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Getting The Best From Your Engine 2012 - Tal-Ko

Getting The Best From Your Engine 2012 - Tal-Ko

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<strong>Getting</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Best</strong> <strong>From</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Engine</strong>Spark Plug<strong>The</strong> plug fitted to your engine should be capableof very long life. It is a high performance NGKCR10EIX plug for normal weather conditions.<strong>The</strong> other plugs that can be used in this engineare CR8EIX (very cold condition) & CR9EIX(cold to normal condition) & DENSO U34ES-NZU for very hot conditions. All use a gap of0.026” Only use fingers to re-enter plug backinto its thread to avoid cross threading anddamage and then tighten with plug spanner.Coolant/TemperatureIt is important to ensure that your engine isalways up to a working temperature beforebeing driven hard. We recommend that it shouldbe at a minimum of 50C before hard usage andideally 60C. You should not normally run theengine past 85C, using tank tape on the radiatoror an adjustable blind to achieve correctmonitoring of the temperature on the track. If theengine temp goes to 95C on the track youshould pull off and investigate the cause.Please note that in extreme hot weather weadvise that you only warm engine to 40Cbefore racing with no tape on radiator. Alsoa summer coolant is recommended and theuse of a colder spark plug DENSO U34ES-NZU.Note that above approximately 85c it is likelythat small quantities of fluid may be sent out intothe radiator catch-tank. <strong>The</strong>se can be pouredback in afterwards. Always ensure that the fluidlevel is just above the radiator core. Note that ifthe level is low you may well get sudden largeup and down changes in temperature showingon your temp gauge. You will need to refill theradiator just past the top core immediately.When starting the engine from cold the best andquickest way to warm it up is to start the engineand leave it ticking over. Keep a close eye onthe temperature gauge and switch off or drive assoon as it reaches 50C – 60C. In extreme hotweather the use of the optional Enduro styleradiator can be used if unable to keep tempbelow 90C.Enduro RadiatorIn very hot weather or warm climate countrieswe advise use of the Enduro style radiatorsystem. This comprises of a larger radiator fittedto the brake side of kart. <strong>Tal</strong>-<strong>Ko</strong> supplies the fullkit which includes radiator, pipes and mountingbrackets. <strong>The</strong> use of an inline thermostat is alsoadvised with this radiator. This is an extra to thekit.<strong>The</strong> photograph shows a radiator fitted to kart.Noise Box & Air Filters<strong>The</strong> noise box must always be in place. <strong>From</strong>time to time you should unclip the two air inletfilters and wash through in petrol or similarbefore drying and refitting. <strong>The</strong>se filters mustalways be in place and will upset the carburationif not fitted. <strong>The</strong> fitting of cable ties around theO/D diameter of the filters is recommended.GearingAlthough the engine has an absolute rev limit of11950rpm you will probably find that for bestpower you do not need to go much above11450rpm. <strong>The</strong> engine has large amounts oftorque and power right through the rev rangefrom the point where the clutch bites so do notwaste this excellent feature of the engine. Youmay find that by taking teeth off you will actuallygo quicker and reduce your lap times. <strong>The</strong>engine is fitted as standard with a 12 toothclutch sprocket. A good starting point for gearingis 12: 68.Rev LimiterThis is set to operate at 11950rpm but is a ‘soft’limiter so you may not even realise that it isworking. All that happens is that the engine willnot rev above 11950rpm but it does not cut out.We advise you not to run for any length of timewith the limiter operating. Always start with smallaxle sprockets to establish correct RPMs andthen increase or decrease as required. Fortracks with long straights we advise the use of a13 tooth clutch sprocket.1


ClutchThis specially designed unit has been made withlong life in mind. It will give many hours ofreliable use so long as it is not ill-treated. <strong>The</strong>most common cause of premature clutch failureis adjustment of the tickover so that the clutch isengaged when at standstill. Also revving theengine while the rear wheels of the kart are onthe ground with the kart stationery and the brakeon. It is possible to change the drive sprocketfitted to the clutch drum. Available in 12 Tooth or13 Tooth. Special tools are available for thechanging of clutch sprocket. It is recommendedthat every 15 hours of use that a small amountof grease (not copper grease) is put on thesprocket roller cage.most common cause of premature clutch failureis adjustment of the tickover so that the clutch isengaged when at standstill. Also revving theengine while the rear wheels of the kart are onthe ground with the kart stationery and the brakeon. It is possible to change the drive sprocketfitted to the clutch drum. Available in 12 Tooth or13 Tooth. Special tools are available for thechanging of clutch sprocket. It is recommendedthat every 15 hours of use that a small amountof grease (not copper grease) is put on thesprocket roller cage.Cold StartingWhenever starting the engine from cold after ithas been left standing for a day or more westrongly recommend that you spin it over 2 or 3short 2 second periods with the ignition off sothat the oil system is fully primed. This will helpprevent cold start wear – the most commoncause of engine wear. Always use the choke outfully for initial cold starting.<strong>Engine</strong> Seal<strong>Your</strong> engine is fitted with a unique TKM seal.This seal must only be removed by <strong>Tal</strong>-<strong>Ko</strong>. If atany time the seal is broken you will not beallowed to race and the engine must be returnedto <strong>Tal</strong>-<strong>Ko</strong> for checking and re-sealing at yourcost. MSA scrutineers are NOT permitted tobreak the seal or re-seal an engine. Any enginewhich in the opinion of scrutineers needschecking must be sealed by the scrutineers andtaken to the <strong>Tal</strong>-<strong>Ko</strong> factory for checking.must be carried out by <strong>Tal</strong>-<strong>Ko</strong> and will berecorded.In between factory servicing you arerecommended to change the oil every two hoursand to regularly check oil and coolant levels.<strong>The</strong> oil filter should also be regularly checkedand cleaned every 10 hours.It is permitted for others to carry out operationswhich do not require removal of the seal, suchas clutch checking, replacement of the driveclutch sprocket and minor alterations to the carbsettings within regulations.What You Must Not DoStart the engine without circulating the oil firstwith ignition turned off if engine has been leftstanding for more than 2 hours.Leave the engine ticking over with the choke outfor long periods – it will cause piston and borewear.Rev the engine while standing still – prematureclutch wear and overheating will result.Run the engine without having the correct levelsof coolant or oil – severe engine damage couldresult.Rev and race the engine hard when the enginetemperature is below 40C – this causesexcessive wear and possible piston seizure.Run the engine on the track at over 95C –overheating and possible damage may result.Run the engine at maximum revs with the revlimiter in operation for any length of time.Fail to change the oil every 2 hours – excesswear may occur.Fail to adhere to karting safety warnings at thefront of this publication.ServicingBetween 5-10 hours you may return your engineto TKM for a first inspection service which iscarried out free of charge (other than anycourier costs and consumable parts)At 80 -100 hours it is recommended that theengine has a full strip and rebuild. This must becarried out by the <strong>Tal</strong>-<strong>Ko</strong> factory.Naturally, you may if you wish, have your engineserviced at more frequent intervals. All services2

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