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eat style oughout enturies - Copenhagen Tourist

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<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

To u r i s t<br />

Explore<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Sights &<br />

Attractions<br />

Shopping &<br />

Dining<br />

Museums &<br />

Collections<br />

<strong>Tourist</strong> Information<br />

& Maps<br />

FREE COPY<br />

2012-2013


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Exploring <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

From cargo bikes to pocket parks and canal kayaking<br />

One of the world’s most liveable cities, Copen hagen lets you<br />

explore its neighbourhoods by waterbus, kayak and bicycle.<br />

And already famed for its romantic parklands, the city now<br />

adds new activity parks to its green credentials<br />

Whether you arrive from the airport by the<br />

sleek fully-automated metro, dock in the<br />

historic harbour by cruise liner, or roll into<br />

town on the superbridge from Sweden, one<br />

thing is almost sure to strike you – the smooth<br />

ease with which you move about the Danish<br />

capital. and no matter how you explore the<br />

city – by waterbus, kayak or bicycle – you<br />

are sure to enjoy the city’s easygoing quality<br />

of life. a youthful city, <strong>Copenhagen</strong> is home<br />

to many young families who cart their<br />

children around in cargo bikes – in fact, more<br />

than 55 percent of citizens use their bicycle<br />

18 cph-tourist.dk<br />

daily. With affordable day-care and plenty of<br />

green space and community amenities,<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> is designed for family life.<br />

living by The sea<br />

a celebrated design capital, <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

lends its old-world charm to modern living.<br />

new urban icons have emerged across town,<br />

not least along the harbourfront. Designed as<br />

temples to the arts, they also offer foyer<br />

restaurants and cafés, such as at the Royal<br />

Danish playhouse, the opera house and the<br />

Black Diamond.<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> has always<br />

had one foot in the sea<br />

– and now even more so.<br />

new urban docklands<br />

have been cr<strong>eat</strong>ed in<br />

Sluseholmen where many<br />

residents can board their<br />

kayaks directly from their living<br />

room. You can explore these<br />

districts on guided sea kayak<br />

tours or visit by waterbus (no 904 from<br />

nyhavn). and you can cruise the city’s old<br />

canals by tour boats. In the <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

harbour itself public baths let swimmers dip<br />

into the clean waters – or play water polo –<br />

at several locations, including Islands Brygge.<br />

Canal tours www.canaltours.dk<br />

Guided kayak tours www.kajakole.dk<br />

Guided bicycle tours www.cykelsafari.dk<br />

Guided running tours<br />

www.running-copenhagen.dk<br />

Jazz in Nyhavn.<br />

Amager Strand www.amagerstrand.dk


The city has also invested in a five-kilometre<br />

manmade sandy beach, amager Strand,<br />

complete with water sports such as kite<br />

surfing – just seven minutes from downtown<br />

by metro.<br />

opening in September 2012 is <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s<br />

new floating fish market by the new harbour<br />

promenade along havnegade, close to<br />

nyhavn Canal. The covered fish market will<br />

also f<strong>eat</strong>ure a panoramic café.<br />

designer green spaces<br />

a green city, <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s many leafy parks<br />

have each their own character and life. Family<br />

birthday parties, open-air concerts – even<br />

weddings – are a part of the experience. Just<br />

a few hundred meters apart, several of the<br />

city’s grand urban parks are located on<br />

what used to be the city’s old medieval<br />

ramparts. <strong>Copenhagen</strong> has recently vowed<br />

to give residents no more than 15 minutes’<br />

walk to the nearest green space. pocket<br />

parks are popping up citywide. one of the<br />

city’s most popular parks for ballgames and<br />

open-air concerts, Fælledparken has recently<br />

H. C. Ørstedsparken - on of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s most popular green parks.<br />

trans formed into an activity park. and<br />

Super kilen, a new global park designed by<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> practice BIg (see page 49), is<br />

set to open in 2012, f<strong>eat</strong>uring trees and park<br />

furniture sourced from around the world.<br />

Market places and sports activity zones add<br />

to the park’s urban liveability.<br />

The urban village in Nørrebro.<br />

Three greaT ways To<br />

discover copenhagen<br />

copenhagen<br />

– for urban explorers<br />

explore <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s canals and waterways<br />

by kayak. Visit the new covered<br />

food market, Torvehallerne, the<br />

Danish Architecture Centre and<br />

Designmuseum Denmark. Ride<br />

through the Dyrehaven deer park on<br />

bicycles. and discover the city’s urban<br />

villages in Christiania and Nørrebro.<br />

copenhagen<br />

– for families<br />

Climb the corkscrew stairway of the<br />

golden spire of Our Saviour’s Church –<br />

or the winding walkway of the Round<br />

Tower. Visit the new arctic habitat in<br />

Copen hagen Zoo opening in the<br />

autumn 2012! go to Nyhavn Canal and<br />

hop aboard a tour boat. Spend a day in<br />

Tivoli – a truly magical amusement park.<br />

copenhagen<br />

– The good life<br />

Visit the home of designer Finn Juhl<br />

at the Ordrupgaard Museum, or the<br />

world-famous Louisiana Museum of<br />

Modern Art. Discover royal attrac tions<br />

such as Kronborg Castle, the setting of<br />

Shakespeare’s Hamlet – or Rosenborg<br />

Castle, home of the Crown Jewels.<br />

enjoy jazz and nordic gourmet cuisine<br />

in Tivoli.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 19


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Strøget One mile of<br />

shopping and history<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s main shopping street is more than a retail runway.<br />

It’s also a place of history with architectural gems and inspiring<br />

wonders<br />

The world’s first pedestrian street! That was<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s boast back in 1962 when the<br />

city introduced the then-novel notion of<br />

car-free shopping. and in 2012 the street<br />

celebrates its 50th anniversary on 1 Sep-<br />

20 cph-tourist.dk<br />

tember. Cities all around the world have since<br />

copied the idea but Strøget – literally “The<br />

Sweep” – is still one of the most varied and<br />

historically interesting. each section has its<br />

own character and indeed its own name.<br />

reTail royalTy<br />

at the Kongens Nytorv entrance to Strøget<br />

you find Østergade with its department<br />

stores and international luxury wear<br />

boutiques. Østergade opens onto one of<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s most picturesque squares,<br />

Amagertorv. and here the first thing you<br />

should do is look down! The intricate<br />

multicoloured granite paving is designed<br />

by one of Denmark’s leading contemporary<br />

artists, Bjørn nørgaard, who drew inspiration<br />

from arabian geometric patterns. Then look<br />

left for a perfect view to Christiansborg<br />

Palace, the Danish parliament (see page 36).<br />

Surprisingly, the axe-wielding warrior you<br />

see on the rearing equestrian statue is a<br />

clergyman! namely, Bishop Absalon (1128-<br />

1201) – a man of hot royal blood and<br />

determination who founded the city in 1167.<br />

Facing the square is one of the city’s oldest<br />

houses, built in Dutch Renaissance <strong>style</strong><br />

in 1606. Today, the building is home to the<br />

flagship store of one of europe’s finest<br />

porcelain manufacturers, Royal <strong>Copenhagen</strong>.<br />

Flanking the building is the showcase store<br />

of Danish silverware legend georg Jensen<br />

and exclusive design hive Illums Bolighus.<br />

romanTically eclecTic<br />

You might hear celestial organ music as<br />

you pass the Church of the Holy Spirit<br />

(helligåndskirken) on the next leg of Strøget,<br />

called Vimmelskaftet. Daily concerts are<br />

given in the seventeenth-century church. The<br />

The sTork founTain<br />

The amagertorv fountain with storks<br />

taking to their wings and water-spewing<br />

toads hasn’t always been a romantic<br />

gathering place. Designed by one of<br />

Denmark’s most renowned sculptors,<br />

Vilhelm Bissen (1836-1913), the fountain<br />

was unveiled in 1888 – much to the<br />

annoyance of many townspeople and<br />

press critics, who found it ill-placed and<br />

hideous. Scuffles broke out and the police<br />

was called in to dampen tempers.


The cariTas founTain<br />

The centrepiece of one of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s<br />

oldest squares, gammeltorv, is a renaissance<br />

fountain (1608) symbolising charity<br />

(Caritas). The small group of figures shows<br />

the embodiment of charity with water<br />

spewing from her breasts and her two<br />

children, one of which, a little boy, is<br />

piddling into the fountain, much as the<br />

Manneken pis of Brussels. on the Queen’s<br />

birthday (16 april) and other state<br />

occasions three golden globes are added<br />

to dance atop the water jets.<br />

10% discount<br />

shrunkEn hEads, scarEs and laughs and fairytalEs<br />

Rådhuspladsen 57 (City hall Square)<br />

visiT The funniesT<br />

hOuses in TOwn<br />

Exciting world rEcords, scarEs and laughs<br />

Østergade 16 (The walking street)<br />

Map page 22 2<br />

Map page 22 3<br />

Opening hOurs: frOm 10:00 am every day<br />

TelephOne: +45 33 32 31 31 · www.ripleys.dk · infO@TOpaTTracTiOns.dk cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 21


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

street opens onto one of the city’s most<br />

historic squares, each section with its own<br />

name. To the left, Nytorv (new Market),<br />

which was cr<strong>eat</strong>ed when the city’s old town<br />

hall was reduced to ashes in 1728, and to<br />

the right Gammeltorv (old Market), which<br />

has been a market square for some 800<br />

years. Design buffs may like to know that<br />

the modernist corner building on the square<br />

was designed by arne Jacobsen (see page<br />

48). Facing nytorv is the neoclassical city<br />

magistrate, designed by the very same<br />

architect, C. F. hansen (1756-1845), who<br />

rebuilt the fire-ravaged Church of Our Lady<br />

(Vor Frue Kirke) nearby (see page 27). In the<br />

middle of nytorv you see a granite plinth<br />

marking where the city’s gallows once stood.<br />

The last stretch of Strøget – Frederiksberggade<br />

– takes you to <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s City Hall<br />

Square with its romantically eclectic city<br />

hall (1905) designed by Martin nyrop (1849-<br />

1921). Like several of the buildings facing<br />

22 cph-tourist.dk<br />

2<br />

15<br />

the square, not least the palace hotel (1909),<br />

this particularly Danish flavour of the<br />

“national Romance” <strong>style</strong> draws on fluid<br />

elements of art nouveau. Visit the City hall<br />

and its mechanical wonder – the world<br />

clock by Jens olsen.<br />

museums along The way<br />

– for The whole family<br />

on Strøget and the <strong>Copenhagen</strong> City<br />

hall Square you’ll find four museums with<br />

a difference: Guinness World of Records<br />

with records in sport, art, music, nature<br />

and science. The Mystic Exploratorie – a<br />

world of strange phenomena. Hans<br />

Christian Andersen’s Wonderful World<br />

– his fairytales with exciting light and<br />

sound effects. and finally Ripley’s Believe<br />

It or not! – you have to see it to believe it.<br />

www.ripleys.dk<br />

7<br />

4<br />

16<br />

14<br />

13<br />

8<br />

1<br />

17<br />

11<br />

12<br />

5<br />

10<br />

3<br />

6


Pixies<br />

Posters<br />

Music<br />

Christmas cards<br />

Paper cutouts<br />

- in the heart of <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Danish Art & Christmas Shop<br />

Danish designed and traditional handmade<br />

Christmas-ornaments and paper cuts for all seasons<br />

Knabrostræde 3, 1210 <strong>Copenhagen</strong> K | www.danishshop.dk | phone (+45) 33 32 31 61<br />

Map page 22 4<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 23


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

24 cph-tourist.dk<br />

ExpEriEncE all


of Tivoli GardEns<br />

Seasons in Tivoli<br />

There is always something going<br />

on in the Tivoli Gardens.<br />

Summer 12 Apr. - 23 Sep.<br />

Halloween 12 Oct. - 28 Oct.<br />

Christmas 16 Nov. - 30 Dec.<br />

Nimb<br />

Nimb is a gastronomic palace of<br />

unprecedented dimensions and also<br />

has a hotel within the heart of Tivoli<br />

Gardens.<br />

Restaurants<br />

Tivoli Gardens has enough<br />

restaurants to cater every taste –<br />

whether you prefer modern cuisine,<br />

traditional Danish food, fast food<br />

or our high-end restaurants.<br />

Entertainment<br />

Tivoli Gardens has a large variety<br />

of venues, rides, and amusements.<br />

The Tivoli Gardens has<br />

something for all ages and sizes.<br />

www.TivoliGardEns.com<br />

Map page 135 1<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 25


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

The <strong>Copenhagen</strong> Soho<br />

From urban chic to Latin Quarter charm<br />

A warm blend of designer chic, old-world charm and universityzone<br />

cafés, the <strong>Copenhagen</strong> Soho between Kongens Nytorv and<br />

the Latin Quarter is a patchwork of urban villages and boutique<br />

buzz<br />

26 cph-tourist.dk<br />

Kronprinsensgade.<br />

The busy pedestrianised high street, Købmagergade.<br />

Mile-long Strøget is the undisputed shop -<br />

ping mecca of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>, but the narrow<br />

streets leading off the high street beckon<br />

you away from the bustle to revel in their<br />

unique, inviting atmosphere. Take Pistolstræde,<br />

a quaint pistol-shaped street and<br />

courtyard just off ny Østergade, where you<br />

can savour the cuisine and the old world<br />

charm of Restaurant l’Alsace. Mere steps<br />

from the Kongens nytorv metro station,<br />

pistol stræde is a hidden gem with an<br />

entrancing mix of restaurants, chocolatiers,<br />

exclusive Danish woollens, and a sprinkling<br />

of designer hives. Move on to historic<br />

grønnegade, once a long-ago garden edging<br />

the old city ramparts. There, chic shoe shops<br />

and other speciality boutiques vie for<br />

shoppers’ attention. Then there’s the universe<br />

of Contrast on Hovedvagtsgade, where<br />

you will find the best of kitchenware and<br />

design. and on nearby Ny Østergade, don’t<br />

miss the magnificent ole Lynggaard flagship<br />

store for luxury jewellery.<br />

hip urban village<br />

nearby, the Pilestræde/Kronprinsensgade<br />

area lures shoppers to its buzzy blend of<br />

flagship stores, design showcases and<br />

hipster hangouts. home to one of Denmark’s<br />

best-known dailies, Berlingske, this part of<br />

town caters to young professionals and<br />

cr<strong>eat</strong>ive urbanites alike. one-time journalist<br />

dive bars are now hives of design and the<br />

urban village of Kronprinsensgade is a<br />

treasure trove of classic cafés and youthful<br />

Danish design.<br />

a Tiny germany<br />

Don’t miss the historic Skt. Petri Church<br />

in the heart of the Latin Quarter. Much of<br />

the original design dates back to the<br />

fifteenth and sixteenth century, although<br />

the Rococo spire from 1757 only miraculously<br />

survived the bombardment of the<br />

city in 1807 by the British navy. Indeed,<br />

several of the cannonballs that struck the<br />

church hang today in chains from its<br />

vaulted ceilings. The church has served the<br />

german Lutheran community in <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

since 1585 and its tranquil churchyard<br />

gardens are today used as a playground<br />

for the next-door kindergarten.<br />

Visitors are welcome to the church and a<br />

tour of the galleries with their tombs and<br />

epitaphs to many local german dignitaries<br />

is recommended.<br />

www.sankt-petri.dk


neighbouring Købmagergade, once lined<br />

with butcher shops, is now a pedestrianised<br />

high street. The m<strong>eat</strong>y legacy continues at<br />

the nørreport end, where two butcher shops<br />

still ply their trade. on your way, stop in at the<br />

impressive Round Tower (see page 28),<br />

originally built as an observatory. peter the<br />

gr<strong>eat</strong> once rode a horse up the winding<br />

corridor to the top – but you‘ll have to walk!<br />

Weary shoppers can opt for the elevator at<br />

the nearby Post & Tele Museum (see page<br />

107), whose restaurant has a terrace with<br />

splendid cityscape views.<br />

soaking up The sTudenT vibe<br />

The Latin Quarter takes in the area around<br />

the old university and cathedral. Drop into<br />

paludan’s bookshop on Fiolstræde for the<br />

studenty atmosphere and a frothy latte,<br />

then turn on Frue plads to visit the Church<br />

of Our Lady and native son Thorvaldsen’s<br />

statues of a very nordic-looking Jesus and his<br />

12 disciples. The neoclassical church was<br />

erected on the ruins of the gothic cathedral<br />

destroyed by the British during the Battle of<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> in 1807. Don’t miss the<br />

splendidly boxy Gråbrødretorv – named<br />

after the black friar’s abbey that once stood<br />

there. Today, the square is ringed with lively<br />

restaurants offering outdoor s<strong>eat</strong>ing nearly<br />

year-round. Feeling funky? head down Skt<br />

Pederstræde and Larsbjørnsstræde for a<br />

grungy mosaic of music stores, organic<br />

<strong>eat</strong>eries and edgy boutiques.<br />

Hovedvagtsgade 6<br />

1103 Cph. K +45 33 33 04<br />

www.contrast-is.dk<br />

mail: contrast@contrast-is.dk<br />

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Sweets from Sømods are synonymous<br />

with Danish quality without any<br />

artificial additives. Come and watch<br />

as the sweets are made.<br />

Sømods Bolcher<br />

Nørregade 36 and 24 • 1165 <strong>Copenhagen</strong> K<br />

Tel.: 3312 6046 • Email: bolcher@soemod.dk<br />

Opening hours and further information on<br />

www.soemods-bolcher.dk<br />

Map page 22 5 Map page 22 6 Map page 135 40<br />

C<br />

O NTRAST<br />

The cosy Store Kannikestræde.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 27


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

You You can can spot spot most most of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s famous buildings famous from buildings the platform from that the runs platform around that the Round runs Tower. around the Round Tower.<br />

The Round Tower – Rundetaarn<br />

The Round ToweR<br />

Lookout Tower Tower – – Observatory – Exhibitions – Exhibitions – Concerts – Concerts<br />

One<br />

One of<br />

of<br />

the<br />

the<br />

best-known<br />

best­known<br />

and most<br />

and most<br />

popular<br />

popular<br />

structures<br />

structures<br />

in Denmark, the Round Tower has been a distinctive f<strong>eat</strong>ure of the <strong>Copenhagen</strong> skyline<br />

up the tower is the entrance to the large and stunningly beautiful<br />

since 1642.<br />

in Denmark, the Round Tower has been a distinctive Library hall, which now serves as a popular gallery and concert venue.<br />

The Tower once soared far above the rest of the rooftops in the city, and University astronomers studied the stars and planets from the<br />

f<strong>eat</strong>ure of the <strong>Copenhagen</strong> skyline since 1642.<br />

It hosts several exhibitions and concerts a year.<br />

Observatory at the top. Today visitors are still able to gaze at the cosmos from Europe’s oldest functioning observatory. The platform that<br />

The runs Tower around once the soared outside far of above the Observatory the rest of the affords rooftops views in the over city, the old above Latin the Quarter Library – is from the here, Bell Loft, you notable can spot for most its enormous of the city’s wooden famous<br />

and buildings. University astronomers studied the stars and planets from beams, which were used in the reconstruction of the Tower following<br />

the The observatory Round Tower at does the top. not Today have an visitors elevator, are still so able visitors to have gaze at to climb the the gr<strong>eat</strong> winding, fire of white-washed Copen hagen in Spiral 1728. The Walk, Loft where is also kids home often to a small hide in<br />

the niches, cosmos only from to europe’s jump out oldest shouting functioning “boo!” as observatory. adults approach. The Halfway exhibition up the of tower fascinating is the artefacts entrance from to the Tower’s large history. and stunningly beautiful<br />

platform Library Hall, that runs which around now the serves outside as a of popular the observatory gallery and affords concert views venue. It hosts several exhibitions and concerts a year.<br />

over Above the the old Library Latin Quarter is the Bell – from Loft, here, notable you for can its spot enormous most of wooden the beams, The Round which Tower were was used built in by the Christian reconstruction IV between of 1637 the Tower and 1642. following It<br />

city’s<br />

the gr<strong>eat</strong><br />

famous<br />

fire<br />

buildings.<br />

of <strong>Copenhagen</strong> in 1728. The Loft is also home to a small<br />

was<br />

exhibition<br />

the first part<br />

of fascinating<br />

of the Trinitatis<br />

artefacts<br />

Complex,<br />

from<br />

which<br />

the Tower’s<br />

combined<br />

history.<br />

church,<br />

library and observatory in a single building.<br />

The The Round Tower Tower does was built not by have Christian an elevator, IV between so visitors 1637 have and to 1642. climb It was the first part of the Trinitatis Complex, which combined church, library and obser-<br />

the vatory winding, in a single white-washed building. Spiral Walk, where kids often hide in the Conducted tours of the Round Tower – special events for companies.<br />

niches, only to jump out shouting “boo!” as adults approach. halfway For further information, please refer to: www.rundetaarn.dk<br />

Conducted tours of the Round Tower – special events for companies.<br />

28 cph-tourist.dk<br />

For further information, please refer to: www.rundetaarn.dk<br />

Photo: Ron Graybill


The Spiral Walk winds seven and a half times<br />

around the hollow core of the tower and is quite<br />

unique in European architecture.<br />

The Library Hall served as a gallery and<br />

concert venue since 1987.<br />

It was once the home (1657-1861) of the<br />

entire University book collection and housed<br />

approximately 10.000 books.<br />

The The Round Round Towers Towers shop shop and café and are café located are located in the Library in the in Library the middle in the of the middle tower. of the tower.<br />

The Spiral Walk winds seven and a half times<br />

The Library Hall served as a gallery and<br />

around the hollow core of the tower and is quite The<br />

concert<br />

Library<br />

venue<br />

Hall served<br />

since<br />

as<br />

1987.<br />

a gallery and concert venue<br />

since 1987.<br />

The unique Spiral in Walk European winds seven architecture. and a half times around the It<br />

It<br />

was<br />

was<br />

once<br />

once<br />

the<br />

the<br />

home<br />

home (1657-1861)<br />

(1657-1861) of<br />

of<br />

the<br />

the<br />

entire<br />

hollow core of the tower and is quite unique in European University entire University book collection book collection and housed and approximately housed<br />

architecture.<br />

10.000 approximately books. 10.000 books.<br />

The Round Towers shop and café are located in the Library in the middle of the tower.<br />

The Spiral Walk winds seven and a half times<br />

around the hollow core of the tower and is quite<br />

unique in European architecture.<br />

The Library Hall served as a gallery and<br />

concert venue since 1987.<br />

It was once the home (1657-1861) of the<br />

The<br />

Round ToweR<br />

magnificenT view oveR<br />

The old ciTy<br />

The oldesT funcTioning<br />

obseRvaToRy in euRope<br />

exhibiTions<br />

conceRTs<br />

The<br />

Round ToweR<br />

magnificenT view oveR<br />

The old ciTy<br />

The oldesT funcTioning<br />

obseRvaToRy in euRope<br />

exhibiTions<br />

conceRTs<br />

Map page 135 27<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 29


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Rosenborg Castle &<br />

The King’s Garden<br />

Rosenborg Slot & Kongens Have<br />

A royal hermitage set in leafy gardens in the heart of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>,<br />

Rosenborg Castle f<strong>eat</strong>ures 400 years of epoch interiors, royal<br />

collections and the nation’s well-guarded Crown Jewels and Royal<br />

Regalia<br />

Rosenborg Castle was constructed in 1606<br />

by Christian IV (1577-1648) as a small summer<br />

hermitage surrounded by fields and<br />

30 cph-tourist.dk<br />

farms. originally a two-storied building with<br />

a modest tower, Rosenborg was developed<br />

in 1624 into the Dutch Renaissance castle<br />

we know today. Rosenborg is home to<br />

the Royal Danish Collections with objects<br />

related to 400 years of royal rule, from<br />

Christian IV to Frederik VII. In the vaulted<br />

cellars you find the Royal Treasury and the<br />

well-guarded Crown Jewels and Royal<br />

Regalia.<br />

Christian IV (1577-1648) was very fond<br />

of Rosenborg Castle and much preferred<br />

staying there to the far larger Frederiksborg<br />

Castle in hillerød (see page 72), which he<br />

had also built. In 1648 at the age of 70, his<br />

dying wish was to be taken by sleigh in the<br />

dark of winter from Frederiksborg Castle to<br />

Rosenborg Castle, which had provided the<br />

setting for so many years of his life. Later<br />

kings have also left their mark on Rosenborg.<br />

Christian IV’s son, Frederik III (1609-1670)<br />

and Queen Sophie amalie modernised the<br />

rooms, and their son, Christian V (1646-99)<br />

had the entire banqueting hall covered with<br />

12 tapestries commemorating the Scanian<br />

War against Sweden (1675-79).<br />

however, King Frederik IV (1671-1730) was<br />

the monarch who set to work most eagerly<br />

of all on modernising the castle, and slowly<br />

the Renaissance <strong>style</strong> gave way to Baroque.<br />

The king visited Italy several times, bringing<br />

home valuable gifts such as his famous<br />

collection of Venetian glass.<br />

Rosenborg nonetheless soon became too<br />

small for the splendour-loving king and he<br />

relocated to the newly built Frederiksberg<br />

Castle. Rosenborg Rosenborg Slot was Outline_05.qxp never again used as 21-03<br />

Map page 135 4


a royal residence and in 1833 it became the<br />

showcase setting for the Royal Danish<br />

Collections.<br />

The royal danish collecTions<br />

– and The crown Jewels<br />

The Danish Crown Jewels are kept in special<br />

vaults with access from the Rosenborg<br />

basement. The first Crown Regalia were<br />

placed at the castle during the reign of<br />

Christian V. Later, Queen Consort Sophie<br />

Magdalene, married to King Christian VI<br />

(1699-1746), bequ<strong>eat</strong>hed her jewels and<br />

regalia to the collection and since then<br />

the Crown Jewels have seen new additions to<br />

the collections, most recently in 1840.<br />

even today the jewels are still worn by<br />

Denmark’s present monarch, Queen<br />

Margrethe II, at state functions.<br />

The Royal Danish Collections also include<br />

the royal baptismal font and basin as well as<br />

a water pitcher and two candlesticks – all of<br />

pure gold. Since 1671, the christening basin<br />

has been used for the christening of all royal<br />

Queen Louise’s private chambers at the Amalienborg Museum.<br />

infants – most recently in april 2011, when<br />

the twins, prince Vincent and princess<br />

Josephine (youngest son and daughter of<br />

Crown prince Frederik and Crown princess<br />

Mary) were christened in holmens Kirke<br />

(Church) in <strong>Copenhagen</strong>.<br />

amalienborg palace in the chambers of<br />

Christian VIII. The Royal Collections are<br />

divided according to the royal dynasty<br />

to which they belong. Collections of the<br />

house of oldenborg, i.e. older than 1863,<br />

are displayed at Rosenborg whereas the<br />

million visitors a year who enjoy the free<br />

open-air jazz and the puppet th<strong>eat</strong>re.<br />

and there are cafés and <strong>eat</strong>eries by the<br />

rhododendrons and rose gardens.<br />

The amalienborg museum<br />

later collections of the house of glücksborg<br />

In 1994, the Royal Danish Collections at<br />

are showcased at amalienborg palace.<br />

Rosenborg Amalienborg Castle Outline_05.qxp opened a department 21-03-20 at<br />

The amalienborg Museum houses permanent<br />

exhibitions covering the period<br />

1863-1972 and also f<strong>eat</strong>ures special<br />

exhibitions with relation to the Danish Royal<br />

Family.<br />

Amalienborg Museum<br />

The Mansion of Christian VIII<br />

Map page 135 3<br />

Opening hours: See page 114 & 119.<br />

The king’s garden<br />

The Rosenborg Castle gardens – commonly<br />

known as Kongens have (The King’s garden)<br />

– were laid out in 1606 when the castle<br />

was first built. Today, the romantic gardens<br />

are a popular oasis. The park has three<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 31


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Strædet and Nikolaj Plads<br />

Winding down in <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Twinned with <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s main shopping drag, Strøget, is a<br />

unique parallel street called Strædet, which offers an inspired<br />

sense of slow-living<br />

In Strædet high street hustle and bustle gives<br />

way to a world of contemporary art spaces,<br />

sidewalk cafés, and one-off boutiques.<br />

musical deTour<br />

as you reach the end of the first section of<br />

Strædet, called Lavendelstræde, take a short<br />

detour down history lane in Magstræde, a<br />

cobbled street with some of the city’s oldest<br />

half-timber homes. numbers 17-19 date back<br />

to the 1700s, and Italian composer giuseppe<br />

Sarti lived in no. 10 from 1773-75. Imagine<br />

one of his pianoforte sonatas as you head<br />

up Knabrostræde to join the next leg of<br />

32 cph-tourist.dk<br />

Strædet called Kompagnistræde. here you’ll<br />

find one of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s swinging legends,<br />

the La Fontaine jazz club.<br />

conTemporary arT<br />

Converging with Strøget, the last leg of<br />

Strædet is called Læderstræde. here you find<br />

the current entrance to one of the city’s<br />

contemporary art spaces, Kunstforeningen<br />

Gammel Strand. For further artistic<br />

inspiration continue across amagertorv to<br />

Nikolaj Plads where the converted church<br />

dating back to the 1200s is home to the<br />

Nikolaj <strong>Copenhagen</strong> Contemporary Art<br />

Centre (see page 100). The square also offers<br />

shady, out-of-the-way cafés.<br />

seafood and secreTs<br />

If you’ve worked up a princely appetite you<br />

might want to visit the Michelin-rated<br />

gourmet restaurant Kong Hans Kælder on<br />

Vingaardstræde. Then head to holmens Canal<br />

in the direction of gammel Strand. here,<br />

you’ll enjoy a magnificent view not only of<br />

the spires and copper roofs of Slotsholmen<br />

(see page 36) but also of the merchant<br />

townhouses that face them all the way along<br />

Gammel Strand. This is the oldest part of<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>, the original coastline where<br />

fishermen for c<strong>enturies</strong> landed their bounty.<br />

Map page 135 9


<strong>Copenhagen</strong> for kids<br />

A gr<strong>eat</strong> city for families to explore and discover, <strong>Copenhagen</strong> has<br />

much to offer – not least for children<br />

Relax along the Nyhavn canal.<br />

Fun, educational, inspiring – <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s<br />

attractions are gr<strong>eat</strong> places for kids. art<br />

museums such as Louisiana and the national<br />

gallery of Denmark f<strong>eat</strong>ure cr<strong>eat</strong>ive spaces<br />

for budding young artists. The national<br />

Museum of Denmark has a children’s play<br />

zone with hands-on exhibits and storytelling.<br />

Kids can play in a pirate ship at the Royal<br />

Danish naval Museum. and they can burn<br />

energy running up the winding walkway in<br />

the Round Tower (see page 28) – there are no<br />

steps and the views are awe-inspiring.<br />

polar bears and biospheres<br />

Watch polar bears as they swim – from an<br />

underwater glass tunnel in the new arctic<br />

zone at <strong>Copenhagen</strong> Zoo, opening in autumn<br />

2012. There is more animal fun in the tropical<br />

biospheres and african habitats. In 2012<br />

you can also still visit Denmark’s aquarium in<br />

its 1930s heritage home before it relocates<br />

to a spectacular new home in 2013 (se page<br />

111). and you can enjoy hands-on learning<br />

at <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s science centre, experi -<br />

men ta rium, with more than 300 interactive<br />

experiences – a gr<strong>eat</strong> place for kids to learn<br />

about the world around them (see page 115).<br />

Tivoli is lots of fun.<br />

Jazz for Kids, part of the <strong>Copenhagen</strong> Jazz<br />

Festival (6-15 June). www.jazz.dk<br />

The Knight’s Market at Esrum Abbey (23-24<br />

June). experience the age of chivalry at an<br />

authentic medieval setting with battle re-<br />

enactments. www.esrum.dk<br />

The Round Tower.<br />

Three greaT fesTivals for kids in 2012<br />

parkland fun and rides<br />

one of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s best-kept secrets is<br />

the open-air Museum, which is one of the<br />

world’s largest f<strong>eat</strong>uring more than 100<br />

heritage farms and watermills. You can also<br />

visit the royal deer park, Dyrehaven, where<br />

you can ride through the woods in a horse<br />

and carriage – to the family amusement<br />

park Bakken. and no visit to <strong>Copenhagen</strong> is<br />

complete without a day in Tivoli (see<br />

page 24) – one of the world’s most magical<br />

pleasure parks with white-knuckle rides,<br />

parade bands and family fun. and it’s right in<br />

the heart of town!<br />

CPH Pro 2012 (26-29 July). The city’s professional<br />

skaters battle it out at the skate park in<br />

the city park, Fælledparken.<br />

www.copenhagenskatepark.dk<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 33


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Fashion &<br />

Shopping<br />

Chic, cool, and catwalks<br />

Clean lines and breezy wearability make Danish<br />

fashion unique, and <strong>Copenhagen</strong> is where you’ll<br />

find it<br />

34 cph-tourist.dk<br />

land of brands<br />

Bruuns Bazaar, Designers Remix, Munthe plus Simonsen, By Malene<br />

Birger …the list of internationally known Danish design labels just<br />

keeps on growing. <strong>Copenhagen</strong> fashion design cred began its ascent<br />

in the 1990s and has since attracted attention the world over for its<br />

innovation and passion for aesthetics, an approach expressed in the<br />

femininity and functionality of so many brands. The on-trend epicenter<br />

of Danish fashion, <strong>Copenhagen</strong> is the place to source inimitable<br />

Danish <strong>style</strong> across the city at gleaming flagship boutiques.<br />

fashion capiTal<br />

Today, Danish fashion boasts over 500 brands and twice a year, <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Fashion Week transforms the city into a feverishly fashionable<br />

hotspot, with an additional 60,000 visitors taking in the collections.<br />

and on the fashion runways, the Scandinavian design heritage always<br />

comes across loud and clear – this is fashion for the people.<br />

www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com<br />

where To go shopping<br />

The city’s downtown shopping mecca is a charming patchwork of<br />

streets on and around Strøget, the kilometre-long pedestrianised<br />

stretch lined with high street hip, international flagships, and classic<br />

department stores. and exciting one-of-a-kind shopping experiences<br />

await you on Strædet, which runs parallel to Strøget with a vibrant<br />

mix of individual retailers and cosy cafés. and the buzzing area in<br />

and around Pilestræde are a hive of new and distinctly cool<br />

premium fashion and interior design boutiques. Discover nearby<br />

Grønnegade, Store Regnegade, Christian IX’s Gade and Ny<br />

Østergade – all jam-packed with must-have apparel, accessories<br />

and home items. Quaint Kronprinsensgade<br />

ticks all the boxes in terms of on-trend shops<br />

and cafés, but for a more bohemian vibe,<br />

visit Larsbjørnsstræde/Teglgårdstræde to<br />

source one-off fashion and funky accessories.<br />

Diversity, dazzle and Danish design –<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> has something for every<br />

<strong>style</strong> hunter.


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tel +45 39 46 46 39<br />

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A unique collection of vintage textiles, jewelry,<br />

apparel, accessories and mundos<br />

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Handcrafted mundos<br />

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dk 1102 <strong>Copenhagen</strong> Pistolstraede K 6 • dk 1102 tel <strong>Copenhagen</strong> +45 39 46 46 K39<br />

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Denmark www.mundos.dk<br />

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<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 35<br />

m<br />

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w


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

The isle of slotsholmen<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s museum island and<br />

s<strong>eat</strong> of government<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>´s monumental museum island is home to a number<br />

of the city´s most prized attractions, and offers experiences for<br />

every taste: From Thorvaldsen´s neoclassical sculptures and a<br />

royal court th<strong>eat</strong>re to Jewish history, from ruins and artillery to<br />

splendid royal halls, dazzling white horses and much more ...<br />

originally the location of the medieval<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> Castle, demolished in 1731, the<br />

island of Slotsholmen, which means “The<br />

Castle Isle”, has over the last 800 years been<br />

the site of five different castles and palaces,<br />

each reflecting different <strong>style</strong>s and epochs.<br />

and even today you can see the vestiges of<br />

all these palaces, from Rococo to neo classical,<br />

and indeed the ruins of the two castles that<br />

preceded them, including absalon’s Castle,<br />

in the underground museum. Slotsholmen is<br />

36 cph-tourist.dk<br />

home to a wealth of museums and attractions,<br />

small and gr<strong>eat</strong>, making it a veritable museum<br />

island. on page 40 you find a map of all these<br />

unique attractions.<br />

Towering above Slotsholmen is Christians -<br />

borg, home to the Danish parliament<br />

(Folketinget), the Royal Reception Rooms,<br />

the Danish Supreme Court, and the prime<br />

Minister’s office. Constructed in 1907-28 to<br />

reflect a neo-Baroque <strong>style</strong>, today’s Christiansborg<br />

palace was designed by architect<br />

Thorvald Jørgensen. The newly renovated<br />

castle tower reaches a height of 106 meters<br />

and is the tallest spire in Copen hagen.<br />

The RoyAl ReCepTion Rooms<br />

– De kongelige<br />

RepRÆsenTATionslokAleR<br />

The Royal Reception Rooms are situated<br />

in the northern wing of the palace. The<br />

majestic halls are used by the Queen for<br />

official functions such as state dinners,<br />

royal banquets and public audiences. The<br />

magnificent rooms are adorned with artworks<br />

CHRISTIANSBORG<br />

PALACE<br />

Open 10-17 (Oct-Apr closed Monday)<br />

www.christiansborgpalace.dk<br />

Map page 22 13


y some of Denmark’s most celebrated<br />

artists. In the gr<strong>eat</strong> hall you’ll find the<br />

Queen’s tapestries from 2000, which may<br />

well be Denmark’s most monumental<br />

twentieth-century artwork. The 17 tapestries<br />

were designed by Danish artist Bjørn<br />

nørgaard and woven in paris. his sketches for<br />

these tapestries are on display at the KØS<br />

Museum for art in public Spaces in Køge, just<br />

south of <strong>Copenhagen</strong> (see page 102).<br />

The Royal Reception Rooms are open to the<br />

public when not used for official purposes.<br />

The Ruins of AbsAlon’s CAsTle<br />

– RuineRne Af AbsAlons boRg<br />

archbishop absalon, the official founder<br />

of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>, built the city’s first castle,<br />

which was completed in 1167. The castle<br />

ruins can be visited in the basement of<br />

Christiansborg palace, where you’ll also<br />

find a historical exhibition of all the five<br />

edifices that have occupied the site on<br />

Slotsholmen.<br />

The DAnish pARliAmenT<br />

– folkeTingeT<br />

Christiansborg palace is the s<strong>eat</strong> of the Danish<br />

parliament where 179 elected members<br />

from across the kingdom meet to debate<br />

and adopt the laws by which Denmark is<br />

governed. The Danish parliament occupies<br />

most of the palace, comprising more than<br />

44,000 sq. metres and 750 rooms. In recent<br />

years, the Danish parliament has expanded<br />

to include most of King Christian IV’s old<br />

storage rooms.<br />

To help members conduct their day-today<br />

legislative work, all political groups have<br />

their own secretariats. In addition, many<br />

journalists have offices at Christiansborg,<br />

too. During busy periods, more than 1,000<br />

people work at the Danish parliament.<br />

From 2 July-3 august when the parliament<br />

is in recess, daily guided tours are offered<br />

in english at 13:00. From 6/8 - 14/9 daily<br />

guided tours in english at 13:00. The rest of<br />

the year guided tours in english are offered<br />

every Sunday at 13:00. www.ft.dk<br />

Folketinget (the Danish parliament) is the nation’s<br />

legislative s<strong>eat</strong>, where 179 elected members debate<br />

and adopt the laws that govern Denmark.<br />

ChRisTiAnsboRg pAlACe ChApel<br />

– ChRisTiAnsboRg sloTskiRke<br />

Christiansborg palace Chapel, located to<br />

the west of the palace, is the private church<br />

of the royal family, used for baptisms,<br />

weddings and other religious ceremonies.<br />

here deceased Danish monarchs lie in state<br />

before they are taken to their final resting<br />

place at Roskilde Cathedral. The chapel<br />

was designed in neoclassical <strong>style</strong> by<br />

architect C. F. hansen (1756-1845) as part of<br />

his commission for the second Christians -<br />

borg palace. although severe ly damaged<br />

by fire in 1992, the chapel has been restored<br />

to its original glory when first consecrated<br />

on 14 May 1826 in celebration of the<br />

millennium of the introduction of Christianity<br />

to Denmark.<br />

Christiansborg Palace Chapel – the church of the<br />

royal family.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 37


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

The Danish Jewish Museum, designed by Daniel<br />

Libeskind. Photo: Bitter+Bredt<br />

The DAnish Jewish museum<br />

– DAnsk JøDisk museum<br />

Recounting 400 years of Jewish history in<br />

Denmark, the Danish Jewish Museum is<br />

located in a boathouse basement of the<br />

Royal Library, constructed in the early<br />

seventeenth century by Christian IV. The<br />

interior of the museum was designed by the<br />

world famous architect Daniel Libeskind.<br />

The interior reflects the unique story of the<br />

Danish Jews during World War II, most of<br />

whom were saved by their Danish com -<br />

patriots from nazi persecution. This<br />

extraordinary f<strong>eat</strong> is also symbolised in the<br />

museum’s emblem, ‘Mitzvah’ – the hebrew<br />

word for ‘obligation’ or ‘good deed’.<br />

38 cph-tourist.dk<br />

The RoyAl DAnish ARsenAl museum – TøJhusmuseeT<br />

Come and visit the historic and impressive arsenal of King Christian IV, completed in 1604, housing<br />

an extensive collection of weapons and artillery dating from the 16th century. here you can learn<br />

about the history of artillery, from the most primitive cannon and guns used in the 1500s to the<br />

forerunner of the cruise missile, the german V-1 flying bomb from 1944. Please note: parts of the<br />

collections are currently not on view due to renovation work to be completed by the end of 2012.<br />

Special exhibition: The Distant War. Sample everyday life in a Danish military camp in<br />

afghanistan in this unique exhibition that, for the first time, invites you to step inside a desert camp<br />

and experience the atmosphere of a Danish battle group.<br />

RoyAl sTAbles AnD CoAChes – kongelige sTAlDe og kAReTeR<br />

a uniquely authentic atmosphere envelops the Royal Stables, which f<strong>eat</strong>ure distinguished<br />

interiors dating from 1740. Tuscan marble columns support the vaulted ceiling. and even the<br />

stalls and stable walls are clad with marble. here the horses of the royal household are stabled<br />

and here you find heritage state coaches, uniforms, saddles, harnesses and other riding equip -<br />

ment. as one of the world’s oldest monarchies, Denmark has a rich tradition for horse breeding,<br />

a practice that reached its zenith in the seventeenth century at the Frederiksborg Stud in<br />

northern Zealand. This cultural heritage has been preserved in the working museum of the Royal<br />

Stables, a unique institution with riding school, riding ground and stables preserved in its entirety.


ThoRvAlDsens museum<br />

Small wonder that the Thorvaldsens Museum<br />

is such a favourite. not only is the museum<br />

a paean to the sculptor’s own works; its<br />

second floor is also home to several small<br />

rooms f<strong>eat</strong>uring Thorvaldsen’s private<br />

collections of paintings – one of the best,<br />

most intimate collections to be found<br />

anywhere in Denmark. Bertel Thorvaldsen<br />

(1770-1844) spent more than 40 years of<br />

his life in Rome, but in 1838 he bequ<strong>eat</strong>hed<br />

his comprehensive art collection to the city<br />

of his birth, <strong>Copenhagen</strong>.<br />

The colourful building was erected as a<br />

purpose-built museum by architect M.g.<br />

Bindesbøll. The frieze surrounding the<br />

museum depicts the return of the famous<br />

sculptor from Italy and the moving of his<br />

sculptures into the museum. Read more<br />

about the museum on page 103.<br />

The blACk DiAmonD, The RoyAl<br />

libRARy – Den soRTe DiAmAnT,<br />

DeT kongelige biblioTek<br />

In 1999, the Black Diamond was inaugurated<br />

– an daring new waterfront edifice. glass,<br />

concrete, black granite and steel is annexed<br />

to the original 1906 redbrick library facing<br />

the Søren Kierkegaard garden, a secret<br />

and peaceful oasis. Changing exhibitions<br />

offer visitors insight into the collections of<br />

the Danish national library. also f<strong>eat</strong>ured<br />

is a venue for chamber and rhythmic<br />

music, the Queen’s hall, which also hosts<br />

lectures and conferences. There is a wellstocked<br />

bookshop, a café and an attractive<br />

restaurant that offers a harbour view and<br />

f<strong>eat</strong>ures a waterside terrace. guided tours by<br />

prior arrangement. For further information<br />

on the Black Diamond, see page 104.<br />

The Th<strong>eat</strong>re Museum in the Court Th<strong>eat</strong>re is used for<br />

exhibitions and a wide range of cultural and artistic<br />

activities.<br />

The TheATRe museum in The<br />

CouRT TheATRe<br />

– TeATeRmuseeT i hofTeATReT<br />

The Th<strong>eat</strong>re Museum is situated in the<br />

Court Th<strong>eat</strong>re in a remaining wing of the<br />

first Christiansborg palace. The Court<br />

Th<strong>eat</strong>re was designed in 1766/67 for King<br />

Christian VII and was initially intended to<br />

house a troupe of French actors. In the 1770s<br />

the Court Th<strong>eat</strong>re was a politically outspoken<br />

institution where opinions were formed.<br />

Today, the Th<strong>eat</strong>re Museum at the Court<br />

Th<strong>eat</strong>re is a living museum that hosts a wide<br />

range of cultural and art related activities<br />

and f<strong>eat</strong>ures exhibitions of costumes,<br />

th<strong>eat</strong>re drawings, paintings, engravings,<br />

photographs, set design sketches and<br />

models as well as digital installations relating<br />

the history of Danish th<strong>eat</strong>re from the<br />

eighteenth century until the present day.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 39


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

The isle of sloTsholmen<br />

– finD youR wAy<br />

1. Christiansborg Palace (Slot)<br />

2. The Royal Reception Rooms<br />

(De Kongelige Repræsentationslokaler)<br />

3. The Ruins of Absalon’s Castle<br />

(Ruinerne af absalons Borg)<br />

4. The Danish Parliament (Folketinget)<br />

40 cph-tourist.dk<br />

5. The Royal Stables and Coaches<br />

(Kongelige Stalde og Kareter)<br />

6. The Th<strong>eat</strong>re Museum in the Court Th<strong>eat</strong>re<br />

(T<strong>eat</strong>ermuseet i hoft<strong>eat</strong>ret)<br />

7. Christiansborg Palace Chapel<br />

(Christiansborg Slotskirke)<br />

8. Thorvaldsens Museum<br />

9. The Black Diamond – The Royal Library<br />

(Den Sorte Diamant – Det Kgl. Bibliotek)<br />

11<br />

10. The Royal Danish Arsenal Museum<br />

(Tøjhusmuseet)<br />

11. The Danish Jewish Museum<br />

(Dansk Jødisk Museum)<br />

www.oplevslotsholmen.dk<br />

Opening hours: See page 114 & 115.


Nyhavn<br />

Old sailing ships, storytelling and seafood<br />

The ‘Sunny side’ is an often-used term about the sun-kissed stretch<br />

of Europe’s most romantic heritage harbour. Once home to shady<br />

sailor’s joints, today’s Nyhavn is a picturepostcard dining spot, not<br />

least on lazy summer days<br />

vinTAge sChooneRs<br />

nyhavn has been a designated heritage<br />

harbour since 1977, allowing old schooners<br />

and vintage sailing vessels to echo the canal’s<br />

historic nautical past. The name, nyhavn,<br />

literally means ‘new harbour’, although the<br />

canal, dug by Swedish prisoners of war<br />

between 1671-73, is one of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s<br />

oldest. The old vintage ships still carry on the<br />

canal’s maritime traditions, such as the arrival<br />

each September of sailing ships carrying<br />

apples and pears from the small islet of Fejø<br />

in the archipelago south of Zealand. proceeds<br />

from the sales go to support children’s<br />

activities back home on the island. and<br />

among the quaint seafood restaurants a few<br />

old tattoo parlours and taverns hold out,<br />

adding a sense of seafaring authenticity.<br />

fAiRyTAles, sAiloRs AnD ARTisTs<br />

‘The princess and the pea’ and ‘The Tinderbox’<br />

were some of the fairytales penned by<br />

storyteller hans Christian andersen (see<br />

page 76) while dwelling at nyhavn no 20.<br />

he also lived for 17 years at no 18 until his<br />

landlord, a sea captain, sent him packing at<br />

short notice. and if you feel a yearning for the<br />

sea yourself then board one of the canal<br />

boats for a tour of the town’s waterways or<br />

check the daytrip offerings by island-bound<br />

vessels at the end of the canal where you<br />

can also enjoy waterside lunches and refreshments<br />

at the pier-like new Royal Danish<br />

playhouse. From here you can take regular<br />

waterbuses to the city’s docklands.<br />

Landlubbers can head for the ‘shady side’ of<br />

nyhavn where the Boat Th<strong>eat</strong>re (Bådt<strong>eat</strong>ret)<br />

serves drinks on deck. and here you also<br />

find Charlottenborg palace, constructed in<br />

the 1670s as the first building on the Kongens<br />

nytorv square, which is home to Kunsthal<br />

Charlottenborg, a large contemporary art<br />

centre. The palace’s heritage hall also f<strong>eat</strong>ures<br />

chamber concerts during summer, for those<br />

languid afternoons.<br />

www.kunsthalcharlottenborg.dk<br />

evenTs in nyhAvn, 2012<br />

eDiToR’s ChoiCe<br />

23 June:<br />

Midsummer’s Eve Bonfire and jazz<br />

6-15 July:<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> Jazz Festival<br />

– with concerts at the anchor<br />

1-9 Sept:<br />

Old vintage ships arrive with fresh<br />

fruit from Fejø<br />

14-15 Sept:<br />

Beer & Jazz – with beer tasting and<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> Harbour Jazz<br />

17 Nov:<br />

Sampling of the 2011 Christmasbeer<br />

from 13:00-15:00<br />

16 Nov-22 Dec:<br />

Christmas market at Nyhavn<br />

For more events please visit<br />

www.nyhavn.eu<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 41


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Royal <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

& The Queen’s 40th Royal Jubilee<br />

42 cph-tourist.dk<br />

A royal city with a royal family that has much to celebrate<br />

2012 is a year of royal celebration. not only are<br />

the Danes celebrating the 40th 40th Royal Jubilee of<br />

their sovereign, Queen Margrethe II, the nation<br />

has also recently recently welcomed a newborn newborn member<br />

of of the Royal Family, the Queen’s Queen’s eighth eighth grand grand -<br />

child. child.<br />

a kingdom for more than 1000 years, Denmark not<br />

only has one of the world’s oldest oldest monarchies,<br />

but but also one of the most popular. and all<br />

across across <strong>Copenhagen</strong> there are monuments to the<br />

nation’s nation’s royal heritage. amalienborg palace – a<br />

regal Rococo Rococo palace with four mansions – is the<br />

official city residence of the Queen and and the<br />

Amalienborg Palace - the mansion of King Christian VII.<br />

prince Consort, henrik, who is originally from France. and it’s also the<br />

official home of their eldest son, Crown prince Frederik, his wife,<br />

Crown princess Mary – originally from Tasmania – and their four young<br />

children, prince Christian, princess Isabella, prince Vincent and princess<br />

Josephine.<br />

Visitors can always see when the royal families are in residence –<br />

when the royal ensign flies from their private mansion. The changing<br />

of the royal guards takes place at 12 o’clock noon – and when the<br />

Queen is home they also strike up the band. The 300-year-old palace<br />

has a museum where you can study the original chambers of the<br />

Queen’s ancestors (see page 31).<br />

at harbour’s edge are two small white pavilions from which the Royal<br />

Family sets sail every summer in the Royal Yacht to visit towns and<br />

islands across the kingdom.


Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary with their four children.<br />

Queen Margrethe II and the Prince Consort, Henrik<br />

at the queen’s 40th Royal Jubilee in January 2012.<br />

RoyAl Jubilee<br />

eXhibiTions in 2012<br />

Pearls – Royal Splendour and Modern<br />

Design. Jewels adorned with the natural gem<br />

of the seas. Rosenborg Castle until 28 May.<br />

www.dkks.dk<br />

The Essence of Colour – The Art of Queen<br />

Margrethe II. paintings by the Queen. aRKen<br />

Museum of Modern art until 1 July.<br />

www.arken.dk<br />

Gala Dress – Court and Couture. The Queen’s<br />

ballroom gowns since the 1960s. amalienborg<br />

Museum until 26 august.<br />

www.dkks.dk<br />

puRveyoRs<br />

To heR mAJesTy<br />

Wandering through town you’re bound<br />

to come across the sign of the Royal<br />

Warrant. an image of the Crown and<br />

the words “Kgl. hofleverandør” signify that<br />

the store or company – usually a very<br />

distinguished establishment – has been<br />

appointed purveyor to her Majesty the<br />

Queen.<br />

In this issue of ’<strong>Copenhagen</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong>’ you<br />

find the following Royal Warrants:<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 43


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Frederiksstaden - The Royal District<br />

From regal vainglory to boatmen’s row houses<br />

One of northern Europe’s grandest rococo districts, Frederiksstaden is a place of palatial grace.<br />

But its principal arteries Bredgade and Store Kongensgade also offer a chance to browse vintage<br />

design boutiques and art galleries.<br />

a grand palatial district celebrating the 300th anniversary of the<br />

oldenborg royal dynasty – that was the vision of King Frederik V<br />

(1723-66). and since he was an absolute monarch, his word was law.<br />

The grand renaissance scheme, modelled by architect nicolai eigtved<br />

44 cph-tourist.dk<br />

Frederikskirken - also known as Marmorkirken (the Marble Church) seen from the harbour front.<br />

(1701-54) and named Frederiksstaden, came under way in the 1740s<br />

with the cr<strong>eat</strong>ion of two main thoroughfares, Bredgade and Store<br />

Kongensgade, leading from Kongens nytorv all the way to the garrisons<br />

of the northern citadel, Kastellet (see page 46).


CenTuRies in The mAking<br />

The centrepiece of Frederik V’s new district<br />

was to be a grand basilica rivalling those of<br />

europe’s gr<strong>eat</strong>est cities, and although the<br />

founding stone of Frederikskirken (also<br />

known as Marmorkirken, or the Marble<br />

Church) was laid with gr<strong>eat</strong> ceremony in 1749<br />

the church stood as a mere project-in-themaking<br />

– or a romantic ruin in the eyes of<br />

many artists – for more than a century while<br />

the grand project fell out of grace with the<br />

king’s successors.<br />

In 1874, the site was sold to a wealthy<br />

Danish industrialist and patron of the arts, C. F.<br />

Tietgen (1828-1901), under the condition that<br />

he concluded the project within ten years,<br />

although it took a further decade and countless<br />

design revisions by architect F. Meldal (1827-<br />

1908) before the church was finally consecrated.<br />

More than a century later the grand<br />

scheme was finally completed in 2010 when<br />

contemporary RIBa award-winning architect<br />

Tony Fretton added the final corner building.<br />

The Russian<br />

Alexander Nevsky<br />

Church in Bredgade.<br />

naturally, a district built on renaissance ideals<br />

needed a grand monumental square, and an<br />

octagonal plaza was cr<strong>eat</strong>ed on the transverse<br />

axis running from Frederikskirken to the<br />

harbour, complete with an equestrian statue of<br />

the district’s founder, Frederik V. here four<br />

noble families commissioned four almost<br />

identical manors, today considered among<br />

europe’s finest examples of Rococo architecture.<br />

They remained separate aristocratic<br />

homes until a winter’s night in 1794 when<br />

Christiansborg palace was razed by a gr<strong>eat</strong> fire<br />

and the Danish royal family fell in dire need of<br />

a new home.<br />

now known as Amalienborg Palace, the<br />

four palatial homes still remain the official<br />

residence of the Danish monarch (see page 42).<br />

gAlleRies AnD<br />

boATmen’s houses<br />

Vintage Danish design stores and contemporary<br />

art galleries flank today’s Bredgade,<br />

one of Frederikstaden’s two main arteries. here<br />

you also find one of the nation’s leading<br />

decorative art museum, the Designmuseum<br />

Danmark (see page 99). Be sure to notice<br />

some of the small surprises, such as the golden<br />

onion domes of the Russian alexander nevsky<br />

Church (1883) and Medical Museion (see page<br />

105). When you’ve reached the end of the<br />

street, when heading from Kongens nytorv,<br />

Nyboder is one of the first row house districts in the world.<br />

turn left to discover a unique neighbourhood,<br />

Nyboder. The boatmen’s row houses were<br />

commissioned in 1631 by one of Denmark’s<br />

most enterprising renaissance monarchs, King<br />

Christian IV (1577-1648), who with this new<br />

neighbourhood cr<strong>eat</strong>ed homes for the<br />

personnel of the rapidly growing Royal Danish<br />

navy and their families during that time. Many<br />

of the streets carry exotic names, such as<br />

Krokodillegade (Crocodile Street) and<br />

Tigergade (Tiger Street). and the quaint row<br />

houses are lime-washed with a warm hue<br />

known as ‘nyboder yellow’. a small museum,<br />

Nyboders Mindestuer, relates the area’s<br />

colourful history.<br />

on your way back to the city centre, head<br />

down Frederiksstaden’s other main artery,<br />

Store Kongensgade, with its blend of design<br />

boutiques and foodie temptations, including<br />

restaurant noma co-founder Claus Meyer’s<br />

much-lauded nordic bakery. Indeed you’ll<br />

find that Frederiksstaden has as much to offer<br />

your taste buds as its history offers food for<br />

thought.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 45


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

The Little Mermaid<br />

An enduring symbol of love<br />

A controversial mermaid, her ‘ugly sister’ and a starshaped<br />

seventeenth-century citadel draw visitors<br />

and locals to <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s harbour promenade<br />

For almost a century, the Little Mermaid statue, the embodiment of<br />

hans Christian andersen’s fairytale, has perched on her stone by<br />

Langelinje, the <strong>Copenhagen</strong> harbour promenade. here the Little<br />

Mermaid cuts a tragic figure, suffering for her dream prince. Small<br />

wonder that she has often been the victim of rebellion and<br />

controversy.<br />

46 cph-tourist.dk<br />

Radical feminists have painted her over. She’s been beheaded by<br />

maverick artists (twice!) and there’s even been an attempt to blow<br />

her up with explosives. But whatever emotions the Little Mermaid<br />

stirs, she is undeniably an enduring and universal symbol of love.<br />

She once again made headlines worldwide when she was flown to<br />

Shanghai to be the centrepiece of the Danish pavilion at the<br />

2010 eXpo. The Little Mermaid statue, from 1913, was cr<strong>eat</strong>ed by<br />

Danish sculptor edward eriksen (1876-1959), who used his wife eline<br />

as a model.<br />

The ‘ugly sisTeR’ AnD The gefion myTh<br />

every fairytale has an ‘ugly sister’, and five minutes walk toward the<br />

cruise ships brings you to a genetically tweaked mermaid with<br />

iconoclastic reference to edward eriksen’s Little Mermaid. artist Bjørn<br />

nørgaard’s tongue-in-cheek artwork is part of a sculpture group<br />

entitled The Genetically Modified Paradise, originally exhibited at<br />

the 2000 eXpo in hannover, germany. In the opposite direction,<br />

towards Esplanaden, you find a thundering fountain depicting a<br />

scene from norse mythology in which the goddess Gefion drives her<br />

plough through the waters of Lake Vänern to cr<strong>eat</strong>e the island of<br />

Zealand, having first turned her four sons into oxen, who perish from<br />

exhaustion following their daunting f<strong>eat</strong>.<br />

The CiTADel<br />

Close by is the entrance to Kastellet – one of the best-preserved<br />

seventeenth-century fortifications in northern europe. Shaped as a<br />

star pentagram, the citadel still houses military offices and has its<br />

own historic church. When first constructed, the citadel was the only<br />

part of the city’s defence where sea-directed cannons could also be<br />

turned towards the city itself – in case of rebellion from within.<br />

Today the leafy citadel is open to the public for romantic strolls and<br />

picnics, and f<strong>eat</strong>ures open-air entertainment during the warmer months.<br />

look ouT foR...<br />

Langelinje Pavilion designed by eva and niels Koppel in 1958.<br />

The famous ‘artichoke’ lamps by poul henningsen (ph) were<br />

purpose-designed for this pavilion.<br />

www.langelinie.dk<br />

The historic Citadel windmill situated on one of the bastions.


The Museum of<br />

Danish Resistance 1940-45<br />

Frihedsmuseet<br />

In 1942, sabotage was adopted as a form of resistance.<br />

The story of the Danish resistan ce movement and the struggle against<br />

Nazi German occupation from 1940-45<br />

The Museum of Danish Resistance 1940-45<br />

offers unique insight into a dark chapter of<br />

Danish history. It documents the struggle<br />

against nazi german occupation, including<br />

the printing of illegal newspapers, underground<br />

radio communication, the collection<br />

of secretly airdropped weapons, the sabotage<br />

of factories and railways and the aiding of<br />

Danish Jewish citizens to safety from nazi<br />

persecution.<br />

Through personal video accounts, authentic<br />

photos and other documents, visitors learn of<br />

the human cost of resistance, the constant<br />

thr<strong>eat</strong> of imprisonment, torture, concentration<br />

camps and execution.<br />

There are four main themes in the exhibition:<br />

• Adaptation to Avoid Nazification<br />

• Resistance and Sabotage<br />

• German Terror Tactics<br />

• The Liberation, 5 May, 1945<br />

Opening hours: See page 117.<br />

Occupation<br />

and resistance<br />

Churchillparken 7<br />

1263 <strong>Copenhagen</strong> K<br />

Free admission<br />

natmus.dk<br />

Map page 135 6<br />

sCAn AnD wATCh<br />

Scan the QR code and watch a video in<br />

which Curator esben Kjeldbæk tells the<br />

story behind the sw<strong>eat</strong>er with the bullet<br />

hole. on 24 april 1945, Tage nielsen and<br />

his group of freedom fighters waited for a<br />

British bomber bringing weapons and<br />

explosives to a reception spot.<br />

Unfor tu nately Tage’s<br />

Morse code signal was<br />

seen by a german<br />

night-fighter,<br />

not the<br />

British<br />

bomber.<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 47


<strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

Danish Design<br />

ordrup<br />

– a way of life<br />

No matter where you go in <strong>Copenhagen</strong> you’ll soon discover<br />

examples of the many classic Danish designs that shaped the<br />

twentieth century. They’re a part of everyday life in Denmark<br />

– in restaurants, hotels and homes<br />

one of Denmark’s gr<strong>eat</strong> modernists, Arne<br />

Jacobsen (1902-71) was a true renaissance<br />

man, who is perhaps best known internationally<br />

for his 1960s egg and Swan chairs.<br />

Jacobsen’s architecture and interiors were<br />

modelled into total designs – even down to<br />

the the cutlery. The Radisson Blu Royal Hotel<br />

across from Tivoli is one of his<br />

total designs and and room 606 is<br />

untouched by time. among<br />

the showrooms at Pakhus<br />

48, one of the city’s dockland<br />

design hives, you’ll<br />

find more examples of arne<br />

Jacobsen’s legendary designs.<br />

www.arne-jacobsen.com<br />

48 cph-tourist.dk<br />

Design CenTRes<br />

a city of design, <strong>Copenhagen</strong> also f<strong>eat</strong>ures<br />

several notable design centres. You can delve<br />

into the nation’s design heritage at the<br />

‘Denmark by Design’ exhibition at the Danish<br />

Design Center. For exhibitions on contemporary<br />

urban design visit the waterside<br />

Danish Architecture Center (see page 100).<br />

The Designmuseum Danmark (see page 99)<br />

lets you study classical collections of Danish<br />

and european decorative art. Thr<strong>oughout</strong><br />

2012 you can also experience a ‘hands-on’<br />

exhibition of mid-century furniture designs<br />

by Finn Juhl, celebrating the centennial of<br />

the legendary designer. and you can visit<br />

Finn Juhl’s private home com plete with his<br />

original furniture, which is today part of the<br />

ordrup gaard Museum (see page<br />

101). a major nordic design<br />

exhibition is also f<strong>eat</strong>ured<br />

at the<br />

Louisiana<br />

Museum of<br />

Modern Art<br />

29 June –<br />

21 octo ber 2012.<br />

Danish Design Centre<br />

www.ddc.dk<br />

Danish Architecture Centre<br />

www.dac.dk<br />

Designmuseum Danmark<br />

www.designmuseum.dk<br />

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art<br />

www.louisiana.dk<br />

ThRee seCReTs<br />

Galleri Feldt lets you furnish your home<br />

with vintage design classics by gr<strong>eat</strong><br />

Danish names such as poul Kjærholm and<br />

Finn Juhl. www.gallerifeldt.dk<br />

Skovshoved, arne Jacobsen’s heritagelisted<br />

gas/petrol station from 1938 on<br />

the coastal road.<br />

Rud Rasmussen, the showroom and<br />

wood crafting workshop of one of<br />

Denmark’s most legendary furniture<br />

makers. www.rudrasmussen.com<br />

Hovedvagtsgade 6<br />

1103 Cph. K +45 33 33 04<br />

www.contrast-is.dk<br />

mail: contrast@contrast-is.dk<br />

Map page 22 6<br />

C<br />

O NTRAST


Ørestad<br />

Shaping the new <strong>Copenhagen</strong><br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s new designer districts show that contemporary<br />

architecture is all about nurturing good community values<br />

Urban sprawl is probably the last thing<br />

that jumps to mind when you visit Ørestad,<br />

one of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s new urban districts.<br />

The M2 metro line surfaces by the<br />

university’s humanities faculty to become<br />

an elevated line, and after a short bend<br />

round one of the city’s new urban icons,<br />

the DR Concert Hall designed by French<br />

architect Jean nouvel, it shoots ahead along<br />

a two-kilometre concourse flanked by age-<br />

of-new designs. The university, also undergoing<br />

remodelling, f<strong>eat</strong>ures a new circular<br />

student house, Tietgenkollegiet, inspired by<br />

traditional Chinese community living. The<br />

award-winning structure is cr<strong>eat</strong>ed by<br />

Danish architect Lene Tranberg, co-designer<br />

of <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s new Royal Danish play -<br />

house.<br />

Tietgenkollegiet is cr<strong>eat</strong>ed by Danish architect Lene Tranberg.<br />

big is beTTeR<br />

Close by Ørestad’s new twin-towered Bella<br />

Sky Comwell Hotel, billed as Scandinavia’s<br />

largest design hotel and cr<strong>eat</strong>ed by Danish<br />

studio 3Xn, you find two more award-winning<br />

housing projects, VM houses and The<br />

Mountain, which have both involved the<br />

playful talents of Danish architect Bjarke<br />

Ingels, head of the BIg design practice in<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong>. noted for giving residents<br />

wide-open views and integrated community<br />

amenities, his latest project at the very far<br />

end of Ørestad, called the 8 House, is inspired<br />

by mountain ridge dwellings and allows you<br />

to walk along public paths past row penthouses.<br />

among Bjarke Ingels’ many international<br />

assignments is a housing project<br />

soon set to rise on 57th Street in new York<br />

ThRee seCReTs<br />

The 8 house café (Café 8TaLLeT) at the<br />

far corner of the project, serving Danish<br />

open-faced sandwiches and with weekend<br />

live music. www.cafe8tallet.dk<br />

Close to the 8 house you find the Vestamager<br />

nature reserve visitor’s centre,<br />

which also f<strong>eat</strong>ures a small café. granatvej<br />

3-15<br />

plug n’ play speed skating and parkour<br />

course close to BIg house.<br />

City. and closer to home he has recently<br />

co-designed <strong>Copenhagen</strong>’s new global<br />

park, Superkilen (see page 48) with Danish<br />

artist group Superflex. and the new Danish<br />

Maritime Museum in elsinore designed by<br />

Bjarke Ingels too is set to open in 2013.<br />

Podwalks to new urban developments<br />

www.cphx.dk<br />

Smart-phone architecture guide<br />

www.archguide.dk<br />

Guided bicycle tours of new architecture<br />

www.citysafari.dk<br />

Ørestad<br />

www.orestad.dk<br />

cph-tourist.dk<br />

<strong>Copenhagen</strong> 49

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