The Basic Methods of Pearl Farming: A Layman's Manual - CTSA

Basic Methods of Pearl Farming“Black” pearls vary considerably in color.Most pearls produced by Black-Lip pearl oysters will be dark gray or black with an iridescent quality. Itis the iridescent colors of the pearl that increases its value. There should be undertones of blue, green,purple (eggplant) or silver. Predominantly blue-green colors with hints of other colors (the term “peacock”refers to having all colors present) are considered most valuable. Pearls are always examinedand graded in natural sunlight so that the subtle colors can best be seen.The color of the pearls grafted by a technician can tell you a lot about his or her skill. If a highpercentage of the pearls are silver-white, yellow or orange, it may mean that the technician was notcareful in selecting mantle tissue that produced the best nacre quality. Pearls of these colors have amuch lower value than darker colors. However, even the best technicians will produce pearls with awide variety of colors.Pearl shapes are generally classified as round, semi-round, circlé, or baroque.Round pearls are completely round on all sides, while semi-rounds may have slightly flattened orbulging surfaces. Round pearls will sell for the highest price and the number of round pearls producedby a technician is a sign of his or her skill. Baroque pearls are pearls with any shape other round andalthough not considered as high quality can still be valuable if of otherwise good quality. Circlés arethe baroque pearls that have circular grooves running around the outside of the pearl.The luster and orient of a pearl are classified by the way in which the surface of apearl reflects light.A high quality pearl with good luster reflects light well, while a poor quality pearl is dull or chalky. Themost lustrous pearls have a finish that is mirror-like. The orient refers to the way the light enters thesemi-transparent nacre and is refracted outwards. This gives an appearance of depth to the pearl.Pearls with thin nacre will usually be betrayed by poor luster and orient.The surface of a pearl should be smooth and without flaws.Pearls are often flawed with a variety of bumps, pits and spots that reduce its value. If there are only oneor two small flaws that can be hidden when the pearl is made into jewelry, it still may be rated as aGrade A pearl, but more flaws will definitely reduce its grade.The most important thing to understand about selling your pearls is that not allpearls can or will be sold.While a rating of “commercial” or “C+” is awarded to the lowest quality marketable pearl, often themajority of a farmer’s production cannot even meet this standard and thus cannot be sold. Therefore,since it takes only one mistake to ruin an otherwise perfect pearl, doing even the smallest tasks correctlyis extremely important to the success of your business.Page 64