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Reconciling Nature and Culture in a Global Context? - Rainforest ...

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S<strong>and</strong>ra Pannellru<strong>in</strong>s to symbolise Macau not just as a World Heritage site, but as an area <strong>in</strong> its own right.For example, at the open<strong>in</strong>g ceremony of the 4 th East Asia Games on the 29 October 2005,an illum<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>and</strong> larger-than-life reproduction of St Paul’s Ru<strong>in</strong>s formed the centrepiece ofthe celebrations <strong>and</strong> ‘the dazzl<strong>in</strong>g displays” (Macau Sunday Morn<strong>in</strong>g Post 30 October 2005).Notwithst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g the religious history of the ru<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> present-day signs rem<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g visitors ofthis association, it is clear that this Catholic edifice has been secularised <strong>in</strong> the service of theMacau tourism <strong>in</strong>dustry. It thus represents a form of ‘neutral’ urban space, stripped of thetraditional conventions <strong>and</strong> observances associated with the h<strong>and</strong>ful of ‘work<strong>in</strong>g’ churches<strong>and</strong> chapels with<strong>in</strong> the World Heritage area. While some of these churches still function asplaces of worship, most have been transformed <strong>in</strong>to religious museums <strong>and</strong> touristattractions (Figure 17). This apparent secularisation of religious places is perhaps areflection of the fact that today less than five percent of the 490,000 people who <strong>in</strong>habit thepen<strong>in</strong>sula identify as Catholics (Macau Government Tourist Office 2002). The Catholiclegacy of the Portuguese is thus more readily apparent <strong>in</strong> the many heritage classifiedchapels <strong>and</strong> churches that comprise the Historic Centre of Macau, than it is <strong>in</strong> thecontemporary religious observances of the local population.While the Macau Government Tourist Office identifies the Historic Centre of Macau as a“liv<strong>in</strong>g representation of the city’s historic settlement” (Macau Government Tourist Office2005: 2), this representation is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by a monument-based vision of cultural heritage.This focus upon ‘qua<strong>in</strong>t old build<strong>in</strong>gs’ functions to distract visitors to the Historic Centre fromquestion<strong>in</strong>g or pursu<strong>in</strong>g the other histories hidden beh<strong>in</strong>d these facades. Like so many otherlisted historic centres, Macau “offers the perfection of the restoration as a remedy for theimperfections of the past” (Kirshenblatt-Gimblett 1998: 9).While not a ‘historic centre’ itself, recent events at the World Heritage site of Stonehengeepitomise the way restoration, driven by ideas about authenticity <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>tegrity, attempts toconceal the imperfections of the past. Listed <strong>in</strong> 1986, the megaliths of Stonehenge <strong>and</strong>Avebury, together with a number of associated Neolithic sites, are surrounded by theaccretions of more than five thous<strong>and</strong> years of human history. Over the centuries, some ofthe stones of the Stonehenge monument have fallen down, others have been carried away tobe used for build<strong>in</strong>g purposes or to repair farm tracks, while visitors to the site have effectedtheir own modifications. As stated on the English Heritage website, <strong>in</strong> the recent past “it wasquite normal to hire a hammer from the blacksmith <strong>in</strong> Amesbury <strong>and</strong> come to Stonehenge tochip bits off”. A similar fate befell the stones compris<strong>in</strong>g the circle of Avebury. Many of thesestones were broken down dur<strong>in</strong>g the seventeenth century to use as build<strong>in</strong>g materials for theexpansion of the village. As these observations <strong>in</strong>dicate, the material forms we identify asStonehenge <strong>and</strong> Avebury today are the products of quite varied historical use. This usereflects the shift<strong>in</strong>g significance accorded these two stone complexes by local communities <strong>in</strong>the past. It also reflects the fact that the idea of heritage, <strong>and</strong> the associated ethos ofpreservation, is a recent phenomenon. As Lord Chorley, Chairman of The National Trust forPlaces of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, observes:Until the twentieth century, the survival of these monuments [Brita<strong>in</strong>’s WorldHeritage sites] <strong>in</strong> the face of Vik<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>vasions, civil war, enemy bombardment,periods of rapid <strong>in</strong>dustrial development <strong>and</strong> profound demographic change,has been largely a matter of chance (1992: 356).Perhaps nowhere else <strong>in</strong> the United K<strong>in</strong>gdom is this observation most apparent than atStonehenge (Figure 18a). Today, Stonehenge st<strong>and</strong>s <strong>in</strong> a sheep paddock criss-crossed withfences <strong>and</strong> hemmed <strong>in</strong> by two major roads, the A303 <strong>and</strong> the A344 (Figure 18b), while thestone circle of Avebury is enclosed with<strong>in</strong> a village dat<strong>in</strong>g back to Saxon times, <strong>and</strong> likeStonehenge, is surrounded by roads <strong>and</strong> traffic. In 1993, the British Parliament’s House ofCommons Public Accounts Committee described the situation at Stonehenge as ‘a nationaldisgrace’. Respond<strong>in</strong>g to political outcry <strong>and</strong> public concern, the 2000 Stonehenge World54

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