TRAVELLERCruising through TimeKarl Puschmann enjoys the luxury of a bygone era onboard the Queen Mary 2BESIDE US AT breakfast anold gent with wispy hairand a crisp, yellow shortsleevedshirt puts down hisfork, which is sticking outof a plump sausage, leans across histable and asks: “First timers, eh?”While it is our first time at sea, it’snot the first time we’ve been askedthis question. Seasoned cruisers spotus a nautical mile away.This isn’t down to wobbly sea legsor green gills, rather it’s becausethe majority of cruisers have a fairfew decades on us. Cruising, on thisparticular vessel at least, appears tobe an older person’s game.I suspected that this would be thecase, but cruising is something I’vealways wanted to do. Firstly, becausethere’s an easy appeal to it. All youhave to do is show up. Everythingelse takes care of itself.But, mainly, I wanted to go on acruise because it offers one of thefew surviving chances to experienceyesteryear’s fabled glamour of travel.Despite generations of recessions,technological innovations and thewallet-attracting economy of no-frillsflights, cruising has managed to retainits sense of occasion and old-worldromance. It is nostalgia at its mostalive and vibrant and opulent. It is,in a manner of speaking, time travel.Well, it is these things if you’re luckyenough to find yourself onboardthe Queen Mary 2, where all thetraditions, heritage and finery oftravelling by sea are rigorouslyadhered to, and the scale of onboardluxury is palpable.The QM2 is the flagship of CunardCruise Line's fleet, and she reallyis a bit special. During our voyagewe’re fortunate enough to have abrief audience with CommodoreChristopher Rynd, an incredibly wellspokenex-pat <strong>New</strong> <strong>Zealand</strong>er, whoinforms us that she is so impressive insize that she is not actually classed asa cruise ship. She is an ocean liner,which, as far as I can work out, is onlyone small step below being classed asa city. As far as my inaugural cruisegoes, I’m starting at the top.And so to our quarters, where abottle of champagne on ice awaitsus. The room is spacious andimmaculate, and we toast farewellto Sydney from our private balcony.Our voyage to Auckland gives usfour nights at sea, which we thoughtwould be ample time to explore andindulge and maybe even get a littlebored. Turns out we thought wrong.Despite our best efforts, we don’tmanage to see or sample everythingthe QM2 offers.66 AA Directions Winter 2013
TRAVELLER“Cruising retains itssense of occasion andold-world romance.It is nostalgia atits most alive andvibrant and opulent.“PHOTOGRAPHY: CUNARD/H.BARNETT/ K.PUSCHMANNBut this is understandable; afterall, it is called a ‘cruise’ and not a‘rush’. Trying to cram in too muchfeels almost counter-productive, like itwould be missing the point. Instead,over breakfast each morning, weperuse the Daily Progamme, which isdelivered to our room’s letterbox eachday, and mark out the activities we’dlike to get to.One afternoon we visit thePlanetarium and watch the galaxycome to life before our eyes. Anotherafternoon is spent sipping cocktails onsunloungers at one of the four outdoorswimming pools while the bandVibz provides a Caribbean-inspiredsoundtrack. The one greyish afternoonof our trip we while away with friendsin a booth, in the Golden Lion pub.One of the highlights is spent in thegrand Queen’s Room – the largestballroom on the ocean – where weenjoy the pomp and procedure ofHigh Tea. We manage to snaffle aprime table overlooking the dancefloor where the Adagio String Quartetis tuning up. At 3:30pm sharp a handbell rings out, silencing the expectantmurmurings of our fellow guests.Suddenly, the doors on either sideof the dance floor swing open and aflood of white gloved waiters carryingCLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: QM2 in Sydney;it's a hard life at sea; Commodore ChristopherRynd gives a tour of the bridge; a string quartetaids digestion during high tea; dinner beingprepared in the ship's galley.trays and tea pots come streamingout, as the quartet launches into itsset. We partake heartily of sconesand jam, and cakes and slices, andcucumber club sandwiches, andleave the ballroom quite satisfied anddistressingly full.We also manage to make time for amidday visit to the QM2’s day spa. Weopt for a couple’s ‘Rasul’ treatment.Neither of us know what a Rasultreatment entails but, as it’s one of thefew things in our price range that wecan do together, we book it in.After arriving at the three-level Spaand getting changed into robes, we’reled through the Aqua Therapy Centreand into an egg-shaped, blue tiledroom. It is here we are instructed inthe intricacies and exotic mysteries ofthe Rasul, which can be summed upthusly: get muddy, have a shower...While I enjoy my afternoons, it’s theevenings at sea that are the real treat,when I find myself transported to thatmore civilized age of bygone blackand white romanticism. When royaltyheld court on the high sea, peopledressed up and the big band swunginto the wee small hours.I attribute this feeling largely to thedress code, which is strictly enforcedand kicks in at 6pm on the dot. Afterdark, in port, you can get awaywith ‘elegant casual’, which looselytranslates as ‘tidy’. But, there is nothingloose about the tradition of ‘formalattire’ while at sea; suits or tuxedos forgents, evening gowns for the ladies. Atfirst, this intimidates both my partnerand I, but I quickly grow to appreciatehow much nicer things are wheneveryone visibly makes an effort,while she looks forward to spying themore flamboyantly outlandish dresseson parade.We enjoy some splendid diningonboard and each night bringssomething new and exciting to enjoy:we attend a ball, feast on a sevencourseJapanese degustation, enjoy livemusic and bubbles at an outdoor SailAway party where we farewell the Bayof Islands and, on one raucous night,warble karaoke before going clubbing.These activities are fun, but it’s thesmall moments when I catch myselfgazing out into the distance that thefull pleasure of cruising makes itselfknown. Those times, when relaxingon our balcony or taking a strollaround the ship’s 600 metre outdoorpromenade and I look out and realizethat this vast city of the sea – withall its movement and merriment– is surrounded by hundreds andhundreds of miles of emptiness.I find it peculiarly calming. I findit particularly appropriate. ←VISITOR INFORMATIONFor the Queen Mary 2’s worldwideitinerary, visit www.cunard.comFor travel insurance options, visitwww.aa.co.nz/travelVwww.aadirections.co.nz 67