhaeng the Great opened direct political relationswith China and made two trips there, from which he broughtback Chinese artisans who taught the Thai fine pottery techniques,resulting in the famous Sawankhalok ceramics. A majorachievement <strong>of</strong> his reign was the revision <strong>of</strong> various forms <strong>of</strong>the Khmer alphabet into a system suitable for the writing <strong>of</strong>Thai. The alphabet that the king invented in 1283 is essentiallythe same that is used today.King Ramkhamhaeng the Great’s reign is noted for prosperityand happiness, as recorded in a stone inscription well-known toThais.“This realm <strong>of</strong> <strong>Sukhothai</strong> is good. In the water there are fish;in the fields there is rice. The ruler does not levy a tax on thepeople who travel along the road together, leading their oxenWat Chang LomWat Phra Si Rattana Mahathaton the way to trade and riding their horses on the way to sell.Whoever wants to trade in elephants, so trades. Whoever wantsto trade in horses, so trades. Whoever wants to trade in silverand gold, so trades.”King Ramkhamhaeng the Great also promoted religion andculture, and through his efforts Buddhism progressed among thepeople. Inspirational faith gave birth to classic forms <strong>of</strong> Thai religiousart. Images <strong>of</strong> the Buddha sculpted during the <strong>Sukhothai</strong>era are cultural treasures which impart a feeling <strong>of</strong> peace andserenity. Eight kings ruled <strong>Sukhothai</strong>, whose gradual declineoccurred during the last two reigns. The end <strong>of</strong> the first Thaikingdom came in 1365 when it was reduced to a vassal state byAyutthaya, a young and rising Thai power to the south, whichbecame the capital for four centuries, succeeded by Bangkok.<strong>Sukhothai</strong> Historical ParkThe Park is located 12 km. from <strong>Sukhothai</strong> town on the TakHighway; open daily 8.30 a.m.-4.30 p.m.; admission 40 baht.
14 15Bicycles can be rented for touring the ruins. The Park’s TouristService Centre (Tel: 0 5569 7310) provides information anddisplays models <strong>of</strong> historical buildings and structures <strong>of</strong> the old<strong>Sukhothai</strong>. Lying over an extensive area, ruins <strong>of</strong> the royal palaces,Buddhist temples, city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches,ponds, canals and the water dyke control system are preserved,with major restoration by the Fine Arts Department in cooperationwith UNESCO.Inside the City WallsThe core city was surrounded by walls and earthen ramparts;this forms the centre <strong>of</strong> the historical park. It was rectangular,1,300 m. by 1,800 m., with four gates. A stone inscriptionrecords that King Ramkhamhaeng the Great set up a bell at one<strong>of</strong> the gates. If his subjects needed help, they could ring the belland the king would come out to settle disputes and dispensejustice. Within the walls are the remains <strong>of</strong> 35 structures. Themost notable are described as follows:Royal Palace and Wat MahathatThe Royal Palace lies in the centre <strong>of</strong> the city, surrounded bya moat and contains two main compounds: the royal residenceand the royal sanctuary. Here, the famous stone inscription <strong>of</strong>King Ramkhamhaeng the Great was found by King Mongkut(Rama IV) in the 19 th century together with part <strong>of</strong> the stonethrone called Manangkhasila-at. King Ramkhamhaeng the Greatset up a throne in the midst <strong>of</strong> a sugar-palm grove where, at hisrequest, a monk preached on Buddhist holy days and the kingconducted the affairs <strong>of</strong> state on other days. This throne waslater installed in Bangkok’s Temple <strong>of</strong> the Emerald Buddha.Lying west <strong>of</strong> the Royal Palace compound is Wat Mahathat, theWat MahathatWat Mahathat