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DirectionsWINTER 2013Keeping New Zealanders MovingWHYWE LOVEWINTERwww.aadirections.co.nzWINA WARMINGWEEKENDAWAY!

UNIQUE EXPEDITIONSINTO AUSTRALIA’S OUTBACKCAPE YORK13 DAYS $9,395 Departs May to Sep 2013Thursday 1Island 2 Bamaga2 MoretonTelegraph StationWeipa 1EAST COAST12 days $7,995Departs 2 Oct 2013OUTSTANDING VALUEINCLUSIONS✔ Travel in Small Groups✔ Multi Award winningtour operator✔ Exclusive WildernessLodges, Hotels and Resorts✔ Fully inclusive, includingall meals✔ 5 star All Terrain MercedesBenz coach travel✔ Expert tour guides✔ Eco Certified✔ Special IndigenousPartnership in the KimberleyLotusBirdLodge 2Cooktown1Cape Tribibulaulatioion 1QLD ns2newand exclusive attractions for 2013!www.outbackspirittours.com.au2Port Douglas1 CairnsTownsville 12 Hayman IslandNSW1Rockhampton1Gold CoastTravel from Sydney to Cairns alongHIGHLIGHTS: Spend 1 night onHayman Island in the WhitsundaysQLD2SydneyFraser Island1Coffs Harbour

Specialists in escortedoutback travelTHE KIMBERLEY15 DAYS $10,295 Frequent departures May to Sep 2013new for 2013Derby 12BroomeNgauauwuwuduSafari CampMitctchehellPlalateteau21 2 1DrysdaleEl QueuesttroRiver Station2FitztzroroyCrossising1WAMorningtonWildlifeSanctuaryKunu nurrrrar2BungngleBunglesTHE PILBARA12 days $7,695Departs May to Sep 2013WILDFLOWERS15 days $7,195Departs Sep & Oct 2013CENTRAL AUSTRALIA15 days $8,895Departs May to Sep 2013TASMANIA12 days $6,895Departs Oct & Nov 2013Port HedlandKarrathaExmouth11 21Karijini11 Monkey MiaCarnarvon1Broome 11Geraldton1PerthNewman1GeraldtonMonkey MiaWAKalbarri 111Hyden311111 2PerthFremantleMargaret RiverPemberton AlbanyKalgoorlieEsperanceDarwin 1Mataararanka 1CapeCrawford 2TennantCreeeek 1NTKings Canyon1Alice SpringsUluru2 3 SACoober Pedy1 1MarreePortAugustausta1AdelaidaideSmithton122StrahanCradleMountain1 LauncestonTASHobart 31Port Arthur1FreycinetNationalParkTravel the west coast from Perth to Broomeand explore the rugged and expansiveBroome at the Cable Beach Club Resortsingle pit open cut iron ore mine in the worldPerth and the South West during the timewhen hundreds of varieties of Wildfl owersand much moreSilence dining experience and astronomy tourFREE CALL 0800 805 265For your comprehensive brochure & DVDon this new and comprehensive tour.River and ride the West Coast Wilderness

The Poynton7 Saint VincentHillsborough Heights VillageOakridge VillasHibiscus Coast VillagePinesongCrestwoodPowleyWaitakere GardensHighlandsPakuranga VillageDannemora GardensLongford Park VillageCoastal VillasKapiti VillageThe AvenuesBayswaterGreenwood ParkSomervalePapamoa Beach VillageForest Lake GardensPalmerston North VillageWairarapa Village23 great locations.Miles from ordinary.Metlifecare offers exceptional retirement living in twenty three villages around theNorth Island. They are home to the kind of Kiwi communities we remember from years past –caring, supportive and a whole lot of fun. The quality living options are the perfect place to callhome and we have a great bunch of staff that will help you make the most of every single day.RHM6196REQUEST AN INFORMATION PACKCall 0800 909 303or go to www.metlifecare.co.nz/info-pack

11 21 4270 72 79ContentsIN EVERY ISSUE7 Chief Executive’s Editorial8 Letters10 CompassA chat with one of NZ’s biggest filmbuffs, cool winter exhibitions,Fly My Pretties tickets, and moreFEATURE21 We Love Winter COVER STORYFrom frozen lakes to hot springs, cosy pubsand slow-cooked stews – we’ve got plentyof reasons to embrace the chilly seasonDRIVER40 Risky BusinessThe truth about rental car insurance42 American DreamsA classic car collector shares his obsession46 Ticket to RideTake your wheels around the world witha Carnet de PassageTRAVELLER56 Southern SplendourRoad tripping on the dramatic SouthernScenic Route64 Cuba ChallengeA weekend on Wellington’s coolest street66 Sail AwayCruising in style across the Tasman, andfollowing the waterways from Antwerp toAmsterdamMY AAWinter 201379 Fix-It ManWe chat about chips with an expert80 My AAWinter travel tips, Member benefitsand Association updateswww.aadirections.co.nz 5

Over 50 stores now open in New Zealand.Visit specsavers.co.nz to find out more.ProudPartners^Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. See in-store leaflet for full details. Offer ends 31st October 2013. *Free exam applies to standard eye examinations only, normally valued at $60. Limited to one perAA Member every two years. Available to current AA Members upon presentation of AA Membership card, subject to appointment availability. © 2013 Specsavers Optical Group • McCANN_SPE2519.

LETTERSOPINION POLLIn the autumn issue of AA Directionswe asked: Do you support roadsidetesting for drugged drivers?EYES SAVE LIVESThank you to the AA for extendingthe offer of free Specsavers eye teststo Members every two years.I visited my local Specsavers StLukes store to get what I expectedwould be a routine eye test. Theoptometrist immediately referred meto a specialist and within a matterof days I was having surgery for abrain tumour!I simply could not believe that thiswas happening to me and that aneye test was the red flag that savedmy life.I am urging all of your readers totake up the free eye test offer – evenif they don’t think they need it.A big thank you to the AA and toSpecsavers.MARIE STRINGER – AUCKLANDELECTRICAL SAFETYI see that you have bought intothe story that electric cars are notsafe for pedestrians. Commonobservation shows that the modernpetrol car is also silent, and thatthe noise you hear comes from thetyres when the car is moving quicklyenough. So, why pick on electriccars? They are at least twice asenergy efficient as the best oil-fueldriven cars, so we should be pushingfor their acceptance – especially inNew Zealand.W N TUCKER – AUCKLAND97%YES3%NOThis issue’s poll question: Do youthink private parking operators shouldbe allowed to set their own fines?To vote, go to www.aadirections.co.nzREFRESH YOURSELFEighteen months ago I had amotorcycle crash and spent threemonths recuperating. Since thattime, I haven’t been allowed to drive.The ACC has been fantastic withcare – the latest help has been fivedriver training sessions. Hopefully,I will soon be allowed behind thesteering wheel again.I think it is an excellent idea forall drivers to undergo a refresherdriving course. Relearn the roadrules. As we get older, we get blaséabout our driving habits.TED GREENWOOD – WHANGAREIVIEW FROM BEHINDWhy don’t cyclists use rear visionmirrors? Cars, trucks, motor scooters,motorbikes and even mobilityscooters have them. Why notbicycles?JAMES MARX – PAPAMOAFACE FIRSTI would like to suggest that wherethere are cycle lanes, cyclists usethe right hand side of the road,so that they are facing oncomingtraffic. They would not have vehiclesdriving up behind them nor woulddrivers open their car doors withoutseeing them, as the cycle trafficwould be facing them. This seems amuch safer option.ISOBEL SHADBOLT – NAPIERDUNG DILEMMAI would like to alert AA Members tothe possible dangers of passing stocktrucks on bends.While travelling on SH3 fromWanganui, I followed a stock truckand trailer. As I moved into a passinglane to overtake, doing 100 km/h, mywindscreen was blasted with effluent.The shock paralysed me for a splitsecond, but I activated the wipersand found myself heading intooncoming traffic. I can only say that Iavoided being killed due to my pastPolice driver’s training.I reported the details to thePolice, but they did not take action.I reported to the truck’s dispatcherand was informed that it’s anongoing problem. Trucks have nomeans of dumping effluent betweenPalmerston North and Feilding. Incases where a truck’s holding tank isfull, there is the risk, when travellingfast around sharp bends, thateffluent can be thrown out.I believe it is a design fault.Measures need to be taken urgentlyby the stock transport industry torectify the problem.TONY WARD – PALMERSTON NORTHWe welcome feedback and views on articles in AA Directions, and on any issues affecting motorists. Because of the volume of mail we receive,letters cannot be personally acknowledged. Only a selection can be published and they may be edited or abbreviated for print.WRITE TO: The Editor, AA Directions, PO Box 5, Auckland, 1140 or email editor@aa.co.nzwww.aadirections.co.nz 9

COMPASSQ&AFor almost 20 years Ant Timpson has been the brains behind theIncredibly Strange Film Festival. We caught up with New Zealand’ssultan of crazy, cult cinema to find out what terrors are being unleashedthis year and why people are drawn to these bizarre filmsWhat is the Incredibly StrangeFilm Festival all about?It’s a big screen ode to my cinematicpsyche and a platform that allowsme to expose incredible newgenrecinema to New Zealandaudiences. I’m very grateful to theNZ International Film Festival forallowing me my section to cut loose in.How did the festival start?It started in April 1994, as an excuseto watch cult films with my friends.The response from day one wasoverwhelming.What is your curation process?These days the line-up is 99% newmaterial and this is sourced froma network of film spies around theworld. I also attend high-profilefestivals to see the films that arecausing a ruckus on the circuit.I watch around 200 films to getdown to the 10 programmed.What qualifies a film as‘strange’?Well ‘strange’ in the context of‘Incredibly Strange’ is just a wayto explain things that fall outsidethe mainstream. It might not evenapply to some of the films that screenin my programme anymore. It’smore a reflection of the influencesthat shape many of the films I’minterested in.How did you become a fanof these movies?There was no defining moment.At heart I love all cinema – this is justone area I’m intensely passionateabout. But I could happily programmea section on spaghetti westerns,noir, biblical epics or sport films.I grew up going to the CrystalPalace in Mt Eden in Auckland andattended every type of film over theyears. I think once you sip the madgenius of an Ed Wood film at an earlyage, it weaves a spell that is neverbroken. I’m glad to say I’m still underthat spell.“If you come awaywith one image from afilm that you’ll neverforget, then that is animportant film to me.”What is it about these strangefilms that people like?The new films are the most excitingfilms on the film festival circuit.They’re films that have wowedcritics and audiences at Sundanceand Cannes Film Festivals.Often they’re transgressive piecesof cinema, breaking new ground,offering glimpses to a cinematic worldthat we haven’t seen before. If youcome away with one image from afilm that you’ll never forget, then thatis an important film to me.What can moviegoers expectfrom this year’s festival?The unexpected. People who attendone of the films I’ve programmedshould know that I’ve been movedby the film and I want them to bemoved, too. I want them talkingabout it to friends the next week.I’ve programmed films that willterrify, others that make you think,and a couple that will make youstand up and cheer.What advice would you givesomeone just starting to diptheir toes into this strangecinematic world?Respect your elders. Start off with theseall-time classic, incredibly strangefilms and then expand out from thereto other far reaches of the cineverse:Eraserhead, El Topo, Plan 9 FromOuterspace and Pink Flamingoes.What is your favourite strangefilm of all time and why?That’s a Sophie’s Choice question.to me. ←The Incredibly Strange Film Festival isscreening nationally throughout winteras part of the New Zealand InternationalFilm Festival programme. Check www.nzff.co.nz to find dates for your region.PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSIE CASSON10 AA Directions Winter 2013

GOODCALLAgeingGracefullyIt has been 60 years since dancers from theRoyal New Zealand Ballet first leaped on tothe stage, and the company is celebratingthe special birthday in signature style.A nationwide tour of classical favourite,Swan Lake, will be the centrepiece of the RNZB’sanniversary festivities – a production createdby two celebrated New Zealand icons that havemade important contributions to New Zealandballet over the years.Russell Kerr’s impeccable choreographywill be accompanied by extravagant costumesand spectacular sets designed by the lateKristian Fredrikson. Bringing Tchaikovsky’ssweeping score to life are the New ZealandSymphony Orchestra, the ChristchurchSymphony Orchestra and the AucklandPhilharmonia Orchestra.The tragic tale of Odette, a princess turnedinto a swan by an evil sorcerer’s curse, will beperformed at eight centres around the country,opening at Wellington’s St James theatre onJuly 18.→Visit www.nzballet.org.nz for dates, venuesand tickets.Since launching in 2009, the Starship Mobile PhoneAppeal has collected over 700,000 phones, which havebeen refurbished and on-sold to third world countries.AA Members have played their part, sending more than30,000 unwanted mobile phones in envelopes sent outwith AA Directions.And it’s not just about the money. Although over$2 million has been raised for the Starship National AirAmbulance Service, collecting old mobiles also has apositive environmental impact. The Starship Foundation,together with its recycling partner, Swapkit NZ, hasrecycled over 30 tonnes of end-of-life phones, effectivelyhelping to keep New Zealand landfills free of hazardoustoxic substances.→www.starship.org.nz/phonesHUNGRY?Just ask KIWIThe fastest way to Find restaurants, cafesaccommodation and bars around New Zealandwww.kiwihospitality.co.nzKIWIHospitalitywww.aadirections.co.nz 13

COMPASSTROUBLE INPARADISEIndian Ink Theatre Company, bestknownfor its long-running hit playKrishnan’s Dairy, returns to the stagethis winter with a new production.Kiss the Fish tells the story ofSidu, who can’t wait to escape thetropical island paradise where helives. Trapped in a life that is tooslow, he yearns to be the next FreddieMercury. But an eco resort being builton the island threatens his family’straditional way of life and Sidu mustconsider his options.Using Indian Ink’s signaturecombination of pathos and humour,writers Jacob Rajan and Justin Lewishave crafted a work about dreams –dreams of happiness and dreams forthe future.Kiss the Fish is Indian Ink’s firstproduction since 2010’s The Guru ofChai. It will play in Hamilton fromAugust 10 to September 7 (bookingsvia www.ticketek.com) and inAuckland September 15 to October 5(www.qtheatre.com).Local LINGO“Too right, I’m a box of birds.Everything’s ka pai.”Yup, it’s not only our accentthat gives our nationality away– the Kiwi vocabulary is alsodistinctive. From pre-settlertimes, New Zealand Englishhas evolved into somethingunique, with words, sayingsand phrases likely to causecomplete bewilderment whenspoken to foreigners.Book of New Zealand Words,by lexicographer DianneBardsley, is a compilationof our unique expressions. From every period in ourhistory and every walk of life, the book is a storehouseof facts about New Zealand’s society, culture and history,revealed through our language. And it’s also beautiful,with illustrations by artist John Reynolds.Water rightsThis is the year of International Water Cooperation– a United Nations campaign to raise awarenessof water management issues and highlight thepotential of cooperative initiatives.One such initiative involves LifeStraw, a waterfilter that removes dirt, disease-causing germs andparasites from water usually considered too unsafeto drink. The personal LifeStraw, which the usersimply sucks through, filters 1000 litres; a largerversion, called LifeStraw Family,filters 18,000 litres – effectivelysupplying enough clean water toa family of five for three years.LifeStraw New Zealandsells these filters in supportof humanitarian aid projects,contributing funds from salesand working with agencies whodonate filters to communities inneed of clean water.→Book of New Zealand Words by Dianne→For details go to www.lifestraw.co.nzBardsley, Te Papa Press (RRP$44.99).www.aadirections.co.nz 15

COMPASSBest in the BusinessThis year’s Cathay Pacific TravComtravel media awards havebeen decided. The 2013 TravelPhotographer of the Year wasawarded to Babiche Martens ofAuckland and the Travel Writer ofthe Year award went to Wellington’sSharon Stephenson.AA Directions supports twocategories of the awards. This year’sNew Travel Writer of the Year Awardwent to Brian Luby of Dunedin, for‘Tunnel, Laughter and Giants’, whichjudge Steve Braunias described asa “witty and thoroughly engagingpiece of writing”.The AA Directions award for theBest Travel Image with People wentto Tessa Chrisp for her image (above)taken on Vanuatu’s Malekula Island,originally published in NZ Life &Leisure magazine.→For details of all awards,see www.travelcommunicators.co.nzDOWNLOADDIRECTIONSThis issue of AA Directions is also availablefor digital download from our website.So, if you’d prefer to peruse on your smartphoneor tablet, simply visit www.aadirections.co.nzto download the PDF file. Simple!18 AA Directions Winter 2013

COMPASSIron ManThree decades of work by one of New Zealand’s best-lovedartists, sculptor Jeff Thomson, are on display in Tauranga.‘The iron man of Australasia’ is known for his trademarkcorrugated iron creations, ranging in size from mailboxesand flower bouquets to a life-sized elephant and Taihape’sgiant gumboot.Corrugations features both private commissions andpublic works, including an iron-clad Morris Minor, chooks,and French knitting.The artist will also install a free-form work in thegallery’s large atrium space.→www.artgallery.org.nzTHE EMPIRESTRIKES BACKApart from sanitation, medicine,education, wine, public order,irrigation, roads, the fresh watersystem and public health, what didthe Romans do for us? A touringexhibition displaying the techniquesand paraphernalia of ancient Romeanswers that question. RomanMachines, currently showingin Palmerston North, includesscale replicas built with materialsavailable during the Roman Empire,and working interactive modelsof machines, including assaultrams and towers, pile drivers andcatapults.Roman Machines is visiting NewZealand as part of its global tou r.It is at Palmerston North’s Te ManawaMuseum of Art, History and Scienceuntil October 6, then moves toSouthland Museum in Invercargill.The Waikato Museum in Hamiltonhosts the show early next year.→www.temanawa.co.nzHairy TALESStar of much-loved children’sbooks, Hairy Maclary, turns 30this year.As his creator, Dame LynleyDodd says: “Hairy’s getting a littlegrey around the whiskers now,but he’s still going strong”.He and his furry friends andfoes have been delightingchildren and their parents sinceHairy Maclary from Donaldson’sDairy was first published, in 1983.Dame Lynley admits she is a littlesurprised at its success.“I never imagined it would gothis long,” she says. “In fact, I neverimagined it would go to a secondbook until my publisher suggested itmight be a good idea.”We asked Dame Lynley about herfavourite New Zealand places – readabout her Top Spot on p.55.To help celebrateHairy’s birthday,we have 10 limitededitionBolinda audiobooks to give away –five each of the HairyMaclary Collectionand Hairy Maclary and Friends.To be in to win, send your name andcontact details to Hairy Maclary, AADirections, PO Box 5, Auckland 1140,or enter online at www.aadirections.co.nz – by August 30.12 AA Directions Winter 2013

txt “urban” ‘Bo’ toto 9090 9090 to get toget your your free FREEBoConceptcatalogueEmail sales@boconcept.co.nz www.boconcept.co.nzAucklandBoConcept At Bloc 20 Normanby Road, Mt. Eden Tel. 09 630 0557 ext1WellingtonBoConcept At The Woolstore 258 Thorndon Quay Tel. 04 499 8885

COMPASSUp, Up & AwayMusical ensemble Fly My Prettieshas always had an idiosyncraticapproach. Under the curatorship ofWellington musician Barnaby Weir,the group is not really what couldbe classed as a traditional band.“The idea with Fly My Prettieswas to try and do somethingspecial,” Barnaby says. “It’s a truecollaboration. It’s a very freeingenvironment and there’s a lot oftrust in the group.”And there needs to be. With anever changing cast of musiciansfluttering in and out of the nest,the group essentially starts fromscratch each ‘season’ – the wordBarnaby uses to describe a tour– as a new collective learns tomusically fly together.And, as Barnaby admits: “Youcan’t know how it’s going to gountil that first night.”This year Barnaby has hatchedwhat could be the most ambitiousFly My Pretties project yet: a22 show season that begins inSeptember at the top of the NorthIsland in Kaitaia and wraps up amonth later in Invercargill.On between days the group willcheck in at places often overlookedby other platinum-selling, multiaward-winning acts – includingDargaville, Kerikeri, Hastings,Westport and Ashburton.While Barnaby is still honing theexact theme of this year’s season,he did tell us that the historicalsignificance of each town the groupvisits will play an integral part ofthe performance, with documentaryfootage taken from the NewZealand Film Archive projectedonto screens behind the musicians.“We want to get their stories intothe show,” he says.→For national tour dates and venuesvisit www.flymypretties.comAA Directions has two Fly My PrettiesVIP experiences to give away. The packincludes a double pass to the show of yourchoice, a meet-and-greet with the band, aFly My Pretties t-shirt and the band’s backcatalogue on CD. To enter online, go towww.aa.directions.co.nz or send your name,contact details and preferred venue to FlyMy Pretties Competition, AA Directions, POBox 5, Auckland 1140. Entries close August30, 2013.PHOTOGRAPHY: SAM HANNAFORD, BIG RIG PRODUCTIONS16 AA Directions Winter 2013

PHOTOGRAPHY: SURFBOARD BY GREG NOLL, PHOTO @ 2011 MUSEUM ASSOCIATES/LACMA. A SEASON IN HELL BY ARTHUR RIMBAUD, © 1945 BY ALVIN LUSTIG. REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF NEW DIRECTIONS PUBLISHING CORPCaliforniaDREAMIN’Aucklanders and visitors to the city can warm upthis winter with a trip to the Auckland Art Gallery,where a hot new exhibition will present a slice ofWest Coast sunshine.California Design, 1930–1965: Living in aModern Way celebrates some of the world’s mosticonic mid-century objects and designs, frombeachwear and textiles to surfboards, jewellery,ceramics, furniture and architecture.Highlights include design icons, such as theworld’s first Barbie doll, a very early Oscarstatuette and fashion, such as classic Levi Strauss& Co. clothing and a 1960s swimsuit by Mary AnnDeWeese. Fans of architecture and interiors willenjoy the photographs of landmark Californianhomes, and furniture by California’s mostcelebrated mid-century designers.→The exhibition will be in Auckland until September 29.Tickets are available from www.eventfinder.co.nz.Switchingyour homeloan to anew lender?Are you put off by the unknowncost and the hassle of having totake time off to see your lawyer tosign documents?SwitchmeSanderson Weirsign and settleAA Identifymedirectly with you Switchme Cost effective, Convenient, CompliantFreephone: 0800 80 79 48

ROAD RAGEIS SO 2012.Helping Hand Technology is here.Stop. Start. Slow down. Speed up. Cut off. Tootedat. After a busy day, you want some clear space onthe way home. The last thing you want to deal withis the constant braking and accelerating, tailgatersand people cutting you off. Honda has a solutionfor these small but niggly things. The all-newAccord has been designed with an amazing suiteof Helping Hand technology, so you enjoy the drivewithout sweating the small stuff.Helping Hand technology means your drivebecomes your time to refresh, wherever you maybe going. speeds up and slows down, and the road weavesthe car through the lane. Once you start to notice,you can see it takes a lot of driving focus to justbe quite irritating. Helping Hand has it sorted.Adaptive Cruise Control looks after your speedand Lane Keep Assist helps you glide along withinyour lane.And if you take your eyes off the road for a second, dramatically or stopped suddenly, Helping Hand’sCollision Mitigation Braking System will get yourattention back to the road, help you brake and getyou back and in control.When you change lanes, you can immediately seeif the next car is giving you room with Lanewatchblind spot camera, displaying the left lane in the 8”central in-dash monitor. headlights to high-beam, and drivers that don’t,makes travel tiresome not to mention annoying.High Beam Headlight Support sorts it, automaticallymanaging high-beam switching when the roadis clear.Helping Hand technology helps take care of thesmall stuff and means you sidestep any road rageto arrive fresh and relaxed.And we’ve also kept the car horn there just in caseyou really want to use it. Get behind the wheel ofthe 2013 Accord today and experience a totallyrefreshing new way to drive.The all-new Accord. By Honda.2.4L from $45,900 + ORC. V6 from $60,000 + ORC. Lease from $656 + GST per month.Book a test drive at honda.co.nz/newaccord, call 0800 534 363 (Mon-Fri) or visit your local Honda agent.Non maintained operating lease for Accord 2.4L S. 45 months/55,000kms. Other terms available. Honda Lease Direct lending criteria apply. Accord is complete with a huge host of features. Full Helping Hand technology is available on NT Models.

FEATUREPHOTOGRAPHY FROM LEFT: J. USSHER, D. GRZELEWSKI, T.CHRISP, ISTOCKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM, PHOTONEWZEALAND.COMWE LOVEWINTERIt‘s easy to forget the joys of winter when it‘sfreezing cold and bucketing down outside.To help combat the winter blues, we‘ve put together thisseasonal scrapbook, which highlights all the things we– and others – love about this most divisive of seasons.www.aadirections.co.nz 21

FEATUREDRIVING INTO SUNSHINEBY DEREK GRZELEWSKIAT THE SOUTHERNLAKES, the change ofseason from autumnto winter heralds thearrival of the dreaded inversionlayer, a low cloud that oppresses thelandscape like a slab of concrete.The phenomenon is caused bythe winter air above being muchcolder than the lake waters, whichstill radiate their stored summerheat, and it usually lasts for a fewweeks. After the exuberance andgolden fire of autumn, this gloomseems to sap all joy out of the land,turning it into a grey void, coldand uninviting.The savvy locals usually taketheir winter escapes to the PacificIslands at this time – you wouldn’twant to escape winter proper, oneof the Lakes’ greatest attractions– and I, too, have done that. But Ihave found an easier and moreimmediate solution, an escape to adifferent kind of island, to combatthis weather-induced melancholy.The inversion layer is only a fewhundred metres thick and, if youdrive up any mountain road – a skifield or an alpine pass – you quicklyget out of the drizzly fog and into themost brilliant sunshine. We take ourpicnics and hiking gear and driveup to spend a few hours in the sun,recharging our inner solar batteriesat an altitude. From up there, theinversion layer is like a white sea,with the mountain peaks protrudingfrom it like an island archipelago.With the sunlit fog blinding like thesurface of a glacier, the views arewhat this land must have lookedlike at the peak of the Ice Age.After soaking up the sun andthe wide-open vistas, we returnto the world of fog, immune to itssombre moods.PHOTOGRAPHY: PHOTO NZ22 AA Directions Winter 2013

FEATUREGAMINGAT G ALBRAITHSBY ALICE GALLETLYAT THE RISK of sounding like a masochist,I really hope it rains on Sunday.Ideally, we’ll be battered by an icy southerlygale – the kind that makes your eyes water –accompanied by crashing thunder and maybeeven a bit of hail. Why? Because those are theperfect conditions for playing my favouritewinter sports.Picking the right venue is crucial. InAuckland, there are few places where I’d feelcomfortable taking my Scrabble board, fewerstill where I’d spread the medieval fantasygame, Dominion, across a table. But, atGalbraith’s Alehouse I’ll happily do either.My friends and I try to get a table near thefire, and I sit with my back to it, so I can seethe room. In a previous life, Galbraith’s was theGrafton Library and it still feels very grand withits high, vaulted ceilings and polished woodpanelling. It reminds me of a much biggerversion of my English Grandmother’s house.Through a glass-walled room you can see thebrewery, and the gentle scent of malt and hopsmingles with Sunday roasts.If there’s ever music playing, I don’t noticeit. It’s usually quiet enough to hear the clack ofScrabble tiles, or the thud of heavy pint glasseson the wooden tables. Mine is always filledwith Bob’s Bitter; the creamy, citrus-scentedcask ale that I call "My Secret Weapon". It’sonly 4% you see, so I can sip it through a fewScrabble matches and still spell the words.To be honest, though, I’m less competitivewhen I play at Galbraith’s. Even if I lose, Ionly have to listen to the rain hammeringthe windows – unable to penetrate this cozywooden fortress – to feel I’ve beat winter atits own game.POWDER HOUNDSBY DEREK GRZELEWSKIEVERY YEAR WE wait for it with an odd mixture ofanticipation: the way drought-stricken land pines for rain,and how children await Christmas. When it does come,unpredictable but unfailing, it refreshes both outer andinner worlds, repainting the mountain landscapes pureand new, sparking excitement and joy in the hearts ofmany, and not just humans.Fresh snow! One of nature’s greatest miracles. Zillionsof tiny falling white stars, each a crystalline gem whenexamined under a magnifying glass, interlacing together,settling silently, promising – and delivering – the ecstasy ofpowder skiing.'Powder' snow is soft like eiderdown and, ideally, atleast knee-deep. It is as elusive and ephemeral as goodsurf. You have to catch it on just the right day and thisoften entails a lot of winter driving, much of it with snowchains on. Winter road closures are one sure sign that thepowder is up.Four years ago, and a year into her puppyhood, myAiredale Maya showed an unusual trait: a mere glimpseof skis and the clang of the planks snapping togetherbrought out in her the same reaction the sight of a huntingrifle stirs up in a gun dog. Uncontainable excitement andreadiness. I could wholeheartedly relate and, so, we’vebecome best ski buddies, together seeking the freshestand deepest snow, like proverbial powder hounds.There is style and aesthetics to skiing fresh snow – howbig the turns, how round and frequent, what path youchoose down the untracked mountain slope – and so theski lines are as individual as signatures. While I aspire tomake my ski lines a calligraphy in motion, Maya picks themost direct, and thus often the steepest, path like a stonerolling down the mountain. In snow lingo this is called“skiing the fall-line,” the hallmark of an expert.www.aadirections.co.nz 23

FEATUREHOT SPOTSHOTPOOLS TREASURE MAPAotearoa is abundant with hot pools butyou need to know where to find them.We've pinpointed all the places you cantake a piping hot plunge. For map detailsand locations visit www.aadirections.co.nzWINTERMOTORING TIPBlack ice is the unseen terrorof our roads. Often, you won’tknow it’s there until you’re slippingand sliding all over the show.Our advice is to drive to theconditions and, if in an areawhere it regularly plummets tosub-zero temperatures, takeextra care when driving.24 AA Directions Winter 2013

FEATUREWINTERMOTORING TIPCold weather is tough onbatteries, so make sure yoursis up to snuff. Check page 86for our guide to getting yourbattery through the winter.If you do break down or yourcar won’t start, call theAA on 0800 500 222.----------------------------------------ON THIN ICEMy favourite spot ever: Mt Cook, taken by Mark Coote.WINTERMOTORING TIPTreat your car to a winterservice. Your mechanic willcheck things like brake padcondition, brake fluid andantifreeze levels, and will makean underbody inspection.Remember AA Members get adiscount and earn AA Smartfuelsavings at AA Auto Centres andAA Auto Service & Repair.BY MICHELE A’COURTIHATE WINTER. Always have.I envy other creatures who getfat during autumn harvest,then sleep their way throughthe bleak months, emerging whenthe world comes right again.I’ve tried to find an upsideto this brutal season. Living inQueenstown for a couple of years,I had a crack at snow skiing asa diversion. I’d been relativelyadept at the water version onsummer rivers behind a boat so,in theory, there was a chance Iwould take to it. But, I never gotover the clumsiness of the snowsuit, the boots made my feetclaustrophobic and the wholething hurt my knees.But, on a recent visit to theQueenstown Gardens, my husband– a Canadian with ice hockey inhis DNA – slipped out onto an icerink. Charmed initially just by thetiny white boots and shiny blades,I slipped out behind him.And it has been a revelation,this dancing on the ice. Though'dancing' may be too elaborate adescription. What I can manageowes less to the ballroom than itdoes to the school hall – hesitantand stumbly round the legs, painedconcentration on the face, like a12-year-old counting out a waltz.But, there are fleeting momentsof grace and joy, and a constantfeeling of surprise.I’ve been back several times,both there and to the outdoorrink they put down seasonally inChristchurch’s Hagley Park. Youtake off your coat and eventuallydiscard your hat, and pretendinside your head that you areTorvill to an imaginary Dean.You aren’t, but you discover theless you worry and the moreyou pretend, the longer thosemoments of grace and joy last.Like life, really.Also, it makes you warm.And there’s often a bar nearbywith mulled wine. And my husbandhas promised me a winter lakeholiday one day in Canada,so I need the practice.www.aadirections.co.nz 25

MIT2830From a time when your shoulders were wide, and your hair waseven wider. When your eyeshadow was thicker than your cousinBlade, and your jeans were tighter than paint.Your friends were called DJ, CJ, and DT, and you all snuck out ofthe rumpus room ranchslider to look for the hottest parties, inthe party magnet – a Mitsubishi Mirage. It’s time to do it all again. Unprecedented fuel economy starting from just 4.6L/100km * Comes with New Zealand’s best new car warranty.From just$18,990+ORC **Price listed is for LS model. GLS model shown. Price excludes On Road Costs of up to $650 which include registration, WoF and a full tank of fuel. Fuel economy figure for LS model only.

FEATURETHERMAL THERAPYBY KATHRYN WEBSTERLATE MORNING ONEcrisp, clear day, icy LakeTaupo in my rear visionmirror inspired a desireto be truly warm. I pulled intoWairakei Terraces, attracted bythe steam billowing over thecar park. Even wandering thewalkway past hot water streams,waterfalls and silica terraces for adewy view of an energetic geyserrelaxed my breathing. The moistair, the path, the smells, even thecolours were warm.I couldn’t resist a swim.Wairakei’s pools are small andquiet. Tucked below the terraces,under the hissing thrum of thegeyser, the waters waited greenfrom the overhanging shelter,dappled in sunlight.Cool winter air on bare winterskin sharpened my senses. I sat inmy togs for awhile, waiting for thecold to find me. Then I stepped in.The water tipped around myfeet, my calves, my knees – heavyand tight on my skin. My fingertipsdipped, flicked, tested. With asigh I collapsed, in slow motion.Wrapped in glorious, silky heat, alltension immediately melted. Thewater was almost syrupy, almostresistant – but that was probablybecause my limbs were instantlyloosened. Lazy, slow breast strokewas all I could manage and,then, not far. I was happy to sit onan underwater step, stretch myarms back and tilt my face to thepale sunlight. It was simple, clear,unadulterated bliss.WINTERMOTORING TIPA car maintenance checkat winter’s onset can save alot of grief. Ensure tyres are atthe correct pressure and haveplenty of tread, wiper bladesaren’t torn or worn out, and yourdemisters (both front and rear)are working properly. You’ll findinfo on snow tyres atwww.aa.co.nz/tyresWINTERMOTORING TIPDe-ice your car’s windshieldby pouring water from the tapover the ice to melt it and thenclear it with a plastic scraper.Never use boiling water, asthis can crack your glass, anddon’t use your wiper blades toclear ice off, as this will causethem damage.WIN AWINTERWEEKENDFeeling inspired to get out and embrace winter?AA Directions has two fabulous winter weekendsfor two to give away.South Island dwellers could win a Hanmer Springs prizepackage, including: Hanmer Springs Pamper Pack plus for two, includingtwo nights' accomodation at a 5 star motel, entry to thethermal pools and a half-hour private pool, a half-hoursauna or steam, and a one-hour massage. A Thrillseekers jetboat ride Lunch and a wine tasting at Marble Point WineryAnd if you’re in the North Island, you could winall this in Rotorua: Two nights’ accommodation at the Princes GateHotel, including dinner and cabaret evening Two one-hour spa therapies at the Polynesian Spa Rotorua Museum passes Scenic Gondola ride followed by luge rides, Volcanic Hillswine tasting dinner in the Skyline Rotorua Restaurant Te Puia Steambox picnic for twoAll meals, passes and accommodation are for two people.To enter, send your name, address and phone number on theback of an envelope to Winter Weekend, AA Directions, PO Box 5,Auckland 1140, or enter online at www.aadirections.co.nz.www.aadirections.co.nz 27

FEATURE8 applesbuttersultanashoneycinnamonbrown sugarcreme fraicheallspiceWINTER WARMERSBY MARTINBOSLEYILOVE WINTER. Far from beinga low point in the culinaryworld, it brings on an appetitefor hearty, slow-cooked stews,those sticky rich dishes that usecheaper cuts of meat, beans orroot vegetables – effective one-potmeals that nourish the soul. It’sabout steaming bowls of heavenlyfragrant Asian broths, and a lazypumpkin will quickly find itselfturned into a velvety smooth soupor a fragrant curry. Root vegetablesare roasted on a bed of salt,concentrating their sweetness,and desserts bring on a guiltyindulgence; if ever there was atime for a steamed pudding, thisis surely it. Winter food satisfies usdeeply, with mellowing comfortand warmth.It’s the fruit, though that I tendto favour. We may have seen theend of the stone and berry fruitsbut now is the time for pip fruits totake centre stage. Apples, pears,quinces and feijoas ask for littlemore than a consideration – slicedfruit embedded in a golden, butterycaramel and topped with puff pastrymakes the classic upside-down-tart,commonly known as tarte tatin,and takes hardly any time at all tomake. Hard, rose-scented quincesare a rare treat, cooked slowly untila deep garnet, ready to be addedto an apple pie or a frangipane tart.You can also serve them with roastpork or a chunk of cheese.A favourite pudding is bakedapples, stuffed with dried fruit andspices, served with a sauce madefrom crème fraiche and brownsugar – an easy butterscotchsauce, with just the right degree ofsourness. The spices alone fill thehouse with the kind of nostalgicaromatics you just want to snuggleinto and, for this cook, that is thevery essence of winter.WINTERMOTORING TIPKeep an emergency kitin your car with things like atorch, radio, spare batteries,and a charger for yourphone. In winter, it’d also payto keep a warm blanket andgood book in your car boot,in case you find yourselfstranded. Emergency kits areavailable at AA Centres.28 AA Directions Winter 2013

FEATUREMOVIE MAGICBY GREG BRUCEFOR THE PAST ten years orso, from the time my incomebegan exceeding my outgoings,nothing has given me morewintry pleasure than themagical day each June whenI pick up the freshly-printedNew Zealand InternationalFilm Festival programme.I most like to get it fromAuckland’s Civic theatre,because that is where I mostlike to watch films: that fantasticstarry palace where I couldwatch a blank screen for 90minutes and still come awayquite moved. Most years, thereare only two weeks you canwatch films at The Civic, andthose are the two weeks of thefilm festival.The festival programme isfilled with elegant, funny, lovingdescriptions of the films, writtenby the geniuses who spendmonths carefully choosingthem. To sit with it for a dayor so, when I should be doingproductive work, is the bestimaginable waste of my time.For weeks after first picking upthe programme, I spend manywork hours fantasising aboutthe films and the day – usually aSaturday, grey, wet, cold – whenI will finally make the deliciousdrive, heater full on my feet,from my home to the AucklandCBD, park underground andarrive warmly for my first filmat The Civic.Many June and July days areframed by the soft-focus thoughtof arriving in that grandlobby full of warmly dressedpeople drowning in perfumesand good, thick clothes. Themoment, when it comes, ispretty great too, but the realpower has always been in itsanticipation, that distant sparkof midwinter brightness.WINTERMOTORING TIPSnow chains should be usedwhen there’s snow or ice coveringthe road. Find a safe place tofit the chains before enteringthe snow. The chains producevibration when driving, so proceedslowly and with caution. Removethe chains when you have a clearroad ahead to prevent damage tothe vehicle, the chains andthe road.Getaways. Shot by Tessa Chrisp.www.aadirections.co.nz 29

FEATURENIGHT OUT IN WINTERBY ASHLEIGH YOUNGWhen he got home at six in the morningthe sky looked just like his grandfatherstanding in a doorway, arms crossedface dark with warning.Even when he drew the bedroom curtainsand poured himself into bedthat sky’s face weighed on himlike his grandfather gloweringthrough a closed door after dinner, the big cloudof him sat in a corner of the kitchen, wheezing, his chestfull of weathering sparrows.Hours passed until the sky occupied itselfwith duties: wind, rain. You see? I am needed.He heard it rummaging in the cutlery drawerof the trees, pointedlyand was glad that somebody was still busybeing disappointed in himbut when the daylight thawed outas snow that leaves only wet black roadsthe early dark grumbled at himto pull himself together and turn a light onput on something warm; he was forgiven.WINTERMOTORING TIPAside from navigating you fromA to B, GPS units can also pinpointthe exact coordinates of your location.If you break down you can relay thatinformation to advise AA Roadservice ofyour whereabouts. Alternatively, iPhoneusers can download the AA Roadserviceapp, which will also tell us exactly whereyou are if you happen to break down.For instructions on downloading the appvisit aa.co.nz/mobile-appNIGHTTERRORSBY DAVID FARRIERIN WINTER THERE’S nothing I like morethan extreme midnight walks in the bush,preferably up a raging riverbed.One of my favourite walks is west ofAuckland at Karekare. I don’t really want togo into specifics of locations, as it’s probablyquite dangerous just talking about thisridiculous pastime.When it comes to around June, my friendsand I purchase headlamps for $20 a popand meet up at about midnight. Tuesdaysare good. So are Sundays. We take whisky,nuts, water, togs, spare batteries (nightmarescenario: headlamps run out) and a changeof clothes.The aim of the midnight bushwalk issimple: hit a riverbed and walk up it.Leaving the river for land is a sign ofweakness. Eels are out at night and thebeam of the headlamp can catch them attheir most terrifying – when they’re big,close and curious. Your vision is alwaysdictated by the narrow beam of your lamp:it’s claustrophobic and exhilarating.Some parts of the river are a simple walk,with water barely passing over ankles. Otherparts – the fun parts – are more challenging.You climb up small waterfalls, all slipperyand uneven. You scale rock jutting out ofmurky pools, imagining what lies beneath.At certain points you encounter hugekauri – once felled and transported by river– wedged between the river walls. Theycriss cross up the rock face like giantclimbing frames. It’s quiet, mostly, but nowand then a scream will pierce the air, aspossums fight or make love or do whateverthe hell they’re doing.We emerge from the bush about three hourslater. We’re wet and cold, but feel alive, happyand tired. You always sleep well after one ofthese missions. And the whisky helps, too.30 AA Directions Winter 2013

FEATURERUNNING GAMESBY SHARON STEPHENSONI HAVE A faint scar onmy right knee. It’s whereI tripped one July evening, asthe cold rain spat at my faceand a Wellington southerlythreatened to cut me in two.Running in winter is a joke,and a cruel one at that. It’shard to wedge myself fromunder the duvet, and reasonsto flag a morning jog soonaccumulate: it’s too cold, toowet, too slippery, too dark,too early.But, running when NewZealand has on her winter coatis much more rewarding thanjogging under a blazing sun.There’s a glorious intimacyabout running in winter: therawness of nature, the smellof the earth, the nakedness ofthe trees. A few other lunaticsaside, I usually have thewaterfront to myself, so there’sno one to see how slowly Iput one sneakered foot infront of the other. I can run incrusty old track pants and aworn poly-prop that violatesevery dress code known towomankind. And no one cares.On days when the weatherthreatens to turn me into ahuman popsicle, the kilometreslogged often exceed thetemperature. But, there’s agrim kind of satisfaction inpounding through the coldand rain, of beating winterat her own game. I’m a longtimeWellingtonian; we don’tscare easily.Winter running is also one ofthe best ways I know of tellingSeasonal Affective Disorder(SAD) to jog on. Runningreleases powerful hormonesthat help combat SAD, andI’ve been told that thosewho exercise outside in thetoughest season experiencea greater sense of well-beingand fewer mood swings. If Ican run in winter, I reason,then I can do almost anything.WINTERMOTORING TIPBe safe, be seen issolid advice, especially inthe grey of winter. In lowlight conditions, such as adrizzly afternoon or a foggymorning, flick your lightson to low beam.WINTERMOTORING TIPDo not attempt to cross a floodedroad, if there’s any doubt as to thedepth of the water or your ownsafety. Never drive through waterdeeper than your engine’s airintake because if water is suckedinto the engine, it can damage it.The Kaeo rugby boys feeling the chill. Caught on camera by Tony Foster.www.aadirections.co.nz 31

FEATUREWINTERMOTORING TIPIt’s not just about warmthwhen you’re walking andcycling in winter. Give yourselfthe best chance of being seenby wearing high-vis clothes,especially in winter morningsand evenings.DRESSING UPBYLEONIE BARLOWBY THE END of summer,I’m always anxious forwinter to roll around.Don’t get me wrong,I hate the cold, can’t standshorter days and think hotchocolate is overrated – butI love winter fashion.At the first hint of a change ofseason, I’m trading my strappysandals for suede boots, dusting offmy leather leggings and bringingm y coats out of hibernation. Myover-eagerness to dive headlonginto winter fashion has left mecooking in my cashmere on morethan one occasion.I don’t know what the opposite ofa beach body is, but I think I haveone. In winter, I’m so layered upin woollies, even if I had a beachbody you’d never know. Coveringup is one of the advantages of coldweather dressing.In fact, there are many reasonsto love winter fashion. For starters,it‘s the perfect excuse to wearpractical footwear. I’m not AnnaWintour, with a driver and a limo atthe ready, so the risk of frostbiteor a slipped disc is enough to makeme shelve my heels and put mytanned tootsies into timeout.I reckon the key to lookinghot when the temperature dropscomes down to simple wardrobemaths. A few timeless basics(a classic coat and a great pairof boots), plus a couple of keyessentials (merino tees and tailoredpants) equals chic and warm allseason long.Coco Chanel may have suggestedtaking off an accessory on yourway out the door, but these extrasare outfit game changers at thistime of year. So, on my way out,I’ll be adding a chunky scarf, myfavourite woolly hat and someleather gloves for good measure.Welcome back, winter.32 AA Directions Winter 2013

FEATUREKEEPING ANEYE ON THE BALLBY ADAM MAMOIN 1995 THE Auckland Warriorsleague team ran onto the pitch atMt Smart Stadium to play their firstever game in the Australian NRL.They lost the fight that night, butwon thousands of Kiwi fans– including me. We had a teamthat was all ours, a team that waslocal, accessible and born witha signature sketchy flair.TV viewing was fine, but I neededto visit Mt Smart to see the Warriorsplay live. They lost the first gameI went to as well. Undeterred, I’vereturned every winter since. Why?Because, on game day, the mismatchedtransform into a thunderous stewpot that’s uniquely Kiwi: a placewhere road workers, bankers andfamilies unite for a single cause.A place where kids learn newswear words and are given reasonto practise them immediately.A place where steam rises fromthe backs of thousands of fansand the only thing that isn’t coldenough is the plastic-bottled beer.Over the years I’ve viewed theWarriors from nearly every angle;I’ve slipped to a muddy seat on thegrass bank and sipped drinks in thecorporate lounges. My preferredthud of bodies colliding and seeopposition faces, as the stadiumthreatens to close its jaws and spitthem out, soaked in the jeers of thecrowd, with the bite of defeat.Sure, being a Warriors supporterisn’t always easy. They’vetrailblazed fan-killing moveslike the reckless offload, thefinal minute choke and theunexplainable brain explosion.But, if you’re patient, if you battlethe winter weather and the flukeyform, you’ll be there when the rainclouds part, everything aligns,and the Warriors are completelystands of the stadium position is anywhere I can hear the unstoppable.----------------------------------------www.aadirections.co.nz 33

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Keeping New Zealanders XXXXXXXX movingDriverBig RedVictoria Chapman and her Mazda 6 Station Wagon“IN ALL HONESTY, I bought thiscar for my husky-cross, Meg. She’sa big dog and she needs a big car, soanything smaller wasn’t going to bepractical. Even in this one her earstouch the roof!“It’s a bit out there to pick a car foryour dog, but I love it too. The colouris great, and even though it’s big, it’s abreeze to park and to nip around in.It suits us both perfectly.” ←PHOTOGRAPHY: JESSIE CASSONwww.aadirections.co.nz 35

DRIVERWoF ChangingFurther changes to the Warrant ofFitness (WoF) test frequency areexpected to be introduced later thisyear. Currently, only vehicles undersix years of age are eligible for anannual WoF, but the NZ TransportAgency (NZTA) has completedconsulting on a plan to expand thisto include cars up to nine years old.The NZTA’s final decision had notbeen released as this issue was goingto print but, if adopted as expected,light vehicles first registered betweenNew WoF inspection frequenciesAge of vehicle2004-2008 can have a 12-month WoFfollowing a successful inspectionfrom 1 October this year.It is also expected that, from 1 April2014, the age range will be expandedagain to include cars and motorcyclesfirst registered between 2000 and 2003.Vehicles registered before 2000 willcontinue to require a six-monthlyWoF, while brand new cars andmotorcycles registered on or after1 April 2014 will receive a three-yearWoF following an initial inspection.Age of vehicle New WoF inspection frequencies Estimated dateof introductionNew An initial WoF inspection, 1 April 2014one at three years old,then one per year for thelifetime of the vehicleFirst registered One per year for the lifetime 1 October 2013 foranywhere in the of the vehicle vehicles first registeredworld on or after between 2004-20081 January 2000 1 April 2014 for vehiclesfirst registeredbetween 2000-2003First registered anywhere One every six months Already in placein the world before for the lifetime of the vehicle – no change1 January 2000RECALLREPORTThere is no need to be alarmedif your vehicle is identified aspart of a recall campaign.Car companies continuallyanalyse reported defects and, asthey take safety very seriously,will initiate recall campaignsas a preventative measure, ifa component is found to havea high failure rate.Vehicle owners are notifiedof recalls. In the case of carssold new in New Zealand, themanufacturer will contactthe registered owner. In someinstances, with used imports, itisn’t always so easy but, whensafety is involved (such as withthe recent airbag recall onHonda, Mazda, Nissan and Toyotavehicles), the distributor willobtain owner contact details viathe NZ Transport Agency (NZTA).Both the Motor IndustryAssociation (MIA) and NZTApublish recall data on theirwebsites, so you can check tosee if your car is affected. Ifit is, don’t panic. You will becontacted by the manufacturer tomake arrangements for work tobe carried out, at no cost to you.FAREWELL FALCONFord’s closure of its manufacturingoperations in Australia in October2016 signals the end of an erafor the Falcon nameplate. Thedivision began operating in Geelongin 1925 assembling Model Ts,and went on to produce manyAussie motoring icons. The closuremeans the Falcon badge will beretired for good. No decision hasbeen reached on what to dowith Ford’s Territory name.Having suffered losses of A$600million in the past five years, thedecision to close the plants willmean the loss of 1,200 jobs.The news came just a monthafter GM Holden announced 500job cuts, most of those at its plantin South Australia, citing the highAustralian dollar, low-cost importedcars from Asia and falling sales of itsCommodore and Cruze models asreasons for the cuts.36 AA Directions Winter 2013

DRIVERAIRBAG INNOVATIONVolvo is widely known and respectedfor building safe vehicles. With therelease of the new V40, the Swedishcarmaker has come one step closer torealizing its admirable goal of havingno deaths or serious injuries insideits new vehicles by 2020.It also goes a long way topreventing tragedy occurring onthe outside of the car. This is becausethe V40 has an airbag designedto prevent deaths and reduceinjuries of pedestrians.The five-door family hatchbackhas seven sensors fitted on itsfront bumper, which allows it todifferentiate between the impact ofa vehicle and a person. If someone isstruck by the car, within millisecondsthe rear of the bonnet is fired upby 10 centimetres to prevent thepedestrian from making contact withthe hard engine parts underneath.The large airbag installed at thetrailing edge of the bonnet preventsthe pedestrian’s body from hittingthe windscreen, A-pillar or roof.This pioneering safety technologysaw the V40 awarded the 2013 GlobalNCAP Innovation award. Last year,the car achieved a five-star EuroNCAP safety rating.APPLY TO GLASS.DEFY THE ELEMENTS.Apply Rain-X® Original Glass Treatmentto your windshield and watch water beadup and slide off as if by magic, giving you aclearer view of the road ahead. Photos at leftshow the remarkable difference in visibilityone treatment can make. Visit rainx.co.nzOutsmart The Elements

Accept nothing less.Make safety the priority when choosing your next car.If it doesn’t have a 5 star ANCAP safety rating,cross it off your list!As Australasia’s leading independent vehicle safety advocate,ANCAP provides consumers with transparent advice on vehicle safetythrough its safety rating program.ANCAP recommends 5 star rated vehicles.ancap.com.au

DRIVERAnd the winner is…Mark Stockdale compares our motoring costs with the neighbours’KIWIS RETURNING FROMAustralia often marvel atthe low price of fuel there.While it’s true that petrol,at least, costs more in New Zealand– due to a combination of higher fueltaxes and a lower exchange rate –the AA’s analysis of vehicle runningcosts shows that, overall, it costsmore to own a car in Australia thanin New Zealand.We’ve focussed on the typical dayto-daycosts, comparing fuel costs,annual licensing, vehicle insuranceand servicing costs, using AA Clubdata from each jurisdiction basedon a typical compact, near-new car.We’ve excluded finance, interestHow do our motoring costs compare?New Zealand Australia (QLD) Australia (VIC)Annual vehicle licence 1 – petrol $288 $789 $849Annual vehicle licence 1 – diesel $418 $789 $849Insurance – vehicle only 2 $750 $904 $884Annual servicing (R&M, tyres, oil) $937 $1,403 $1,417Annual petrol costs 3,4,5 $1,882 $2,000 $2,000Annual diesel costs 3,4,5 $1,036 $1,668 $1,668Diesel Road User Charges 3 $636 n/a n/aTOTAL petrol $3,857 $5,096 $5,150TOTAL diesel $3,777 $4,764 $4,818NOTES: Costs calculated based on a compact car (up to 2 litres), and rounded. All Australian costs converted to NZ$ at an exchange rate of 82c1. Includes compulsory third party (injury) insurance (ACC in NZ)2. Club insurance; comprehensive cover with no claims bonus (new car)3. Annual mileage: 12,000km (NZ); 15,000km (Aus)4. Fuel consumption: petrol 7.54 litres/100km; diesel 6.08 l/100km5. Petrol = NZ$2.08/litre, A$1.45/litre; diesel = NZ$1.42/litre, A$1.50/litre. Source: AA PetrolWatch, AAAWhat our licence fees pay forPetrol car (excl. ute or van)Diesel car (excl. ute or van)ACC levy $198.46 ACC levy $311.38National Land Transport Fund $43.50 National Land Transport Fund $43.50Safety standards levy $1.64 Safety standards levy $1.64Admin & licence label $6.62 Admin & licence label $6.62GST $37.53 GST $54.47Total: $287.75 Total: $417.61Fuel tax comparisonNZ c/litre (petrol only*)Australia c/litre (petrol & diesel)National Land Transport Fund 53.524 Commonwealth excise 38.143ACC 9.9Fuel Monitoring Levy 0.045Local Authorities Fuel Tax 0.66Total excise 64.129 Total excise 38.143GST ($2.08 at 15%) 27.13 GST ($1.45 at 10%) 13.18TOTAL TAX 91.26 TOTAL TAX (A$) 51.32* As from 1 July, 2013. Diesel in NZ incurs the Fuel Monitoring Levy (0.045c/litre), Local Authorities Fuel Tax (0.33c/litre), plus GST, totalling18.89c/litre at a retail price of $1.42/litre; the National Land Transport Fund levy is collected from diesel RUC of $53 per 1,000km for a light vehicle.and depreciation, as these varyaccording to vehicle age and value.Data shows that the average Kiwimotorist travels 12,000km a year.Australian motorists typically travel15,000km a year; their fuel costs reflectthe higher annual mileage. Dieselpump prices are much higher inAustralia because it includes excise,whereas in New Zealand this isa separate Road User Charge.All Australian costs have beenconverted into New Zealand dollarsusing an exchange rate of NZ$0.82.What does the comparison tell us?It shows that while our fuel costs areoften perceived as high, they aremore than offset by lower costs, likethe annual vehicle licence, whichis amongst the lowest in the world.The Australian motoring costsare mostly inflated by the annuallicence fees which, like New Zealand,includes compulsory third-partyinjury insurance. Although someACC levies are collected in petroltax, New Zealand’s compulsory injuryinsurance fees are much lower thanAustralia because of the economies ofscale of our State-run, no-fault ACCscheme, which averages costs acrossall drivers, helping keep levies low.Australian motoring costs are $1300more a year than in New Zealand.But the average Australian full-timeincome is higher than ours. If wecompare costs (in domestic currency)as a percentage of average income,then the cost of running a typicalpetrol car is higher in New Zealandat 7.2% of income, whereas inAustralia it's 5.5%. So, while higherincome levels in Australia meanthose earning a full wage or salaryare better able to afford the country’shigher motoring costs, if you are ona low or fixed income, then it ischeaper to own a car here. ←www.aadirections.co.nz 39

DRIVERRENTAL RISKSPeter King discovers scary liability issues in rental car agreementsYOU KNOW WHERE youstand with car insurance.If your car is driven bysomeone who’s drunk,outside the conditions of theirrestricted licence, involved in astreet race or on a beach, your coveris gone and you are liable for anydamage they do. Other than that,if you crash with comprehensivecar insurance, you are covered foryour own loss (less the excess) andany loss to third parties, whetheryou’re at fault or not.You might think the same sort ofconditions apply when you drivea rental car, right? Wrong.Consider this scenario: you wake upin hospital to hear that a truck driversays you crossed the centre line andsmashed into his truck. There areno other witnesses. The Police havecharged you with careless drivingand, if you are convicted, under theterms of your rental car agreementinsurance exclusions, you will bepersonally liable for the rental car andthe quarter-million-dollar truck, aswell as the loss of income to the rentaland truck firms while the vehiclesare off the road. This is a true story.And it needn’t be so dramatic.You’re at a Give Way sign. Youcheck that everything’s clear, pullout and someone charges around anearby corner and ploughs into you.You say he was speeding; he saysyou didn’t give way. No one admitsresponsibility (as their insurancepolicies demand) but, lacking anyevidence that the other guy wasspeeding, the Police charge youfor failing to give way.Poor observation accounted for athird of the rental car injury crashes inthe past five years. Under many rentalcar insurance agreements your liability,along with your credit card, is – onceagain – wedged wide open. In fact, insome contracts, you agree to effectivelylet the rental firm decide how muchmoney to take off you indefinitely, todeal only with them, and to not everreverse any credit card charges.“Until rental carinsurance becomesmore transparent itwould pay to check theterms and conditionsof any offer, alongwith the price.“The clause that creates all theseproblems doesn’t look very dangerousby itself. All it says is that insuranceis excluded if the conditions of thehireage are broken. For things likedriving the car in a reckless manner,that seems reasonable. It’s the otherclause in the agreement whichcan cause grief. It’s the one thatcontractually obliges you to do whatyou must do anyway: obey the lawand follow the rules of the road.What this means is, if you havea crash due to carelessness (bydefinition almost every crash is dueto carelessness) or infringing anyof the hundreds of road rules, youset off the condition of vehicle hireinsurance exclusion. Some rentalcompanies make it more explicit:they specifically exclude insuranceon the basis of any traffic offence.The contractual obligation to thehirer to obey the road rules is not asneaky trick by rental firms. The NZTArequires rental car firms to ensure youagree not to break any road rules.The same rule requires firms to collectinfringements, so it was probablydesigned to collect from touriststempted to run up speed camerafines and then skip the country.But, that doesn’t explain why thereshould be an insurance exclusion.In fact, section 11 of the InsuranceReform Act 1977 basically demandsthat insurance should not be soriddled with exclusions that it ceasesto effectively be insurance. Somerental car terms and conditionsinclude reference to section 11,and customers should see this asa good sign. It means the rentalfirm actually has insurance.Karen Stevens is the insuranceombudsman. She sees plenty ofdisputes where people are deniedcover because they breach the termsof their ordinary car insurance. But,she has no cases involving rentalfirms, despite the fact there havebeen 1763 injury crashes involvingrental cars in the past five years.Half of them involved a driver onan overseas licence. The reasonis probably that the insuranceombudsman scheme is only availableto customers of insurance companiesand the word ‘insurance’ is notrestricted by law.Because it turns out there aretwo kinds of rental car firms –those that self-insure, and thosethat have insurance policies withregistered insurance companies.40 AA Directions Winter 2013

ILLUSTRATION: DARON PARTONMany of the smaller car rental firmsinsure with Lumley’s – an insurancefirm that specializes in the transportindustry. In a statement, Lumley’sconfirmed to us that, like most domesticcar insurance, it has no requirementthat insurance be excluded if a drivercommits an offence.Smaller firms’ terms and conditionsseem to be less onerous than those ofbig chains. In most cases involving smallrental car companies, it is the excessbeing contested, not the total liability.Excesses can be high – up to $10,000 –but, compared to the third-party liabilityif your rental car hits someone’s house,rig or expensive car, they are small.When it comes to rental firms thatself-insure, however things can getvery stressful. Section 11 doesn’tapply (or get mentioned in theagreement) because the ‘insurance’you agreed to isn’t really insurance.Effectively, the large firms aretaking advantage of the fact thatNew Zealand law does not demandcompulsory vehicle insurance. Theytend to cover their own costs of lossand liability by putting it straight backon the hirer. This means that you areat fault, the third party’s insurancecompany goes after the hire firm,which comes after you – armed withan agreement you signed to payjust about anything they deem fit.Under the terms of the LandTransport Operator Rule, a renteris allowed to waive the hirer’s‘insurance’, if the renter has analternative insurance policy. Not onesingle rental car company website Icould find specifies in advance whichalternative insurance policies areacceptable. If you want to invoke thisrule, it would take some negotiation.So, what is the answer? Well, untilthe rental car industry becomes a lotmore transparent about what it meansby insurance and what it covers when,it would pay to check the terms andconditions of any offer, along with theprice. And, if you want maximum cover,take out travel insurance. A typicalseven-day policy with a $100 excessprovides up to half a million dollars inpersonal liability, covers $1000 rentalexcess, and costs about $45. ←www.aadirections.co.nz 41

DRIVERBIG DREAMSKim Newth meets a mechanic fascinated with American classic carsIS IT THEIR sleek fins, theirchrome or their sheer sizethat hook people into ‘goingAmerican’? Ben Johnson ofWaikuku has no idea how hefirst became obsessed with Americancruisers and muscle cars but, at lastcount, his backyard holds arounda dozen, ranging from Chevroletsof various makes and models to a1968 Dodge Charger, a PlymouthBarracuda and a Buick 1957 wagon.An immaculate turquoise and white1956 Chevy, which Ben purchasedin 2003 from a seller in Adelaide,is parked on the drive. Before Benworked his magic, this car had noengine and its paintwork and interiorwere very shabby. Now it driveslike a dream and looks superb.His workshop and garage spacehold an ever-expanding collectionof cars, as well as motoring signs,petrol pumps, car magazines,model cars and other memorabilia.Getting it all under cover is amission; Ben recently put up anotherroomy garage. His partner of 14years, Lorraine Stevens, acceptsa certain amount of overflow intothe house, with shelves of die-castmodel cars in the lounge.Ben grew up in Kaiapoi, north ofChristchurch, car mad from the start.He left school at 16 to take upan apprenticeship as a mechanic.A few years later, he’d saved upenough to buy his first 1938 Chevy.“There was no engine in it. It wasjust a body. In retrospect, it was a bittoo ambitious a project for me to takeon then,” Ben recalls, adding that thecar ended up being pulled to bitsand stayed that way.In 1998, he started working forPHOTOGRAPHY: GUY FREDERICK42 AA Directions Winter 2013

DRIVERhimself, leasing a workshop out theback of the local BP service station.Four years later, he moved to biggerpremises before finally selling thebusiness last year. Now he’s busywith private repair contracts,working from his home workshop.Throughout his time as a mechanic,his interest in collecting and restoringbig old American cars has grown.His preference is for classic carswith potential, rather than onesthat come buffed up as new.“It’s more affordable to buy carsas ‘a project’ and you know whatyou’re getting. The risk in spendinga lot of money on something niceand shiny is while it may look reallygood, it may turn out to have beenpatched up and poorly restored.”Ben’s collection has grown fromcars found in New Zealand – forexample, a 1967 Camaro purchasedfrom a man who had imported it fromCalifornia – as well as in Australia“Out the back ofLas Vegas we cameacross 300 cars in themiddle of nowhere.I was like a kid in alolly shop.“and the United States.On a trip to the US last year, hebought a 1955 Cadillac Coupe deVille that he’d spotted at a swap meetin Pomona, California. “It didn’t sellthere, so I ended up ringing the guyafterwards and driving out to hishome in the desert, an hour out ofLos Angeles. It’d just been parked up,derelict, for years. He showed us allthe paperwork, I bought it and thenhe offered to tow it to the shipper’syard for us.”Ben had every intention of holdingon to this car. “However, no soonerhad I got it going than I sold it to aguy I’d been doing some work for.He’d fallen in love with it and hadto have it. At least I know it has goneto a good home.”Ben and Lorraine have madeseveral trips to the US. Ben loves thevastness of the desert States, wherethe dry air helps to preserve thebodies of old cars. “You never knowwhat you’ll find. I remember onetime, out the back of Las Vegas, wecame across 300 cars sitting out in apaddock in the middle of nowhere.They were all projects in varyingstates. I was like a kid in a lollyshop looking through that place.”Through the classifieds siteCraigslist, Ben also found an oldcollector of cars in Arizona whowas selling his lifetime’s collectionfrom out of a yard and warehousein an industrial area. Fossickingthrough a treasure trove like thatis what keeps Ben hooked on theidea of going back again. »

DRIVER“I love going to the old junkyardsover there, too. They’re quite hard tofind, but they often have such coolmemorabilia.”So much can be done by phoneand online these days that it’s notnecessary to travel to the US to buya classic car from there. Ben saysit does pay to be cautious, though,when buying from a private seller inanother country. He suggests buyersseek detailed close-up photos ofvehicles they’re interested in to makesure they’re in advertised condition.Ben also recommends havingvehicles properly inspected before“There was noengine, it was justa body. In retrospect,it was too ambitiousa project for me totake on back then.“proceeding with any purchase.“Don’t send large sums ofmoney on the basis of one or twophotos to someone you don’t know.You’re better to work through aninternational freight company.”A shipper can pick up the vehicle,put it in a container and sort out allthe paperwork. Buyers should alsobe prepared for hidden costs, suchas cleaning and MAF charges, overand above freight fees.When he’s not searching for newprojects or working on the carsthemselves, Ben likes to get behindthe wheel, with Lorraine at his side.They love taking long Kiwi road trips.One of their favourite drives is tothe annual Whangamata BeachHop festival in the Coromandel...the only hitch being trying to decidewhich car to take when there areso many choices. ←44 AA Directions Winter 2013

CELEBRATINGLANCASTER’S70TH ANNIVERSARYHand-craftedAvro LancasterBombersculpture withbronze-tonefinishExpertly hand-paintedfor precision detailMEASURES25cm WIDE16cm HIGH15cm DEEPShowcasing the617 Squadron motto‘Après Moi, Le Déluge’Clock and thermometerinspired by theLancaster’s authenticcockpit instrumentsIncludes a fascinatingFREE FACT CARD!For quickest delivery, order online:www.bradford.net.nzQuoting promotion code: 20671In 1942, the ground-breaking Lancaster Bomber entered into RAF service, making militaryhistory as it confi rmed its battle-ready status. Symbolising the combined hopes of the Alliednations, this spectacular aircraft delivered a record 608,612 tons of bombs during its remarkable156,000 sorties, proving itself to be one of the most successful night bombers of WWII!Now you can celebrate the landmark 70 th anniversary of a true icon of the skies with theperfect tribute – the Lancaster Bomber Masterpiece Clock is a collectable unique to TheBradford Exchange.Mastercrafted by hand for authentic detail... fl own during his command of the famed 617 Squadron. museum-quality treasures. cockpit! Astounding quality and unique design – order yours today!This anniversary edition is a one-of-a-kind celebration of an iconic aircraft and alegendary pilot. Arriving with a Certifi cate of Authenticity, this fi ne masterpiece is yourspostage and handling, backed by our famous 365-day guarantee. You need pay nothingnow. To reserve your edition, simply complete and return the coupon today!©2013 The Bradford Exchange Ltd. A.B.N. 13 003 159 617 426-B3949.01Mr/Mrs/Miss/MsSurname:Address:Phone: (optional)Email: (optional)Role: Heavy bomberIntroduced: 1942Retired: 1963 (Canada)Number built: 7,377Crew: 7: pilot, flight engineer, navigator, bombaimer, operator, mid-upper and rear gunnersLength: 69 ft 5 in (21.18 m)Height: 19 ft 7 in (5.97 m)Powerplant: 4× Rolls-Royce Merlin XX V12engines, 1,280 hp (954 kW) eachMaximum speed: 240 kn (280 mph, 450 km/h) at15,000 ft (5,600 m)Guns: 8× 0.303 in (7.7 mm) Browning machineguns in three turrets, with variationsBombs: Maximum normal bomb load of 14,000lb (6,300kg) or 22,000 lb Grand Slam withmodifications to bomb bay.PAY NOTHING NOWTHE BRADFORD EXCHANGEFirst Name:Postcode:✂Please Respond PromptlyYES! Please reserve the “70th Anniversary Lancaster Bomber” Clock forme as described in this advertisement. This clock is available for three instalmentsof $49.99, a total of $149.99 plus $14.99 postage and handling. I understand I needpay nothing now.✓Please select ❑ your preferred reservation option:1. ❑ MAIL no stamp required, to:The Bradford Exchange, Freepost No.98331,✉PO Box 91901, Victoria Street West, Auckland 1142or 2. ❑ FAX to: 0800 241 758 – 24 hrs or 3. ❑ ONLINE at www.bradford.net.nzquoting promotion code: 20671 Please allow up to 28 days for delivery. All sales subject to product availability and reservation acceptance. Creditcriteria may apply. From time to time, we may allow carefully screened companies to contact you. If you would prefernot to receive such offers, please tick this box. ❑

DRIVERForeign affairsThe AA’s Donavan Edwards explains the Carnet de PassageEVERY YEAR, AROUND100 New Zealanderstake their vehicles onholiday overseas.Usually, they have arrangeda Carnet de Passage en Douane,an international customs documentissued by the NZAA. The documentis like a passport or a visa for a car,motorbike, campervan or trailer.It proves to customs officials that abond has been left in the country oforigin and guarantees payment ofduties, if the vehicle isn’t exportedwithin the stipulated time frame.Without the document, touringmotorists have to place a customsbond at each border they cross.The bond is refundable on departurebut, in most cases, that doesn’thappen immediately and, if theyare crossing several borders, thosecosts quickly add up. Plus, it canbe tiresome trying to reclaim moneyfrom foreign officials. Sorting outthe paperwork before leaving NewZealand avoids a lot of this hassle.The carnet is accepted bymany countries around the world,including parts of South America,Africa, Asia, the Middle Eastand Australia, with Australia themost popular destination for Kiwicarnet applications.The AA hears fascinating road tripstories when carnet holders return.One account reveals how Ken Wilson,an adventurous weekend motorbikeenthusiast, became an addict oflong- distance riding.Wellington-based Ken shippedhis motorbike to Australia and,with a carnet, he was able to usehis New Zealand-registered bike tocircumnavigate the country. A friendaccompanied him and they rode morethan 23,000km in a couple of months.It wasn’t long before the two friendsdecided on another challenge. Thenext journey was from Alaska downto Argentina and this time Ken’swife Shirley accompanied them,as pillion on Ken’s motorbike.One of the advantages of takingyour own transport is being ableto customize it for the trip, as Kendid. Additional safety features,such as extra lights and crash bars,protective guards, more storage andcomfortable sheepskin seat covers,ensured the ride was as smoothas possible.The carnets were sorted and Ebony,Ken’s BMW motorbike, was crated andshipped to Canada. A few weeks later,he and his companions had collectedtheir bikes and started the journey.The route to Alaska consistedof roads alongside snow-cappedmountains and a glacier-fed alpinelake. Once Prudhoe Bay wasreached, the bikes were pointedsouth. They crossed back intoCanada, then into the United Statesof America, with a plan to visit asmany national parks as possible.On the route they stopped at theremote Four Corners monument,located in Navajo country. This is theonly place in the USA where fourStates meet at one point and, if youare a bit flexible, you can literallybe in Arizona, Utah, New Mexicoand Colorado at the same time.They rode further south down theiconic coastal route through Big Sur,past the Hearst Castle museum wherethe late publishing tycoon WilliamRandolph Hearst’s art collectioncan be viewed, then crossed overthe Bixby Creek Bridge en route toHollywood’s Santa Monica Boulevardfor a night out on the town.PHOTOGRAPHY: KEN WILSON46 AA Directions Winter 2013

www.plumbingworld.co.nzThe border crossing into Mexicowas more like a moderately busyintersection and the customs officialswaved the bikes through.When theyarrived in La Paz, Independence Daycelebrations were underway, withPolice and soldiers in camouflagegear carrying large rifles marchingthrough the streets. Then, aftersunset, fireworks lit the skies.Heading out of La Paz throughcobble streets, they went toGuatemala for a stopover. Then,crossing six borders from Mexico toPanama in six days, they arrivedat the ferry terminal in time for themonthly crossing to Cartegena,Colombia in a 105-year-old boat.They found the roads in Colombiadominated by fully-laden truckstransporting sugar cane, whichmade passing on motorbikestricky, but the superb drive throughrainforest and up steep mountainranges made it worthwhile.The equator crossing into Perurevealed a desert terrain, with highdaytime temperatures and coldnights. A 600km circuitous routeup to 15,000ft above sea level Kendescribed as “awesome” and, atthe top, the ancient Nazca Lineswere visible.After riding the many dirt roads inArgentina and crossing 19 borders,they made it to Ushuaia at thebottom of the country.It’s not only bikers that have allthe fun. Classic vehicles are oftenshipped over the ditch, and furtherafield, for car shows and rallies.Adventure seekers take their 4X4vehicles on African safaris and tothe Australian Outback, and someKiwis like to tour abroad with theirown caravan or motorhome.Armed with a carnet, the businessof getting their wheels into foreigncountries is relatively easy. ←See www.aa.co.nz/carnet for more details oncarnet applications, or phone 0800 500 333.Some countries have reciprocal AA breakdownservices. See www.aa.co.nz/travel.NOT BORNFOR DIY?Or you simply don’t have enough time...Get your new toilet suite, vanity, basin/sink mixer orslide shower professionally installed by one of ourqualified plumbers. You’ll save time, worry, and awhole lot of potential problems down the track.NO HIDDEN COSTS,JUST GREAT INSTALL PRICESYOURYOURYOUR YOUR SLIDE$325 * $325 * $195 * $135 *TOILET SUITEINSTALLED FORVANITYINSTALLED FORBASIN MIXERINSTALLED FORSHOWERINSTALLED FOR*CONDITIONS APPLYFind out more by talking to one of our specialistconsultants today.bathrooms, laundries, kitchens and gas...it’s what we knowBranches NationwideFreephone 0800 800 686Plumbing World ispart of the NZPMCooperative

DRIVERNew to MarketToyota RAV48.5L / 100KMHolden Commodore9L / 100KMSubaru Forester8.1L / 100KMHOLDEN COMMODOREStyling changes front and rear, anda sophisticated new look on theinside are the major upgrades forHolden’s new VF Commodore. Theride is comfortable and it’s a capableperformer through the corners. Anelectric handbrake switch replacesthe previous model’s finger-pinchinglever and new features include ahead-up display, frontal collisionalert, blind spot monitoring andautomatic-parking technology.Pricing starts with the 3.0L V6 Evokeat $49,990; the V8 models are pricedfrom $61,490 for the SS auto; theCaprice-V tops the range at $85,490.Good: New technology introducedwithout a price increase.Not so good: Engine choices staythe same.TOYOTA RAV4A roof-hinged tailgate replaces theprevious model’s side opening reardoor and, although the body hasshrunk, it feels a whole lot roomierinside. The RAV4 has traditionallybeen an AWD vehicle, but a 2WDis now on offer, fitted with a 2.0L107kW/187Nm petrol engine matedto a CVT transmission driving thefront wheels. The AWD modelshave either a 2.5L 132kW/233Nmpetrol or a 2.2L diesel motor, with110kW/340Nm; both are fitted to asix-speed auto. The petrol modelsstart at $39,990 for the 2.0L GX up to$60,790 for the 2.5L Limited. The 2.2Ldiesels are from $49,290 to $62,790.Good: No more bulky rear door.Not so good: Dashboard styling notto everyone’s taste.SUBARU FORESTERThe Forester has a bold newappearance, a refined cabin andfour engine options; a 2.0L petrolengine with 110kW/198Nm, aturbocharged 2.0L petrol motor withhot-hatch output of 177kW/350Nm,a 2.0L diesel with 108kW/350Nmand a 2.5L petrol delivering126kW/235Nm. Subaru’s Lineartronicautomatic transmission is fitted toall but the diesel, which has a sixspeedmanual. Subaru’s ‘eyesight’technology makes it a whole lotsafer, too, and is standard equipmenton the XT and Premium models.Pricing from $39,990 to $59,990.Good: A competent performeroff-road.Not so good: No automatic choicefor the diesel.48 AA Directions Winter 2013

DRIVERMITSUBISHI MIRAGEThe reborn Mirage has a fair amountof cabin and loading space for itsclass. It’s fitted with a three cylinder1.2L petrol engine; the 58kW ofpower and the 102Nm of torque isadequate for the lightweight 890kgsub-compact hatch. The engine ismated to a CVT transmission andfuel consumption is claimed to be4.6L/100km for the LS and 4.9L/100kmfor the GLS model. The differenceis a result of the variance in wheelsize. The Mirage is one of only twovehicles in the sub $20k price rangethat has a five-star ANCAP crashtestrating. Pricing starts at $18,990for the LS; the GLS is $21,990.Good: A fuel-sipper with practicalluggage space.Not so good: Styling not as funky asthe Mirage of old.VOLKSWAGEN GOLFThe Golf VII has appealing visualqualities with evolutionary ratherthan revolutionary styling changes.New Zealand buyers are offered two1.4 litre TSI petrol engine options,with outputs of 90kW/200Nm and103kW/250Nm, as well as a pair ofdiesels; a 77kW/250Nm 1.6 litre TDIor a 110kW/320Nm 2.0 litre TDI. Allengines are lively and fuel economyis impressive; with a claimed5.2L/100km, the TSI manual is thethirstiest in the range. Pricing is alsogood, at $32,250 for the entry levelwith a six-speed manual, and $34,750for the seven-speed auto (DSG)model. The 1.6L and the 2.0L modelsare $37,250 and $43,750.Good: Class-leading fuel economyand a sharp entry price.Not so good: Safe, subtle styling.HYUNDAI SANTA FEThe new Santa Fe is a big step upfrom the model it replaces, with thelarge front grille giving it plenty ofroad presence. The suspension islocally tuned to suit New Zealandroads and extra sound dampeningkeeps road noise to a minimum.It’s offered with five or seven seatarrangements and three enginechoices – 2.4L four cylinder and 3.3LV6 petrol motors and a 2.2L diesel.All motors are mated to six-speedautomatic transmissions and all butthe 3.3L V6 are AWD. The 2.4L costs$57,990-$67,990, the 2WD 3.3L $67,990and the diesel models from $63,990to $79,990.Good: Modern design and provendiesel engine.Not so good: Priced higher than thecompetition; only one 2WD option.VW Golf5L / 100KMMitsubishi Miragewww.ancap.com.auBuying a new car?» Get advice from the experts. The AAMotoring Services Team regularly testdrive new models and makes of car. Theirdetailed, impartial reports are availableon www.aa.co.nz in the motoring section,along with ANCAP safety ratings.See our New Car Prices listing,online and on p.52-53 of this issue.4.6L / 100KMHyundai Santa Fe7.3L / 100KM» Fuel economy ratings apply tomodels illustrated. For ratings on all carsreviewed, plus many others, see www.energywise.govt.nz/tools/fuel-economywww.aadirections.co.nz 49

Tells you the costin the showroomTells you the coston the roadEvery car has two costs: the cost on the windscreen and the cost of fuellingit every year. It’s easy to budget for the cost on the windscreen, but it’s justas important to consider how much the cost of that fuel will add up to overa vehicle’s lifetime.The Fuel Economy Label gives you all the information you need to find a carthat suits your lifestyle with fuel economy that suits your pocket.Visit www.energywise.govt.nz/fuel-economy-toolThe Fuel Economy Label. All you need to know about fuel economyEEC2661/AA

DRIVERMAZDA6The new Mazda6 continues thefamiliar KODU design features, withsleek, sculptured body lines. It’s anenjoyable car to drive, well plantedto the road, quiet, comfortableand roomy, but the lift-back hasbeen dropped and the sedan andwagon body style are the onlyconfigurations available. Mazda’sSKYACTIV fuel saving technologyis introduced for the first time on theMazda6 line and is available in 2.0L114kW/210Nm and 2.5L 138kW/250Nmpetrol motors, as well as the punchy2.2L 129kW/420Nm diesel engine.All models are coupled to six-speedautomatic transmissions. The entrylevel2.0L GLX wagon starts at$45,495. Pricing for the remainder ofthe range is $40,795 to $60,795.Good: Efficient engines and sleekbody styling.Not so good: No lift-back version.FORD KUGAVisually, the Kuga looks like agrown-up Focus, which is fitting as itshares the same platform. The bulkyfive-cylinder has been dropped infavour of two four-pot engines – anEcoBoost 134kW/240Nm 1.6L petroland a 120kW/340Nm 2.0L diesel. TheKuga is only available in AWD forour market and both engines arecoupled to quick-shifting six-speedauto transmissions. It’s competitivelypriced, starting with the EcoBoostmodels at $39,990 for the Ambiente,$43,990 for the Trend and $52,990 forthe Titanium. The diesel models havea price tag of $45,990 for the Trendand $54,990 for the Titanium.Good: Nicely priced, peppy enginesand good driver-assist features.Not so good: No 2WD models forNew Zealand.KIA CERATOKia’s small sedan has grown wider,longer and its lowered rooflineprovides it with a sleek new profile.On the road it’s comfortable andon the inside it’s spacious, withconservative styling. It offers adecent 421L of luggage space andparking sensors are standard frontand rear. The new Cerato hastwo gutsy petrol engine choices: a110kW/178Nm 1.8L and the directinjection 2.0L 129kW/209Nm motor.Both powerplants are mated to sixspeedautomatic transmissions andhave the addition of steering-wheelpaddle shifters for manual gearchanging. Three models are offered:the 1.8L LX for $29,990, 1.8L EX for$33,490 and the 2.0L SX for $38,490.Good: Nicely priced and goodspecification levels.Not so good: The engine choicesclosely rival each other.Mazda66.6L / 100KMKia Cerato7.1L / 100KMFord Kuga7.7L / 100KMwww.aadirections.co.nz 51

NEW CAR PRICESL/100km* Engine kW Manual Auto L/100km* Engine kW Manual AutoL/100km* Engine kW Manual AutoAlfa Romeowww.alfaromeo.co.nzMiTo 1.4 Multiair QV 6.0 1.4 125 42,990 -Giulietta Multiair 6.0 1.4 125 46,990 49,990Giulietta QV 7.6 1.8 173 54,990 -Audiwww.audi.co.nzA1 1.4 TFSI S Tronic 5.3 1.4 90 - 39,800A1 1.4 TFSI Sport S Tronic 5.3 1.4 90 - 42,800A3 1.4 TFSI 5.8 1.4 92 - 48,400A4 Sedan 2.0 TDI 5.5 2.0 103 - 71,900A4 2.0 TFSI Quattro STron Sed 7.1 2.0 132 - 88,500A4 3.0 TDI Quattro Tip Sed 7.0 3.0 176 - 108,500A4 2.0 TDI Avant 6.0 2.0 103 - 75,900A4 2.0 TFSI Quattro Avant 7.1 2.0 132 - 92,500S4 3.0 TFSI Quattro S-Tronic 9.4 3.0 245 - 125,400RS4 4.2 FSI Quattro S-Tr. Avant 4.2 331 - 154,000 -A5 3.0 TDI Quattro 7.2 3.0 176 - 118,700A4 Allroad 2.0 TDI 6.0 2.0 130 - 88,900A5 2.0 Sportback TFSI Quattro 7.0 2.0 155 - 94,300S5 3.0 Sportback TFSI Quattro 9.4 3.0 245 - 128,900RS5 4.2 FSI Quattro S Tronic 10.8 4.2 331 - 172,700A6 3.0 TDI Quattro Sedan 8.3 3.0 150 - 121,200A6 3.0 TFSI Quattro Sedan 9.4 3.0 213 - 136,200A6 3.0 TDI Quattro Avant 6.0 3.0 180 - 141,200A6 Allroad 3.0 TDI 6.1 3.0 150 - 134,100A7 Sportback 3.0 TDI Quattro 6.0 3.0 180 - 147,000A7 Sportback 3.0 TFSI Quattro 8.2 3.0 220 - 147,000Q3 2.0 TDI Quattro 5.9 2.0 130 - 70,900Q5 2.0 TDI Quattro 6.7 2.0 125 - 89,900Q5 3.0 TDI Quattro 7.5 3.0 176 - 108,900Q7 4.2 TDI Quattro S Line 13.6 4.2 240 - 151,200A8 4.2 TDI Quattro 9.4 4.2 240 - 217,700TT Coupe 2.0 TFSI S Line 7.7 2.0 147 - 90,900TTRS Coupe 2.5 TFSI Quat Man 9.2 2.5 250 142,500 149,500BMWwww.bmw.co.nz118i Base Line 7.3 2.0 100 52,500 55,600118d Sport-Hatch Base Line 4.5 2.0 105 53,700 56,800125i Sport-Hatch M Sport 6.6 2.0 160 61,600 64,700123d Coupe SE 5.9 2.0 150 69,950 72,800118i Convertible SE 6.3 2.0 102 63,700 66,800320i Sport/Modern/Luxury 7.9 2.0 115 73,200 77,300320d Sport/Modern/Luxury 5.6 2.0 130 73,800 77,900335i Sport/Modern/Luxury 9.6 3.0 225 104,900 109,000325i Convertible 7.9 2.5 160 104,800 108,900520d SE Sedan 5.1 2.0 135 - 110,700528i SE Sedan 8.0 3.0 190 - 123,900550i SE 10.4 4.4 300 - 167,500520d Touring SE 5.7 2.0 135 - 114,000650i Coupe 10.6 4.4 300 - 218,500640d Gran Coupe 5.5 3.0 230 - 199,200750Li 11.0 4.8 270 - 234,500X1 sDrive 20d 5.8 2.0 130 66,900 71,000X3 xDrive 20d SE 7.0 2.0 130 86,700 89,800X3 xDrive 30d SE 8.6 3.0 160 - 110,400X5 xDrive 30d SE 8.7 3.0 173 - 125,000X5 xDrive 40d SE 7.5 3.0 225 - 152,000X6 xDrive 50i 12.5 4.4 300 - 176,000Z4 Roadster sDrive35i 9.4 3.0 225 126,500 -Cherywww.cheryauto.co.nzJ1 6.7 1.3 62 10,990 -J3 8.9 1.6 87 15,990 -J11 8.9 2.0 102 - 21,990Chryslerwww.chrysler.co.nz300 Limited V6 Diesel 7.2 3.0 177 - 62,990300C Luxury Petrol 9.7 3.6 210 - 67,990300C SRT-8 14.0 6.4 317 - 87,990Grand Voyager RT Ltd 8.4 3.7 142 - 84,990Citroenwww.citroen.co.nzC3 1.6 VTR Exclusive 6.9 1.6 88 - 25,990DS3 DSTYLE 6.9 1.6 88 - 36,990DS3 DSPORT Turbo 6.7 1.6 115 38,990 -C4 Turbo EGS Exclusive 7.0 1.6 115 - 39,990C4 Grand Picasso 2.0 HDi 6.8 2.0 103 - 44,990DS4 Auto 6.4 1.6 120 - 44,990DS4 Sport 6.4 1.6 147 48,990 -DS5 Sport 7.3 1.6 115 - 59,990C5 2.0 HDi FAP 6.0 2.0 120 - 48,990C5 3.0 V6 HDi FAP 7.4 3.0 177 - 67,990C5 2.0 HDi FAP Tourer 6.0 2.0 120 - 52,990Berlingo 5.8 1.6 66 29,990 -Daihatsuwww.toyota.co.nzDaihatsu Sirion Hatch 5.8 1.3 64 18,990 19,990Daihatsu Sirion SX 6.7 1.5 76 - 23,490Daihatsu Terios 4X4 7.7 1.5 77 26,240 27,250Dodgewww.dodge.co.nzJourney SXT 10.4 3.6 206 - 39,990Journey R/T 10.4 3.6 206 - 46,990Fiatwww.fiat.co.nz500 Lounge 1.4 6.3 1.4 74 26,990 29,490500c Convertible 6.3 1.4 74 29,990 32,490500 Abarth Esseesse 6.5 1.4 118 42,990 -500c Abarth Esseesse 6.5 1.4 118 - 46,990695 Tributo Ferrari 6.5 1.4 132 - 46,979Fordwww.ford.co.nzFiesta 1.6 LX Hatch 6.1 1.6 89 23,990 25,490Fiesta 1.6 Zetec Hatch 6.1 1.6 89 26,990 -Focus Ambient Petr.Wagon 6.4 1.6 92 - 34,840Focus Trend Diesel Wagon 5.3 2.0 120 - 40,840Focus Trend Petrol 6.6 2.0 125 - 35,340Focus Sport Petrol 6.7 2.0 125 - 42,340Focus Titanium Petrol 6.6 2.0 125 - 47,340Focus ST EcoBoost Hatch 7.2 2.0 184 52,840 -Mondeo 2.0 Hatch LX Diesel 7.1 2.0 103 - 46,340Mondeo 2.0 Zetec Diesel Hatch 7.1 2.0 103 - 50,340Mondeo 2.0 Titanium Diesel 5.6 2.0 120 - 55,340Kuga Ambient 7.7 1.6 134 - 39,990Kuga Trend Diesel 6.2 2.0 120 - 43,990Kuga Titanium EcoBoost 7.7 1.6 134 - 52,990Territory TX RWD Petrol 10.8 4.0 195 - 49,990Territory TS RWD Diesel 8.2 2.7 140 - 59,990Territory TS Diesel AWD 8.8 2.7 140 - 64,990Territory Titanium AWD Diesel 8.8 2.7 140 - 69,990Falcon MkII XT Sedan EcoBoost 8.1 2.0 179 - 48,490Falcon MkII XR6 9.9 4.0 195 - 53,990Falcon MkII G6E 9.9 4.0 195 - 58,990FPV F6 12.3 4.0 310 - 77,990FPV GT 13.7 5.0 335 - 87,990Great Wallwww.ateco.co.nzX-240 4WD 10.3 2.4 100 28,990 -X-200 7.6 2.0 105 31,990 34,990Holdenwww.holden.co.nzBarina Hatch 5dr 7.0 1.6 77 22,990 24,990Barina Spark Hatch CD 5.6 1.2 59 16,990 18,490Cruze CD Hatch/ Sedan 7.0 1.8 104 - 30,900Cruze CD Sedan Turbo 1.4 6.9 1.4 103 - 33,900Cruze CD 2.0 Sedan Diesel 5.7 2.0 120 - 35,900Cruze SRi-V Turbo 1.4 6.4/6.9 1.4 103 - 39,400VF Commodore Evoke Sedan 8.3 3.0 190 - 49,990VF Commodore SV6 9.0 3.6 210 - 55,490VF Commodore SS 11.5 6.0 260 - 61,490VF Calais-V V6 9.0 3.6 210 - 66,790VF Calais-V V8 11.7 6.0 260 - 72,390VF Caprice V V8 12.1 6.0 210 - 85,490VE Ute SV6 9.0 3.6 195 - 49,000VE Ute SS 11.5 6.0 270 - 55,400VF Sportwagon Evoke 8.6 3.0 190 - 52,390VF Sportwagon SV6 9.3 3.6 210 - 57,890VF Sportwagon SS-V V8 11.8 6.0 260 - 74,290VF Sportwagon Calais-V V8 11.7 6.0 260 - 74,690Captiva 5 2WD 9.1 2.4 123 38,490 39,990Captiva 5 2WD LTZ Diesel 8.1 2.2 135 - 47,990Captiva 7 SX AWD 2.4 9.1 2.4 123 - 41,890Captiva 7 LX V6 AWD 11.3 3.0 190 - 55,890Captiva 7 SX Diesel 2WD 8.1 2.2 135 - 45,890Captiva LX Diesel AWD 8.3 2.2 135 - 57,890Hondawww.honda.co.nzJazz 1.3S 5.8 1.3 73 24,700 27,500Jazz Sport 6.7 1.5 88 - 29,500City S 1.5 6.3 1.5 88 - 29,500Civic 1.8S 6.7 1.8 104 - 33,900Civic 2.0S 7.5 2.0 114 - 38,500Civic IMA 4.4 2.0 82 - 39,990Euro Civic S 6.1/6.5 1.8 104 32,900 34,900Euro Civic L 6.5 1.8 104 - 38,900Insight SX Hybrid 4.6 1.3 72 - 35,600Insight E Hybrid 4.6 1.3 72 - 38,800Insight N 4.6 1.3 72 - 40,000CRZ SR 5.0/4.7 5/4.7 91 42,000 42,000CRZ Sport 5.0/4.7 5/4.7 91 44,100 44,100Accord Euro SN 8.9 2.4 148 - 43,700Accord Euro Tourer L 9.1 2.4 148 - 53,200Accord V6 VL 10 3.5 202 - 56,600Odyssey S 9.3 2.4 133 - 47,000CRV S 7.7 2.0 114 37,900 39,900CRV Sport N 8.7 2.4 140 - 51,700Hyundaiwww.hyundai.co.nzi20 GL 6.0/6.4 1.4 73 25,490 25,990i20 GLS 6.0/6.4 1.4 73 25,990 26,990Accent Hatch 1.6 6.4 1.6 91 - 31,990Accent 1.6 Elite 6.4 1.6 91 - 35,990i30 1.8 6.5 1.8 110 34,490 35,990i30 1.6 CRDi Elite 4.5 1.6 94 - 43,990i30 Wagon 1.6 6.7/6.9 1.6 88 36,490 37,990i30 Wagon 1.6 CRDi 4.5/5.6 1.6 94 40,490 41,990Elantra 7.1 1.8 110 - 35,990Elantra Elite 7.1 1.8 110 - 39,990Veloster 1.6 GDI 6.5 1.6 103 - 39,990Veloster Elite 1.6 GDI 6.5 1.6 103 - 44,990Veloster GDI Turbo 6.8/7.6 1.6 150 49,990 49,990i45 2.4 7.9 2.4 148 - 45,490i45 2.4 Elite 7.9 2.4 148 - 49,990i40 Sedan 1.7 CRDi 5.6 1.7 100 - 46,990i40 Wagon 2.0 Elite 7.5 2.0 130 - 49,990i40 Wagon 1.7 CRDi 5.6 1.7 100 47,490 48,990i40 Wagon 1.7 CRDi Elite Ltd 5.6 1.7 100 - 59,990ix35 2.0 2WD 8.5 2.0 122 - 40,490ix35 2.4 9.0 2.4 130 - 45,490ix35 2.0R CRDi 7.5 2.0 135 - 50,990ix35 2.0R CRDi Elite 7.5 2.0 135 - 54,990Santa Fe 2.4 7Seat 9.0 2.4 141 - 60,990Santa Fe 2.2R CRDi 7S 7.3 2.2 145 - 67,990Santa Fe 3.3 V6 7S 2WD 9.6 3.3 199 - 67,990Santa Fe 2.2R Elite Ltd 7.3 2.2 145 - 79,990H1 iMax Van Elite 8 Seat 8.5 2.4 128 - 54,990H1 iMax CRDi Elite 8 Seat 8.5 2.5 125 56,990 58,990Jaguarwww.jaguar.co.nzXJ 3.0D Premium Luxury 6.1 3.0 202 - 155,000XJ 5.0 V8 SC 11.6 5.0 346 - 200,000XF 2.0 i4 Luxury 8.9 2.0 177 - 90,000XF 2.2D Luxury 5.2 2.2 147 - 90,000XF 3.0D Luxury 6.0 3.0 177 - 100,000XFR 11.6 5.0 375 - 160,000XK 5.0 V8 Coupe 11.3 4.2 224 - 175,000XKR-S Coupe 12.3 5.0 405 - 260,000XKR Convertible 12.3 5.0 375 - 210,000Jeepwww.jeep.co.nzCherokee KK Ltd Diesel 9.4 2.8 130 - 58,990Cherokee KK Ltd Petrol 11.7 3.7 151 - 53,990Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.6 V6 11.0 3.6 210 - 64,990Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD 8.3 3.0 177 - 69,990Grand Jeep Cherokee Ltd 5.7 14.1 5.7 259 - 86,990Grand Jeep Cherokee SRT8 14.1 6.4 344 - 109,490Grand Cherokee Overland CRD 8.3 3.0 177 - 96,990Patriot Sport CVT 9.7 2.4 125 - 35,990Patriot 2.4 Ltd CVT 8.7 2.4 125 - 39,990Wrangler Rubicon Petrol 2dr 11.6 3.6 146 - 57,990Wrangler Renegade CRD 4dr 11.7 2.8 130 - 62,990Kiawww.kia.co.nzPicanto LX 5.3 1.25 64 18,590 18,990Picanto EX 5.6 1.25 64 - 20,990Rio LX Hatch 6.8 1.6 82 22,990 23,490Rio EX Hatch 6.8 1.6 82 - 25,790Soul Petrol 6.5 1.6 91 - 30,490Cerato LX Sedan/Hatch 7.9 2.0 115 - 28,990Cerato SX Sedan/Hatch 7.9 2.0 115 - 34,990Cerato Koup SX 7.7 2.0 115 - 34,990Optima EX GDI CVT 7.9 2.4 148 - 46,990Optima Ltd GDI CVT 7.9 2.4 148 - 50,990Sportage LX Urban 4X2 8.7 2.0 130 - 34,240Sportage Ltd AWD 9.2 2.4 130 - 47,240Sportage R EX Diesel 7.5 2.0 122 - 48,240Sportage R Ltd Diesel 7.5 2.0 122 - 52,240Sorento R Urban Diesel4X2 7S 7.2 2.2 145 - 50,690Sorento R LX Diesel 4x4 7S 6.6 2.2 145 - 53,690Sorento R Ltd Diesel 4X4 7S 7.4 2.2 145 - 64,490Carnival EX Diesel 9.0 2.9 134 - 49,990Carnival EX V6 12.8 3.8 182 - 45,990Land Roverwww.landrover.co.nzDefender 90 Wagon 10.0 2.4 90 68,500 -Defender 110 D/Cab Pick-Up SE 11.0 2.4 90 71,500 -Freelander 2 TD4 7.5 2.2 110 - 66,000Freelander 2 Si4 Turbo Petrol 9.6 2.0 177 - 66,000Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE 10.2 3.0 180 - 124,000Range Rover Evoque TD4 2dr 6.5 2.2 119 - 80,000Range Rover Evoque SD4 Dynam 6.5 2.2 140 - 103,000Range Rover Dynamic Si4 Dynam 8.7 2.0 180 - 103,000Range Rover Sport TDV6 10.2 2.7 140 - 128,000Range Rover Sport 5.0V8 s/c 14.9 5.0 375 - 179,000Range Rover TDV6 HSE 7.5 3.0 190 - 170,000Range Rover SDV8 Vogue 8.7 4.0 250 - 195,000Lexuswww.lexus.co.nzCT200h 1.8 Hybrid 4.1 1.8 100 - 55,000CT200h 1.8 Hybrid Ltd 4.1 1.8 100 - 71,100CT200h 1.8 Hybrid F Sport 4.1 1.8 100 - 72,500IS250 9.1 2.5 153 - 63,790IS250 Ltd 9.1 2.5 153 - 80,790IS250 Convertible Limited 9.3 2.5 153 - 97,400IS350 Ltd 9.4 3.5 233 - 96,000IS F 11.4 5.0 311 - 145,900GS250 9.3 2.5 154 - 103,400GS350 9.7 3.5 233 - 118,40052 AA Directions Winter 2013

→For a full, up-to-date list of new car prices, see www.aa.co.nzL/100km* Engine kW Manual AutoL/100km* Engine kW Manual Auto L/100km* Engine kW Manual AutoGS350 F Sport 9.3 3.5 233 - 126,400GS450h Hybrid 7.9 3.5 250 - 135,400LS460 11.1 4.6 280 - 199,500LS600hL 9.3 5.0 290 - 280,300RX350 Crossover 12.3 3.5 203 - 101,400RX450h Hybrid Crossover SE 6.4 3.5 183 - 125,400LX570 14.5 5.7 280 - 196,900Mazdawww.mazda.co.nz2 Classic 6.4 1.5 76 23,245 24,6452 Sport 6.4 1.5 76 25,155 26,5553 GLX Hatch 8.2 2.0 104 - 32,7953 SP25 Hatch/Sedan 8.6 2.5 115 - 41,1953 GSE Hatch Skyactiv 6.2 2.0 113 - 37,3953 MPS Hatch 10.0 2.3 185 49,195 -6 GLX Sedan 2.2 Diesel 5.4 2.2 129 - 49,0956 GSX Sedan 6.6 2.5 138 - 49,7956 2.5 Ltd 6.6 2.5 138 - 58,5956 2.2 Ltd Diesel 5.4 2.2 129 - 60,7956 Wagon 2.0 GLX 6.0 2.0 114 - 45,4956 Wagon 2.2 Diesel GLX 5.4 2.0 129 - 49,0956 Wagon 2.5 GSX 6.6 2.2 138 - 49,7956 Wagon 2.2 Diesel Ltd 5.4 2.2 129 - 60,795MX-5 Roadster Leather 8.5 2.0 118 51,100 -MX-5 Coupe Leather 8.5 2.0 118 55,100 57,150CX-5 GLX FWD 6.4 2.0 114 - 39,695CX-5 GSX AWD 6.9 2.0 114 - 41,495CX-5 GSX AWD 7.4 2.5 138 - 44,945CX-5 GSX Diesel AWD 5.7 2.2 129 - 47,095CX-5 Ltd Diesel AWD 5.7 2.2 129 - 56,495CX-9 11.3 3.7 204 - 65,490Mercedeswww.mercedes-benz.co.nzRefer to Mercedes websiteMiniwww.mini.co.nzMini Hatch Ray 5.4 1.6 72 29,200 31,200Mini Hatch Cooper 5.4 1.6 90 36,200 39,200Mini Hatch Cooper D 3.8 1.6 82 40,700 43,700Mini Hatch Cooper S 5.8 1.6 135 44,200 44,200Mini Cooper Countryman 6.0 1.6 90 43,700 49,900Mini Cooper Countryman D 4.4(5.6) 1.6(2.0) 82(110) 46,800 52,900Cooper Countryman D All4 4.9(6.0) 1.6(2.0) 82(110) 49,800 55,900Mini Cooper Countryman S All4 7.3 1.6 135 54,500 60,900Mini Cooper Clubman 5.5 1.6 90 41,200 44,200Mini Cooper Convertible 5.7 1.6 90 46,200 49,200Mini Cooper Convertible S 6.0 1.6 135 54,200 57,200Mini Coupe JCW 7.1 1.6 155 62,200 65,200Mitsubishiwww.mitsubishi-motors.co.nzi-MiEV 0 electric 49 - 59,990Mirage 4.6 1.2 - 19,990 21,990Lancer ES Hatch/Sedan 7.6 2.0 115 - 30,690Lancer SEi Hatch/Sedan 7.3 2.0 115 - 36,990Lancer VRX Hatch/Sedan 8.7 2.4 127 - 40,890ASX LS 2WD 8.1 2.0 112 - 36,690ASX LS 4WD 8.1 2.0 112 - 39,690Outlander LS 4WD CVT 7.5 2.4 126 - 43,990Outlander VRX 2.4 CVT 7seat 7.5 2.4 126 - 54,490Outlander VR 2.2D 4WD 7seat 5.8 2.2 112 - 49,990Challenger GLS 4WD 9.8 2.5 133 - 58,990Challenger Exceed 4WD 7seat 9.8 2.5 133 - 63,990Pajero LWB 3.2 DIDC GLS 9.2 3.2 150 - 77,090Pajero LWB 3.2 DIDC Exceed 9.2 3.2 150 - 87,590Nissanwww.nissan.co.nzMicra ST 6.6 1.5 75 - 22,600Micra Ti 6.6 1.4 75 - 24,100Pulsar ST Sedan 6.7 1.8 96 - 22,600Pulsar Ti Sedan 6.7 1.8 96 - 33,490Juke ST 6.3 1.6 86 - 31,990Juke Ti 6.3 1.6 86 - 33,990Qashqai ST Hatch 7.9 2.0 102 - 37,700Qashqai TI Hatch 7.9 2.0 102 - 40,800Maxima 350 10.2 3.5 185 - 52,990Leaf 0 Emissions 100% electric 0 electric 90 - 69,700370Z Coupe 10.4 3.7 245 76,200 77,200GT-R -0 3.8 352 - 189,900X-Trail ST-L 4WD Petrol 9.5 2.5 217 - 43,990X-Trail TI Leather 4WD Petrol 9.5 2.5 132 - 49,990X-Trail TS 2.0 Diesel 8.1 2.0 110 - 46,990Murano 10.9 3.5 191 - 65,950Pathfinder TI Leather TDI 10.1 2.5 128 - 76,900Patrol 14.5 5.6 198 - 114,000Peugeotwww.peugeot.co.nz208 Active 4.5 1.2 60 - 23,990208 Allure 5dr 6.7 1.6 88 - 28,990308 CC 7.7 1.6 115 - 45,990308 Access 7.2 1.6 88 - 29,990308 Allure 6.7 1.6 115 - 35,990308 Allure Diesel 6.1 2.0 120 - 38,990308 Active SW Diesel 6.7 2.0 120 - 39,900508 Active Petrol 6.3 1.6 88 - 46,990508 Allure HDi 4.9 2.0 120 - 54,990508 SW HDi GT 5.0 2.2 120 - 68,990Partner HDi 5.8 1.6 66 29,990 -3008 Active 6.7 1.6 115 - 36,9903008 Sport 7.8 1.6 115 - 39,9903008 Sport HDi 6.6 2.0 120 - 42,9904008 Active 2WD CVT 7.9 2.0 110 - 37,9904008 Allure 2WD CVT 7.9 2.0 110 - 39,9904008 Feline 4WD CVT 8.1 2.0 110 - 45,990RCZ 7.3 1.6 115 49,990 49,990Porschewww.porsche.co.nzBoxster 8.2 2.7 195 120,300 126,300Cayman 8.2 2.7 202 120,900 126,900911 Carrera 9.0 3.4 257 220,000 228,000911 Carrera 4S 9.5 3.4 257 265,000 273,000Cayenne 9.9 3.6 220 - 139,500Cayenne Diesel 7.2 3.0 180 - 140,500Cayenne Hybrid 8.2 3.0 245/279 - 197,500Cayenne Turbo 11.5 4.8 368 - 270,000Panamera S 8.7 3.0 309 - 260,000Panamera Turbo 10.2 4.8 368 - 350,000Renaultwww.renault.co.nzMegane Hatch 8.2 2.0 102 31,990 34,990Megane Coupe – Cabriolet 7.9 2.0 103 - 54,990Megane Renault Sport RS265Cup 8.7 2.0 184 53,990 -Megane RD265 Cup Trophee 8.7 2.0 184 59,990 -Koleos 2.0 DCI 4x4 8.3 2.0 110 - 49,990Koleos 2.5 4x2 9.3 2.5 126 - 37,990Fluence 7.8 2.0 103 - 34,990Skodawww.skoda.co.nzFabia Hatch TSI 77 7.5 1.4 77 - 23,900Fabia vRS 6.2 1.4 132 - 35,500Yeti 2.0 TDI 4X4 6.5 2.0 103 45,500 48,000Octavia Liftback TSI 90 6.3 1.4 90 34,500 37,000Octavia Liftback TDI 77 4.7 1.4 77 36,500 39,000Octavia Liftback TSI 118 6.6 1.8 118 - 41,500Octavia Wagon TSI 118 6.6 1.8 118 - 44,000Octavia Scout 4X4 6.2 2.0 103 49,000 51,500Superb Sedan TSI 118 7.1 1.8 118 - 46,000Superb Sedan TDI 125 6.0 2.0 125 - 59,500Superb Wagon TDI 103 6.0 2.0 103 - 51,000Superb Wagon TDI 125 6.1 2.0 125 - 62,000Superb V6 4X4 10.2 3.6 191 - 69,000SsangYongwww.ssangyong.co.nzKorando Sports 4X2 7.3 2.0 110 29,990 32,990Korando SPR 4X4 TDi 7.5 2.0 129 - 44,990Rexton Teammate 4X4 Tdi 9.0/9.2 2.7 121 39,990 42,990Rexton W 4X4 9.2 2.7 121 - 49,990Actyon Workmate 2WD Tdi 7.6/8.1 2.0 114 29,990 31,990Actyon Workmate 4X4 TDi 7.3 2.0 114 32,990 34,990Action Sports 4X4 Tdi 7.6/8.1 2.0 114 39,990 41,990Action Sports SPR 4X4 Tdi 8.1 2.0 114 - 47,990Stavic 2WD Tdi 7.8 2.0 114 - 39,990Stavic 4WD Tdi 8.1 2.0 114 - 44,990Subaruwww.subaru.co.nzBRZ GT 7.8 2.0 147 48,990 49,990Impreza 2.0i-SL Hatch/Sedan 6.8 2.0 110 44,990 46,990WRX STi 10.5 2.5 221 69,990 69,990XV 7.0/7.3 2.0 110 38,990 40,990XV 2.0i-L 7.0 2.0 110 44,990 44,990XV 2.0i-S 7.0 2.0 110 48,990 48,990Forester 2.0 Diesel 5.7 2.0 110 49,990 -Forester 9.6 2.5 126 - 44,990Forester Sport 9.6 2.5 126 - 47,990Legacy 2.5i Sport Sed/Wagon 8.9 235 123 - 48,990Legacy 2.5 Premium Sed/Wagon 8.9 2.5 123 - 53,490Legacy GT 2.5i BSpec Prem 8.9 2.5 123 - 64,990Outback 2.0 Diesel 5.8 2.0 110 57,990 59,990Outback 2.5i 8.9 2.5 123 - 49,990Outback 2.5i Premium 8.9 2.5 123 - 54,990Outback 3.6 Premium 10.3 3.0 191 - 69,990Tribeca 11.6 3.6 190 - 69,990Suzukiwww.suzuki.co.nzAlto GL 4.8 1.0 50 17,250 19,550Splash GLX 5.1 1.2 69 18,990 20,500Swift GL 5.5 1.4 70 19,990 -Swift GLX 5.5 1.4 70 22,500 23,990Swift Ltd 6.2 1.4 70 23,500 24,990Swift Diesel 4.2 1.3 55 25,990 -Swift Sport 6.5 1.6 100 27,500 28,990SX4 2.0 GLX 2WD Sporthatch 7.3 2.0 107 25,990 27,990SX4 2.0 LTD 2WD Sporthatch 7.3 2.0 107 - 29,990SX4 2.0 GLX i-AWD Hatch 8.7 2.0 107 27,990 29,990SX4 2.0 Sedan Ltd 8.7 2.0 107 - 26,990Kizashi 2.4 GLX 7.9 2.4 131 35,990 37,990Kizashi 2.4 Ltd 7.9 2.4 131 41,990 43,990Kizashi Sport 7.9 2.4 131 - 48,500Jimny JX 7.2 1.3 63 19,990 -Jimny Sierra 7.2 1.3 63 22,990 24,500Grand Vitara 2.4 3dr 8.8 2.4 122 31,690 33,190Grand Vitara 2.4 JLX 5dr 9.9 2.4 122 37,990 39,500Grand Vitara 2.4 Ltd 5dr 9.9 2.4 122 43,990 -Toyotawww.toyota.co.nzYaris 1.3 3dr 6.5 1.3 64 - 23,580Yaris 1.3 5dr 6.5 1.3 64 24,080 25,580Yaris 1.5 Sedan 6.7 1.5 80 - 30,830Corolla GX Hatch 7.1/6.6 1.8 103 33,490 34,990Corolla GLX Hatch 76.6 1.8 103 - 37,490Corolla Levin ZR 6.6 1.8 103 - 43,690Corolla GX Wagon 5.8 1.5 80 30,780 32,780Gorolla GLX Sedan 7.4 1.8 103 - 38,99086 7.8/7.1 2.0 147 42,286 43,286GT86 7.8/7.1 2.0 147 47,286 48,286GT86 TRD Special Edition 7.8/7.1 2.0 147 68,786 69,786Prius C 3.9 1.573.6(54) - 31,280Prius C S-Tech 3.9 1.573.6(54) - 35,280Prius Hybrid 3.9 1.873/100 - 50,280Prius v 4.1 1.873/100 - 51,280Prius v s-Tech 4.1 1.873/100 55,480Avensis Tourer 8.0 2.0 110 - 47,990Camry GL 7.8 2.5 133 - 44,990Camry Atara S Sedan 7.8 2.5 133 - 48,890Camry Atara SX Sedan 7.8 2.5 133 - 51,490Camry Hybrid 6.0 2.4110/140 - 50,990Camry Hybrid i-Tech 6.0 2.4110/140 - 56,890Aurion V6 AT-X 9.9 3.5 204 - 49,690Aurion V6 Sportivo SX6 Sedan 9.9 3.5 204 - 51,790Aurion V6 Touring Sedan 9.9 3.5 204 - 52,090Previa 2.4 MPV Wagon 9.5 2.4 125 - 65,380RAV4 2WD GX 7.4 2.0 107 - 39,990RAV4 2WD GXL 7.4 2.0 107 - 44,490RAV4 AWD GXL 8.5 2.5 132 - 51,490RAV4 AWD Ltd 8.5 2.5 132 - 60,790RAV4 AWD Diesel AWD 6.5 2.2 110 - 53,490Highlander V6 7S 2WD 11.0 3.5 201 - 55,280Highlander V6 7S 4WD 11.6 3.5 201 - 59,790Highlander V6 LTD 7S 4WD 11.6 3.5 201 - 67,790FJ Cruiser V6 Petrol 11.4 4.0 200 - 71,280Prado 3.0 GX Diesel 8.5 3.0 127 80,780 82,380Prado 3.0 VX Ltd 8.5 3.0 127 - 107,980Land Cruiser 200 Wagon VX 4.5 10.3 4.5 195 - 125,790Volkswagenwww.volkswagen.co.nzPolo 1.4 5.8 1.4 63 22,990 25,990Golf VII TSI BMT Comfortline 5.2/5.0 1.4 90 32,250 34,750Golf VII TSI BMT Comfortline 5.0 2.0 118 - 37,250Golf VII TSI BMT Highline 5.0 2.0 118 - 39,750Golf VII TDI BMT Highline 4.4 2.0 103 - 43,750Golf Cabriolet TSI 90kW 6.3 1.4 90 - 44,500Beetle TSI 6.2 1.4 118 - 46,500Passat TSI 118kW 7.1 1.8 118 - 47,750Passat TDI 125kW 5.3 2.0 125 - 58,250Passat Wagon TSI 118kW 7.1 1.8 118 - 50,250Passat Wagon TDI 125kW 5.3 2.0 125 - 60,750Passat Alltrack 7.5 2.0 125 - 59,990Passat CC TDI 125kW 6.1 2.0 125 - 62,250Passat CC V6 4 Motion R-Line 10.1 3.5 220 - 74,000Touareg V6 TDI 150kW 7.4 3.0 150 - 89,750Touareg V6 TDi V6 180kW 9.9 3.0 180 - 108,000Tiguan TSI 132kW 5.4 2.0 132 - 49,500Tiguan TDI 103kW 6.4 2.0 103 - 54,000Volvowww.volvo.co.nzS60 T4 8.0 2.0 149 - 59,990S60 D3 5.8 2.0 121 - 68,990S60 T6 10.2 3.0 227 - 79,990V40 D4 4.9/5.3 2.0 130 49,990 54,990V40 T4 7.6 2.0 132 - 52,990V60 T4 7.8 1.6 132 - 62,990V60 D3 6.0 2.0 120 - 71,990V60 T6 10.3 3.0 224 - 82,990XC60 D5 8.3 2.4 151 - 79,990XC60 T6 11.9 3.0 225 - 86,990XC70 D5 Twin Turbo 8.3 2.4 151 - 83,990XC90 3.2 AWD Executive 11.8 3.2 175 - 89,990XC90 D5 AWD (all models) 8.2 2.4 136 - 89,990*Fuel consumption is internationally measured in litres per 100km (L/100km).These models have been rated by ANCAP. See www.ancap.com.au for more information on the rating.AA ROAD TESTED? To read reviews of new carsto the market, go online: www.aa.co.nz/reviewswww.aadirections.co.nz 53

ExclusiveAA MemberCar Rental Offer!aa.co.nz/carrental0508 73 70 70Visit your nearest AA Centreor Thrifty Branch*Terms and conditions apply. Valid for bookings made online at aa.co.nz/carrental, at Thrifty Branches and AA Centres, or by calling 0508 73 70 70. $69 all-inclusive offer is valid in conjunction with a minimum 3 day hire. The advertised rateincludes rental of a Toyota Yaris (or similar), GST, nil excess insurance and the airport fee. Valid at Thrifty New Zealand locations (excluding New Plymouth) until 30 September 2013. Vehicle upgrades to a Toyota Corolla (or similar) available for$10 per day, and Toyota Camry (or similar) at $20 per day. 1 to 2 day ‘risk-free’ rental rates also available. Promotion code ‘AARISKFRE’ must be quoted when making a reservation. Offer valid on Toyota Yaris (or similar), Toyota Corolla (or similar)and Toyota Camry (or similar) car classes only. Offer valid exclusively for New Zealand AA Members; proof of Membership will be required. Offer is subject to vehicle availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion,corporate or wholesale rate. Offer excludes additional optional extras including GPS and one way rental fees. All rentals must meet the standard age, drivers’ license and credit requirements of Thrifty. Standard Thrifty terms and conditions apply.

Keeping New Zealanders XXXXXXXX movingTravellerLynley DoddCreator of New Zealand favourite Hairy MaclaryPHOTOGRAPHY: PETER JAMES QUINNMy favourite areas are Otago andDunedin. Dunedin, because of familyconnections, and the Otago Lakesdistrict for the glorious scenery.Dunedin still has that old feelabout it. I’m not keen on rapid changeand I love old buildings – there are alot of nostalgic things about Dunedin.We tend to go there and thenhead up to the lakes to revel in thelandscapes. I’ve always saidthat the landscape is so dramatic,the sheer scale of it dwarfs anyhuman disturbance. Everythingseems to be completely squashedby the fact that the landscapeis so amazing. I love that area.If all the family were there, I’d bequite happy to live down there. Mindyou, I’d need a nice warm house! ←www.aadirections.co.nz 55

ROADTRIPTHE LONG ANDWINDING ROADOn the eve of its 25th anniversary, Karl Puschmann drives the iconic Southern Scenic RouteABEAT ALONG fromQueenstown’sRemarkables ski fieldsstands a smudgybrown road sign. Likemuch of the South it’s no nonsenseand to the point: ‘Southern ScenicRoute starts here. Follow symbol’.With no itinerary and no reservations,this doubles as a wonderfully concisesummation of what could loosely bedubbed my plan – over three daysI will simply follow the symbolsand see what happens.The deep blue of Lake Wakatipuwhich accompanies you out ofQueenstown soon vanishes, leavingonly the grey road to divide the gingerstainedgrassland. The surroundingfields casually lull into pudgy squatmounds, all covered in haphazardand irregular indentations, like someclumsy potter has left his oafish pawprints all over them. Further back,the snow-capped ranges resemblea bowl of vanilla ice cream slowlymelting over a big ol’ scoop ofchocolate. With this thought in mind,I pull over at a cafe in Garston andhead straight for the freezer.The clashing mix of procedure andchaos suggested by the WildernessScientific Reserve appeals. There’s noone around – scientific or otherwise– and the place screams in solitarysilence. According to a sign in theobservational tower the view hasn’tchanged since the Ice Age, 8,000 to10,000 years ago. The place feels oldand exotic and strange, and not at allhow New Zealand usually feels. It isunusually disconcerting, so I leave.In an immaculately quaint cemetery,just shy of the Tuatapere ScenicReserve, I discover the answer to oneof the most head scratching questionsof the modern age. I’ve stopped fora bit of a snoop when, suddenly, acocky chook darts out from behinda tombstone, giving me one heckof a fright. It zips across the grass,glances back at me, then struts coollyacross the tarmac. What happensnext is astounding, but what thatchicken does when it crosses theroad is a secret that shall remainwith Tuatapere’s graves.There’s something about thestretch of road where Fiordland’sfarmlands dissolve into the roughand tumble of the Southern Oceanthat compels you to take a break.The exact spot is on the right, halfwayPHOTOGRAPHY: KARL PUSCHMANN56 AA Directions Winter 2013

ROADTRIPCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Pudgy mountainssouth of Queenstown; the route's humblebeginnings; McLean Falls in Catlins Forest Park.NEXT PAGE: A grim memorial; taking a break.up a languorous incline that followsthe coast just outside Orepuki. It’scalled McCracken’s Rest and it marksthe extreme south-western pointof New Zealand’s highway system.This is neat, but the real attractionis the view it affords over the wildocean waters of Te Waewae Bay.I hang around a while. The lonetraveller on the lone road, sombrelyreflecting in dusk’s hazy glow, lookingfor answers in the ocean’s endlesshorizon. But then a truck roars pastobnoxiously, breaking my reverieand signalling it is time to crack onto Invercargill before the southdrowns in deep stouty darkness.Leaving Invercargill is glorious.This is no slight, but rather commentthat day two of my journey is anabsolute beaut. The beaming whitesun illuminates the landscapebrilliantly and I wonder if the bitinglybrisk air is somehow accentuatingthe light. The farmlands zippingpast the window are a lush, vibrantgreen, and are filled with whitemarshmallow sheep that look likethey’ve just been dropped into a bowlof lime jelly. It’s an incredibly pleasantsegue into the windy mountains ofthe South’s famed Catlins.After falling victim to some typicallydry Southern humour at New Zealand’sQUEENSTOWNTE ANAUWANAKAGOREINVERCARGILLSTEWART ISLANDCATLINSCROMWELLDUNEDINSURAT BAYOAMARU“The place feels old,exotic, strange. Andnot at all how NewZealand usuallyfeels. It is unusuallydisconcerting.“very own Niagara Falls, I driveover to the neighbouring Curio Bay.From a hilltop vantage point, I watchfrothy white breakers lash violentlyat the rocks, flip-flopping bunches ofthick murky seaweed around witheach pounding. Up here the heavyair is thick with salt and wind and,although I know it will be much worseat the bottom, I decide to venturedown to the shore to see some ofthe Bay’s attractions.Having no idea what a petrified forestlooks like, it comes as a surprise torealize I’m standing in one and notjust on loggy looking rocks. The forestpiques my interest but I'd clambereddown to the shore to try and spot theyellow-eyed penguin colony thatmakes its home in this part of the bay.During my descent there are plentyof instructional, bossy signposts (‘Donot approach’, ‘Keep distance’), so myhopes of seeing this rarest of speciesare high. And sadly misguided.After scaling and slipping overslimy rocks for a spell, then sittingquietly for a bit, my disappointmentslowly grows as it dawns on me thatI won’t be seeing dickybird. I get up,slip again, and leave.There’s no more dismal a sight thanwhen you’re sat in the driver’s seatof a brand new Motorsport BMW X3,cruising happily along the open road,and you see a sluggish logging truckup ahead, wheezing its way up asteep, windy hill. Rather than torturemyself by trailing slowly behindthe brute, I opt to leave the SouthernScenic Route to its mundanebusiness and go for a walk.At first you don’t notice the silence.Then all you hear is the ruckus. Birdschirping above, weird scurryingnoises deep in the thicket, thegentle crunch of your ridiculouslyinappropriate footwear on theloose gravel path, and an ominousthunder growing fearsomely involume with each step. It’s easy tolet your imagination run wild on thepath to Matai Falls. Aside from theobviousness of the walkway, the restof the surroundings look positivelyprehistoric or tribal. A chargingdinosaur or chucked spear both seementirely plausible. The damp hangsheavy, only the most determined ofsunbeams able to force their waythrough the towering canopy of thisregenerating podocarp/broadleafforest. There are two waterfalls tosee along this one path. Both arewww.aadirections.co.nz 57

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ROADTRIPPHOTOGRAPHY: KARL PUSCHMANNspectacular, both are thunderouslyloud. I watch the water tumblingdown, incessant and reckless, andwonder if, like a human doing abungie, the lunging water is whitedue to its fear.After 10 minutes walking along anarrow trail through shoulder-highgrass and hurtling winds, you’redumped unceremoniously onto thegolden sands of Surat Bay. I shouldbe more impressed, but my attentionis on the many wind-bent treesgrowing awkwardly sideways, likea grotesque Dr Seuss caricature ofhow a tree should look. When windconquers wood, you begin to suspectyou may be in for some trouble…The sand is soft and clumpy. In thedistance is the peculiar groaning ofa sea lion colony. After being gyppedby the penguins earlier in the day,I’m determined to see one of thesebeasts in the wild. The wind howlsin protest – or, perhaps, warning –and continually whips sand up fromthe ground where it should be andinto my face where it shouldn’t. Itstings. But I am determined. Throughsquinting eyes, I spot a noir bloblazing by the water far, far ahead.It fills me with purpose and I press on.After a slow-going eternity I reachwhat I judge to be the halfway point,a wooden sign pointing out to sea.I wonder if it’s by accident or designthat the signpost resembles gallows,its hangman’s beam perpetuallypointing to the spot where the sailingship Surat was shipwrecked in 1874,giving the bay its name. The placesuddenly feels very macabre.I tramp on, leaning heavilyforward to combat the strength ofthe unrelenting wind that is nowpositively shrieking and throwingeverything it has at me. I can seethe sand slithering through theair towards me like some unholyapparition. And every now and thena strained wail rings out. The soundof a sea lion no longer fills mewith hope.I stand and watch the oceanwrap and unwrap itself around alarge rotund log that’s glistening“The sand slithersthrough the air likean unholy apparition.Every now and thena strained wailrings out.“black in the wet of the incomingtide. From this distance I can barelymake out the Surat’s ghoulishmemorial. From deep in the thickof the impenetrably grassy dunesthat enclose the bay I hear themocking cough of a sea lion. I beginthe slow dredge back to the car.Balclutha is dark and cold andmostly closed by the time I drive intotown. I dismiss the notion of poppinginto the main street’s domineeringHotel South for a pint in favour ofbunkering down in my hotel withsome greasy fish’n’chips, a blazingheater and a reality show about afamily of American gun makers.It’s not very adventurous or intrepidof me, but it is frightfully cold outside.Awaking to a dilemma, I makean entirely unreasonable andirresponsible decision. What I shoulddo is turn around, double back alongSH1, hit SH96 through Gore and getthe BMW back to the Queenstowndealership on time. But I don’t. Withthis particular trip the journey is thedestination and I am determined tosee it through, to reach its official endin Dunedin. I point the car towardsMilton and drive out of town.Everything is grey and wet; thesky, the ocean, the day. The onlyupside is that the lousy weatheractively discourages any stopping,as for the first time on my journeyI feel the weight of a ticking clock.The turbulent sea feels much closerthan is safe, as it collides up againstthe roadside’s edge, frothing at therocks and occasionally spitting at meas I trundle along, winding withthe coastline.There’s no fanfare for completingall 610 of the Southern Scenic Route’skilometres. I’ve been on the lookoutfor a bookend, a smudgy brown roadsign declaring the end of the road.But there isn’t one. What there is isa set of traffic lights at the bottomof a steep hill on the outskirts ofDunedin. It seems an unfitting endto such an inspiring stretch of NewZealand. The majestic disappearingunsung into the mundane, its wildvariation and oscillating landscapesabruptly halted by a bright red spot,a gradual build-up of metal andstarkly glistening concrete. Sittingat the lights I search for a metaphor,something to make sense of or reflecton. But, then the light changes greenand I drive on, leaving the route andits wonders behind, as I try to figureout where I should stop for lunch. ←FOR MORE INFORMATIONwww.southernscenicroute.co.nzBMW X3 courtesy of BMW – www.bmw.co.nzFor maps and accommodation optionsvisit an AA Centre or www.aatravel.co.nzwww.aadirections.co.nz 59

TRAVELLERKeeping trackKathryn Webster joins a special New Zealand rail expeditionSOUTH OF PICTON thetrain follows the ruggedcoast, through tunnelsdug through rock face,past basic cribs plonkedbetween the tracks and the sea.It’s a moody view – shabby, kelpy,with grey-black jagged rocks andbrown-black smooth rocks that movesuddenly in fright and become seals.I’m on an excursion. My luckyfellow passengers are taking twoweeks to see New Zealand fromanother angle; I am having a tasteof it for just three days.We shift off through grape country,through Blenheim, through steepfarm land. Lambs push at theirmothers, their tails flat out like pumphandles. Wild cattle rush away fromthe tracks. Farm dam surfaces shakewith rising ducks, swans and thereflections of circling hawks.In Kaikoura we stop for a walkabove the boulder beach and thenfile back on board for a packed lunch.Comfortable food, nothing flash –sandwiches and muffins, tea from thepot. The train falls quiet after lunch:there may be some snoozing going on.But there’s such a riot of colour outthe train window, I can’t possiblysleep. Shockingly bright yellow hills,woolly with broom blossom, almostshout. Providing light relief, willowyriver banks are sliced through withpale, silvery water.Then we leave the coast. I knowit’s still there, but out of view, past thebroom-covered hills. The train speedsup. The land changes from wild totame to smooth sheep farm country,velvety with boxy trimmed hedgesand macrocarpa.“Train travel is verycalming and relaxing.You can just be; youjust go. There are nodecisions to make…“Train travel is very calming andrelaxing. You can just be; you just go.There are no decisions to make, noworries to consider, no stress to carry.It’s a convivial mood on board, with itsmix of couples and people travellingalone, looking for adventure infamiliar territory, keen to have theirown country revealed without theeffort of driving it. And they makefriends, as I do, over dinner inChristchurch.I hear about the trip so far –the highlights of the Auckland toWellington leg, the morning inthe Capital, the rocky Cook Straitcrossing and the relief of sliding intothe Sounds. Everyone’s amped aboutthe days ahead of zig-zagging downthe island from coast to coast, by railas much as possible.Leaving Christchurch, the snowtoppedmountains are brightagainst a flat blue-sky background.The train passes fuzzy horses andhealthy, happy cattle, then climbsPHOTOGRAPHY: KATHRYN WEBSTER60 AA Directions Winter 2013

TRAVELLERCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: An unscheduled stophigh on the Trans-Alpine crossing; on track forthe West Coast; another stop provides a chanceto see Brunner mine remains.up above river valleys. We meettunnels, rushing into darkness, thenemerging into broad valleys; flyover viaducts slung high over greygreenrivers; race under steep highmountains soaring above us. Thewindows are full of astonishing land.In high-up country, the train stopsand we pile out to take photos and,again, at Arthur’s Pass, we stop for acuppa. Then it’s down the other side,through the five kilometre-long Otiratunnel, which took 15 years to buildand takes 17 minutes to slide through.Nearer the West Coast, the trainpulls up next to a swing bridge, whichwe trek over to see the remains ofthe Brunner mine, with its brick kilnremnants, rusted equipment andruins etched with industrial history.It's stops like these that providethe true gems of this excursion. Theyreinforce the magic to be found in thedetail of our country and the delightto be had in the journey itself. ←VISITOR INFORMATIONSee www.pukekohetravel.co.nzfor New Zealand chartered railexcursions. See www.aa.co.nz/travelfor international escorted tour options.VEurope River Cruising 2014PARISFRANCEALSOAVAILABLE:PARIS & PRAGUEEXTENSIONSAMSTERDAMNETHERLANDSGERMANYCRUISE14MAGNIFICENT EUROPE RIVER CRUISE2014 AT 2013 PRICES + FLY FREE*15 DAYS FROM $8,295* per person, twin shareCologneAndernachRüdesheimMiltenberg BambergWürzburgRothenburgNurembergRegensburg PassauVilshofen LinzDürnsteinViennaMelkBratislavaSalzburgPRAGUECZECH REP.Ceský KrumlovBUDAPESTHUNGARYRECEIVEA $100 DUTYFREE VOUCHERFOR EVERYBOOKINGMADEGUARANTEED INCLUSIONSFor a Free Brochure or DVD Call: 0800 687 663*Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp), twin share, including port charges. Prices are correct as at 28 May 2013, but may fluctuate due to changes in surcharges, fees, taxes or exchange rates. Price based on EUMC15: 15 March 2014 (Cat. E) departure. Book by 31October 2013. Offers are subject to availability, are not combinable, are available on new bookings only and may be withdrawn at any time. Fly Free offers are subject to availability of airline and booking class. Once booking class sold out surcharges apply. Flights mustbe booked by APT. A non-refundable deposit of $1,000 per person is due within 7 days. 2nd deposit of $2,000 per person due by 31 October 2013. Final Payment is due 100 days prior to departure. Credit card payments may incur surcharge. FLY FREE: Includes air taxesto the value of $200 per person. Offer valid on a selection of cruise/tours departing in 2014. Available all year round on selected departures in suite Category E and D. Available in all other suite categories for departures in March and October to December 2014. Flightsare in economy class with Singapore Airlines (or an airline of APT’s choosing). Airfares are valid departing AKL/CHC. Please see 2014 Europe Preview brochure for full terms & conditions. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619 Lic. No. 30112 MKT11684

TRAVELLERLow-drama adventuresDavid Whitley rides, climbs and paddles around TaranakiINSIDE THE TUNNEL, a tinyflicker of daylight throughthe arch in the distancestaves off total darkness.Train driving, it turns out,is not for the claustrophobic.For anyone harbouring longlingeringchildhood fantasies ofbeing a train driver, the Stratford toOkahukura line is the closest you’llget to it without years of tuition.Kiwirail took the line out of serviceafter a derailment in 2009, but anenterprising local farmer has putit to new use.And that’s how I find myself ona specially adapted golf buggy –it has been fitted with special steelwheels to ensure it stays on the track– driving through dairy country. Thebuggies trundle along the railway at20km/h, making that familiar clacketyclack.Sheep scatter, cows just standand stare. It’s delightfully silly and aglorious way to explore the hilly andforested countryside in the backblocksof eastern Taranaki.It’s low-drama adventure, withonly vague stress at level crossings.But the road running alongside thetrack is known as the Forgotten WorldHighway. Most cars seen along theway are parked up, their driverstaking photos of strange golf buggies.After a couple of hours of inanegrinning behind the wheel, it’s timeto pull over in Whangamomona,the village that declared itself anindependent republic in 1989. As wewalk into the pub to have a look atthe national archive of newspaperclippings, a chap with a huge,scraggly beard walks past. “That’s thepresident,” says the lady at the bar.On the way back down the track,the afternoon sun burns away theclouds and brings Mt Taranaki intofull view. It really is a stunner, rising asa seemingly-perfect cone above thelandscape. But, it has an air of powerfulmenace about it, which makes merealize the next day’s adventuremight not be quite as relaxing andcarefree as this day’s has been.The Pouakai Crossing is thesupposedly gentler alternative toconquering Mt Taranaki’s summit– a pitfall-laden trek that gets fit,experienced trampers weeping at itsbrutality. The Crossing starts in muchthe same way – up from the NorthEgmont car park – before divertingacross the north face and up intothe neighbouring Pouakai Ranges.Arriving at the car park for sunriseis an extraordinary privilege. Behindis the Tasman Sea and ahead themighty volcano glows red. Part of MtTaranaki’s power is that it has so manydifferent looks, depending on yourviewing angle and the time of day.The walk begins with a steadyuphill plod, with the summit seemingtantalizingly close, yet remainingfrustratingly far away. But it starts62 AA Directions Winter 2013

TRAVELLERPHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID WHITLEYCLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Taranaki dairycountry bisected by rail; Mt Taranaki glowsin early morning light; Kayakers approach theSugar Loaf Islands; Pouakai Crossing traversesvarious landscapes; a resident of the islandsoff New Plymouth; through the swamp;signs on Pouakai Crossing.to get really fascinating afterbranching right along a track thatinches narrowly below towering cliffs.I perch for a while on a rock, justabove the cloud line. It’s just me, themountain and a sprawling horizon.Part of the joy of the PouakaiCrossing is that you’ll only encounterfive or six other people doing it –and that’s if you’re unlucky. It’s awonderfully contemplative 17km,and it gets even more atmosphericon the descent through skeletal,possum-stripped forest on the way tothe Ahukawakawa Swamp. With abit more marketing savvy, this wouldbe called a wetland, celebrated forits high altitude and range of plants.The Pouakai Range wraps around itsgolden bowl; the mists roll in withan eerie feel.The sun, alas, makes anotherbreakthrough as I attack the two-hourascent to the Pouakai Hut. This is“The PouakaiCrossing tests the legmuscles; the workoutfor the arms starts ina kayak on the beachin New Plymouth.“genuine ‘no pain, no gain’ territory.The views of Taranaki when I stopand turn around are terrific, butthere are over 2,000 steps to lumberup. Every corner brings anotherpunishing uphill slog; it’s a gruellingtest of fitness and stamina.When mercy finally materializes,it’s in the shape of a plateau with twotiny lakes. It’s as magically photogenicas I could possibly wish for.If the Pouakai Crossing tests theleg muscles, then the workout for thearms starts in a kayak on the beach inNew Plymouth. If the city gets its goodlooks from being in the shadow of MtTaranaki, then the Sugar Loaf Islandsare its beauty spots. The remnants ofan ancient volcano are just offshore,and have marine reserve status.Hundreds of fur seals call the islandshome. It’s possible to get close to themin a small boat, of course, but the bestway to pay a visit is in a kayak.With the sea calm, it’s a leisurelypaddle out. As we get closer to theseals, what looked like tiny specksfrom the beach become intimidatinglylarge; being right down at waterlevel provides the best perspective.And the seals aren’t afraid. There aredozens cooling off in the sea, somefloating on their backs with flippersin the air, others playing chase underthe water’s surface. One takes akeen interest, swimming alongsidethe kayak before ducking under itand emerging on the other side fora better look.The seals with the real cute factor,however, are on the islands. Thelittle pups, just feeling their way intothe world, are shuffling along therock. Like the golf buggies, they’renot moving particularly quickly –but they’re adorably memorable. ←VISITOR INFORMATIONSee www.aatravel.co.nz for detailson what to see and do in Taranaki,and to book accommodation.Vwww.aadirections.co.nz 63

TRAVELLERA Weekend In CubaKarl Puschmann attempts to spend an entireweekend getaway on a single streetTHE VERY FIRST thing wedo is break the rules.We’d embraced thechallenge of spending aweekend getaway solelyon one road – the bohemian Mecca ofWellington’s Cuba Street – and, barely20 minutes after landing, we fail.Our downfall comes served on aplate, lightly toasted and topped withtomato, basil and melted mozzarella.Our downfall is a crumpet. Ourdownfall is delicious.We spy Crumpet en route to ourhotel. This small art deco café isattached to the Opera House onManners Street and its nostalgiccharm instantly appeals, as does thepromise of its homemade crumpets.They do not disappoint, being thick,light and scrummy. I wolf two – onesavoury, one sweet – and wash themdown with a frothy lime shake.Afterwards, as we make our wayuptown, we successfully argue thatas we hadn’t yet arrived on Cuba,we hadn’t technically brokenthe rules. We determine to throwourselves back into the challengewith renewed conviction.A restless energy envelops CubaStreet this Friday evening. Thehustle and bustle of the businesssuitedafter-work crowd mingles withstudents and the strained warblingof the occasional busker. People aresipping pints in pubs or barrelingtowards bus stops, the weather notencouraging loitering. We join thefracas, ducking into the first barthat’s not too crammed.The rainbow dance floor tiles inthe entrance, the disco balls andthe Village People pumping on thestereo should have provided clueswe’d walked straight into a gay bar.We just thought we were walkinginto a cosy bar that played atrociousmusic. By the time we realize, we’recommitted to staying. We order drinksand shake our heads in disbelief“The less inhibitedmarket goers join thebongo circle, jerkingawkwardly in a roughapproximation ofdance.“that we hadn’t clicked after seeingthe name of the bar: Scotty & Mal’sCocktail Lounge. S&M for short.In the office on Monday I will relaytales of gastronomical bravery to acolleague who is a gourmand. I’llspeak of ordering offal and she’llbe impressed and ask what I ate.With a small note of pride I’ll reply“beef cheek” and she’ll laugh whilelaunching into an explanation ofwhy cheek is not offal. But, that’s stilla couple of days away. For now I’mnervously pushing a thin crispy sliverof a cow’s cheek around my plate atWellington’s long-established culturalcapital of hip, the Matterhorn. Themenu informs me that the cheek’sbeen drizzled in yuzu dressing, butI don’t know what a yuzu is, so that’slittle comfort. Determined to be moreadventurous, I slowly raise the cheekto my mouth and take a bite…Feeling full of culinary courage, wehit the neighbouring Left Bank nightmarkets in search of a sweet treat fordessert. The damp hasn’t deterred adecent crowd from milling around andneither has the folk singer murderingMadonna’s ‘Material Girl’ near itsalleyway entrance. As we wander,a growing commotion near the far exitcommands our attention. Turns out it’sa bunch of bongo players whoppingand a-hollering and banging theirdrums. The less inhibited – or possiblymore intoxicated – of the marketgoers join the bongo circle, jerkingawkwardly in a rough approximationof dance, but most just head-nod tothe rhythm before chucking somecoins into the group’s donation hatand continuing on.We wake to a very wet Saturday,but the deluge does not wash awaymy partner’s enthusiasm for whatshe’s gleefully titled ‘shopping day’.I voice the usual manly protestations,but happily join her in dashingfrom shop to shop through Cuba’svast array of vintage stores. Theretro furniture tucked upstairsin Hunters & Collectors has usconcocting increasingly ridiculoustransportation plans; we try on andput back expensive winter coats inPHOTOGRAPHY: HAYLEY BARNETT64 AA Directions Winter 2013

TRAVELLERZiggurat, but eventually succumb topurchasing a period digital watch(me) and some second-hand boots(her) in funky opshop, Emporium.Then we drop inside the LightHouse Cuba, a brand spanking newboutique cinema just around the backof Cuba on Wigan Street. Inside thequaint theatre are rows of comfytwo-seater couches and we plonkdown, snuggle up, and forget allabout the wind and rain outside.Saturday night sees us entering intonegotiations. Despite best intentions,our self-imposed rules have beenflagrantly ignored. While Cuba hasremained our launching pad, we’veCLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The nightmarkets; rocking out at San FranciscoBath House; bongo beats in the Left Bank;scrumptious crumpets; making crepes.smuggled across its borders regularlyduring our stay. We decide to extendour boundaries to encompass ‘theCuba district’; in other words, thewhole central city. Satisfied with thiscompromise, we leave the backstreetHavana Bar, pop open the brolly andleave Cuba behind, as we ventureforth into the wild night.It’s a bleary-eyed kind of morning.Memories of exotic venues andoutlandish drinks dredge themselveswearily to the surface; Jungle Birds atsophisticated lounge bar Motel, ‘Pilsn Thrills’ craft beer at trendy HashigoZake Cult Beer Bar, Long Island IcedTeas and scrumptiously tasty tapas atEl Matador. Fragments of grooving toold school hip hop in the dark of GoodLuck Club and rocking out to guitarbands in the cartoonish glow of livevenue Mighty Mighty flutter in andout and away.But mostly at this late hour on thisfuzzy morning there are just thoughtsof scoffing breakfast and getting tothe airport before our midday flight.We may have broken the limitationof holidaying in a single street, butwhen it comes to airline check-intimes, we don’t mess about. Thereare some rules in this world thatjust aren’t meant to be broken. ←VISITOR INFORMATIONKarl Puschmann travelled to Cuba Streetcourtesy of Wellington Tourism.For accommodation options inWellington, visit www.aatravel.co.nzVIwalk the treetopsWELLINGTONfreephone: 0508 TREETOPSphone: 03 755 5052e: info@treetopsnz.comwww.treetopsnz.comHokitikatreetop walkKaikouraCHRISTCHURCH

TRAVELLERCruising through TimeKarl Puschmann enjoys the luxury of a bygone era onboard the Queen Mary 2BESIDE US AT breakfast anold gent with wispy hairand a crisp, yellow shortsleevedshirt puts down hisfork, which is sticking outof a plump sausage, leans across histable and asks: “First timers, eh?”While it is our first time at sea, it’snot the first time we’ve been askedthis question. Seasoned cruisers spotus a nautical mile away.This isn’t down to wobbly sea legsor green gills, rather it’s becausethe majority of cruisers have a fairfew decades on us. Cruising, on thisparticular vessel at least, appears tobe an older person’s game.I suspected that this would be thecase, but cruising is something I’vealways wanted to do. Firstly, becausethere’s an easy appeal to it. All youhave to do is show up. Everythingelse takes care of itself.But, mainly, I wanted to go on acruise because it offers one of thefew surviving chances to experienceyesteryear’s fabled glamour of travel.Despite generations of recessions,technological innovations and thewallet-attracting economy of no-frillsflights, cruising has managed to retainits sense of occasion and old-worldromance. It is nostalgia at its mostalive and vibrant and opulent. It is,in a manner of speaking, time travel.Well, it is these things if you’re luckyenough to find yourself onboardthe Queen Mary 2, where all thetraditions, heritage and finery oftravelling by sea are rigorouslyadhered to, and the scale of onboardluxury is palpable.The QM2 is the flagship of CunardCruise Line's fleet, and she reallyis a bit special. During our voyagewe’re fortunate enough to have abrief audience with CommodoreChristopher Rynd, an incredibly wellspokenex-pat New Zealander, whoinforms us that she is so impressive insize that she is not actually classed asa cruise ship. She is an ocean liner,which, as far as I can work out, is onlyone small step below being classed asa city. As far as my inaugural cruisegoes, I’m starting at the top.And so to our quarters, where abottle of champagne on ice awaitsus. The room is spacious andimmaculate, and we toast farewellto Sydney from our private balcony.Our voyage to Auckland gives usfour nights at sea, which we thoughtwould be ample time to explore andindulge and maybe even get a littlebored. Turns out we thought wrong.Despite our best efforts, we don’tmanage to see or sample everythingthe QM2 offers.66 AA Directions Winter 2013

TRAVELLER“Cruising retains itssense of occasion andold-world romance.It is nostalgia atits most alive andvibrant and opulent.“PHOTOGRAPHY: CUNARD/H.BARNETT/ K.PUSCHMANNBut this is understandable; afterall, it is called a ‘cruise’ and not a‘rush’. Trying to cram in too muchfeels almost counter-productive, like itwould be missing the point. Instead,over breakfast each morning, weperuse the Daily Progamme, which isdelivered to our room’s letterbox eachday, and mark out the activities we’dlike to get to.One afternoon we visit thePlanetarium and watch the galaxycome to life before our eyes. Anotherafternoon is spent sipping cocktails onsunloungers at one of the four outdoorswimming pools while the bandVibz provides a Caribbean-inspiredsoundtrack. The one greyish afternoonof our trip we while away with friendsin a booth, in the Golden Lion pub.One of the highlights is spent in thegrand Queen’s Room – the largestballroom on the ocean – where weenjoy the pomp and procedure ofHigh Tea. We manage to snaffle aprime table overlooking the dancefloor where the Adagio String Quartetis tuning up. At 3:30pm sharp a handbell rings out, silencing the expectantmurmurings of our fellow guests.Suddenly, the doors on either sideof the dance floor swing open and aflood of white gloved waiters carryingCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: QM2 in Sydney;it's a hard life at sea; Commodore ChristopherRynd gives a tour of the bridge; a string quartetaids digestion during high tea; dinner beingprepared in the ship's galley.trays and tea pots come streamingout, as the quartet launches into itsset. We partake heartily of sconesand jam, and cakes and slices, andcucumber club sandwiches, andleave the ballroom quite satisfied anddistressingly full.We also manage to make time for amidday visit to the QM2’s day spa. Weopt for a couple’s ‘Rasul’ treatment.Neither of us know what a Rasultreatment entails but, as it’s one of thefew things in our price range that wecan do together, we book it in.After arriving at the three-level Spaand getting changed into robes, we’reled through the Aqua Therapy Centreand into an egg-shaped, blue tiledroom. It is here we are instructed inthe intricacies and exotic mysteries ofthe Rasul, which can be summed upthusly: get muddy, have a shower...While I enjoy my afternoons, it’s theevenings at sea that are the real treat,when I find myself transported to thatmore civilized age of bygone blackand white romanticism. When royaltyheld court on the high sea, peopledressed up and the big band swunginto the wee small hours.I attribute this feeling largely to thedress code, which is strictly enforcedand kicks in at 6pm on the dot. Afterdark, in port, you can get awaywith ‘elegant casual’, which looselytranslates as ‘tidy’. But, there is nothingloose about the tradition of ‘formalattire’ while at sea; suits or tuxedos forgents, evening gowns for the ladies. Atfirst, this intimidates both my partnerand I, but I quickly grow to appreciatehow much nicer things are wheneveryone visibly makes an effort,while she looks forward to spying themore flamboyantly outlandish dresseson parade.We enjoy some splendid diningonboard and each night bringssomething new and exciting to enjoy:we attend a ball, feast on a sevencourseJapanese degustation, enjoy livemusic and bubbles at an outdoor SailAway party where we farewell the Bayof Islands and, on one raucous night,warble karaoke before going clubbing.These activities are fun, but it’s thesmall moments when I catch myselfgazing out into the distance that thefull pleasure of cruising makes itselfknown. Those times, when relaxingon our balcony or taking a strollaround the ship’s 600 metre outdoorpromenade and I look out and realizethat this vast city of the sea – withall its movement and merriment– is surrounded by hundreds andhundreds of miles of emptiness.I find it peculiarly calming. I findit particularly appropriate. ←VISITOR INFORMATIONFor the Queen Mary 2’s worldwideitinerary, visit www.cunard.comFor travel insurance options, visitwww.aa.co.nz/travelVwww.aadirections.co.nz 67

Step up toRoyalClassTasmanian Explorer 7 nightsDep 12 Dec 2013, 27† Jan 2014BooknowTropical Queensland 11 nightsDep 13† Oct, 19 Nov 2013, 12 # Jan, 28 # Mar 2014New Zealand Journey 13 nightsDep 19 Mar 2014MELBOURNESYDNEYAUSTRALIABURNIECAIRNSWHITSUNDAYSAUSTRALIABRISBANEWILLIS ISLANDAUSTRALIASYDNEYNEW ZEALANDBAY OF ISLANDSTAURANGAWELLINGTONAKAROAAUCKLANDHOBARTCruiseship: Rhapsody of the Seas†Similar cruise operates onRadiance of the Seas.©2012World’s Leading Cruise LineNEWCASTLESYDNEYCruiseship: Rhapsody of the Seas#Operates in reverse. †Similar cruiseoperates on Radiance of the Seas.MILFORD, DOUBTFUL& DUSKY SOUNDDUNEDINCruiseship: Radiance of the SeasPacific Island Fusion 14 nightsDep 9 Nov, 27 # Dec 2013AUSTRALIASYDNEYNEW LAUTOKACALEDONIANOUMEAAUCKLANDTAURANGAWELLINGTONFIJICruiseship: Voyager of the Seas#Port order varies.NEWZEALANDSUPERIOR SHIPSAWARD-WINNING SERVICEUNRIVALLED SPECIALITY DININGBROADWAY ENTERTAINMENTDAY SPA AND FITNESS CENTREFijian Delight 10 nightsDep 13 # Jan, 27 Feb 2014AUSTRALIASYDNEYLAUTOKANOUMEAFIJISUVANEWCALEDONIACruiseship: Voyager of the Seas#A similar 11 night cruise operates.New Zealand Quest 11 nightsDep 7 Dec 2013, 24 # Jan 2014AUSTRALIASYDNEYMELBOURNEMILFORD, DOUBTFUL& DUSKY SOUNDNEWZEALANDWELLINGTONPICTONDUNEDINCruiseship: Voyager of the Seas#Ports of call and port order varies.South Pacific Splendour 10 nightsDep 10† Dec 2013, 1 Feb, 18 # Mar, 8 Apr 2014VANUATULOYALTY VILAISLANDSLIFOU MYSTERYISLANDNOUMEAISLE OFNEWPINESCALEDONIAAUSTRALIASYDNEYCruiseship: Rhapsody of the Seas#Ports of call & port order varies. †Similarcruise operates on Radiance of the Seas.Contact your travel agent, call us on 0800 102 123or visit royalcaribbean.co.nzfacebook.com/rciaustraliaandnzExact itineraries are subject to change at any time.ROCK WALLPOOLS AND SPASMINI GOLF COURSEAWARD-WINNING KIDS PROGRAMSCASINO ROYALEAND ON IT GOES...youtube.com/rciaustraliaandnzTropical Treats 9 nightsDep 10 Nov, 1†, 19 # , 20† Dec 2013, 23 # Jan, 1† Apr 2014AUSTRALIASYDNEYLOYALTYISLANDSVANUATUVILALIFOUNOUMEA ISLE OFPINESNEWCALEDONIACruiseship: Rhapsody of the Seas#Ports of call & port order varies. †Similarcruise operates on Radiance of the Seas.Australia’s Top End 16 nightsDep 24 Oct 2013, 3 # Mar 2014INDONESIABALIDARWINWHITSUNDAYSPORT HEDLANDAUSTRALIAGERALDTONBRISBANEPERTHSYDNEYCruiseship: Radiance of the Seas#Operates in reverse.

TRAVELLERPHOTOGRAPHY: DANIELLE WRIGHT / SUPPLIEDSurf’s upDanielle Wright visits a surf museumin Australia’s surfing capital, TorquayVINTAGE COVERS OFSurfing World magazinefrom the 1960s drawpeople in to Torquay’sSurf World Museum.On one cover, a woman in a ginghambikini walks towards a shirtless manholding a surfboard, advertising theyouthful, fun image of surfing.The museum is in Surf City Plaza,home to the big surfing brands,such as Quiksilver, Rip Curl, Roxy,Oakley and Billabong. All aroundus are young hopefuls, clothed fromhead-to-toe in sponsored surf gear.We leave them in the storesand head inside the museum,which begins with the first writtendescription of the sport, dating to the1700s, as well as the first visual record– a scene showing Captain Cook’sfleet arriving in Kealakekua Bay,Hawaii in 1778, with a figure paddlingout on a surfboard to greet them.From here, there’s history closer tohome, such as information about BellsBeach, named after Scottish settlersto the region, and more personalaccounts, such as a flippable photoalbum of Surf Coast grandmother,Mary Prince. “I was surfing beforeI was old enough for school,” saysMary. “I don’t recall anyone teachingme how to surf; I just followed mybrothers and did what they did.”There’s also 26-year-old Kat Charles,who talks of the link between surfingand creativity. She plays the drums,as well as being an artist andphotographer, and says that surfinghas helped her see the world,working as a surf coach in Franceand Morocco.“Being a surfer is grounding,humbling and beautiful,” says Kat. “Itcreates such an incredible lifestyle andattracts really good people, with goodspirits and respect for nature. Surfinghas set me on a good path for life.”Surfboards are scatteredthroughout the museum: simpleones – such as a trio of lime, lemonand pastel pink boards – to busyboards covered in surf lingo andtall tales. Further along, there’s awooden walkway with a lip of a wavebreaking overhead. There’s also aSurfing Hall of Fame, which haslegendary surfers’ boards plasteredwith their images and stories.We walk past a suitcase straightfrom the 70s, stuffed with surfmemorabilia: signed surfboardfins, Hawaiian leis and Polaroids.Cabinets are filled with trophies,while walls are crowded with surfmusic and film posters. A Kombi vanhas been opened up so visitors canwalk through its middle – a bikini top,sneakers, a guitar and sleeping bagare strewn across its floor.Next is a screening theatre, set upwith beach chairs, walls lined withnostalgic surf pictures. A film showsa group who surfed 50 states on nobudget, driving around Americain an ice cream truck.One surfer on the film says:“Don’t let anyone tell you you can’tdo something. If you’re passionateabout it, you can do it.”It sums up the anti-establishmentsurfing culture, which outsiders oftenmistakenly consider lazy, ratherthan laid-back. This impressivecollection is testament to the power ofpersistence all surfers know exists –there’s always another wave, anotherpossibility, just over the horizon. ←VISITOR INFORMATIONSee www.surfworld.com.auVisit www.aa.co.nz/travel for specialMember offers for travel in Australia.Vwww.aadirections.co.nz 69

TRAVELLERWish you were hereAlice Galletly nips to Vanuatu for a mid-winter warm upTHREE DAYS IN Vanuatuis all I need. Just to get alittle colour back and givemy bones a break fromshivering. Yes, I’m awareit is a honeymoon destination and,no, my boyfriend will not be joiningme. Sometimes a girl just needs toget warm.As soon as I step off the planeand feel that blast of tropical air –wrapping around me like a warm,wet towel – I know this was a gooddecision. I’m surer still when I reachmy apartment, which has its ownprivate pool overlooking a lushgreen valley. I could happily spendthe entire day here, reclining on thelounger and ordering fruity cocktailsto the room, but first I’ve got apostcard to send.It’s a short walk down the hill to PortVila – the scruffy, bustling capital ofVanuatu – where I catch a water taxiacross to Hideaway Island.After buying a plastic postcard andscrawling a bad joke on it in pencil, Iwade backwards with flippered-feetinto the water. It’s the first swim inmonths, and a superior one. As theocean floor drops away, white sandbecomes a sun-speckled garden ofpastel corals, sponges and sea fans.Gaudy fish zigzag through the blue:the unwitting stars of my privatesnorkel show.At some point I spot a concretecapsule down below, with 'VanuatuPost' painted in faded blue letters.It’s usually manned by some bravesoul in a scuba suit (an odd job, ifever there was one), but today it’s justme and the fish out there. And I’mglad no one can see me because itturns out I don’t know how to duckdive.I kick and thrash and chokewater through my snorkel, but can’tget more than a few inches deep.Eventually I swim back to shore andask a kid, who did it earlier, for help.“It’s easy” she laughs, clearlydealing with an amateur. “You’ve justgot to kick your legs in the air.”There are 83 islands punctuatingthe warm waters of Vanuatu, and itis common for tourists to do a littlehopping. I meet an Australian couplewho have been gaping down thethroat of a volcano on Tanna, and aFrenchman on his way to dive thewreck of a converted luxury liner offEspiritu Santo. With just a few daysin the country, however, and no goalbeyond relaxation, I’m sticking withthe main island of Efate.The local 'buses' are the most funway to get around. These are reallyrattling shuttle vans which pickpassengers up from bus stops and,PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES70 AA Directions Winter 2013

TRAVELLERPHOTOGRAPHY: ALICE GALLETLYCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: HideawayIsland, home of the world's first underwaterpost office; a pool on the way up to MeleCascades; stopping to admire the flowersin The Summit Gardens.for a few vatu, take them whereverthey’re headed. On several occasionswe take elaborate tiki tours around theisland, dropping locals off in villagesbuilt from corrugated iron sheds andthatched huts. Most Ni-Vanuatu peoplelive in simple communal villageslike this, farming pigs and chickens,growing greens in the family gardenand cooking without electricity orgas. I see billboards for iPads andcell phones around, but wonder whowould be buying them.One day I take a steep andwinding dirt road – aptly namedDevil’s Point – to visit a real-lifeGarden of Eden. Perched on agently sloping escarpment, TheSummit Gardens’ pathwaysmeander through tranquil bamboocorridors, terraces brimmingwith strange, juicy flowers, and aforest of sandalwood and vanillatrees. Throughout the walk thereare heart-stopping panoramas ofocean, which I run my camera flattrying to capture.At around five the sun sinks quicklyinto the Pacific, its brief orange glowsignalling cocktail and kava hour. Istroll along the seafront promenadeto scope out dinner options, passingwomen in long smocks playing cards,“As the ocean floordrops away, whitesand becomes a sunspeckledgarden ofpastel corals, spongesand sea fans.“canoodling couples and young menlazily tossing a rugby ball. Vila looksits prettiest at dusk.I'm nervous about dining alone,but it proves to be quite fun. I visit ahilarious Texas-style saloon – thinkElvis replicas, singing deer headsand cowboy movies – where I’mfussed over by staff in oversizedAmerican flag shirts. Unsurprisingly,they do a mean rack of ribs. Anothernight I tuck into a plate of oysters ata romantic spot on the water’s edge,and snort, giggle and guffaw my waythrough my David Sedaris book. I’dendured pitying glances from thehoneymooners on the way in, but Iswear after a while they look envious.The one experience I reallywant to share with someone is thetrip to Mele Cascades, a series ofwaterfalls tucked inside the jungle.To reach them I follow a dappled dirttrack alongside the river, trudgingdeterminedly uphill in midday heat.By the time I labour up the last stretch,I’m desperate for a swim.The falls are like something from ashampoo commercial: water plungingfrom a great height over a mossy rockface, filling terraces of clear greenpools surrounded by bush. Withinseconds I’m lying in the cool water,looking up at the trees and ponderinga riddle: if someone goes swimming ina jungle oasis, and no one is there totake a photo, did it really happen?At the end of three days the shortflight carries me back to winter, and itdoesn’t take long for my tan to fade orto forget what swimming in the warmocean felt like.But then, a reminder arrives.Slightly bent but miraculouslyunspoiled, it’s the postcard I sent myboyfriend from Hideaway.“I’m under the sea,” it says. “Fishyou were here!” And next time, I’llmake sure he is. ←Getting there:www.airvanuatu.comWhere to Stay:www.theterracesvanuatu.comIsland Tours:www.evergreenvanuatu.comwww.aadirections.co.nz 71

TRAVELLERRose-tinted reflectionsKathryn Webster takes the watery way from Belgium to the NetherlandsPICTURE A MOVINGsilver stripe of waterand a pearly slice ofsky. Between the two,the scene changes –sometimes a panel of solid green– a dyke – with a tractor, a cyclist,or some sheep with springy, happylambs on top. Occasionally thevertical spike of a church spire, awater tower or a town clock shifts theeye up from the flat, quiet land. Blacklimbedtrees scribble against the sky.An old stone barn, a solid squarecottage with steeply sloping roof,honey-coloured ponies, and a couplewalking a dog come and go.This mellow, soothing movie, withits soundtrack of low-key motornoise, is called A River Cruise FromAntwerp to Amsterdam, starringaround 150 guests, including me, withsupporting acts by various hardworkingUniworld River Empresscrew members. And, while it hadits moments of serenity verging ontorpor, it also had drama, humourand, ultimately, revelation.The revelation? The hands-downbest possible way to tour this wateryterritory is by water.We joined the ship in Antwerp,dragging our poor wheely bagsalong ancient bumpy paths past amassive inner-city cathedral andtall, shoulder-to-shoulder canalhouses, their roofs spiked with gildedshapes and figures. We passed shopwindows blousy with lace, incrediblechocolate emporiums and cafés slickwith Belgium’s famous amber beer.Hasidic Jews in black coats and blackhats passed us. Once we’d dumpedour luggage, we followed them back“Each place westopped, we'd jointhe ship-organisedtour guides for anintroduction to wherewe were.“toward the Diamond Quarter – thenswerved off to see some of Antwerp’sother brilliant spots, highlighting artand fashion.Galleries of old and new art,museums and sparkling, edgy shopspulled us further and further awayfrom the old port and our waitingship. It’s a walkable, fascinating citywhich introduced us effectively tomulti-cultural, multi-lingual Belgium.Each place we stopped, we’d jointhe ship-organised tour guides for anintroduction to where we were.In Bruges – a 14th-century city witha diamond history, labyrinthinecobbled streets, church bells andthousands of tourists – having a guidemeant we could avoid queues fora canal tour, too. Once we had ourbearings, we ducked back over abrick bridge, took a turn signalled bybrutally clipped linden trees and, at aSunday flea market, were tempted bybrass and glass and other impossiblyheavy treasures.In a complete scene change, wePHOTOGRAPHY: LIZ LIGHT72 AA Directions Winter 2013

TRAVELLERworks sing eloquently of an era andgeography naturally associated withhim and I felt I knew him, a little,having been to his home town. As avisit to Hoorn revealed something ofthe national character.Again we joined a local guideorganised by Uniworld andwandered Hoorn's old centre, hearingof its 16th-century golden age wheninternational shipping to the East andWest Indies was launched from itspiers. Understandably, consideringthe importance of the industry,some churches have gilded shipsdecorating their highest peaks –crafted in elegant, graphic style.Other churches feature goldenroosters, as a sign of reawakening,marking them as Dutch ReformedChurches. Others, being Lutheran,carry a swan as their flag.The guide that day, the convivialand knowledgeable Claude,also explained the ‘coffee houseculture’, the Dutch attitude towardvarious social issues, the shiftingcontemporary mood of his country.It readied us for our arrival incosmopolitan Amsterdam, whichcould have been a shock after daysspent gliding with languor througheasy, gentle beauty!But Amsterdam – a colourful,happy, engaging city – was also easy.We wandered, shopped and soakedCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:Bicycles are everywhere inAmsterdam, but they don'tdetract at all from the city'sbeauty; the tulips are out – itmust be spring.up the city’s youthfulness and extremeprettiness. We took a free ferry to aformer industrial site used by artists,houseboat owners and boat restorers,sharing the ride with families out forthe day. Parents pushed their bikeson to the deck. Typically, womenhad small passenger seats on theirbikes, carrying the youngest infront and an older child, too youngto ride their own bike, clinging onbehind. The family men pushedbarrow-like extensions in front oftheir bikes, carrying the picnic andparaphernalia for the excursion; insome cases, a child was in there, too.Having looked around, we caughtthe boat back to the city, but not beforebuying excellent coffee and deliciousspicy buns to eat on the 10-minutetrip. The ferry docked and the crowdtumbled out directly into the metrostation for trains and buses, or past itto paths designated for walkers andcyclists. Those who needed to ditchtheir bikes parked them in a floating,multi-tiered bike park right there.That morning’s excursion spokevolumes of how well the city works,how clever and manageable andhospitable and inclusive it is. It’s abrilliant city – it’s the star of the show,in a way. But the real poetry, thedepth of character and the lasting,technicolour images lie in the journeytaken to get there. ←Lounging aroundAfter an intense 10 days inEurope and the inevitable,inescapable, long, long flightback to our corner of the world, Iaccepted an invitation to CathayPacific’s First Class lounge inHong Kong airport. The loungehas been renovated and hasnew cabanas and, happily, therewas one vacant, so I installedmyself and ran a bath in a roomthe size of a studio apartmentand soaked for an hour –incredibly – amidst the hubbubof Hong Kong airport. Then I atevery well from a buffet, althoughI could have ordered à la carte– but didn’t want to spend toomuch time eating when therewas freely available, top-qualitychampagne to be had.Access to the Business Classlounge on the way to Europewas very welcome for a shortertransit and Cathay Pacific hasrefurbished that, too. But I hadflown Business Class to try outthe new, roomier seats, whichare angled to be more convivialfor people travelling together, soI was not as badly in need of therecuperative value of the loungeas I might have been.Although airline loungesare reserved for passengerson specific airlines, HongKong airport also has generic‘travellers lounges’. Accessis paid by the hour forshowers, food and somewherecomfortable to wait in transit.VISITOR INFORMATIONUniworld’s 10-day Tulips & Windmills rivercruise travels between Amsterdam andAntwerp; departure dates are availablein March and April 2014.www.uniworldcruises.co.nzCathay Pacific offers daily one-stopconnections between Auckland andAmsterdam, via Hong Kong.www.cathaypacific.co.nzFor travel insurance,see www.aa.co.nz /travelPHOTOGRAPHY: LIZ LGHT74 AA Directions Winter 2013

BAKING SODA

TRAVELLERvisited the Delta Project, a superimpressivemission to keep the NorthSea at bay. It was built in response toa deadly flood in 1953 when dykes, indisrepair after the war, failed againsta king tide in a big storm. Almost 2000people died, many on the cold roofsof their homes. Apparently, someDutch people keep cognac in theceiling in case it happens again, butthe government took considerableaction. In a massive project overseveral decades, the sea armsbetween the islands of Zeeland wereclosed with dams – all solid except theNorth Sea storm barrier, which is anengineering wonder of concrete piersand iron gates able to open and closeas nature dictates.Other days, other eras, otherextremes: an afternoon pokingaround muted, sleepy Veere; anotherspent cycling along canal paths,past farms, through birdsong forest.We stopped for a breather in a tinyvillage consisting of a church, plusa dozen homes. A barn, its doorsflung open to early spring, reeked ofbucolic cliché. Two farmers returnedour greetings and, having navigatedthe language barrier sufficiently, weedged our careful way in. Shadowyand pungent shapes in wooden pensshifted and snorted. A great flank ofbull rippled. Sheep skittered. Bitsy,seedy, filtered light relaxed to revealcows, heifers, pigs and goats, livingin a warm world of hay and feed andmess, with chooks and barn cats inthe wings. The farmers, no doubtbemused by our fascination withindoor farm animals, encouragedthe lambs closer to our cameras withhandfuls of bread.One morning we woke to a rosetintedscene, in Rotterdam. Thecaptain waited for sunrise, thencruised up into the harbour to showus Europe’s largest port. It was a massof busy, buzzing action. Among thehuge hulls of international ships satmulti-coloured containers, cranes,slips and dry docks, while barges,pilot boats, tugs and ferries plied onpink reflections. On the fringes, backtoward the city centre, apartmentsand office blocks rose high overboulevards, wharves and cycle pathsbusy with morning commuters.Rotterdam was badly damagedin the Second World War so hasrelatively new architecture, some of itquite radical. From half a day spentwandering its core, it seemed a vitaland inviting city. We could happilyhave kept shopping, but needed to getback to the ship to trip downriver toKinderdijk, where a scatter of 700-yearoldwindmills are protected as WorldHeritage objects. Nineteen of thesebeautiful, clever, astounding thingsstand sentinel in the watery landscape,their sails roaring powerfully andmajestically. We climbed into one tosee its workings and its cosy interior,and to learn its story.The history of The Netherlands is,like anywhere, shared with storiesand songs. Various performersboarded the ship in the evenings topass precious snippets on to us. Onenight, a trio performed classical andCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The River Empress,home for 10 days, moored at Veere; houseboatson an Amsterdam canal; Rubens poses inAntwerp; a duck's eye view of Bruges.gypsy music; another evening featureda local choir singing Dutch folk songs.Before we reached Amsterdam and itswealth of art museums, an art historianboarded for a preparatory lecture.It was the visit to Nuenen, whereVincent Van Gogh was born, thatmost effectively prepared me for adecent dose of his art, though. Noneof his paintings are in Nuenen, butthe landscape is familiar and somebuildings from his work – including StClemens church – survive, as does hisfamily home. An excellent museumand tourist talking posts around thesmall town reveal much of this highlysignificant artist’s terribly sad life.I carried this insight to the satelliteHermitage in Amsterdam which washosting Van Gogh’s art while thecity’s museum dedicated to him isbeing renovated. His rich, exuberantwww.aadirections.co.nz 73

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MISC1425Contact APT or see your travel agentAustralia 1300 656 985www.aptouring.com.auNew Zealand 0800 278 687www.aptouring.co.nzMay 2013CANADA, ALASKA & USA – 2014 OUT NOW! Guaranteed! Smaller groups with a maximum of 40 guests Awe-insiring accommodation, including guaranteed view rooms at a number oficonic Fairmont properties Exclusive! APT’s Signature Experiences Exclusive! APT’s Freedom of Choice Sightseeing & Dining Inclusions Exclusive! Luxury 2-door coaches^ with free Wi-Fi throughout Canada Dedicated Canadian Tour Directors & 99% satisfaction rating All tipping, transfers, sightseeing and meals as specified New & Exclusive! Five-Star Mississippi River Cruising itineraries Private Air Cruising extensions exploring the USA in styleLet us treat you likeAPTRoyalExperienceGUARANTEEDVERANDAH STATEROOMGUARANTEEDGOLDLEAF SERVICESitkaMAJESTIC ROCKIES& ALASKA CRUISEGlacier BayJuneauALASKACANADAKetchikan7BRITISH ALBERTAHOLLANDCOLUMBIAAMERICAMt Robson1 JASPERLINEVIA RAILWHISTLERLAKE LOUISEVancouver Island 1 1 1 1BANFF2 1 SUN 2VICTORIABANFFPEAKS NATIONALSeattle VANCOUVER PARKUSAROCKY MOUNTAINSUT18VEISFLY FREE* INCLUDING TAXES18 DAYS FROM $12,145* per person, twin shareGuaranteed Inclusions: 9 nights ofoutstanding accommodation includingAlaska cruise in a Verandah StateroomROCKIES ODYSSEY& ALASKA CRUISEGLACIER BAYNATIONAL PARKGlacierSkagwayBay ALASKAJuneau7HOLLANDAMERICA LINECANADAQueenCharlotteIslandsKetchikanBRITISHCOLUMBIAALBERTAMt Robson JASPERBlue River 2 AthabascaSUN PEAKSGlacier1WHISTLER2 LAKE LOUISE2Vancouver Island 1 2 BANFF2VICTORIA 2 KAMLOOPSVANCOUVERROCKY MOUNTAINSUT22BWIVFLY FREE* PAY TAXES FROM $110 PP22 DAYS FROM $14,145* per person, twin shareGuaranteed Inclusions: 14 nights ofoutstanding accommodation includingAlaska cruise in a Verandah StateroomORDER YOURFREE BROCHURE& DVD TODAYCALL 0800 222 089www.aptouring.co.nz/Canada2014Or see your local travel agent*Conditionsapply. Pricesare per person (pp) twin share. Prices are correct as at 21 May 2013 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. Prices based on UT18VEIS: 23 April 2014 and UT22BWIV: 23 April 2014 departures. Book by 25 October 2013 or until sold out. Offers are not combinable,available on new bookings only and subject to availability. Offers may be withdrawn at any time. Fly Free offers are subject to availability of airline and booking class. Once booking class sold out surcharges apply. Flights must be booked by APT. Non-refundable deposit of $3,000 pp is due within 7 days. Finalpayment is due 100 days prior to departure. Flights are in economy class with Air New Zealand (or an airline of APT’s choosing). FLY FREE INCLUDING TAXES: Inclusive of air taxes to the value of up to $110 pp. Offer valid on UT18VEIS departures in April 2014. FLY FREE PAY OWN TAXES: Not inclusiveof air taxes to the value of approximately $135 pp. Offer valid on selected tours departing April 2014. Also valid on UT18VEIS departing May to October 2014. ^2 door coach only available on selected West Coast itineraries. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619 Lic. No. 30112 MKT11655

MY AAMy AADarren BradleyAA Auto Glass Chip Repair TechnicianDARREN BRADLEY IS a bit like adentist – except instead of fixing holesin teeth, he fixes holes in glass. And,instead of seeing patients in an office,he whizzes between his appointmentson a bright yellow scooter. »PHOTOGRAPHY: MARK SMITHwww.aadirections.co.nz 79

MY AA“I’m the AA’s only dedicated chiprepair technician,” says Darren, “andbecause I do the whole of Auckland,a lot of my day is spent travellingbetween jobs.“It’s perfect for me because I hatebeing stuck inside. With this job I’min different places all the time, andI always enjoy meeting new peopleand chatting to them while I carry outthe repair.”“A lot of the structuralintegrity of thevehicle is held in thewindscreen glass. So,if you were to roll acar, it’s more likely tocave in if the glass ischipped.”Repairs only take about 15-20minutes and can make a big differenceto the safety of a vehicle, he says.“Often people don’t realise, but alot of the structural integrity of thevehicle is held in the windscreenglass. So, if you were to roll a car, it’smore likely to cave in if the glass isdamaged. From a safety aspect, it’s areally good idea to get chips fixed.”Darren carries all the tools heneeds to repair chips in one bag, sotravelling between jobs on the scooteris no problem.“If it’s rainy I’ll take a car, butotherwise I can get to people’s houses,workplaces, or wherever the vehicleis on the scooter. It’s great for parking,too, especially in town.”It sounds like the perfect job for aman whose hobbies revolve aroundvehicles of all shapes and sizes.“I’ve always been into cars; Ijust got my motorbike licence, andrecently I’ve taken up mountainbiking on weekends. Basically, I loveanything with wheels.” ←To make a booking, call AA AutoGlass on 0800 300 120 or book onlineaa.co.nz/glassTHIS IMAGE: Artist’s impression ofChristchurch’s Peterborough Villagefrom ASA Pita Kaik Competition.CANTERBURYUPDATEAA Insurance continues to work hard for itsCanterbury customers affected by earthquakedamage. At the end of April, the following progresshad been made:70% claimsclosed$130 million paid27 homes with majorrepairs/rebuildscompleted or nearcompletion374major repairs/rebuilds in theplanning andconsenting phase937 minor repairscompleted99% of customershave time frames forwhen construction ontheir homes will begin80 AA Directions Winter 2013

MY AASMART ServiceRequesting roadside assistance is noweasier than ever, thanks to a newAA Roadservice mobile applicationThe app uses the inbuilt GPSsystem of your mobile deviceto identify your location, soyou don’t have to struggle todescribe where you are whenin unfamiliar surroundings, orat night.You can receive progressupdates, including detailsof the attending officer orcontractor, and you cancommunicate back to the AA.The app also identifies usefulsites in the vicinity, like petrolstations and garages, has ahandy torch function, and willremind you when your AAMembership renewal is due.If you’re an AA Memberwith an iPhone or a Windows8 Phone, you can downloadthe application for free. Onceinstalled, you can set it up so itis ready to go when you needassistance.Features will be added inthe coming months, as wellas developing a version forGoogle Android devices.Remember, AA Members canalways phone for help if theyprefer.→For instructions ondownloading the app, visitaa.co.nz/mobile-appFree lessonsFOR LEARNERSChildren of AA Members are being offered a free driving lesson in a pilotprogramme designed to develop driving skills, improve behaviour andbuild positive attitudesIn February 2012, the Governmentintroduced a tougher driver testingregime as one element of its SaferJourneys framework, designed todecrease death and serious injuryon our roads. The immediate impactwas a reduction in the pass rate ofpractical driving tests.“That indicated fewer driverswere ready for the responsibilityof sharing the road with others,”says AA Driving School GeneralManager Nigel Clark.“The higher testing standardsmean learner drivers need to takemore time to develop their skillsand build a solid foundationfor safe driving.”This means professionaldriver training has never beenmore important, and the AA isresponding with a roll-out of freedriving lessons to the children ofAA Members, or AA Membersthemselves, who have just receivedtheir learner licence.“Professional driver trainingprovides the best opportunity toprepare during the period betweengetting a learner’s licence andsitting the practical driving testfor a restricted licence,” says Nigel.Driver education is a cornerstoneof the AA and the introduction ofthe free driving lesson pilot is oneof its strategic priorities.“We’re beginning with a pilotprogramme in Hamilton andTauranga for three months to gaugetotal interest in the free lessonprogramme, and to ensure we havethe right infrastructure in place.If the pilot is successful, we planto implement a national roll-outlater in the year.”→For more information, go toaa.co.nz/drivers or phone 0800 22 37 48.www.aadirections.co.nz 81

MY AAMAKING HISTORYWe’ve got great news for historylovers: as an AA Member, you cannow get 35% off a new two-yearmembership to the New ZealandHistoric Places Trust.As well as helping to fund heritagepreservation work, NZHPT membersget a range of great membershipbenefits, including: A free subscription to HeritageNew Zealand, the country’s leadingheritage magazine Free normal admission to NZHPTownedand/or managed propertiesthroughout New Zealand 10% discount in the NZHPT’s shopsat heritage properties Discounts on a range of productsand services, such as domestictours and accommodation, andhome improvement products Free admission to hundreds ofheritage properties overseas→To find out more, visit www.aa.co.nz/nzhpt or phone NZHPT on 0800 802 010.AutoGlassPHOTOGRAPHY: ISTOCKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM82 AA Directions Winter 2013

MY AAWINTER BLUESTIME TO PLAN A GETAWAY?HOW ABOUT A scenic train journey through Arthur’s Pass Crossing the Cook Strait on the Interislander A coach tour to the world famous WaitomoGlow-worm Caves Booking a rental car to see and experience moreOur AA Centre staff can help you book your nextNew Zealand winter journey, and find somewhereto stay once you get there.Make a booking at an AA Centre between 15 Julyand 15 August 2013 and earn a 20 cents per litreAA Smartfuel discount when your booking is $100 orover (normally 10 cents per litre).*AA Smartfuel terms and conditions applyGet SmartSaving money for motorists is a mantra atAA Smartfuel headquarters in AucklandAA Smartfuel Managing Director Scott Fitchett saysthe best way to work AA Smartfuel is to focus onsmaller fuel purchases. Every $40 spent on fuel atparticipating BP and Caltex outlets provides a sixcent per litre fuel discount.“Instead of filling up your car, put in $40 of fuel andbank your six cents per litre fuel discount. The next timeyou’re going past the service station, put in another $40and accumulate the discount again. Now you’re alreadyup to 12 cents per litre in fuel savings,” explains Scott.Another AA Smartfuel user, Russel Kwa, shares hisadvice: “I never pump more than $40 at a time, and I alsotry to dine at places that give you discounts, like BurgerKing, buy food items that give you fuel discounts, andshop at participating outlets with friends.“I’ve saved $121.91 in six months – quite a lot for astudent working on a limited budget!”→AAsmartfuel.co.nzwww.aadirections.co.nz 83

MY AAMOVIE MAPSNew Zealand’s dramatically diverselandscape has taken Hobbits toIsengard, given origin to an X-Manand seen a piano dumped on a beach.Now, eager film fans keen to visitthese locations can go to the AA Mapswebsite to get the exact location andcoordinates of where this movie magichas happened around our country.Details on how to find over 90 scenelocations from 10 movies, includingLord of the Rings trilogy, The Hobbit,Wolverine, Chronicles of Narnia and theadaptation of Maurice Gee’s Kiwi classicUnder The Mountain have been addedto AA Maps and are easily searchable.These film locations have also beenadded to TomTom GPS units, with therelease of their latest free map update.→To find film locations, head to aamaps.co.nz and typethe name of the movie into the search bar.PHOTOGRAPHY: ISTOCKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM84 AA Directions Winter 2013

MY AA10 tipsfor wintersun seekersThinking of escapingthe chill this winter, witha dash to Australia,a Pacific island orsomewhere furtherafield? Do it the AAway.1Plan your trip – whether you preferto roam the internet for inspirationor chat to somebody in the know,planning your escape is part of thefun. If you’re headed to Oz, seewww.driveaustralia.com.au forregional info, accommodation andideas. If you’re thinking of heading offon an overseas tour, speak to the AA’stravel partner Adventureworld or seewww.aa.co.nz/tours2Book your flights – when you bookwith Qantas, you’ll receive anAA Smartfuel discount www.aatravel.co.nz/qantas3Don’t forget travel insurance –did you hear about the guy whohad to pay $500 for an ambulance inSydney? Or the woman who brokeher foot and had to cancel her $18,000holiday? Don’t get caught out. Whenyou buy AA Travel Insurance, youchoose your own excess, and kids arecovered for free. Get a quote at www.aatravelinsurance.co.nz or visit anAA Centre.4Driving overseas – if you’relooking to drive while you’reoverseas, you may need anInternational Driving Permit, whichyou can organise at your localAA Centre.5If you need to book a rentalcar in Australia, AA Membersreceive a discount with AA Thrifty.www.thrifty.com.au/aanz-offers6Packing – if you’re the sort wholikes to bring everything but thekitchen sink, make sure you checkyour baggage allowance beforeyou fly to avoid extra charges. Also,roll rather than fold your clothesbefore you pop them in the suitcase.You’ll get more in and they will getless wrinkled!7Don’t forget the sunscreen!Always an essential, particularlywhen your skin has been hiddenbeneath winter layers for weeks.8Take your Membership card withyou – AA Members are eligible forroadside assistance via affiliated autoclubs in Australia and many othercountries, as well as discounts onattractions and travel.See www.aa.co.nz/benefits formore info.9If you’re looking for family fun atthe zoo, or thrills and spills at theGold Coast theme parks, check outwww.aa.co.nz/travel-discounts tosee how you can save on your visit.10And, finally, don’t forget totake loads of photos. Oneof the joys of heading to sunnierclimates during the New Zealandwinter is making everyone backhome just a little bit jealous! ←→If you can’t make it overseas thiswinter, there’s always the ‘winterlessNorth’. Head to aatravel.co.nzfor accommodation, hot deals andideas for things to see and do.www.aadirections.co.nz 85

MY AAInsure online, anytimeAA Insurance is New Zealand’s onlyinsurer to offer its core products forquote and purchase online. Thatmeans those wanting to insure theircar, home or contents can get a quoteand buy cover any time – even if it’soutside normal business hours.Because insuring your propertyand valuables is an importantdecision, AA Insurance hasdesigned a new online system thatwalks customers through each stepof the process. Guidance is providedalong the way to give prospectivebuyers the information they need tomake an informed decision.AA Insurance’s new onlineservice will also be backed upby offline support. As soon as acustomer enters the quote process,they are given a unique referenceand an 0800 number to call foradditional assistance. A securepayment solution has also been putin place for all online transactions.“By making our core insuranceproducts available to buy online,we’re offering the public morechoice in how they choose toshop,” says Dan Wilkinson, Head ofBusiness Systems, AA Insurance.“The addition of online buyingmeans that customers nowhave three ways to buy theirinsurance – online, by phone,and at AA Centres.”→AA Insurance offers discountsfor customers who take out multiplepolicies online.→To purchase insurance online or fora quote, visit www.aainsurance.co.nzAVOID BATTERY BLUESWith the colder weather upon us, now is the time to pay attention to thatsmall box hidden under the bonnetIn winter, car batteries have towork harder and are thereforemore prone to failure. A coldengine requires more effortto start, drawing more powerfrom a battery that alreadyhas diminished performancebecause of the cold. Add to thatair-conditioning, demisters andcommutes with the headlights on,and it’s not surprising that manyolder batteries will start to give up.The average motorist shouldexpect to buy a new battery everythree years or so. If your car issluggish when you start it, it’sa warning sign that the batterymight be nearing the end of its life.Testing will help determine ifit needs charging, or if it is failingand needs to be replaced. AtAA Battery Service, we recommendregular check-ups.Even if your battery is not onits way out, the AA Battery Serviceteam can tell you if it is properlycharged and in good workingorder. We perform a simpleand quick test on your batteryand charging system, providingyou with a report on the healthof both.If you do need a battery, theAA Battery Service team isavailable 24 hours a day, sevendays a week to install a highqualityAA battery on the spot.For Members the call-out isfree, you just pay for one of ourcompetitively-priced batteries.→Call AA Battery Service toll-freeon 0800 500 222 or *222 from yourmobile for advice.PHOTOGRAPHY: ISTOCKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM86 AA Directions Winter 2013

MY AAFLOWERPOWERWhether you’re surprising a loved one or treating yourself,fresh flowers are great for brightening grey winter days.As an AA Member you can save 20% off any online orderwith Teleflora New Zealand. They offer a range of freshflower bouquets, arrangements, plants and gift baskets,with same-day delivery throughout New Zealand, Australiaand the United Kingdom, and next day to over 90 countriesaround the world.Have your AA Membership number handy and ordernow online at aa.co.nz/Teleflora, or free-phone0800 TELEFLORA (835 335).Final Word from the AA PresidentMy role as President of theAssociation is to preserve andnurture the fundamental conceptsestablished over many years. I seeone of the key functions of my officeis to ensure that the AA continues tofocus on how to remain relevantto Members, and how it cancontinue to grow.How, for example, do we connectwith the new generation, who areas likely to pick up a smart phone asthey are to drive somewhere whenthey want to catch up with friendsand family? And how do we ensurethat the AA best represents thediverse communities that make upNew Zealand?We need to ensure that we keepup – with technological changes,with behavioural changes and withsocial changes.At the end of last year, I wrotethat the AA Board had askedmanagement to review theAssociation’s strategic priorities.That process has been extremelyhelpful; we have a clear ideaof where the AA’s service andbusiness operations will head overthe next five years.We’ll continue to strive forAA Membership to be ‘trulyindispensable’ and, to achievethat, we will focus on ourcornerstone services, ourfoundations, and our challenges.In a nutshell, we want the AAto be the Number One providerof assistance in motoring support,Member benefits, tourism,advocacy, insurance and finance,and driver education.To ensure our success in thosesix cornerstones, we will play toour unique strengths. What are ourstrengths? First and foremost: ourMembership – and hand in handwith that, our ability to providevalue, service advantage andbenefits to our Members. That,plus the AA’s service philosophy,its strong brand, the size and qualityof its database, the district network,and the effort our people put intogetting it right add up to a solidfoundation.Yes, we must also addresschallenges which could hinderour progress, such as theperception that the AA is justabout Roadservice, questions ofgovernance skills and capacity,and succession planning. But,none of these are insurmountable,by any means – and having setthe strategy, we are now lookingforward to seeing it implemented inthe years to come.I believe the vision for theorganization is reflected in ourplanning and is preserved, forfuture generations, in our growthstrategy.Bruno PetrenasAA Presidentwww.aadirections.co.nz 87

DIRECTORY» New Zealand Accommodation and Travel, Australia Accommodation and Travel, Overseas TravelREACHING 500,000+ KIWI HOMES*Phone (09) 589 1054 Fax (09) 589 1055 E-mail debbie@hawkhurst.co.nzRHODODENDRONGARDENSSee Taranaki and the Manawatu inrhododendron bloom. Meet private gardeners,wander New Plymouth’s magnificent Pukeitiand visit unique Tawhiti Museum, Whanganui,Cross Hills garden, and the Chateau.ALL INCLUSIVE:10 -14 OCTOBER:2013/14ESCORTEDNZ TOURSSouth IslandSpringtimeRail Tourby exclusivecharter train26 October – 08 November(see article in thisAA magazine)ChathamIslands‘The way life in NZused to be’Escorted groupdepartures orindependent travelContact the specialistsFor our worldwide escortedtours, see our websitePukekohe Travel0800 785 386tours@pukekohe-travel.co.nzwww.pukekohetravel.co.nz*ABC Audit 547,004 for twelve months ended 31 December 2011CONSIDERING SHIPPING YOUR MOTORHOME OR CAR?PHONE THE EXPERTS Aironaut can pack, secure and ship, with the care andresponsibility as if it was our very own. Partnering with other car shipping specialists throughoutthe world, Aironaut make it easy. We know which is the best shipping service, route, andtranshipment point, best suited to your budget and requirements. Car shipping with Aironaut saves time and money, as we can offer asmuch or as little additional services as you require. We offer Door-Door, Port-Port, or a combination to suit yoursituation. Just ask us for help.AIRPORT & CRUISECAR PARKINGPick-up / Drop-off ServiceDrive straight to AucklandAirport (Domestic &International) or Wharf.We will meet you there!Car storage from $6 per day(Pickup/Dropoff fee may apply depending on length of stay.)Check out our fantastic cust omer comments in our CustomerTestimonials Section on our websiteBookSmart Car Storage0800 22 77 86LEISURETIME TOURSTours 2013-148-11 November22–24 November16–22 September25 Sep–11 October3–16 October12–20 October5–10 November8–26 November11–26 March 2014Contact your local agentsor call toll free 0800 534 787Noosa’s best value resort,and only a stroll to popularHastings St and Noosa’smain beachWOW FACTORStay 5 nights$A99 per night**plus****SUNSHINE GUARANTEE****If the temperature does not reach21°C on any day during your stay youwill receive a 20% refund.**Based on 2 people, one bedroom.A$115 for 4 people, two bedroomsBOOK NOW!Email info@noosainternationalresort.comor check us out atwww.noosainternationalresort.comContact: Grant Hudson156 Parnell Rd, AucklandPh: 09-309-8814www.aironaut.co.nzFULLY ESCORTED TOURSFOR SENIOR CITIZENSOur 2013 programme includes:NZCoast, Winterless North, Top of theSouth, South of the South, ChathamIslands, Taranaki Rhodo Fest, KapitiCoast, Taipa Bay for Christmas.AUSTRALIA: Tasmania, Gold CoastStay Put, Red Centre, North WestSafari, Western Australian Wanderer,Waltzing the Matilda.PACIFIC: Norfolk Island, SamoaFor a free colour brochurecontact Scottsdale ToursFREE phone 0800 66 44 14www.scottsdaletours.co.nzCAIRNSNORTHERN BEACHESView the websitefor SpecialsBellevue At Trinity Beach Luxury 5 Star1, 2 & 3 Bedroom FSC Apartments withUnrestricted Ocean & Garden Views, A/C,Large Balcony, Lift. Ph: +61740578822email: res@bellevuetrinitybeach.com.auwww.bellevuetrinitybeach.com.auCALL NOW FORAMAZING DEALSHastings St accommodationfrom $175 per night– conditions apply.www.noosaholidays.com.aunoosa.holidays@noosare.com.auPhone: +61 7 5447 381157 Hastings St, Noosa Heads, QldSOUTH AMERICASmall group expeditions& tailor made toursFor information oryour free tour brochure:09 889 4214 info@vivaexpeditions.comwww.vivaexpeditions.comAUSTRALIAN TOURS 2013SEPT: Brisbane, Fraser &Norfolk Islands. OCT: Tasmania.Small escorted groups.A B Explorer Toursabexplorertours@xtra.co.nzBRISBANE BARGAIN RENT A CARFree Airport Shuttle. Cars from$21/day, incl. insurance. Familyrun business. Ph 0800 441 607.www.bargainrentacar.com.auCHARTER YACHTSAUSTRALIAWhitsunday IslandsSkipper Yourself Yachts, Sailing& Power Catamaranswww.charteryachtsaustralia.com.auEmail: charter@cya.com.auInt Ph: +61 7 4946 6666Driving on the Gold Coast?Select the right rental car fromwww.hellogoldcoast.com.auor phone 0800 744800Check our range of Attractions,Restaurants & Discount coupons.AUSTRALIA – SUNSHINE COASTHoliday Getaway @ Kings Beach2BR 2 bath FSC apartments,100m beach. Ocean views,heated pool, BBQ, Foxtel, SecPark, linen supplied, Res MgrsKINGS WAY APARTMENTS00 617 5491 7500www.kingsway.net.auBRISBANEKingsford Riverside Inn!Close to City & Airport.City bus at the door!Ph: 0061-7-3862-1317See our website atwww.budgetaccommodation.com.auCAIRNS – CITYSIDERHoliday Apartments, 1 & 2 brmFSC, a/c, spacious, pool, BBQ,central. Kiwis offer Kiwis 10%discount. Ph: 0061 7 4044 9888www.citysider.com.au

» Australian Travel, Overseas Travel, Automotive Products and ServicesDOCKSIDE MOOLOOLABASpacious holiday apartments atthe heart of the Sunshine CoastSpecial rates for NZAA MembersPhone 0800 000 417 for detailswww.docksidemooloolaba.com.auGOLD COAST – Main Beach4 ½ star LUXURY 2 & 3 bedroomspacious apartments*heated pool* *spa* *steamroom* *tennis court* *gym**BBQ* Located on Tedder Avea stroll to restaurants/cafes.phone: 0061-7- 5531 4188www.oceansands.com.auPORT DOUGLASFREESTYLE RESORT4½ Star FSC 1 & 2 bdm apts (31).15% AA Members discount.NO NEED FOR A CAR.Freecall Aust 0800 771 456www.freestyleportdouglas.com.auSUNSHINE COAST – QLDCALOUNDRA4 star, 2 & 3 bdrm apartmentsat Kings Beach. Heated pool &spa. 3 min walk to beach, cafes &clubs. Great location. Great value.Ph: 0061 7 5438 0600www.kingsbayapartments.comSURFERS PARADISEBoutique 4 star SR–FSC 1 & 2 brmapts. All with ocean views. Beach50 mtrs. Heated pool & Spa. BBQ.Get great deals from friendly Kiwis.Ph: 0061-7-5526-7588www.emeraldsands.com.au29-DAY TOUR TO THE UKJoin our small group on a leisurelytour of the UK 16 June 2014, withan optional post tour to Ireland.Visit www.tourwithusnow.comPh 0800 276 312KIWI VIETNAM TOURSEscorted 20 day Tour$6495 share twinPO Box 123 RongoteaPH: 06 324 8444www.kiwivietnamtours.co.nzTHIRD AGE TOURSSmall Group Tours for the Over-50sDomestic and International –GREAT PRICES!Treasures of Turkey30 August to 23 September 201320 May to 14 June 201430 August to 23 September 2014England Wales & Yorkshire Dales29 August to 28 September 20131–31 May 20144 September to 4 October 2014Captivating Croatia & Slovenia19 June to 12 July 2014Vietnam & Cambodia4–26 October 2013, and 2014Unique and Beautiful Norfolk Is3–10 November 20132–9 March 2014Catlins & Stewart Island6–14 February 2014Plus other destinations!For a FREE INFORMATION PACK,contact Brenda or TristanTHIRD AGE TOURSPhone: 03 379 3799or 03 312 7050Freephone: 0800 927 725sunshineone@xtra.co.nzwww.thirdagetours.co.nzBurma River Cruisewith Barry HollandDEPARTS: 20 Oct 2013Flights + 14 nights + most meals(incl 8-night Pandaw river cruise & 3 nights at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore)*Terms & conditions apply.Contact us for details10,999 *$fromCall: 09 630 2435 Click: mondotravel.co.nzEmail: mteden@mondotravel.co.nzADLY SCOOTERSGTA 50 and GTC 50 modelsWe pay yourVINCONDITIONS APPLYGOLD COASTBUDGET HOLIDAYSA great selection of budgetto luxury accommodation- units, hi-rise apartments& houses from BurleighHeads to Runaway Bayfrom $400pw off peak.View properties & availability atwww.fnbroadbeach.com.auFirst National BroadbeachPh: 0061-7-5592 5111Nation WideDeliveryCHARGES APPLYwww.melrosemotorsports.co.nz 0800 463 576MOOLOOLABASunshine CoastPhone for July, Nov & Feb SpecialsOverlooking marina –Sailport Mooloolaba Resort.4 star 1, 2 & 3 bdrm apartswith ensuites, air cond, views.Heated pool & spa. 100mfrom Mooloolaba S.L.S.C &golden beach, alfresco cafes,restaurants, bowling clubs.PH 0061 75 444 1844www.sailport.com.auSouth AmericaSmall groups + independent travellersCALL NOW FOR FREE 2013 BROCHURELatin Link AdventureThe South American Specialists0800 528 465/info@latinlink.co.nzwww.latinlink.co.nz0800 500 333Vehicle HistoryAA Vehicle History ReportKNOW THE HISTORY BEFORE YOU BUYWhy get an AA Vehicle History Report? For just $20.00 ($25.00 for non Members),we can tell you if the vehicle CALL0800 500 333Look for the bestin auto repair.We did.We looked for repairers who met ourexacting standards of service excellence.We have AA approved generalmechanical repairers for: And AA approved specialists for: aa.co.nzaa.co.nz/vehiclehistoryDIRECTORYPhone (09) 589 1054 Fax (09) 589 1055 E-mail debbie@hawkhurst.co.nz

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