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Without the Arno, Florence would be like Romolo - The Florentine

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18<br />

Thursday 8 February 2007<br />

Culture & CUSTOMS<br />

To whom we owe it all<br />

<strong>The</strong> legacy of Lady de’ Medici<br />

Carla Bardi (Ed.)<br />

<strong>The</strong> Little Big Cook Book<br />

by Mary Ann Pinto<br />

Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici<br />

(1667–1743) ought to <strong>be</strong> one<br />

of <strong>the</strong> most famous and popular<br />

<strong>Florentine</strong>s of all times, for it<br />

was she who turned <strong>Florence</strong> into<br />

a cultural mecca. With a stroke of<br />

her pen, she <strong>be</strong>quea<strong>the</strong>d <strong>the</strong> Medici’s<br />

jewels, pictures, sculptures,<br />

manuscripts and buildings to <strong>the</strong><br />

city of <strong>Florence</strong>. Yet she has <strong>be</strong>en<br />

overlooked and neglected for more<br />

than three centuries.<br />

Anna Maria’s fa<strong>the</strong>r, Grand<br />

Duke Cosimo III, was a weak<br />

and indolent ruler. Educated by a<br />

fanatic <strong>the</strong>ologian, Cosimo <strong>be</strong>came<br />

a gloomy, religious fanatic. He<br />

married <strong>the</strong> frivolous Margherita<br />

Luisa d’Orleans, who hated both<br />

her husband and Tuscany. From<br />

this unhappy union, three children<br />

were born: Ferdinando in 1663,<br />

Anna Maria Luisa in 1667 and<br />

Giangastone in 1671. Margherita<br />

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had tried to induce a miscarriage<br />

when pregnant with Anna Maria,<br />

by riding horseback at breakneck<br />

speed. She returned to France in<br />

1675.<br />

As a child, Anna Maria spent<br />

much time with her uncle, Cardinal<br />

Leopold de’ Medici, who taught<br />

her to love literature, art and music.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> age of 16 she had developed<br />

into a witty, attractive girl who<br />

drew and painted, loved music and<br />

had mastered Latin and most of<br />

<strong>the</strong> modern European languages.<br />

She was her fa<strong>the</strong>r’s favorite child,<br />

and he wanted to arrange a great<br />

marriage for her. But her parents’<br />

reputations had spread through <strong>the</strong><br />

courts of Europe, and <strong>be</strong>cause of<br />

this she was refused by <strong>the</strong> princes<br />

of Spain and Portugal, and by Louis<br />

XIV for <strong>the</strong> Dauphin of France. On<br />

June 5, 1691 she married <strong>the</strong> widower<br />

Johann Wilhelm II, Elector<br />

Palatine, and went to live in Duesseldorf.<br />

Anna Maria was a devoted<br />

wife and mourned her husband<br />

when he died in 1716. A year later,<br />

she returned to <strong>Florence</strong>, bringing<br />

back many paintings that she had<br />

acquired in Germany. She was welcomed<br />

joyously by Cosimo, who<br />

had not seen her for 27 years.<br />

Since none of his children had<br />

produced an heir, Cosimo tried to<br />

resolve <strong>the</strong> problem of succession<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Tuscan domain <strong>be</strong>fore his<br />

death in 1723, but without success.<br />

In 1731, <strong>the</strong> matter seemed to <strong>be</strong> settled<br />

to <strong>the</strong> satisfaction of <strong>the</strong> major<br />

powers of Europe. Even Giangastone<br />

was pleased with <strong>the</strong> choice of<br />

Don Carlos, <strong>the</strong> second son of Eliza<strong>be</strong>th<br />

Farnese and King Phillip V of<br />

Spain. <strong>The</strong> situation <strong>the</strong>n changed,<br />

and Don Carlos received <strong>the</strong> kingdom<br />

of Naples and Two Sicilies to<br />

rule instead. <strong>The</strong> state of Lorraine<br />

went to France, and <strong>the</strong> Duke of<br />

Lorraine, to compensate him for<br />

his loss, was given Tuscany.<br />

Giangastone’s conduct, which<br />

had always <strong>be</strong>en deplorable, continued<br />

to degenerate rapidly. He<br />

Life in Italy<br />

Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici<br />

reinforced himself for his rare public<br />

appearances by drinking heavily<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n often <strong>be</strong>haved in a<br />

slovenly manner. Anna Maria persuaded<br />

him to repent shortly <strong>be</strong>fore<br />

he died in July 1737. He confessed,<br />

was given communion and granted<br />

absolution by <strong>the</strong> pope.<br />

Three months later, Anna Maria<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Duke of Lorraine signed a<br />

pact by which <strong>the</strong> paintings, sculptures,<br />

manuscripts, jewels and<br />

all o<strong>the</strong>r precious possessions of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Medici were to <strong>be</strong> conserved<br />

as possessions of <strong>the</strong> State, never<br />

to <strong>be</strong> taken from Tuscany. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

were to <strong>be</strong> used for public enjoyment<br />

and to attract foreigner visitors.<br />

Most of <strong>the</strong> works of art in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Uffi zi, almost everything in <strong>the</strong><br />

Pitti Palace, much of what is in <strong>the</strong><br />

Bargello, <strong>the</strong> Laurentian Library<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Medici Chapels in <strong>the</strong><br />

church of San Lorenzo (including<br />

Michelangelo’s statues) are only<br />

part of Anna Maria’s legacy.<br />

For centuries most <strong>Florentine</strong>s,<br />

historians and tourists have overlooked<br />

<strong>the</strong> lady who is responsible<br />

for this city’s incredible artistic<br />

patrimony. <strong>The</strong> only reminders of<br />

her existence were a few meters of<br />

street leading to <strong>the</strong> Uffi zi along<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Arno</strong> and a portrait on <strong>the</strong><br />

ground fl oor of <strong>the</strong> Uffi zi. <strong>The</strong>n,<br />

in 1945, <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>n mayor of <strong>Florence</strong><br />

Gaetano Pieraccini, a great<br />

admirer of Anna Maria, launched<br />

a contest for a statue of her. Raffaello<br />

Salim<strong>be</strong>ni won, but he did not<br />

complete <strong>the</strong> statue until 1971. It<br />

was temporarily placed at <strong>the</strong> foot<br />

of a back staircase in <strong>the</strong> Pitti Palace,<br />

awaiting a decision about its<br />

permanent location. Finally <strong>the</strong><br />

statue was placed at <strong>the</strong> base of <strong>the</strong><br />

campanile of San Lorenzo (which<br />

Anna Maria had commissioned)<br />

and unveiled on February 18, 1995,<br />

<strong>the</strong> 252nd anniversary of her death.<br />

While this sounds <strong>like</strong> a suitable<br />

position, <strong>the</strong> truth of <strong>the</strong> matter is<br />

that <strong>the</strong> market stalls in <strong>the</strong> street<br />

literally hide <strong>the</strong> statue. Nor do <strong>the</strong><br />

www.<strong>the</strong>fl orentine.net<br />

bicycles chained to <strong>the</strong> fence surrounding<br />

it or <strong>the</strong> trash-bags littering<br />

<strong>the</strong> ground add to <strong>the</strong> attraction<br />

of <strong>the</strong> site. Despite protests from<br />

<strong>the</strong> sculptor’s widow and a petition<br />

of 1,000 signatures ga<strong>the</strong>red by <strong>the</strong><br />

Association of Tourist Guides, <strong>the</strong><br />

statue has not <strong>be</strong>en moved.<br />

An exhibition dedicated to Anna<br />

Maria runs from until April 15,<br />

2007 in <strong>the</strong> Palatine Gallery of <strong>the</strong><br />

Pitti Palace, where she lived, and in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Villa Quiete, where she stayed<br />

during <strong>the</strong> hottest months of summer.<br />

Hopefully, after this exhibition<br />

Anna Maria will have won <strong>the</strong> recognition<br />

she deserves.<br />

After spending fi ve vacations as a<br />

guest at <strong>the</strong> Pensione Pitti Palace,<br />

Mary Ann Pinto moved to <strong>Florence</strong><br />

in l971 and married <strong>the</strong> manager.<br />

She helped him run <strong>the</strong> hotel until<br />

<strong>the</strong>y retired in Octo<strong>be</strong>r 1991.<br />

Her recollections of those years is<br />

recorded in Diary of an Italian Innkeeper’s<br />

Wife, which she is preparing<br />

for publication.<br />

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