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FEATURE8 applesbuttersultanashoneycinnamonbrown sugarcreme fraicheallspiceWINTER WARMERSBY MARTINBOSLEYILOVE WINTER. Far from beinga low point in the culinaryworld, it brings on an appetitefor hearty, slow-cooked stews,those sticky rich dishes that usecheaper cuts of meat, beans orroot vegetables – effective one-potmeals that nourish the soul. It’sabout steaming bowls of heavenlyfragrant Asian broths, and a lazypumpkin will quickly find itselfturned into a velvety smooth soupor a fragrant curry. Root vegetablesare roasted on a bed of salt,concentrating their sweetness,and desserts bring on a guiltyindulgence; if ever there was atime for a steamed pudding, thisis surely it. Winter food satisfies usdeeply, with mellowing comfortand warmth.It’s the fruit, though that I tendto favour. We may have seen theend of the stone and berry fruitsbut now is the time for pip fruits totake centre stage. Apples, pears,quinces and feijoas ask for littlemore than a consideration – slicedfruit embedded in a golden, butterycaramel and topped with puff pastrymakes the classic upside-down-tart,commonly known as tarte tatin,and takes hardly any time at all tomake. Hard, rose-scented quincesare a rare treat, cooked slowly untila deep garnet, ready to be addedto an apple pie or a frangipane tart.You can also serve them with roastpork or a chunk of cheese.A favourite pudding is bakedapples, stuffed with dried fruit andspices, served with a sauce madefrom crème fraiche and brownsugar – an easy butterscotchsauce, with just the right degree ofsourness. The spices alone fill thehouse with the kind of nostalgicaromatics you just want to snuggleinto and, for this cook, that is thevery essence of winter.WINTERMOTORING TIPKeep an emergency kitin your car with things like atorch, radio, spare batteries,and a charger for yourphone. In winter, it’d also payto keep a warm blanket andgood book in your car boot,in case you find yourselfstranded. Emergency kits areavailable at AA Centres.28 AA Directions Winter 2013