Vol 31 No 3 - Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs

Walk Safely—Walk with a Clubwonderful experience. As we crested a risethere was a flock of vultures – maybe 40all, basking in the sun. With our approachthey took fright and, as one, made to takeoff. None of us were quick enough to readycameras and capture the moment when 40two-metre wing spans opened simultaneouslyand 40 pairs of legs ran as one, liftingthe flock into space with all the majestyof a single giant creature. We were too late:our photos just show a scattering of blackdots disappearing across the valley intoSpain. Next time….A now solitary oak of huge size providedwelcome shade for lunch, with a viewnorth down a valley full of villages and thetown of Bidarray. With lunch consumed Iwas overcome with a compelling desire toshut my eyes and take forty winks. Cruelly,I was awakened 30 minutes later by my cowalkers,each trying to get a better pictureof me prone and completely out to it!The 4th walk was to the Sommet d’Occabe.It is one of the classic Pays Basque walkswith extensive views of the Foret d’Iraty– one of the largest areas of old growthforest in the area. We parked at the Colde Burdinkurutxeta at 1135 m. Conditionswere calm as we climbed the 90 m to thetop of yet another col with views stretchingfor tens of kilometres. In the foregroundwas a deeply incised valley with serriedsheer limestone cliffs defining the deepergorges. This was the kind of topographyI had wanted to see. Immediately belowa jagged sequence of ridges begged to beclimbed. What a shame that was not ouragenda.We pressed on to the Col de Sourzay. Fromhere it was a steady climb through the forestto the Cromlechs d’Occabe (1382 m).Numerous great circles of stone stretchalong the open meadow-like crest of thismountain. Presumed to be burial groundsof an ancient people there is evidence oflatter day archaeologists probing to findwhether each is a single grave or whetherthey were communal. Whatever thepurpose, their position is indisputable,commanding a huge vista deep into theNavarra of Spain as well as the more immediateareas in France. Where the stone | The Bushwalkercircles begin there were markers for theGR 10 (Grande Route 10), and we encounteredmany walkers. Some were talkativeand many had the goal of walking the fulllength of the route.Lunch on a rocky ridge with a view overthe Iraty Forest was a singular experience.I felt with the walk today that I had juststarted to get into the Pyrenees and the realwalking experiences that it offered. Afterlunch it was time to start our descent viathe GR 10 and several small settlements.The frequent small mounds where therewas any depth of soil were mole-hills. Youlearn something every day.Down the track we entered a beech forestwhere the tree cover had eliminated theunder-story. Further on we entered an oakforest with an under-story of low growingbox giving the impression of a false forestfloor half a metre abovethe ground. Out of the forestand in cleared areasprostate yellow floweringpea like plants carpeted theground.The hot humid conditionsthat prompted my sleepon the last walk were stillwith us. As soon as I saw astream I thought of a swim.The theory was great, thereality was oh so different.When we found a bigenough stream it was sopolluted with animal faecalmaterial that the thoughtwas banished. Swimmablewater was fencedoff, owned by a hotel andcamping reserve.Like the rest of us I had tosettle for a cooling CitronPresse in a small local bar.It was a strange place withodd people coming andgoing. It was as if we hadstumbled across a cell ofsome underground organizationplanning a diabolicalplot. Well, we were inthe Basque country.Two of us went with Bob tocollect the car. Essentially we walked up asmall creek, known as the BurdincurchetakoErreka. Not only is this very beautifulit is also a gazetted nature reserve. We hadthe area to ourselves. As we crossed andre-crossed the creek we found the densestpopulation of tadpoles I have ever seen. Inthe photo I took there would be at least 200individuals. Further on a brilliant emeralddamson fly rested for me to capture its image.Looking up after hearing a noise wespied a young deer moving through thewoods. If that was not enough, a hillsideahead was purple in colour. Yes it was real.It was a solid carpet of a heather-like plantin full flower.On reaching the vehicle Bob drove it a littleto the west so we could see a geomorphologicalstructure called the ‘dinosaur’:an exposed 2 km long limestone ridge withthe crest called Pic de Behorleguy. It isalso climbable. Rejoining the rest of theparty we could not help ourselves in makingthem feel they had really missed out onnot walking with us.The four walks described are a summaryof the experience I had of the Pyrenees. IfI have the opportunity to go again I wouldwant to pack walk and definitely opt formore rugged terrain.y a r a a n d o oeco-lodge and function centreIdeal for groups, overnight travellersand families.Attractions and Facilities Include –• The only pair of breeding Masked Owls in captivity• A Wildlife Sanctuary for endangered mammals• Spot lighting to observe native animals at night• Over 8kms of graded onsite bushwalks• Licenced restaurant and conference facilities• Full range of accommodation styles available.Located at Point Lookout, off the Waterfall Way,via Armidale, NSW.Situated amongst World Heritage-Listed New EnglandNational Park and Cathedral Rocks National Park.yaraandoo Phone: 02 6775 9219 Fax: 02 6775 9216Email: enquiries@yaraandoo.com.auw w w. y a r a a n d o o. c o m . a uVol31 Issue 3, Winter 2006